Kashmir Great Lakes Trek Experience of a First Time Himalayan Hiker

It was a dream came true for me! I was always longing for a Himalayan Trek mainly for three
reasons: a) to find myself in front of the mighty Himalaya (purely spiritual in nature), b) to
regain/boost my confidence towards braving the odds of life and c) photography. Earlier to that,
I had done plenty of treks in the Western Ghats and Southern India. I had travelled north quite
extensively including Kashmir and Ladhak region but not as a trek. When my friends asked me
to join this July trek I nodded immediately as a first step in fulfilling this deep desire.
I abstain from writing more about the number stuff like altitudes etc. as they are available
everywhere. In the end, I am adding some tips and advice which I feel useful to my fellow
trekkers.
Day 1. Arrive at Srinagar, Drive to Sonamarg Base Camp
Six of us namely Harusha, Manjunath, Subbu, Praveen, Karthik and I arrived at Srinagar airport
by 1400hrs via different flights from Bangalore. Called up the TTH contacts, kith and kin. Kept
our conversations to the minimal to conserve the battery for the next 7 days. Reached Tourist
Reception Centre (TRC) which is a few kilometers away from airport by a separate taxi! From
there, TTH arranged taxis picked us up on a long drive to Sonamarg base camp by 1900hrs.
There was plenty of light. Without any further delay, we segregated and repacked our backpacks.
Thanks to TTH for taking care of our extra luggage that we received safely at Naranag. Team
leader Mr. Gaurav welcomed us. Other six fellow trekkers arrived much later whom we could
meet only next morning. Night sleep was not sound enough due to the excitement slated to
begin. Below is a view from our base camp.
Picture
Day 2. Sonamarg to Nichnai
First day of the trek, lazy start. Journey started only by 0830hrs after the trek briefing including
Dos & Donts. Ascent started just behind the base camp into the sloppy green meadows. Within
half an hour into the trek, trekkers one by one shut their mouths as breathing took over all
attention . Hands became busy with the camera and lens. Morning view of Sonamarg from
above was very interesting with foggy mountains and cloudy blue skies.
Picture
We took many short breaks under pine and maple trees before reaching Shekdur tea stall at
noon. This particular tree on the way has become a trademark of this trek. An ideal location for
showing ones photography skills.
Picture
Had stomach full at the tea stall. Khawah tea (tea made by boiling green tea leaves with saffron
strands, cinnamon bark, cardamom pods) he served was very tasty and relaxing. Dont miss it if
are on that trail.
The ascent is now over and the trail slopes down into the silver birch tree meadow. The shades
from the trees were effective in protecting us from scorching sun on the top. Plenty of brooks
crossing our path quenched our thirst with crystal clear mineral water. Here goes the Shekdur
camp site if one want to camp ahead of Nichnai.
Picture
Trail goes up and down and soon opens up to a river valley which is the beginning of Nichnai.
Picture 0208
We were thrilled to see our first snow patch on the very first day on the left bank of the river.
We cheerfully walked all-round the snow, went up the stream jumping on the boulders. Far away
we could see snow clad mountains of Nichnai Pass which we were to cross next day. The valley
finally opened up into a plateau ahead of the pass where our camps were waiting for us. Sound
from the flowing river was kinda lullaby for all of us throughout the night. In fact this was true
for all the camping nights! Many thought of recording the sound to playback at home!
Day 3. Nichnai to Vishnusar Lake via Nichnai Pass
Team got ready by 0730hrs. Without any further delay, our leading guide Mr. Rasheed led us to
the other side of the river. We didnt have to wet our legs with the chilly water from the river as a
big snow patch across the river acted as a bridge.
Picture 0272
The ascend began with the snow peaks as our first target. We marched across many snow
patches and barren landscapes to reach the source of the river i.e., Nichnai Pass. Had a few
breaks in between and ate some food along the climb. The valley deceived us quite a few times.
Few encouraging words from the guide kept us motivated. The call chalo chalo chalo from the
guide who used to be quite ahead of us frequently reminded us of the time available and the
target. Finally we were on top of the pass. This pass being second to Gadsar Pass by just a 100ft
(13500ft), it was remarkable to achieve on a 2
nd
day of the trek. This is the last point from where
one can make calls using Airtel/BSNL post-paid networks. The next point is none other than
Naranag!
Picture 0314
Both sides of the pass were awesome with the Vishnusar side being richer in snow.
Pictures 0295 & 0356
After 30 min rest and enough photography, started descending towards Vishnusar. There was
the biggest ever snow patch on the other side of the pass that we came across and thus didnt
hesitate to have extra time on the snow.
Picture 0359
Snow patches led us to a wide valley with a gradual slope but with no end in sight. Tiny yellow
flowers were scattered everywhere along with few purple ones. Walked. walked.. and
walked.. to reach a dead end a river flowing out of Vishnusar Lake. We didnt cross the river
but camped on the same side leaving the challenge of crossing it to the morning.
Picture 0405
Meanwhile eyes kept on looking for Vishnusar and Kishansar twin lakes which is nowhere to be
seen. The lake was upstream of the river hidden from the camp site. There was no plan to rest
here the next day. Therefore, had some food and immediately left to the lake to shoot some
evening snaps. Other part of the team became busy in fishing! The site is famous for trout fishes.
Fishing permission needs to be obtained from Srinagar!
Picture 0422
Within 10 min, we were at Vishnusar clicking everywhere . Little disappointed as I couldnt
make any images with peaks reflections in the lake as the breeze and slight drizzling disturbed
the stillness of the lake water .
Picture 0452 or 0460
As the weather was getting bad, we dropped the idea of exploring Kishansar lake and rushed
back to the camp.
Day 4. Vishnusar to Gadsar via Kishansar and Gadsar Pass
It is rightly said If you pass Gadsar pass you pass the trek. This is the highest peak in the trek
and a steep one with many deceptive peaks leading to the next one. Crossing over the lake was
not at all a problem with Rasheed bhai leading us and the water level being low in the river. Had
to negotiate few slippery boulders.
We were ready with our DSLRs to explore Kishansar. But the nature had some other plans for
us! As soon as we reached Kishansar, it started drizzling. With the dark clouds mounting the sky
from all over, we didnt have a choice. For the first time, our rain wears came in the open.
Quickly took a shot of Kishansar , folded our cameras and slipped into rain coat, rain pant,
waterproof hats and gloves.
Picture 0475
There on no second thought, only thought being crossing the Gadsar pass safely. Half an hour
into the climb, it started raining heavily accompanied by cold breeze. The path was narrow and
slippery; climb was steep with nothing to hold onto other than grass! Every step had to be taken
with great care. No chance for any wrong doing. The sticky mud mixed with rain water made the
situation worse by clinging to our shoes making its grip useless. With no gravels beneath the
shoes, it was a nightmare with zero grip. There came the other challenge making way for the
mules carrying our tents, food and other essentials. Somehow we were able to make way for
them (no other way huh). Be brave. Help do come in the form of ideas at least. Two effective
strategies we employed were a) avoiding the regular slippery path with the steeper creeks with
plenty of boulders and b) use of hands along with feet to literally crawl up the mountain. It was
still raining but with these techniques we could progress slowly but safely. This is where one
unknowingly realises the power of praying. We could see our friends struggling their way up but
in no way one can help them. What else a small creature called human do in front of natures
fury. Pray. Pray. Pray. And Pray.
Indeed the prayers were answered. Slushy path ended for few of us leading to path with tiny
gravels. The grip was much better in the circumstances which finally led us to the top! Gadsar
passed! As per my fellow trekker it was a death-defying journey to pass the Gadsar - worth it. It
was a moment of sheer joy at the top. But no sight of fellow trekkers at all. All were still
struggling and at the same time cold breeze made it impossible to stay at the top. Few of us were
not even having waterproof gloves losing sensations in the fingers. By then the visibility had
reduced to less than 10ft! Again a push from the nature itself. Saw a horseman walked across
onto the snow bare footed repeat bare footed controlling his horse. That boosted our
confidence. We decided to descend to avoid the breeze and wait for others. Snow was knee deep
here at many places. Descend was much faster than what we thought. After an hour or so, we
found some suitable place to relax. Our prayers still continued as no one followed us even after a
long wait.
Suddenly the weather got cleared only to find ourselves just beside the icy Gadsar Lake. Wah!
What a relaxation it was. I took off my gloves immediately and started clicking the beauty.
Picture 0477 & 0483 & 0490
Then only I realised something important! Food yeah, stomach was crying by then. I ate all that
accessible parata, chocolates, dry fruits and so on. There came the good news also through one
of the TTH staff that everyone is alright and heading towards us. That was the moment of
gratitude towards the Master. Eyes were full with water of gratitude. By then my two main
purposes of this trek was totally fulfilled.
Slowly we started further. The camp site was elusive all along.
Picture 0490 & 0500
Prolonged walk brought us to the first Army Camp where we greeted our brave soldiers with Jai
Hind and handshakes. It seemed, they were aware of our pathetic condition. They welcomed us
with compassion and served warm water as well. They verified our IDs and let us cross the
stream to our camps.
Picture 0510
The last batch reached as late as 1930hrs but everyone safe. We happily accommodated few
fellow trekkers in our tents as one of their horses carrying their tents could not pass Gadsar and
had to return to Vishnusar.
Day 5. Gadsar to Satsar via Satsar Pass
With the weather continued to play hide and seek with us, we were anxious about how are we
going to deal with the days trek. There are two routes: one is narrow but short, other one is
longer and steeper. After little wait, once the drizzling stopped, we decided to move up via the
shorter route. Again a snow patch acted as a bridge for us to crossover the river. Soon after
crossing over, we were on the sloppy green meadow with the narrow path leading straight ahead
into the foggy meadow. Alas! Drizzling started again. With no alternatives, got into raingears and
marched ahead. The path was not so different from that of Gadsar but with lesser gradient. Our
speed reduced to a great extent due to slippery nature of the trail. Deep gorge on the right side
made our situation almost like yesterdays.
Picture
Quite often we had to change regular course to avoid dangerous spots which otherwise would be
straight forward to pass. This time rain itself helped us in the form of considerable downpour.
Water started flowing in the narrow path making the path less sticky by washing off the loose
soil to a great extent. Slippages reduced to a great extent and soon we were at the steepest zig-zag
ascent leading to the pass. To our surprise, the soil up the gradient contained lots of small gravels
which made our life easy. Every one of us had a sigh of relief and increased our speed of
marching. Finally when we reached the top of the pass, it was still raining but to a lesser extent.
The other side of the pass was a wide meadow with excellent sceneries. A river was flowing on
the right side. Finally Sun God did show mercy upon us and started shining brightly after a gap
of almost one and a half days. Skies got cleared. I could make some quick snaps.
Picture
On the way, we saw a well on the right where we could see water inflow very clearly but no
outflow was seen! Sure there exists an underground channel for the water to flow out. Whatever,
it was an interesting phenomenon to watch. Rested there for a while, ate our packed food and
moved ahead to the second army check post on the other side of the stream. Again we were able
to keep our feet warm as the water level was low.
Army greeted us with warm water and we shared a few stuff like dry fruits with them. I
personally met every one of them and thanked and appreciated them for their extraordinary
efforts in safeguarding us. We had a small photo session too. Just beside the army camp was the
first of the Satsar lakes. Water level was quite low. Marched straight across the lake on the
boulders. Continued on the boulders and meadows via series of lakes to the left to reach our
next camp site Satsar. Presence of plenty of small yellow flowers added a distinct feel to the
camp site. Off course, soothing melody of flowing water continued here as well.
Picture
Again, the main and most beautiful Satsar Lake was at an altitude to the left of camp site. Only
four of us decided to pursue the adventure as others were exhausted fully. It was worth the
effort of negotiating 2-3 deceptive hillocks to finally reach the top most lake.
Picture
Day 6. Satsar to Gangabal Twin Lakes
First, I should appreciate the team and their spirit as it was the 5
th
day of the trek without any
rest day. Even then trekkers were enthusiastic and got ready on time. Again we opted shortcut
avoiding the regular horse route after crossing the river in front of us. Sad, here too we did not
get an opportunity wet our feet in chilly water .
So far, we had come across only glimpses of boulder walk. Here was the real boulder hopping
with the presence of huge boulders of various shapes spanned across three ridges.
Picture
The stretch provided a nice warmup to our hands and knees. Advantage was we could avoid
some steep climb of the horse route. Later part of the ascent was gradual with long stretches of
barren/wet lands and snow patches. We were deceived many times by the peaks appeared to be
the last one. View on the opposite side was very good with snow clad mountains on one side and
the pine trees on the other, a stream flowing in between.
Picture
The journey seemed endless with the energy decreasing each moment. But the encouragement
from the guides kept us motivated on the track. Suddenly someone announced thats the peak.
I saw in that direction to find a thick lengthy band of snow covering the top of a peak. It was
also the last snow patch in our trek.
It was heaven once you reach the top because of the breath taking view