Right, I've decided to write this for two reasons:

1) It's a very common question on here.

2) I've done it myself.

Why should you do it? Erm, actually if your happy with your 83ps 25, no reason at
all. The car is still perfectly driveable.
If you should decide to go ahead and do this, TELL YOUR INSURANCE
COMPANY. Your about to add 20bhp to your car and if you don't tell them and your
involved in an accident, your screwed, and so is the third party.
IT'S ALSO ILLEGAL.
So be a sport and tell them. Direct Line have had me down as 103bhp for the past 3
years I've owned the car, apparently, so me doing this made no change for me. You
never know your luck.

What you'll need.
A 83PS Rover 25. You'll know if it's one already, but if your unsure check the
plate in the passenger door sill. This will confirm.
A normal, alloy throttle body from a K series 16 Valve unit, with 103ps or
above. Doesn't matter if it's a 1.4, 1.6 or 1.8. 48 or 52mm in size. Mine was a
48mm from a 75 1.8 Turbo.
A throttle cable from a 25/ZR with 103 BHP or above. Mine came from a
ZR160. Cheers Coopsman1!
A slimline 8mm socket and ratchet handle with extension piece.
A pair of long nose pliers.
A flat head screwdriver.
Patience.
About an hour of your time.
A jubilee clip, circumference at least 55mm.
Torch
First disconnect the throttle cable from the body. It'll pop to the side and then
disconnect. Remove the cable assembly from the gold coloured bracket. It slides away
towards the bulkhead if you use a little gusto.

Next step is to slide the top hose off the throttle body. It doesn't take much effort.
Now, here's a top tip. It'll make life easier if you remove the airbox and TB
connection tube NOW. So do so. The metal circle round the throttle body is not
designed to come off with ease. However care must be taken not to damage the rubber
on the TB connection tube. Slide the flat head screw driver under the clip and gently
try and work it forward. Keep at it. Eventually it'll either slide off or snap. I'm a heavy
handed git.
Mine snapped.
Opps!



Get it off and you'll have this view:

A quick tug on the throttle arm will show how Rover did the trick. Look at the gap!



It's tighter then 'effer drivers bank balance!

We'll soon have that fixed! Take off the bottom hose next. It's held on with a small
retainer clip. Use the pliers to pinch it together and slide it towards you. Now, this
hose was a bitch to get off! Gentle persuasion and a little wiggle now and then will
get it off in good time.
Next disconnect the throttle sensor connector. Push the metal clip in and it'll slide
backwards.
Next undo the 4 screws, one on each corner, of the TB, using the slimline ratchet +
extension bar combo :)
That done, the TB should come clean away. Yay! Don't junk that evil thing just yet
though, you could make a few quid on ebay.
Lets compare the two:



On the left is the restricted. The 48mm from the 75 'bo lump on the right. See the
difference. The throttle arm is much smaller and round. Note I said round. Look
closely and you'll see there's two holes for the throttle cable to attach to. When you
put your cable on, use the hole closer to the centre of the arm. The cable loops round a
groove underneath. If you try and use the bottom hole, it still won't open fully. Loads
of people make this mistake.

Now fit the new one, doing the reverse of the above. Another tip, use the rubber seal
from your old body. It's pre greased and will make life MUCH easier. One your done,
you'll have this view!




Yay! Push that arm and watch as the butterfly valve opens fully. Rejoice at the
thought of all those horses. Wipe up some of your dribble. Time to fit the new cable.

Here's the old and new cable together. The new one is a 1/2 inch longer!





Ok, on with the show.
Next is to remove the cable. Get back in your car, remove the fuse cover under the
steering wheel then push the seat all the way back. Lie on your back head up, looking
up the footwell. Turn on your torch. You'll see this:



There's two tiny plastic clips the back of the peddle connection closest to the
bulkhead. Pinch them in, and then pull the cable towards you and back towards the
drivers door.
Next, locate the cable at the bulkhead. It's on a turn buckle. Twist it clockwise. It's a
tight squeeze. Use the pliers if your stuck :)
Do that, and it'll ping out. Pull the cable out.
Refit the new one in reverse, and then connect it to the TB. Remember:
When you put your cable on, use the hole closer to the centre of the arm. The
cable loops round a groove underneath.

Adjust the cable using the spinning square nut threaded on the cable you clip into the
gold retainer bracket. Make sure the butterfly valve is fully shut then adjust the cable
so there's NO play in it AT ALL. Get a friend to push the throttle pedal down to
ensure it opens fully. If all is well, your work is done. Refit the air box and secure it to
the TB using the Jubilee clip.


Now it's time for a drive. When you start the car, it'll idle like a epileptic in a strobe
light. This is normal. It'll settle down after 20 miles. MEMS has to learn about your
new config.
The car will now feel MUCH more lively and rev happy, like your old car on ecstasy.
The throttle response is sharper and acceleration is a little more then brisk to say the
least. The engine noise under induction is deeper and roarty and kinda raspy. A real
treat for a 1.4.

Enjoy!

If you find this guide useful, please show me some love and give me some rep.

Cheers,
25Exec.


This guide was posted on www.mg-rover.org. first. Please dont link directly to it, and
point people towards this site instead.
Thank you.