Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
Berlin
October - November 2014
The Wall
25 years later
Anniversary celebrations
West Berlin
New life in the old west
inyourpocket.com
N71 - 1.75
Contents
Transport
Sports in Berlin
Basics
Mauerfall
10
Berlin Mitte
Gendamenmarkt
AM
20
32
Berlin Friedrichshain
42
46
SYMBOL KEY
T Child friendly
V Home delivery
E Live music
N No credit cards
B Outside seating
G Non-smoking room
S Take away
R Internet
L Guarded parking
H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
48
City Tours
56
Potsdam
58
Directory
W Wi-Fi
Local cuisine
Berlin Kreuzberg
Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
59
60
61-63
64-65
66
BERLIN BOXES
Scattered throughout the guide youll nd boxes with
more information about these topics:
Berlin in books
Cold War Berlin
Erasmus Student Network
West Berlin Revival
55
39
8
41
Foreword
Transport
Publisher
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Strae 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1611-9037
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11.
Editorial
Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krger, Christina Knight
Research Cecilia Engvall, Layout Tom Haman,
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner,
Cover Axel Lauer | Dreamstime.com
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Stephan Krmer
Production Manager Philippe Krger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers Philippe Krger,
CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)
Copyright notice & Editors note
Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket
publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in
any form without written permission from the copyright
owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license
from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every eort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
COVER STORY
Original parts of the Berlin Wall on
Bernauer Strasse merge with art.
This street forms a 1,5-kilometre
open air exhibition about the Berlin
Wall, which famously came down
25 years ago. See p.9 for more
about the anniversary festivities.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Berlins integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straenbahn (trams) run
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and youll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local.
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights,
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train
services. Vending machines have instructions in English
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlins
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; youll only need
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone 2,60, ABC 3,20)
you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited
transfers; its cheaper to buy four tickets at once (VierFahrten-Karte, 8,80). Buy a 1,50 Kurzstrecke (short
TAXIS
CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
ABOUT IYP
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
LATVIA
LITHUANIA
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM
POLAND
UKRAINE
GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
ITALY
HUNGARY
SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
GEORGIA
BULGARIA
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA
18,50
Available at the Berlin Tourist Infos, BVG + S-Bahn, in many hotels and online.
berlin-welcomecard.de
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Sports in Berlin
Sports in Berlin
BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)
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Basics
ELECTRICITY
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and
many hotels will have them at the front desk too.
ERASMUS STUDENT
NETWORK
How do international students get to meet locals
and the city during an academic exchange? The
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student
associations in Europe. It was developed to help
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.
8
MONEY
Germany uses the euro (). Banknotes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Coins,
whose design depends on in which country they were
minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
cents and 1 and 2. Credit and debit card payment is
possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
Exchange oces can be found at the major train stations.
CLIMATE
30
80
25
70
PROGRESS
60
20
50
15
40
10
30
5
0
Rainfall (mm)
Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlins local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weie, is only really palatable mit Schuss, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (kloob mah-tea) ice tea,
made with extract of the South American mat plant, caeine
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to
just below the top label and top it up with wodka).
Temperature C
20
Jan
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov Dec
-5
10
0
Rainfall (mm)
berlin.inyourpocket.com
It's easy to forget how much progress was made since those
joyful days in November 1989; West-Berlin was an oversubsidised and unsustainable half-city, while in East Berlin
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
both the society and the city centres were crumbling away.
It took decades for the two Berlins to grow together again,
and only now that the traces of the Wall become ever more
faint, and as West Berlin enjoys increased attention, that
we can start to say the city is truly reunited. For those who
remember 1989, it's odd to imagine that in the meantime a
new generation of Berliners who were born after this event
has grown up. And in just 3 years, the Wall will have been
gone just as long as it once divided this city. Berliners have
no doubt that the Wall won't be forgotten soon.
ANNIVERSARY EVENTS
79 NOVEMBER
Various events take place in Berlin in the anniversary
weekend of 7-9 November. A 15-kilometre Border
of Light, consisting of 8000 lit-up balloons, follows
the route of the Wall through central Berlin between
Bornholmer Strasse and the Oberbaumbrcke bridge.
Each balloon has a patron, whose personal stories
can be read at www.fallofthewall25.com. On Sunday
9 November theres a service at the Bernauer Strasse
memorial, followed by the opening of the renovated
documentation centre. In the afternoon, Mikhail
Gorbachev, Mikls Nmeth, Lech Wasa and other key
personalities kick o celebrations at Gendarmenmarkt,
after which Daniel Barenboim directs an open-air
concert at the Brandenburg Gate. Around 19:00 the
8,000 balloons along the Wall are released. Read more
about this and all other events related to the Wall
anniversary at wall.visitBerlin.com.
October - November 2014
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboims award-winning
Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
Unter den Linden are completed.QC-3, Bismarckstrae
110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets 14-220.
ADMIRALSPALAST
This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlins roaring 20s.
Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a
private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta
The Merry Widow, and Brecht tried out his new theatre
here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on
plays, concerts and musicals.QF-3, Friedrichstrae 101,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99,
www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets
21-79.
Classical
Masterpieces
Italy as Prussias guest
KOMISCHE OPER
Starting o as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the
buildings monumental neo-baroque main hall survived
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF-3,
Behrenstrae 55, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets 9150.
WINTERGARTEN: MADNESS
schaubhne
Theatre with English surtitles
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Franzsischer Dom
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlins most spectacular
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821,
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a
concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
at the venue.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.
de. Tickets 10-99.
BERLINER RESIDENZ
CONCERTS
SHOWS
11
EVENT TICKETS
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel
concierges, at ticket oces (also in major department
stores) and online.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also
at Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 13, Mitte.QC-4, Hardenbergstrae 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzbergs Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pickup.QH-4, Oranienstrae 29, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36.
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-language service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs.
papagena.de.
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Slotm achines
Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are
served during the break. New shows are put on several
times per year.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 96, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.
wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun
18:00. Tickets 25-60.
FILM FESTIVALS
Apart from the huge Berlinale lm festival in February,
Berlin has over 40 smaller international lm festivals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
5-12 Oct: Latin American FF, Babylon, www.lakinobln.com
16-19 Oct: Zebra Poetry FF, Babylon, www.
literaturwerkstatt.org
22-26 Oct: Porn FF, www.pornlmfestivalberlin.de
4-9 Nov: East European Cinema FF, Cottbus, www.
lmfestivalcottbus.de
29 Oct - 9 Nov: Premire Brasil, HKW, www.hkw.de
916 Nov: Kuki Childrens FF, 2 venues, www.kukiberlin.com
11-16 Nov: Interlm Shorts FF, 6 venues, www.
interlm.de
11-16 Nov: Afrikamera, Arsenal, www.afrikamera.de
1-9 Nov: Spanish FF, Babylon, www.
berlinspanischeslmfest.com
26 Nov - 3 Dec: Russian Filmweek, 3 venues, www.
russische-lmwoche.de
28 Nov - 7 Dec: Around the World in 14 lms,
Babylon, www.14lms.de
October - November 2014
13
DAL EXHIBITION
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CINEMAS
DaliBerlin.de
Events
CLASSICAL MUSIC
5 Oct, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Haydn and Mahler
PH
9 & 10 Oct, 20:30
Deutsches
Symphonie-Orchester
Berlin,
Cameron Carpenter (organ)
Conductor: Giancarlo Guerrero; organ concerto by Terry
Riley
PH
11 Oct, 20:00
Robert Leonardy (piano)
Works by Busoni, Schulho, Stravinsky and Schubert
PH
12 Oct, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin,
Dorothea Rschmann (soprano)
Conductor: Marc Albrecht; Works by Ligeti, Berg and Mahler
PH
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ADRIA
The lm Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of
old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30.
QSchlostrae 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz,
tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets
7,40-9,40.
BABYLON MITTE
A 1920s lmhouse with a great program, but beware
of dubbed lms. The building itself is a example of New
Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent
lms accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG-2, RosaLuxemburg-Strae 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de.
Tickets 7.
CENTRAL KINO
Art-house lms and mini lm fests take place in this
small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruy
courtyard.QG-2, Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS
Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www.
kino-central.de. Tickets 6,50, Tue, Wed 5,50.
CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL
CineStar IMAX has blockbuster lms and documentaries
in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX
quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original
cinema has Germanys widest range of Hollywood
and arthouse movies in their original English version.
QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center),
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00,
www.cinestar.de. Tickets 6-13.
HACKESCHE HFE
Mainly shows foreign lms in their original language.
QG-2, Rosenthaler Strae 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.
org. Tickets 8; Mon, Tue 6,50.
SPUTNIK
Berlins highest cinema screens a lot of indie lms,
many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In
a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a
bit dicey working your way to the theater, but its
safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the
furniture.QG-5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU
Sdstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.
com. Tickets 5-6,5.
October - November 2014
15
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NEW MAGICIANS
NEW ILLUSIONS
8 Nov, 19:00
Berliner Philharmoniker, Ivo Kahnek (piano)
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Martinu and
Beethoven
PH
14 Oct, 20:00
Freiburger Barockorchester, Petra Mllejans
(violin)
Conductor: Gottfried von der Goltz; Works by Hndel,
Vivaldi and Schmidt
PH
10 Nov, 20:00
Russisches Nationalorchester, Mischa Maisky
(cello)
Conductor: Mikhail Pletnev; Works by Shostakovitch and
Tchaikovsky
PH
12 Nov, 20:00
Lang Lang (piano)
Works by Mozart and Chopin
PH
21 Oct, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Alice Sara Ott
(piano)
Conductor: Karel Mark Chichon; Works by Dvork and Grieg
PH
13 Nov, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Paul Lewis
(piano)
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Beethoven and
Hartmann
PH
5 Nov, 20:00
Mitsuko Uchida (piano)
Works by Franz and Beethoven
PH
7 Nov, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Kurtg, Lachenmann
and Beethoven
PH
14 Nov, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Janine
Jansen (violin)
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Debussy, Chausson,
Ravel and Prokoev
PH
17 Nov, 20:00
Staatskapelle Berlin, Maria Joo Pires (piano)
Conductor: Paavo Jrvi; Works by Messiaen, Mozart and
Schumann
PH
19 Nov, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Dukas, Mozart and
Stravinsky
PH
26 Nov, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Joshua Weilerstein; Works by Shostakovitch,
Schumann and Tchaikovsky
PH
27-29 Nov, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker, Martha Argerich (piano)
Conductor: Riccardo Chailly; Works by Mendelssohn
Bartholdy, Schumann and Rachmaninov
PH
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25.11.2014
Tempodrom
20:00 Uhr
09.10.2014
Tempodrom (Kl. Arena)
20:00 Uhr
20.11.2014
Tempodrom
20:00 Uhr
www.prknet.de
www.mariannefaithfull.org.uk
15.10.2014
Columbiahalle
20:00 Uhr
MARIANNE FAITHFULL
& URBAN DANCE
On 25 November, legendary singer-songwriter and
actress Marianne Faithfull visits Berlin for her
50th Anniversary Tour
concert at the Tempodrom.
She recounts half a century
of her successes with her
characteristic voice, playing hits like Broken English, Vagabond Ways and As
Tears Go By.
Urban Dance fans can look forward to mesmerising
performances of Popping, Hip Hop, House, Locking,
BBoying and Voguing styles during the Snipes Funkin
Stylez international Urban Dance Battle, from 20-22
November. The preselection, followed by parties,
take place at the Ritter
Butzke club in Kreuzberg,
while the World Team Battle is at Tempodrom. For
more details and tickets
see www.semmel.de.
October - November 2014
17
EXHIBITIONS
16 Oct - 16 Nov
Month of Photography Berlin
With 125 exhibitions across the city, Berlins biannual Month
of Photography is dedicated to Upheavals and utopia:
the other Europe, with themes like borders, immigration
and refugees taking centre stage. Young and old, classic
and experimental photography can all be admired at the
participating venues; the main exhibition in the MartinGropius-Bau (until 14 Dec, admission free) shows the
contemporary photography exhibition MemoryLab: The
Sentimental Turn. For more details see www.mdf-berlin.de.
MG & other venues
1 & 2 November
Museumsfest Deutsches Historisches Museum
This years museum festival at the German Historical
Museum is all about the 25th anniversary of the fall of the
Berlin Wall; visitors can learn more about the event, note
down their personal memories and watch lms; admission
to the exhibitions is free.
DH
WEST:BERLIN EXHIBITION
To anyone who realises how crazy Berlins history
is, its not surprising at all that the new West:Berlin
exhibition is located in an elegant palace in the former
East Berlin that itself was dismantled and stored in
West Berlin for many years. For half a century, West
Berlin was a heavily politicised and highly subsidised
Island of Freedom marooned inside the GDR, and
500 exhibits show the development of this half of the
city, from post-war ruins via its function as a showcase
of the western Allies, and from the years of decline
after the fall of the Wall in 1989 to its current revival.
Photographs, art, objects, cars and an audio-salon with
the sounds of the half-city demonstrate why West for
many is still best.
WEST:BERLIN, 14 Nov - 28 June. Open Tue-Sun
10:00 - 18:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Ephraim-Palais, G-3,
Poststr. 16, tel. +49 30 24 00 21 62, www.west.berlin.
Admission 7, first Wednesday of the month free.
18 Berlin In Your Pocket
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Until 30 Nov
19141918: The First World War
Nine million soldiers and almost six million civilians died
in the First World War, the rst industrialised, total war in
history. It changed not only subsequent armed conicts,
but also inuenced political thought and action for many
years to come. This special exhibition oers a multifaceted
overview of the war as well as its prerequisites and
consequences, and approaches this previously unknown
escalation of violence from a broad perspective.
DH
Until 31 Dec
Moshe Gershuni No Father No Mother
Moshe Gershuni (Tel Aviv, 1936) is one of the most
important Israeli artists. His existential work - an ongoing
project over more than forty years - is uncompromising,
and his paintings, drawings and sculptures leave plenty
of room for associations. Gershuni works horizontally. He
covers the oor with paper and crawls across with his
hands soaked in paint.
NA
THE HARP
Just one minute o Kurfrstendamm, The Harp is a
haven for music and sports fans alike. Two bars, a cozy
ambience, four large TVs and two big screens provide
the setting for a great night out, or an afternoon full
of excitement and entertainment while following
international football, rugby and other sports, or
playing a round of darts.QB-4, Giesebrechtstrae
15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30
22 32 87 35, info@harp-pub.de, www.harp-pub.de.
Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. EBW
MG MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstrae
7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
MS MAX-SCHMELING-HALLE, Am Falkplatz, tel.
+49 30 44 30 45, www.max-schmeling-halle.de.
NA NEUE NATIONALGALERIE, Potsdamer
Strae 50, tel. +49 30 266 26 51, www.neuenationalgalerie.de.
O2 O2 WORLD, O2-Platz 1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88
99, www.o2world-berlin.de.
PH PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae
1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
RS RADIALSYSTEM V, Holzmarktstrae 33, tel.
+49 30 28 87 88 50
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19
Mitte
Mitte
Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten
park began as the Great Electors hunting grounds in the
1600s. Trac passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around
the Siegessule victory column. The Strae des 17. Juni
leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of it are the
state museums of the Kulturforum and the Potsdamer Platz
district with its soaring corporate buildings.
Getting there
Arrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof
station, central for the city but not really close to anything.
S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west
of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line
takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.
Pocket Walk
Start o at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before
heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer
Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the
adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstrae for
the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north
along Friedrichstrae and turn right at Mohrenstrae for
Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den
Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and
Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Strae, and pass
through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche
Hfe complex before walking down Oranienburger Strae
for the Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here
back to Brandenburger Tor.
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berlin.inyourpocket.com
GERMAN
ALPENSTUECK
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad,
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the
palate.QF-2, Gartenstrae 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof,
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00 - 01:00. . TUGBS
ZILLE-STUBE
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille,
whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered
banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu
are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade
(beaf-stued cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00 - 22:00. . E
ASIAN
KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup
is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are
rich and buttery.QF-3, Oranienburger Strae 69, Mitte,
MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.
kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. . AB
MONSIEUR VUONG
Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese
restaurant in Mitte. There are only ve dishes and two daily
specials, but theyre so delicious youll be ordering a second
bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gi
bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. Youll have to ght
the ber-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesnt take
reservations.QG-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 46, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.
monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . S
FINE DINING
AIGNER
One of Berlins best places to eat, Aigner is truly international,
as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate
from a famous Viennese caf that closed in the 1980s.
Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve awardwinning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the
market.QF-3, Franzsische Strae 25, Mitte, MU
Franzsiche Strae, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.
aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 02:00. .
TUGBSW
BORCHARDT
Borchardt didnt have to invest much to make a good
rst impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
buildings original tile oors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a dierent menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
October - November 2014
21
Mitte
Mitte
PARIS-MOSKAU
Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
positioned between new government oces and hotels.
Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving
up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now.
Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust,
tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, theres a
lunch menu as well.QE-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten,
MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat,
Sun 18:00 - 24:00. . A
INDIAN
Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00
Mon-Sun from 18:00
Restaurant PARIS-MOSKAU
Alt-Moabit 141
tel. 394 20 81
restaurant@paris-moskau.de
www.paris-moskau.de
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF-3, Franzsische
Strae 47, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. . GB
FACIL
At the Mandala Hotels Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant,
chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare
using only fresh, local products direct from the market.
The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty
vegetables and exotic herbs. Facils design is a post-modern,
glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that
retracts.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 3, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de.
Open . Closed Sat, Sun Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. . UGBW h
FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurants name comes from a tongue-twister and
the light, sh-focused menu is for a very rened palate.
Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef rst
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as
those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei
(as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep
carpets and a replace.QF-3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte,
MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00.
. PAG hh
22 Berlin In Your Pocket
AAPKA
Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz,
Aapka oers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You
can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the
young Prenzl Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by
later for cocktails.QG-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94,
www.aapka.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.
. B
INTERNATIONAL
NOLAS AM WEINBERG
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the
terrace, which is perfect for pretending to be in the
mountain air of St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until
16:00 and you can order meals until midnight.QG-2,
Veteranenstrae 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 01:00. . TUGBS
REINHARDS
Reinhards friendly sta can whisk a coee to your table
in no time, or if youre here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG-3,
Poststrae 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. -.
TGBS
TRAUBE
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolho, The
Grape serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes
or compose their own menus, with or without wines.
The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF-2,
Reinhardtstrae 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel.
+49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00
- 15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00 - 23:45. Closed Sun. .
TGB
berlin.inyourpocket.com
CAFS
BARCOMIS DELI
Barcomis is well known for its house-roasted coee and
luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
meringue cake, devils food cake, pecan pie and other
heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly
cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there
are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg
Kaeersterei outlet (Bergmannstrae 21) has fresh coee.
QF-5, Sophienstrae 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.
barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. .
TGBS
DIGITAL EATERY
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsofts very
rst caf showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy
spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent
selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the
counter (8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge
your electronic devices or use the free wi. Best of all
are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out
Microsoft products or play Xbox games. To celebrate the
first anniversary of Microsoft Berlin, the Digital Eatery offers
a 20% discount on the lunch menu in November; simply
mention Berlin In Your Pocket discount.QF-3, Unter
den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.
digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W
SANKT OBERHOLZ
A large two-oor caf overlooking the busy street crossing.
Something of a public workspace for IT entrepreneurs from
the surrounding Silicon Allee internet startups, its the ideal
place to crack open a Mac and get some work done using
the free wi and electricity plugs. Or just come for the
coee, bagels, muns and New York cheesecake.QG-2,
Rosenthaler Strae 72a, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 24 08 55 86, www.sanktoberholz.de. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. GW
Digital Eatery
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
BACK TO SCHOOL
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. Its the
watering hole for adult students from all around the
world who are learning German at the GLS language
school, in the same complex. Theyre greatly helped by
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg,
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89
27, www.gls-berlin.de.
SOPHIENECK
A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of
the most charming cafs in Mitte. Located near Hackescher
Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted
trendication, staying true to its warm mishmash decor
of art nouveau and poster art. The menu oers delicious
Central European fare, accompanied by an international
wine list.QG-2/3, Groe Hamburger Strae 37, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.
sophieneck-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 02:00.
Nightlife
BARS
AUFSTURZ
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick o your night. Prices are reasonable
and the place looks good, with changing modern art
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger
Strae haunt.QF-3, Oranienburger Strae 67, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07,
kontakt@aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from
12:00. EB
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RMSCHRMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters
can be found hidden at the dark end of a gratied
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from
the crumbling walls, aordable beers and cocktails, a stage,
plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on
having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in
the back yard shows foreign lms in original version.QG3, Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
post@eschschloraque.de,
www.eschschloraque.de.
Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW
October - November 2014
23
Mitte
Mitte
CASINO
SPIELBANK BERLIN
The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
a tour including game instructions.QE-4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de. Open
11:00 - 05:00. Admission 2,50. Minimum age is 18,
ID required; dress code is smart casual.
REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Manns forlorn ospring,
Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though
it often has a DJ, no one dances here. Its a setting for
making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF2, Novalisstrae 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel.
+49 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de.
Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
CLUBS
NEW
KNUTSCHFLECK
Opening in October, the hickey is Berlins newest
Burlesque-style bar, located on Alexanderplatz opposite
the Park Inn hotel. Run by a group of local ladies, this is a
caf, Biergarten, restaurant, cocktail bar and show theatre
in one. Expect a programme of events held on the stage,
including performances inspired by Coyote Ugly, Rocky
Horror Picture Show, Pulp Fiction, Moulin Rouge and
more. Theres also Berlinerisch food, beer and cakes,
and a selection of 150 cocktails that uctuate in price as
demand changes.QG-3, Alexanderstr. 3, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.knutschfleck-berlin.com.
MEIN HAUS AM SEE
Its all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the
My Lake House makes it very easy with its large slope of
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture
lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering
locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7,
its a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On
the menu are drinks, exotic coee varieties and chilli hot
choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG2, Brunnenstrae 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com,
www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours
Open 24/7. . TUENGBSW
24 Berlin In Your Pocket
KAFFEE BURGER
The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
decades of the alternative scenes smoke and its stuck-in-theSocialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminers
wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry
slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning
anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG-2, Torstrae
60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64
95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E
WEEK-END CLUB
A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th oor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
agency specialising in saying no) on the corner of OttoBraun-Strae.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open ThuSat 23:00-04:00.
Soda Club
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
BRANDENBURGER TOR
Berlins landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans
in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the
goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot
atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades
here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torchlit marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and
then the Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in
for decades. Berliners celebrated the Walls fall in 1989 by
standing on it in front of the gate, and after renovations the
gate is the proud focus point of the renewed square again.
QF-3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor.
GENDARMENMARKT
Twin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to the early
1700s), the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl Langhans)
and a row of luxury hotels make up this classic square. The
name stems from the mid-1700s when military regiments
were stationed here.QF-3, Markgrafenstrae, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae.
NEUE SYNAGOGE
The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance
the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from
1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, rst
PUBS
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn
station oer more than enough space for natives and
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make
sure that you wont miss a single goal. Irish and German
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages ow freely.QG-3,
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.
kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW
berlin.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
Soda
Club
House - RnB - Soul
Danceclassics - electro
KulturBrauerei
on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through
Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the
thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of
whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue
in Germany. A subtle but eective sound installation adds
to the experience.QF-3, Oranienburger Strae 28-30,
Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00,
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:0020:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct
until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat
closed. Admission 3,50/3.
NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Berlins tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only
truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche.
The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the
entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlins 750th birthday
in the area in which the shermens settlement rst began.
No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many
of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that
the GDR government could aord. The small shops in the
area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly
ll the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river.
On Rathausstrae, theres a row of restaurants that aunt
old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt
historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the
Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing
exhibits related to Berlin.QG-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte,
MU Klosterstrae, www.stadtmuseum.de.
October - November 2014
25
Mitte
Mitte
www.inyourpocket.com
POTSDAMER PLATZ
Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
war, and suered again when most remaining buildings
were demolished to make way for the Walls death strip.
Hotel and oce skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
The most popular public space and architectural attraction
is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
REICHSTAG
The name together with its monumental size make most
people associate Germanys neoclassical parliamentary
building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After
hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on re
just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in
January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during
which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously
wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a
reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999.
Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps
the most public federal building in the world through its
glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting
the buildings history circle the rim above the parliament
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the
panoramic view from the top. Its best to book an entry
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up
for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the
road. Photo ID is required.QF-3, Platz der Republik 1,
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/
htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30,
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.
CHURCHES
DEUTSCHER DOM
The baroque German Church from 1701 was completed
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged
by re in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically
in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows
and the impressive building models on the top oor. Free
tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking
is required for individual visitors.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt
1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
FRANZSISCHER DOM
The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkts
grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and
similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the
war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque
Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the
other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and
French only), dedicated to the thousands of French
protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century.
Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40
metres above street level, with great views all around.
QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel.
+49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open
12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon.
Admission 2/1, viewing balcony 2.50/1.
Schtzenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte
(Nhe Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com
BERLINER DOM
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from
1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were
still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime
demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern
dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up
to the domes rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side
exhibit rooms and good views.QG-3, Am Lustgarten,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36,
www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission 7/4.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Anfahrt | Directions
U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)
MEMORIALS
FHRERBUNKER
One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed
suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life,
Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an
air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced
concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached
by walking to the end of In den Ministergrten, o
Ebertstrae. A parking area surrounded by a prefabricated apartment complex covers the location, which
was entirely sealed o during the complexs construction
in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the
Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on
Wilhelmstrae.QF-3, In den Ministergrten, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS
OF EUROPE
This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness
surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are
estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site
serves as Germanys national memorial to those victims.
The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a
eld of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height,
creating an undulating landscape that lls two city blocks.
The memorial has an undergound information centre
which is not suitable for children.QF-3, Cora-BerlinerStrae 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26
39 43 36, besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.
stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:0020:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free.
MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF4, Friedrichstrae 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@
bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
5/3,50.
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ONE YEAR
MICROSOFT BERLIN
27
Mitte
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree oers
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology,
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as
well as their cross-overs into modernity.
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE
Czanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann
are some of the artists whose works hang around
this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like
structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by
a beautifully battered colonnade.QG-3, Bodestrae
1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42
42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
ALTES MUSEUM
This neoclassic building by Prussias star architect
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art
collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical
antiquities were the focus, and today the museum
uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a wellpresented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and
Roman history.QG-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
NEUES MUSEUM
Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
in 2009, the New Museum is new again and is full
of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and
Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular
nds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and
King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection
has nds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval
Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered
statues that were considered to be degenerate art
by the Nazis.QG-3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 12/6.
PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019.
Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the
amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way
from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG-3,
Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
12/6.
International
HAMBURGER BAHNHOF
Berlins wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
converted train station. Its well worth a visit by those curious
about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat
(Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers xated by bars of neon
lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are
the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE-2,
Invalidenstrae 50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof,
tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spk-berlin.de, www.
hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
MUSEUM FR FILM UND FERNSEHEN
(FILM AND TV MUSEUM)
Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the
personalities that gave it glamour and style came from
Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors
Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country
with a strong lm-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set
designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and
exhibits on Leni Riefenstahls shooting of Olympia (1936)
and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda lms will impress
seen-that lm bus. The museum ends with special eects
and science ction.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 2 (Sony
Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission 6/4,5.
MUSEUM FR NATURKUNDE
(NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM)
All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere theres
the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites,
the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird
Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla
Bobby from the primates hall.QF-2, Invalidenstrae 43,
Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85
91, info@mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,50.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
museum
Potsdamer Platz
entrance:
Leipziger Platz 7
MUSEUMSINSEL
Mitte
www.DaliBerlin.de
October - November 2014
29
Mitte
PANORAMAPUNKT
Mitte
Shopping
DEPARTMENT STORES
ALEXA CENTRE
A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
ve oors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafs. Theres a
massive kids area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
exhibition.QG-3, Grunerstrae 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
Landesarchiv Berlin
PANORAMAPUNKT
It takes just 20 seconds on Europes fastest elevator to
get shot up to Berlins best viewpoint, on the 24th and
25th oor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans
Kollho s magnicent 1930s-inspired building refers to
New Yorks skyscraping glory days but also resembles
the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the
top oors theres a short lm and an exhibition about
the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which
went from a world-class entertainment district to a Walldivided wasteland and back again within a generation.
The caf and rooftop terrace oer great close-up views
of Berlins highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust
memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and
Tiergarten park.QE-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar
10:00-18:00. Admission 6,50/5, family ticket 15,50.
NEUE NATIONALGALERIE
Youd think that the art world had gone to minimalist
extremes when passing Mies van der Rohes empty glass
box of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all
underground. The marvellous collection includes Otto Dix,
George Grosz, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Picasso and
Leger and many more modern artists.QE-4, Potsdamer
Strae 50, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/4. Temporary exhibitions extra.
VIEWPOINTS
FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)
The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainly brings a level of humour to Berlins skyline. The
368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969,
70m higher than the Eiel tower and the tallest building in
Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant
with a rotating oor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.
QG-3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
www.tv-turm.de. Admission 12/8.
30 Berlin In Your Pocket
MALL OF BERLIN
Opened in late September, this huge shopping
mall sits on the spot where the famous Wertheim
department store dazzled Berliners 100 years ago. The
huge billion-euro mall has all the usual fashion and
electronics retailers, a food court and supermarkets in
the basement. Centrepiece is a spectacular 23-metre
high covered piazza.QF-4, Leipziger Platz 12, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, www.mallofberlin.de. Open
09:00 - 22:00.
MARKETS
KUNST UND NOSTALGIEMARKT
Lining the way to the Pergamon Museum are canal-side
stalls carrying crafts and souvenirs including red-and-green
Ampelmnnchen products.QF-3, Am Kupfergraben,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 16:00 Open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Hotels
OVER 200
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the sta provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles 240 379, 304 doubles 216 - 478, 78 suites 531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh
150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and longterm stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstrae 185190 are close to all the action.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.
de. 157 rooms (157 suites 130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh
75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded oors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstrae 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldsh
pond for frolicking around in summer.QF-2, Tieckstrae
12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50,
info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms
(singles 95 - 155, doubles 125 - 225). AG
PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ
Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germanys thirdlargest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all
renovated and stocked with a coeemaker and ironing
board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.
QG-3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@rezidorparkinn.com,
www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles
89 - 125, 671 doubles 89 - 125, 23 suites 130 - 185).
Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh
HILTON
Maybe its the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants
and exotic spa treatments.QF-2, Mohrenstrae 30,
Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@
berlin.inyourpocket.com
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31
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Str.
Derf
APRIL
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD-5,
Winterfeldstrae 56, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. -. UNGBS
BAVARIUM
A Bavarian restaurant oddly located in the basement of the
Europa-Center mall by the Gedchtniskirche. Where buxom
waitresses plonk down hearty German dishes and big glasses
of Lwenbru, Radler and Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune
of oompah-music. How much more German can it get?QD-4,
Tauentzienstrae 9-12 (Europa-Center), Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 261 43 97, www.
bavarium-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . TUG
KNESE
Alt-Berliner, traditional Old Berlin cuisine, is on oer at rustic
Knese. Try the Knigsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable
prices. Theres also a selection of international meals and
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some
good South-African wine.QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 63,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48,
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. . TB
ZILLEMARKT
Its easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his
charming portraits of Berlins lower classes, stroll in and order a
jellied boiled pork, stued cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst.
Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner,
and you can down a Zillebru beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.QC4, Bleibtreustrae 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de, www.zillemarkt.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB
Local cuisine
Wartburgstrae 54
Berlin - Schneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
1000 m
berlin.inyourpocket.com
SCHNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern
on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel
variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree,
ldstr
Zillemarkt
RENGER-PATZSCH
Upscale German dining with a dierence. The interior is kept
casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food.
Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed
mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a
selection of tasty Alsatian ammekuchen.QD-5, Wartburgstrae
54, Schneberg, MU Eisenacher Strae, tel. +49 30 784 20
59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. .
Winterfeldtplatz
Frankenstr.
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33
Suksan
ASIAN
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlins shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD-4,
Ansbacher Strae 4, Schneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.
suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
JJ
Zillemarkt
Cafhaus Restaurant
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well o the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in dierent variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB-3,
Rntgenstrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . TVGBS
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieters
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who
cant move well after a seven-course meal make a point of
staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and
the Far East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on
the menu.QD-4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20,
www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
. G h
HUGOS
The InterContinentals Michelin-starred French restaurant
on the 14th oor has stunning views across the park
to Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeiers cuisine is
equally dazzling; expect subtle creations blending ne
avours in the lightest of dishes.QD-4, Budapester Strae
2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26
02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30.
Closed Mon, Sun. . TUGW h
INTERNATIONAL
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
34 Berlin In Your Pocket
DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the rst to grace Berlins simple
tables with some French nesse, even if it was in what
began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
cheeses.QC-4, Meinekestrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmannrestaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
. UGB
DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlins roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling,
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC-4, Kurfrstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. . UGB
SUKSAN
DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in the
aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
1920s building near the Kudamm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD-4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55, Charlottenburg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.
duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. -.
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only.
Every day theres a completely dierent menu, with European
and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC-4,
Mommsenstrae 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae,
tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . NGS
ITALIAN
FRANCUCCIS
Francuccis kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with homemade pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black
trues.QB-4, Kurfrstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TVGBSW
LA FORCHETTA
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer,
a romantic terrace is available.QA-5, Knigsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 24:00. B
LOCANDA
A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming
guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing
dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The
pasta, sh and meat dishes are simple, and all simply
delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite
the Schaubhne theatre.QB-4, Lehniner Platz 2,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69
68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . TNGBS
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
Ansbacherstrasse 4
(corner of Kurfrstenstrasse)
tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.
TRAVEL FAR.
EAT
AT HOME.
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
ORIGINAL
THAI
FOOD
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfrstenstrasse
U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz
Telefon 030.21 01 86 73
Telefax 030.21 01 86 88
www.suksan.de
October - November 2014
35
JAPANESE
SACHIKO SUSHI
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town,
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, heres
your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or
tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
. TGBS
MAROOUSH
Rened Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern
twist and gourmet food. The combined restaurant,
shisha lounge and cocktail bar has a luxurious and
tasteful dcor enhancing the equally exotic menu.
Pu on a shisha as you await your meal or come
on Friday or Saturday for dinner and dance, with
belly-dancers, live music and a party atmosphere.
QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 48, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35,
www.marooush.de. Open 15:00 - 01:00. E
CAFE KALWIL
A cosy and straight-friendly caf in gay old Schneberg.
Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. Theres fair trade coee, quality
teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals
and more.QD-4/5, Motzstrae 30, Schneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 22:00. . ABW
GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
Pastries, muns, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone caf. Great for
breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. . TUGBS
Nightlife
SPANISH
BARS
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can
weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include
Moorish and Catalan specialities and theres also tapas if
you just want to snack while watching the boulevards
shoppers pass by.QC-4, Kurfrstendamm 203-205,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88
92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 02:00. . B
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesnt take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things
after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite
steady on their feet.QD-5, Winterfeldstrae 50, Schneberg,
MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.
de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.
CAFS
CAF AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and
then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake.
This caf, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of
champions until 16:00 as well as regional food,
coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.
QD-4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. -. TUGB
CAF IM LITERATURHAUS
Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
polished canes and freshly ued pups, but you dont have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers
and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy
rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC-4,
berlin.inyourpocket.com
HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstrae. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC-4, Kantstrae 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelsch is, among other things, the term
used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and
appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but
still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their
youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner
Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and
a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out
the beer or coee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian
Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables
abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC-4,
Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 06:00. -. NBSW
JAZZ CLUBS
A-TRANE
Concerts at 22:00.QBleibtreustrae 1, Charlottenburg,
MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 25 50, info@atrane.de, www.a-trane.de. Open 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 04:00. E
Caf im Literaturhaus
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37
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Schlterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00
Irish Harp
PUBS
THE HARP
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap theres Guinness, Kilkenny, and
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports
events to be beamed on screens, and theres quiz nights
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special
occasions.QB-4, Giesebrechtstrae 15, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harppub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 13:00, Sat, Sun
from 10:00. -. EBW
CHURCHES
Union Jack
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most
striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
oating roof whose translucent skin oers shelter for
almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30
25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.
olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00.
Admission 7/5.
SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussias
rst queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace
in 1695, todays version, distinguished by its 505-meter
facade and central tower, took its nal form in 1790.
You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an
eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms
resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century
French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque
garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or
Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,
berlin.inyourpocket.com
GEDCHTNISKIRCHE
The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlins landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germanys culpability is declared on a plaque:
The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of
Gods judgement, which befell our people during the war
years.The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride:
even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel
and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are
worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained
glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many
of them free.QD-4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.
gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.
MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
(US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from
the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135,
Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818
19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Wed. Admission free.
C/O BERLIN
On 30 October, the famed C/O photo gallery reopens in the
iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. Theres
space for multiple exhibitions, and the gallery kicks o with
Will McBrides series I Fell in Love With the City showing
how post-war Berlin awakened in the 1950s. Check the site
for opening hours and prices.QC-4, Hardenbergstrae
22-24, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel.
+49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org.
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39
Hotels
OVER 200
DAS STUE
The luxurious, family-owned living room hotel, set in the
1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting
mix of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style
bar and many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches
and antelopes peering back at you. The rooms and grand
suites are spread across the old and new wings, adorned
with beautiful wooden and copper details. A small pool
can be found in the spa area, and theres the rst-class
Cinco restaurant.QD-4, Drakestrae 1, Tiergarten, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.
com. 80 rooms (70 doubles from 200, 20 suites 290740). PHUFGKDCW
INTERCONTINENTAL
Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
the InterContinental oers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
business solutions. After work, theres gourmet food at
Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation
options can be found in the large spa complex, with
several saunas and tness facilities.QD-4, Budapester
Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten,
tel. +49 30 260 20, berlin@interconti.com, www.
interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles 165 - 350, 498
doubles 170 - 400, 60 suites 215 - 2500). Breakfast
extra.
PTHAUFLEGBKDCW
hhhhh
40 Berlin In Your Pocket
WALDORF ASTORIA
Berlins newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies
a prime spot near Kurfrstendamm and the Kadewe
department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand
New York heritage, its decorated in lavish Art Deco style,
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms,
and a caf and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library
on the 15th oor with its concierge and great views is a
comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run
by star chef Pierre Gagnaire oers ne dining and 650
wines.QC-4, Hardenbergstrae 28, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.
waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from
250). PHAUFLGKDCwW
150-200
BLEIBTREU
Its hard to tell the hip guests from the hip neighbours that
share the deli and caf fronting the boutique-lined street.
The designer rooms operate by remote-control but are
furnished using allergy-friendly, ecological, natural fabrics
and furniture.QC-4, Bleibtreustrae 31, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, info@bleibtreu.
com, www.bleibtreu.com. 60 rooms (15 singles 115 157, 45 doubles 125 - 182). ARGK
GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE
Overlooking
the
Bauhaus
museum
between
Kurfrstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern
Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and
impresses with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harrys
New York Bar and a sizeable spa and tness centre.QD4, Ltzowufer 15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms
(singles/doubles from 99, 40 suites from 139).
PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
75-150
BERLIN, BERLIN
Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958
hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of
Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant give
way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety of styles.
Theres live sports action in the bar, while peace can be found
in the summer garden restaurant.QD-4, Ltzowplatz 17,
Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50,
info@hotel-berlin.de, www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms
(103 singles 100 - 195, 569 doubles 100 - 245, 29
suites 220 - 900). PHARUFLGKD
hhhh
BERLIN PLAZA
The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with
all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen
and free wi-. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid
traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.
QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 63, Charlottenburg, MU
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41
Prenzlauer Berg
Prenzlauer Berg
On a low hill northeast
of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an
old working-class district
in the former East Berlin
that came through the war
relatively unscathed. After
1989, the cool brigade
pounced on the area, and
houses that were once
home to East German
punks were renovated
in odes to pastel. The
number of wine shops and
young parents pushing
pricey prams indicates the level of gentrication here. The
best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz,
Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer
Bergs best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre,
set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also
covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the
west.
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berlin.inyourpocket.com
ZANDER
This award-winning restaurant is a ne blend of tradition,
innovation, and casual professionalism. Using mainly
regional products, Zander serves mouth-watering German
and international cuisine and excellent wines in a stylish
and intimate setting. Though zander (pike-perch) is a house
speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are highly
recommended.QG-2, Kollwitzstrae 50, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 76 78, www.
zander-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B
FAST FOOD
KONNOPKES IMBISS
The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Strae U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG-1, Schnhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. .
FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for esh can grill n
chill. Sta in 1930s outts serve excellent steaks, cooked
anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the
undecided, theres a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve
into the wine and cocktail menu.QH-1, Pappelallee 36,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
44 67 54 14, www.fleischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 open end.
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DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlins prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder
Strae, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW
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GERMAN
RESTAURATION 1900
Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
the weekly market, and on Sundays to ll up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buet.QH-2, Husemannstrae
1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49
30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. -. TBSW
PRECISE MYERS
Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myers is an upmarket
private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground oor, a tearoom
has a pleasant summer terrace.QH-2, Metzer Strae
26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel.
de. 51 rooms (8 singles 75 - 135, 33 doubles 85
- 185, 1 suite 195 - 345, 10 Premium 115 - 265).
HARG
Getting there
The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefelderplatz and Eberswalder Strae, close to most attractions.
From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstrae you can use tram
M1 to Eberswalder Strae as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer
Strae and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most convenient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatzs gentrication,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
Schrder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made
surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share
the menu; this is where to try ammekuchen, a thin-crust
Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is
friendly.QH-2, Knaackstrae 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, gugelhof@tonline.de, www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . A
October - November 2014
43
Prenzlauer Berg
ITALIAN
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG-2,
Schnhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB
Prenzlauer Berg
TOURIST INFORMATION
MUSEUMS
PRENZLAUER BERG
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Prenzlauer Bergs district tourist information centre
is inside the Kulturbrauerei complex. Sta advise
about events, nightlife, guided tours and sights.QG1/2, Schnhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 44 35 21 70, www.
tic-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
JAPANESE
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd
this ve-table joint, but theres takeout as well. Sake Maki,
California Make and vegetarian items all run about 3. All
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and sta speak
English.QH-2, Rykestrae 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. .
CAFS
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha ower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed caf. Serving up
coee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts,
its one of the better spots for people-watching or just
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells owers (Blume) from the
connected shop next door and the smell of coee and
fresh owers combines very well.QH-2, Kollwitzstrae 83,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
Noise and Smoke is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar
at night together with a variety of artists, students and
young in-crowd. But its more than just a caf - the adjacent
hotel has modern and aordable double rooms.QG-1,
Gleimstrae 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de.
Open 08:00 - 02:00.
Nightlife
SANTIAGO
This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
somewhat dodgy interior leather sofas and glitzy girl
statues that wouldnt look out of place in a nightclub
but manages to get the punters in with a range of
attractively priced oers like cocktails during the happy
(before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). Theres an
eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
weekends.QH-2, Wrtherstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
WEINSTEIN
An older crowd savours an evening of conversation
and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to
help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass.
There are few better places to try the outstanding
German whites that usually dont make it out of
the country and theres also a selection of sherries.
QH-1, Lychener Strae 33, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
WOHNZIMMER
If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
would vote to hang out here. The large living room is
ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and
GDR-era tables are constantly being shuffled to make
room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. Theres
coffee and pastries in the morning.QH-1, Lettestrae
6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49
30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00
- 04:00.
BARS
CLUBS
AUGUST FENGLER
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there arent just
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley)
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG-1, Lychner
Strae 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of
this otherwise spacious cellar. Dont miss the mad
monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many
clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark
courtyard.QH-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Schillingstrae, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05,
www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00
- 06:00.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
MAUERPARK
The immensely popular Wall Park has no greenery to speak
of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip thats
especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a ea market and the
immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from
15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a
crowd of thousands.QG-1, Eberswalder Strae, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, www.mauerpark.info.
Shopping
BOOKS
SODA CLUB
In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is
a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is
played on Thursdays and Sundays (5, starting off with
a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays theres five
dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance
classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchnhauser
Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
tel. +49 30 443 151 55, info@sodaberlin.de, www.
soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00
- 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and youll eventually nd an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is lled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you wont nd is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG-2, Schnhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
MARKETS
FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs
and antiques - its all available (though not particularly
cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark ea market. Arrive early
to avoid the crowds.QG-1, Bernauer Strae 63-64,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Strae, tel. 0176 29 25 00
21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.
October - November 2014
45
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain is a lively old workers district that has
completely been taken over by rad nightlife venues, grati
and leftist students moaning about Touris encroaching on
their favourite watering holes. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Strae
is full of cafs and bars, while Boxhagener Platz hosts the
popular Sunday eamarket. In the former border zone along
the river, the MediaSpree development plans for oces,
apartments and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many
vocal locals who fear theyll lose public access to the river. This
chapter also includes suburban sights east of Friedrichshain.
str.
tels
t
r.
sne
r
sel
Gr
We
ich
str.
Wies
Kas
kel-
CUPCAKE BERLIN
The very first thing that we learnt to bake together
with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert
snack with its own caf dedicated to it. Try The King
cupcake (with Elvis favourite ingredients), the sweet
Pretty in Pink or any of the other 20-odd creations.
Theres a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup
Str.
entw
eg
reib
Sch
str.
Spitta
str
erha
uer
Bah
strn. hofe
Ostkreuz
S
GLORY DUCK
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous
new place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with
ginger-mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other
toppings. Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or
one of the vegetarian options. Theres a good selection of
drinks and Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason
to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting
perspective lines, theres a large harbour scene on one
wall and the toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic
stickers.QI-4, Sonntagstrae 31, Friedrichshain, MS
Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.
de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. .
AUBSW
Haupts
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INTERNATIONAL
Eldenaer
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r.
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hstr.
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Schre
hstr.
inerstr
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str.
Str.
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idenw
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U
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hsam
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aden
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Palis
Str.
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str
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n-S
tr.
Getting there
From Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer
Strae, or to U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From
Nordbahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram,
known as the party tram at night.
SCHNEEWEISS
Schneewei is extremely stylish, very popular, and
very, very white. The delicious Alpine and new German
cuisine on the menu here is easily a match for the
chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic
design. This is the place to go if youre looking for a fullon dining experience, not just food.QSimplonstrae
16, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel.
+49 30 29 04 97 04, www.schneeweiss-berlin.
de. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. .
TGBS
berlin.inyourpocket.com
Glory Duck
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
030 / 63 96 53 31 // gloryduck.de
MON-FRI 12-24 / SAT+SUN 14-24
CAFS
KAUFBAR
At this homey caf you can wash down your chocolate
croissant with either a coee or carafe of red wine.
Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go:
the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays.
The only thing not for sale in the Buy Bar are their board
games.QJ-4, Grtnerstrae 4, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www.
kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 24:00. TUNGBSW
MACONDO
Macondo was the setting of Garca Mrquez novel 100
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful reading caf.
Theres old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday
market, good coee and original South American mate tea,
sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI4, Grtnerstrae 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Strae, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.
de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW
October - November 2014
47
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more
hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can
shake a bong at, Kreuzberg
feels neither east nor west.
It was the black sheep of
West Berlin, literally cornered up against the death
strip and left alone to play
loud music and draw on
the walls. By now, the protesting students of 1968
have grown grey alongside
the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg
relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional May
Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into a
long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise,
Kreuzberg is a perfectly safe district to wander through, and
its all about backgammon at the mens clubs, caf-sitting
along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular Oranienstrae and Bergmannstrae drags.
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors
in summer, and the upcoming Neuklln district. Here,
the Kreuzklln area around Reuterstrae is increasingly
attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird
nightlife spots.
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KIMCHI PRINCESS
Though this is not Berlins rst Korean restaurant, Kimchi
Princess is being hailed by the capitals gourmets as the
rst one to serve authentic dishes that is, not drowned
in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. Its indeed
excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be dicult to
nd a free table in the evening.QH-4, Skalitzer Strae 36,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02
03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. .
TUGBSW
Schlesisches
Gr
litze
Grlitzer r St
r.
Park
Str
.
Str.
CHAN
A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, cleancut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical
Asian street food. Theres everything from Thai spring
rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a
Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies
too.QH-5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU
Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chanberlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
. UNGBSW
er Str.
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Str.
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ner
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tr.
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re
ALTES ZOLLHAUS
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs
house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a
calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities
featuring things such as goats cheese, dumplings, mustard
sauce and compotes.QG-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Prinzenstrae, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.alteszollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. .
TUGBW
Ea
st S
id
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pe
nic
ke
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tr.
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lau
ger
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tr.
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chu
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Volkspark
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ber
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Platz
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Getting there
The Bergmannstrae area is best reached from
Friedrichstrae station on the U6; get o at Mehringdamm,
or at Platz der Luftbrcke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty
end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz
and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzklln bars are
within pubcrawling distance of Schnleinstrae and
Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.
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49
Kreuzberg
Sarods
SARODS
Kreuzbergs friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options
on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat
with roast rice, coriander and spices). Theres a good
selection of wines too.QFriesenstrae 22, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.
sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. .
TGBSW
AUSTRIAN
AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in
the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
antlers on the wall.QF-5, Bergmannstrae 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.
austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. . TUBS
Kreuzberg
RIEHMERS
The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves
a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope),
amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes
with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and
simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden
overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian
ocers.QF-5, Hagelbergerstrae 9, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmersrestaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. -.
TGBSW
FAST FOOD
BERGMANN CURRY
A friendly fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, meat
balls and more. The menus include
the upmarket Rockefella dish
(served on porcelain, with a glass
of champagne), and theres vegan
wurst and burgers, and sweet
potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot
chilli sauce from the bottles on the board of pain.QBergmannstrae 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmanncurry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
CURRY 36
If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, youll
order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in
comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you
might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus
Jolesch
Friesenstrae 22
tel. 69 50 73 33
www.sarods.de
50 Berlin In Your Pocket
INTERNATIONAL
HOPPETOSSE
An elegant white ship moored along Treptows Arena
complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional
and international meals to go with good sunset views
towards Oberbaumbrcke bridge, just upstream. For
daytime visitors theres drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit
up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI-5, Eichenstrae
4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03
40, www.arena-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00. -.
NGBSW
SAGE RESTAURANT
If theres such a thing as industrial charm, this is
where to find it; a fantastically designed restaurant
with starkly modern and white furnishings
contrasting with raw factory bricks, peeling paint and
chains. The food served is imaginative gastronomy;
in summer, Sage opens earlier to serve lunch on its
riverside terrace with deckchairs and a beach bar.
QH-4, Kpenicker Strae 18-20, Kreuzberg, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 755 49 40 71, www.
sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00. Closed Mon.
. TUEGBW
JOLESCH
Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of
Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is
named after Tante Jolesch, a Viennese auntie who loved to
cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like
goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with
sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take
your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH-4,
Muskauer Strae 1, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. . GB
Thai restaurant
GORGONZOLA CLUB
An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
carpaccio weve had, and with lovely seating in the green
outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are
additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner
cocktails simply go next door to the Wrgeengel bar.QH4, Dresdener Strae 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor,
tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. . B
Fantastic Berliner
ner
e Currywurst,
Curryw
quality organic
g c and
a vega
vegan
g snacks,,
and
nd a ranggee of hoto chili
c ssauces.
sauces
ITALIAN
CICCIOLINA
Dedicated to divas such as Je Koons porn star ex-wife La
Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious
Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food,
and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try
the Strasburgo ammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard
and Tirol bacon.QH-4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60,
www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. -.
TUNGBSW
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Open daily
ily 122:0
2:00-24:00
Sunday 12:000-21:00
Bergmannstrrae 88
Berlin-Kreuzbberg
www.bergmann-currry.com
October - November 2014
51
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
OSTERIA N1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood xture has a fantastic
Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic
regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from dierent parts of
Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta
with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps
the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six
dierent lunch menus from 7.QF-5, Kreuzbergstrae 71,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62,
www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. . B
Vicolo Bergmann
VICOLO BERGMANN
Tasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the
sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and
vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas
or the meat and sh dishes, and theres home-made bread
too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed
bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Dont miss the
sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF-5, Bergmannstrae 88,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88,
info@vicolo-bergmann.de, www.vicolo-bergmann.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
BEER GARDENS
Osteria N1
LUFTGARTEN
The large Biergarten around the former US ocers casino
in Tempelhofer Freiheit park has Bavarian beer, tables
beneath the chestnut trees and deckchairs in the sun.
Drop by for the American barbeque, large hamburgers
and other international food.QTempelhofer Freiheit
CAFS
CAF AM ENGELBECKEN
Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michaels church
is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was once a canal.
Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace
caf. View of the water and the rustling tall green reeds makes
this a peaceful respite from all things city while still being near
the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was once
lled with rubble, and part of the Walls death strip?). Pizza and
snacks are served and they oer a choice of cocktails.QH-4,
Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte, MU Heinrich-Heine-Strae, tel.
+49 157 88 94 70 91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open
10:00 - 24:00. . TUNGBSW
KUCHENKAISER
A melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since 1866,
the cake emperor is famous for its cakes and tarts, which were
sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s.
The restaurant also has a wide variety of German specialities
and international dishes. Theres a great choice of breakfasts,
a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch on Sundays. A mustsee in Berlin.QG/H-4, Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg, MU
Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. . B
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SALON SCHMCK
A crash-pad style neighbourhood caf that looks like a
time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food
is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and
fantastic home-made juice just make your own selection
of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and
even the occasional living room concert.QI-4, Skalitzer
Strae 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49
30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. . TNGBSW
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE
Within a historic market hall
building, the rustic Markthalle
restaurant is long and tall, with
wainscoting, simple wooden
furniture and a bar that locals belly
up to. Its a restaurant that doesnt
let its looks carry it: the kitchen
takes pride in its nouvelle takes
on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes
weekly, but count on Sptzle, Schweinebraten (braised
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to
American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check
if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.
QH-4, Pcklerstrae 34, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurantmarkthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . B
October - November 2014
53
Kreuzberg
Nightlife
Kreuzberg
Sightseeing
BARS
MUSEUMS
GALANDER
A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style
fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander
has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some
quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is
played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF-4,
Grossbeerenstrae 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open
18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM
One of Berlins best museums is unmistakably recognisable
by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the main
building. The huge complex set in and around an old
freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes,
computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there
are windmills and a brewery. Theres a hands-on Spectrum
science centre for children too.QF-4, Trebbiner Strae
9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40,
www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,5.
MILCHBAR
It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of
Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative
types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and
hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to
cheer on their teams when football games are screened.
The murals and dark dcor can heighten your wooziness if
youve had one round too many.QH-4, Manteuffelstrae
41, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611
70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00.
NBW
WRGEENGEL
Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuels
lm El ngel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a
great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a
dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50
reasons to delay your departure. To round it all o, there
are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH-4, Dresdener
Strae 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30
615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00.
. B
CLUBS
SO36
Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution
thats home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks
and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans.
On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or
Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the
friendly door sta.QH-4, Oranienstrae 190, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.
so36.de. Check their website for opening times.
UENG
WILD AT HEART
Rock on. One of Berlins rare live-music venues brings in
hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. Theres an
occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front
rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs
for the stage area.QH-5, Wiener Strae 20, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.
wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB
54 Berlin In Your Pocket
Shopping
MARKETS
MARHEINEKEHALLE
The old Markthalle XI from 1892 is now an upmarket and
slightly sterile venue for the organic market with about
50 stalls selling everything from bread to cheese and
fruit, much of it from the region.QF-5, Marheinekeplatz,
Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustrae, www.meinemarkthalle.de. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
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BERLIN IN BOOKS
The young, snap-happy American
student and artist Will McBride
(1931) arrived in West Berlin in
1955, and set about capturing the
post-war awakening of the city
in black and white photos. Until
the construction of the Berlin
Wall in 1961, the sky seemed the
limit for the city, and McBride crossed from West to East
observing the progress of the Wiederaufbau (rebuilding),
as well as the building of the Wall. Now, 120 of his photos
taken between 1956 and 1963 have been collected in
Berlin im Aufbruch (Berlins Renaissance). What makes this
book so special is that rather than documenting the city
from a safe distance, McBride is present in the photos,
as a participant in the depicted events, getting close to
workers constructing a road, women chipping mortar o
bricks from bombed buildings, playing children, rock n
roll dancers and fellow students riding a horse cart. In one
photo McBride is literally present when he catches himself
in the reection of a mirror in a caf, while focussing his
Leica on an animated group of women. Its remarkable
how timeless the themes and people are; the party in the
back yard, the people at the beach and the students on
the boat trip they are us, this is now, 50 years ago.
Berlin im Aufbruch; Fotograen 1956-1963
(Lehmstedt Verlag 2013, ISBN 9783942473675) by Will
McBride is for sale at Dussmann for 29.90, and can be
ordered at any other bookshop.
An exhibition dedicated to Will McBrides Berlin years
opens in C/O Gallery on 30 October; see p. 39.
MARKTHALLE IX
Everything you need for a picnic in Grlitzer Park. A historical
market hall from 1891 has been revived with a weekly
market (Fri, Sat), selling organic fruit and vegetables, cheese,
bread, meat and smoked sh. There are snack stands with
picnic tables, a childrens corner and a restaurant that
serves a delicious organic lunch menu every day. The busy
Streetfood Thursday has hipsters showing up in droves, and
theres breakfast on Sunday and occasional crafts and deli
market days too.QH-4, Eisenbahnstrae 42, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 577 09 46 61, www.
markthalle9.de. Open Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00. Admission free.
55
City tours
City tours
stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the
gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements.
Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlins dark,
fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also
free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight
tours, a street art workshop and an anti-pubcrawl.
QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64, www.
alternativeberlin.com. Tickets 10-20.
BERLIN UNDERWORLDS
Tour 1: Dark Worlds A bunker from the Nazi era. MarNov Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 11:00; Dec-Feb Mon
11:00 and 13:00, Thu-Sun 11:00.
Tour 2: From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris.
Enter a devastated albeit fascinating underground world.
Apr 1 - Oct 31, Thu-Sun 16:00.
Tour 3: Subways, Bunkers, Cold War a political history of Berlin from an unusual perspective. Mar-Nov Tues
11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 13:00; Dec-Feb Thu-Sun 13:00.
Tour M Breaching the Berlin Wall: Subterranean
escapes from East to West Berlin. Mar-Nov, Sun 10:30.
For further information see www.berliner-unterwelten.
de. Tickets 10/8, Tour M 13/10 (no reservation
required); the meeting point is at the southern entrance
of the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station at Brunnenstrae
105, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
INBERLIN TOURS
Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall
in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer
Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at xed
times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations
required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de,
www.inberlin.de. Tickets 10-16.
INSIDER TOURS
Insiders enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel
like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT
Coee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, 12/10). Other
tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam,
Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG-3, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com.
ISHERWOODS NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR
In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable Sodom on the Spree
with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous
club and revue theatre scene. The young gay British writer
Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye
To Berlin (of Cabaret fame). This excellent one-hour tour
through Isherwoods Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is
spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s
party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42,
brendan@10777tours.com, www.cabaret-berlin.com.
Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets
12.
NEW BERLIN TOURS
Free 3,5-hour city centre tours, popular with young
visitors who are just as interested in each other as in the
sights along the route (daily 11:00 and 13:00 from the
Brandenburger Tor Starbucks). They additionally oer
various themed tours and pub crawls.QF-3, Pariser Platz,
Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 51 05 00 30,
www.newberlintours.com. Tickets free/12.
ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS
The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the
Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30
and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich,
Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49
30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets 12/10.
SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS
The Berlin blog dedicated to slow travel oers quirky
cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore Berlins
most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West
Berlin, a walk on Kreuzbergs wild west side, a trip along
the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through
Kaiser Wilhelms Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin.com/
tours. Tickets 15.
57
Potsdam
Directory
FILMPARK BABELSBERG
Over 3,000 lms have been shot at the famous Babelsberg
UFA/DEFA studios, including Fritz Langs Metropolis (1927). The
themepark surrounding the studios is great for children and
adults. Though the topics may be unfamiliar to foreigners,
theres enough action to keep you amused, including stunt,
animal and pirate shows, studio tours and behind the scenes
insights into special eects through the years. Theres an Englishlanguage audioguide too. From Babelsberg S-Bahn station take
bus N601 or 690; alternatively take the RE train to Medienstadt
Babelsberg station and walk.QGrobeerenstrae, Potsdam,
MS Babelsberg, tel. +49 331 721 27 50, www.filmpark.
de. Open 10:00-18:00. Sept closed Mon. Nov-Mar closed.
Admission 21/17, children 14.
POTSDAM SIGHTS
FILMMUSEUM POTSDAM
Featuring the history of the nearby Babelsberg lm studios
and with changing exhibitions on the world of lm,
possibly the best thing about this museum are the evening
screenings of modern and classic international lms. Silent
lms are accompanied live by an antique cinema organ.
The Film Caf serves drinks and food.QMarstall am
Lustgarten/ Breite Strae 1a, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49
331 27 18 12, www.filmmuseum-potsdam.de. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4,50/3,50.
58 Berlin In Your Pocket
SCHLOSS CECILIENHOF
Twentieth-century history was made here in August 1945
when Stalin, Truman and Attlee decided the future of postwar
Germany. This half-timber mansion between two lakes in the
Neuer Garten was nished in 1917. In the same park is the
Marmorpalais. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station take
tram N92 or 96 to Reiterweg/Alleestrae, then bus N603
to Schlo Cecilienhof.QIm Neuen Garten 11, Potsdam,
tel. +49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Nov-Mar open until 17:00. Admission 6/5.
SCHLOSS SANSSOUCI
The 18th century rococo-style Schloss Sanssouci (without
worries) has a gorgeous approach up a ight of vineyard
terraces. Frederick the Great loved his little Prussian Arcadia
and was buried on here at his own request. The original
palace rooms and guest apartments host works by Rubens,
Van Dyck and Caravaggio. The palace sits within the 290
hectares of Park Sanssouci, which holds a botanical garden, an
Orangerie, Roman baths, the Chinese House, the Neues Palais,
and Karl Friedrich Schinkels Schloss Charlottenhof, whose
interior is perhaps the best preserved example of Schinkels
work. Each sight has its own separate admission charge and
changing exhibits. The hilltop Belvedere auf dem Pngstberg
is a romantic folly lookout tower completed in 1863. On busy
days arrive early to secure tour tickets, or join the tourism
oces Sanssouci tour which includes the palace even when
day tickets are sold out. From Potsdam Hauptbahnhof station
take bus N612, 614 or 695.QMaulbeerallee, Potsdam, tel.
+49 331 969 42 00, www.spsg.de. Open Apr-Oct 10:0018:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; park open 06:00-dusk.
Admission 12/8, park free or voluntary donation.
SPIELBANK POTSDAM
Together with many other imposing buildings in the area, the
building housing the Potsdam Spielbank Jokers Garden casino
since 2002 was designed by Frederick the Greats master builder
Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdor in the 1750s. Restored to
its former glory, the elegant building now is the venue for card
games, roulette and playing machines. Minimum age 18. Dress
code: smart, jacket required (rental available).QSchlostrae
14, Potsdam, MS Potsdam Hbf, tel. +49 331 290 93 00,
www.spielbank-potsdam.de. Open 17:30 - 03:00. Access to
slot machines from 11:00. Admission 5.
berlin.inyourpocket.com
ACCOUNTANTS
ERNST & YOUNG QFriedrichstrae 140, Mitte,
MS+U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 25 47 10, www.
ey.com.
KPMG QKlingelhferstrae 18, Tiergarten, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 206 80, www.kpmg.de.
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Emergencies, ambulance, re tel. +49 30 112;
Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31;
Police tel. +49 30 110;
Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.
BUSINESS CONNECTIONS
HOSPITALS
DENTISTS
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
DOCTORS
DR. ALEXANDRA HEISER QKurfrstendamm 139,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00
91 01.
DR. KARIN WROBEL QSchnhauser Allee 126 A,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
448 57 67.
DR. MICHAEL OPPEL QDerfflingerstrae 14,
Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 44 72 81
28, www.integrative-medizin.com.
EMBASSIES
AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstrae 76-79, Mitte, MU
Mrkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.
australian-embassy.de.
FRANCE QF-3, Pariser Platz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 590 03 90 00, www.
botschaft-frankreich.de.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
MOVING TO BERLIN
The following companies can help with every aspect of
relocation, including moving, permits, accommodation,
language courses and getting to know the local
community.
ANKE FREUDE RELOCATION SERVICES
QMesselstrae 23, MU Podbielskiallee, tel. +49 30 39
79 38 16, info@anke-freude.de, www.first-relocating.de.
ARRIVA RELOCATION QLeibnizstrae 60, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 32 77 43 11, info@arrivarelocation.de, www.arriva-relocation.de.
FIRST RELOCATING QKissinger Str. 67, MS
Hohenzollerndamm, tel. +49 30 826 14 51, info@firstrelocating.de, www.first-relocating.de/.
October - November 2014
59
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U Amrumer Str.
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Herzzzent
Herzze
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Wed
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dddinng
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es
Index
Aapka
22
Adlon Kempinski
30
Admiralspalast
11
Adria
15
Aigner
21
Alexa Centre
30
Alliiertenmuseum
39
Alpenstueck
21
Alte Nationalgalerie
28
Alternative Berlin Tours
56
Altes Museum
28
Altes Zollhaus
49
Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 57
Anna Blume
44
April
33
A-Trane
37
Aufsturz
23
August Fengler
44
Austria
50
Babylon Mitte
15
Barcomi's Deli
23
Bavarium
33
Bergmann Curry
50
Berlin, Berlin
41
Berlin City Tour
56
Berliner Dom
26
Berliner Residenz Konzerte 11
Berlinische Galerie
54
Berlin Locals
57
Berlin Plaza
41
Best Western President
41
Bikini Berlin
40
Black Box Cold War
27
Bleibtreu
41
Blue Man Group
11
Borchardt
21
Brandenburger Tor
25
Brewer's Berlin
57
Caf am Engelbecken
53
Caf am Neuen See
36
Caf im Literaturhaus
36
Cafe Kalwil
37
Central Kino
15
Chan
49
Cicciolina
51
CineStar IMAX & Original
15
City Circle Buses
56
City Segway Tours
57
C/O Berlin
39
Cupcake Berlin
47
Curry 36
50
Daimler Contemporary Berlin
28
Dal - The Exhibition at
Potsdamer Platz
28
Das Stue
40
Deutsche Oper Berlin
10, 14
Deutscher Dom
26
Deutsches Currywurst Museum
28
Deutsches Historisches
Museum
12, 28
Deutsches Technikmuseum 54
Diekmann
34
Die Schule
43
Digital Eatery
23
Dressler
35
Duke
35
Einhorn
35
El Dorado
36
Ellington Hotel
41
English Theatre Berlin
13
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp
23
Eventim
12
Facil
22
Fat Tire Bike Tours
57
Fernsehturm
30
Filmmuseum Potsdam
58
Filmpark Babelsberg
58
First Floor
34
Fischers Fritz
22
Fleischlust
43
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 45
Francucci's
35
Franzsischer Dom
26
Friedrichstadt-Palast
11
Fhrerbunker
27
Galander
54
Geburtstagsklub
44
Gedchtniskirche
39
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer
28
Gemldegalerie
29
Gendarmenmarkt
25
Glory Duck
47
Gorgonzola Club
51
Grand Hotel Esplanade
41
Green Door
37
Grenander Morning Glory 37
Gugelhof
43
Hackesche Hfe
15
Halle Tanzbhne
14
Hamburger Bahnhof
29
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
54
Hebbel am Ufer
14
Hefner
37
Hekticket
12
Herrlich
55
Hilton
30
Hinterm Horizont
12
Honigmond & Garden Hotels
31
Hoppetosse
51
Hotel de Rome
31
Hugos
34
InBerlin Tours
57
Insider Tours
57
InterContinental
40
Isherwood's Neighbourhood
Tour
57
Jolesch
50
Jolly
21
Joseph Roth Diele
21
Jdisches Museum Berlin 54
Kaffee Burger
24
Kamala
21
Kaufbar
47
Kaufhaus des Westens
40
Kempinski Bristol
40
Keule
46
Restauration 1900
43
Riehmers
50
Ritz-Carlton
31
Sachiko Sushi
36
Sage Restaurant
51
Salon Schmck
53
San Diego Steakhouse
47
Sankt Oberholz
23
Santiago
44
Sarod's
50
Savoy Berlin
40
Schall und Rauch
44
Schaubhne
14
Schloss Cecilienhof
58
Schloss Charlottenburg
38
Schloss Sanssouci
58
Schneewei
47
Schnitzelei
34
Schneberger Weltlaterne 33
Schwarzwaldstuben
21
Shakespeare & Sons
45
Slow Travel Berlin Tours
57
SO36
54
Soda Club
45
Sofitel Berlin Kurfrstendamm
40
Sophieneck
23
Spielbank Berlin
24
Spielbank Potsdam
58
Sputnik
15
Staatsoper im Schillertheater
11
Suksan
34
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
44
Swisstel Berlin
40
Sylter Hof
41
tausche Taschen
45
Tempelhofer Freiheit
55
The Harp
19, 38
Tiergarten
39
Tipi am Kanzleramt
12
Topographie des Terrors
54
Traube
22
Union Jack
38
Vicolo Bergmann
52
Viktoriapark
55
Waldorf Astoria
41
Week-End Club
24
Weinstein
44
Weltrestaurant Markthalle 53
Westin Grand
31
Wild at Heart
54
Wintergarten Varit
12
Wohnzimmer
44
Wrgeengel
54
Zander
43
Zillemarkt
33
Zille-Stube
21
Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Mietshaus
45
Zwiebelfisch
37
Zwlf Apostel
36
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