Burda's Instruction A-D

FALL 2014 burdastyle.
com 67
project instructions
102-
082014-US
Long jacket
PATTERN AVAILABLE ON
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 32
Finished back length: 37
1
2" (95cm)
Materials
Crushed linen, 54" (137cm) wide, cut on
bias: size 36: 3
3
4yds (3.4m); size 38:
3
7
8yds ( 3.5m); size 40: 4yds (3.6m); size
42: 4
1
8yds (3.7m); size 44: 4
1
4yds
(3.80m)
Stretch lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 1
3
4yds
(1.6m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Read Burda Instructions (on page 64)
for general sewing guidelines and
introductory information.
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Note
different grainlines formain fabric and
lining on pieces 1 and 2. Trace pocket from
piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut
out all paper pieces. Cut the pocket pieces
ofmain fabric and lining on straight grain
(see cutting layouts).
Cutting
Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown
in cutting layouts and pin in place. Cut the
following numbered pieces:
Linen:
1front with integrated yoke, cut 2
1pocket piece, cut 2
2back, cut 2
3upper sleeve, cut 2
4under sleeve, cut 2
5collar, cut 2 as a bias piece (see layout)
6front facing, cut 2
7back facing, cut 1 on fold
a) 2 belt carriers, a total of 8" (20cm)
long, and 1
5
8" (4cm) wide, including seam
allowances
b) tie belt, a total of: size 36: 71"
(180cm); size 38: 72
3
4" (185cm); sizes
40, 42: 75" (190cm); size 44: 76
3
4"
(195cm) long, and 3
1
4" (8cm) wide,
excluding seam allowances
Lining:
1 front, cut 2 to lining line
1 pocket, cut 2
2 back, cut 2 to lining line
3 upper sleeve, cut 2
4 under sleeve, cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded area on pattern layout.
Fuse interfacing to undercollar piece. Also
interface hem allowances.
Construction
Stitch center back seam. Press seam
allowances open. Stitch back darts and
press toward center. Stitch front darts,
beginning exactly atmarked neck edge.
Cut darts open to within 1
1
4" (3cm) from
the point. Press darts open, pressing dart
points flat.
Stitch integrated back yokes of front
pieces to back. Press seam allowances
toward yokes. Stitch darts in front facings.
Stitch shoulder seams of facing. Press seam
allowances open.
Notched collar and front edges: With
right sides together, pin facing to jacket,
easing in a little extra fullness at lapel
corners. Stitch facing to front and lapel
edges, as far as seam mark. Leave facing
lying on jacket, right sides together, for
time being. Stitch collar pieces together
along outer edges, easing a little extra
fullness onto top collar and beginning and
ending stitching exactly at attachment
edge seamline. Turn collar right-side out.
Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch
undercollar to neck edge of jacket. Stitch
upper collar piece to facing. Press collar
attachment seam allowances open. Turn
facing to inside. Pin collar attachment
seams together exactly. Turn back facing
up and stitch seam allowances together,
close to collar attachment seam. Turn
facing down again.
Inseam pockets: With right sides
together, pin pocket pieces to seam
allowances of pocket opening edges
pocket lining in front and linen pocket in
back. Stitch linen pockets in place,
alongmarked seamline. Stitch pocket
lining pieces to seam allowances
1
4"
(6mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces
forward, trim evenly and stitch together.
Stitch side seams. Press seam
allowances open.
At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem
allowance to inside and hand-stitch in
place, leaving facing edges free.
Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2
Pattern pieces 1 to 7
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777
Cutting layouts
Crushed linen, 54" (137cm) wide
Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout, right sides together.
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide
Selvedges
Fold
F
o
l
d
Selvedges
Selvedges
NZ_BS1311_102T
BS_067-100_Instructions_Fall_14_FINAL.indd 67 7/21/14 6:07 PM
68 burdastyle.com FALL 2014
103-
082014-US
Jacket
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 50
Finished back length: 19" (48cm)
Sleeves: 6" (15cm) shorter than normal
Materials
Tweed, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 1
3
4yds
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: size 36: 1
1
8yd
(1m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 1
1
4yds I1.1m)
Interfacing
Notions: 8 buttons; 2 flat inside buttons
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-29 from pattern sheet. Cut
out all paper pieces.
Buttonholes and buttonmarkings on piece
21 are for size 36. For sizes 38 44,mark
top buttonhole same distance from neck
edge as for size 36. Bottom buttonhole is
same for all sizes. Center other buttonhole
exactly between.Mark new button
positions accordingly.
Cutting
and pin in place. Cut the following
numbered pieces:
Tweed:
21front, cut 2
22side, cut 2
23back, cut 1 on a fold
24sleeve front with yoke, cut 2
25sleeve back with yoke, cut 2
27collar, cut 2 on fold
a) 2 front hem bands: size 36: 11
1
4"
(29cm); size 38: 12" (30.5cm); size 40:
12
1
2" (31.5cm); size 42: 13" (33cm); size
44: 13
1
2" (34cm) long; 1 back hem band,
size 36: 19
1
2" (49.5cm); size 38: 20
1
2"
(52cm); size 40: 21
1
4" (54cm); size 42:
22
3
8" (56.5cm); size 44: 23
1
8" (58.5cm)
long, each 3
1
4" (8cm) wide, excluding
seam allowances
b) 2 sleeve bands: size 36: 13" (33cm);
size 38: 13
1
2" (34cm); size 40: 13
5
8"
(34.5cm); size 42: 13
3
4" (35cm); size 44:
14
1
4" (36cm) long, and 3
1
4" (8cm) wide,
Lining:
22 side, cut 2
23 back, cut 1 with
3
4" (2cm) center back
ease pleat
24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 to lining
line
25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2minus
neck facing
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.
Interface outer half of waistband and outer
half of each sleeve band.
Construction
Stitch side pieces to fronts and back,
easing fronts from to . Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch under sleeves to front and back
sleeve (seam numbers 3 and 4). Stitch
center seam on back yoke. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch front yokes to fronts from neck
edge to corner. Clip yoke seam allowances
into corners. Stitch sleeves to armhole
edges, from front corner to back corner
(seam number 5),matching seammarks 6.
Clip seam allowance of back yoke into
corners. Stitch back yoke to back from
corner to corner. Press seam allowances
toward yokes and toward sleeves above
underarm curves.
Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve
seams as continuous seams. Stitch facing
shoulder seams.
Gather lower sleeve edges tomatch
sleeve bands. Stitch ends of each sleeve
band together. With wrong sides
Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem
allowances to inside and hand-stitch in
place.
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.
With right sides together, fold belt
carrier strip lengthwise. Stitch
3
8" (1cm)
from folded edge. Turn strip right-side out
and cut into 2 equal length pieces. Turn
ends of belt carriers under to a finished
length of 2
3
4" (7cm). Stitch belt carriers to
jacket asmarked.
Sew lining: On lining backs, stitch
center back seam allowances together.
Stitch darts and seams. Set in sleeve
linings.
Line jacket; hem: With right sides
together, stitch lining to inside facing
edge,matching yoke attachment seams
to seammarks on back facing. With
wrong sides together, lay lining in jacket,
pulling linings into sleeves. Turn lining
hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch
in place. Turn edges of sleeve linings
under and hand-stitch to hem allowance.
Lay extra length down and press.
With right sides together, fold tie belt
lengthwise. Trim each end at an angle.
Stitch edges together, leaving an opening
for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew
seam opening closed.
Green pattern line, sheets A1-A2
Size 36 AAAAA
Size 38 ===
Size 40 CCC
Size 42 67 67
Size 44 EEEEE
Cutting layout
Tweed, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Cut from a double layer of fabric,
right sides together.
Selvedges
Fold
NZ_BS1309_103T
FALL 2014 burdastyle.com 69
103.1-
082014-US
Coat
PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1k9sLFD
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 61
Finished back length: 38" (97 cm)
Materials
Boucl, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 2
3
4
yds (2.5 m); sizes 38, 40: 2
7
8 yds (2.6 m);
sizes 42, 44: 3 yds (2.65 m)
Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40:
2 yds (1.8 m); sizes 42, 44: 2
5
8 yds (2.4 m)
Interfacing
Notions: 6 large sew-on snap fasteners
Preparation
Trace pieces 1, 3, 4-6, 10, and 11 from
pattern sheet. Trace front yoke with
integrated sleeve up to band attachment
line. Cut out all paper pieces.
Snap fasteners marked on piece 10 are for
size 36. For sizes 38 44, mark top snap
same distance from neck edge as for size
36. Bottom snap is same for all sizes.
Space other snaps evenly between.
Front lining piece: Lay pieces 3 and 4
together; this creates a small space at side
edge which will become a small pleat. See
pattern layout.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Boucl:
1front yoke with sleeve, cut 2
3upper front, cut 2
4lower front, cut 2
5back yoke with sleeve, cut 2
6back, cut 2
10front band with self-facing, cut 2
a) 2 pocket pieces, 6
3
8" 6
3
8"(16 16 cm)
Lining:
1 front yoke with sleeve, cut 2 to lining
line
3, 4 upper and lower front, cut 2 to lining
line
5 back yoke with sleeve, cut 2 minus neck
facing
6 back, cut 2
a) 2 pocket pieces, 6
3
8" 6
3
8" (16 16 cm)
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout.
Also interface hem allowances.
Construction
With right sides together, pin each
pocket lining piece to pocket opening
edge of lower front piece. Stitch to seam
allowance,
1
4" (6 mm) from seamline.
Press pocket pieces up and understitch
close to attachment seams. With right
sides together, lay each boucl pocket
piece on upper fronts between markings.
Stitch to seam allowances
3
16" (5 mm)
from seamline. Press pocket pieces down.
Stitch upper fronts to lower fronts,
leaving pocket openings free. Press seam
allowances open and press pocket pieces
down. Trim pocket pieces evenly and stitch
edges together.
Stitch center seams on back and back
yoke. Press seam allowances open.
Yokes with integrated sleeves: Stitch
each front yoke with sleeve to front piece,
from seam number 6 to corner. Clip seam
allowances of front yokes into corners.
Stitch sleeve fronts to front armhole edges.
Stitch back yoke with sleeves to back, from
corner to corner. Clip seam allowance of
yoke into corners. Stitch sleeve backs to
back armhole edges. Press seam
allowances of yoke attachment seams
open. Press seam allowances of sleeve
attachment seams toward sleeves.
Stitch side seams and lower sleeve
seams as continuous seams. Stitch
shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as
continuous seams. Press seam allowances
open.
Press sleeve hem allowances to inside
and hand-stitch in place.
Stitch front bands to fronts. Press seam
allowances open.
Neck edge: Turn self-facings to outside
and stitch to back facing. With right sides
together, stitch facing to neck edge. Trim
seam allowances diagonally across front
together, fold and press sleeve bands in
half. Stitch sleeve band edges together to
lower sleeve edges,matching sleeve band
seams to lower sleeve seams. Press seam
allowances up.
On hem band, stitch side seams. Stitch
hem band to lower jacket edge. Press seam
allowances open.
On lining back, baste ease pleat. Press
pleat to one side and baste to upper and
lower edges. Stitch lining seams. Gather
lower edge of sleeve lining. With right
sides together, stitch lining to inside jacket
facing edge. Press seam allowances toward
lining.
With right sides together, pin facing
and lining to jacket. Fold hem band half to
outside and stitch inside hem band edges
to lower facing edges (not to lining), right
sides together. Clip seam allowance of
waistband
3
8" (1cm) from inside facing
edge. Press seam allowances open toward
front edge. Stitch along front waistband
ends, front edges, and neck edges, up to
seammark. Leave facing and lining lying
on jacket, right sides together, for the time
being.
With right sides together, stitch collar
pieces along outer edges, beginning and
ending exactly at seamline on attachment
edge. Turn collar right-side out and press.
Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch
undercollar to neck edge of jacket and
stitch top collar to facing. Press seam
allowances of collar attachment seams
open. Turn facing and lining to inside and
turn hem band right side out. Pin collar
attachment seams together. Reach
between outer fabric and lining to grasp
collar attachment seam allowances and
pull them out. Stitch seam allowances
together close to seams. Push collar
attachment seams in place again. Lay
inside hem band edge flat over attachment
seam. Stitch from right side along
attachment seam, catching inner edge.
Pull sleeve linings into jacket sleeves. At
each sleeve seam, turn lining edge under
and pin to sleeve band attachment seam
with a single straight pin. Reach between
outer fabric and lining to first pull out
lower edges of one sleeve. Remove pin but
hang on to edges. With right sides
together, stitch lower edges of sleeve and
lining together. From jacket right side, pull
sleeve out and sleeve lining into jacket
sleeve. Stitch lining of other sleeve in
samemanner.
Turn open lining edge under and sew to
waistband attachment seam.
Stitch buttonholes in right front. On left
front, stitch top buttonhole for inside
button. Stitch a buttonhole in each end of
hem band, for inside button on the left.
Lay jacket closed,matching center fronts.
Sew buttons in place, tomatch
buttonholes and asmarked.
lengthwise and stitch across bottom. Turn
right-side out. Lay underlap under left
opening edge and pin to facing. Stitch
facing to underlap, close to zipper
attachment seam. Lay opening closed
again and topstitch to end, catching
underlap.
Waistband and center back seam: Stitch
outer waistband pieces to upper trouser
edge. Leave right waistband end extending
from center front. Stitch left waistband to
underlap and leave remainder
extending. Press seam allowances of
attachment seams toward waistband
pieces. With right sides together, lay inside
waistband pieces on attached waistband
pieces and stitch upper edges together.
Turn inside waistband pieces up and
understitch close to seam. Trim extending
right waistband end
3
8" (1cm) before
center front. Attach trouser hook to inside
waistband piece
3
8" (1cm) from right
waistband end. Stitch center back seam on
trousers and waistband. Press seam
allowances open from upper edge to
beginning of crotch curve. Do not press
seam allowances flat along curve. At front
waistband ends, lay inside waistband on
outside waistband and turn seam
allowance on inside waistband edge up.
Stitch across waistband ends. Turn
waistband right-side out. Turn in underlap
edges and sew together. Turn inside
waistband edge under for 1
5
8" (4cm)
long, and baste, then lay remaining edge
flat over attachment seam. From trouser
right side, stitch along attachment seam,
catching inside waistband edge. Attach
fastener bar to waistband, tomatch hook
location. Stitch buttonhole in left
waistband end for inside button.
Press hem allowances to inside and
hand-stitch in place.
104-
082014-US
Coat
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1lHaVGz
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 51
Materials
Tweed, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36, 38:
3
1
8yds (2.8m); size 40: 3
1
4yds (2.85m);
103B-
082014-US
Trousers
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1nwQ0bG
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 42
Finished side length including waistband:
41
3
4" (106cm)
Waistband sits
3
8" (1cm) below natural
waistline
Leg hem circumference: 24
1
2" (62cm)
Materials
Jacquard, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size 36:
1
7
8yds (1.65m); size 38, 40, 42, 44:
2
1
4yds (2m)
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper: sizes 36, 38, 40: 5"
(12cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14cm) long; 1
trouser hook fastener; 1 flat inside button
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet.
Lengthen piece 21 as indicated. Trace
pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate
pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.
Stitching line at zipper opening ismarked
for size 36. For sizes 38 44,mark stitching
line same distance from center front as for
size 36, noting length of opening.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Jacquard:
21front trouser, cut 2
21 pocket, cut 4
22back trouser, cut 2
23waistband, cut 4
a) left underlap: sizes 36, 38, 40: 5"
(12.5cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14.5cm) long,
and 3" (7cm) wide, excluding seam
allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.
Construction
Stitch back darts and press toward
center. Stitch forward side seams, leaving
pocket openings free. Press seams open.
In-seam pockets: With right sides
allowances on inside of pocket opening
edges. Stitch in place directly alongmarked
seamlines. Above pocket openings, stitch
pocket pieces close to seam. Press pocket
pieces forward and stitch edges together.
Baste upper pocket edges in place. At each
end of each pocket opening, make a few
stitches horizontally.
Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch center
front seam from openingmark to inside
leg seam.
Insert zipper: Press self-facings on
opening edges to inside. On the right,
stitch along center front and on left,
stitch
3
16" (5mm) before center front.
Topstitch close to right opening edge.
Stitch zipper under left opening edge
(underlap), close to teeth. Pin opening
closed,matching center fronts. Stitch
loose zipper tape to right facing, leaving
trouser piece free. Baste facing in place.
Topstitch opening from upper edge to
1
1
4" (3cm) before end asmarked. With
right sides together, fold underlap piece
corners. At neck edge, turn facing up and
understitch as far as possible close to
seam. Turn facing to inside and press
edges.
Fold small pleat in each front lining
piece and baste. Stitch lining seams.
Sew in lining; hem: With right sides
edge. With wrong sides together, lay
lining inside coat, pulling linings into
sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside and
hand-stitch in place. Turn lining edge
under along hem edge and press fold
lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve
and pin to hem allowance. Sew facings
and lining in place. Lay extra lining length
down and press lightly. On each sleeve,
turn lining edge under and hand-stitch to
hem allowance. Lay extra length down
and press.
Stitch front coat edges along lines of
band attachment seams.
Cover snap fastener halves with lining
fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew
top halves of snaps to right front facing
as marked, not exiting needle on right
fabric side. Lay coat closed, matching
center fronts. Mark placement of bottom
halves of snaps on left front band. Sew
bottom halves of snaps in place. Close
pocket openings with one snap each.
Inseam pockets: With right sides together,
pin pocket pieces to seam allowances of
pocket opening edges, pinning pocket lining
pieces to fronts and tweed pocket pieces to
side pieces. Stitch pocket pieces in place,
directly alongmarked seamlines. Press
pocket pieces forward and stitch edges
together.
Stitch sides to back. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch under sleeves to front and back
sleeves (seam numbers 3 and 4). Stitch
center back yoke seam. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch front yokes to fronts, from neck
edge to corner. Clip yoke seam allowances
into corners. Stitch sleeves to armhole
edges, from front corner to back corner
(seam number 5),matching seammarks.
Clip back yoke seam allowance into
corners. Stitch back yoke to back, from
corner to corner. Press seam allowances
toward yokes and toward sleeves above
underarm curve.
seams as continuous seams. Stitch facing
shoulder seams. Press seam allowances
open.
Press sleeve hem allowances to inside
and hand-stitch in place.
With right sides together, pin facing to
coat. Stitch along front and neck edges, up
to seammark. Leave facing lying on coat,
right sides together, for time being.
With right sides together, stitch outer
collar edges, beginning and ending exactly
at seamline on attachment edge. Turn
collar right-side out and press. Lay collar
between coat and facing. Stitch
undercollar to coat neck edge and stitch
top collar to facing. Press seam allowances
open. Turn facing to inside. Press front
edges. Pin collar attachment seams
together. In back, turn facing up again and
understitch close to collar attachment
seam. Turn facing down.
At hem edge, unfold facing. Press hem
allowance to inside, then turn down again.
On lining back, stitch ease pleat at top
and bottom, each 2" (5cm) long, and
baste between. Press pleat to one side.
Stitch lining seams.
Line coat; hem: With right sides
edges. With wrong sides together, lay
lining inside coat, pulling linings into
sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside and
hand-stitch in place. Turn lining under
along hem edge and press folded edge
sizes 42, 44: 3
3
8yds (3m)
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38:
2
1
4yds (2.05m); size 40: 2
1
2yds (2.2m);
sizes 42, 44: 2
5
8yds (2.25m)
Interfacing
Notions: 8 buttons; 2 flat inside buttons
Preparation
Lengthen pieces 21, 23, and 28 as
indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece
21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all
pattern pieces.
Buttonholes and buttonmarkings on
piece 21 are for size 36. For sizes 38
44,mark top buttonhole the same
distance from neck edge as for size 36.
Bottom buttonhole is at the same location
for all sizes.Mark remaining buttonholes
between.Mark new button positions
accordingly.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Tweed:
21front, cut 2
21 pocket, cut 2
22side, cut 2
23back, cut 1 on fold
24sleeve front with yoke, cut 2
25sleeve back with yoke, cut 2
Lining:
21 pocket, cut 2
22 side, cut 2
23 back, cut 1 with
3
4" (2cm) center back
ease pleat
24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 to lining
line
25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2minus
neck facing
Interfacing:
Also interface hem allowances.
Construction
Stitch side pieces to fronts, easing
fronts from to . Leave pocket openings
free. Press seam allowances open.
104B-
082014-US
Dress
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1tqUSCR
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 43
Finished length from waist: 25
3
4" (65cm)
Materials
Washed crpe satin, 54" (137 cm): sizes
36, 38, 40: 3yds (2.7m); sizes 42, 44:
3
1
8yds (2.75m)
Interfacing
Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Tape
pieces 1 and 1a together as marked and
lengthen as indicated. Lengthen piece 2 as
indicated. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Washed crpe satin:
1front with sleeves, cut 1
2back with sleeve, cut 2
3side, cut 2
4lower sleeve, cut 2
5back neck facing, cut 2
Interfacing:
On front piece, fuse a strip 12
3
4" (32 cm)
long and 1" (2.5 cm) wide to wrong side
of fabric, over pleat stitching line, up to
pleat fold. Fuse small pieces of interfacing
to wrong side of fabric, over corners
lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and
pin to coat hem allowance. Sew facings
and lining in place. Lay extra length of
lining down and press lightly. Turn edges
of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to
hem allowances. Lay extra length of sleeve
linings down and press.
Stitch buttonholes in right front. On left
front, stitch top and bottom buttonholes
for inside buttons. Sew buttons in place,
tomatch buttonholes asmarked.
Materials
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
1
3
8yds (1.2m) for all sizes
Interfacing
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace
the facing from pieces 1 and 2 as separate
pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Stretch jersey:
1right front skirt, cut 1
1 right side front facing, cut 1
2left front skirt, cut 1
2 left side front facing, cut 1
3back skirt, cut 2
4front facing, cut 1 on fold
5back facing, cut 2
Interfacing:
Construction
Stitch front and back darts. Press darts
toward centers.
With right sides together, pin side front
facings to corresponding front skirt panels.
Beginning at side seam edge, stitch
alongmarked seamline. Trim seam
allowances. Turn facings over seam
allowances and understitch close to seams.
Turn facings to inside and press edges.
Baste facings to side seam edges.
With wrong side facing right side
andmatching center fronts, lay right skirt
front over left skirt front. Baste together
along upper and side edges.
Sew invisible zipper at center back
opening (see instructions on page 66).
Stitch center back seam from lower edge
to zipper. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch side seams on skirt and facing.
Upper skirt edge: With right sides
together, pin facing to upper skirt edge. At
zipper opening, turn facing ends back
3
16"
(5mm) before opening edge, and pin to
upper edge. Turn seam allowances on skirt
opening edges to outside and pin to upper
skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper
skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at
105A-
082014-US
Skirt
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 50
Finished length: 23
3
4" (60cm)
between front/back and sleeves. Also fuse
strips
3
4" (2 cm) wide to wrong side of
zipper opening edges.
Construction
On front, lay pleat in direction of arrow
and baste. Press pleat fold. Topstitch as
marked. Remove basting.
Side pieces and lower sleeve pieces:
Stitch side pieces to front piece, from
corner (seam number 1) and to back
pieces, from corners (seam number 2). Clip
seam allowances of front and back into
corners. Stitch lower sleeve pieces to
integrated sleeves of front and back (seam
numbers 3 and 4). Press seams open.
Stitch lower sleeve pieces to armhole
edges of side pieces, from corner to
corner, matching seam marks.
With right sides together, stitch back
neck facings to neck edges of back pieces.
Trim seam allowances. Turn facings up and
understitch close to seams. Turn facings to
inside. Press edges. Baste facing ends in
place.
Sew invisible zipper to center back
opening edges (see instructions on page
66). Begin at neck edge and leave ends of
zipper tapes extending at the top. Stitch
center back seam from lower edge to
zipper. Turn upper ends of zipper tapes
under and sew to neck edge, together
with seam allowances.
Turn the dress wrong side out. On front
self facing, finish inside edge. With right
sides together, pin back shoulder edges to
front shoulder edges. Lay self-facing of
front over the back and pin side facing
ends to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder
seams and upper sleeve seams as
forward. Turn dress right-side out. Turn
front facing to inside.
Press hem allowances on dress and
sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place.
Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777
Cut from a single layer of fabric, right
side up. Lay the asymmetric front skirt
pieces on the right side of the fabric,
with printed pattern side up. Lay the
side facings on the right side of the
fabric with their printed side down.
Cut right and left pieces as opposites.
Cutting layout
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Selvedge
Selvedge
opening edges to inside. Turn facing up
and understitch as far as possible close to
seam. Turn facing to inside, and hand-
stitch to zipper tapes and seams.
place. Turn facings to inside again. Loosely
hand-stitch inside facing edges in place.
Sew facings to hem.
NZ_BS1309_105AT
106-
082014-US
Skirt
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 52
Finished length: 23
3
4" (60cm)
Materials
Silk satin, 60" (152.5cm) wide: 1
5
8yds
Interfacing
Preparation
the facing from piece 2 as a separate
pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Silk satin:
1right front skirt, cut 1
2left front skirt, cut 1
2 left side front facing, cut 1
3back skirt, cut 2
5back facing, cut 2
6 godet, cut 1 on fold
Interfacing:
Construction
toward centers.
With right sides together, pin side front
facing to left front skirt panel. Beginning
at side seam edge, stitch alongmarked
seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn
facing over seam allowances and
understitch close to seam. Turn facing to
inside and baste to side seam edge. Press
faced edge.
With right sides together, fold godet on
foldline. Stitch lower edges together. Trim
seam allowances. Turn godet right-side out.
Press lower edge but do not press folded
edge. Baste open edges together. Stitch
godet to right skirt front, from seam
number 2 (side seam allowance and hem
allowance of skirt piece extend). Trim godet
attachment seam allowances to
1
4" (6mm)
wide, neaten edges together, and press
away from godet. With wrong side facing
right side, lay right skirt front over left skirt
frontmatching center fronts. Baste together
along upper and side edges.
Sew invisible zipper at center back
opening (see instructions on page 66).
Stitch center back seam from lower edge
Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777
side up. Lay the asymmetric front skirt
pieces on the right side of the fabric,
with printed pattern side facing up. Lay
the side facing on the right side of the
fabric printed side down. Cut right and
left pieces as opposites.
Cutting layout
Silk satin, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Selvedge
Selvedge
NZ_BS1309_106T
to zipper. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch side seams, leaving godet free at
left side seam. Stitch side seams of facing.
Press seam allowances open.
Upper skirt edge: With right sides
together, pin facing to upper skirt edge. At
zipper opening, turn facing ends back
3
16"
(5mm) before opening edge, and pin to
upper edge. Turn seam allowances on skirt
opening edges to outside and pin to upper
skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper
skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at
opening edges to inside. Turn facing up
and understitch as far as possible close to
seam. Turn facing to inside, and hand-
stitch to zipper tapes and seams.
At hem edge, unfold facing. Press hem
place. At godet attachment seam, turn
edge under and sew in place. Turn facing
to inside again and sew in place over hem.
Topstitch
1
4" (6mm) from faced edge.
108-
082014-US
Top
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 57
1
2" (85cm)
Sleeves: 1
1
4" (3cm) longer than normal
Materials
Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide,
with a pattern repeat of 36" (90cm): 3
5
Alternative: Solid stretch jersey, 60"
(152.5cm) wide: 3
1
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; twin
sewingmachine needle
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-23, and 25 from pattern
sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.
Seam and hem allowances
Seams and edges:
3
8" (1cm); hem and
sleeve hems: 1
5
8" (4cm)
109-
082014-US
Bustier
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 56
3
4" (12cm)
Extra pattern, shaded pink
Sheet A1-A2, pieces 1 to 6
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Fine stretch jersey:
21center front, cut 1 on fold
22 center back, cut 1 on fold
23side piece with sleeve, cut 2
Fusible bias stay tape:
Fuse to back shoulder seam edges.
Construction
Note: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with
a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or
with a serger. Stitch hems with a
twinmachine needle to keep them flexible.
Front and back section seams: With
right sides together, lay side pieces with
sleeve onto center front. Pin front section
seam from seam number 1 to hem edge.
Stitch seams. Pin remaining edges of side
and sleeve pieces to side edges of center
back (seam number 2). Stitch seams.
Neaten edges together and press toward
centers.
Shoulder seams and upper sleeve
seams: With right sides together, lay center
Cutting layouts
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide
with pattern repeat
Selvedge
Selvedge
without pattern repeat
Cut from a single layer
of fabric, right side up.
Cut right and left pieces
as opposites.match
patterns if applicable.
Selvedge
Selvedge
NZ_BS1310_109T
Red pattern line, sheets C1-C2
Pattern pieces 21 to 23 and 25
Size 36 AAAAA
Size 38 ===
Size 40 CCC
Size 42 67 67
Size 44 EEEEE
NZ_BS1310_108T
front on center back, folding sleeves
lengthwise. Stitch shoulder and sleeve as
continuous seam beginning atmarked
sleeve hem line, angle stitching to outer
edge. Neaten seam allowances together
and press toward back.
Stitch center back seam on collar. Press
seam allowances open. With wrong sides
together, fold collar on foldline. Stitch
attachment edges of collar together to
neck edge. Trim seam allowances to
1
4"
(6mm), neaten edges together, and press
toward collar.
Turn hem allowances on top and
sleeves to wrong side. From right side, use
twinmachine needle to stitch hems 1
1
4"
(3cm) from lower edges.
111-
082014-US
Top
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1jbAOfZ
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42
on page 30
Finished back length of top: 28
3
4" (73cm)
Shrug sleeves: 3" (7cm) longer than normal
Materials
Fine jersey for top and shrug (made in one
fabric), 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38:
2
1
8yds (1.9cm); sizes 40, 42: 2
1
4yds (2m)
Fine jersey for the top, 60" (152.5cm)
wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 1yd (.9m); sizes
40, 42: 1
1
8yd (.95m)
Fine jersey for shrug, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
sizes 34, 36, 38: 1
1
8yd (1m); sizes 40, 42:
1
1
4yds (1.05m)
Notions: Fusible stay tape, twin sewing
machine needle
Preparation
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); hem and
sleeve hems: 2" (5cm)
Materials
Stretch gabardine, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
1yd (.9m) for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 1yd
(.9m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 1
1
8yd (1m)
Interfacing
Notions: Boning,
1
2" (1.3cm) wide:
1
2yd
(.4m); hook-and-eye tape:
1
2yd (.4m);
elastic,
1
4" (6 mm) wide: sizes 34, 36: 34"
(.85m); size 38: 1yd (.9m); sizes 40, 42:
40" (1m); size 44: 42" (1.05m);
glue stick
Preparation
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide,
Sizes 38 44
Cutting layouts
Gabardine, 60" (152.5cm) wide,
Sizes 34 44
Lining, 54" (137cm)cm wide,
Sizes 34, 36
BS1310_109WS_Z
Selvedges
Fold
BS1310_109WS_Z
Fold
Selvedges
BS1310_109WS_Z
Selvedges
F
o
l
d
Fold
Selvedges Selvedges
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Stretch gabardine:
1 center front, cut 2
2 side front, cut 2
3 center back cut 2
4 side back, cut 2
5 front peplum, cut 2
6 back peplum, cut 2
Lining and interfacing:
Cut same as for gabardine. Fuse interfacing
to corresponding gabardine pieces.
Construction
See detailed instructions for style 109-
082014-US on Sew This! on page 106 of
themagazine.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Top:
21front, cut 1 on fold
a) back neck edge facing strip, size 34:
8
3
8" (21cm); sizes 36, 38: 8
3
4" (22cm);
sizes 40, 42: 9
1
5
8"
(4cm) wide, including seam allowances
Shrug:
23back with integrated sleeve, cut 2
Fuse to wrong side of armhole edges and
back neck edge of top, and to wrong side
of neck and lower edges of shrug.
Construction
Note: Stitch seams on stretch fabrics with a
special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or
with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin
sewingmachine needle to keep them
flexible.
Top
With wrong sides together, fold and
press facing strip for back neck edge
lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to back
neck edge so that folded edge lies on
garment piece
3
8" (1cm) past seamline.
Stitch along neck edge seamline. Trim
seam allowances. Turn facing strip to
inside and press edge. Topstitch
1
4" (6mm)
from neck edge.
With right sides together, baste back
shoulder edges to front shoulder edges.
Turn self-facing of front over back on
foldline, and pin to shoulder edges. Stitch
shoulder seams. Pull back out of front. Lay
facing on front. Press shoulder seams, but
do not press neck edge fold. Baste facing
to armhole edges.
On each armhole edge, press seam
allowance to inside and turn edge under.
From right side, use twin needle to stitch
1
4" (6mm) from armhole edge.
Stitch side seams. Trim seam
allowances, neaten together, and press
toward back. Hand-stitch top ends of seam
allowances in place.
Fold hem allowance to inside and turn
edge under. From right side, use twin needle
to stitch 1" (2.5cm) from lower edge.
Shrug
Stitch center back seam. Trim seam
allowances, neaten together and press to
one side.
112-
082014-US
Dress
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1tqTfoG
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 53
3
4" (83cm)
Materials
Rayon challis, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size
36: 2
1
2yds (2.2m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44:
2
3
4yds (2.5m)
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; elastic,
3
4"
(1cm) wide: size 36:
1
2yd (.4m); sizes 38,
40 ,42, 44:
5
8yd (.5m); 3 small buttons
Preparation
Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Tape
pieces 1 and 1A together asmarked. Cut
Loopmarking on piece 1 is for size 36. For
other sizes,movemarking same distance
from neck edge as for size 36.
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); skirt
attachment seam:
3
4" (2cm); hem:
5
8"
(1.5cm); sleeve hems: 1
5
8" (4cm)
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Rayon challis:
2side front, cut 2
3upper back, cut 2
4lower back, cut 2
111.1-
082014-US
Jacket
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1gUV2R6
Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44
on page 49
Finished back length: 35" (88 cm)
Materials
Sweater knit, 54" (137 cm) wide: size
34/36: 3
1
8 yds (2.8 m); sizes 38/40 and
42/44: 3
1
4 yds (2.9 m)
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape
Preparation
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Sweater knit:
21front, cut 2
23sleeve, cut 2
24front band, cut 4
25back neck band, cut 2 on fold
26sleeve band, cut 2
27pocket, cut 2
a) hem band: size 34/36: 41" (104 cm);
size 38/40: 44
1
4" (112 cm); size 42/44:
47
1
4" (120 cm) long, and 3
1
2" (9 cm)
wide, excluding seam allowances
b) 2 sleeve cuff bands: size 34/36: 7
1
2"
(19 cm); size 38/40: 8" (20 cm); size
42/44: 8
3
8" (21 cm) long, and 8" (20 cm)
c) 2 belt carriers, a total of 6
3
4" (17 cm)
long, and 1
5
8" (4 cm) wide, including
seam allowances
d) tie belt, a total of: size 34/36: 61" (155
cm); size 38/40: 65" (165 cm); size 42/44:
69" (175 cm) long, and 3
1
2" (9 cm) wide,
including seam allowances
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout.
Interface outer band pieces. Fuse bias stay
tape to wrong side of front shoulder
edges.
Construction
Stitch shoulder seams on jacket, on
interfaced band, and on un-interfaced
band. Press seams open.
Stitch sleeve band pieces to sleeves
(seam number 4). Neaten seam allowances
together and press toward bands. Stitch
sleeve bands to armhole edges. Press seam
allowances toward bands.
seams as continuous seams. Press seam
allowances toward back.
Wrong sides together, fold band in half
lengthwise and press. Stitch hem band
edges together to lower edge of fronts
and back, stretching slightly to match.
Press seam allowances up.
Stitch interfaced outer band to hem
band, fronts, and back. Match seam mark
on band to hem band attachment seam.
Press allowances of hem band toward band.
Above hem band, press seam allowances
open, tapering allowance of front as you
press. With right sides together, lay inside
band on attached band. Stitch along front
and neck edges. Stitch across bottom band
ends. Trim seam allowances. Turn band
right-side out. Lay inside band edge flat
over attachment seam and baste in place.
At hem band, turn inside band edge under
and hand-stitch in place (taper seam
allowance as you press to inside). From
jacket right side, stitch along attachment
seam, catching inner band edge.
Stitch seam on each sleeve band. Wrong
sides together, fold sleeve band in half and
press. Stitch sleeve band edges together to
lower sleeve edge, stretching sleeve band to
fit. Press seam allowances up.
Patch pockets: Press self-facing on each
pocket upper edge to wrong side. Loosely
hand-stitch inside facing edge in place.
Press seam allowances on side and lower
edges to inside. Pin pockets to jacket at
placement lines and hand-stitch in place.
Belt carriers: With right sides together,
fold strip for belt carriers lengthwise. Stitch
Press seam allowances on neck and
lower edges to inside and turn edges
under. From right side, use twin needle to
stitch
1
4" (6mm) from each edge.
Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 3).
Press sleeve hem allowances to inside,
turn in, and stitch in place using twin needle.
3
8" (1 cm) from folded edge. Turn right-
side out. Cut into 2 equal lengths. Pin belt
carriers to jacket as marked, turn in ends,
and sew in place.
Fold tie belt lengthwise, right sides
together. Stitch edges together, leaving an
opening for turning. Turn right-side out.
Sew opening closed.
5flounce, cut 2
6sleeve, cut 2
a) bias strip for 3 loops: 6" (15cm) long,
and
3
allowances
Interfacing:
Construction
Stitch center seams on upper and lower
back pieces. Press seam allowances open.
On front and upper back pieces, cut
along center of upper darts to
3
4" (2cm)
before point. Gather lower dart edges
between asterisks. Stitch darts. Trim dart
seam allowances to
1
4" (6mm) wide,
neaten edges together, and press up.
Stitch shoulder seams on dress bodice
and facing. Press seams open.
With right sides together, fold bias strip
for loops lengthwise. Stitch
1
8" (3mm)
from folded edge. Turn right-side out. Do
not press fabric tube flat. Cut fabric tube
into 3 equal lengths and form loops.
Front slit and neck edge: With right
sides together, pin facing to neck edge
over marked center front slit. From wrong
side, stitch closely around marked slit, on
right side of slit leaving seam open
between neck edge and seam mark. Stitch
across bottom of slit, then continue
stitching along marked neck edge. Slash
slit between stitching lines and clip
diagonally into bottom corners. On neck
edge, trim seam allowances, trimming
diagonally across corners. On right slit
edge, lay loop between front and facing.
Slide ends of loop through opening and
pin to slit edge; loop size must match
button. Sew seam opening closed. Turn
facing to inside and press edges. Hand-
stitch inside facing edge to seams.
Stitch upper back to front (seam
number 2). Stitch lower back to side fronts
(seam number 3).
Stitch center back flounce seam. Stitch
flounce to lower edge of side fronts and
lower back (seam number 4). Press seam
allowances up.
On front, cut along center of small dart
at corner between vertical and horizontal
section seams, to 1
1
4" (3cm) before point.
Stitch side fronts to front, from seam
number 5 to seammark. Clip front seam
allowance at seammark. Stitch flounce to
front below seammark. Press seam
allowances open.
Gather lower edge of front and upper
back between asterisks. Stitch horizontal
section seam on each side stitching from
center back toward the front, then continue
stitching to stitch small darts in front. Press
seam allowances down and stitch as
marked to form elastic casings. Cut elastic
into 2 equal pieces. Insert elastic into
casings and stitch ends in place, for a
finished length of: size 36: 7
1
8" (18cm);
size 38: 7
1
2" (19cm); size 40: 8" (20cm);
size 42: 8
3
8" (21cm); size 44: 8
3
4" (22cm).
Finish hem edge: Press hem allowance
to wrong side. From fabric right side, stitch
along folded edge with a short, closely
spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim
hem allowance close to stitching.
Sleeve with sleeve vents: Baste loops to
front sleeve vent edges asmarked. Turn
sleeve hem allowances to outside and stitch
to vent edges, exactly tomarked end of
vent. Turn hem allowance upper edge back
and pin. Stitch sleeve seam from upper edge
to slitmark. Turn hem allowance to inside,
press, and hand-stitch in place.
Set in sleeves, gathering sleeve caps.
113-
082014-US
Top
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 48
Sleeves: 1
5
Materials
Knit lace, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36,
38, 40: 1
5
8yds (1.4m) sizes 42, 44:
1
3
4yds (1.45m)
Small piece of lightweight woven fabric for
bias strips, 14" 16" (35 40cm)
Notions: Twin sewingmachine needle
Preparation
Cutting
Cutting layout
Knit lace, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Fold fabric as shown in the cutting
layoutright sides together on a double
layer; right side up on a single layer. Cut
right and left sleeves as opposites.
Selvedge
Selvedge
Fold
Blue pattern line, sheets D1-D2
Pattern pieces 1 and 2
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777
NZ_1309_113T
numbered pieces:
Knit lace:
1front and back, cut 1 on fold
2sleeve, cut 2
Woven fabric:
Bias strip for neck edge, a total of: size 36:
24
3
4" (63cm); size 38: 25
1
4" (64cm); size
40: 25
3
4" (65cm); size 42: 26" (66cm);
size 44: 26
1
5
8"
Construction
Note: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a
special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a
serger. Stitch hem allowances with a
twinmachine needle to keep them flexible.
Stitch sleeves to front and back (seam
number 1). Trim seam allowances to
1
4"
(6mm) wide, neaten edges together, and
press toward sleeves.
Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as
toward back.
Neck edge: Stitch bias strips together to
form one long strip. With wrong sides
together, fold and press bias strip
lengthwise. Unfold bias strip again. Stitch
ends together to a circumference of: size
36: 23
3
4" (60cm); size 38: 24" (61cm);
size 40: 24
1
2" (62cm); size 42: 24
3
4"
(63cm); size 44: 25
1
4" (64cm). Fold strip
again. Pin folded bias strip to neck edge so
that folded edge of strip lies on garment
piece
3
8" (1cm) past seamline. Stitch
alongmarked seamline. Trim seam
allowances. Turn bias strip to inside.
Topstitch
1
4" (6mm) from neck edge.
Press hem allowances on top and
sleeves to inside. From right side, use twin
needle to stitch 1
1
4" (3cm) from lower
edges of top and sleeves.
114-
082014-US
Blouse
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1olHCgw
Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44
on page 58
1
2" (85cm)
Materials
Challis, 54" (137cm) wide: size 34/36:
2
1
4yd (2.05m); size 38/40: 2
3
8yd (2.1m);
size 42/44: 2
5
8yds (2.3m)
Interfacing
Notions: 9 small flat buttons
Preparation
Buttonholes on piece 1 aremarked for size
34/36. For sizes 38/40 and 42/44,mark
top buttonhole same distance from neck
edge as for size 34/36. Bottom buttonhole
is same for all sizes. Space other
buttonholes evenly between.
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); sleeve vent
edges: 1
1
4" (3cm); hem:
5
8" (1.5cm); no
seam allowance on vertical edge of front
self-facing
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Challis:
1front, cut 2
3yoke, cut 2
4sleeve front, cut 2
5sleeve back, cut 2
7collar stand, cut 2 on fold
a) 2 cuffs: size 34/36: 11" (27.5cm); size
38/40, 42/44: 11
1
4" (29.5cm) long, and
4
3
4" (12cm) wide, excluding seam
allowances
Interfacing:
Construction
For the inverted pleat, fold center back
right sides together. Stitch pleat lines
together to arrowmark. Unfold back
again. Press pleat centered over seam.
Baste pleat to upper edge. Topstitch each
side of pleat seam.
Yokes: Press yoke attachment seam
allowances to inside. Lay turned-in yoke
edges on front attachment edges (seam
number 1) and back (seam number 2), and
pin to seam allowances. Stitch yoke edges
in place
3
16" (5mm) from edge.
Turn hem allowances on front and back
pieces to inside, turn in edges, press, and
stitch.
Turn in self-facing on each front foldline
and press. Stitch buttonholes in right self-
facing. Lay folded facings to inside and
press. Baste to neck edge and sew to hem
edge. Topstitch front edges asmarked.
Collar with collar stand: With right sides
together, stitch collar pieces together
along outer edges. Trim seam allowances.
Turn collar right-side out and press. With
right sides together, lay collar stands with
collar in between. Stitch along front and
upper collar stand edges, beginning and
114A-
082014-US
Dress
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42
on page 49
1
4" (64cm)
Materials
Rayon challis, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes
34, 36: 1
3
4yds (1.55m); size 38, 40:
1
7
8yds (1.75m); size 42: 2yds (1.8m)
Preparation
ending in front, exactly at seamline on
attachment edge. Turn collar stand right-
side out. Stitch outer collar stand piece to
blouse neck edge. Press seam allowances
toward collar stand. Turn in inside collar
stand piece and baste to attachment seam.
Topstitch collar stand close to all edges.
Sleeves: Stitch back sleeve seams above
slitmark. Press seam and vent allowances
toward sleeve fronts. At back vent
underlap edges, press seam allowances to
inside. At front vent edges and back
underlap edges, turn seam allowance
edges under to
5
8" (1.5cm) wide and
stitch. Stitch across top of vent, catching
underlap. Fold pleat in lower edge of each
sleeve and baste.
Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Neaten
edges together and press toward sleeves.
seams as continuous seams. Trim seam
allowances, neaten edges together, and
press toward back.
Cuffs: Stitch each cuff to lower sleeve
edge. Press seam allowances of
attachment seam and of other long cuff
edge toward cuff. With right sides
together, fold cuff lengthwise. Stitch across
ends. Turn right-side out. Baste inside edge
in place. Topstitch cuff close to all edges and
also
3
8" (1cm) from attachment seam.
Stitch one buttonhole in right end of
collar stand and in front end of each cuff.
Blue pattern line, sheets A1-A2
Size 34 AAAAA
Size 36 ===
Size 38 CCC
Size 40 67 67
Size 42 EEEEE
Cutting layout
Rayon challis, 60" (152.5cm) wide
side up.
Selvedge
Selvedge
NZ_BS1309_114AT
Pleats on piece 21 aremarked for size 34.
For other sizes,mark pleats accordingly
based on seammarks.
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); hem: 1
1
4"
(3cm)
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Rayon challis:
21front, cut as 1 bias piece (see layout)
22back, cut as 1 bias piece (see layout)
a) 2 bias-cut straps: size 34: 14
1
2" (37cm);
size 36: 15" (38cm); size 38: 15
1
2"
(39cm); size 40: 15
3
4" (40cm); size 42:
16
1
5
8" (4cm) wide,
b) bias strip for neck edge: size 34: 37
3
4"
(96cm); size 36: 39
1
2" (100cm); size 38:
40
3
4" (103cm); size 40: 41
3
4" (106cm);
size 42: 43
1
1
4"
Construction
On front piece, cut along each dart
center to 1
1
4" (3cm) before point. Lay
pleats in direction of arrows and baste to
dart edges. Stitch darts. Trim dart
allowances to
1
4" (6mm) wide, neaten
edges together, and press toward center.
Stitch side seams as French seams: Lay
fabric pieces wrong sides together. Stitch
seam allowances together
1
4" (6mm) from
edge. Press seam allowances open. Lay
pieces right sides together with the seam
exactly along fold. Stitch
3
8" (1cm) from
folded edge, alongmarked seamline. Press
seam allowances to one side.
With right sides together, fold straps
lengthwise. Stitch
3
16" (5mm) from folded
edge. Turn straps right-side out and press.
Baste straps to upper front edge, between
seammarks.
Face the neck edge: With wrong sides
together, fold and press neck edge bias
strip in half lengthwise. Pin folded bias
strip to neck edge so that folded edge of
strip lies on garment piece
3
8" (1cm) past
seamline. Begin at one side seam and turn
end of strip under. At corners of neck
edge,make small folds in strip. Stitch bias
strip in place. Trim seam allowances,
trimming corners diagonally. Clip seam
allowances at center front. Turn bias strip
to inside. Topstitch
1
4" (6mm) from neck
edge.
Pin back strap ends under upper back
edge. Try on dress to determine correct
strap length and hand-stitch ends in place.
Turn hem allowance to inside, press
under half the width and stitch.
116-
082014-US
Coat
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 28
1
2" (105cm)
Sleeves: 4" (10cm) shorter than normal
Materials
Brushed wool fabric, 54" (137cm) wide:
sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 3
3
8yds (3m); size 44:
3
5
8yds (3.3m)
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38:
2
1
8yds (1.9cm); sizes 40, 42: 2
1
4yds
(2.05m); size 44: 2
3
8yds (2.1m)
Interfacing
Notions: 2 large sew-on snap fasteners
Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2
and D1-D2
Size 36 AAAAA
Size 38 ===
Size 40 CCC
Size 42 67 67
Size 44 EEEEE
NZ_BS1311_116T
116A-
082014-US
Jacket
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1phDONj
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 44
Sleeves: 1
1
4" (3cm) shorter than normal
Materials
Matelass, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 36,
38: 2
3
8yds (2.1m); sizes 40, 42, 44:
2
1
2yds (2.2m)
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: size 36: 1
1
2yds
(1.3m); sizes 38, 40: 1
5
8yds (1.35m);
sizes 42, 44: 1
3
4yds (1.60m)
Interfacing
Notions: Fusible fleece; 2 large sew-on
snap fasteners
Note: Tomake both jacket style
116A-082014-US and skirt style 118-
082014-US in the same fabric (as shown in
photo), you will need: sizes 36, 38: 3
1
4yds
(2.9m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 3
3
8yds (3m)
ofmatelass. You will also need: size 36:
2
1
4yds (2m); sizes 38, 40: 2
3
8yds
(2.05m); size 42: 2
5
8yds (2.25m); size 44:
3
3
8yds (3m) of 54" (137cm) wide lining.
Preparation
pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern
piece. Trace front facing from piece 1 as a
separate pattern piece, also tracing snap
fastener markings. Cut out all paper
pattern pieces.
ending exactly at sleeve and side
seamlines.
Stitch sleeve darts. Press darts open,
pressing dart points flat.
Stitch side seams, leaving seam
allowances of sleeve attachment free and
pockets open. Stitch sleeve seams, leaving
seam allowances of attachment free. Press
seam allowances open.
Inseam pockets: With right sides
allowances of pocket opening edges
pocket lining pieces in front and pocket
pieces ofmain fabric in back. Stitch wool
pockets in place, directly alongmarked
seamline. Stitch lining pockets to seam
allowances
1
4" (6mm) from seamline.
Press pocket pieces forward, trim evenly
and stitch together.
Press hem allowances on coat and
sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place.
Neck edge: Turn front self-facings to
outside and stitch to back facing. With
right sides together, stitch facing to neck
edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing
up and understitch as far as possible close
to seam. Turn facing to inside and press
edges.
Stitch lining darts and seams. Turn
lining hem allowance to wrong side, turn
raw edge under, and hand-stitch so that
lining is
3
4" (2cm) shorter than coat.
Preparation
Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a
separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper
pieces.
Upper snap fastenermarking on piece 21
is for size 36. For other sizes,move top
snap up same distance from neck edge.
Bottom snap location is same for all sizes.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Brushed wool:
21front, cut 2
21 pocket, cut 2
22back, cut 2
23sleeve, cut 2
Lining:
21 pocket, cut 2
22 back, cut 2 to lining line
23 sleeve, cut 2 to lining line
Interfacing:
Construction
allowances open.
Stitch sleeves to front and back pieces
(seam numbers 2 and 4), beginning and
Fold fabric
as shown in
the cutting
layout
right sides
together on
a double
layer; right
side up on a
single layer.
Cut right
and left
fronts as
opposites.
Note
direction of
nap.
Cutting layouts
Brushed wool, 54" (137cm) wide
Sizes 36 42
Fold
Selvedges
Nap
Size 44
Fold
Selvedges
Nap
With right sides together, stitch lining
to inside facing edge. With wrong sides
together, lay lining in coat, pulling linings
into sleeves. Turn edges of sleeve linings
under and hand-stitch to hem allowance.
Lay extra length of lining down and press.
Sew facings over coat hem.
upper snap halves to right front facing
asmarked, taking even stitches and exiting
needle on right fabric side. Lay coat
closed,matching center fronts.Mark
positions of lower snap halves on left
front. Sew lower snap halves in place
asmarked.
Snap fasteners marked on piece 1 (front
facing) are for size 36. For the other sizes,
move markings according to size lines.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Matelass:
1front, cut 2
1 front facing, cut 2
1 pocket, cut 2
3sleeve, cut 2
4neck band, cut 4
a) tie belt, a total of: size 36: 63"
(160cm); size 38: 65" (165cm); size 40:
67" (170cm); size 42: 69" (175cm); size
44: 71" (180cm) long, and 3" (7cm)
Lining:
1 front, cut 2,minus width of facing
1 pocket, cut 2
2 back, cut 1,minus width of facing and
with
3
4" (2cm) center back ease pleat
3 sleeve, cut 2
Interfacing:
Interface inside neck band pieces and hem
allowances.
Fuse fleece to wrong side of outer neck
band pieces.
Construction
Stitch shoulder seams on jacket and
facings. Press seams open.
Stitch center back seams on neck
bands. Stitch outer neck band unit to neck
edge of jacket, clipping seam allowance of
fronts into corners to do so. Stitch inside
neck band to facing, clipping facing
allowances into corners. Press seam
allowances away from neck bands.
jacket, and pin band edges together. Stitch
along front edges and band edge. Trim seam
allowances. Turn facing to inside and press
edges. Pin band attachment seams together
exactly. Turn facing forward/up again and stitch
seam allowances together, close to band
attachment seam. Lay facing on jacket again.
Stitch each sleeve to horizontal front
and back armhole edges, from side seam
edge to corner. Clip seam allowances of
fronts and back into corners. Stitch sleeves
to armhole edges, from corner to corner.
continuous seams, leaving pocket openings
free. Along curves, clip seam allowances
several times. Press seam allowances open.
In-seam pockets: With right sides
together, pin pockets to pocket opening
seam allowance edges pocket lining in
front andmatelass pockets in back. Stitch
pockets in place, directly alongmarked
seamlines. Press pockets forward and stitch
edges together.
allowance to inside and then turn down
again. Press sleeve hem allowances to
inside and hand-stitch in place.
On back lining, baste ease pleat at top
and bottom, each 2" (5cm) long, and
baste between. Press pleat to one side.
Stitch lining seams.
Sew lining in place; hem jacket: Right
sides together, stitch lining to inside facing
edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining
inside jacket, pulling linings into sleeves.
Turn lining edge under along hem edge.
Press folded edge lightly, push up in a
shallow curve, and pin to hem allowance.
Hand-stitch facings and lining in place. Lay
extra length of lining down and press
lightly. Turn edge of sleeve linings under
and hand-stitch to hem allowances. Lay
extra length of lining down and press.
needle on right fabric side. Lay jacket
closed,matching center fronts. Sew lower
snap halves to left front tomatch.
lengthwise. Stitch edges together, leaving
an opening for turning. Trim seam
allowances, trimming corners diagonally.
Turn belt right-side out. Press edges. Sew
opening closed.
117-
082014-US
Jacket
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42
on page 26
1
2" (52cm)
Sleeves: 3
1
Materials
Note: Both sides of the ponte knit show.
Ponte knit, 60" (152.5cm): 1
3
8yds (1.2m)
for all sizes
Stretch nappa leather for sleeves and
bands. Tomake the jacket, you will need 2
leather skins with a total of 8 sq. ft. (1 sq.
ft. = 30 30cm).
Alternative: Stretch imitation leather, 54"
(137cm) wide: 1yd (.9m) for all sizes
Stretch lining, 54" (137cm) wide, for the
sleeves:
7
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; pre-folded
satin bias tape,
3
4" (2cm) wide: size 34:
1yd (.9m); sizes 36, 38: 1
1
8yd (1m); sizes
40, 42: 1
1
4yds (1.1m); 1 two-way
separating zipper, sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 20"
(50cm), size 44: 22" (55cm) long; 2 large
sew-on snap fasteners; textile glue; glue
stick
Notes on leather (or imitation leather): We
recommend that you firstmake the
garment from inexpensive cotton fabric.
Transfer any required alterations to the
paper pattern before cutting out the
leather. Avoid basting leather and ripping
seams since the needle holes left are
permanent. Press leather from the wrong
side (cover with a pressing cloth), at
amoderate temperature and without
steam. Test-iron a scrap of the leather first.
Preparation
Cut leather bands without seam
allowances.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Ponte knit:
1center front with collar, cut 2
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 1 on fold
4side back, cut 2
5center front peplum, cut 4
6side front peplum, cut 4
7center back peplum, cut 2 on fold
8side back peplum, cut 4
Stretch nappa leather:
a) 4 front bands: size 34: 26
3
4" (68cm);
size 36: 27" (68.5cm); size 38: 27
1
2"
(69.5cm); size 40: 27
3
4" (70cm); size 42:
28" (71cm) long, and
3
4" (2cm) wide
b) 2 collar bands: size 34: 32" (81cm); size
36: 32
5
8" (82.5cm); size 38: 33" (84cm);
size 40: 33
1
2" (85cm); size 42: 34
1
8"
(86.5cm) long, and
3
4" (2cm) wide
c) collar attachment band: size 34: 12
1
4"
(31cm); sizes 36, 38: 12
3
4" (32cm); size
40: 13" (33cm); size 42: 13
1
2" (34cm)
long, and
5
8" (1.5cm) wide
Stretch lining:
Fuse to wrong side of back neck edge,
front shoulder edges, and armhole edges.
Construction
Stitch right front section seam. Stitch
back section seams and side seams. Press
On outer peplum pieces, stitch right
front section seam, back section seams,
and side seams.
Stitch outer peplum unit to front and
back, beginning and ending stitching at
front edges, exactly onmarked seamline.
Separate zipper. Baste left zipper half
(with pull) face up to side edge of center
left front and peplum pieces so that zipper
teeth lie on garment piece and the zipper
tape lies on seam allowance. Zipper should
end
3
16" (5mm) abovemarked lower
edge. Using the zipper foot, stitch left
front section seam, catching zipper in
seam. Press seam allowances to the side.
Stitch shoulder seams, beginning and
ending atmarked neck edge. Clip shoulder
seam allowances into corner. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch center back seam on integrated
collar pieces. Press seam allowances to one
side. Trim lower seam allowance to
3
16"
(5mm) wide. Turn under edge of upper
seam allowance and baste. From garment
right side, stitch
1
4" (6mm) from seam.
Stitch collar to back neck edge. Lay
leather band over collar attachment seam
allowances, leaving ends of band
extending evenly. Stitch leather band to
seam allowances only, close to the seam.
Trim seam allowances under band. Lay
leather band and seam allowances down.
Stitch band ends in place, along lines of
shoulder seams, and trim extending ends.
Stitch lower band edge in place.
On inside peplum, stitch section seams
and side seams. With right sides together,
pin inside peplum to attached peplum.
Stitch lower edges together, beginning and
ending seam atmarked front edge. Trim
seam allowances. Turn inside peplum down
and understitch close to seam. Turn inside
peplum to inside and press edge. Lay inside
edge flat over attachment seam. From
jacket right side, stitch along attachment
seam, interrupting stitching at zipper on left
section seam. Clip seam allowance of left
front next to seam allowance edge and
directly at front section seam, close to
horizontal seam. Bind seam allowances of
horizontal seam together, with bias tape.
On front edges of peplum and fronts,
trim away seam allowances, then continue
along outer collar edges.
Turn upper end of right zipper tape
under. Pin right half of zipper face up to
front edge of right front and peplum so
that teeth extend past edge. Zipper should
end
3
16" (5mm) abovemarked lower
edge. Stitch zipper tape in place.
Using a glue stick, apply leather bands
along front edges and collar edges of
jacket, on both outer side and underside.
Overlap band ends at collar corners.
Edgestitch bands in place on right front
edge, next to the zipper using zipper foot.
Stitch back sleeve seams. Topstitch
upper sleeves close to seams. Stitch front
sleeve seams. Spread seam allowances
open and glue down with textile glue.
Fold sleeve hem allowances to wrong
side of leather and press hem edge. Do
not yet turn sleeves right side out. Stitch
seams on sleeve linings. With right sides
together, stitch lower edges of sleeve
linings to hem allowances of leather
sleeves,matching raw edges. Glue sleeve
hem allowances in place with textile
glue. With wrong sides together, pull
sleeve linings over leather sleeves, and
stitch upper edges to seam allowances.
Lay extra length of lining down and
press. Turn sleeves right side out.
Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2
Size 34 3333
Size 36 4444
Size 38 55
Size 40 6666
Size 42 7777
Cut from a
double
layer of
fabric, right
sides
together.
Alternative:
Stretch imitation
leather, 54" (137cm) wide
Selvedges
Fold
Cutting layouts
Ponte knit, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Stretch nappa leather
Since leather skins can vary greatly, no
pattern layout is given for the leather.
Selvedges
Fold
NZ_BS1311_117T
Set in sleeves.
On left front band, sew lower snap
halves in place, placing one snap level with
peplum attachment seam and one snap
10
3
4" (27cm) above. Close zipper. Sew
upper snap halves to inside of peplum
attachment seam and to seam allowance
of section seam.
118-
082014-US
Skirt
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1olxXGW
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 44
1
2" (62cm)
Waistband sits at natural waistline
Materials
Matelass, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
7
8yd
(.8m) for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide:
7
8yd (.7m)
Waistband interfacing
Notions: 1 Invisible zipper, 9" (22cm) long
Note: See jacket 116A-082014-US for the
total fabric required tomake both skirt and
jacket from one fabric as shown in the
photo.
Preparation
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); vent
edges: 1
1
4" (3cm); upper skirt edge and
waistband:
3
8" (1cm); hem: 1
5
8" (4cm);
lining:
5
8" (1.5cm)
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Matelass:
1front skirt, cut 1 on fold
2back skirt, cut 2
a) waistband: size 34: 26
1
2" (67cm); size 36:
28" (71cm); size 38: 29
3
4" (75cm); size 40:
31
1
4" (79cm); size 42: 32
3
4" (83cm); size
44: 34
1
1
2" (6cm)
Lining:
1 front skirt, cut 1 on fold
2 back skirt, cut 2
Interfacing:
Construction
toward centers.
Stitch side seams. Press seam
allowances open.
press waistband in half lengthwise. Unfold
waistband. Stitch waistband to upper skirt
edge. Press seam allowances open.
opening edges and outer waistband half
(see instructions on page 66). Stitch center
back seam from vent to zipper. Press seam
allowances open.
On lining, stitch darts, center back seam,
and side seams, leaving openings for zipper
and vent. With right sides together, stitch
lining to inside waistband edge. Press seam
allowances toward lining. Fold waistband
half to inside. With wrong sides together,
pull lining into skirt. Pin waistband
attachment seams together exactly. From
skirt right side, stitch along seam. Turn
under edges of inside waistband half and
lining and sew to zipper tapes.
Press hem and vent allowances to inside
and hand-stitch sew in place.
In the areas of the vent, trim away a
generous section of lining, rounding off
top corners. Narrowly hem edges. Turn
hem allowance of lining to wrong side,
turn edge under, and stitch lining
3
4"
(2cm) shorter than skirt.
119-
082014-US
Fur collar
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1ni95CD
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42
on page 27
Materials
Fake fur with long pile, 54" (137cm) wide:
1
2yd (.35m)
Ponte knit, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
1
2yd
(.35m).
Fine jersey, 60" (152cm) wide, for lining:
1
2yd (.35m)
Cutting
Fake fur/fine jersey:
Collar: size 34: 30
3
4" (78cm); size 36:
32
1
2" (82cm); size 38: 33
1
2" (85cm); size
40: 35" (89cm)l size 42: 36
1
4" (92cm)
long, and 12" (30cm) wide
Ponte knit:
2 connecting pieces, size 34: 6
3
4" (17cm);
size 36: 7
1
8" (18cm); size 38: 7
1
2"
(19cm); size 40: 8" (20cm); size 42: 8
3
8"
(21cm) long, and 12" (30cm) wide
Construction
Note: When stitching seams, push hairs of
fur away from seam, toward collar piece.
Lay connecting pieces right sides
together. Stitch short edges together (at top
and bottom), with a stretch stitch,
stretching edges slightly. Turn right-side out
and press edges. Pin open edges together.
With right sides together, baste
connecting piece to one side edge of fur
collar. Lay lining on collar right sides
together over connecting piece, and pin.
Stitch along upper and lower collar edges
(long edges), beginning and ending at side
edge without connecting piece, exactly
atmarked seamline and not stitching across
seam allowances. Turn collar right-side out.
Stitch connecting piece to open side edge
of fur collar. Turn lining edge under and
hand-stitch to attachment seam.
Construction
Lay pleats in upper front in direction of
arrows and baste.
With wrong sides together, fold and press
facing strip for back neck edge lengthwise.
Pin folded facing strip to back neck edge so
that folded edge of strip lies on garment
piece,
3
8" (1cm) past seamline. Stitch facing
strip in place. Trim seam allowances. Turn
facing strip to inside and press edge.
Topstitch
1
4" (6mm) from neck edge.
With right sides together, baste back
shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Turn
front self-facing onto back at foldline, and
pin to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams.
Pull back out of front. Lay facing on front.
Press shoulder seams, but do not press
folded edge. Baste facing to armhole edges.
Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, beginning
and ending exactly at marked sleeve seamlines.
At seam ends, turn seam allowances of sleeves
back and pin in place. Stitch each side seam,
from sleeve attachment seam to lower edge.
Remove pins. Stitch sleeve seams.
Stitch side seams on lower front and
back pieces.
Stitch upper front and back to lower
front and back, easing upper section. Press
seam allowances down and stitch
asmarked to form casing, leaving 2"
(5cm) open to insert elastic. Insert elastic
in casing. Sew ends of elastic together to a
circumference of: size 36: 26" (66cm);
size 38: 27
3
4" (70cm); size 40: 29
1
4"
(74cm); size 42: 30
3
4" (78cm); size 44:
32
1
2" (82cm). Sew seam opening closed.
Turn hem allowances of dress and
sleeves to inside. Stitch 1" (2.5cm) from
lower edges of dress and sleeves with
twin sewingmachine needle, catching
hem allowances.
119A-
082014-US
Top
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/Rfv12g
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 42
Finished length from waist: 10" (25cm)
Sleeves: 2
1
Materials
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size
36: 1
7
8yds (1.7m); sizes 38, 40: 2yds
(1.8cm); sizes 42, 44: 2
1
8yds (1.9m)
Notions: Elastic,
3
8" (1cm) wide: sizes 36,
38, 40, 42:
7
8yd (.8m); size 44: 1yd
(.85m); fusible bias stay tape; twin
Preparation
Note hem line for view A. Cut out all paper
pieces.
Pleat arrows on piece 21 aremarked for
size 36. For other sizes,mark pleat arrows
accordingly.
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); lower
edges of pieces 21 and 22:
3
4" (2cm);
upper edge of piece 24:
3
4" (2cm); hem
and sleeve hems: 1
1
4" (3cm)
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Stretch jersey:
21upper front, cut 1 on fold
22upper back, cut 1 on fold
23sleeve, cut 2
24lower front, cut 1 on fold
24lower back, cut 1 on fold
a) back neck edge facing strip: sizes 36,
38: 12
1
4" (31cm); size 40: 12
3
4" (32cm);
size 42: 13 (33cm); size 44: 13
1
2"
(34cm) long, and 1
5
8" (4cm) wide,
Fuse to wrong side of armhole edges, back
shoulder edges, and back neck edge.
120-
082014-US
Dress
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42
on page 45
3
4" (68cm)
Materials
Silk organza, 45" (114.5cm) wide: sizes
34, 36, 38: 3
1
2yds (3.20m); sizes 40, 42:
3
5
8yds (3.3m)
Red pattern line, sheets D1-D2
Pattern pieces 21, 22 and 24
Size 34 AAAAA
Size 36 ===
Size 38 CCC
Size 40 67 67
Size 42 EEEEE
NZ_BS1312_120T
Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60cm)
long; 1 small ball button
Preparation
Trace pieces 21-22 and 24 from pattern
sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.
Seams, edges, and hem:
3
8" (1cm)
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Silk organza:
22back, cut 2
24back skirt, cut 2
a) tie belt: size 34: 65" (165cm); size 36:
67" (170cm); size 38: 69" (175cm); sizes
40, 42: 71" (180cm) long, and 8
3
4"
(22cm) wide, excluding seam allowances
b) bias binding neckline strip: size 34:
19
3
4" (50cm); size 36: 20
1
4" (51cm); size
38: 20
1
2" (52cm); size 40: 21" (53cm);
size 42: 21
1
1
4"
c) 2 bias binding armhole strips: size 34:
18
1
8" (46cm); size 36: 19" (48cm); size
38: 19
1
4" (49cm); size 40: 20
1
4" (51cm);
size 42: 20
1
1
4"
Construction
Sew shoulder seams as French seams:
Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together.
Stitch seam allowances together
1
8" (4mm)
from the edge. Begin and end stitching
exactly atmarked seamlines of neck and
armhole edges. Press seam allowances
open. Lay pieces right sides together with
the seam lying exactly along the fold. Stitch
1
4" (6mm) from folded edge, alongmarked
seamline, not stitching across seam
allowances at neck edge and armhole
edges. Press seam allowances toward back.
Gather upper skirt edge and lower front
and back edges between asterisks: front
to: size 34: 11
1
8" (28cm); size 36: 12"
(30cm); size 38: 12
3
4" (32cm); size 40:
13
1
2" (34cm); size 42: 14
1
4" (36cm); and
each back to: size 34: 5
1
2" (14cm); size
36: 6" (15cm); size 38: 6
3
8" (16cm); size
40: 6
3
4" (17cm); size 42: 7
1
8" (18cm).
Stitch front skirt to front piece. Stitch
back skirts to back pieces. Neaten edges of
seam allowances together and press
allowances up.
opening edges, between openingmarks
(see instructions on page 66). Turn top
ends of zipper tapes under and sew to
seam allowances. Above zipper, press back
opening seam allowances to inside, turn
edges under, and stitch in place. Trim
lower zipper tapes
3
4" (2cm) below
opening and bind ends with a fabric scrap.
Clip seam allowances at end of opening.
Cutting layout
Silk organza, 45" (114.5cm) wide
Fold the
fabric as
shown in
the cutting
layout, right
sides
together.
Selvedges Selvedges
Selvedges
Fold
F
o
l
d
Sew center back seam as a French seam
(see above), from lower edge to zipper
opening.
Bind neck edge: Trim away seam
allowance of neck edge. With wrong sides
together, fold and press binding strip in
half lengthwise. Pin folded binding strip to
inside of neck edge, leaving end of strip
extending past left back opening edge
1
1
4" (3cm) for loop. Stitch binding strip in
place
3
16" (5mm) from edge. Turn binding
up and turn right end under. Fold binding
strip out over neck edge and baste over
attachment seam. Edgestitch binding in
place, also stitching edges of extending
section closed. Lay the extending end in a
loop and sew to inside back edge. Stitch
right end of binding closed.
At each armhole edge, trim away seam
allowance. Bind armhole edges.
Sew side seams as French seams (see
above). Sew upper ends of seam
allowances to armhole edges by hand.
At each side seam, stitch a thread loop
3" (7cm) long over waistline seam. For
each loop, stretch 34 threads and cover
them closely with hand buttonhole
stitching.
Tie belt: With right sides together, fold
tie belt lengthwise. Stitch edges together,
leaving a section of seam open for turning.
Turn belt right-side out. Sew seam opening
closed.
Finish hem edge with closely spaced
zigzag: Press hem allowance to wrong
side. From right side, stitch along folded
edge with closely spaced zigzag. On inside,
carefully trim hem allowance close to
stitching.
Sew button to right back slit edge,
tomatch loop.
120.1-
082014-US
Skirt
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 57
Finished length: 15
3
4" (40 cm)
Upper skirt edge sits at natural waistline.
Materials
Sequin fabric, 54" (137) wide: 1 yd (.85 m)
for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide:
5
8 yd (.5 m) for
all sizes
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible
zipper, 9" (22 cm) long
Preparation
yoke pieces from skirt panels as separate
pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Sequin fabric:
1center front yoke, cut 1 on fold
2side front yoke, cut 2
3center back yoke, cut 2
4side back yoke, cut 2
a) 2 skirt panels: size 34: 47
1
4" (120 cm);
size 36: 47
3
4" (121 cm); size 38: 48
1
2"
(123 cm); size 40: 49
3
4" (126 cm); size 42:
50" (127 cm); size 44: 50
3
4" (129 cm)
wide, and 10" (25 cm) long
Lining:
1center front skirt panel, cut 1 on fold
2side front skirt panel, cut 2
3center back skirt panel, cut 2
4side back skirt panel, cut 2
Fuse to wrong side of upper edge on skirt
lining pieces.
Construction
Stitch side front yokes to center front
yoke. Stitch side back yokes to center back
yokes. Stitch side seams of yoke. Press
Sew invisible zipper to back edges of
yoke (see instructions on page 66). Leave
zipper tapes extending past lower edge.
Stitch lining seams, leaving walking slits
4
3
4"(12 cm) long in side seams and leaving
slit for zipper opening in back.
Face upper skirt edge: With right sides
together, pull lining over skirt and pin to
upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn
lining edge under
3
16" (5 mm) before
opening edge and pin to upper edge. Turn
skirt seam allowances at opening edges to
outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over
lining. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn
seam allowances on opening edges to
inside. Turn lining up and understitch as far
as possible close to seam. Turn lining to
inside and sew to zipper tapes.
Press hem allowance to inside and
hand-stitch in place. Hem lining
3
8" (1 cm)
shorter than skirt. Narrowly turn under
edges of walking slits and sew in place.
120A-
082014-US
Trousers
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1kuk88m
Burda sizes 72, 76, 80, 84, 88
on page 27
Finished side length: 48" (122cm)
Waistband edge sits
3
4" (2cm) below
waistline
Leg hem circumference: 12" (30cm)
Materials
Crpe, 54" (137cm) wide: size 72: 2
1
8 yds
(1.9 m); size 76: 2
1
4 yds (1.95 m); sizes 80,
84, 88: 2
1
2 yds (2.2 m)
Interfacing
Notions: 2 large sew-on snap fasteners;
small piece of lining fabric to cover snaps
Preparation
Tape pieces 21 and 21a together
asmarked. Lengthen piece 22 as indicated.
Cut out all paper pieces.
Pleat arrow on piece 21 ismarked for size
72. For other sizes, remark the pleat arrow
according to size lines.
Mark 5 pleats on each skirt panel
pleat width: size 34: 3" (7.5 cm); size 36:
3
1
8" (7.7 cm); size 38: 3
1
4" (8 cm); size 40:
3
3
8" (8.5 cm); size 42: 3
1
2" (8.7 cm); size
44: 3
5
8" (9 cm), pleat depth: 6" (15 cm)
begin and end with one pleat width. Lay
pleats in skirt and baste to upper skirt
edge. Pleats should run from right to left
around the body.
Stitch side seams on skirt panels. Stitch
skirt panels to yoke. Clip allowances of
yoke attachment seam
3
8" (1 cm) to each
side of zipper. Press seam allowances of
yoke attachment seam up and press down
at zipper.
Green pattern line, sheet C1
Size 34 2222
Size 36 3333
Size 38 4444
Size 40 55
Size 42 6666
Size 44 7777
NZ_BS1310_120T
Cut from a
double layer
of fabric,
right sides
together.
Cutting layouts
Sequin fabric, 54" (137 cm) wide
Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide
Selvedges
Selvedges
Fold
Fold
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Crpe:
23back yoke, cut 2
24pocket, cut 4
a) right waistband, size 72: 18
1
2" (47cm);
size 76: 19
1
2" (49.5cm); size 80: 20
1
2"
(52cm); size 84: 21
1
4" (54cm); size 88:
22
3
8" (56.5cm) long; left waistband, size
72: 19
1
4" (49cm); size 76: 20
3
8"
(51.5cm); size 80: 21
1
4" (54cm); size 84:
22
1
4" (56cm); size 88: 23
1
8" (58.5cm)
long, and each 3
1
seam allowances
Interfacing:
Fuse to wrong side of waistband pieces.
Construction
Stretch seam edges: Lay back trouser
pieces right sides together. Stretch inside
leg edges above seammark by pressing
with a steam iron or under a damp cloth
until theymatch corresponding edges on
front trouser pieces.
Stitch darts in back trouser pieces and
press toward center.
Stitch back yokes to back trouser pieces.
Press seam allowances toward yokes.
Work from inside to stitch pleats in front
trouser pieces, from upper edge to pleat
arrow. Lay pleats in direction of arrows and
press. Baste pleats to upper edge.
Stitch side seams, leaving pocket
openings free. Press seams open.
Inseam pockets:w Work from inside to
pin pocket pieces to pocket opening seam
allowances, right sides together. Stitch
pocket pieces in place, close to side seam
and exactly along seamline at pocket
opening edge. Press pocket pieces forward
and stitch edges together. Baste upper
pocket edges in place.
Stitch inside leg seams. Press seam
allowances open. Stitch center front and
center back seam as a continuous seam.
Press center seam open from each upper
edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not
press seam allowances flat along curve.
Clip right trouser front as marked on
pattern. Neaten cut edges, press narrowly
to wrong side, and stitch in place. With
wrong sides together, fold left trouser
front on foldline. Lay folded edge on right
piece, so that marked center front lies on
center seam. Baste all three fabric layers
together along upper edge. Fold right
front on foldline, wrong side in. Baste both
fabric layers together on upper edge.
Waistband: Stitch waistband ends
together. Stitch waistband to upper trouser
edge,matching seam to center back. Press
seam allowances of attachment seam and
other long waistband edge toward
waistband. With right sides together, fold
waistband lengthwise. Stitch across ends.
Turn waistband right-side out. Baste inside
edge in place. From right side of trousers,
stitch along waistband attachment seam,
catching inner edge. Cover snap fastener
halves with lining fabric (see instructions on
page 97). Sew one upper snap half to inside
of right waistband end. Sew bottom snap
half to left waistband end. Space each
5
8"
(1.5cm) from waistband end. Lay right
trouser piece over left piece, matching
center fronts. Mark snap positions on
waistband. Sew snaps in place as marked.
Press hem allowances to inside, turn
edges under, and hand-stitch in place.
121A-
082014-US
Jacket
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44
on page 31
1
2" (77cm)
Materials
Note: Both sides of fabric show in finished
garment.
Poplin, 60" (152.5cm) wide: size 34/36:
2
3
4yds (2.5m); size 38/40: 2
7
8yds
(2.55m); size 42/44: 2
7
8yds (2.6m)
Interfacing
Notions: 2 buttons
Preparation
Cut out all paper pieces.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Poplin:
21 front, cut 1
22 back, cut 1 on fold
23 sleeve front, cut 2
24 sleeve back, cut 2
25 standing collar, cut 2 on fold
a) tie belt: size 34/36: 60" (150cm); size
38/40: 64" (160cm); size 42/44: 68"
(170cm), and 1
1
seam allowances
b) 2 cuffs: size 34/36: 9
1
8" (23cm); size
38/40: 9
1
2" (24cm); size 42/44: 10"
(25cm), including 1
1
4" (3cm) for
underlap, and 1
3
seam allowances
Interfacing:
Fuse interfacing to wrong side of outer
collar piece and outer cuff halves.
Note: On piece 21, the left front fabric
wrong side becomes the right side.
Transfer patternmarks accordingly.
Construction
Front edges: Press right front hem
allowance to right side of fabric, from
upper edge to 4" (10cm) before slitmark,
turn edge under to a width of
1
4" (6mm)
and edgestitch in place. Press left front
hem allowance to wrong side of fabric,
from upper edge to 4" (10cm) before
slitmark, turn edge under to a width of
1
4" (6mm), and edgestitch in place.
Fold front onmarked foldline so that right
fabric side is visible on right front half and
wrong fabric side is visible on left front half.
Pin front edge of right front to left front.
Back hem edge, side seams, and slits:
Press hem allowance on lower edge of
back piece to inside, turn edge under to a
width of
1
4" (6mm), and edgestitch in
place. Lay back on front, right fabric sides
of right front half and back piece lie
together. Stitch each side seam from upper
Selvedge Selvedges
Fold
Fold
Fold the fabric as shown in the
cutting layoutright sides
together on a double layer;
right side up on a single layer.
Lay the front piece on the
right side of the fabric, with
pattern printed side facing up.
Cut right and left sleeve pieces
as opposites.
Cutting layouts
Poplin, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Sizes 34/36 to 42/44
Selvedge
Black pattern line, sheet B1-B2
Size 34/36 CCC
Size 38/40 67 67
Size 42/44 EEEEE
NZ_BS1311_121T
edge to slitmark. Press seam allowances
open. Neaten seam allowance edges from
upper edges to end of seams. Press slit
allowances on back and remaining
allowances on front pieces to inside, as far
as top of slit, turn edges under to a width
of
1
4" (6mm), and edgestitch in place.
Stitch horizontally across top of slit.
Lower sleeve seams: With right sides
together, lay sleeve front pieces on sleeve
back pieces. Stitch lower sleeve seams
(seam number 2). Press seam allowances
open and neaten edges.
Set in sleeves. Trim seam allowances to
1
4" (6mm), neaten edges together, and
press toward sleeve, from upper edge to
beginning of underarm curve.
122A-
082014-US
Dress
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42
on page 45
1
2" (62cm)
Materials
Stretch satin, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 34,
36, 38: 1
1
8yd (1m); sizes 40, 42: 1
1
2yds
(1.25m)
Lining for bodice, 54" (137cm) wide, cut
on bias:
5
Interfacing
Preparation
out all paper pieces. On pieces 1-4 note
different grainlines formain fabric and
lining. At walking slit (on piece 6), note
different lines for right and left edges, but
first cut skirt pieces the same size, from
double layer of fabric.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Stretch satin:
1center front, cut 1 on fold
2side front, cut 2
3center back, cut 1 on fold
4side back, cut 2
5skirt front, cut 1 on fold
6skirt back, cut 2
a) 2 straps: size 34: 16
1
2" (42cm); size 36:
17" (43cm); size 38: 17
1
4" (44cm); size
40: 17
3
4" (45cm); size 42: 18
1
8" (46cm)
long, and 1
1
allowances
Lining:
1 center front, cut 1 on fold
2 side front, cut 2
3 center back, cut 1 on fold
4 side back, cut 2
Interfacing:
Shoulder seams and upper sleeve
seams, slit: With right sides together, lay
front on back, folding sleeves lengthwise.
seams as continuous seams, up to
slitmark. Press seam allowances open.
Neaten edges of seam allowances from
upper edge to slitmark. Press slit
allowances to inside, turn edge under to
1
4" (6mm), and edgestitch in place. Stitch
horizontally across top of slit.
Cuffs: Gather lower sleeve edges to:
size 34/36: 8" (20cm); size 38/40: 8
3
8"
(21cm); size 42/44: 8
3
4" (22cm).
With right sides together, pin interfaced
cuff halves to lower sleeve edges, leaving
underlap extending at back vent edge.
Stitch cuffs to sleeves. Press seam
allowances toward cuffs. Press seam
allowance on opposite cuff edge to wrong
side. With right sides together, fold cuffs in
half and stitch narrow edges together. Trim
seam allowances, trimming corners
diagonally. Turn cuffs right-side out. Press.
Pin inside cuff halves over attachment seam,
pinning edges together on underlap.
Topstitch cuffs close to attachment seam,
stitch underlap together close to edges.
Stitch buttonhole at front cuff ends. Sew
button on underlap tomatch.
Standing collar: With right sides
together, stitch interfaced collar to neck
edge (seam number 5). Trim seam
allowances and clip curves. Press seam
allowances toward collar. On un-interfaced
collar piece press seam allowance on
attachment edge to wrong side, then turn
down flat again. With right sides together,
lay un-interfaced collar piece on interfaced
collar piece. Pin front edges together,
turning seam allowances of attachment
seam down flat again to do so. Stitch
along front edge and upper edges of
collar. Trim seam allowances, trimming
corners diagonally. Turn collar right-side
out. Turn edge of inside collar piece under
and pin over attachment seam. From
garment right side, topstitch collar close to
attachment seam catching inside half.
With right sides together, fold tie belt in
half lengthwise. Stitch edges together,
leaving 2" (5cm) open for turning. Turn
belt right-side out. Press. Sew seam
opening closed.
Black pattern line, sheet D2
Size 34 3333
Size 36 4444
Size 38 55
Size 40 6666
Size 42 7777
NZ_BS1312_122T
Sizes 40, 42
Selvedges
Fold
Cutting layouts
Stretch satin, 54" (137cm) wide
Sizes 34 38
Selvedges
Fold Fold
Fold
Selv.
Fold the fabric as
shown in the
cutting layouts
right sides together
on a double layer;
right side up on a
single layer.
Sizes 34 42
Selvedge
Fold
Selvedge
Construction
Stitch side fronts to center front. Stitch
side backs to center back. Press seams
open.
Stitch center back skirt seam, leaving
walking slit open. Press seam open and
press slit facing of left skirt back to inside.
Turn right slit underlap toward left skirt
back and press seam allowance of right
skirt back to inside, tapered above slit, to
avoid needing to clip it. Trim left slit facing
to 1
5
8" (4cm) wide. Press right slit facing
to inside. Stitch darts in skirt and press
toward center.
Stitch skirt front to bodice front and
stitch skirt back to bodice back. Press seam
allowances up.
Sew invisible zipper to left opening
edges abovemark (see instructions on
page 66). Stitch left side seam from lower
edge to zipper. Stitch right side seam. Press
With right sides together, fold each
strap lengthwise. Stitch
1
4" (6mm) from
folded edge. Turn straps right-side out and
press. Baste straps to upper front edge
above section seams.
On lining, stitch section seams and right
side seam (asmirror image of dress seam).
With right sides together, pin lining to
bodice edge. At zipper opening, turn lining
back
3
16" (5mm) before opening edge,
and pin to upper edge. Turn seam
allowances on dress opening edges to
outside and pin to bodice edge, over
lining. Stitch along upper edge. Trim seam
allowances and clip at center front. Turn
seam allowances inside at opening edges.
Turn lining up and understitch close to
seam. Turn lining edges under and sew to
zipper tapes and skirt attachment seam.
Pin back strap ends under back edge. Try
on dress to determine correct strap length.
Hand-stitch strap ends in place.
At hem edge, unfold facings of walking
slit. Press hem allowance to inside and
hand-stitch in place. Turn slit facings to
inside again and hand-stitch to hem.
Topstitch left skirt back at an angle
asmarked, catching underlap.
123A-
082014-US
Dress
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 72, 76, 80, 84, 88
on page 40
3
4" (68cm)
Materials
Chiffon, 54" (137cm) wide: size 72:
3
1
8yds (2.75m); sizes 76, 80: 3
1
4yds
(2.90m); sizes 84, 88: 3
3
8yds (3m)
Lightweight satin crpe, 54" (137cm)
wide, to back chiffon pieces and as lining:
size 72: 3yds (2.7m); sizes 76, 80: 3
1
8yds
(2.8m); sizes 84, 88: 3
1
4yds (2.9m)
zipper, 24" (60cm) long
Preparation
Draft skirt pattern as follows:
On a large sheet of paper (the upper edge
and the right edgesmust form a right
angle), stretch a tapemeasure from the
upper right corner tomark the radius (R)
Black pattern line, sheet A1-A2
Size 72 AAAAA
Size 76 ===
Size 80 CCC
Size 84 67 67
Size 88 EEEEE
NZ_BS1312_123T
Radius for waist edge (R):
size 72: 9
1
4" (23.5cm), size 76:
9
3
4" (24.8cm)
size 80: 10
1
4" (26.1cm), size 84:
10
3
4" (27.4cm)
size 88: 11
1
4" (28.6cm)
Radius for hem line (R1):
size 72: 36" (91.5cm), size 76:
36
1
2" (92.8cm)
size 80: 37" (94.1cm), size 84:
37
1
2" (95.4cm)
size 88: 38" (96.6cm)
Diagram skirt panel
Fold the fabric as shown in the
cutting layout, right sides together.
for the waist edge and hem line (R1). Cut
Cutting layouts
Chiffon, 54" (137cm) wide
Selvedges
Selvedges
F
o
l
d
Satin crpe (lining), 54"
(137cm) wide
Selvedges
Selvedges
F
o
l
d
F
o
l
d
Straight Grain
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Chiffon:
21upper front, cut 2
23back, cut 2
24sleeve, cut 2
a) skirt panel, cut 1 on a fold (see diagram)
b) 2 sleeve vent facings, cut on bias: 4"
(10cm) long, and 1
1
4" (3cm) wide,
c) 2 back tie bands: size 72: 31
1
2" (80cm);
size 76: 32
1
2" (82cm); size 80: 33"
(84cm); size 84: 34" (86cm); size 88:
34
1
1
2" (6cm) wide,
Satin crpe (lining):
23back, cut 4
a) skirt panel, cut 1 on fold (see diagram)
c) 2 back tie bands, size 72: 31
1
2" (80cm);
size 76: 32
1
2" (82cm); size 80: 33"
(84cm); size 84: 34" (86cm); size 88:
34
1
1
2" (6cm) wide,
excluding seam allowance
d) 2 sleeve bands with integrated tie bands,
cut on bias: 40" (100cm) long, and 1
1
4"
Fuse to wrong side of neck edges on two
upper front and back pieces lining pieces.
Construction
With wrong side facing right side, lay
upper fronts, lower front, back pieces, and
tie bands of chiffon on corresponding
pieces of lining and baste edges together.
Treat these pieces as one for construction.
Stitch shoulder seams on dress and
lining separately. With right sides together,
lay lining on upper front and back pieces.
Stitch along neck edges. Turn lining up and
understitch close to seam. Turn lining to
inside and press neck edges. Baste
remaining edges together. Gather lower
edges of upper front pieces between
asterisks to 2
3
8" (6cm). At upper points of
lower front and lining lower front, fold
seam allowance down horizontally and
press. Baste upper front pieces to lower
front with neck edgesmeeting at center
front. With right sides together, lay lower
front lining piece on lower front piece,
catching upper front pieces. Stitch from
each seam number 1 to center front. Trim
seam allowances. Turn lining to inside and
baste lower edges together.
124A-
082014-US
Dress
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 17, 18, 19, 20, 21
on page 41
1
4" (64cm)
Materials
Crpe, 60" (152.5cm) wide: sizes 17, 18,
19: 2
1
4yds (2m); sizes 20, 21: 2
1
2yds
(2.2m)
Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: 1
1
2yds (1.3m)
for all sizes
zipper 24" (60cm) long; 6 small fabric-
covered buttons
Preparation
Lining: Overlap seamlines and cut as
follows: For the lining front, tape pieces 1
and 2 together. For the skirt front lining,
tape pattern pieces 4 and 6 (without pleat)
together. For the skirt back lining piece,
tape pattern pieces 5 and 7 together. Cut
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Crpe:
2front yoke, cut 2
3back, cut 2
4front skirt yoke, cut 1 on fold
5back skirt yoke, cut 2
7back skirt, cut 2
8sleeve, cut 2
With right sides together, fold tie bands
lengthwise. Stitch each along long edge
and across one end. Trim seam allowances.
Turn tie bands right-side out and press.
Baste tie bands to side seam edges of back
pieces, below seammarks.
Sleeve vents: With right sides together,
pin each sleeve vent facing piece to sleeve
overmarked slash line. From wrong side,
stitch close to both sides of slashmark. Slash
between stitching lines. Turn facing to inside.
Press vent edges. Turn facing edges under
and baste in place. Topstitch close to vent
edges and
3
16" (5mm) from vent edges.
Gather sleeve cap on each side
ofmarked line to: size 72: 2
3
8" (6cm); size
76: 2
5
8" (6.5cm); size 80: 2
3
4" (7cm); size
84: 3" (7.5cm); size 88: 3
1
4" (8cm). From
a scrap of remaining fabric, cut two
backing strips, each 4" (10cm) long and
3
4" (2cm) wide. Press long edges under
1
4" (6mm). On inside, lay backing strips
over gathers and turn lower ends under.
From right side, stitch between lines of
gathering stitching. Remove gathering
threads. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges,
beginning and ending exactly atmarked
sleeve seamlines. At seam ends, turn seam
allowances of sleeves back and pin. Stitch
each side seam from sleeve attachment
seam to lower edge. Remove pins. Stitch
sleeve seams. Trim seam allowances to
1
4"
(6mm) wide, neaten edges together, and
press to one side. Press side seam
allowances open.
Gather lower sleeve edges to: size 72:
12" (30cm); size 76: 12
1
4" (31cm); size
80: 12
3
4" (32cm); size 84: 13" (33cm);
size 88: 13
1
2" (34cm). Stitch sleeve bands
to lower sleeve edges, leaving tie bands
extending evenly at sleeve vents. Press
seam allowances of attachment seams
toward sleeve bands. With right sides
together, fold tie bands lengthwise and
stitch edges together. Trim seam
allowances. Turn tie bands right-side out
and press. Turn inside sleeve band edges
under and sew to attachment seams.
With wrong side facing right side, lay
chiffon skirt over skirt lining. Baste upper
edges together and baste back edges
together, from upper edge to
openingmark. Stitch skirt to bodice. Press
seam allowances up.
edges, above openingmark (see
instructions on page 66). Begin at upper
edge and leave zipper tapes extending at
the top. Clip chiffon seam allowances at
end of opening. Stitch center back seams
on chiffon and lining separately, from lower
edge to zipper opening. Turn top ends of
zipper tapes under and sew to neck edge.
Finish dress and lining hem edges
separately with closely spaced zigzag: Press
hem allowance to wrong side. From right
side, stitch along folded edge with closely
spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim
hem allowances close to stitching.
Blue pattern line, sheet B1-B2
Size 17 3333
Size 18 4444
Size 19 55
Size 20 6666
Size 21 7777
NZ_BS1312_124T
Cutting layouts
Crpe, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Sizes 17 19
Cut from a double layer of fabric right sides
together.
Selvedges
Sizes 17 21
Selvedges
Fold
Fold
Sizes 20, 21
Selvedges
Fold
9cuff, cut 4
a) 2 sleeve vent bias binding strips: 8"
(20cm) long, and 1
1
4" (3cm) wide,
Lining:
1 front, cut 1 on fold
2 front yoke, cut 2
3 back, cut 2
4/6 front skirt lining
5/7 back skirt lining
Interfacing:
Interface outer cuff pieces. Fuse bias stay
tape to wrong sides of shoulder seam
edges of front yokes, neck and armhole
edges, back slit edges, and attachment
edges of skirt yoke pieces.
Construction
Stitch back darts and press toward
center. Stitch bust darts and press down.
Stitch front yokes to front (seam number
1). Stitch side seams and shoulder seams
of bodice. Press seam allowances open.
On front skirt panel, fold inverted pleat
in direction of arrow and baste. Do not
press pleat folds. Stitch side seams on skirt.
Stitch side seams on skirt yoke. Stitch
yoke to skirt (seam number 10), clipping
seam allowance of skirt at center front.
Stitch yoke to bodice (seam number 9),
clipping seam allowance of yoke at
center front. Press seam allowances
toward yoke.
opening edges, above seammark (see
instructions on page 66). Stitch center
back seam from lower edge to zipper.
Stitch lining darts and seams, leaving
opening for zipper.
Neck edge: With right sides together,
pin lining to dress neck edge. At zipper
opening, turn lining back
3
16" (5mm)
before opening edge, and pin to neck
edge. On dress, turn opening edge seam
allowances to outside and pin to neck
edge, over lining. Stitch along neck edge.
Turn opening edge seam allowances to
inside. Turn lining up and understitch
close to seam. Turn lining to inside and
hand-stitch to zipper tapes. Baste lining to
armhole edges.
Cut sleeve vents open asmarked. Spread
cut edges open to a straight line and stitch
to one long edge of binding strip, as
narrowly as possible. Press binding strip
over attachment seam into vent, then fold
to
1
4" (6mm) wide, turn edge under and
sew to attachment seam. On inside top of
vent, stitch diagonally across binding. On
each front vent edge, turn binding to inside
and baste to lower sleeve edge.
Lay sleeve pleats in direction of arrows
and baste. Stitch sleeve seams.
Cuffs: Stitch outer cuff pieces to lower
sleeve edges. Press seam allowances
toward cuffs. Press seam allowance on
upper edge of each inside cuff piece to
inside. With right sides together, stitch
each inside cuff to side and lower edges
of outer cuff. Trim seam allowances. Turn
cuffs right-side out. Baste inside edges in
place. Topstitch cuffs close to attachment
seams. Stitch buttonholes asmarked.
Press hem allowance to inside and
hand-stitch in place. Hem lining
3
4" (2cm)
shorter than dress.
124B-
082014-US
Dress
INSERT SHEET
Green pattern line, sheets C2 and D1-D2
Size 36 AAAAA
Size 38 ===
Size 40 CCC
Size 42 67 67
Size 44 EEEEE
NZ_BS1310_124-1T
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 60
3
4" (68cm)
Sleeves: 3" (7cm) longer than normal
Materials
Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide,
with a pattern repeat of 29
1
4" (74cm):
sizes 36, 38: 3 pattern repeats, 88"
(2.22m); sizes 40, 42, 44: 4 pattern
repeats, 117" (2.96m)
Note: Dress can also bemade from solid
fabric.
zipper, 16" (40cm) long; twin sewing
machine needle
Preparation
Pleat arrows on pieces 21 and 24
aremarked for size 36. For other
sizes,mark pleat arrows between
respective pleat lines.
125-
082014-US
Coat
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1t0qCMU
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42
on page 59
1
2" (95cm)
Sleeve: 2" (5cm) longer than normal
Materials
Brushed wool fabric, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
size 34: 3
1
4yds (2.9m); sizes 36, 38, 40,
42: 3
3
8yds (3m)
Faux shearling, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
7
8yd
(.8m) for all sizes
3
4yds (1.6m)
for all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 large fabric-covered button; 5
large sew-on snap fasteners
Preparation
Lengthen pieces 2 and 7 as indicated.
Trace hem bands from pieces 1 and 2 as
separate pattern pieces. Cut piece 1 apart
Cutting layouts
Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide
Sizes 36, 38
Selvedge
Selvedge
Cut with right side
up on a single
fabric layer. The
pieces shown with
a broken outline
should be placed
on the fabric
printed side facing
down.
Sizes 40 44
Selvedge
Selvedge
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); hem: 1
1
4"
(3cm); sleeve hems: 2" (5cm)
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Fine stretch jersey:
22upper back, cut 1 on fold
23back yoke with sleeve, cut 2
24lower front, cut 1
25lower back, cut 1 on fold
Fuse to wrong side of neck edge on inside
upper front, and to yokes on attachment
and neck edges.
Construction
Note: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with
a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or
with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin
machine needle to keep them flexible.
With right sides together, lay upper
fronts together. Stitch along neck edge.
Trim seam allowances. Lay seam
allowances toward inside piece and
understitch close to seam. Lay pieces
wrong sides together. Baste together along
side and lower edges. Lay pleats in upper
and lower front in direction of arrows and
baste. Stitch darts in upper back pieces. On
outer piece, press dart toward center and
on inside piece, press to the side. With
wrong sides together, baste upper back
pieces together, and treat as one layer for
construction. Stitch darts in lower back.
Press darts toward center.
Sew and attach yoke: Stitch center back
yoke seam. Trim seam allowances to
1
4"
(6mm) wide, neaten edges together and
press to one side. Press seam allowances
on front neck edges of yoke to inside, from
pleat to seam number 1. From right side,
use twin needle to stitch
3
8" (1cm) from
edges. Lay shoulder pleats in direction of
arrows and baste, then baste seam
allowance on back neck edge to inside.
Topstitch
3
8" (1cm) from neck edge with
twin needle catching pleats. In front, stitch
yoke to upper front, from each seam
number 1 to side edge. In back, stitch yoke
to upper back (seam number 2).
Stitch right side seam and sleeve seam on
upper piece as continuous seam. Stitch right
side seam of lower piece. Stitch lower section
to upper section. Press seam allowances up.
Topstitch
3
8" (1cm) on each side of seam.
Sew invisible zipper to left side edges,
between openingmarks (see instructions on
page 66). Stitch left sleeve seam and side
seam as continuous seam to zipper. Stitch
left side seam from lower edge to zipper.
Turn dress and sleeve hem allowances to
inside. From right side, use twin needle to
stitch hems 1" (2.5cm) from lower dress
edge and
5
8" (4cm) from lower sleeve edges.
on themarked seamline tomake front and
front band. Cut piece 2 apart on the marked
seamline tomake back and back yoke. To
cut the lining, tape the cut-apart back pieces
together again. Cut out all paper pieces.
Buttonmarking on piece 1 is for size 34.
For other sizes, remark button according to
size lines. Snap fastenersmarked on piece
7 are for size 34. For other sizes,mark top
snap same distance from upper edge as for
size 34. Bottom snap is same for all sizes.
Space other snaps evenly between.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Brushed wool:
1front, cut 2
1front band, cut 2
2back yoke, cut 1 on fold
3side hood, cut 4
9welt, cut 4
10pocket, cut 2
a) 2 center hood pieces: size 34: 20
3
4"
(52.5cm); size 36: 21" (53cm); size 38:
21
1
4" (54cm); size 40: 21
1
2" (54.5cm);
size 42: 20
3
3
8"
(11cm) wide
b) tie belt: size 34: 61" (155cm); size 36:
63" (160cm); size 38, 40: 65" (165cm);
size 42: 67" (170cm) long, and 4
1
2"
Faux shearling:
1front hem band, cut 2
2back hem band, cut 1 on fold
6sleeve band, cut 4
Lining:
2 back, cut 1 on foldminus neck facing
and with
3
10 pocket, cut 2 to lining line
Interfacing:
Interface hem allowances on wool fabric
pieces.
Construction
Stitch back yoke to back. Press seam
allowances open.
With right sides together and hem band
pointing up, stitch upper edge of back
hem band to back. Lay hem band down
over seam. Baste side and lower edges in
place. Also stitch hem band to hem
allowance, close tomarked hem line.
Stitch front hem bands to fronts in
samemanner.
Sew welt pockets on fronts: With right
sides together, stitch each interfaced welt
to an un-interfaced welt piece, leaving
attachment edge open. Trim seam
allowances. Turn welts right-side out. With
right sides together, stitch welts to fronts
alongmarked attachment lineswelts point
down. Lay each wool pocket piece on
front, opposite welt, and stitch in place,
3
4" (2cm) from welt attachment seam.
This seam should be
5
8" (1.5cm) shorter at
side end than the welt attachment seam.
Slash between stitching lines and clip
diagonally toward each last stitch. Do not
cut into pocket pieces. Pull pocket pieces
to inside and press welts over pocket
openings. Stitch pocket lining pieces to
welt attachment seam allowances. Pull
small triangles of fabric at pocket opening
ends to inside and stitch to pocket pieces.
Trim pocket pieces evenly and stitch
together. Hand-stitch narrow edges of
welts in place.
Stitch front bands to fronts. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch shoulder seams on coat and
facing. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch each side hood piece to center
hood piece. Press seam allowances open.
Cut hood darts along center 3
1
4" (8cm)
long. Stitch outer hood to back neck edge,
beginning and ending exactly at side dart
line. Press seam allowances open. Stitch
lower hood edges to fronts, from seam
number 2 to corner. Clip seam allowance
of fronts into corners. Stitch side hood
edges to front, from corners to shoulder
seam, then continue stitching, to stitch
darts. Press seam allowances of hood
attachment and darts open, pressing
points of darts flat. Stitch inside hood to
facing in samemanner.
coat, pinning hood edges together. Stitch
along front and hood edges. Turn facing to
inside and turn hood right-side out. Pin
hood attachment seams together exactly.
Lay facing forward/up again and understitch
as far as possible, close to hood attachment
seam. Turn facing back in place.
Stitch side seams and sleeve seams.
Stitch seams of sleeve bands. Stitch
outer sleeve band pieces to lower sleeve
edges,matching band seam to front sleeve
seam. Press seam allowances open. With
right sides facing, lay inside bands on
attached bands. Stitch lower edges
together. Turn inside bands to inside. Lay
inside edges of bands over attachment
seams, not turned in. From garment right
side, stitch along seamline, catching inner
edge.
allowance to inside, then turn down again.
Turn facings to inside again.
Sew lining: On lining back, stitch ease
pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5cm)
long, and baste pleat between. Press pleat
to one side. Stitch lining seams. Set in
sleeve linings.
Sew in lining; hem: With right sides
edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining
inside coat, pulling linings into sleeves.
Turn hem allowance to inside and hand-
stitch in place. Turn lining edge under
along hem edge and press fold lightly.
Push upward in a shallow curve and pin to
hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in
place. Lay extra length of lining down and
press lightly. On each sleeve, turn lining
edge under and hand-stitch to hem
allowance. Lay extra length down and
press. Turn edges of sleeve linings under
and hand-stitch to inner band edges.
lengthwise. Trim ends at an angle. Stitch
edges together, leaving a section of seam
open for turning. Turn belt right-side out.
Sew seam opening closed.
top halves of snaps to right front facing
asmarked. Take even stitches and exit
needle on right side of fabric. Lay coat
closed.mark positions of bottom halves of
snaps on left front. Sew on bottom halves
of snaps. Sew large button to right front
asmarked.
center back seam on trousers and
waistband. Press seam open from upper
edge to beginning of curve. In front, turn
inside waistband edge under 2" (5cm)
long, and baste. Lay remaining edge flat
over attachment seam. From right side,
stitch along attachment seam, catching
inner edge. Stitch buttonhole in right
waistband end. Stitch buttonhole for
inside button in left waistband end.
Interfacing:
Construction
Stretch seam edges: With right sides
together, lay back trouser pieces together.
Press inside leg edges above seammark,
until theymatch corresponding edge of
front trouser piece.
Hip yoke pockets: With right sides
together, stitch pocket pieces to pocket
opening edges of front trousers. Turn
pockets up and understitch close to
seams. Turn pocket pieces to inside. Pin
pocket opening edges to side hip yokes at
placement lines. On inside, stitch pocket
pieces together. Baste pocket pieces to
wrong side of trouser fronts, first
trimming away allowance of right pocket
piece along center front.
Stitch darts in back trouser pieces. Press
darts toward center.
Stitch side seams and inside leg seams.
Zipper: Press self-facings on opening
edges to inside. Stitch along center front
on right and stitch
3
16" (5mm) before
center front on left. Stitch zipper under
left opening edge (underlap), close to
teeth. Pin opening closed,matching
center fronts. Stitch loose zipper tape to
right facing, leaving trouser free. Baste
facing in place. Topstitch opening from
upper edge to 1
1
4" (3cm) before end
asmarked. With right side together, fold
underlap lengthwise and stitch across
bottom end. Turn right-side out. Lay
underlap under left opening edge and pin
to opening facing. Stitch facing to
underlap, close to zipper attachment
seam. Lay opening closed again and
topstitch to end, catching underlap.
Waistband and center back seam:
Stitch side seams on waistband units.
Stitch outer waistband units to upper
trouser edges, leaving right waistband
end extending past center front. Stitch
left waistband end to underlap. Press
attachment seam allowances toward
waistband units. Trim extending right
waistband end to
5
8" (1.5cm) before
center front. With right sides together,
lay inside waistband units on attached
outer waistband units, and pin edges
together. Stitch across front waistband
ends and along upper waistband edges.
Trim seam allowances, trimming corners
diagonally. In back, turn inside waistband
units up and press upper waistband
seams open 4" (10cm) long. Stitch
127A-
082014-US
Trousers
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1phEGS1
Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 61
Finished side length: 42" (106cm)
Waistband sits
3
8" (1cm) below natural
waistline
Materials
Stretch gabardine, 60" (150cm) wide: size
36: 1
5
8yds (1.40m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44:
1
7
8yd (1.7m)
Lining, for pocket, 12" 18" (30 45cm)
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper, 7" (16cm) long; 1
button, 1 flat inside button
Preparation
Note hem lines for view A. Trace pocket
piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern
piece. Cut out all paper pieces.
for size 36. For other sizes, lay facing on
front edge andmark inside edge as
stitching line.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Stretch gabardine:
126A-
082014-US
Trousers
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1mbFasn
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
on page 56
Finished side length, including waistband:
45" (115cm)
Note: These trousers are cut wider at the
waistband to allow them to slip down during
wear. If you dont want this to happen, try
on the trousers andmake trousers and
waistband fit correspondingly tighter.
Materials
Stretch suedecloth, 60" (152.5cm) wide:
sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 1
3
4yds (1.6m); sizes
42, 44: 2
1
2yds (2.15m)
Lining, for pocket pieces, 12" 20" (30
50cm)
Interfacing
Notions: 1 zipper, 7" long; 1 button; 1 flat
inside button
Preparation
Lengthen pieces 1 and 3 as indicated.
Trace pocket piece from piece 1 as a
pieces.
for size 34. For sizes 36 - 44,mark
stitching line same distance from center
front asmarked for size 34, noting
opening length.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Stretch suedecloth:
2side hip yoke with pocket, cut 2
4front waistband, cut 4
5back waistband, cut 4
a) left underlap piece: sizes 34, 36, 38, 40:
6
3
4" (17cm); sizes 42, 44: 7
1
2" (19cm)
long, and 3" (7cm) wide, excluding seam
allowances
Lining:
1pocket, cut 2
22side hip yoke with
pocket, cut 2
24waistband, cut 4
25right opening facing, cut 1,
and as underlap, cut 2
Lining:
21 pocket, cut 2
Interfacing:
Fuse interfacing to wrong side of right
opening facing piece.
Construction
Stretch seam edges: With right sides
together, lay back trouser pieces together.
Press inside leg edges above seammark,
until theymatch corresponding edge of
front trouser piece.
Stitch back darts. Press darts toward
center back.
Hip yoke pockets: See style
126A-082014-US, but do not trim away
front seam allowance of right pocket
piece.
Stitch side seams and inside leg seams.
Press seam allowances open. Stitch center
front seam from openingmark to inside
leg seam.
Zipper: With right sides together, stitch
right opening facing to right opening edge.
Turn facing to inside and press edge. Press
allowance on left opening edge (underlap)
to inside,
3
16" (5mm) before center front.
Stitch zipper under edge, close to teeth. Pin
opening closed, matching center fronts.
Stitch loose zipper tape to right facing,
leaving trouser free. Baste facing in place.
Topstitch opening from upper edge to 1
1
4"
(3cm) before end asmarked. Stitch
underlap pieces together along curved long
edge. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap
under left opening edge and pin to seam
allowance. Stitch opening edge seam
allowance to underlap, close to zipper
attachment seam. Close zipper. Topstitch to
end of opening, catching underlap.
Waistband and center back: Stitch outer
waistband pieces to upper trouser edges,
leaving right waistband end extending past
center front. Stitch left waistband end to
opening underlap and leave remainder
extending. Press attachment seam
allowances toward waistband pieces. Trim
extending right waistband end to
5
8"
(1.5cm) before center front. With right
sides together, lay inside waistband pieces
on attached outer waistband pieces, and
pin edges together. On lower edges of front
waistband ends, turn seam allowances up
and pin. Stitch across front waistband ends
and along upper waistband edges. Trim
seam allowances, trimming corners
diagonally. Turn waistband sections right-
side out. In back, turn inside waistband up
again and press seams on upper waistband
edges open 4" (10cm) long. Stitch center
back seam on trousers and waistband. Press
seam open from upper edge to beginning
of curve. Do not press allowances flat along
curve. In front, turn inside waistband edge
under, as far as zipper. Lay remaining edge
flat over attachment seam. Sew underlap
edges together. From right side, stitch along
waistband attachment seam, catching inner
edge. Stitch buttonhole in right waistband
end. Stitch buttonhole for inside button in
left waistband end.
134-
082014-US
Blouse
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1gUSqmc
Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52
on page 37
Materials
Black Duchesse satin, 60" (152.5cm)
wide: size 44: 3yds (2.7m); size 46, 48,
50, 52: 3
1
8yds (2.8m)
White Duchesse satin, 60" (152.5cm)
wide:
3
Interfacing
Notions: 4 sew-on snap fasteners
Preparation
piece 2 apart on the marked seamline to
create upper and lower left front pieces.
Cut all paper pieces. Pleat arrows on
pieces 2, 3, 4, and 7 are marked for size
44. For other sizes, mark pleat arrows
between respective pleat lines. Snap
fasteners marked on piece 2 are for size
44. For other sizes, remark snaps
according to size lines.
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm);
3
4" (2cm)
on lower edge of piece 2; 1
5
8" (4cm) for
hem on peplum and sleeves
Cutting
Black satin:
1right front, cut 1
2lower left front, cut 1
3right back, cut 1
4left back, cut 1
5right front peplum, cut 2
6left front peplum, cut 2
7back peplum, cut 2 on fold
10right front facing, cut 1
12back facing, cut 1
White satin:
2upper left front, cut 1
11left front facing, cut 1
Interfacing:
Construction
open. Lay pleats in back in direction of
arrows and baste.
Stitch dart in upper left front. Press dart
down. Stitch upper left front to lower left
front. Press seam allowances open.
Work from inside to stitch pleats in
fronts, as far as each arrowmarking. Lay
pleats in direction of arrows and baste.
Stitch shoulder seams on blouse and
facings. Stitch side seams. Press seam
allowances open.
Stitch side seams on outside and inside
peplum pieces. Lay peplum pieces right
sides together. Stitch along front edges.
Trim seam allowances. Turn peplum right-
side out and press edges. Baste upper
edges together. Neaten hem edges
together. Press hem allowance to inside
and hand-stitch in place. Lay pleats in
upper peplum edge in direction of arrows
and baste.
Stitch peplum to lower front and back
edges from seam number 9 to seam
number 10, clipping seam allowance of
left front into corner; seam allowances of
fronts extend in front. Press seam
allowances up.
With right sides together, lay facing on
fronts and back, and pin in place. On left
front, turn lower edge seam allowance to
outside and pin to front edge. Stitch along
front and neck edges. Trim seam
allowances, trimming corners diagonally.
Turn facing and left front seam allowance
to inside on lower edge. Press edges.
Hand-stitch hem allowance in place. Sew
inside facing edge to seams.
allowances to inside and hand-stitch in
place.
Sew 2 upper snap halves to inside of
right front edge. Lay right front over left
front, so that right front edgemeets
attachment seam of peplum and neck
edgemeets placement line.Mark positions
of lower snap halves on left front. Sew
lower snap halves in place asmarked.
Fasten front edge of left front to inside of
right side seam with 2 snaps.
135-
082014-US
Blouse
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52
on page 36
Materials
Jacquard with a 28" (70cm) pattern
repeat, 54" (137cm) wide: 3
7
8yds (3.5m)
for all sizes
Note: Top can also bemade in solid or
overall print fabric.
Interfacing
Notions: 4 sew-on snap fasteners
Preparation
137-
082014-US
Jacket
DOWNLOAD AT:
Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52
on page 35
1
2" (67cm)
Materials
Taupe crpe, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 44,
46: 1
7
8yds (1.7m); size 48: 2yds (1.75m);
sizes 50, 52: 2
1
4yds (2m)
Black crpe, 54" (137cm)
7
8yd (.7m) for
all sizes
5
8yds
Black pattern line, sheets C1-C2
and D1
Size 44 3333
Size 46 4444
Size 48 55
Size 50 6666
Size 52 7777
NZ_BS1310_135T
Fold fabric as shown in the cutting layoutright sides together on a double layer; right
side up on a single layer. Lay the asymmetric pieces on the right side of fabric with
printed pattern sides up.Match pattern repeats.
Pleat arrows on pieces 2, 3, 4, and 7
aremarked for size 44. For other
sizes,mark pleat arrows between
respective pleat lines. Snap fasteners
marked on piece 2 are for size 44. For
other sizes, remark snaps according to
size lines.
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm);
3
4" (2cm)
on lower edge of piece 2; 1
5
8" (4cm) for
hem on peplum and sleeves
Cutting
Jacquard:
1right front, cut 1
2left front, cut 1
3right back, cut 1
4left back, cut 1
5right front peplum, cut 2
6left front peplum, cut 2
7back peplum, cut 2 on fold
11left front facing, cut 1
12back facing, cut 1
Interfacing:
Construction
See style 134-082014-US, omitting left
front section seam.
Cutting layout
Jacquard, 54" (137cm) wide
Selvedges
Selvedge
Fold
Interfacing
Notions: 2 large sew-on snap fasteners,
shoulder pads
Preparation
Cutting
Taupe fabric:
1front, cut 2
2center back, cut 2
3side back, cut 2
5peplum front, cut 2
6center back peplum, cut 1 on fold
7side back peplum, cut 2
Black fabric:
4collar, cut 4
Lining:
1 front, to lining line, cut 2
2 center back,minus width of facing and
with
3
3 side back, cut 2
5 peplum front, to lining line, cut 2
6 center back peplum, cut 1 on fold
7 side back peplum, cut 2
Interfacing:
Also interface hem allowances of sleeves.
Construction
Stitch center back seam, back section
seams, side seams, and shoulder seams.
Gather lower edges of front and back
pieces between asterisks.
Stitch back section seams and side
seams of peplum. Press seam allowances
open. Stitch peplum to front and back
pieces. Press seam allowances up.
Stitch center back collar seams. With
right sides together, stitch collar pieces
along outer edges. Trim seam allowances.
Turn collar right-side out and press. Baste
collar edges together to neck edge.
Facing: Stitch facing shoulder seams.
With right sides together and collar
between, pin facing to jacket. Stitch along
hem edge, front edges, and neck edge. On
hem edge leave the last 1
1
4" (3cm) open
before facing ends. Turn facing to inside
and turn hem allowance to inside. Press
edges. Hand-stitch hem allowance in
place. At neck edge, turn facing up
forward/up and understitch as far as
possible, close to seam.
allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps. Sew
shoulder pads in place.
Sew lining: On center back lining
pieces, stitch center seam together,
3
8"
(1cm) from edge. For the ease pleat, stitch
along center back, at top and bottom for
2" (5cm), and baste between. Press pleat
to one side. Gather lining pieces and stitch
together as for crpe jacket.
Sew lining in place: Stitch lining to
inside facing edge, turning lower facing
edges down to do so. With wrong sides
together, lay lining inside jacket, pulling
linings into sleeves. Turn lining edge under
along lower jacket edge, press fold lightly,
and push upward in a shallow curve. Pin
lining to hem allowance. Hand-stitch
remaining open facing edges and lining to
hem allowance. Lay extra length of lining
down and press lightly. Turn edges of
sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to
HELPFUL HINT
For each snap half, cut a small circle of lining fabric
slightly larger than the snap half (1). Sew a line of short
running stitches along the edge of the lining piece (2)
and do not cut thread. Lay the snap half face down on
the lining circle wrong side. Pull the thread so that the
lining covers the snap smoothly. Use the thread to sew
the edges of the lining together, with crisscross stitches
(3). Hide the thread end securely.
Cover snap fasteners with lining
1
2
3
hem allowances. Lay extra length of lining
down and press.
needle on right fabric side. Lay jacket
closed,matching center fronts.mark
positions of lower snap halves on left front.
Sew lower snap halves in place asmarked.
138-
082014-US
Wrap Skirt
DOWNLOAD AT:
http://bit.ly/1vOAzRT
Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52
on page 35
1
4" (64cm)
Waistband sits at normal waistline
Materials
Silk velvet, 45" (114.5cm) wide: 1
3
4yds
Crpe, 54" (137cm) wide:
7
8yd (.7m) for
all sizes
Interfacing
Notions: 1 large sew-on snap fastener,
1 flat inside button
Preparation
Trace the facing from piece 21 as a
pieces.
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); inside
facing edge:
3
8" (1cm); hem (pieces 22
and 23): 1
5
8" (4cm)
Cutting
Velvet:
21right front skirt panel, cut 1
22left front skirt panel, cut 1
23back skirt panel, cut 2
Crpe:
a) waistband, with 3
3
4" (9.5cm) each for
overlap and underlap: size 44: 41" (104 cm);
size 46: 42
1
2" (108cm); size 48: 45"
(114cm); size 50: 47
1
4" (120cm); size 52:
49
3
4" (126cm) long, and 2" (5cm) wide,
Interfacing:
Construction
allowances open.
With right sides together, pin front
facing to right front skirt panel. Stitch
along hem and front edge. Turn facing
over seam allowances and understitch
close to seam. Turn facing to inside and
baste to upper edge.
Stitch right side seam, turning facing on
lower edge of skirt front down again to do
so. Stitch left side seam. Press seam
allowances open.
Turn front facing to inside again and
press hem allowance to inside. Hand-stitch
139-
082014-US
Long Top
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52
on page 34
1
2" (100cm)
Sleeves: 1
5
8" (4cm) shorter than normal
Materials
Stretch lam, 40" (100cm) wide: 3yds
Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5cm) wide, for
hem band:
3
Notions: Fusible bias stay tape, twin
Preparation
Seams and edges:
5
8" (1.5cm); hem on
hem band: 1
1
4" (3cm); sleeve hems:
3
4"
(2cm)
Cutting
in cutting layout and pin in place. Cut the
Stretch lam:
2back with integrated sleeve, cut 2
a) bias facing strip: sizes 44, 46: 13"
(33cm); sizes 48, 50: 13
1
2" (34cm); size
52: 13
3
5
8" (4cm)
wide, including seam allowances
Stretch jersey:
Hem band, size 44: 34" (86cm); size 46:
35
1
2" (90cm); size 48: 37
3
4" (96cm); size
50: 40
1
4" (102cm); size 52: 42
1
2"
(108cm) long, and 8
3
8" (21cm) wide
Fuse to wrong side of neck edge and
sleeve attachment edges of back pieces (as
far as seam number 3).
Construction
Stitch bust darts in front. Press darts
down.
Front neck edge: With wrong sides
together, fold and press facing strip
lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to front
HELPFUL HINT
A wide variety of velvet is available todaysilk velvet, cotton velvet, corduroy velvet, pann velvet or
stretch velvet. The care of these different fabrics varies greatly as does their handling during sewing. Ask
about the fiber content and care of your fabric at purchase. Remember the following information when
working with velvet:
Velvet should not be stored flat. It is better to
hang the fabric by attaching the selvedges to a
clothes hanger.
On delicate velvet, do not rip finished seams
since needle holes are permanent. We recommend
firstmaking the garment from inexpensive cotton.
Then transfer any required alterations to the paper
pattern before cutting out the velvet.
The color of velvet fabrics will be deeper
andmore intense when the fabric is cut against the
nap. Run your hand over the fabric to determine
the nap direction. The pile will lie flat when stroked
with the nap and will be raised when stroked
against the nap. The direction of the nap is noted
on the pattern layout. Place all pattern pieces for
one garment on the fabric in the same direction.
Should the pile fibers come off the cut edges of
the fabric, neaten the edges immediately after
cutting.
Use tailors tacks tomark velvet. Use fine
thread to hand-baste long stitches on a double
layer of fabric, along the edge of the pattern piece,
leaving a loop of thread in back of each stitch. Pull
the fabric layers apart and carefully clip the threads
between the layers.
Use only a fine needle and thread for basting.
Also use a fine sewingmachine needle with a
sharp point.
To prevent velvet from slipping during
stitching, insert the pins across the seamline and
then stitch slowly up to them and remove. If
your velvet has a deep pile, baste on each side of
the seamline. It is important to stitch all seams in
the same direction.
Choose an ironing temperature based on the
fiber content. As a rule, press only from the wrong
side and always test press a scrap of fabric first.
Cotton velvet can be steamed at a wool setting.
Velvetmade from of silk, rayon or synthetic fibers
should be pressed with low heat (setting for
synthetics/silk) and without steam. Glide the iron
over the fabric without pressure to prevent the pile
from flattening. It is imperative that any pressing is
done on a soft, textured surface. We recommend
covering your ironing surface with a piece of velvet
(pile side up) or with a thick terry cloth towel.
Special surfaces for pressing velvet are available at
fabric stores.
Sew-in interfacings are best for velvet. Use
organza to interface delicate velvets.
Velvet
facing and hem allowance in place. Press
seam allowance on left front skirt panel
front edge to inside and stitch in place.
Gather upper edge of each skirt panel
between asterisks to: size 44: 7
1
2" (19cm);
size 46: 8" (20cm); size 48: 8
1
2" (21.5cm);
size 50: 9
1
8" (23cm); size 52: 9
3
4" (24.5cm).
Lay pleats in right skirt front in direction of
arrows and baste to upper edge.
press waistband in half lengthwise. Unfold
waistband again. Stitch waistband to
upper skirt edge. Press seam allowances of
attachment seam toward waistband. Fold
waistband lengthwise, right sides together.
On waistband ends, turn seam allowance
on inside waistband edge up. Stitch across
waistband ends. Turn waistband right-side
out. Turn inside waistband edge under and
baste over attachment seam. From outer
side of skirt, stitch along attachment seam.
Stitch a buttonhole for inside button in
left waistband end. Sew top half of snap to
underside of right waistband end, taking
even regular stitches and exiting needle on
right side of waistband. Sew lower snap half
to left waistband end tomatch.
neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies
on garment piece,
3
8" (1cm) past
seamline. Stitch along neck edge
seamline. Trim seam allowances and clip
at center front. Turn facing strip to inside
and press edge. Topstitch
1
4" (6mm) from
neck edge.
Stitch center back seam. Neaten seam
allowances together and press to one side.
Stitch sleeves to front (seam number 1).
Press seam allowances toward sleeves.
Press seam allowances on remaining neck
edges to inside, turn in, and stitch
1
4"
(6mm) from edge.
continuous seams. Trim seam allowances,
neaten together, and press toward back.
Press sleeve hem allowances to inside,
turn in, and baste. From right side, use
twin needle to stitch hem in place.
Stitch narrow edges of hem band
together. Placing the band seam at the top
right side seam, stitch hem band to lower
front and back edges, stretching edges
tomatch. Press hem allowance to inside.
From right side, use twin needle to stitch
hem 1" (2.5cm) from lower edge.
Green pattern line, sheets B1-B2
Size 44 3333
Size 46 4444
Size 48 55
Size 50 6666
Size 52 7777
NZ_BS1310_139T
When working with shiny fabric, all
pattern pieces should be cut in the
same direction. Cut the front first from
a double layer of fabric, right sides
together. Cut remaining fabric apart to
half the length. Lay both fabric pieces
right sides together, in same direction
as the front piece was cut, to cut out
back piece.
140-
082014-US
Leather
trousers
INSERT SHEET
Burda sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52
on page 34
Side length below waistband: 40
3
4"
(103cm)
Waistband sits at normal waistline
Materials
Stretch nappa leather. Tomake this style in
size 46, you will need 4 leather skins with
a total of 33 sq. ft. (1 sq. ft. = 30 30cm).
Please ask your leather dealer about
requirements for larger sizes since leather
skins can vary greatly. We recommend
taking the paper pattern with you when
buying the leather.
Alternative: Stretch imitation leather, 54"
(137cm) wide: 1
3
Selvedges
Cutting layout
Stretch lam, 40" (100cm) wide
Selvedges
Selvedges
Fold
C
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d
g
e
s
Red pattern line, sheets A1-A2
Size 44 AAAAA
Size 46 ===
Size 48 CCC
Size 50 67 67
Size 52 EEEEE
NZ_BS1310_140T
Stretch lining, 54" (135cm) wide: sizes 44,
46: 1
3
4yds (1.6m); size 48: 2
1
8yds
(1.9m); sizes 50, 52: 2
1
4yds (2.05m)
Fusible interfacing for leather
Notions: 1 zipper: 7" (18cm) long, 1
trouser hook and bar set, 1 flat inside
button, textile adhesive, glue stick
Notes on leather (or imitation leather): We
recommend that you firstmake the garment
from inexpensive cotton fabric. Then transfer
any required alterations to the paper pattern
before cutting out the leather. Avoid basting
leather and ripping seams since the needle
holes are permanent. Press leather from the
wrong side (cover with a pressing cloth), at
amoderate temperature and without steam.
Test press a scrap of the leather first.
Preparation
Cut pieces 21 and 22 apart onmarked
seamline. Tape these pieces together
again to cut lining.
Stitching line at zipper opening is marked
for size 44. For sizes 46-52, mark stitching
line same distance from center front as for
size 44, noting length of opening.
Cutting
numbered pieces:
Leather/imitation leather:
21front trouser, divided, cut 2
22back trouser, divided, cut 2
a) right waistband: size 44: 16
3
4"
(42.5cm); size 46: 17
1
2" (44.5cm); size
48: 18
3
4" (47.5cm); size 50: 20"
(50.5cm); size 52: 21
1
8" (53.5cm) long;
left waistband with 2" (5cm) underlap,
size 44: 18
3
4" (47.5cm); size 46: 19
1
2"
(49.5cm); size 48: 20
3
4" (52.5cm); size
50: 22" (55.5cm); size 52: 23
1
8"
(58.5cm) long, and each 2" (5cm) wide,
b) left underlap piece, sizes 44, 46, 48:
6
3
4" (17cm); sizes 50, 52: 7
1
2" (19cm)
long, and 2
1
seam allowances
Lining:
21 front trouser (whole), cut 2
22 back trouser (whole), cut 2
Interfacing:
Cut from shaded area on pattern layout.
Construction
Stitch darts in front and back trouser
pieces. Cut each dart open along center to
1
1
4" (3cm) above point. Press dart open
and glue dart allowances in place with
textile adhesive. Press dart points flat.
Stitch horizontal seams on front and
back trouser pieces. Spread seam
allowances open. Topstitch close to each
side of seams.
Stitch side seams. Stitch inside leg
seams, slightly stretching back trouser
pieces. Spread seam allowances open and
glue in place.
Stitch center front seam from
openingmark to inside leg seam.
Zipper: Shorten zipper if needed. Press
self-facings on opening edges to inside.
Stitch along center front on right and
stitch
3
16" (5mm) before center front on
the left. Stitch zipper under left opening
edge (underlap), stitching close to teeth.
Pin opening closed,matching center
fronts. Stitch loose zipper tape to right
facing, leaving trouser piece free. Glue
right facing in place with glue stick. With
wrong sides together, fold underlap
lengthwise, and stitch across bottom end.
Lay underlap under left opening edge and
glue to facing with glue stick. Stitch
opening facing to underlap, close to zipper
attachment seam. On right front trouser
piece, topstitch opening edge asmarked,
from upper edge to 1
1
4" (3cm) before
end. Lay opening closed and topstitch to
end, catching underlap.
Waistband and center back seam: With
wrong sides together, fold each waistband
piece in half lengthwise and press upper
waistband edge. Unfold waistband pieces
again. Stitch right and left waistbands to
upper trouser edges, stitching waistband
underlap to trouser underlap piece and
leaving remainder of waistband underlap
extending. Press seam allowances toward
waistband pieces. Stitch center back seam
on trousers and waistband. Spread seam
allowances open from upper edge to
beginning of curve, and glue in place with
textile adhesive. Attach trouser hook to
inside half of right waistband,
3
4" (1cm)
from end. Right sides together, fold
waistband at each end. Stitch across right
waistband end. On left end underlap, turn
seam allowances down again. Stitch along
lower underlap edge and across end. Turn
waistband right-side out. Turn inside
waistband edge under and baste in place
2" (5cm) long. Lay remaining edge flat
over attachment seam. From right side,
stitch along attachment seam. Attach
fastener bar to waistband, to match hook
location. Stitch a buttonhole for inside
button in left waistband end. Sew button
to inside waistband.
Stitch darts and seams of lining, leaving
opening
3
4" (2cm) longer than on main
fabric. Stitch lining to lower waistband
edge as far as possible, matching side
seams. Pull lining into trousers. At zipper
opening, turn lining edges under and pin
to zipper tape on the right and to underlap
attachment seam on the left. Hand-stitch
remaining opening edges of lining to
waistband. Sew lining opening edges in
place 4
3
4" (12cm) long and leave
remainder loose.
Turn hem allowances to inside and glue
in place with textile adhesive. Turn lining
hem under and hand-stitch in place so
lining is
3
4" (2cm) shorter than trousers.
Cutting layouts
Stretch nappa leather
Since leather skins can vary greatly, no pattern layout is given for the leather.
Alternative:
Stretch imitation leather, 54" (137cm) wide
Sizes 44 52
Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together.
Sizes 44, 46 Sizes 48 52
Selvedges Selvedges
Fold Fold
Selvedges
Fold
sewing basics
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Detailed Hand-Sewing
Sometimes you have to step away from the machine for accuracy and precision
BY AMANDA KAUFMANN
DOING IT RIGHT
THE FINE POINT
Hand-sewing needles come in different
sizes and shapes designed for various types
of sewing. The needle type is defined by
its length, the size and shape of its eye,
and whether the point is sharp or blunt.
All-purpose needles are meant for most
projects, and theyre medium length and
sharp. Short needles are used for hand
quilting, hemming, and other finishing
techniques, while longer needles are used
for basting, embroidery, and darning. Needle
thickness corresponds to the weight of the
fabric, with thin needles meant for light- to
medium-weight fabrics, and thick needles
designed for upholstery and other heavy
QUALITY AND CONTROL
So why sew by hand when you have a
perfectly good sewing machine? One
reason: hand-sewing gives you more
control. This comes in handy if youre
trying to make a hem actually invisible, if
youre sewing very narrow pieces of fabric,
if youre shaping a garment, or if you just
need your stitches to be as precise as
possible. Plus, hand stitches are less likely
to leave a mark on fragile fabrics if you
need to take them out.
There are also times when hand sewing
may be the preferred option, such as when
attaching hook and eyes and shank buttons,
adding beading and other embellishments,
and showcasing embroidery designs.
Hand sewing is also portable you can
do it anywhere.
fabrics. Wider or longer needle eyes allow
for thicker thread types, including upholstery
thread, embroidery floss, and yarn for
crewelwork.
PROPER PREPARATION
When youre getting ready to start hand-
sewing, its best to sit with the bulk of your
fabric resting on a table in front of you. If
youre right-handed, you want to hold the
fabric edge with your left hand and the
needle in your right hand. As you sew, you
will most likely move from right to left,
depending on the stitch. The opposite is true
if you are left-handed.
To thread your needle, insert one end of
thread through the eye and pull through the
length that you estimate you will need for
your project. Work with a reasonable length
BS_SewingBasics_Fall14.indd 101 7/21/14 5:51 PM
sewing basics
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of thread if its too long, it can knot and
tangle. Although not always convenient,
theres nothing wrong with rethreading
mid-seam.
If you are sewing double-threaded
stitches, bring the ends of the thread
together and tie them into an overhand knot.
If sewing with a single strand of thread,
make sure that the short end of the thread is
at least 5 (12.5 cm) out of the needles eye
to prevent it from falling out while sewing.
You can either tie a knot at the end of the
long length of thread, or you can secure
the thread to the fabric by making several
stitches on top of each other. Dont be
afraid to leave a thread tail coming out of
your knotjust cut it away after you start
sewing.
HAND-SEWING STITCHES
BASIC STITCHES
The most basic stitch is the running stitch.
It is used to piece fabric together as well as
for embroidery. After knotting on (securing
the end of the thread to the fabric), insert
the tip of the needle into the fabric 1/8
(3 mm) away and bring the needle point
back up through the fabric another 1/8 (3
mm) from there, (6 mm) away from the
starting point. Pull through and repeat.
The backstitch is a variation of the
running stitch, but is much stronger. After
knotting on, pick up a 1/8 (3 mm) stitch.
Pull the thread all the way through and
insert the needle into the fabric 1/8 (3 mm)
back (at your starting point). Pull the thread
through and insert the needle into the fabric
1/8 (3 mm) ahead of all stitches, which is
(6 mm) from the current thread position.
To repeat, pull through and insert the needle
1/8 (3 mm) behind.
The whipstitch is another basic variant
of the running stitch and is useful for joining
two edges of fabric together, either for a
very small seam allowance or for mending a
hole in ones clothes. It can also be sewn on
the right side of the fabric as a decorative
way to join seams. Knot-on and insert the
needle from underneath, going through all
layers of fabric until the needle comes out of
the top fabric layer. Pull through and repeat
by bringing the needle back to the bottom
layer and inserting it 1/16 (2 mm) from
where it was before, pulling through to the
top layer. When using heavier threads, space
stitches farther apart.
TEMPORARY STITCHES
Temporary stitches are divided into two
categories: basting and marking stitches.
A basting stitch is meant to hold pieces
of fabric together to check a garments
fit or to keep them in the right position
during construction. Hand basting stitches
can also be used instead of pins when
designing on a dress form as it allows
you to take the garment easily on and off
the dress form and reduces pinholes. A
marking stitch, such as thread tracing or
tailor's tacks, is used to show where pieces
of fabric meet, such as pleats, tucks, and
seam edges as well as dart and buttonhole
"Use fusible web to quickly attach facings
to seamlines, like at shoulders,
waistlines, and other turn-backs. Just
cut a small square, insert it between
the layers, and fuse." IINnA 1uuNIu
cuIIIN1uoc, 1IcuNIcAI InI1ou
FROM THE EDITOR
Threadless
"sewing"
If you dont have the patience or
the time to hand-sew a hem or
baste fabric pieces together, and
you just need a quick and simple
(often temporary) solution, there
are myriad no-sew products you
can choose from, each suited to
different purposes.
FUSIBLE WEB
Available in rolls of various widths,
pre-cut sheets, and by the yard,
fusible web bonds two pieces of
fabric together when inserted
between them and ironed. Use this
for fast hemming, securing trims,
and appliquing.
FUSIBLE ADHESIVE
Like fusible web except in sheet
form, fusible adhesive can turn any
fabric into an interfacing, or it can
be trimmed to shape for appliqu
work.
FABRIC GLUE
Fabric glue can be temporary or
permanent, so check the label.
Use it to attach beads, sequins,
and other embellishments to
garments. Its also great for
holding appliqu edges in
place for hand stitching,
and holding notions,
like buttons, in
place for stitching.
Available in liquid and
stick form.
FRAY PREVENTER
Fray preventer is liquid and
designed to stop fabric edges and
threads from fraying.
Like all sewing products, be sure
to follow the manufacturers
instructions for use.
1 2
Running stitch
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placements. Consider them the thread
version of a marking pencil.
Basting and thread tracing are both
simply running stitches, but with longer
stitch lengths for speed and ease of removal.
To thread trace, follow the lines that you
would mark with a pencil through a single
layer of fabric using a thread color that will
be easily visible. You may also baste two
layers together, such as the fashion fabric
and underlining, to save some time.
Tailors tacks mark your fabric using
thread. They mark two layers of fabric
simultaneously while they are still attached
to the pattern piece, and theyre also
suitable for marking fabrics such as whites
or very delicate sheers, where other marking
methods may damage the fabric. To do a
tailors tack, take a doubled length of thread,
unknotted, and enter through the pattern
piece at the desired point, going through all
layers of fabric and leaving a 1 (2.5 cm) tail
of thread. Reinsert the needle 1/8 (3 mm)
away into the bottom layer of the fabric,
pulling through all layers to the top. Repeat
the first step, making sure to leave a 1-2
(2.5-5 cm) thread loop on top (i.e. dont pull
tight). Then, repeat the second step so that
you end up with a thread loop that connects
all layers. Cut the top loop and gently pull off
the pattern piece. Separate the fabric layers
enough to snip the threads between, making
sure not to pull the fabric off of the tailors
tack on either side.
INVISIBLE STITCHES
The blind hem stitch is used for hemming
tailored garments, making the hem secure
on the inside and invisible on the right
side, as its name suggests. Press under
the hem allowance, turn under the edge
1/4 (6 mm) and knot-on within the hem
seam allowance. Insert the needle into the
garment, picking up only a couple of the
fabrics threads. Then, insert the needle
into the hem folded edge, travel through the
fold (6 mm) to (1.3 cm), and bring
the needle out of the fold. To repeat, pick
up a couple threads of the garment fabric
where you exited the fold and continue
around the entire hem.
The slipstitch is like the blind hem
except that it is worked from the right
side of the garment (like when closing a
hole in a seam, or attaching a facing to a
zipper tape). Knot-on to the folded seam
allowance of one piece of fabric, and insert
the needle into the other piece of fabric,
making a running stitch (6 mm) in the
folded-under seam allowance. If the second
piece doesnt have a folded-under seam
allowance (like on a zipper tape), just make
sure that the stitch runs underneath the
first fabric layer so that it wont show on
the right side. Pull the thread through and
insert the needle directly back into the first
folded-under seam allowance, repeating
until done.
The blind catchstitch is a variation of
the blind hem that provides stretch and
more durability through its crisscross
movements. It is particularly good for
hemming heavy fabrics or fabrics with a
bit of stretch. Knot-on to the hem seam
allowance. Insert the needle into the
garment (1.3 cm) away, pointing the
tip back towards the starting point and
picking up a few threads. Pull through
and cross back to the forward direction,
inserting the needle into the hem (2
cm) to 1 (2.5 cm) from original starting
point. With the needle in the hem, change
direction and make a (1.3 cm) stitch in
the opposite direction, towards the starting
point. Pull through, change direction, and
insert needle into the garment, picking up a
couple of threads.
AMANDA KAUFMANN
is a New York-based
writer and editor. Since
2006, Amanda has
worked as a freelance
reporter, freelance
columnist, book editor, website
content editor, proofreader, and
fact-checker. She is constantly in the
pursuit of learning something new,
and loves to share what she has
learned with others. Amanda also
writes for LoveSewing.com.
columnist, book editor, website
Keeping your
needles sharp
You know that little strawberry dangling from the top of your
tomato pincushion? Thats not just for decoration its for
sharpening your pins and needles! Simply push them through the
emery-flled strawberry several times to sharpen the points.
Tailior's tack
2 3
Blind catchstitch
sewing basics
1 4
1
2
3
Blind hem stitch
machine master
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Look at your sewing machine and youll likely see
some stitches you havent used. Beyond the basics
that work for everyday sewing, depending on the
model, there may be stitches awaiting your creativity.
STRAIGHT STITCH
Used for joining seams, the straight stitch is the
workhorse stitch. For seaming, use a length of 2-
2.5 mm, backstitching at the beginning and end for
security. Lengthen the stitch slightly and perhaps
change to a heavier thread for topstitching an edge. If
you maximize the length, a straight stitch is ideal for
basting and gathering, whereas a shortened length is
perfect for staystitching when you need to minimize
stretch or distortion.
ZIGZAG STITCH
A straight stitch gone sideways, the zigzag stitch is
perfect at a narrow width to sew seams in knits that
need flexibility. Mid-width, its ideal for overcasting
the raw edge of a seam allowance. Shorten the
length so stitches are close together, and it becomes
a satin stitch, suitable for appliquing. The zigzag
can also be used for embellishing, mending, or
attaching trims, elastic, and ribbons. The zigzag is
ideal for couching (when sewn over yarn or heavy
threads to secure them in a decorative pattern),
which is often done with invisible thread. A zigzag
sewn in one spot (using minimal to no stitch length)
creates a bartack, used to reinforce pocket tops and
other areas of stress.
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH
The straight stretch stitch is formed with two stitches
forward and one stitch back in a single line. It allows
your fabric to stretch and give without your seam
threads breaking. Use it for reinforcing areas with
extra stress, like pant crotch seams or armholes; the
seam can still be pressed open flat. The straight
stretch stitch also makes a prominent topstitch thanks
to the extra thread density.
MULTI-STEP ZIGZAG STITCH
Also called a three-step zigzag or mending stitch, the
configuration of a multi-step zigzag stitch is designed
to hold edges together, like those of a tear in your
fabric. With multiple stitches going both right and
left, this stitch is ideal for repairs, but also to sew on
elastic and tame raw fabric edges for finishing.
BLINDHEM STITCH
Combined with clever folding, the blindhem stitch
creates a machine-sewn hem that is held in place
with only small bites into the outer garment fabric.
The blindhem is a combination of multiple straight
stitches and single zigzag stitches, and a stretch
blindhem offers a combination of small zigzags and a
larger one for use on knits that need flexibility. The
amount of fabric you catch with the single zigzag
determines how much of the hem thread shows on
the right side, so to keep it blind, your goal is to
catch as little of the fabric as possible with that
single zigzag. The blindhem stitch can also be used
for appliqu, with the single zigzag catching the
appliqu itself, while the stitches in between remain
on the base fabric. A shell edge also uses the
blindhem stitch.
Explore the multitude of stitches
on your sewing machine
Stitch
Variety
BY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG
ABOVE
Machine-stitched
blind hem
BELOW
Shell edge using
blindhem stitch
BS_MachineMaster_Fall14.indd 104 7/21/14 5:54 PM
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Get Playful!
Unless your machine has pre-set parameters for each
stitch, try getting a different look by lengthening or
shortening it, or widening or narrowing it.
Varying the thread can change even the most mundane
stitch into something really fun. Try a 12-weight thread
or buttonhole twist for stand-out stitching, rayon for
lustrous sheen, or metallic for a dressier look. Invisible
thread is an option when youre looking for decreased
visibility. Be sure to choose a corresponding needle size
and type to the thread selection.
Twin needles come in multiple widths and sew two
parallel rows of stitching simultaneously. A twin needle
can enhance your stitch's ho-hum appearance, and
offer creative opportunities with even straight stitching.
If your machine doesn't have any
fancy stitches, specialty presser
feet are the next best thing. There
are feet for everyday sewing tasks
such as hemming, binding, or
sewing buttonholes, as well as fun
techniques like sewing pintucks,
pleats, and gathers... even adding
fringe! If your local fabric or
sewing shop doesnt carry a
big selection of specialty feet,
look online. I'd be lost
without my gathering foot!
AIANA wAIsu, AssIs1AN1 InI1ou
FROM THE EDITOR
STRETCH ZIGZAG
Similar to the straight stretch stitch, only with
width, the stretch zigzag uses two stitches
forward and one back, creating a bold zigzag
appearance that offers extra give. Good for
decorative uses, it mimics rickrack, and can
also be used to attach flat trims like bias
tape and braids, or for topstitching and seam
accents.
FEATHER STITCH
Looking like chicken footprints, the feather
stitch is used decoratively to attach laces and
trims, and also for highlighting seams on pieced
projects. Its sometimes used between two
finished fabric edges to create an openwork
area called fagoting.
OVERLOCK OR
OVERCAST STITCH
Designed to mimic a serger stitch, the overlock/
overcast stitch is ideal for finishing raw edges.
Configurations vary by machine brand, but all
finish a raw fabric edge, and sometimes require
a special foot. The overlock/overcast stitch can
also be used on stretch fabrics to attach ribbing
or to sew a narrow seam and finish the raw
edges in one pass.
SCALLOP STITCH
Used as an edge finish or sewn within a project
as a decorative detail, scallop stitches are simple
The stitches on your machine can be used for utilitarian purposes and decorative
purpose alike, so think outside the box to change the look of your stitch.
to do. The stitch combines varying zigzag widths
and placements in a scallop pattern, and when the
stitch is sewn close to the edge of your fabric, the
excess fabric can be carefully trimmed down in order
to create a clean, scalloped edge. Scallop stitches
sewn off a finished edge, with only the scallop point
catching the fabric, create a picot edge finish.
Since theres a single bobbin creating a zigzag on the
underside, twin needles create a fexible hem for knit
garments, and youll see them called for frequently in
BurdaStyle designs.
BS_MachineMaster_Fall14.indd 105 7/21/14 5:54 PM
sew this!
Step-by-Step
Project
THE CUTTING
LAYOUTS
show how pattern
pieces are to be laid out
on the fabric and lining
fabric and how to pin
them in place.
1 Center front
2 Side front
3 Center back
4 Side back
5 Front peplum
6 Back peplum
Also cut all pieces from
lining fabric and
interfacing.
THE BUSTIER PATTERN PIECES
are shaded pink on the pattern sheet to make them easy to fnd.
Lay pattern paper over the pattern insert and pin it in place. Trace
all pattern pieces in the desired size, and transfer all markings. The
arrows for side pleats on pattern pieces 5 and 6 and the arrow for
the center fold on piece 6 are all marked for size 34. For sizes 36 to
44, mark the pleat arrows correspondingly, for your size.
SEWING HINT: To find the correct size, measure your bust: size 34
= 31
1
2" (80 cm); size 36 = 33" (84 cm); size 38 = 34
3
4" (88 cm);
size 40 = 3
1
4" (92 cm); size 42 = 37
3
4" (96 cm); size 44 = 39
1
2"
(100 cm)
Not all bustiers are
alike this one has a
peplum, which makes
it rather special
Bustier
SHOPPING LIST:
Fine stretch gabardine, 60" (150

cm) wide: 1 yd (.9 m) for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes

34, 36: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 38, 40,
42, 44: 1
1
8 yds (1 m)
Interfacing
NOTIONS
Boning, " (1.3 cm) wide: yd

(.45 m)
Hook-and-eye tape: yd (.45 m)
Elastic, " (6 mm) wide: sizes 34,

36: 34" (.85 m); size 38: 36" (.9 m);
sizes 40, 42: 40" (1 m); size 44:
42" (1.05 m)
Glue stick
Sewing thread
Pattern paper
Pencil
Scissors
Measuring tape/ruler
Straight pins
Tailors chalk
Hand-sewing needle
Zipper foot
BS1310_109WS_Z
BS1310_109WS_Z BS1310_109WS_Z
BS1310_109WS_T
BS1310_109WS_T
Not all bustiers are
alike this one has a
peplum, which makes
Bustier
SHOPPING LIST:
Fine stretch gabardine, 60" (150

cm) wide: 1 yd (.9 m) for all sizes
Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes

34, 36: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 38, 40,
42, 44: 1
Interfacing
NOTIONS
Boning, " (1.3 cm) wide: yd

(.45 m)
Hook-and-eye tape: yd (.45 m)
Elastic, " (6 mm) wide: sizes 34,

36: 34" (.85 m); size 38: 36" (.9 m);
sizes 40, 42: 40" (1 m); size 44:
42" (1.05 m)
Glue stick
Sewing thread
Pattern paper
Pencil
Scissors
Measuring tape/ruler
Straight pins
Tailors chalk
Hand-sewing needle
Zipper foot
Peplum length is approx. 4 " (12 cm)
22
33
44
5
66
77
Size 34
Size 36
Size 38
Size 40
Size 42
Size 44
Gabardine, 60" (152.5 cm) wide,
Sizes 34 44
Lining, 54" (137 cm)
wide, Sizes 34, 36
Lining, 54"
(137 cm) wide,
Sizes 38 44
Extra pattern, shaded pink,
Sheet A: pattern-pieces 1 to 6
Selvedges
Fold
Selvedges
Fold
Selvedges
Fold
Selvedges
Selvedges
F
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BS_SewThis_Fall14.indd 106 7/21/14 5:57 PM
5
Lay the center back pieces right sides together. Pin
and stitch the center back, matching seamlines. Unfold
the unit. Lay the side back pieces on the center back
unit. Pin and stitch side back seams. Lay the side fronts on
the center front, right sides together. Pin and stitch side front
seams. Press all seams open.
CENTER BACK SEAM AND SECTION SEAMS
4
For sizes 34 and 36, cut out the lining pieces as
explained in step 1.
For sizes 38 to 44, fold the lining in half lengthwise.
Lay pieces 1 to 4 on the fabric, pin in place, and cut out. Fold
the remaining lining widthwise, place pieces 5 and 6 on it,
pin in place and cut out. Transfer seam and foldlines to the
lining pieces.
CUTTING OUT LINING
Right side of fabric
1
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise,
with the right sides together. Lay
all pattern pieces on the folded
fabric, according to the cutting layouts.
Pin in place. Cut out fabric pieces.
CUTTING GABARDINE,
ALL SIZES
2
Fold the interfacing in half
lengthwise, with the adhesive
side facing in. Place pattern
pieces 2 and 4 on the interfacing and
pin in place. Cut. Fold remaining
interfacing widthwise. Place pattern
pieces 1, 3, 5, and 6 on it and cut out.
Fuse interfacing pieces to wrong side
of corresponding fabric pieces.
INTERFACING
Right side of lining
3
Use tailors chalk to transfer
markings to wrong sides of
pattern pieces. Hand baste the
fold and pleat lines to make them
visible on the right side of the fabric.
TRANSFER PATTERN
MARKINGS TO FABRIC
Interfacing
sew this!
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7
Lay the back peplum pieces
right sides together, and pin the
center back seam. Stitch, then
unfold the back peplum. Lay the front
peplum on the back peplum unit and
pin the side seams. Stitch the seams.
Press the seams open. Sew the peplum
lining pieces together in the same way.
SEW THE PEPLUM
HOOK TAPE
10
Lay the hook tape on the right front edge right side,
with the hook side facing down. The upper hook is
3
16" (5 mm) below the marked upper edge and the
last hook is
3
8" (1 cm) above the foldline. The hooks lie on the
bustier front, next to the marked front edge. Trim the lower
end of the tape
3
16" (5 mm) below the last hook and turn end
under. Stitch along the front edge, using a zipper foot. Fold the
seam allowance with the tape to the outside and pin the upper
end in place.
9
Working from the peplum right side, baste the upper
edge pleats in the direction of the arrows. Stitch the
lower edge of the bustier to the upper edge of the
peplum, right sides together. Press seam allowances up. Trim
front edge seam allowances to
3
8" (1 cm) wide.
LAY PLEATS, ATTACH PEPLUM
8
Place the gabardine and lining
peplums right sides together. Pin
together lower and front edges,
as far as the fold line. Stitch the lower
edge. Stitch the front edge from the
foldline down, stopping
3
8" (1 cm)
before the lower edge seam. Beginning
at the foldline, stitch diagonally to the
edge of the seam allowance. Trim seam
allowances and clip into the corners.
Turn peplum right-side out and press.
Baste the open edges together.
LINE THE PEPLUM
6
Lay each bustier front on
the bustier back, right sides
together. Pin and stitch the side
seams. Press seams open. Lay boning
tape along each side seam, beginning
at marked upper edge seamline.
Trim at marked seamline on lower
edge. Glue the boning to the seam
allowances. Sew boning edges to the
seam allowances only.
SIDE SEAMS, BONING
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12
On the lining pieces, stitch seams as for steps 5
and 6 without the boning. Lay the lining on the
bustier, right sides together, and pin upper edges.
On the right front edge (over the hook tape), trim away lining
seam allowance. On the left front edge, leave lining extend-
ing. Stitch seam. Trim seam allowances. Turn the lining up
and press seam allowances toward lining. Stitch the lining to
the seam allowances, stitching close to the seam.
SEW LINING, STITCH LINING TO UPPER EDGE
11
Use the same number of eyes as hooks and trim
the tape
5
8" (1.5 cm) below the last eye. Turn tape
ends under, and sew in place. Place the eye tape
on the left front edge fabric right side, with the eyes facing
down. The upper eye is
3
16" (5 mm) below the upper edge.
The eyes lie on the bustier front, next to the marked front
edge. Stitch along the marked front edge, stitching carefully
across the eyes (use the hand wheel). Turn seam allowances
to wrong side.
EYE TAPE
14
Topstitch
5
8" (1.5 cm) from the lower peplum
edge, to form casing. Insert elastic into casing,
for size 34: 31
1
2" (80 cm); size 36: 33" (84 cm);
size 38: 34
3
4" (88 cm); size 40: 36
1
4" (92 cm); size 42: 37
3
4"
(96 cm); size 44: 39
1
2" (100 cm). Stitch the ends of the
elastic in place,
3
8" (1 cm) from the front edges. Turn in
the peplum along the fold. Fold the peplum to the inside,
along the marked foldline. Hand-stitch front ends to peplum
attachment seam. Sew lower peplum edge to side seams.
CASING FOR ELASTIC
13
On the left center front and upper edges, turn the
lining to the inside. Turn the lining edge under
and pin to the eye tape and to the peplum attach-
ment seam. Hand-stitch in place. On the right front edge, fold
the hook tape to the inside and pin it in place, over the lining.
From the right side and using a zipper foot, topstitch
3
8" (1
cm) from the right front edge catching the inner tape edge.
SEWING LINING IN PLACE

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FALL 2014 burdastyle.

Fine stretch gabardine, 60" (150

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes

Boning, " (1.3 cm) wide: yd

Hook-and-eye tape: yd (.45 m)

Elastic, " (6 mm) wide: sizes 34,

Fine stretch gabardine, 60" (150

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes

Boning, " (1.3 cm) wide: yd

Hook-and-eye tape: yd (.45 m)

Elastic, " (6 mm) wide: sizes 34,

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