1.

Open Bonnet
2. Check kit is complete. The picture below shows one side of the kit.



3. Undo 2x10mm bonnet bolt on hinges



4. Undo the 10mm bolt on the wing, it s the one before the hole working your
way to the back of the engine bay


5. Place washer and screw Together.
6. Tighten the screw into the wing (pick the bolt with the closest thread to the
one removed.)


7. Tighten the other joint bolt into the hinge in the bonnet. Place the Ball joint
onto the fixing point. Push the fix pin through the hold in the side.



8. Push the pin over the top of the ball joint to secure it




9. Screw the strut into the ball joints. The Thicker end of the struts should go
towards the top of the installation.




Repeat for the other side.

One side is not strong enough to support the full weight of the bonnet.

Check for clearance against the wing when shutting the bonnet for the first time.
How To @ Astra-Sport

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How To @ Astra-Sport
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How To @ Astra-Sport



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Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO
responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you
are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty
might be invalidated if this modification is done.

Carefully prise a small pick/screwdriver between the indicator and the bodywork (you can
unclip it from behind by removing the inner arch liner but that takes too long and is dirty),
at the back of the indicator is a clip, you will need to push this in slightly for the indicator
lense to pop out.





Note on some of the indicator lenses you will need to change from a white bulb to an
orange emitting bulb, this is because some lenses do not come with the orange section
built into the lense, the orange emitting light is required for an MOT pass. Some of the
bulb holders pull out of the lense some twist out. The standard bulb is a push in type in the
holder itself.









This is now a good time to clean around the wing area that was covered by the old
indicator lense.

Push/Twist the bulb holder back in the new lense



Now push the lense back into the original place in the wing



Make sure the lense clicks into place, NOTE the lense sits in position on the back edge and
clips in the front (lenses maybe differ)
How to fit coupe lights to your mk4 astra

Tools:

Set of screw drivers of the + kind
Set of torx screwdrivers
Plus a square headed one for adjusting the lights once fitted.
Set of spanners
Pliers


Before you do anything, drive up to a wall about 1 meter away and turn on your headlights, draw a line around
the area which they hit on the wall, it should be a rough triangle. You can use this as a guide when aligning
the new coupe lights.

Undo all of the screws holding the bumper onto the car. There are 4 screws in all and 3 push in pegs under the
car.

Undo the screw at the top of each wheel arch first.













Then at the bottom of the wheel arch going upwards is another one. See picture



Then get under the car and just pries off the clips, 3 in a row about 30cm from the front of the bumper. J ust
pull out the center pin using some pliers and the pop out the rest of the clip, takes seconds.




Next step is undo the 2 screws you cant miss on top of the bumper with the bonnet open.



Then tug away the bumper firmly, it will come lose as long as you found all the screws.
Its best to have a towel or something to lay the bumper on so it doesnt scratch. You should now be looking at
something like this.



Now undo the 3 bolts holding on the headlights, they unscrew easily enough.
There are two bolts on top and one underneath.



Once you have done this just undo all the connectors from the back of each light and replace the headlight
with the coupe one. Its best to do one light at a time so you can see what went where from the other one.
Once you have fitted both lights check that all the functions are working, sidelights, full beam etc. then re fit
the bumper following the removal process is reverse.














Next align your lights; this is very important, if you want to see where you are going.

Drive back up to the wall to were you were before and check with the lights on to make sure that the
illumination falls into the same area. If it doesnt, dont worry. J ust pull out the bung bellow. This is just above
the light; just turn the bolt inside using the square screwdriver left or right to align it with your guides on the
wall.



Finished, stand back and admire.



as requested, my "how to"
Tools needed:
Hair dryer
old creditcard
Time taken:
10 mins
'before' picture....eww, look at those nasty badges!
Step 1:
Its a good idea to protect your lights from the heat of the hairdryer, otherwise
they might 'bubble'. I used an old cloth which worked well enough.
Step 2:
Hold the hairdryer very close to the badge and slowly move it around the edges
warming the glue.
Step 3:
Use your old credit card (really dont use a new one, i melted the edges of the
missus' matalan card.....whoops!) slide the card under the badge and try to get
as much glue off as you can while its still hot. the badge should peal of quite
easily.
Step 4:
clean up the remaining glue, this is the hardest part as once its started to dry its
difficult to shift, but a good old bit of elbow grease should shift it. If you find your
paint is brighter underneath where the badges were you can use t-cut to blend it
all in. Glue is easily removed with surgical spirit.
Easy as pie!



By Chris Hill


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO
responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you
are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty
might be invalidated if this modification is done.

Thanks To Lord Nikon for the 'How-To' :

Step 1:
Loosen the highlighted jubille clips (7mm spanner or socket) and remove the trunking to
the left of the engine bay. You should have enough play in the wires !

















Step 2:
You will see my setup highlighted and the arrow highlights the boost pressure pipe to the
gauge. I fed mine from inside the car, a gromet is about half way up the fire screen under
the dash. You will need to remove the covers on the bottom of the dashboard and above
the footwell.





















Step 3: (see step 3 picture )
This shows the T piece construction. Note the pressure crimps on the weaker points of the
installation. The hosing used is 4mm internal bore. Note the black pipe running down
behind the engine. This is the one that started off connected to the small right angle tube





Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO
responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you
are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty
might be invalidated if this modification is done.

How to fit a Strut Brace
First, unclip the fuse box from the retaining brackets and carefully cut off the lug that`s on
the side facing you, this has to done to allow the fuse box to fit properly. as pic 1



Then gently ease the fuse box forward, (you might have to loosen the positive lead
connection on the battery as the cable is quite stiff) so that the rear clip fits into the front
of the bracket on the car, as in pic 2




Next, remove the nut holding the black cap on the top of the suspension struts, pic 3



Position strut brace pic 4














Replace black cups and tighten the nuts. pic 5



Drill through the lugs on the brace with 8.5mm drill. pic 6














Now comes the tricky bit, I had to remove both front wheels in turn to enable me to fit the
nuts and bolts, you might be able to do this by just jacking each side up in turn.

The finished article. pic 7


Fit bumpers
This is posted elsewhere but I thought after id give it its own thread.
Fitting the Irmscher front and rear skirts.
It is important first of all to remove any paint from the area along the edge of the skirt that the glue will be
applied so it will bond correctly

Remove the standard lower trim from the bumper. Now with the bumper cleaned get you masking tape ready
to hold the skirt on.


Then apply the sikkaflex glue to the top edge of the skirt in a bead about 6mm in diameter. Then with a
helping hand hold the spoiler in position, its best to put it on low and slide it up the bumper into the right
place, this creates less mess. Then screw in you self tappers, one in each end and one in each vent.
Once the screws are in gradually go from one side of the skirt to the other pushing the skirt up into position
and scraping of any excess glue with the plastic spatula (sp?) and sticking the tape in place to hold it.

The let it dry overnight if possible

The rear is a very similar operation, the only difference being the screws. The rear has one in each end and
three accross the back which use spacers between the skirt and the body.

So thats it done, stand back and admire your handy work.











Guide for an electric/heated mirror conversion.
The conversion to electric mirrors is made very simple as Vauxhall have kindly
fitted all Astra Gs with the wiring already on the loom.
Parts required:
electric door mirrors x2
switch ( part # 9226863)
Gusset x2 (part # 9100286, 9100285)
Fuse 10a (part # 91153942)
Step 1:
Removing the door card and gusset.
There are three screws at the bottom and four behind the handle cover, you will
have to prise this off. Its tough but will give in the end. Once the screws are
removed pull the door card from the bottom as there is still some push studs
holding it onto the door. You will then have to use your fingers under the weather
seal along the edge of the window lifting it up gently as not to bend it. Disengage
the cable from the silver handle.
Remove the gusset from the door. This should just pull off with your fingers.
Remove the tweeter speaker
You then have to locate the wires, one for the mirror (black square connection)
and one for the switch (grey L shape).
Step 2:
Replacing the old manual mirrors with the new ones.
Unscrew the three crosshead screws then lift off the mirror. While your there
clean of any dirt from the door. The new one should just screw in to place but
look for the little plastic tag at the top of the triangle. Connect the black plug in to
the mirror.
Step 3:
Connecting the switch
Push the old cover out from the back of the door card then just push the switch
in.
Step 4:
Replace the door card remembering to connect the grey L shaped plug in to the
mirror switch.
Step 5:
Push the tweeter in to the new gusset and attach it to the door.
Step 6:
Push the 10amp fuse in to slot 41 as this will allow the heated mirrors to function
when the rear heated window switch it turned on.
Fuse box is located under the dashboard on the right hand side behind the small
compartment.
Passenger side is the same procedure.
Job done!
Remove the cover behind the light Undo the two spinners and the connector
Like so Now remove the light to the rear
Press in the four tags to release the bulb holder
Then swap the holder over to the new
the bulb holder light
Then refit light and tighten spinners and reconnect bulb unit






How to fit irmscher side skirts

They are really easy to fit mate, will take about 20 mins. Just get some new clips
from Vauxhall that hold the skirt onto the side of the sill. You need 10 and will set
you back about 3.50 all in.
There are several plastic rivets underneath, to remove these you will need
something like an electrical screwdriver to push the centre core of the clip out,
then you can pull the skirt off. You should get new plastic rivets with the side
skirts.
This is after the standard skirt had been pulled off, you can see where the pegs
are that the clips hold on

When you have the clips back on just push the side skirts on and fit the plastic
rivets underneath.

OPELS branch-rise up 98? 2000 ; Zafira 99?
2000
Leak ages bet w een t he t i nt ed w i ndshi el d and t he
housi ng at t he headl i ght .



Mentioned on above vehicles if humidity in the headlight is criticized, can be attributed to a too small distance
between hood and headlight. By this too small distance or strikes the hood presses on the headlight and leads
to damages.
For the recovery of the damage that or the defective headlights must be renewed. Additionally the following
work must be implemented:
1. Locking of the hood stop again. Measure and stop to it, with opened hood, the distance from
the hood sheet metal up to the disk of the locking again. The new setting dimension is calculated by
the old measure of +1,0? 1,5mm.
2. Stop buffers in the hood one revolution out turn.
Control the again stopped distance between hood and rubber seal headlight. Use for it a feeler gage 0.5 mm. It
must be able to be pulled without resistance by the gap.



Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO
responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you
are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty
might be invalidated if this modification is done.

How to remove a strut

- Jack the car up and take the wheel nuts off.

- Notice the nuts that you have to take off indicated by the white arrows below.






- The nuts holding the struts on both sides are 18mm and also the nut facing the outside
of the sway bar is 18mm.

- The nut behind the sway bar is 19mm which is where you'll need the 19mm spanner to
stop the sway bar link from spinning.

- Undo the sway bar link first, then the 2 bolts holding the hub to the strut.

- With someone underneath holding the strut, undo the nut indicated below by the arrow



- The strut will fall out and removed so that the spring and strut can be replaced.




- A word of warning, if you don't know what you are doing from now on, please don't do it
as springs contain a lot of potential energy in its partially compressed state and can take
out limbs and at worse, kill you.

- Put the bottom of the strut on a vice so that the strut is secured. Just don't grip it too
tight.

- Attach the spring compressor on opposite sides.

- Slowly, compress each sides a bit at a time evenly until it becomes loose in the strut (i.e
you can jiggle it freely).

- Using your deep socket 18mm, undo the nut that holds the top hat.

- I don't know if there is an alternative for the above line, but a rattle gun must be used at
this point as I've tried using manual power with no avail because you need a 9mm spanner
and 18mm spanner (preferably ring spanner) but that bolt is mega tight.

- Remove the top hat and springs and remove all the rubbers on the existing strut.

- Remove the old strut off the vice.

- Attach the new strut on the vice and put back all the rubbers and spring (still in the
compressor) onto the new strut.

- Put back the 18mm nut and tighten using the rattle gun.

- Make sure the spring is on the strut in the correct position by checking the base of the
spring fits in the correct position. (There are markings on the strut).

- Undo the spring compressor.

- Reverse the fitment instructions.

- Tip 1: You may need a really long crow bar to lift/drop the sway bar a bit so the sway bar
link can be fitted.

- Tip 2: You also may need to put some stuff under the disc to compress the strut because
I had to drop the car down without its wheels and supported on the disc with a couple of
old rotors and a piece of wood underneath to be able to lift/drop the sway bar link.


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO
responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you
are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty
might be invalidated if this modification is done.

How to remove the rear shocks
* Because of the nature of the rear suspension, you should ONLY do one side at a time

- Jack the car up and take the wheel nuts off



- Notice the 2 nuts that need to be removed

- The top nut is 15mm and the bottom nut is 17mm



- Place a small jack under the trailing arm and jack it up a bit (10-20mm is enough) as this
will stop any movement in the trailing arm.



- Undo the bottom nut holding the shocks first, then undo the top nut.




- Done!

* To adjust shocks such as Koni, you can get away with undoing only the bottom nut and
compressing the shocks and adjusting them that way.

- Reverse to install.


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO
responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you
are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty
might be invalidated if this modification is done.

Thanks To Alan Mk4 for the 'How-To' :

Replacing dash and centre console bulbs for LEDS?

Time needed; allow 4 hours.
Tools needed; 8 x LEDs in Osram holders 1 x Single LED without holder,
Long nosed pliers, Star head screwdriver, large and small headed screwdriver, and
Patience!!

1. Use the small headed screwdriver to remove the small panel in between the gear gaiter
and the ashtry.Slide the screwdriver down the side and just lift it out.

2. Open the ashtry, take out the inside sleeve. Remove the lighter surround. It (just clicks
out) Next pull down the flap at the top to reveal the 4 screws. Remove these and putt in a
safe place. The whole ashtray and surround will now pull out, be careful!! It is attached on
the left of the lighter surround and should ease out. It should now be hanging out with the
wires attached to the back of the lighter.

3. Disconect both wires. The smaller connection holds the Bulb for the lighter surround,
pull it out and replace with the single LED. Make sure you turn on your lights to make sure
it works before you continue.

4. Next you must take out any head unit and the cage its in. You will see 2 screws inside
the opening that are holding on the centre console, remove these carefully. Make sure
they dont drop down!

5. Now is the time to remove the console. Hold on to the bottom and slightly pull it
towards you. Get the large headed screwdriver and slide it between the console and the
dash just above and to the left of the MFD display.DONT force it in, just try and make a
small gap and get it in. As you ease the console upwards try and prise the console away
using the screwdriver it should give way and release itself.

6. Disconect the large connector behind the MFD display. It is a held in place with a clip
that looks like a mouse trap. You will understand when you come to it : )

7. You will now see all the wires for the Heater controls and the Hazard light. There is not
much room to work here so just take your time.Dissconect the large yellow connector first,
press down the small clip on the top and it should release it. Next you will have to remove
the wires from there plastic holes in the heater control arms. Use your long nose pliers to
un-hook them out of the holes. The wires are inside rubber sleeves which have plastic clips
on them, these are clipped into small holders on the console(you will see what I mean
when you get there).Take the plastic clips out of there holders and all you should have
now is the last small connector and the hazard switch.

8. Disconect the small black connector. The front of the hazard switch should
Pop out using the small headed screwdriver. Switch the lights on and prise it off from
underneath. Turn it off, the whole connector should now come out with a bit of
encouragement.

9. Now you have access the the back of the Centre console!! First you can change the
bulbs in the MFD display using the long nose pliers. Take it easy and try not to rush.
REMEMBER THE LEDS ONLY WORK ONE WAY!! It is a 50/50 chance of them working the
first time. After you put them in reconnect the clock and turn on your lights to make sure
they work. If they dont remove the connector twist the holder 180 degrees and try
again.Taadaaa!!!! This is what all the work is for. Trick lights: )


10. Now change the 2 bulbs in the heater controls. Same as before, plug in the large
yellow connector and see if they work. If not twist and they will work.PLEASE make sure
you know they are all working before you start putting it all back together.

11. Now is the hard part! Putting it all back together again. First reconnect the MFD display
and the Hazard switch. Then the large yellow connector for the Heater controls. This is the
tricky bit. Try putting the car into 1st gear and take off the Handbrake
, this will help you lie down so you can see the underneath of the console better. Have you
long nose pliers ready. Start by the end wires farthest away from you. Using the pliers
grab the wires about 1 inch from the end and hook them back into there holes in the
plastic arms. You will know which wire goes into which hole as there is not much give in
them. One is a wire and one has a barrel shape on the end that just sits in a holder. When
you have the wires in the holes the rubber sleeves need to go back in the clips. Put the
barrel one into the clip first by sliding it in. Then the other sleeve clips in on top of it. Both
clips in the one holder. Next do the other wire and clip its sleeve into the holder.

12. The rest is now a reversal of the removal. Just put the screws, headunit and ashtray
back in.
Tools needed: small head screwdriver
pliers
flat head screwdriver
small head hammer
socket wrench
Time required: 20-30mins
Remove the 14 expanding rivets (7 each side) from underneith the skirts. then,
remove the old crappy skirts by whatever means necessary. if your cold and
stressed just rip em off and smash the shit out of em. then using the socket
wrench, unscrew the 10 plastic nuts from whats left of the clips and remove
remaining plastic.
It should look like this:
put new clips on the pegs and screw the plastic nuts back on (remember they are
plastic nuts so do not screw too hard because you will fuck up the thread)
It should then look like this:
then line up the clips to the irmscher skirts and slowly and carefully push on...
this can take some time and if your sittin on stony cold concrete it can be a little
difficult. then push in the new expanding rivets underneith the car and hammer in
the center pins to secure in place
It should look like this:
There we go easy as that, all done, but very cold, well chuffed.
Edited by: Martin at: 1/7/03 10:36:55 pm
Replacing Manual Wing-mirrors.
Difficulty Easy
Time - Aprox 20 to 30 mins
Cost - 72 inc P+P
Mirrors supplied pre-painted by R-Tec Auto Design.
Yes, it was raining when I did this, and I did use dust sheets to cover the car so it didnt get wet inside, I just
moved them for the pictures.
The only minor gripe I have with the finished job is that there are no arms to adjust the mirrors from inside the
car, but I really dont move them that often. Its a small price to pay for the added style!
Parts needed
6 screws per mirror x3 to attach the base to the mirror and x3 to attach the base/mirror to the car. Sizes will
vary between mirror manufacturers.
Appropriate screwdrivers
Dodgy old carpet to put everything on (optional.)
Attach the bases to the mirrors.
Remove the cover for the wing mirror adjuster arm buy nipping the base slightly so it pops out of the plastic
panel, then pull firmly to remove completely.
Pull the plastic panel away from the door, its held on by 3 plastic poppers which require a little force to actually
pop.
Undo the 3 screws. One is set quite far back in the door, and is highly likely to drop down a little gap and
behind the door card, which would be a real pain as youd have to remove the door card to get rid of the
annoying little rattle. I used a rolled up parking ticket around the screw to catch it, but a magnetic screw-driver
and a steady hand would work just as well.
Pull the mirror away from the door, and pull off the protective foam on the back as it can be used on the new
mirror.
Line up the new mirror with the holes
Tighten up the screws from the inside. The new screws I used were considerably larger than the originals, but
there was still plenty of room for them in the original holes. Up to a 6mm screw should be fine.
When removing the plastic panel with the tweeter in it, you may find that some of the poppers stay in the door
rather than coming away with the panel. At this point you can use a small flat headed screw-driver to prize them
out of their holes. Protect the paintwork with a soft cloth around the end of the screwdriver. Now you can push
the cover back into its position on the door, putting pressure over the poppers until you hear them click into
place. Be careful not to trap any speaker wires. Next replace the cover for the mirror adjuster arm.
The finished job!