A Guide To Tribal Wars

A Guide to Tribal Wars
By Assassin

Table of Contents
Preface
1. Troops
2. Welcome to Tribal Wars
a. Starting on a world that has just started
b. Starting on a world that has been going on for a while
c. Worlds with limited hauls
3.

Preface
This guide is meant to be just that, a guide. It is a collection of strategies that have worked in the
past for various people. But I emphasize again that this is shouldnt be taken as a step by step guide to
this game.
Also this guide assumes that you have had some experience with the game (for example you
know what the resources are and that to build or recruit you need them).

1. Troops
Before we start discussing the villages let us start with the single most important thing in the
game, troops. I say this because the one thing to keep in mind is this:

Troops Win Wars
Not Points

You can have as many points as you want but without troops you will not last in this game
because a lack of troops makes you an easy target.

So before we begin the discussion of the units here are some terms you might want to know if
you dont already:

Word Explanation
Offensive strength The attack strength shows how strong the unit is during an attack.
General Defense The defensive strength shows how well a unit can defend itself against infantry
units.
Cavalry Defense The cavalry defense shows how well a unit can defend itself against cavalry units
Archer Defense The archer defense gives the defensive strength of a unit when defending
against archers and mounted archers
Speed The speed tells you how many minutes this unit needs to cross one field.
Haul The haul tells you how much this unit can carry.

Infantry Units
Spear Fighter
Type: Defensive
Cost: 50/30/10
1

Population Cost: 1
Speed: 18 Minutes per Field
Haul: 25
Research Requirements and Cost: None
Offensive strength - 10
General Defense - 15
Cavalry Defense - 45
Archer Defense - 20

The basic unit. The spear fighter is a defensive troop and likely the first troop you will recruit.
The spear fighter is very useful at the early stages of the game because not only is it defensive (to help
you fend off any attackers) but it also has a nice haul of 25 units of resources that it can carry. This is
useful because you can use it for farming
2
which will help your growth at the early stages.
Later on in the game spears are to be included in your defensive villages in order to defend
against attacking cavalry (for which it has a great 45 defensive power against). Though it is great against
cavalry, the spear fighters are fairly weak against everything else so they should be accompanied by
swordsmen, archers, or heavy cavalry in your defensive village.
As for the spear fighters offensive power, it is fairly weak at 10. Thus, spears are not going to be
use for attacking at all because they will barely put a dent in your enemys defense.

1
This is in (cost in wood)/(cost in clay)/(cost in iron)
2
Farming sending your troops to attack another village (one that has been cleared of all troops) so you can take
its resources.
Swordsmen
Cost: 30/30/70
Population: 1
Haul: 15
Research Requirements and Cost: Smithy 1 900/800/780
Archer Defense - 40
The swordsman, a unit that you will use quite a bit at the early stages of the game and
depending on your opinion on defensive strategies you may choose to use it later on as part of your
defensive build.
Early on, swordsmen are the perfect defensive unit because it is great against general defensive
(other infantry units) which is all people will have early on. Therefore they should be recruited at the
same time as spear fighters so you can have the swords to defend your village while your spears are out
looting other villages.
The downside to swordsmen is actually a benefit to it as well and that is its iron cost. The iron
cost, at 70, is quite high but seeing as nothing else in the early stages of the game use that much iron
swordsmen are a great way to use up all of that extra iron that you will definitely have in the early
stages.
The swordsmans cavalry defense is very low at 15 which is why during the middle and later
stages of the game they need to be accompanied by spear fighters in your defensive villages in order to
provide a proper defense.
The swordsmans attack power, though bigger than the spear fighters, is still not that much
which is why it is a strictly defensive unit.

Axemen
Cost: 60/30/40
Population: 1
Haul: 10
Research Requirements and Cost: Smithy 2 700/840/820
Cavalry Defense - 5
Archer Defense - 10
Ah, the axeman, these are your attack soldiers. Defensively, they are worthless and ignorable. As
raiders, they can carry less loot than any other unit. All they are good for is killing. You should always
keep a contingent of axemen handy at higher levels, but remember they do not defend you from
incoming attacks, they should be recruited after your swords/spears.

Archers
Cost: 100/30/60
Population: 1
Haul: 10
Research Requirements and Cost: Barracks 5, Smithy 5 640/560/740
Archer Defense - 5
These are like a mixture of the spearman and the swordsman. They have good general defense and good
cavalry defense. While spearmen are unable to defend themselves against anything besides cavalry, the
archer can defend as well as a swordsman against axemen and nearly as well as a spearmen against
cavalry (except mounted archers, both spearmen and archers will die against mounted archers). Yes
they are expensive, but are very useful in providing a bridge in your defense against both infantry and
cavalry.

Scouts
Cost: 50/50/20
Population: 2
Haul: 0
Research Requirements and Cost: Stable 1 560/480/480
General Defense - 2
Cavalry Defense - 1
Archer Defense - 2
Vital! I cannot stress this enough. A serious, self-respecting, attacker always scouts first, that is fact. If
you have enough scouts defending you, you kill his and he doesn't know what he is attacking. Therefore,
he will send no more men. Not until he has scouted you successfully (and, of course, you won't let him...
will you?)

Of course, they work the other way as well. When you are attacking, never do so without scouting first.

Cavalry
Light Cavalry
Cost: 125/100/250
Population: 4
Haul: 80
Research Requirements and Cost: Stable 3 2200/2400/2000
Offensive strength -13 0
Archer Defense 30
Heavy Cavalry
Cost: 200/150/600
Population: 6
Haul: 50
Research Requirements and Cost: Stable 10, Smithy 15 3000/2400/2000
Archer Defense - 180

Regarding Cavalry, both light and heavy, I have much to say. Basically, light cavalry are to accompany
axes on all major attacks once u can build them. Heavy cavalry are a combination of axemen and
swordsmen and spearmen. So, they're uber, right? WRONG!

Allow me to jump into some math here. Ignore the resources and time it takes to recruit either unit. Let
us look instead at the actual statistics of the units and the number of villagers they use (ultimately, you
only have 24000 villagers in each village and several thousand of those are taken up by buildings).

A single unit of heavy cavalry takes 6 villagers. Therefore, since any infantry (axe, sword or spear) takes
only a single villager, we should divide all statistics by 6 and consider the cavalry unit as a single man.
Now, he has 25 attack compared to the 40 of an axeman, 33 defense compared to the 50 of a
swordsman and 13 cavalry defense compared to the 45 of a spearman. Conversely, you can multiply any
of those infantrymans stats by 6 and then see that they are far better than any cavalry.

Of course, the trouble here is that you have to recruit a number of each type rather than just one type
of cavalry, which can multi-task. But this too is a blessing! It means you can leave behind your defensive
statistics while sending forward your attacking statistics. With heavy cavalry you must send your
defenders away along with your attackers, or leave some attackers behind.

Oh, I feel I should also remind you that when attacking with cavalry you are more damaged by spearmen
than by swordsmen. If your scouts report a village defended by swords only, cavalry will suffer far less
casualties than if you attacked with axes alone.

What heavy cavalry are very good at, though, is providing a solid fast defensive force for any of your
villages or your allies. They can mobilize in half the time of a swordsman and can be put into defensive
areas very quickly when they are needed. This is the reason why people do build heavy cavalry, the
speed. A defense that has heavy cavalry can support from further out and still get there in time. They
also use a lot of iron which if you have noticed is always being offered in the market and thus is readily
available to speed up the production of heavy cavalry.

I bid you to make your own calculations and decisions as to what you prefer. However, DO recruit light
cavalry! They are a key ingredient to any decent attack.

Rams
Cost: 300/200/200
Population: 5
Haul: 0
Research Requirements and Cost: Workshop 1 1200/1600/1800
Archer Defense - 20
Rams are a beautiful thing. They are expensive, but worthwhile. Walls are the attackers worst
nightmare, once you forget about morale, they tip the balance in favor of the defenders. Well, your
rams are your way around this dilemma. They remove the walls from the equation. The attacker, you
see, has the advantage of being able to calculate his odds of victory. The defender has no such luxury, he
must fight either way, whether he has his walls or not. Rams are a great support to your axemen and
light cavalry and reduce loss of life; in high level attacks they are essential. However, remember when
conquering villages that you are destroying walls that will later defend your village...

Catapults

When conquering a village sometimes it is best to reduce the enemy's headquarters below level 15 to
prevent him from sabotaging all his buildings and reducing them to rubble before you conquer his
ground. Or you can slow his production of troops (destroy the barracks or resource producers) or even
attack his walls. Catapults can also be used to create a pain in the backside of the enemy as he sees his
villages destroyed to mere rubble they can be used when you merely wish to agitate the defender and
do not wish to attack his village. They are mostly used offensively but can help defend if necessary.

It is your decision whether you think these units are needed in your armies.

Simulator

No, this isn't a troop type. However it is useful. After a time you may stop using it but it is still wise to get
to know the simulator. You can find it in your Rally Point. Here you can test your attacks to see how
effective they will be. Don't underestimate its usefulness.

So, those are your troops. Spearmen, Swordsmen and Scouts to defend your home. Axemen, Light
Cavalry, Rams and Catapults to destroy your enemy's homes. Don't go sending your soldiers against
some large formidable tribe/player. Choosing your target is vital when planning to invade, pick on the
smaller enemy. But also remember that his points do not represent in any way shape or form how many
troops he has.

I'm afraid there's little more I can say. Congratulations, soldier, you now know enough to go out there
and start training your troops! But remember, real combat can be tricky. Never jump into it unprepared.
If you are unprepared, you are dead. So, remember the Three S's:

1. Scout
2. Simulate
3. Survive!

BATTLING WITH SIEGES

Rams:

The calculations done in a battle follow a specific order. Rams are calculated TWICE. The first time,
before the attack, the pre-wall damage. This is level the wall operates at during the main battle
calculation.

Z/4 * 1.09^-W

(number of levels the wall is reduced, rounded to nearest level)

Z is your number of rams
W is the level of the wall

The pre-wall damage is limited to knocking the wall down to half its original level, i.e., a level 20 wall will
never be calculated below level 10 in battle, no matter how many rams you send. The second wall
calculation comes after battle, which requires knowing the actual battle calculation. That's for another
thread. The purpose of this thread is to help you attack with the best number of rams. Drum roll
please...

When launching a full offensive strike against a level 20 wall, you need:

213/4 * 1.09^-20 = 9.501 ~ 10

This represents the minimum number of rams to achieve maximum pre-wall damage.

Catapults:

Of course, you probably won't be using cats often if at all but...

The thing most people don't know about cats is that they are best deployed in waves, not a lump attack.
This is because it takes less and less cats to knock a building down one level as its level decreases.

* 30 to 29 -> 20
* 29 to 28 -> 19
* 28 to 27 -> 17
* 27 to 26 -> 16
* 26 to 25 -> 15
* 25 to 24 -> 13
* 24 to 23 -> 12
* 23 to 22 -> 11
* 22 to 21 -> 11
* 21 to 20 -> 10
* 20 to 19 -> 9
* 19 to 18 -> 8
* 18 to 17 -> 8
* 17 to 16 -> 7
* 16 to 15 -> 6
* 15 to 14 -> 6
* 14 to 13 -> 6
* 13 to 12 -> 5
* 12 to 11 -> 5
* 11 to 10 -> 4
* 10 to 9 -> 4
* 9 to 8 -> 4
* 8 to 7 -> 4
* 7 to 6 -> 3
* 6 to 5 -> 3
* 5 to 4 -> 3
* 4 to 3 -> 3
* 3 to 2 -> 2
* 2 to 1 -> 2
* 1 to 0 -> 2

How many would you need to drop a level 30 building down to zero in one hit? 1175! That's a difference
of 937 cats, or 7496 population! What a waste. (Please do not mistake catapults, shortened to cats,
for real cats launching real cats at the enemy will only cover them in fur and cat blood when u invade
the village you will then face a rather large cleaning bill for all the carpets in your new castle!)

Defenses are the most important part of playing the game. Players who have low defenses may be lucky
but luck always runs out.

Defensive Unit Objectives:

Objective one (less than 1000 points):
Wall (level 10) and have troop strengths of 500 spearmen, 500 swordsmen and 100 scouts - for a new
player, this is harder than it sounds. Resources seem to take forever and farming is always a gamble
when starting. Always focus on defenses. Other structures may have to be built while accomplishing.

Objective two (1000-1500 points):
Wall (level 20) and have a troops strength of 1000 spearmen, 1000 swordsmen and 300 scouts - This is
the minimum defensive outline for a village of 1000 points. This is when other people (people like me)
begin looking at you as an easy take. Once the above is coming to be, you can start to build up resources
(wood, clay and iron). This is a transition stage.

Objective three (1500-2000 points):
Wall (level 20) and have a troops strength of 2000 spearmen, 2000 swordsmen and 500 scouts - This
again is the minimum defenses for a village with the points range of 1500-2000). Resources should be
your focus now. Upgrading them as much and as quickly as possible.

Objective four (2000-3000 points):
Wall (level 20) and have a troops strength of 3000+ spearmen, 3000+ swordsmen and 1000+ scouts -
This base line of defenses will keep almost all attackers at bay. Also paving the way to preparing to take
another village.

Objective five (4000+ points):
Wall (level 20) and have a troops strength of 4000+ spearmen, 4000+ swordsmen and 1250+ scouts - A
player may have routed some energy into light cavalry already. They are important to raiding and a
quicker build up. Resources are now getting up there. This is the point one should begin to build up an
assault/attack force (axemen and light cavalry). I strongly urge players with less than two villages not to
build any heavy cavalry. They are expensive to build. A player can almost double their number of light
cavalry with the resources spent on the heavy cavalry. The heavy cavalry also take up a lot of your
population.

With the above outline, very few if any attempts on sieging your village will take place. In the event that
a much larger player goes after you while you are at 4000 or so points. Assistance given will be that
much more effective.

My take is that one should split their villages to " Attacking Village " and " Defensive Village ".

Attacking Village - One that is build to attack other villages.
Defensive village - One that is build to defend own village and offer assistance to other villages.

For defensive villages at 5000+ points, I would advise such setup:
Spears - 8500+
Swords - 8500+
Scouts - 1500+

For Attacking villages at 5000+ points, I would advise such setup:
Axes - 8000-10000
Scouts - 1000+
Lt cav - 2000-3000
MA's - 1500-2000
Rams - 100-250

For me, I would not waste my time on rams and cats, they are good to bring walls and buildings down.
But for me, I would want to the village to remain intact when I occupy them.

Creating Your Nobleman

So, you think you're ready to expand? Are you sure? To make your nobleman you need an Academy.
Don't be fooled, this isnt age of empires, making an Academy is a tricky business. It requires a level 20
Headquarters, level 20 Smithy and level 10 Market. But I assume you know that, thats why you're here.
Still, it is an expensive task and it is advisable to have at least 3000 points, lvl 28+ Wood/Clay/Iron and
4000+ Sp/Sw before you make your nobleman.

Your first nobleman requires a coin of 28,000 Wood, 30,000 Clay and 25,000 Iron, then the actual
nobleman of 40,000 Wood, 50,000 Clay and 50,000 Iron. This requires a warehouse of level 17 minimum
for the coin, then a lvl 20 minimum for the actual nobleman.

Each nobleman after that costs coins before you can build the nobleman. For your first nobleman, only 1
coin total is required. For the second, 3 total coins are required (difference of 2). For the third
nobleman, 6 total coins are needed (difference of 3). Ooohh, i see a pattern.

Choosing A Target

So, you've made your nobleman and you're ready to strike! But wait! Who are you going to convert to
your cause? Many decide to conquer a nearby abandoned village their first time however the choice is
ultimately up to you. There are a few things to consider:

1) How far is your target? Your nobleman crosses each individual square of the map (the size of one
village) in 35 minutes. The longer your invasion lasts, the more losses you will take. It is also important
to remember that enemy villages regenerate loyalty. I shall explain loyalty in more detail later.

2) How strong is your target? Never attack someone stronger than you. Be a bully. Thats just common
sense, isnt it? This IS a war game after all!

3) Is your target the member of a tribe larger than or around the same strength of your own? If yes,
choose another! Never attack the member of a powerful tribe unless your tribe is already at war with
them. Even then, think twice! They may counter-attack in a massive force or be well defended.

Doing The Deed

So, you've found your victim. Now to plunge the knife... But not so fast! Never attack without scouting
first. Send a force of at least 500 scouts. If they come back dead, stay away! But, hopefully, you will learn
that the enemy (if you've chosen a sufficiently tasty target) is sitting merry behind no walls and not
enough units to defend himself. If that be the case, slaughter. But always be certain that you outnumber
your foe greatly. His walls make a huge difference. If you are unconfident that you will win, stop here.
Fortify your army (though be aware your enemy will be doing the same since you scouted him) and then
scout again before you strike.

Let me show an example from a recent attack:

Attacker:
Quantity 100 200 430 0 0 0 18 0 1
Losses: 28 55 118 0 0 0 5 0 0

Defender:
Quantity 20 80 11 40 46 3 0 5 0
Losses: 20 80 11 40 46 3 0 5 0

Translation? The defender had 293 troops total. The attacker had 649 including nobleman. Quite
obviously, the attacker should win, right? More than double his men. Well, as you can see the attacker
did win. He is now undefended and awaiting the next wave of soldiers. However, the attacker lost a
quarter of his/her main attacking force (400 axemen) the swords and spears (the defence force) were
there just to be certain they survived intact, without them though I am certain the attacker would have
lost far more and now be contemplating putting off a further assault as they trained fresh troops. Dont
waste your defence troops on attacks if you feel it will be a close-call!

Note: Never ever, ever send a nobleman alone into enemy lands.

You've Conquered!

So we've skipped forward a little (for more information see the general notes below) The walls of your
enemies have been ripped down, his village is a smoldering ruin and his dead soldiers litter the bloodied
ground. Hold on... Thats your village! It is important to be certain you conquer, so feel free to use rams
and take down his walls. Catapults however can be tricky. It's a nice idea, blast him to pieces. But try to
keep his village intact. Remember if it is an active player with a village HQ over level 15 he can destroy
his own buildings. Imagine your horror when that 3000 point village you conquer now has 30 points
because the previous owner destroyed everything before you got there! Some people have no shame. If
you are afraid of this, feel free to batter away at his headquarters, but be warned you will be the one to
rebuild.

Remember also that you must now defend this place. Rebuild the walls you destroyed and send troops
from the once attacking village to defend. It is important therefore that you had not only recruited your
attacking troopers but defenders as well to hold the battle-scarred walls. The loyalty of your new town
remains low for a time, but will regenerate 1 per hour. However, to begin with it is vulnerable. I
personally have never had a problem but be warned that if the player you "stole" the village from has
another village nearby, he may snatch it straight back, if he has his own nobleman. It may also be worth
noting that the nobleman you conquered with is now gone, he's taken charge of your new manor house,
is exploiting the slaves you took and getting fat off your loot. You're never going to see him again (You
wont be invited to his funeral if the villages he is controlling falls to enemy hands).

So, What Next?

Well, thats about as far as I go with the step-by-step part of this tutorial. I suggest rebuilding,
particularly in the resource and defence department. Rename your new town something witty like
"haha, I win" or whatever codes you use for your villages, I personally number mine with names mostly
stolen from songs! Just be sure you don't leave it as "other-player's village" If you wish to conquer again,
return to your home base and you must now upgrade your Academy to level 2. Depressing, isn't it? All
those resources can take days to acquire. Then there's the nobleman... double the resources this time
(thats 60,000 clay!) As I said before, noblemen are fragile, be careful with them Do not tip them upside
down You should find a This Way Up sign on the box. If they die, you'll never forgive yourself Unless
you are that evil OR self-harming type. Of course, a nobleman who does not conquer can be retrained,
you dont have to upgrade your academy for another unless he has conquered.

The Mechanics

So you've done it! Aren't you proud? You should be! But what exactly did you do? Let's go over some of
the math and lesser known articles.

Firstly, you may be interested to know that every time you strike your nobleman has a chance of
decreasing the enemy's loyalty between 20 and 35%. Hold on, what IS this loyalty? Okay, let me explain
that at last.

Basically, Loyalty is the loyalty of the village to its owners. When this little number reaches zero the
attacker conquers the village, his attacking troops remain in the village and the nobleman disappears.
The ONLY way to reduce loyalty is with an attacking nobleman. It regenerates at 1% per hour. So, how
does this affect you? Say you're attacking someone 20 squares away. That's more than a 10 hour trip
one way. That's a long time. So your nobleman hits the enemy village and takes down... okay lets say
youre lucky, he does 35%. Now he has to come back, in that time the village regenerates 10%. You send
your man back out an hour later when you check back and 10 hours later you strike again, that makes
11% he has again regenerated before you strike. Thats 21% altogether. That means you only did 14%
loyalty damage. That is going to take a long time to conquer! This is why you need to attack someone
close by, and plan a time when you can be online regularly (weekend maybe?) so you can keep up with
it.

As I said before, when you conquer a village it starts out at 25% loyalty to you. This will rise until it
becomes 100%, but in the meantime you are vulnerable. If someone successfully attacks you just once,
you may just lose your entire, hard-earned, village straight out. Defend yourself well!

Another interesting point to make. I once read somewhere that you can potentially, if you chose to build
this way, create an academy and nobleman with less than 2000 points, I forget the exact figure. I
strongly suggest against this. You simply wont be strong enough. Two weak villages do not make a
strong one. You have to support your weaker villages in some way, since they will eventually be preyed
upon (just the same way as you preyed upon them before, you nasty predator you!) But to do so with a
weak village? Well, I don't see the sense in that. Be patient. Look at your neighbors. As I said before, you
attack those near you, not far away. They are the only ones you really can attack. Be paranoid. Everyone
is a threat. Stay ahead of the rat race. Or you will be nothing but nibbles for the rats. Though of course
your tribe may rush to your rescue before that happens!

One final thing regarding choosing your target Once you have acquired enough village to build 4
noblemen at once you may send them in a string of attacks (Leave none unguarded though) Normally
this will capture the village for you no matter how far away it is (Unless your noblemen decide to only
reduce the loyalty by small amounts).

If I have missed anything or you have any questions feel free to post here and I'll fill it in for you. I hope
it made sense and can help you out. Good luck Conquering!

CHAPTER 2: YOUR 1ST VILLAGE

I'm gonna describe a cookie-cutter build for Tribal Wars. This means it's a general guidelines sort of
strategy, but you'll have to make adaptations depending on your situation. For example if you're under
the threat of attack, you will want to make more defense, etc. This is more or less what I did, so take it
for what it's worth:

The strategy basically starts from scratch.. if you're already past this point, you can read up to where you
are at and proceed from there.

1. Boost timber/clay non-stop.. iron two levels below the other two. When the sucky people around you
come out of protection is when you want to have a force of spearmen ready to start raiding them. So let
someone with an army scan the good prospects for farming to see when they come out of noob
protection. Any village below 120 points are marks.

2. Build up spearmen and raid away. Make some swordsmen (like 100) which you can let at home for
defense. Building-wise get your wall up to level 5 and still non-stop boost resources. Also get a few
levels of marketplace and trade for resources whenever you're in need of something. Offer em 1:1 if you
need to. Ignore axemen.

3. When you reach about 20/20/18 in timber/clay/iron, you now boost HQ to 10 (this one first!),
barracks to 5, smithy to 5 and start making some scouts and then mass light cavalry. Scout like crazy
everyone who looks like a mark around you - this is: everyone up to like half your points. Scout many
screens away around you, not just your immediate vicinity! Then you farm with l. cavalry, with the
money they make you build more l. cavalry.. let this become a vicious circle and you are going strong.
Don't bother too much with more swords/spears than 200-300 unless you really need to. Same with
further wall upgrades.

* NOTE * biggest mistake I see most people make is to upgrade barracks, smithy, etc a little bit in
between resource upgrades.. this is a big waste! Don't do it. Except for farm and warehouse upgrades
which you need to proceed, just ignore wasteful upgrades. (hiding place at level 1, don't upgrade it
unless you come under attack!)
And you really don't need rams and catapults until you're going for your academy and you need to take
down walls! Going for workshop and making like 10 rams and 10 catapults puts you back a whole lot as
compared to someone who just races resources.

* NOTE 2 * another common mistake is that people pick a fight with other people that are active.. ignore
em, pick on the weak and inactives. And if your farms are being farmed by others.. whatever. Split your
light cavalry up and farm whenever you get a chance to log on.

4. Then around 25/25/24 - 27/27/26 (only go higher the less you can farm in your area.. the less you can
farm, the higher you need to have your resources before you proceed) you upgrade HQ to 20 (first),
then market to 10 and then smithy to 20. Now around this time you will have an excess of money
because those buildings cost very little and take long.. so now you start to mass an army 24/7. Make
axemen now too. Oh, and when your smithy is level 12 you get workshop level 2 and start massing rams
and cats. (like 75 of each at least) Also do all the upgrades.

5. Make your noble and start kicking someone's ass

CHAPTER 3: THE GREAT MULTI-VILLAGE SETUP

Your first village will have mixed troops in it: offense, defense, some rams, and maybe some cats. As you
get more villages you might want to start building them more efficiently. You will want to have the
biggest possible offense for your bashes so that you loose less troops, build only defense and Scouts in
your defensive villages and then distribute these defensive troops to all your villages.

But how do you make your village builds most efficient?
(1) Village Headquarters Villagers for level/total Time Factor
Level 20 15/99 38%
Level 30 69/475 23%

For building approximately 60% faster, you pay an immense amount of resources, wait at least 3 days
until the building is finished and block 376 farm slots. Since there is a cap to the maximum level of the
other buildings, you will reach that quite quickly and really don't need the 60% speed increase. So stick
with HQ 20.

(2) Barracks Villagers for level/total Time Factor
Level 25 44/303 16%

You will want to build axes in your offensive villages as quickly as possible and spears, and spears and
swords in your defensive villages as fast as possible, so there is no way around a level 25 barracks.

(3) Stable Villagers for level/total Time Factor
Level 20 23/158 21%

A level 20 stables only uses up 158 farm slots and is obviously very useful in offensive villages. You might
want to have it at level 20 in defensive villages, too, so you can change from defensive to offensive
production fast, or to build heavy cavalry. As you start 24/7 defense production you will have the
barracks working all day, but the stable has very little to do. You build Scouts very fast and they are very
cheap too, so you might consider building some heavy cavalry, not as your primary defense but as a fast
defense if support is needed somewhere.

(4) Workshop Villagers for level/total Time Factor
Level 2 1/9 59%

Level 2 is enough, since it builds around 50 rams a day. It takes only 9 farm slots for that so I build these
in defensive villages too, to produce siege equipment for fake attacks.

(5) Smithy Villagers for level/total Time Factor
Level 20 57/395 15%

No discussion, it is necessary for the Academy and the nobleman.

(6) Market Villagers for level/total # Merchants
Level 10 12/82 10 merchants

Here is a building that keeps bugging me. You really "need" level 10. You might want level 16 for
transporting up to 3 academy resource packages (ARP), which need 15 merchants per package. And that
really should be the maximum in your offensive villages. In your defensive villages you might have a
surplus on resources, so it might be necessary to build more. But remember. You can always use your
own lt. cav to plunder yourself. I would not build a market exceeding level 16.

If you have many villages I think that in any maxed out/finished villages you should have market level 20.
Since you no longer really need the resources in your maxed out village you can send 50k of each
resource a day to one of you undeveloped villages. A level 20 market is a very useful thing in a finished
village. Don't bother with it until you take care of your other needs though (walls, resources producers,
barracks, etc.) Taking a market from level 10-20 is one of the last things I do before I "graduate" a
village. A village that is near 24k pop, and 30/30/30 on its resources isn't doing you much good if you're
not frequently shipping resources to your developing villages and your tribe mates and allies. In a
mature village, a high level market will give you an edge.

(7) Resources Level Villagers for level/total production
Timber camp Level 30 43/326 3600 production per hour
Clay pit Level 30 55/447 3600 production per hour
Iron mine Level 30 138/949 3600 production per hour

No doubt u would prefer be long on resources rather than not having enough to build anything at all.

(8) Farm Villagers for level/total Population
Level 30 0/0 24000

Well, obviously it costs no farmers but produces. Level 30, in all villages, no exception.

(9) Warehouse Villagers for level/total Time Factor
Level 25 0/0 142373
Level 30 0/0 400000

You might want to keep this at level 25, because your village has less points then and therefore your
morale would be higher, but since it costs no farm slots, most players tend to build it to level 30

(10) Hiding Place Villagers for level/total Storage
Level 1 2/2 150
Level 10 1/8 2000

This can be effective to piss off attackers in the beginning, but it also helps in the late game. When your
rally point is destroyed and you need to replace it you should have at least Level 1. Level 10 is pretty
useless, but thats just 6 farm slots, so decide for yourself.

(11) Wall Villagers for level/total defence
Level 20 15/99 207% defense bonus

A level 20 wall provides a massive defense bonus and increases the villages defense by a fixed (but quite
low value), so that incoming troops get damage even if you have no defending troops.

Let's add this up!
Building Level Farm Points
Headquarter: 20 99 319
Barracks: 25 303 1272
Stable: 20 158 639
Workshop: 2 9 29
Academy: 3 110 937
Smithy: 20 395 607
Market: 16 211 154
timber camp 30 326 1187
clay pit 30 447 1187
iron mine 30 949 1187
Warehouse: 25 0 477
Farm: 30 0 989
Hiding place: 1 2 5
Wall: 20 99 256
total 2835 9245

Your village could be 12355 points if you maxed everything, but you will have 2k fewer farm slots in
exchange for small improvements in other areas. This formula suggested above leaves you 21,165
villagers to use for troops.

CHAPTER 4: DEFENSIVE STRATEGIES

Shifting Weight

Many people do this, but don't think of it as a strategy. However, it is one of the most important things
to do when having more than one defensive village. Shifting weight is when you are getting attacked in
multiple villages and have the ability to calculate which attacks are fake, what troops are being sent, and
what to do.

Fake Attacks

To pick out which attacks are fake and which are real, you simply have to determine a couple things.
First off, establish when the attacks were made. If one attack right after another was made from the
same village, it could be a noble train, or it may be a cluster of fake attacks.

Start by finding the total time it takes to reach your village to the other with a nobleman. Next, check to
see if that unit is in the attacking wave by examining his troops arrival times.

If his troops will arrive in your village in 2 hours, prepare to send him a nobleman to check the time
required. Say the noble takes 4 hours. Then, you know the attack does not include a nobleman. It may
be a fake attack, or it may be an attack with other types of units. Continue the
process above with different types of units, as this will allow you to determine the slowest moving unit
included in the charge.

Another good way to learn what your enemy is sending at you is to attack him back with level 3 scouts--
if your scouts are able to report on what units are outside his village, then you can use your best
judgment to guess which of those troops might be heading your way. Of course, you must scout the
same city that is sending attacks at you.

Sometimes people try to trick you by sending rams as fake attacks. The travel time for rams is close to
that for nobles, but it differs by a few minutes per field. Nobles take the longest to get to targets, scouts
are quickest.

Troops

Let's assume that you now know that the attacker is sending swords. What should you do?

Swords are a weak attacking unit. They do not match up well against any of the defensive units besides
spears. If you are getting attacked by swords, do one of two things.

1. Laugh cause you know what to do cause you read this article
2. laugh because your attacker is inexperienced.

All joking aside, you should begin to shift your defenses over to the village under attack, and send away
your offensive troops at your attacker. This may sound a little lame, but please keep reading. Your
attacker is sending swords. You don't know how many or if he has any other defense in his village, but
chances are good that he is sending more than 1 sword. This means that his defenses are weakened.
Also, it's wise to send your offensive troops out of your village when you are being attacked because
most offensive units have very little defensive capability.

Essentially, shifting weight means moving your troops around to your other villages (enabling your
villages to withstand the opposing forces) after taking the time to learn as much as you can about what
your enemy is sending your way.

CHAPTER 5: OFFENSIVE STRATEGIES

Time on target was a concept originally developed by the Allied Artillery during World War 2. The idea
behind time on target then was to have as many artillery shells land on a target area simultaneously as
was possible. This enabled the artillery to do as much damage to enemy positions as they could before
the enemy could scatter and/or take shelter in fortifications. It was computed by picking a time to attack
the enemy, and then computing the shell flight times from each battery to the target. This gave a
battery the time when they should fire their guns. Because different batteries were at different
distances to the target, the fire time would be different for each battery. So, each battery fired at a
different time, but at the destination, every shell hit the target area within a second or two of each
other.

Using time on target (TOT) tactics can be highly effective in Tribal Wars, but for different reasons. You
cannot join attacks together from different places to make them more effective like you can in real-
world combat or in many other strategy games, but TOT, in conjunction with other techniques like fake
attacks, fake noble trains, and real noble trains, can be highly effective in deceiving your enemy as to
your real intentions.

The Tribal Wars combat system favors defense over offense, in part for the reason that attacks cannot
be joined, but defense can be heaped onto a single village without limit when support from other
villages is taken into consideration. Add into the mix a wall that both adds defensive points and acts as a
defensive effects multiplier for defending armies, and the combat advantage is tilted in favor of defense.
The only advantage offensive armies have is that they build more quickly than defensive armies (2
weeks for a full offensive army, versus the better part of a month for a full defensive army), but that's a
strategy and logistics concern that doesn't help you in combat.

So, given this, the worst possible thing you can do is let your enemy know what your target(s) is/are. The
absolute worst thing to do is just to send your armies forth against your target and hope it will break.
That will work against idiots and newbie players still trying to figure their way around in the game, and
hideously disorganized tribes, but if you're fighting someone who has half a clue, and if they've got a
decently active tribe with a few defensive troops, be prepared to see a lot of red dots come back in your
attack reports.

The first step to misdirection involves using fake attacks. Send one axeman or ram up at several
different villages is effective in this, because the target player cannot distinguish between a single ram
sent, versus an 8,000axe/3,000lcav/300ram juggernaut. Faking is important, but peripheral to the
matter at hand.

However, if your targets are spread across any distance and you send your fakes at the same time as
your real attacks, it is feasible that a good player can micromanage their defense so that as each of your
forces arrive, both fake and real, that you are facing most, if not all of his defensive forces in every
village. Sure, you're making life more interesting for your target than just charging forward, but you
could still get spanked hard. Clearly, that's unacceptable. The point of fakes is to keep defensive forces
pinned down defending things you're not attacking.

The point of TOT is to minimize the amount of support the villages you are attacking will receive by
forcing the enemy to distribute their defenses over a wide area, while allowing you to concentrate your
offense on just one or a few targets, depending on the size and scope of your offensive. So, how do you
arrive at this timing mastery? All you really need to know how to do is come up with a plan and know
how to subtract.

1. Pick your targets. Decide which are real and which are fakes. If you have a specific target in mind,
that's fine, but try not to be obvious and always go for the best village. Be random. If you want to noble
a couple villages, get a list of your six favorites, number them 1 to 6, and let a six-sided die decide. Flip a
coin to pick between two. Canny opponents will learn your ways and attempt to take advantage of your
habits.
2. Either using TW Plus or Tribal Wars itself, you can figure out how long an attack given a certain type of
unit will take. In TW Plus, use the Duration, Village, and Attack Calculators to get attack times. In Tribal
Wars, you can just plug in attacks on the villages you are targeting and click attack, but be careful to not
confirm the attack!
3. Take the longest attack duration and add that to the time you want to commence operations. This
time will be your TOT
4. For all the other attack durations, subtract these from the TOT to get the time each attack should be
launched.
5. List all these attacks in time order on a sheet of paper, a spreadsheet, a word processing document,
or whatever you are comfortable with. The important things you will need is the time to launch, the
village you're launching from, the village you're launching to, and at least whether the attack is fake or
real. If you want to really get into the nitty-gritty, write down exactly how big each strike force is.
6. When the commence time arrives, launch your first attack.
7. As each computed time arrives, launch the attacks. Be sure you have both your correct village and the
enemy's correct village specified! It's especially easy to not pay attention and send the attack from the
wrong village
8. Enjoy the flood of reports you get within seconds of each other. :-)

Now, it takes time for your adversary to move support from one village to the other, so sub-second
timing is clearly not necessary from a tactical perspective. Unless villages are right next to each other,
you can afford 20 or even 30 minutes of slop from TOT. After all, we're not launching an artillery
barrage. I strive to hit a 15 minute window of arrival times, though. From a psychological perspective,
however, getting all your attacks to arrive within a minute of each other can be highly intimidating to
your opponent. Imagine yourself in their shoes: How would you feel having 30 incomings on 6 villages all
set to arrive at the same time?

IF U GOT THIS FAR THEN WELL DONE, THANKS FOR READING, AND I HOPE UVE LEARNT SOMETHING!
This is something i stole from another tribe that my friend is in, i'm sitting him.. its pretty useful and
comprehensive. as of now, it is written for a world where upgrades are possible but i will be editing
them out as i go.

I will update this and add to things i have already posted to hopefully give a good guide to everybody
playing.

CHAPTER 1: TROOPS

So, you think you're a warrior, do you? A general, perhaps? You think you have what it takes to lead men
into battle, and see them safely out the other side? Maybe, after reading this, you will...

My objective with this little tutorial is not so much to tell you what to do (though I assure you my own
personal opinions may well lean toward that very thing) but I would try to simply state the facts. Pros
and Cons of every troop type. What I believe should be used, for what, when, how many... So forth.
Afterwards, perhaps I shall include my own personal preference and setup. But lets get started, shall
we?

Spearmen

The basic unit. This is a defensive troop type, through and through. However, his general defence point
is low. His cavalry defence however is high. What does this mean for you?

At low levels the spearman should be used to raid abandoned villages quickly and cheaply to put you
ahead of your peers. But later on he should be stationed in your village(s) to defend against attacking
cavalry. He is weak attacking, so should not be sent to attack a defended adversary and is also weak
defending against anything that isnt cavalry, so should be supported by swordsmen, archers, or heavy
cavalry at all times during a defence.

Swordsmen

A key unit to your successes. At low levels they should be trained immediately. This is when no one has
cavalry, so swordsmen will be your perfect defender against any axes sent at u, spearmen are in fact
unnecessary at this early stage!

Unfortunately they take a lot of iron, however as you've probably noticed, nothing else does. So you
should have some spare. This is an advantage, if you choose to see it that way. Swordsmen are brilliant
defenders, especially against mounted archers, and that is their primary role. They can be used to
support a large attack, although I would not advise it, but generally should be stationed behind the
walls.

Axemen

Ah, the axeman, these are your attack soldiers. Defensively, they are worthless and ignorable. As
raiders, they can carry less loot than any other unit. All they are good for is killing. You should always
keep a contingent of axemen handy at higher levels, but remember they do not defend you from
incoming attacks, they should be recruited after your swords/spears.

Archers

These are like a mixture of the spearman and the swordsman. They have good general defence and
good cavalry defence. while spearmen are unable to defend themselves against anything besides
cavalry, the archer can defend as well as a swordsman against axemen and nearly as well as a spearmen
against cavalry (except mounted archers, both spearmen and archers will die against mounted archers).
Yes they are expensive, but are very useful in providing a bridge in your defence against both infantry
and cavalry.

Scouts

Vital! I cannot stress this enough. A serious, self-respecting, attacker always scouts first, that is fact. If
you have enough scouts defending you, you kill his and he doesn't know what he is attacking. Therefore,
he will send no more men. Not until he has scouted you successfully (and, of course, you won't let him...
will you?)

Of course, they work the other way as well. When you are attacking, never do so without scouting first.

Cavalry

Regarding Cavalry, both light and heavy, I have much to say. Basically, light cavalry are to accompany
axes on all major attacks once u can build them. Heavy cavalry are a combination of axemen and
swordsmen and spearmen. So, they're uber, right? WRONG!

Allow me to jump into some maths, here. Ignore the resources and time it takes to recruit either unit.
Let us look instead at the actual statistics of the units and the number of villagers they use (ultimately,
you only have 24000 villagers in each village and several thousand of those are taken up by buildings).

A single unit of heavy cavalry takes 6 villagers. Therefore, since any infantry (axe, sword or spear) takes
only a single villager, we should divide all statistics by 6 and consider the cavalry unit as a single man.
Now, he has 25 attack compared to the 40 of an axeman. 33 defence compared to the 50 of a
swordsman and 13 cavalry defence compared to the 45 of a spearman. Conversely, you can multiply any
of those infantryman's stats by 6 and then see that they are far better than any cavalry.

Of course, the trouble here is that you have to recruit a number of each type rather than just one type
of cavalry, which can multi-task. But this too is a blessing! It means you can leave behind your defensive
statistics while sending forward your attacking statistics. With heavy cavalry you must send your
defenders away along with your attackers, or leave some attackers behind.

Oh, I feel I should also remind you that when attacking with cavalry you are more damaged by spearmen
than by swordsmen. If your scouts report a village defended by swords only, cavalry will suffer far less
casualties than if u attacked with axes alone.

What heavy cavalry are very good at, though, is providing a solid fast defensive force for any of your
villages or your allies. they can mobilize in half the time of a swordsman and can be but into defensive
areas quickly when they are needed.

I bid you to make your own calculations and decisions as to what you prefer. However it is my opinion
that infantry are superior to heavy cavalry, and therefore investing resources into heavy cavalry is a
waste. However, DO recruit light cavalry! They are a key ingredient to any decent attack.

Rams

Rams are a beautiful thing. They are expensive, but worthwhile. Walls are the attackers worst
nightmare, once u forget about morale, they tip the balance in favor of the defenders. Well, your rams
are your way around this dilemma. They remove the walls from the equation. The attacker, you see, has
the advantage of being able to calculate his odds of victory. The defender has no such luxury, he must
fight either way, whether he has his walls or not. Rams are a great support to your axemen and light
cavalry and reduce loss of life; in high level attacks they are essential. However, remember when
conquering villages that you are destroying walls that will later defend your village...

Catapults

When conquering a village sometimes it is best to reduce the enemy's headquarters below level 15 to
prevent him from sabotaging all his buildings and reducing them to rubble before you conquer his
ground. Or you can slow his production of troops (destroy the barracks or resource producers) or even
attack his walls. Catapults can also be used to create a pain in the backside of the enemy as he sees his
villages destroyed to mere rubble they can be used when you merely wish to agitate the defender and
do not wish to attack his village. They are mostly used offensively but can help defend if necessary.

It is your decision whether you think these units are needed in your armies.

Simulator

No, this isn't a troop type. However it is useful. After a time you may stop using it but it is still wise to get
to know the simulator. You can find it in your Rally Point. Here you can test your attacks to see how
effective they will be. Don't underestimate its usefulness.

So, those are your troops. Spearmen, Swordsmen and Scouts to defend your home. Axemen, Light
Cavalry, Rams and Catapults to destroy your enemy's homes. Don't go sending your soldiers against
some large formidable tribe/player. Choosing your target is vital when planning to invade, pick on the
smaller enemy. But also remember that his points do not represent in any way shape or form how many
troops he has.

I'm afraid there's little more I can say. Congratulations, soldier, you now know enough to go out there
and start training your troops! But remember, real combat can be tricky. Never jump into it unprepared.
If you are unprepared, you are dead. So, remember the Three S's:

1. Scout
2. Simulate
3. Survive!

BATTLING WITH SIEGES

Rams:

The calculations done in a battle follow a specific order. Rams are calculated TWICE. The first time,
before the attack, the pre-wall damage. This is level the wall operates at during the main battle
calculation.

Z/4 * 1.09^-W

(number of levels the wall is reduced, rounded to nearest level)

Z is your number of rams
W is the level of the wall

The pre-wall damage is limited to knocking the wall down to half its original level, i.e., a level 20 wall will
never be calculated below level 10 in battle, no matter how many rams you send. The second wall
calculation comes after battle, which requires knowing the actual battle calculation. That's for another
thread. The purpose of this thread is to help you attack with the best number of rams. Drum roll
please...

When launching a full offensive strike against a level 20 wall, you need:

213/4 * 1.09^-20 = 9.501 ~ 10

This represents the minimum number of rams to achieve maximum pre-wall damage.

Catapults:

Of course, you probably won't be using cats often if at all but...

The thing most people don't know about cats is that they are best deployed in waves, not a lump attack.
This is because it takes less and less cats to knock a building down one level as its level decreases.

* 30 to 29 -> 20
* 29 to 28 -> 19
* 28 to 27 -> 17
* 27 to 26 -> 16
* 26 to 25 -> 15
* 25 to 24 -> 13
* 24 to 23 -> 12
* 23 to 22 -> 11
* 22 to 21 -> 11
* 21 to 20 -> 10
* 20 to 19 -> 9
* 19 to 18 -> 8
* 18 to 17 -> 8
* 17 to 16 -> 7
* 16 to 15 -> 6
* 15 to 14 -> 6
* 14 to 13 -> 6
* 13 to 12 -> 5
* 12 to 11 -> 5
* 11 to 10 -> 4
* 10 to 9 -> 4
* 9 to 8 -> 4
* 8 to 7 -> 4
* 7 to 6 -> 3
* 6 to 5 -> 3
* 5 to 4 -> 3
* 4 to 3 -> 3
* 3 to 2 -> 2
* 2 to 1 -> 2
* 1 to 0 -> 2

How many would you need to drop a level 30 building down to zero in one hit? 1175! That's a difference
of 937 cats, or 7496 population! What a waste. (Please do not mistake catapults, shortened to cats,
for real cats launching real cats at the enemy will only cover them in fur and cat blood when u invade
the village you will then face a rather large cleaning bill for all the carpets in your new castle!)

Defenses are the most important part of playing the game. Players who have low defenses may be lucky
but luck always runs out.

Defensive Unit Objectives:

Objective one (less than 1000 points):
Wall (level 10) and have troop strengths of 500 spearmen, 500 swordsmen and 100 scouts - for a new
player, this is harder than it sounds. Resources seem to take forever and farming is always a gamble
when starting. Always focus on defenses. Other structures may have to be built while accomplishing.

Objective two (1000-1500 points):
Wall (level 20) and have a troops strength of 1000 spearmen, 1000 swordsmen and 300 scouts - This is
the minimum defensive outline for a village of 1000 points. This is when other people (people like me)
begin looking at you as an easy take. Once the above is coming to be, you can start to build up resources
(wood, clay and iron). This is a transition stage.

Objective three (1500-2000 points):
Wall (level 20) and have a troops strength of 2000 spearmen, 2000 swordsmen and 500 scouts - This
again is the minimum defenses for a village with the points range of 1500-2000). Resources should be
your focus now. Upgrading them as much and as quickly as possible.

Objective four (2000-3000 points):
Wall (level 20) and have a troops strength of 3000+ spearmen, 3000+ swordsmen and 1000+ scouts -
This base line of defenses will keep almost all attackers at bay. Also paving the way to preparing to take
another village.

Objective five (4000+ points):
Wall (level 20) and have a troops strength of 4000+ spearmen, 4000+ swordsmen and 1250+ scouts - A
player may have routed some energy into light cavalry already. They are important to raiding and a
quicker build up. Resources are now getting up there. This is the point one should begin to build up an
assault/attack force (axemen and light cavalry). I strongly urge players with less than two villages not to
build any heavy cavalry. They are expensive to build. A player can almost double their number of light
cavalry with the resources spent on the heavy cavalry. The heavy cavalry also take up a lot of your
population.

With the above outline, very few if any attempts on sieging your village will take place. In the event that
a much larger player goes after you while you are at 4000 or so points. Assistance given will be that
much more effective.

My take is that one should split their villages to " Attacking Village " and " Defensive Village ".

Attacking Village - One that is build to attack other villages.
Defensive village - One that is build to defend own village and offer assistance to other villages.

For defensive villages at 5000+ points, I would advise such setup:
Spears - 8500+
Swords - 8500+
Scouts - 1500+

For Attacking villages at 5000+ points, I would advise such setup:
Axes - 8000-10000
Scouts - 1000+
Lt cav - 2000-3000
MA's - 1500-2000
Rams - 100-250

For me, I would not waste my time on rams and cats, they are good to bring walls and buildings down.
But for me, I would want to the village to remain intact when I occupy them.

Creating Your Nobleman

So, you think you're ready to expand? Are you sure? To make your nobleman you need an Academy.
Don't be fooled, this isnt age of empires, making an Academy is a tricky business. It requires a level 20
Headquarters, level 20 Smithy and level 10 Market. But I assume you know that, thats why you're here.
Still, it is an expensive task and it is advisable to have at least 3000 points, lvl 28+ Wood/Clay/Iron and
4000+ Sp/Sw before you make your nobleman.

Your first nobleman requires a coin of 28,000 Wood, 30,000 Clay and 25,000 Iron, then the actual
nobleman of 40,000 Wood, 50,000 Clay and 50,000 Iron. This requires a warehouse of level 17 minimum
for the coin, then a lvl 20 minimum for the actual nobleman.

Each nobleman after that costs coins before you can build the nobleman. For your first nobleman, only 1
coin total is required. For the second, 3 total coins are required (difference of 2). For the third
nobleman, 6 total coins are needed (difference of 3). Ooohh, i see a pattern.

Choosing A Target

So, you've made your nobleman and you're ready to strike! But wait! Who are you going to convert to
your cause? Many decide to conquer a nearby abandoned village their first time however the choice is
ultimately up to you. There are a few things to consider:

1) How far is your target? Your nobleman crosses each individual square of the map (the size of one
village) in 35 minutes. The longer your invasion lasts, the more losses you will take. It is also important
to remember that enemy villages regenerate loyalty. I shall explain loyalty in more detail later.

2) How strong is your target? Never attack someone stronger than you. Be a bully. Thats just common
sense, isnt it? This IS a war game after all!

3) Is your target the member of a tribe larger than or around the same strength of your own? If yes,
choose another! Never attack the member of a powerful tribe unless your tribe is already at war with
them. Even then, think twice! They may counter-attack in a massive force or be well defended.

Doing The Deed

So, you've found your victim. Now to plunge the knife... But not so fast! Never attack without scouting
first. Send a force of at least 500 scouts. If they come back dead, stay away! But, hopefully, you will learn
that the enemy (if you've chosen a sufficiently tasty target) is sitting merry behind no walls and not
enough units to defend himself. If that be the case, slaughter. But always be certain that you outnumber
your foe greatly. His walls make a huge difference. If you are unconfident that you will win, stop here.
Fortify your army (though be aware your enemy will be doing the same since you scouted him) and then
scout again before you strike.

Let me show an example from a recent attack:

Attacker:
Quantity 100 200 430 0 0 0 18 0 1
Losses: 28 55 118 0 0 0 5 0 0

Defender:
Quantity 20 80 11 40 46 3 0 5 0
Losses: 20 80 11 40 46 3 0 5 0

Translation? The defender had 293 troops total. The attacker had 649 including nobleman. Quite
obviously, the attacker should win, right? More than double his men. Well, as you can see the attacker
did win. He is now undefended and awaiting the next wave of soldiers. However, the attacker lost a
quarter of his/her main attacking force (400 axemen) the swords and spears (the defence force) were
there just to be certain they survived intact, without them though I am certain the attacker would have
lost far more and now be contemplating putting off a further assault as they trained fresh troops. Dont
waste your defence troops on attacks if you feel it will be a close-call!

Note: Never ever, ever send a nobleman alone into enemy lands.

You've Conquered!

So we've skipped forward a little (for more information see the general notes below) The walls of your
enemies have been ripped down, his village is a smoldering ruin and his dead soldiers litter the bloodied
ground. Hold on... Thats your village! It is important to be certain you conquer, so feel free to use rams
and take down his walls. Catapults however can be tricky. It's a nice idea, blast him to pieces. But try to
keep his village intact. Remember if it is an active player with a village HQ over level 15 he can destroy
his own buildings. Imagine your horror when that 3000 point village you conquer now has 30 points
because the previous owner destroyed everything before you got there! Some people have no shame. If
you are afraid of this, feel free to batter away at his headquarters, but be warned you will be the one to
rebuild.

Remember also that you must now defend this place. Rebuild the walls you destroyed and send troops
from the once attacking village to defend. It is important therefore that you had not only recruited your
attacking troopers but defenders as well to hold the battle-scarred walls. The loyalty of your new town
remains low for a time, but will regenerate 1 per hour. However, to begin with it is vulnerable. I
personally have never had a problem but be warned that if the player you "stole" the village from has
another village nearby, he may snatch it straight back, if he has his own nobleman. It may also be worth
noting that the nobleman you conquered with is now gone, he's taken charge of your new manor house,
is exploiting the slaves you took and getting fat off your loot. You're never going to see him again (You
wont be invited to his funeral if the villages he is controlling falls to enemy hands).

So, What Next?

Well, thats about as far as I go with the step-by-step part of this tutorial. I suggest rebuilding,
particularly in the resource and defence department. Rename your new town something witty like
"haha, I win" or whatever codes you use for your villages, I personally number mine with names mostly
stolen from songs! Just be sure you don't leave it as "other-player's village" If you wish to conquer again,
return to your home base and you must now upgrade your Academy to level 2. Depressing, isn't it? All
those resources can take days to acquire. Then there's the nobleman... double the resources this time
(thats 60,000 clay!) As I said before, noblemen are fragile, be careful with them Do not tip them upside
down You should find a This Way Up sign on the box. If they die, you'll never forgive yourself Unless
you are that evil OR self-harming type. Of course, a nobleman who does not conquer can be retrained,
you dont have to upgrade your academy for another unless he has conquered.

The Mechanics

So you've done it! Aren't you proud? You should be! But what exactly did you do? Let's go over some of
the math and lesser known articles.

Firstly, you may be interested to know that every time you strike your nobleman has a chance of
decreasing the enemy's loyalty between 20 and 35%. Hold on, what IS this loyalty? Okay, let me explain
that at last.

Basically, Loyalty is the loyalty of the village to its owners. When this little number reaches zero the
attacker conquers the village, his attacking troops remain in the village and the nobleman disappears.
The ONLY way to reduce loyalty is with an attacking nobleman. It regenerates at 1% per hour. So, how
does this affect you? Say you're attacking someone 20 squares away. That's more than a 10 hour trip
one way. That's a long time. So your nobleman hits the enemy village and takes down... okay lets say
youre lucky, he does 35%. Now he has to come back, in that time the village regenerates 10%. You send
your man back out an hour later when you check back and 10 hours later you strike again, that makes
11% he has again regenerated before you strike. Thats 21% altogether. That means you only did 14%
loyalty damage. That is going to take a long time to conquer! This is why you need to attack someone
close by, and plan a time when you can be online regularly (weekend maybe?) so you can keep up with
it.

As I said before, when you conquer a village it starts out at 25% loyalty to you. This will rise until it
becomes 100%, but in the meantime you are vulnerable. If someone successfully attacks you just once,
you may just lose your entire, hard-earned, village straight out. Defend yourself well!

Another interesting point to make. I once read somewhere that you can potentially, if you chose to build
this way, create an academy and nobleman with less than 2000 points, I forget the exact figure. I
strongly suggest against this. You simply wont be strong enough. Two weak villages do not make a
strong one. You have to support your weaker villages in some way, since they will eventually be preyed
upon (just the same way as you preyed upon them before, you nasty predator you!) But to do so with a
weak village? Well, I don't see the sense in that. Be patient. Look at your neighbors. As I said before, you
attack those near you, not far away. They are the only ones you really can attack. Be paranoid. Everyone
is a threat. Stay ahead of the rat race. Or you will be nothing but nibbles for the rats. Though of course
your tribe may rush to your rescue before that happens!

One final thing regarding choosing your target Once you have acquired enough village to build 4
noblemen at once you may send them in a string of attacks (Leave none unguarded though) Normally
this will capture the village for you no matter how far away it is (Unless your noblemen decide to only
reduce the loyalty by small amounts).

If I have missed anything or you have any questions feel free to post here and I'll fill it in for you. I hope
it made sense and can help you out. Good luck Conquering!

CHAPTER 2: YOUR 1ST VILLAGE

I'm gonna describe a cookie-cutter build for Tribal Wars. This means it's a general guidelines sort of
strategy, but you'll have to make adaptations depending on your situation. For example if you're under
the threat

A Guide To Tribal Wars

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