Cosmetics and pharmaceutical agents 151

6.2. Hair growth promoters

The causes of male scalp hair loss (alopecia) are: (1) reduced hair follicle function due to
effect of male hormones, (2) reduced physiological function of scalp, (3) reduced metabolism
function of hair follicle and hair bulb, (4) reduced blood flow due to scalp tension,
(5) poor nutrition, (6) stress, (7) side effect of medicines, (8) genetic reasons, etc.,
(see Chapter 2). However, the reasons for hair loss are not completely understood.
Consequently, hair growth promoters include various compounds to alleviate these
causes of hair loss. Most products focus on components that stimulate the activity of the
hair matrix and blood capillaries. These compounds promote hair growth by supplying
nutrients through promotion of blood circulation and activating the hair follicles in the
catagen and telogen phases.
Hair growth promoters are classified according to their active ingredients and purpose.
6.2.1. Vasodilators
Vasodilators which improve the flow of blood in the peripheral blood vessels are formulated
in hair-care cosmetics. They can be classified into blood-flow stimulants which
restore blood circulation and hair-follicle stimulants which improve secondary blood
circulation.
6.2.1.1. Blood flow stimulants
The principal blood flow stimulants used in hair growth promoters are swertia extract
(swertinogen), cepharanthine, vitamin E and its derivatives, y-orizanol, etc.
Swertia extract is an extract containing bitter glycosides of Swertia japonica, Makino,
a member of the Gentian family; its principal component is swertinogen. It promotes
blood flow by dilating the fine capillaries in the skin thereby supplying nutrients and
energy to the hair matrix.
Cepharanthine is an alkaloid extracted from the root of Stephania cepharanthia,
Hayata, a member of the Tudurafuji family. It functions by dilating the blood capillaries.
Vitamin E works directly on the skin blood supply and acts by promoting blood flow
through vasodilatation of the blood capillaries.
6.2.1.2. Hair follicle stimulants
The principle hair follicle stimulants are tinctura capsici, tinctura zingiberis, tinctura
cantharidis, nicotinic acid benzyl ester, etc.
Tinctura capsici is an ethanol extract of the fruit of the chili pepper. Capsicum annuum,
Linneus. The spicy component, capsaicin, promotes hair growth by stimulating
the hair root.
Tinctura zingiberis is an ethanol extract of the root of Zingiber officinale, Roscoe. The
stimulants, zingerone and shogaol both promote hair growth by stimulating the hair root.
6.2.2. Nourishing agents
Vitamins and amino acids are used to prevent the undernourishment of cells surrounding
152 New cosmetic science
the hair matrix due to insufficient blood circulation around the dermal papilla and hair
follicle.
6.2.2.1. Vitamins
The principal vitamins are A, Bj, B2, Bg, E, E derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives,
and biotin.
6.2.2.2. Amino acids
The principal amino acids are cystine, cysteine, methionine, serine, leucine, tryptophan
as well as amino acid extracts, etc.
6.2.3. Estrogens (follicle hormone)
Since male sex hormones (androgens) are one of the main causes of male scalp hair loss
(alopecia), female sex hormones (estrogens) can be used to counter their effect.
The main ones are estradiol, ethynyl estradiol, etc.
6.2.4. Hair root activating agents
Hair root activating agents improve the function of the hair matrix when reduced by the
abnormal activity of various enzymes affecting hair growth.
The principal agents are pantothenic acid and its derivatives, placenta extract, allantoin,
and quaternium-73.
6.2.5. Humectants
Humectants prevent the hair from becoming too dry.
The principal ingredients are glycerin, pyrrolidone carboxylate. Other hair growth
promoters are described in Section 6.5.1. Anti-dandruff and Anti-itching Agents.