Surface design project

Chaithanya Ramkumar
Sponsored by : Anavila, Mumbai
Brand Philosphy
Everyday exotic
Anavila translates to pure in Sanskrit and as the name suggests
which are unique are what they offer. India has a rich tradition of craft and textile and this is the
inspiration behind their oh so gorgeous and luxurious textiles.
In 2012 a was born with Anavila.
Over the last few years Anavila has created a design vocabulary that is contemporary and on-the-go-chic.
is what makes them different. Lovely hand crafted linen saris
are the brands most popular product. The home line offers beautiful options like table linen, cushions, bedcovers, sheer panels and wall art.
Following fair trade practices and constantly working on improving the life of
our artisans is important to us.
pure sustainable luxurious
textiles
contemporary take on Traditional Indian Textiles
Understated elegance that is not overtly embellished
Sponsors Brief

To design and develop a NAUTICAL themed home linen collection as a sit along for the Nautical sari collection for S/S14.
Products :
Cushions
Table linen - Table runner, Placemat, Table cloth Napkin
Concept developed for Nautical home linen collection
NAUTICAL
sail on......
NAUTICAL
What is usually seen??
What difference can be brought in??
Stars
Stripes
Red, blue and white
Fresh and peppy
Classic American style
Ropes and knots
Map images
Anchor motifs
Polka dots - usually seen in apparels of Nautical theme
Deconstructed
Bold motifs
What works in the market??
Based on an extensive 2 week
study of the market done by
visiting stores and interacting with
customers; secondary research
from magazines and websites
Soothing colours of the sea and sand
Accents not too bold
Design lies in the small details
Include sea creatures for inspiration
Denims and cotton Fragility brought in by using fine linen - minimalism which is the brand philosophy
Marbling
Handcrafted - no two pieces are the same - the brand speciality
There is an epidemic!!! - Indigo fever
In every shade, tone and tints
Royal looking
Natural dyes
Warmth in the shade
Ikats
Now in mashups using
metallic yarns
Soothing monotones
Beiges
Naturals
Huge repeats
Products with
not even
one single repeat
Tribal
Never out of style
Very earthy looking colours
Natural and vegetable dyes
Seen full metallic look
Simple geometrics
Concept Generation -
Brainstorming
for look of the collection
Watercolour effect Hand painted stripes
Boats motifs
Finalised concept - Nautical collection with a deconstructed effect. The colours will be soothing like the sea experience rather than a bold look.
There will be experimenting with surface textures like marbling and handpainted stripes. The collection will be handcrafted to create warmth
to the look. The collection will be a bevy of blues with red and grey detailing.
NAUTICAL NAUTICAL NAUTICAL
Deconstructed
Minimal
Light
Natural
Theme Board
Travel routes
Corals
Fish
Boats
Nautical Patterns : Anchors, Chevrons, Polka, Stripes and Scales
Compass
Maps
Mesh
Inspiration - Elements
Rope textures
Inspiration Board
Clean air, sand, long walks and freedom
Photo credits : Shivam Misra
Anavila Nautical S/S 14 sari collection
Mood Board
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8
C 4
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1
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9
5
C
1
4
2
C
5
3
9
C
3
0
5
C
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Colour Board
Initial concepts for motifs
Inspired from fish forms
Inspired from fish forms
Hand sketches
Hand sketches
Concept - Jaamdani
weaving
Concept - Surface techniques - Cording Gathering
and stitch details
Concept - Surface techniques - Stitch Pin tucks on ombre
lines with knots fabric
Concept - Wavy stitch lines with Using two fabrics; one
detailing and tucks gathered and one plain
Concept - Knots and pile structures Cording and embossing
Concept - Jacquard weaving
Concept - School of fishes customised using
Kutchi weaving style
Concept -
Watercoloured
effect on printing
Concept - Block printing with filling
Concept - Madhubani style - exaggerated
features - block print; only lines
Digital illustration
using CorelDraw X4
Regular repeats
Irregular repeat
Shadow look
Transparency
Sparsely distributed Size variations
Inspired from ropes, meshes and sailor knots
Polka dot transformation
Hand sketches
Concept - Printing - Stitch lines with Batik printing
knots
Concept - Jacquard
weaving
Concept - Printing - Knotted ropes Rope texture Rope with
watercolour
Concept - Printing
and surface design
Digital illustration
using CorelDraw X4
and Adobe Photoshop
CS6
Digital illustration
using CorelDraw X4
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Diagonal and mirror
Clustered
Irregular polka dots
Polka ovals
Joined dots
Production craft cluster visit
Mecheda, West Bengal
Batik printing
Santhali folk from Dhumka, Jharkhand
Hand applique(Khatwa) and hand embroidery(Sujani)
Workshop in Mumbai - Photo credits - Midday News
Ajrakhpur, Gujrat
Ajrakh block printing, shibori
After every craft cluster visit there is always an update in their strengths and weaknesses. This information later leads to few changes in the
designs and look. When sketched or digitally produced the effect is different and after the product is handcrafted the product look changes
beautifully. Therefore these changes were observed, learnt and anticipated while production.
Fabrics Developed
Product layouts
Moody polka - 24 x 24
The polka fabric developed
was hand appliqued and
interest is drawn to one
single polka using black stitch
lines.
xx
x x x x
xx
Floaty polka - 20 x 20
Polka fabric was used for
applique work and was
detailed using hand
embroidery.
Red scales blue - 20 x 20
Superimposing white
handwoven linen over
Japanese scale printed
cotton and giving outlines
and filling using red and blue.
Batik printed canvas
cotton for a
rectangular cushion.
Coral me blue - 20 x 20
Sandwiching cords in wavy
lines between two layers of
handwoven natural linen and
giving random deconstructed
stitch details in greyish blue.
Polka bubble - 12 x 20
Colour grading polka placed
randomly and hand appliqued.
Polka fabric and handwoven
natural linen are used. On a few
dots linen is superimposed over
the polka fabric
Block printed using
3 blocks on 80s
Bengal cotton. After
myrobalan treatment
the base becomes
pale natural yellow.
Block printed using
2 blocks - one for
black colour and the
other for resist. Done
on various shades of
indigo. Done on
organic cotton of 60s
using natural dyes.
Hand batik printed on
20s canvas cotton.
Block printed using
single block for resist
and dyed in various
shades of indigo. Done
on 80s Bengal cotton.
Cushions
Table linen
Polka table cloth with white
and black facing - 60 x 90
Indigo placemat - handwoven
linen - 14 x 19
Fish napkin - 9 x 9
Striped runner - Handwoven linen - 16 x 90
Nautical cushion collection
Nautical table linen collection
Photo credits : Yoga Shree. J
Nautical sari collection for S/S14
Concepts for print saris done using
CorelDraw X4
Photo credits : Shivam Misra
Anavila Nautical S/S 14 sari collection
Profile
Name : Chaithanya Ramkumar
Course applied for : MA Fashion and Textile Design
This design collection was a part of the graduation project which is an amalgamation of all the theoretical and practical knowledge that I
gained during the four years of my undergraduate course. I have been able to use my understanding of weaving, printing and surface
techniques in this collection. Moreover I even had the opportunity to interact with experts and master craftsmen in these fields which has
helped me understand the difference in crafts and mass produced textiles. This experience will be greatly helpful for me during the course
as they form the basics for Fashion and Textile design. What I would like explore during this course is three dimensional surfaces and
textures which would be used as textiles for fashion.