When Takashi Amano was in his early 20s, he became interested in creating an aquatic layout using

rocks. So he studied Suiseki, the Japanese art of stone appreciation and Bonseki, the art of
creating miniature landscapes on a black lacquer tray art-forms passed forward through an entire
millenium. Neither could Amano escape the influence of the quintessential Japanese garden, in
which rocks are the bones of the entire layout, and of which it is said that once the rock formation
is placed properly, the rest of the layout will simply fall into place. These studies and his own
experiments aided him in establishing the Iwagumi style.
The first rock to be placed in an Iwagumi aquascape is the primary rock or largest rock, the Oyaishi,
and it is always placed off-centre, in accordance with the rule of thirds. It is also often slightly tilted
in the direction of the water flow, to give it more of a natural feel, as any tall flora will also move in
the same direction. After the Oyaishi, the second largest rock is placed, the Fukuishi. The Fukuishi is
placed on either the left, or right side of the Oyaishi, and its role is to balance out the Oyaishi and to
create tension a characteristic seen in all Iwagumi aquascapes. The third largest rock follows the
Fukuishi, the Soeishi. Again loosely following the rule of thirds, it is placed in a position that
accentuates the strength of the Oyaishi. The fourth largest rock is the Suteishi, and it is placed in an
area that compliments the entire rock formation, because its function is to assist in bringing all the
different rocks together, to form a whole. Despite its function, the Suteishi is not meant to stand
out from the rock formation as a whole. In fact, it is frequently hidden by flora, which is why it is also
known as the sacrificial stone.
Except for the Oyaishi, there can be several, or even many Fukuishi, Soeishi and Suteishi, with the
numbers of the particular type increasing as the rocks get smaller. The naming of the rocks based on
their sizes provides just a guideline to the Nature Aquarium aquascaper on how to produce an
Iwagumi aquascape that balances itself.
Fascinatingly, many people have an innate sense for this feeling of balance, while others just do not
have it, and need to follow the rules to attain it. It is always worth it to try arranging rock on your
own, to discover if you do, as this will also allow you to more easily break some rules. If you dont
you need to follow the guidelines.

The most basic of all Iwagumi is the Sanzon Iwagumi, or three-pillared rock formation. As suggested
by its name, only three rocks are used, the Oyaishi, the Fukuishi and the Soeishi. The Sanzon
Iwagumi is popular among nano aquascapers because it does not take up much space. Simple and
non-complicated, some of the best Iwagumi aquascapes are of the Sanzon Iwagumi style.

In an Iwagumi aquascape, the types of plants used in each aquascape is limited to a small number.
Low lying carpet flora such as Hemianthus callitrichoides or Glossostigma are extensively used, while
delicate flora such as Hairgrass or Vivipara are used selectively to bring into highlight certain parts of
the rock formation or to cushion the impact of the rock formation in a small aquarium. The aim of
using these plants is to create and then complete the impression of a well balanced rock formation
that stands on a beautiful field. It pays to keep a look-out for rock formations in nature, not only to
learn from the rock, but to see how natural plants have settled in amongst and around these rocky
structures.


THINK ABOUT THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN
What do I want to see?
One of the more difficult aspects of the Iwagumi Style is achieving visual balance throughout the
aquascape. Many aquascapers follow the rule of thirds, which divides the layout into three equal
segments from top to bottom, and from side to side. The focal point is placed where the different
vertical and horizontal lines intersect. Of course, this does not mean measuring our tanks millimetre
by millimetre. More-or-less accuracy will do. The point is that placing rocks in these areas adds
strength and focus to the aquascape.
The substrate, on the other hand, sets the foundation for the visual flow experienced by the viewer.
In Iwagumi aquascapes, the substrate is used to create contours and texture to keep the eye moving
and draw it into all aspects of the aquascape. A strategically planned substrate can also help create
an illusion of depth, for example by sloping upward from front to back. One could also have one side
of the aquarium substrate slightly higher than the other side. Each of these methods will add more
personality and depth to what initially seems like a simple design. Of course, the aim is that once the
substrate is covered with groundcover plants, it should create a sensation of fluidity and movement
by presenting the viewer with green rolling hills and/or valleys.
Simple and elegant, or complex and intricate?
As we already know, there are several different kinds of Iwagumi. In Sanzon Iwagumi three stones
are used: one larger stone and two smaller flanking stones that lean towards the larger one, almost
as if bowing to it. This is called Sanzon Iwagumi because the three stones are likened to Buddhist
triads. Sanzon Iwagumi has a very distinctive atmosphere: it is almost regal in its majestic elegance.
But not all Iwagumi have just three stones any number of stones can be used in an Iwagumi. While
three-stone Sanzon Iwagumi possess a striking, symbolic elegance, those with more stones have an
added element of complexity and intricacy.
Whilst there is no absolute rule about the maximum number of stones, it is best to use an odd
number 3, 5, 7 or 9 stones and so on. There is a reason for this!
When we do not have that innate, intuitive sense for arranging things so that they seem to have
balance, we have the tendency to arrange things in a stylised or symmetrical way which for the
natural scenes we wish to create is a very unnatural and un-beautiful way. It always amazes me
that we are naturally drawn to patterns of randomness, and even chaos, but that when we attempt
to create something beautiful we instinctively revert to taught, stylised patterns that we actually, if
we come to analyse it, find unattractive. Using an odd number of stones prevents this tendency, and
therefore helps to make the Iwagumi more attractive and natural. It also prevents the scape from
appearing to be split and disconnected with an even number of stones on either side.




However many stones you choose to use, they should consist of the same type of stone. This is
important, because it creates continuity and provides harmony for the entire layout.
Define Your Hardscape
When you start a layout you will need more than just enough hardscape material meaning that
you should collect extra rocks in case you change your design. This will also give you more options
when you begin to plan and build your scape. You also need different sized rocks to select from. And
you need to find rocks that have character, because the more folds, or nooks and crannies your
stones have the more detailed and complex your layout will appear.
The goal is thus to find a group of rocks that share the same type and colour scheme, but are
different in their individual details, patterns, shapes, and contours. Once arranged in an aquascape
the rocks will then appear as a unified collection with a clear focus, while each rock still maintains its
own distinct characteristics.
Thus, when selecting your stones, it is important to bear in mind their purpose within the
aquascape. So let us look once more at what is required for each rock.
Oyaishi The focal point
This is the primary stone in the layout. It should be the largest and most beautiful stone and must
have a striking character and form. The Oyashi or primary stone should be around 2/3 the height of
the aquarium, as this ratio appeals to the human eye.
In you aquascape, the Oyashi should be tilted. Whilst Oyashi in Japanese gardens tend to stand
upright, in aquascaping the stone is tilted to represent the flow of the water. (If the stone were in a
river, it would naturally be tilted because of the force of the water flow. In water, the tilt of the
Oyashi gives us the most natural and beautiful effect.
Fukuishi the secondary stone
This secondary stone should be the second largest and is placed on either the left or the right hand
side of the Oyaishi or primary stone. The Fukuishi should be similar in texture and must be the same
type of stone as the Oyaishi.


Soeishi The tertiary stone
The tertiary stone is placed next to the Oyaishi, along with the Fukuishi. The Soeshi plays an
important role in the flow of the Iwagumi, by bolstering the strength of the Oyaishi or by
accentuating its presence.
Suteishi the sacrificial stone
The Suteishi is a small stone that does not stand out in its own right, and may even become hidden
by plants over time. The Suteishi is meant to add an element of subtlety, intricacy and complexity to
the Iwagumi. The Suteishi can be omitted from the aquascape if you are creating a three-stone
Sanzon Iwagumi.
Helping or Throwaway stones
The basic stones of Iwugami are used in any number of combinations, and in larger, more intricate
scapes are often combined with Helping or Throwaway stones smaller nondescript rocks that
need not fit any of our formal definitions.
As in Japanese gardens, two and three stone groups are the norm and can be combined to create
larger (but not principal) focal points. If you have read about Japanese gardens, you will know that
there are five stone groups that are usually the main focus of a Japanese garden, often in the
guardian stone position. This is a very powerful grouping and needs careful balancing, should you
wish to attempt it.
Here are some ideas to inspire you:






LAYING OUT A TRADITIONAL IWAGUMI
At the end of this article, I will add a step-by-step image guide taken from an Amano lecture, in
which you can see how he goes about creating an aquascape.

For a traditional Iwagumi, lay an even layer of substrate across the floor of the aquarium. More
substrate will be added after the stones have been placed.If you work with large rocks, you may
want to place your stones on the bare bottom, so that they later appear embedded in the substrate.
Note: If you want a more complex and varied Iwagumi then the substrate can be laid more thickly at
the back or back corners of the aquarium.
Next, place the Oyaishi. It is important to place the Oyaishi first. Place it in accordance with the Rule
of Thirds so the stone should be about 2/3 the height of the aquarium and placed at a point that is
either 1/3rd or 2/3rd the front width of the aquarium away from the left or right wall and back
from the front wall around 2/3rd of the aquariums front to back depth.
Then arrange the remaining rocks in descending order of size, placing the largest first and the
smallest last: Fukuseki first, then Soeishi and finally Suteishi last. Pay attention to the balance of the
angles of the rocks to help you place the stones.
When you have a layout that you are happy with (and this may take a couple of attempts!), it is best
to leave the aquarium for a day or two so you can consider the layout for a while.
Finish the layout by using a cup, or container to carefully pour more substrate over it to mound the
substrate naturally. Let the substrate flow naturally between the stones. Finish with a layer of Aqua
Soil Powder for a fine effect.
PLANTING THE IWAGUMI
Aquatic plants soften the visual impact of the stones, so they are used to create a harmonious
balance within the aquascape. Since the Iwagumi style should give you a feeling of tranquility and
simplicity, a limited number of plant species are used.
An aquascape will usually consist of a single foreground plant like Eleocharis acicularis (Dwarf
hairgrass), Glossostigma elatinoides, and Hemianthus callitrichoides to name a few commonly used
species.
Low growing plants are used to accentuate the details of a rock arrangement and are thus planted
between the rocks, or next to them. Their placement is critical if you are to create a natural effect.
You must make sure that your low growing plants will not obscure the inherent structure of your
Iwagumi. Suggested plants include Hemianthus callitrichoides Cuba, Eleocharis parvula (hair grass),
Eleocharis acicularis Exceptional Value Range and Glossostigma elatinoides to name but a few.
The background should also only consist of one plant species, or at most two, and can vary based
upon the look and feel you want to obtain. Higher growing plants such as Eleocharis vivipara can be
used in the background of an Iwagumi to add depth and intricacy to the scape if desired. But
remember that the rocks are the focal point in an Iwagumi aquascape. So always use plants in such a
way that they that will not overpower the rock formation.
HARMONY WITH FAUNA
When selecting fish, you want to emphasise simplicity, harmony, and unity between the fauna and
the aquascape. You are looking for a meditative effect, not excitement. Too many fish species cause
discord and chaotic random movement among the fish, which distracts from the aquascape.
Instead use just a single species of schooling (not shoaling) fish to add fluid movement and
contentment to the aquascape. The most common used species are Cardinal tetras, Rummy nose
tetras, or Harlequin rasboras. It is important to use schooling fish and not shoaling fish. It is a
matter of harmony. Shoaling fish form loose groupings, in which each individual remains free to do
what it wants, often splitting off from the group. In contrast schooling fish will not only swim closely
together, they will form a very tight formation and will swim in a very synchronized manner. A
school of fish can perform very complicated manoeuvres such as changing direction or turning as a
whole. This behaviour is perfect for an Iwagumi Aquascape, as it helps to maintain a more tranquil
environment.
Shrimp like the Caridina japonica (Amano Shrimp) are most often used in the planted aquarium to
serve as an excellent clean up crew, without distracting the aquascape. Their small size and clear
coloration helps them blend well with the plants. Other shrimp varieties can be a distraction if they
are too colourful or too abundant.
IT IS NOT AS EASY AS IT LOOKS
Due to their simplistic look, it is a common misconception that Iwagumi style aquascapes are easy to
maintain. In fact, it is a more difficult style, mainly because the style involves only two or three plant
species, all of which require special attention. The plants mentioned previously are all heavy root
feeders, so dosing the water column should be done in moderation. It is much more important to
have a nutrient rich substrate to help these specific plants grow strong and healthy. Many hobbyists
overlook the importance of a nutrient rich substrate, and without it they may run into plant health
issues later, as the aquascape develops.
It is possible that your aquascape may fall victim to algae in the early stages, before the tank is
properly balanced. Be observant, and at the first sign of algae, immediately do a water change and
add floating plants to your tank, and possibly also some stem plants in mesh pots just resting on the
floor at the back. While this may temporarily change the feel of your aquascape, these helper plants
are great at mopping up the over-supply of nutrients in the water and they are infinitely better
than grabbing at the chemicals! Add enough to do the job, but do not shade the carpeting plants too
much. They still need light to grow. The latest scientific information lets us know that a lighting break
of about one hour over midday works wonders as an algae fighting tool. Apparently the plants do
not mind this break, but the algae cannot survive it. So add a timer to your lighting set-up!
Before we proceed to the step-by-step demonstration, I want to show you some inspirational
images, each of which is a totally different and individual take on Iwagumi.