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Procedia Engineering 90 (2014) 154 159

10th International Conference on Mechanical Engineering, ICME 2013

Comparative Study of Ring and Compact Yarn-Based Knitted

Fabric
0G$EGXV6KDKLGD0G'HOZDU+RVVDLQD0G1DNLE8O+DVDQE0G$ULIXO,VODPF
DDept.

of Textile Engineering, Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology, Gazipur-1700, Bangladesh.

EDepartment of Textile Engineering, Northern University, Bangladesh.
FDelta Spinning Mills Ltd. Gazipur, Bangladesh

Abstract
The compact spinning system was designed on the basis of conventional ring-spinning system along with a negligible mechanical
variation but to deviate significantly yarn properties. This article presents an analysis and comparative study of the properties of
100% cotton yarn of 30 Ne spun on compact spinning frame & conventional ring spinning frame and the significant variation in
fabric properties. Mechanical properties e.g. tenacity, elasticity, elongation% at break, breaking-work, breaking-force
and evenness properties e.g. unevenness, thick, thin, neps, hairiness of both types of yarns were tested and compared.
Shrinkage, pilling, bursting strength, abrasion resistance, washing fastness, perspiration fastness, rubbing fastness properties of
single jersey knitted dyed fabrics made from ring and compact yarns were investigated. Compact yarn based single jersey
knitted fabric exhibited better pilling resistance, higher bursting strength, perspiration resistance whereas the both fabrics have
similar spirality.

by Elsevier
Ltd. This
an open access
2014
2014Published
The Authors.
Published
byisElsevier
Ltd. article under the CC BY-NC-ND license
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/).
Selection and peer-review under responsibility of the Department of Mechanical Engineering, Bangladesh University of
Selection
and peer-review
under responsibility
Engineering
and Technology
(BUET). of the Department of Mechanical Engineering, Bangladesh University of Engineering
and Technology (BUET)

Keywords: compact yarn; ring yarn; knitted fabric; pilling; fabric properties.

1. Introduction
To meet the consistently uniform yarn characteristics and diversified customer demands, through the production
of diverse, novel and creative yarns focus of spinning industries goes to the new spinning system. Consequently,
certain techniques have been introduced onto the spinning market which offer improved quality and/or reduced costs
* Corresponding author.
E-mail address: DVKDKLG#JPDLOFRP

1877-7058 2014 Published by Elsevier Ltd. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license

(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/).
Selection and peer-review under responsibility of the Department of Mechanical Engineering, Bangladesh University of Engineering
and Technology (BUET)
doi:10.1016/j.proeng.2014.11.829

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155

for yarn production by inducing some sort of modifications on ring spinning technology [1]. The most accepted of
them is the compact spinning system. Compact yarn is a revolution in spinning technology on that respect. Yarns
produced by compact spinning have many advantages over traditional ring spun yarns. Over recent years, the system
of compact spinning has constituted a rapidly developing technological trend in most countries. The present research
was conducted to study the properties of compact spun and traditional ring spun yarns. The results show that almost
all the properties of the compact yarns are better than that of traditional ring spun yarns.
1.1. Operating principle of compact spinning frame

Fig.1. (a)Conventional ring spinning vs. the ComforSpin principle; (b) Suction system of compact machine.
The spinning triangle [10, 11, 15] that occurs while the yarn is formed is the reason why many fibres leave the
drafting roving, or become partly spun into the yarn with one end only. This causes a greater waste of fibres, a lower
exploitation of fibres tenacity in yarn, a poorer appearance and a greater hairiness of the spun yarn [6]. The drafting
system of a conventional ring spinning machine unfortunately delivers the fibers over a width W which is
considerably larger than width WS of the adjacent spinning triangle Fig.1.(a) In the compact spinning system, the
fibres are compacted aerodynamically just after the drafting. Fiber flow is laterally condensed by gentle
aerodynamic forces in an aerodynamic condensing zone between the drafting unit and the yarn formation point. The
fibers are supported and transported by a perforated drum Fig. 1.(b). Inside this drum is a stationary insert with
specially shaped openings. The air flow through the perforated drum, caused by sub-atmospheric pressure inside the
drum, produces the desired condensation of the fiber flow prior to yarn formation The fibres become more closely
aligned and increasingly parallel within this compacting zone [9,10] prior to yarn formation. This allows nearly all
of the fibres to contribute to the yarn structure under relatively equal tension. As the twist is given at a location
which is very near to the clamping line of the end rollers, short fibres also contribute to the yarn structure under
controlled tension at this critical location. This enables yarn production with a reduced level of hairiness. Fig.2.
demonstrates the comparison of ring-spun and compact spun yarns [7].

Fig. 2. yarn structure of conventional ring comb (A) and compact yarn (B) of 100% cotton
The vast majority of the aforementioned studies deal with the properties of compact yarn as it is in yarn form. In this
study, we inspected fabric samples knitted from compact spun yarn in comparison with fabric samples knitted from
classic ring-spun yarn. The comparison tests dealt particularly with the pilling properties, strength properties, and
abrasion properties of the fabric samples after dying with same shade. This approach not only examines the
behaviour of the compact yarn during further production processes, but associatively allows the manifestations of
compact spun yarn on the end product to be observed.

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2. Materials and methods

In this study, 30/1 Ne classic ring yarn and 30/1 Ne compact yarn were spun from the same raw cotton blend,
made by using USA, IND and MALI cotton. The combed and compact yarns were spun on Toyota RX 240 and
Rieter K 44 machine respectively. The pre-processes up to roving frame for both yarns were identical.
3. Tests applied on fabric samples
Single jersey fabrics were knitted from that combed ring-spun and compact cotton yarn in Fukuhara circular
knitting machine having 20 diameter and 24 gauges.
3.1 Tests on the fabric samples
Dyeing processes are carried out in Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology (DUET) dyeing laboratory
on the compact yarns sample and comb yarns sample by the application of 2% shade. After microscopic
examination the following tests were performed on both samples.
Table 1. Tests on the fabric samples
Test name

Method

Type
Hydraulic bursting
strength tester

Bursting strength
Pilling test

ISO 12945-1

IPI Pillbox

Rubbing fastness

ISO 10512

Color fastness to perspiration

ISO 105 E04:1994

Perspiration meter

Colorfastness to wash

ISO 105 C03

Gyrowash

Dimensional stability (shrinkage & spirality)

ISO6330: 2000(E)

Washing machine

Crock meter

4. Results and discussion

4.1 Bursting strength
The results of the analysis of variance and comparison of individual means for fabric strength reveal that the
effect of the bursting strength of the compact yarn fabric is higher than the comb yarn fabric. This test [14] result
may be causes due to the higher tenacity and elongation % of the compact yarn. It was aimed to predict the bursting
strength of the plain knitted fabrics regarding different types of yarn.
4.2 Pilling Test
Pilling resistance properties (fig.4) of the compact yarn knitted fabric sample is higher than ring yarn fabric
because of lower number of short fiber present in the compact yarn. Also during the twisting period all the fibers are
contribute into the spinning triangle in the compact spinning system. The total number of rub was 10800 for this
experiment. Pilling tendency of fabrics is affected by the yarn hairiness. The fabrics knitted with compact yarns

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have better pilling performance compared to the fabric knitted from conventional ring yarns. The interaction effect
of spinning system and yarn linear density effect is significant on fabric pilling grade.

Fig. 3. Bursting strength evaluation of fabric samples.

Fig. 4. Pilling test result of fabric sample.

4.3 Yarn properties

Table 2. Comparison between ring and compact yarns parameters.
Test Parameter

 Yarn count Ne 30

Yarn Count

Compact
29.94

Comb
29.96

Count CV%

0.56

0.60

Tenacity (cN/Tex)

18.67

16.66

Elongation %

4.05

4.41

Elongation CV%

8.60

6.50

Uster U%

8.95

9.15

Uster CVm %

11.31

11.53

Thin places/ Km

0.50

Thick places/ Km

15

16

Neps/Km

22.5

18

IPI

38

35

CSP

2473

2411

TPI

19.46

20.28

Hairiness

4.22

5.76

The measurements of uniformity and hairiness of the conventional and compact yarns has confirmed that the
compact yarns have very good uniformity and extremely low hairiness. The drafting system structure and the
geometry of the spinning triangle occurring at the point of fibres spinning-in into the ring-spun yarn contribute to
obtaining yarns with better uniformity and significantly lower primary and secondary hairiness [12] These result
(Table 2) exhibits that tenacity, elongation, CV%, and hairiness values of compact yarn is better compare to the ring
spun yarn but neps were found more. This may cause due to the inefficient operation of the suction drum of the
compact spinning machine.

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4.4 Colour fastness

In dry state the rubbing fastness properties [13,14,15] of the compact and comb yarn fabrics were similar(fig. 5)
but in wet state ring yarn fabric shows better result because dye molecules are penetrate into and fix properly due to
porous of the ring yarn fabrics. This result (fig. 6) revealed that there is no significant difference between the both
types of sample with perspiration test [14, 15].Also the result shows that washing fastness [13, 15] properties of the
compact yarn fabrics are poorer compare to the comb yarn fabric. This may causes due to not proper fixation of the
dyes into the compact fabric.

Fig. 5. Colour fastness to Rubbing of ring vs compact yarn fabric.

Fig. 6. Colour fastness to wash and perspiration of ring vs compact

yarn fabric.

5. Conclusion
The following conclusion may be drawn based on the observation carried out during this study. The results are
valid only within the experimental regions.
1. The tenacity of the compact yarns expresses greater value than conventional ring spun yarn, which influence
the fabric strength. The elongation % of the compact yarns has a significantly lower value than that of
conventional ring yarn. This property has an especially good effect in knitting, where elasticity and elongation at break are features of substantial importance.
2. Fabrics knitted from compact yarns have divergent visual properties; namely, they are more brilliant and
glossier. The test results displayed that the fabric samples knitted out of compact yarns exhibited better
bursting strength values at every stages of applied load, but the washing fastness and perspiration test did
not reveal any significant difference between the samples. Fabric samples out of compact yarns displayed
better pilling behaviors after dyeing process.
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