Here's how I put Big Betty together:

You will need:

1 x Silver Oversized purse frame with loops
2 x 1/2in (13mm) Bolt Snaps
1 x small mag snap (optional)
1 yrd (1m) purse making cord - see step 11
1/2 yard (1/2m) of fabric for the exterior
1/2 yard (1/2m) of fabric for the lining
1/2 yard (1/2m) of Vilene Woven fusible interfacing/stabilizer (use woven, it's stronger and
this bigger bag needs the strength).
1/2 yard (1/2m) of Vilene Thermolam Compressed Fleece (stabilser)
V. strong fabric glue
A walking foot is also dead handy if you are going to sew a frill
**All seam allowances are 3/8in (1cm) unless stated otherwise**
1. Make up your purse pattern - Download the FREE Betty purse pattern here. Print the pattern,
cut out the two pieces and stick 'em together (as instructed on the pattern).

2. Cut your fabric pieces - Cut out the fabrics, fusible interfacing and eece pieces as directed on
the pattern. Iron the woven interfacing pattern pieces to the wrong side of your exterior pattern
pieces. Transfer all markings with chalk or a disappearing marker. Also cut:
For the strap cut 1 strip exterior fabric 27in x 3 1/8in (68 1/2cm x 8cm)
If you are making a top frill cut 2 strips of lining fabric: 33in x2 3/8in (84cm x 6cm).
If you are making an inner pocket cut 2 pieces lining fabric: 8 1/2in x 6in (22cm x 15cm).
3. Make up frill (if using, if not proceed to step 5) - Iron both frill strips. Take one of the strips
and fold in half by bringing the long edges RST. Match edges and stitch both short edges of the
strip together with a 1/4in (1/2cm) seam allowance. Turn the frill RSO and iron. Now set your
machine to the longest stitch length and the loosest tension. Leaving long thread tails at both ends,
stitch along the raw top edge of the frill with a 3/8in (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat step with the
other frill strip. Return the machine stitch length and tension to their normal settings.
4. Gather the frill and t and baste it to your exterior fabric - Take the frill and pull on the
bottom thread (the bobbin thread) to gather up the frill. Gather up the frill until it is the right length
to t in between the 2 frill markings on the top edge of the exterior pattern pieces. If you have a
walking foot t it to your machine and stitch the frills to secure them in place - stitch just above the
gathering stitches. Remove the loose gathering stitches.
Now place the gathered frill onto the top edge of your exterior pieces (in between the 2 frill
markings). Match the raw top edge of the frill to the top edge of exterior pattern piece. Pin togther
at regular and frequent intervals just like I have (on another frilly project below). Using the
walking foot baste the frill to the exterior piece with a 1/4in (1/2cm) seam allowance. If you don't
have a walking foot, decrease the foot pressure, take your time, and replace the frills with your
ngers as you sew (cos the machine will have a tendency to push the frills forward). Repeat step
with the other frill strip.

Pin the frill to the TOP edge of the bag exterior piece and it will look something like the 'pin em up
action' in the pic above.
5. Sew exterior purse Create a sandwich with the exterior fabric pieces RST in the middle and
the eece pieces on the outside. Match all edges and pin everything together. Starting from one of
the hinge markings, sew the sides and bottom of the exterior nishing at the other hinge markings
as shown by the wonky arrow in the photo.

Yes I know the picture is wrong for this bag, (so ignore the blue measurements in the photo) the
principle is excata-mundo the same. Pin and stitch around the sides and bottom (in between the
hinge markings) just like in the pic above.
6. Create a at bottom for your purse - Take one of the corners of your exterior bag and match
the side seam with the bottom seam line. Flatten to form a triangle. Measure 2in (5cm) across the
tip of the triangle mark the line with pen/chalk and pin. Stitch along the marked line and trim the
excess fabric 3/8in (1cm) from the seam. Repeat for the other bottom corner of the exterior. Iron
the seam open and turn exterior bag right side out.

Flatten triangle and make your line 2in (5cm) across from the tip of triangle. Check the marked
line is at right angles to centre line of the triangle.

Trim off excess fabric, and there you go; one at bottom!
7. Sew inner pocket if using (if not using proceed to step 8) - Make a mark for the snap on one
of the pocket fabric pieces in the centre 1in (2 1/2cm) down from the top edge. Iron a 1in (3/8cm)
square of fusible interfacing behind the marking. Use a stitch ripper make two small slits (for the
prongs) into the marking you have just made. Take one of the non-magnetic snap half and push the
prongs through the right side the pocket piece. Slip a metal washer over the prongs at the back and
then press the prongs down away from each other. If you want to see mag snap pics check out step
5 of this tute.
Bring both pocket pieces RST, match all edges, pin and stitch all around sides and bottom, but leave
a 4in (10cm) gap in the bottom edge for turning out. Turn pocket RSO, push raw edges of the gap
into the pocket and iron.
On one of the bag lining fabric pieces make a marking in the centre 2 3/4in (7cm) down from the
top edge for the magnetic half of the snap. Insert the snap as before. Place the lining pocket onto
bag lining piece (so that magnetic snap halves click together). Check that the pocket is straight (and
not wonky) on the lining, pin and stitch all around the sides and bottom of the pocket - stitching the
gap in the pocket shut as you sew.
8. Stitch the bag lining - Sew the lining bag in the same way as steps 5 & 6 except there is no
eece to work with.
9. Bring the exterior bag and the lining bag together - Place the purse lining WSO into the
exterior purse (RSO). The wrong sides of the lining and the exterior should now be touching each
other. Carefully match all seams and raw edges of the lining purse to the exterior purse and pin at
the top edge.
Stitch the exterior and lining together neatly all around the top of the purse no more than 1/8 (3mm)
from the edge. Be especially neat at the side seams as these will show on the nished purse. If
necessary tidy up the top edge by trimming off any stray uneven fabric or interfacing.
10. Now for the glue - Apply glue to the channel of one of the sides of the frame. Work with one
side of the purse at time. Start at the hinge and work your way to the other hinge. Be quite
generous with the glue (but not enough to cause an oozing mess!) Apply glue to the side and top
edge of your purse, again be generous - if you are a bit clumsy you might want to mask the bit of
the purse that will not be inserted into the frame with some tape. It doesn't matter if glue oozes onto
the frame but it is a pain if it gets all over the fabric. Allow the glue to become touch dry (wait at
least 5 mins).

Be quite generous with the glue. This glue btw is the business, it's got more grip than a pot of
lobsters!
11. Insert your purse into the frame - Start by inserting the sides of your purse into the frame
(hinge end rst) then work your way up to the top corners. Use a pointy object to poke and stuff the
fabric evenly into the frame - small sewing scissors are perfect for this job. After you have inserted
the sides of the purse into the frame, start inserting the top edge of the purse into the frame. You'll
see that the top edge of the purse is a little wider than the top edge of the frame - this is intentional
because we want the top edge to be a little gathered. Continue to stuff the fabric into the top edge of
the frame and space the gathers out evenly. Turn the purse over to check that the lining side is also
inserted evenly into the frame. Leave to dry for 15min before tackling the other side of the frame
and purse in the same way.
Let everything dry for about 30 mins and then pick off any stray glue from the frame.

Sides go into the frame rst.

Poke the fabric right into the frame with tips of scissors - work your way around the frame evenly. If
you have sewn a frill take extra care to wodge and stuff the top frilled edge of the purse into the
frame. It might be slightly more awkward to have the frill to contend with, but the frill actually
makes for a stronger purse - so the frill is worth the (slightly) extra hassle :)
Flip your purse over and check that the lining side is even as well.
As this bag is big, I highly recommend using purse making cord to reinforce the bond between the
frame and the purse. Stuff the cord into the lining side of the frame using the pointy tool as before.
If you added a frill to the purse use this cord.
If you didn't add a frill use this cord.
12. Make the strap - take the strap fabric and make the strap in exactly the same way as step 3 in
this tute (except there is no eece to work with). Thread one of the strap ends thru the ring of the
bolt snap and stitch the end down (stitch forward and reverse a couple of time for strength). Repeat
with the other strap end and bolt snap. Clip the strap onto your bag and skip off to the shops with a
spring in your step. You're looking great, Honey!