Page 1/4

INFORMATION
Cosmetics
No. VI/98/al
August 1998
Skin Care


CETIOL

OE
the light oil for products with a light feel -

A. Ansmann, G. Baumller, R. Kawa
_________________________________________________________________________________________________


Based on the concept of the "sensory spread cascade," fast-spreading oils are used

in combination with medium-spreading oils to compensate for the oily, rich character of
slow spreading components, e.g., in formulations with pressed vegetable oils and
ultraviolet filters.

to develop especially light product concepts, which are f. e. of major significance for the
Asian and American markets.




Spreading capacity and the cascade principle
The skin feel during and after application of care products and skin oils depends mainly on the oil
components. The spreading capacity of a substance on the skin and its perception of lubricity are the
main factors that influence the skin "feel." Fast-spreading oils are perceived as non greasy, readily
absorbable and can be easily differenciated from medium and low spreading emollients.


Product profile CETIOL OE
INCI name: Dicaprylyl Ether
Raw material basis: Coconut oil / palm kernel oil
Appearance: Clear, colorless, low-viscous oil with no intrinsic odor
Cloud point: < -5
o
C

Properties: saturated, oxidation-resistant
weakly polar, readily emulsifiable
dry, light, high spreading (1600 mm
2
/10 min)
good dermatological compatibility
non-phototoxic
non-comedogenic

Information Cosmetic Cetiol OE No. VI/98/al
Skin Care

Page 2/4

Fast spreading emollients impart a positive intensive
sensation of smoothness to the skin immediately
after application, but is relatively short in duration.
Slowly spreading oil components have good fatting
properties but only impart a moderately smooth feel
over a longer period of time. A balanced skin feel can
only be achieved with a suitable combination of
emollients. Utilising about the spread cascade, a
made-to-measure finished product with the required
sensory properties can be developed. CETIOL

OE,
as a fast-spreading emollient, is especially suitable
for formulating light care concepts and as an
extension to oil components that spread only slowly
or moderately quickly.

Use in sunscreen formulation
The aim of modern sunscreen concepts is to create
products that have a high SPF and a correspondingly
high content of oil-soluble ultraviolet filters, but also
impart a pleasant feel to the skin. The oil-soluble
ultraviolet filters tend to leave the skin with a fatty,
rich sensation like low spreading emollients. This is
experienced as unpleasant, but can be compensated
for by the use of an oil component with good
spreading properties. Moreover the skin feel of
emulsions with higher light protection factors can be
compensated for by simultaneously reducing the
proportion of emollients with medium and low
spreading properties. The sensory properties of the
products that make up a sunscreen range can
therefore be kept constant while the ultraviolet filter
content increases.

Phototoxicity
A key requirement that has to be satisfied by raw
materials, and especially those used in sunscreen
products, is that they should not be phototoxic. The
phototoxic potential of CETIOL

OE was studied
experimentally. It was found to be non-phototoxic and
therefore suitable for use in sunscreen preparations.

Sample formulations

Form. no. Emulsion type/Use Emulsifier
94/056/131 O/W After shave spray with Hydagen
CMF
Emulgade SE
95/117/59 O/W Body lotion, cold processed Eumulgin VL 75
98/031/2 O/W Sun protection lotion, cold
processed
Eumulgin VL 75
96/071/2 O/W Facial cream with vitamin E Emulgade PL68/50
94/066/142 W/O Care lotion with vitamin E Dehymuls PGPH
95/161/14 W/O Light soft cream with vitamin E Dehymuls PGPH




O/W After shave spray with Hydagen CMF
Formulation no. : 94/056/131
Component % Function

I. CETIOL OE (1600)
Dicaprylyl Ether
CETIOL LC (800)
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
EMULGADE SE
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20
(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
EUMULGIN B 2 Flakes
Ceteareth-20
II. HYDAGEN CMF
Chitosan Glycolate
Aqua, deionized
Preservative
5,0

5,0

6,0



1,0

7,0

76,0
q.s.
Emollient

Emollient

O/W cream base SE



O/W emulsifier

Film former


Preparation
Melt the components listed under Phase I at 80 90C and mix until
homogeneous. Heat the ingredients of phase II at 85 90C, mix
homogenously and add slowly, little by little, to Phase I while stirring
continuously. Avoid incorporation of air. At the beginning of water
addition a transparent middle phase can be observed. Maintain at
constant temperature for 5 minutes. Then allow the emulsion to cool
down. Cease stirring at 30C and add the desired preservative
pending.


O/W Bodylotion, cold processing
Formulation no. : 95/117/59
Component % Function

I. CETIOL OE (1600)
Dicaprylyl Ether
Dow Corning 1401 Fluid* (high)
Cyclomethicone (and)
Dimethiconol
CETIOL V (700)
Decyl Oleate
MYRITOL 312 (550)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
CETIOL J 600 (350)
Oleyl Erucate
EUMULGIN VL 75 (low)
Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin
II. Glycerin 86%
Carbopol 980 2%/2% sol.**
Carbomer
KOH 20%
Aqua
Preservative / Perfume

Viscosity (mPas)
Brookfield RVF, rotor: 5, rpm: 10
2,0

1,0


3,0

6,0

4,0

4,5


2,4
15,0

0,6
61,5
q. s.

8.800


Emollient

Emollient


Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

O/W emulsifier


Moisturizer
Stabiliser

Neutralisation agent

* Dow Corning ** Goodrich

Preparation / cold emulsification
Mix Phase I at room temperature. Stir in the prehydrated Carbopol
(2%) and the other components of Phase II and homogenize. The
duration and intensity of the homogenization depend on the
equipment used. Neutralize with KOH.




O/W Sun protection lotion with Eumulgin VL 75
Formulation no. : 98/031/2 (SPF 15 calculated)
Component % Function
I. CETIOL OE (1600)
Dicaprylyl Ether
3,00


Emollient

No. VI/98/al
Skin Care
Cetiol OE Information Cosmetic

Page 3/4
MYRITOL 331 (900)
Cocoglycerides
Silicon oil AK 350 (medium)**
COPHEROLF 1300 (low)
Tocopherol
EUMULGIN VL 75 (low)
Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin
Octyl Methoxycinnamate (low)
Benzophenone-3
Carbopol ETD 2001*
II. Glycerin 86 %
Aqua
KOH 20 %ig
Preservatives
HYDAGEN B
Bisabolol

pH value
Viscosity (mPas)
Brookfield, RVF, 23 C,
rotor: 5, rpm:10
13,00

0,50
1,00

3,50


7,00
3,00
0,30
3,00
64,8
ca. 0,7
q.s.
0,20


6,50
15.200
Emollient


Active ingredient

W/O emulsifier


UV filter
UV filter

Moisturizer



Active ingredient
* Goodrich ** Wacker
Preparation / cold emulsifying process
Mix phase I at room temperature and add the other components of
phase II while stirring and homogenise. Duration and intensity of the
homogenization depend upon the technical conditions.


O/W Facial cream with Vitamin E
Formulation no.: 96/071/2
Component % Function
I. CETIOL OE (1600)
Dicaprylyl Ether
CETIOL V (700)
Decyl Oleate
MYRITOL 312 (550)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Silicon oil AIC 350 (medium)*
Dimethicone
CETIOL J 600 (350)
Oleyl Erucate
COPHEROL 1250 (low)
Tocopheryl Acetate
EMULGADE PL 68/50
Cetearyl Glucoside (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol
MONOMULS 60-35 C
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
II. Glycerin 86%
Aqua
Preservative / Perfume

Viscosity (mPas)
Brookfield, RVF, 23C
rotor: Helipath TE, rpm: 4
3,0

4,0

4,0

0,5

3,0

1,0

5,3


1,5

3,0
75,7
q. s.

250.000

Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

Defoaming agent

Emollient

Active ingredient

O/W cream base SE



Moisturizer
* Wacker

Preparation
Heat the fat phase to 80C. Heat the aqueous phase to 80C and stir
it into the fat phase. Emulsify for 5 minutes at this temperature.



Allow the emulsion to cool while stirring continuously. The stirring
speed should be sufficient to keep the emulsion in motion without
any agglomeration or inclusion of air bubbles occurring. If the
emulsion is stirred too powerfully, especially below 50C, the final
viscosity may be too low. Blend in care additives at temperatures
below 40C. Cease stirring at 30C.

Note
Emulsion systems based on EMULGADEPL 68/50 may pass
through marked gel phases during the cooling stage.


W/O Care lotion with Dehymuls PGPH and Vitamin E
Formulation no. : 94/066/142
Component % Function
I. CETIOL OE (1600)
Dicaprylyl Ether
CETIOL A (1100)
Hexyl Laurate
CETIOL SN (700)
Cetearyl Isononanoate
EUTANOL G 16 (700)
Hexyldecanol
LAMEFORM TGI (low)
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
DEHYMULS PGPH (low)
Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate
Zincum N 29*
Zinc Stearate
Bienenwachs 8100**
Cera Alba
II. Glycerin 86%
MgSO4.7H2O
Aqua
Perfume, Preservative

Viscosity (mPas)
Brookfield, RVF, 23 C, rotor 5, rpm: 10
6,0

6,0

7,0

3,0

1,0

3,0


1,0

1,0

5,0
1,0
66,0
q. s.

13.000

Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

W/O emulsifier

W/O emulsifier


Stabiliser

Consistency giving factor

Moisturizer
Stabiliser

* Brlocher ** Kahl & Co.

Preparation
1. Melt the components listed under I. at 80-85C and mix until
homogeneous. 2. Heat the components listed under II at 80-85C
and stir them into Phase I. Emulsify for 5 minutes at this temperature.
3. Air-cool and stir the emulsion, ensuring that it remains in constant
homogeneous motion and no air bubbles are included. Homogenize
carefully at 55-65C (e.g. Ultra Turrax with suitable disperser head). If
the homogenization is too intensive the viscosity of the finished
product may be too high. Compensate for the water loss if necessary.
4. Cease stirring when the temperature falls below 30C.













W/O Soft cream with Vitamin E
Formulation no. : 95/161/14
Component % Function
I. CETIOL OE (1600)
Dicaprylyl Ether
CETIOL PGL (700-800)
Hexyldecanol (and)
Hexyldecyl Laurate
LAMEFORM TGI (low)
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
7,0

10,0


3,0


Emollient

Emollient


W/O emulsifier

Information Cosmetic Cetiol OE No. VI/98/al
Skin Care

Page 4/4
DEHYMULS PGPH (low)
Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate
COPHEROL 1250 (low)
Tocopheryl Acetate
Bienenwachs 8100**
Cera Alba (Beeswax)
Zincum N 29*
Zinc Stearate
II. Glycerin 86%
Mg-Sulfate 7H2O
Aqua
Preservative, Perfume

Viscosity (mPas)
Brookfield, RVF, 23 C,
rotor: Helipath TE, rpm: 4
3,0


3,0

2,0

2,0

5,0
1,0
64,0
q.s.

150.000
W/O emulsifier


Active ingredient

Consistency factor

Stabilizer

Moisturizer
* Brlocher ** Kahl & Co.

Preparation
1. Melt the components listed under I. at 80-85C and mix until
homogeneous. 2. Heat the components listed under II. at 80-85C
and stir them into Phase I until the mixture is homogeneous. Stir for 5
minutes at this temperature. 3. Air-cool and stir the emulsion,
ensuring that it remains in continuous homogeneous motion and no
air bubbles are included. Homogenize with a suitable disperser head
(e.g. Ultra Turrax) at 55-65C to improve the structure and stability.
The duration and intensity of the homogenization influence the
viscosity of the cream. 4. Add Phase III at 30C. Cease stirring at
25C .






















































All products in the text marked with an are trademarks of the Cognis group.
Suggestions for processing and use of our products as well as possible formulation suggestions are provided noncommittally in accordance with our knowledge and information. They do
not discharge our customers from testing the products on suitability for processes and purposes they are destined for. We are only liable for a damage caused intentionally or by gross
negligence. However, we are under no circumstances liable for consequential damage. Each processor is liable for the compliance of all legal regulations, including patent
legislation.Cognis does not guarantee the suitability of a product for a user-specific purpose.

Cognis Deutschland GmbH Care Chemicals Division D-40551Dsseldorf