1 90 The Fringe, the Valence, and the Lace Border.
Richer tyi^es of Fringes may be produced either by variety of
i\\e edge, so that tufts of unequal lengths form rhythmically alternating groups (fig. 2), or by using several thicknesses of Fringe, lying one behind the other, (fig. 4). The Fringe is always applied long, when a pendant termination is required. In other cases as, for example, where the fringed ma- terial is to lie horizontally, like small Table-covers, Napkins, &c., it is advisable to keep the fringe short. Fringes have been in use from the very earliest periods; but it is again the Orientals, and especially the Assyrians, who show a pre- ference for this form. Fringes occur perpetually in various national costumes, and in the toilet of our modern ladies. The Renascence adopted the Fringe as a trimming for furniture, fiiid specially for chairs; although not always with true artistic feeling. The Valence is a hanging textile termination; the lower edge is ornamentally cut, and is often ornamented with cords, tassels, em- broidery, &c. The upper edge of the Valence is generally fixed to a moulding. Valences occur as the interior furnishing of Windows, on four-post Beds, Baldachins, Canopies, Tents, Marquees, &c.; of late years, they have been used on Awnings, and Outside -blinds. Plate 119- The Yal^ence. 1. Tomb of the Incas, Ancon, Peru, United collections, Carlsruhe. 2. Indian - Mexican pouch, United collections, Carlsruhe. 3. Egyptian, (Ebers). 4. Renascence, (Storck). 5. Mediaeval maniple, (Teirich). 6. Turkish saddle-cloth, 1690, United collections, Carlsruhe. 7. Renascence, silver. 8 9. Modern designs, by Prignot. The Lace Border. (Plate 120.) Of all products of the textile art. Lace is the most interesting. There is something poetical about it, like flowers. The combination of the conventional treatment with those accidental features which hand-work confers upon the delicate, light material, gives them a peculiar charm. Who invented lace manufacture, and in what year, cannot now be detei-mined. Lace is one of those things which the Renascence has handed down to us without having inherited it from the Antique. The stimulus, to the invention of lace and the basis of its manufacture, is probably to be found in the textile hand-work of the Middle Ages, such as was practised, particularly in convents, for ecclesiastical purposes.
Navajo weavers: Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1881-'82, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1884, pages 371-392
Prehistoric Textile Fabrics Of The United States, Derived From Impressions On Pottery
Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1881-82, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1884, pages 393-425