Knitting a Fabric to Reduce Holes and Dropped Stitches Yarn Machine Housekeeping and maintenance The Relationship to Yarn Cause and effect of: Holes Dropped stitches Unwanted tucks 2 Holes and Other Alias Hole A fabric imperfection in which one yarn or several yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an opening. Fairchilds Dictionary of Textiles Single Jersey - Face Hole Holes and Other Alias Dropped Stitch Defect in knitted fabric; recurrent openings in one or more wales of a knitted fabric because the stitches did not knit. Not to be confused with a hole, caused by rupture of one or more yarns. Fairchilds Dictionary of Textiles 3 Dropped Stitch Single Jersey - Face Single Jersey - Face Dropped Stitch Holes and Other Alias Unwanted Tuck An unwanted knitting stitch that produces tuck or open work effects by having certain needles hold more than one stitch at a time. Fairchilds Dictionary of Textiles 4 Single Jersey - Face Unwanted Tuck Stitch Unwanted Tuck Stitch Single Jersey - Back Unwanted Tuck Stitch Single Jersey - Face 5 Unwanted Tuck Stitch Single Jersey - Back Types of Loops Regular Knit Loop Technical Face Regular Knit Loop Technical Back Types of Loops Tuck Loop Technical Face Tuck Loop Technical Back 6 Yarn Size Variation (thick and thin) Strength Twist Knots and splicing Hairiness Trash content Incorrect Yarn Size If yarn size is too large for the machine gauge or the needle hook, then stresses on the yarn and fabric during knitting can result in holes. NCSU Optimum Yarn Formula Single Knit: Cut 2 18 Double Knit: Cut 2 15 7 Thick and Thin Yarns Variation in yarn diameter can result in variations in yarn tensions resulting in holes and drop stitches. Hole Long Slub Single Jersey Hole Long Slub Single Jersey 8 Yarn Strength If yarn strength is too low for the knitting parameters being used (tightness factor, stitch length, etc.), holes can result. Tightness Factor for Knits TF = 9.567____ St. Length x NE sinker or trick wall needle cam angle Tension in Knitting and Robbing-Back 9 Yarn Twist If yarn twist is too high, twist liveliness can result causing the yarn to kink. This changes the yarn diameter and yarn tension, which can result in holes or drop stitches. Twist Multiple TM = TURNS PER INCH NE KNITTING TWIST = 3.5 TM 10 Yarn Knots or Unsatisfactory Splicing Incorrect yarn splicing or knot tying can cause high and variable yarn tension, which results in holes and drop stitches. Also, long tails from knots result in doubling or tripling of the yarn diameter. Yarn Knot and Tail Single Jersey Hole 11 Yarn Knot and Tail Single Jersey Hole Knot and Tail Single Jersey Hole Yarn Hairiness A yarn with excessive hairiness can increase yarn tension and lint shedding, which can result in holes and drop stitches. 12 Coefficient of Friction UNWAXED .24 WAXED [ APPAREL ] = .14 to .15 Yarn Trash Content Yarns with high levels of trash can create problems with tightness stress, weak spots in yarn, and variations in yarn tension. Hole Trash Single Jersey 13 Hole Trash Single Jersey - Back Hole Trash in Yarn Conclusion Yarn quality can directly affect fabric quality.