V2 Preview - Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis - of Faces and Fingers

31/7/2014 Preview "Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis: Cleanser, Lotion, Serums, Mask" - of Faces
and Fingers
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Origins is famous for its plant-based skincare products, and indeed the
brand was one of the first mainstream brands to heavily market itself as a
natural skincare brand. Chances are, you've probably heard of any of their
skincare ranges, with really cute names like Plantidote, A Perfect World, or
GinZing. Despite being around since 1990, the brand is fairly new to me.
I've never tried anything from the brand, so it was some interest that I
started testing out their Mega-Mushroom skincare range.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief: Mushrooms and lots of other
plants to the rescue!
The Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range is a plant-based range and advertises
itself as such, so I thought a quick summary of the science on 1)the oils in
skincare in general, 2) the oils in the product range, and 3) other plant-
based extracts (not oils) that you can find in the products may help to set
the stage.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review
and Ingredients Analysis: Cleanser, Lotion,
Serums, Mask
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31/7/2014 Preview "Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Review and Ingredients Analysis: Cleanser, Lotion, Serums, Mask" - of Faces and Fingers
The Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range has a grand total
of seven products to suit all preferences.
First things first: Are Oils in Skincare Clogging to My
Skin? What Do They Do I n Skincare, Anyway?
I know that some people might be worried about applying oils to your skin,
as it can be potentially clogging. This is not totally unfounded. As I wrote in
a previous skincare review, generally, oils with oleic acid (coconut and argan
oil are two examples of oils that are high in oleic acid) tend to be more
clogging than oils that are lower in oleic acid. This in turn means that how
clogging your plant-oil-containing skincare is, depends very much on the
type of oils included. Fortunately, most of the common oils found in
skincare, such as jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, and grape seed oil, aren't that
high in oleic acid, so it's not likely that they will clog your skin. (Of course, if
you experience otherwise, stop immediately.)
Chemical structure of the three most common fatty acids in
commonly-used skincare oils(Image source)
So, now that not all plant oils are a cause for alarm, what are these oils
doing in skincare, anyway? Most oils have an emollient effect, as they
smooth the surface of the skin. They also form some sort of barrier function,
preventing water loss from the skin (TEWL, or transepidermal water loss). A
high rate of TEWL is often associated with dry skin (obviously, because the
more water your skin loses, the drier it becomes), so lots of skincare
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products are dedicated to reducing TEWL. Additionally, there is some
evidence that acne-prone skin is usually deficient in linoleic acid, so one
theory is that if your plant oils are rich in linoleic acid, then it could help to
alleviate acne by replenishing the deficient linoleic acid. In theory, you
could probably pick an oil (or a mix of oils) that have fairly high linoleic acid
content and lower oleic acid content, and those oils shouldn't make acne
worse. Some oils that have this property include Hemp Seed Oil, Evening
Primrose Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Pomegranate Seed Oil, and Borage Seed Oil.
Some oils also have other benefits, primarily an anti-oxidant effect. For
example, jojoba seed oil can have anti-oxidant effects, and grape seed oil is
often touted as an anti-oxidant, which is why these oils are so popular. For
people who really love their facial oils, some may like to use only one in the
belief that it is best for their skin type, but others like to mix a couple of oils
to try to get a bunch of benefits from the oils combined (e.g. high linoleic
acid, with some anti-oxidant properties, while feeling relatively lightweight,
etc.).
So as you might guess from this summary, oils, even while lots of people
love them, are quite a personal thing - it really depends on your skin's own
fatty acid content, as well as what the user wants out of the product, and
the skinfeel of the product (because some oils can feel quite heavy on the
skin too).
What About the Oils in the Origins Mega-Mushroom
Skin Relief Skincare Range?
The most common oils in the Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief skincare
range are Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil and Carthamus Tinctorius
(Safflower) Seed Oil, by far. These appear near the top in almost all the
ingredients list for every product in the range, with the main exceptions
being the Eye Serum, the Face Cream, and the Face Lotion. So I thought it
might be good to take a little bit more of a look at whether there were any
benefits conferred by both oils, since, after all, they are a fairly major
component in the product range.
A comparison of the fatty acid content of some common oils in
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our diet. Safflower and Olive are both included as well. (Image
source)
For olive oil, in addition to the usual emollient benefits that plant oils
confer, there is some evidence that The high level of squalane from olive oil
in some products protects the skin's sensitive lipids, and that high
concentration of plant peptides protects the peptide bonds of the skin
proteins. There's also some evidence that olive oil protects against some
UVB damage, possibly through its antioxidant effects. So while I wouldn't
recommend using olive oil as sunscreen wholesale, it's good to know that
there is some proof of its anti-oxidant effects. Additionally, olive oil does
have some anti-inflammatory compounds, so although stronger proof exists
of olive oil's anti-inflammatory properties when consumed (i.e. eaten), it's
possible that when applied topically, there will be some anti-inflammatory
benefits as well. The anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects that olive oil
has comes from the phenolics in the oil, namely oleuropein and
hydroxytyrosol.
Safflower Seed Oil, on the other hand, had less data available. It does have
emollient properties, and it also seems to be fairly high in linolenic acid,
although whether this translates into benefits on the skin is a little
debatable - you could reasonably expect it to work on skin (after all,
replenishing your skin's sebum doesn't require very much penetration into
the lower layers of the skin), but not all studies show this effect. While
there isn't too much other information on safflower oil or safflower seed oil
directly, it is quite similar in composition to sunflower oil, for which there is
a bit more research. Sunflower oil has fairly high levels of tocopherol
(Vitamin E), so it's a good balance to olive oil, which has a much lower
tocopherol content than seed oils. On another note, it seems that safflower
seed oil seems to be promoted by some sites online as part of a "healthier"
diet - perhaps this also stems from its similarity to sunflower oil. There is
also some evidence that sunflower oil might help atopic dermatitis even
more than olive oil, and the same goes for sunflower seed oil.
So as far as olive oil and safflower seed oil go, so far so good. I don't think
there is too much reason to be concerned there. Some of the other oils
that also appear in the product, however, might be a greater concern for
other users, depending on how sensitive they are to fragrant oils.
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Essential oils - not just in cosmetics! (Image source)
Some of the minor oils that make an appearance in small amounts are
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia
(Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin
Orange) Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, and
Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum) Oil. These are mainly used as fragrances in
cosmetics, and the science on these oils are mixed. On the one hand, there
is some limited evidence that some of these oils have some benefits, such
as orange oil having anti-microbial effects, or lavender oil having wound-
healing benefits, or patchouli having some preventive effects against UV
radiation. But the evidence for some of this is quite limited - I could only
find a single study in all the above-mentioned cases, in contrast to the
greater amount of studies done on olive and safflower/sunflower oil. I
usually prefer if I can find multiple studies with conclusion that are in line
with each other, because it indicates that the results are repeatable (i.e.
the original result was not some sort of one-off fluke). And, on the other
hand, some of these fragrant oils can be irritating for some people,
especially in high concentrations. For example, lavender oil can be an
irritant, although not all essential oils are irritants - for example geranium is
fairly low on the irritancy list. So I'd say, it's possible that for some people
they can work, but for others, they just trigger all sorts of skin reactions. My
assessment would be to go ahead cautiously (e.g. with a test patch) and
see how it works for you.
So as far as the plant oils go? The two ones that are present in the largest
amounts, Olive Oil and Safflower Seed Oil, don't seem to be a problem for
most people, but depending on your skin type and sensitivity, some of the
other fragrant oils might trigger some reaction. So test patch or get a
sample if you think you might have skin that might be sensitive to some of
these oils, but other people might see benefit from them.
My Top Three Picks From The Mega-Mushroom Skin
Relief Range
The Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Range, because it uses primarily the
same plant-based oils and extracts for the bulk of most of its products, ends
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up with somewhat similar formulations from product to product within the
range. In some ways, this is a good thing - it means that if you've tried one
product in the range, and really like it, chances are, you'll like the entire
range. But which product should you start off with, if you're just dipping
your toes into the range and don't want to buy everything at once? Ahh,
decisions, decisions. Fortunately, after trying the entire range, here are my
top three picks! (If you want to know more about other products in the
range, do feel free to leave a comment, but to keep this post from getting
too long, I'll just focus on my favourites for now).
First, the Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Advanced Face Serum.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Advanced Face Serum: Similar
to the Soothing Face Lotion, with emollients and plant extracts.
Take a look at the ingredients list:
Water, Jojoba Seed Oil, Glycerin, Yeast Extract, Olive Fruit Oil,
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Meadowfoam Seed
Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hypsizygus Ulmarius Mycelium Extract,
Orange Oil, Lavender Oil, Patchouli)Oil, Mandarin Orange Peel Oil,
Geranium Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum) Oil, Geraniol,
Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, Pleurotus Ostreatus (Mushroom)
Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract, Inonotus
Obliquus (Mushroom) Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract,
Ginger Root Extract Turmeric Root Extract, Cordyceps Sinensis
Extract, Mango Leaf Extract, Evening Primrose Oil, Sunflower Seed
Oil, Grapefruit Peel Extract, Rosemary Leaf Extract, Olive Fruit
Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Spike Moss Extract,
Wheat Bran Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Shea Butter,
Mango Seed Butter, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid, Dimethicone,
Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Corn Oil, Tocotrienols,
Cellulose, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate,
Calcium Carbonate, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
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The first thing you'll notice is the plant oils and extracts that I've mentioned.
There really are a lot of them, and Origins seems to have formulated with
them in fairly high concentrations, which is good if that's the main reason
you're buying the product. Other than the plant extracts, you'll find
primarily humectants (Glycerin), emollients (Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic
Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin). Once again, the primary benefit of
this, other than the plant extracts, is the skin-conditioning benefits, and
hydration.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Advanced Face Serum: Also
similar to the Soothing Face Lotion in feel and application.
So, when I used this product, I was expecting it to be quite thick or heavy,
given how many emollients were in there. Surprisingly, it was more like a
light gel, which absorbed fast. It's moisturizing enough that I didn't feel like I
had to use another product over it, but if you live in a dry or cold climate
you might wish to do so anyway because this light lotion alone may not be
sufficient. The Advanced Face Serum is somewhat similar to the Soothing
Face Lotion in terms of look and feel, so if you liked one, you'll probably liek
the other.
Another of my picks from the range is the Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief
Soothing Face Cream. This is the only cream-in-a-jar type product, with
the rest all being packaged in squeeze tubes or pump bottles.
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Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Soothing Face Cream: A face
cream that's rich in emollients and humectants to moisturize your
skin.
Here are the ingredients:
Water, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Water,
Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile) Flower Water, Myrtus Communis
(Myrtle) Leaf Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Myristyl
Myristate, Dicaprylyl Maleate, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate,
Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2,
Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hypsizygus Ulmarius
(Mushroom) Mycelium Extract, Inonotus Obliquus (Chaga
Mushroom) Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Yeast Extract
(Faex), Menyanthes Trifoliata (Buckbean) Leaf Extract, Sigesbeckia
Orientalis (St. Paul's Wort) Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus
Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Lavandula
Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil,
Citrus Reticulata (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Pelargonium
Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Olibanum)
Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Glycine Soja
(Soybean) Sterols, Silybum Marianum (Lady's Thistle) Extract,
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat
Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein,
Calluna Vulgaris (Heather) Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat Bran)
Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive)
Fruit Extract, Micrococcus Lysate, Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate,
Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter, Adenosine Phosphate, Linoleic
Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate,
Pantethine, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Trehalose, Glycerin,
Lecithin, Cholesterol, Ceteareth-20, Dextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose,
Cellulose, Potassium Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer,
Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin,
Phenoxyethanol, Mica, Titanium Dioxide
This has mostly plant extracts, but other than that, you have emollients
(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Maleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl
Alcohol, Stearic Acid) and humectants (Butylene Glycol), as well as a few
emulsifiers (PEG-100 Stearate) to make sure everything doesn't separate.
Myristyl Myristate is interesting - it's an ester that is added to products to
make them feel velvety on the skin, and while most people should be fine
with it, I've sometimes had some issues with those in the past (namely, I've
had products with those ingredients breaking me out), so I tend to prefer
products without the ingredient. Interestingly, this is the only product in
the range with Myristyl Myristate, perhaps because of its comparatively
thicker texture. If you're concerned about it, you can test patch, but I think
most people should be fine.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Soothing Face Cream: A balm-
like, highly emollient face cream suitable for dry skin, with plant
extracts.
When I used it, I found that the Soothing Face Cream felt oily and liquid-
like rather than creamy. Maybe "oily" isn't quite the right word - my best
description of this would be perhaps, like some sort of face balm or facial
oil. It's not really the light, creamy emulsions we've come to expect
nowadays. Think of it as a cross between a face oil and a cream, and you
more or less have the texture. If you let it sit for a few minutes, it should all
sink in, and you can go on to the next step in your skincare routine. This
feels quite luxurious when used, because of its balmy texture, and I can
imagine people probably preferring it as a night-time cream.
Now, the lone eye product in the Mega-Mushroom range, which is the
Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Eye Serum. Out of the 7 products in the
Mega-Mushroom range, this is the only one for the eye.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Eye Serum: An eye serum
with emollients and humectants.
Since you've seen the ingredients list for the previous two products, you'll
probably know what to expect this time round:
Water, Myrtus Communis (Myrtle) Leaf Water, Anthemis Nobilis
(Chamomile) Flower Water, Methyl Trimethicone, Yeast Extract,
Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 40, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate,
Silica, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Hypsizygus Ulmarius Mycelium Extract,
Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract, Cordyceps
Sinensis (Mushroom) Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root
Extract, Ocimum Sanctum (Holy Basil) Leaf Extract, Selaginella
Tamariscina (Spike Moss) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange)
Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Pogostemon Cablin
(Patchouli) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil,
Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii
(Olibanum) Oil, Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, Vitis Vinifera
(Grape) Seed Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Curcuma
Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel
Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Prunus
Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract, Silybum Marianum
(Lady's Thistle) Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed
Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse
Chestnut) Bark Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Perilla
Ocymoides Seed Extract, Glycerin, Adenosine Phosphate,
Isomerized Linoleic Acid, Tromethamine, Tribehenin, Myristyl
Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Linoleic
Acid, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Creatine, Dextrin, Coleus
Barbatus Extract, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate,
Phytosphingosine, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin,
Sorbic Acid
Ingredients-wise, this is full of emollients (Cetyl Ricinoleate is the main one,
but there are others like Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride), and humectants
(Butylene Glycol primarily, but you can also see things like Sodium
Hyaluronate and Glycerin). There are also a couple of silicones (Methyl
Trimethicone, Dimethicone) which in this case also function primarily as
emollients. Of course, there are emulsifiers (Polysorbate 4, PEG-100
Stearate) which is necessary in any product combining oil and water. Again,
as with the face products, the main draw of this product would be the plant
extracts, because the remainder of the formulation is pretty stripped-down,
with Origins choosing to let the plant oils and extracts take center stage.
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Eye Serum: A light but
emollient eye cream.
The first thing I noticed when I used the Skin Relief Eye Serum was that it
doesn't have the citrus-y, linanool-like scent that I found all the other
products in the range to have so far. Perhaps this is because it's formulated
for the eye area, and they wanted to keep it suitable for the eye. I couldn't
really place the scent of this - it was more subtle (perhaps mushroom-y
might be a way to describe it), but in any case, after application there isn't
any scent. And as expected, with the emolliency of the product, I felt like it
did moisturize my eye area. It feels more thin and balmy (like a lighter
version of a facial oil) than thick and creamy however, once you rub it in,
and after a few seconds it absorbs fairly fast.
(Product was sent for review. Review is my complete and honest opinion. I am not affiliated
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Range: Best for dry skin that
needs some help repairing the barrier function.
So, what's my overall view on the Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief range? First
off, I have to say that I don't think I'm the target audience for this line of
products - they are really quite emollient, and seem formulated for
someone with drier skin than I do. So I'd say you'll probably like this best if
you have dry skin to start off with, not my combination/acne-prone skin.
People with aging skins might also like this, because skin tends to get drier
as it ages. Also, another thing that I really respected about the product was
its commitment to its advertising - it advertises itself as a natural, plant-
based product, and sure enough, the ingredients are indeed comprised
largely of plant extracts. That impressed me on its own because I've seen
lots of brands advertise themselves as being "natural", yet when you look
the ingredients list, it's clear that the plant extracts come in below the
preservative line, at levels of less than 0.1%. So to be fair, if you're looking
for a brand that lives up to its marketing, then this is also worth checking
out. In all, I'd say if you 1) have dry skin 2) like plant-based skincare and can
tolerate plant extracts/oils in your products, and 3) want a brand that lives
up to its marketing, this is worth checking out.
RECOMMENDED? FORMULATION PACKAGING
EASE OF
USE
EFFECTIVENESS
DEPENDS ON SKIN
SENSITIVITY
7/10 8/10 8/10 7/10
THE BOTTOM LINE: THIS IS PROBABLY A LOVE-IT-
OR-HATE-IT TYPE PRODUCT, WITH ITS HEAVY
USAGE OF PLANT OILS AND EXTRACTS. IF YOU
HAVE DRY SKIN THAT SUITS THOSE TYPES OF
INGREDIENTS, THEN YOU' LL FIND THIS A GREAT
WAY TO MOISTURIZE YOUR SKIN, WITH SOME
ADDITIONAL BENEFITS.

POWERED BY BLOGGER. DESIGN BY LINGYDESIGN
with/compensated by the company.)
1 Tweet 15
Cleanser, Eye Cream, Face Mask, Ingredients Analysis, Lotion, Moisturizer, Origins, Serum, Skincare,
Skincare Science
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