AIM January 2010 Project Supplement

Contents…
January 2010: Project Supplement ‘Special’ Issue.
5 Editor’s Note: Read Bea Broadwood’s introduction

& welcome to this month’s special edition of the
Artisans In Miniature FREE ‘downloadable’ magazine!

65 The Miniature Grapevine: Catch up on all the
latest news and announcements from the
international miniature world.

Free Projects…
Page 6 - Crochet Christmas Ornament:
By Frances Powell of Buttercup Miniatures.
8
Page 8 - Little Faces Project:
By Eileen Sedgwick.
Page 12 - Marotte Toy:
By Sandra Morris of Diminutive Dolls.
14
Page 14 - Holly & Poinsettia Christmas Door Wreath:
By Kathryn Gray of Templewood Miniatures.
Page 16 - Knitted Miniature Gloves: 19

By Helen Woods of Living In A Miniature.
Page 19 - Santa’s Mini Helpers:
By Julie Kendall of Jakdaws Attic.
Artisans In Miniature 2
24
Page 24 - Scandinavian Style Christmas
Cushion & Stool:
By Julia Jeffreys of Bearcabinminiatures.
Page 26 - Christmas Rug Project:
By AIM member Carol Smith.
30 Page 30 - A Toy Box In 1:24th Scale:

By Bea (Fiona) Broadwood of Petite Properties Ltd
Page 32 - A Christmas Mouse:
By Jain Squires of The Giddy Kipper.
Page 34 – Printable Table Linen:
By Sally Watson of SallyCat Miniatures.
32
Page 36 – Yule Log Project:
By Philippa Todd of Todds Toys & Mniatures.
Page 38 – Tassels: 39

By Helena Bleeker of Helena Petite Fashions.
Page 39 – Inukshuk (Stone Man):
By Lorrie of Lorrie’s Green World.
Page 41 – Christmas Box & Tissue Box Project:
By Maia Bisson of Maia’s Twinkle Miniatures.
Page 43 – Rudolf The Red Nosed Hobby Horse: 43

By Julie Campbell of Bella Belle Dolls
Page 47 – Christmas Tree Candy Canes:
By Stéphanie Kilgast of Petit Plat.
Page 51 – Christmas Colouring Book: 47

By Carol Lester of
The Dolls House Mall. 52
Page 52 – Santa Teapot Tutorial:
By Ernesto Baldini of
Punto Sur Miniaturas.
Page 55 – Easy Mince Pies:
By Vicky Guile of NJD Miniatures.
Page 57 – Baby Essentials ‐ Miniature Knitting:
By Jeannette Fishwick of
55
Alice’s Emporium Miniatures.
59
Page 59 – Christmas Baubles Tutorial:
By Mags Cassidy of
Mags‐nificent Miniatures.
Page 60 – Miniature AIM Calendar 2010:
By Terry & Anne Dateman of
Dateman Books.
61
Page 61 – Swaddled Baby Tutorial:
By Debie Lyons of
Piskies & Poppets.
Editor’s
Note...
Dear Reader
Happy new year and a very warm welcome to the January
issue of the AIM magazine!

The AIM magazine’s
As we decided to give our members some well earned time off
Editorial Team
(in 'first name' alphabetical order) over the festive season, we are very proud this month to

instead bring you our special project supplement, which is
Bea (Fiona) Broadwood
Editor, packed with 24 fabulous projects all written by AIM members.
Layout &Format Designer
office@petite‐properties.com
All of the projects and tutorials featured in this very special

Debie Lyons January supplement were taken from last month’s award
Gallery Coordinator winning AIM Advent calendar and we hope that they will be
huffledpuffed1048@aol.com the perfect antidote to combat those dark, cold winter nights!

Janine Crocker
janine@missameliasminiatures.com Alternatively, where ever you are in the world, we hope you will
all find something to enjoy, now that the sparkle of Christmas
Julie Campbell
Miniature Grapevine
has officially faded...
Coordinator
belljulie1@aol.com The AIM magazine will of course be back in February, with a

new look, brand new features and much, much more…
Mags Cassidy
info@mags‐nificent.co.uk and all still FREE of course!
What more could you want…?
Mary Williams
marysdolls@gmail.com

Bea
Vicky Guile: Editor (& General whip cracker)
Coordinator of

January 2010
In Season This Month
vicky@njdminiatures.com www.petite‐properties.com

Please note all AIM members contribute
to the magazine…
1/12th Scale
Tree Shaped Crochet Ornament
By AIM Member Frances Powell
Abbreviations:
ch‐chain; dc– double crochet; tr‐treble cro‐
chet; htr half treble crochet; st– stitch; sl‐
slip; ( ) repeat instructions between brack‐
ets.
American readers please note:
dc=single crochet, tr=double crochet;
htr=half double crochet

Materials required:
0.60 mm crochet hook (US size 14 steel), No
80 or 100 crochet cotton, if this is not avail‐
able use a good quality sewing thread. The
finer the cotton the smaller the finished
items.

To make ornament:

Foundation round: 24 ch, join with a sl st to form a loop.
Round 1: 12 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 10 ch, miss 1 ch
on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 8 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st
into next ch to join, 6 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 6 ch, sl
st into next ch to join, 6 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 8 ch,
miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to join, 10 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation
loop, sl st into next ch to join, 12 ch, miss 1 ch on foundation loop, sl st into next ch to
join and fasten off. Sew in all loose ends.


To stiffen ornament:
A. Traditional sugar solution method
1. Make a solution of two teaspoons boiling water to one level teaspoon sugar.
2. Stir until sugar is dissolved.
3. Place crochet in the solution until the crochet is completely wet through. Wring out
excess solution or sugar crystals will form on the finished work!
4. Pin the crochet out on a piece of corrugated cardboard or polystyrene covered in cling
film, using rustproof pins (as normal steel pins will rust and leave unsightly marks). Only
pin around the edges of the decoration, making sure all the details are pinned out to form
points. Pull the crochet into shape as you work around, making sure the tree decoration
stays flat.
5. Leave to dry in a warm place for 24 hours minimum.
B. The item can be starched with laundry starch
Work as above starting at 3
C. PVA Glue
A solution can be made from PVA glue and water, this will dry clear and slightly shiny.
Proceed as from point 3 on sugar starching.

To finish:
When the decorations are completely dry remove the pins carefully and thread a small
piece of cotton or transparent thread through one of the holes left by a pin on the points
of the tree. Hang on tree.

© Copyright F. H. Powell 2009
This pattern is for private use only and
may not be reproduced in any form for
commercial gain, including selling any
item knitted up from these patterns
www.buttercupminiatures.co.uk without written permission from
Buttercup Miniatures
By AIM Member Eileen Sedgwick
www.eileensedgwick.com
Marotte Toy
Special Christmas
Edition
By AIM Member, Sandra Morris
Marottes (or poupards) were small carved wooden dolls that
were made throughout Europe from the late 17th century.
Simple versions were carved in one piece and usually
represented a baby in swaddling clothes. Later dolls had
separately made limbs attached to a turned body and head, and
were often found in family, farm, village or Noah’s ark family
groups. Poupards with a musical movement triggered when the
doll was twirled were called marottes.
You will need:

 Small porcelain doll head (alternatively you can make one from polymer clay, or paint a face onto a
small wooden bead. It is best if you head has a short neck and it will also need a hole in the neck.
Ideally the head should be approximately 3‐4 mm diameter, roughly the size of a 1/24th scale baby.
Remember that the finished marotte is intended to be held by a 1/12th scale child!
 Wooden handle (approx 1” long) – you can use a section of turned stair spindle, wooden turning, or
cocktail stick
 4mm wide red and green silk ribbon
 7mm wide red silk ribbon
 Scrap of red silk fabric
 Red or green picot braid
 Red feather
 Red and green pinhead crystals.
 Bunka braid in the hair colour of your choice.
Instructions
1. Glue the end of the wooden handle into the neck of
the head. You may need to ‘sharpen’ the end so that it
fist neatly into the neck opening. Set aside till glue is
1 2
completely dry. ( Photo 1)
2. Unravel a length of hair‐coloured bunka so that if
forms a curly ‘frizz’. Apply a thin layer of glue over the
head where you want the hair to stick. The easiest way to apply the hair is to start at the nape of the neck
and follow a spiral pattern, around the head, finishing at the top of the crown. (Photo 2)
3. Cut 4 lengths of 4mm wide silk ribbon in both red and green. These should
be just long enough to fit from under the head to ¾ of the way down the han‐
dle. Cut one end at an angle.
4. Glue a tiny pinhead crystal onto the angled end of the silk ribbon, green on
red, red on green.
5. Glue these ribbon streamers around the neck of the head in two rows, al‐
ternating the colours. (Photo 3)
6. Cut a 3” length of 7mm wide red silk ribbon. Gather tightly and glue
around the neck, over the top raw edges of the ribbon streamers so that it
3
forms a ruff. (Photo 4)
7. Now make a simple hat using two small pieces of red silk. This can be any
shape you like so long as it has a front and a back. My marotte has a ‘crescent
moon’ shaped hat, but you can experiment with different styles and shapes.
Glue the front and back of the hat together around the outside edges, leaving
the bottom open so that it will fit onto the head. Glue picot braid or other
similar small scale trimming around the raw edges of the hat.
8. Glue the hat onto the head and allow to dry before proceeding. (Photo 5)
Decorate the hat with silk ribbon rosette bows, feathers etc. Finish off the hat
at the back with a larger silk ribbon rosette bow. (Photo 6)

6 5
7
These instructions are copyright © Sandra Morris
and may not be used for commercial purposes.

Sandra Morris – Diminutive Dolls/Tower House Dolls
www.diminutivedolls.co.uk and
www.towerhousedolls.co.uk
Holly & Poinsettia
Christmas Door
Wreath
by AIM member Kathryn Gray
of Templewood Miniatures

Wreaths have been placed on the main entrance doors
to houses since Tudor times during festive seasons,
they are a greeting to visitors and tell of the
celebrations inside the home.

Materials Required...

 Wire Cutters – to cut the wires to the required length
 Fine Tipped tweezers – used to place the flowers and foliage into the correct position
 PVA (white tacky) glue
 Stylus tool or round headed pin placed into a dowel
 Petal pad for shaping the leaves and petals
 Craft Knife

 Six petal flower punch
 Holly leaf punch
 Red and dark green 80 gram paper
 Tiny red holeless beads
 Gold wire – 3 inches long
 Yellow acrylic paint
 Piece of 24 gauge wire ‐ 5 inches long

A kit with pre cut laser poinsettia petals and holly leaves, wire, red beads and instructions can be purchased
from Templewood Miniatures – see details overleaf...
Method...

Twist the wire into a circle approximately 1 ½ inches in diameter and twist
the top together to make a loop – its easier to twist the wire around
something that is the size you want, as it ensures you make a neat circle.

Take approximately 40 holly leaves and place them on the petal pad, using
the back of the craft knife blade, indent a central vein, this gives movement
to the leaves.

Glue 15 of the holly leaves into 5 sets of three and when dry glue three tiny
red beads into the centre of each, leave to dry.

Take six poinsettia rounds of petals and place onto the petal pad, with a
stylus tool gently curve the petals upwards and then glue two rounds
together, leave to dry.
Using the yellow acrylic paint and a piece of wire paint yellow dots in the
middle of the poinsettia flower, leave the paint to dry.
Using the remaining holly leaves glue on to the wire round and leave
to dry.
Take the three poinsettia flowers and glue into place on the bottom
left hand side of the wreath.

Glue the five sets of holly leaves in place – in the example three sets
were placed to the right hand side of the poinsettias, one to the left
and the remaining one over the loop at the top.

It is always better to place flowers and leaves in odd numbers as it
makes the effect look more balanced.

Twist the piece of gold wire into a half circle shape and glue at the
top of the wreath with the ends hanging down loose.

Your Holly and Poinsettia Christmas Wreath is now complete, place
on the front door of your dollshouse and enjoy.

Details...

Templewood Miniatures
www.templewoodminiatures.co.uk
info@templewoodminiatures.co.uk
44 (0)1707 320208

A kit for the Christmas wreath can be purchased for £5.00, including
postage to anywhere in the world ‐ details from:
info@templewoodminiatures.co.uk – the kit has lasered holly leaves,
poinsettia petal rounds, wire, red beads and full instructions.

Men’s & Women’s
Miniature Gloves
By AIM Member Helen Woods
Skill Level: Advanced Knitting

Materials
Thread
Men’s Size: Mettler 60/2 Heirloom
Sewing Thread
Women’s Size: YLI 100 Pure Silk Thread
Needles
1 pair Size 24 (Eur .5mm USA 8/0)

Abbreviations

Inc: Increase by picking up the loop between stitches onto the left hand needle and then
knit into the back of this to make an additional stitch

tbl: Through back of loop (stitch)

turn: Knit indicated number of stitches and then turn the piece of work part way through the
row, and proceed to next pattern row

Wrist
Starting at wrist edge, cast on 26 stitches, using the thumb method of casting on

Row 1: (K1, PI), repeat to last two stitches, K2
Row 2: (K1, P1) repeat to last two stitches, K2
Rows 3 – 8: Repeat rows 1 and 2 three times
Row 9: K25, K1tbl
Row 10: K1, P24, K1tbl
Row 11: K12, Inc 1, K2, Inc 1, K11, K1tbl
Row 13: K12, Inc 1, K4, Inc 1, K11, K1tbl
Row 15: K17, K1tbl, turn

Thumb
Row 1: K1, P4, K1tbl, turn
Row 6: K5, K1tb, turn
Cut thread, leaving about 6” tail. Thread this through the six thumb
stitches, draw up and fasten off securely. Rejoin thread to last 12 stitches
on left hand needle and proceed as follows:
Row 16: K11, K1tbl
Row 18: K23, K1tbl

Index Finger

Cut thread, leaving about 6” tail. Thread this through the six finger stitches,
draw up and fasten off securely. Rejoin thread to last 9 stitches on left hand
needle and proceed as follows

Middle Finger

Row 9: K5, K1tbl

Ring Finger


Little Finger

Cut thread, leaving about 6” tail. Thread this through the six finger
stitches, draw up and fasten off securely.

Finishing Off

Using a tiny ladder stitch, sew up the finger and thumb seams, including to the wrist on the
little finger edge. I found that a length of fine styrene tubing was useful for keeping the
fingers patent whilst sewing the seams.

Make a second glove to match.

Enjoy...
© Helen Woods 2007
Living in a Miniature World

Would you like to get your

‘hands’ on a pair of beautiful
miniature gloves knitted by
AIM member Helen Woods?
If so, then don’t miss next

month’s issue of the AIM
magazine, which will feature
a fabulous ‘free’ competition
for you to enter...
Santa's Mini helpers
By AIM member Julie Kendall
of Jakdaws Attic

You will need...

Wire
Florist tape
coloured polymer clay
liquid clay
ruler
blade
cocktail stick
nail clippers or wire
cutters
needles
Straight edged oven
proof item/upturned
loaf tin (not suitable for food use after)
Sturdy baking sheet to stand tin on.
1) Lower body

First cut your wire and wrap with tape.
Roll clay to size and then flatten as seen in picture.
Lay wire half way onto disc and shape clay around
wire until it resembles a cotton bud.
Flatten bottom slightly allowing it to sit onto your
surface.
For the legs roll out a sausage shape as shown in
photo, round off each end and then cut in half.
About 1/2 cm from the start of the rounded end,
turn clay to form a foot. Gently shape each foot to a
point.
Bend each leg in the middle where a knee would be and lightly
flatten the top end as shown in the photo.
Attach one leg either side of the "cotton‐bud" to create the lower half of
your elf. Carefully sit your elf onto your loaf tin so that the back of the
knee connects with the edge of the tin. Gently push onto points of toes to
create a slight curl and ensure the back of the lower legs are as flush to
the tin as possible.

Check your wire is as straight as possible and then bake on an up turned
loaf tin following manufactures instructions, remove from oven when
done and leave to cool.
2) Upper body
Once the lower half has cooled and
you have shaped all the clay parts
shown in the photo, take a cocktail
stick and apply a small amount of
liquid clay onto the area above the
baked legs.

Slide the green ball of clay over the wire and shape as shown. Take a needle and draw an even line where
his waist line would be.

Starting centre front, add the oblong shape (bottom of jacket) using the line you drew as a guide. Lightly
pressing down around the join as you take the clay around his waist. When you reach centre front again,
trim and shape any excess clay with your blade. Smooth the
top edge of the join around the waist of the body using the side
of your needle.

Starting centre front again, place the thin line of dark clay on his
waist line, gently pressing as you go. When you reach where you
started, trim excess and press the small matching ball of clay over
the join. Press the rounded end of your needle into the centre of the
disc to create a buckle.

3) Hands and Sleeves

Take the diamond shaped clay and cut in half. Smooth and very
slightly flatten the cut edges. Bend and shape each half to form the
elf's arms/sleeves.

Press the smaller ends of the sleeves either side of the wire to
represent the shoulders.

Next take the smaller flesh coloured balls of clay and shape into small
teardrops. Place onto front of the body where the sleeves would end
making it so that only the smaller half only of the teardrop disappears up
under the sleeve.

Gently flatten down the sleeve and with a needle, create crease lines
into the sleeve where a natural bend in the arm would occur.

4) Head and collar

Use flesh coloured clay for the elf's head and roll out a ball to match
the one shown in the photo. carefully pierce a hole though the centre
using a needle. Next create two small cone shapes for the ears and
one small ball for the nose. For his collar you will need to make a flat disc
and then cut and remove a quarter segment.

Drape the collar around the wire and over his shoulders. When happy
with the shape, press lightly into place using your finger. When you have
done this, slide the head over the wire and press lightly
onto the shoulders. Reshape if needed

Slightly flatten out the cones you rolled for the ears and place one either
side of the head. Using the side of you needle, blend and smooth the
bottom of the ears onto the head. Take the small ball of flesh you made
for the nose, position and once more using your needle, blend the top of
the nose so that it will hold.

Place the two tiny dark dots of clay onto his face to represent his eyes
and lightly press in place.
With the point of a needle draw a mouth into the clay.
5) Hat and Hair

Take the clay you chose for the hair and roll out plenty of
a strands, how thick or thin is up to you. With the needle
place the strands on his head working your way around the
head,ears and up to the wire.

When you have done this and are happy with the result, sit
your elf back onto the upturned tin and pop him back into
the oven, again follow manufactures instructions, remove
from oven when time and leave to cool.

Roll a ball of clay as shown in picture and then shape into a
long cone. Using the same colour, roll out a strand of
clay roughly about 5cm long.
Take the nail clippers and cut the wire as close to the head as
possible.
Smear a small amount of little liquid clay on the top of the
head and push the bottom of the cone onto the head. Shape
the clay to fit around the top of the head and when happy
with the shape, place the 5cm strand around the raw edge to
create the hats brim. If you start and finish the brim behind
one of the ears it makes for a neater finish. How you finish
and decorate the hat is up to you but i like to finish it by
rolling the end into a small curl.
Once more pop back onto your tin or chosen surface and
place into the oven for his final bake. Again make sure to
follow your clays instructions for temperature and times.
Remove from oven and leave to cool.

6) Finishing touches
Al tough you could leave your elf the way he is, its always fun
to add some little touches to your character.
With a lick of Acrylic paint you could create some colourful
dots or wonderful stripey leggings. Buckles can be given a
fine touch of bronze or silver and cheeks lightly blushed to
give a rosy glow. A surprised angle to the eyebrows or a
cluster of painted freckles running across the nose can all
give your little fellow that personal touch and give him or her
a little life of its own..
A tiny bit of fine glitter here and there could also add a little
bit of magic to boots or a hat.
You could also create a larger version and add lots of
wonderful accessories and sit him on a shelf at Christmas,
or go smaller and have him peeping out from somewhere
in a doll house or box room.
If I use Acrylic paints I tend to use a Matt varnish for face and
clothe details and a little gloss varnish on things such as eyes
and boots, but again its very much up to you.

Hope you have enjoyed this tutorial...
Julie Kendall
kendall678@btinternet.com www.freewebs.com/jakdaws/
Artisans In Miniature 22 Copyright Julie Kendall 2009

Artisans In Miniature
“An association of professional artisans,
dedicated to promoting a high standard
of excellence in original handcrafted scale miniatures…”
www.artisansinminiature.com
NEW

artisansinminiature.blogspot.com
Are YOU a professional miniature artisan??
Do you sell quality handmade miniatures to the public??
Do you want to showcase your work and talents on a global platform??
Do you want to be part of a supportive professional association??
AND do you want it all for FREE???
If you answered 'YES' to EVERY question…
Then look no further, AIM is the professional miniaturists association for YOU!!

AIM is completely FREE to join and completely FREE to be part of.

So...if you are a professional miniature artisan and you would like to find out
more about joining the AIM Association,
please email AIM’s Membership Secretary: Mary for more information:
marysdolls@gmail.com

Or alternatively visit our website…
Scandinavian Style Christmas Cushion and Stool
By AIM Member, Julia Jeffreys of Bearcabinminiatures
Add some Christmas fun to your Dolls House with this easy to stitch, cross‐stitch cushion and
stool.
Materials
18tpi (threads per inch) cotton canvas
Sewing needles Size 24 or 26
A small needlework frame
Toy filler or wadding (a cotton wool ball is a good
substitute)
White felt
A commercially made stool
Craft glue
Embroidery thread: I use DMC stranded cotton
Green DMC colour 904
Red DMC 666
Light blue DMC 334
Mid blue DMC 336
Picot braid (optional)
Before you begin

Cut a square of canvas large enough to fit your frame. TIP If you are not using a frame,
apply masking tape around the edges of the canvas to prevent fraying and give you a
firmer edge whilst you are sewing. Use 2 strands of thread, cut at 50cm lengths for your
stitches.
The Pattern
Stitching the cushion and stool cover
Using the coloured graphs, begin stitching your design either from one edge or from the middle of the
pattern, depending on where you feel comfortable. I always stitch from the bottom left hand corner and
work one row at a time, stitching a half cross stitch and then doubling back at the end of the row to
complete the full cross stitch. I find this is an easier way to follow the pattern and gives a neater finished.
Please note, the Ivy on the cushion and the centre stars are stitched using a simple running stitch.
Making up the cushion and

stool
When you have finished stitching
your patterns, remove the canvas
from your frame and cut carefully
around each piece leaving an edge
of canvas of 4 squares to turn over
as a hem.
Cut a square of felt the same size as
the cushion and using the light blue
thread, stitch the cushion front and
felt together, leaving one end open.
Insert your stuffing material into
the cushion and stitch up the open
end.
Carefully remove the cushion pad

and fabric cover from the stool.
Place the stool’s cushion pad on your canvas, turn over your hem and glue. Then add glue to the stool top
and put the cushion pad in place. I find it helps at this point to place a book on the top of the stool to hold
the cushion in place whilst the glue dries. Once dry, you can add a little picot braid around the edge of the
cushion pad to neaten your edges if you want.
Tip
If you want to make a larger cushion, just add
another edging row of the light blue cross
stitches.
Cushion and stool by Julia Jeffreys
of Bearcabinminiatures
http://Bearcabinminiatures.etsy.com

Copyright design for personal use only,
not for resale please.
Text & Photographs © Bearcabinminiatures
CHRISTMAS
RUG PROJECT
By AIM Member Carol Smith
ITEMS NEEDED:
 A piece of embroidery canvas with
mesh size wide enough to take double
knitting wool
 Tacky glue
 A darning needle or tapestry needle
 Double knitting wool in red,green and
gold
 Flax or similar cut to same size as your canvas.
METHOD:
1 ‐ Cut the desired size for your rug .I cut a three inch x two and half inch piece.
2 ‐ Place a little tacky glue round the very edges with a cocktail stick and leave to dry
3 ‐ Draw a Christmas tree in the centre of the canvas. I folded it in half to find the centre.
4 ‐ Thread a longish piece of red wool and starting at the bottom left corner of the canvas, draw it
through the 1st square leaving about two inches not pulled through.
5 ‐ You can either thread through the square from the bottom, snipping the spare wool shorter
near the end of the project or thread from the top to the underneath.
6 ‐ The underneath of the canvas will have the stitches pulled close to the canvas .As you put the
wool into the next square leave a loop at the top. Weave in and out of each square up and down
the rows until you reach the drawing.
I worked round the tree and then used the green to fill in the tree using the same method of
leaving loops.
7 ‐ Each time you use up the length of wool which you have threaded, end with the needle going
from underneath to the top, leaving a length of wool.
8 ‐ When you have filled in the area round the tree, carefully snip round the edges and then
continue cutting off the tops of the loops. Gradually trim the wool down.
9 ‐ Thread a length of green wool and starting from the top start filling in the squares as before.
You will probably find it easier to follow the tree shape by turning the canvas over and following
the shape from the back.
10 ‐ Carefully trim.
11 ‐ Thread some gold wool and make one loop for each bauble pulling the wool from the bottom
to the top leaving a length of wool as you did each time you finished a length of wool. Do same
with some red wool then trim.
12 ‐ Place a thin layer of tacky glue on the flax.
13 ‐ Turn your rug over and place the side of the flax which has the glue onto the rug.

You could work up to the tree and fill the tree in rather than filling all the red in 1st.
You can use this method for a different picture.
If you do not feel confident to draw you could trace a picture or use a rubber stamp.

Text & Photographs Copyright Carol Smith http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=6590817
CLICK…on Artisans In Miniature
How did you find the Online Magazine??
Did you follow a link?
Did a miniature friend tell you about it?

...and do you already know about the Artisans In Miniature Website,
and the talented members who have all helped create this Online magazine.?

If not, copy, paste and CLICK now – www.artisansinminiatures.com and come and
meet us all. Founded in 2007 by Bea (Fiona) Broadwood of Petite Properties, the site
has been created in order to showcase the fantastic work of the individual
professional international artisan members who create beautiful and original scale
miniatures for sale to the public. Together they form the Artisans In Miniature
association.

Since its launch the AIM association has rapidly grown and now boasts membership of
well over 200, including some of the most talented artisans within the miniature
world!

On the website you will find further information about them and their work;
however, please note new pages are constantly being added and there are many
members who are not yet included on the site...

If you are a professional artisan who is interested in joining the association, you will
find all the information there.....
If you are wondering what Fairs may be on in your area – that information is there
too…

We have lots of links…to Fairs and Events Organizers…Magazines…Online Miniature
clubs….Historical reference sites…..Workshops…and more… it’s all there!

If you’d like to contact us, copy, paste and CLICK...
we’d love to hear from you!
Artisans In Miniature ?
Materials…
a 1:24th scale toy box...  2mm thick mount card
 Medium card
By AIM Member, Bea (Fiona) Broadwood  Medium blue acrylic paint.
 x1 cream 1mm seed bead
 Tacky glue
 Selection of blue and green
permanent felt tip pens
 White gel pen
Step 1...
Draw out the shapes shown below in
fig.1 onto 2mm thick mount board.
Label each piece in pencil with the
corresponding letter (as shown below)
Carefully cut out each shape using a
craft knife and metal ruler.
Score along line A on part C.
A
B
Step 2...
Using tacky glue, apply glue along the long edges of the 2
B
sides; parts B and stick onto the front of the toy box; part A,
see picture 2. Clean away excess glue with a cotton bud
throughout the construction stages. .2.
Step 3…
Next glue the back; part C to the 2 sides; parts B to form
the back of the toy box, ensuring the scored line A is on
the exterior of the box. See picture 3. Allow to dry.
Step 4…
Using tacky glue, glue the base; part D onto the bottom of
the toy box, ensuring that the back of the base is flush
with the back of the toy box, see picture 4.
Step 5 …
Draw out panels; parts; E and F as shown in fig.2 onto
medium card and cut out. Glue into position onto the lid
and front of the toy box as shown in pictures 3 and 4.
Next cut a thin strip of medium card approximately ⅛in
wide x 2¼in long; part G and glue it onto the sides and
front edge of the lid. See pictures 3 and 4. Leave to dry.
Step 6 ...
Paint the toy box with 2 coats of medium blue paint, see
picture 6. When dry, distress using the dry brush
technique and a little ‘mucky paint’.
Step 7... .3. G
Using a selection of permanent felt tip pens in an assortment of
blue and green colours and a white gel pen; apply tiny areas of
clustered dots to create the illusion of floral painted panels to B
C
the lid and front.
see picture 7. .6.
B E
.7.
D
.4.
F
G
This project was taken from
Bea’s 3rd project book:
COUNTRY BEDROOMS
B
www.petite‐properties.com C

Copyright LUMO publishing 2008
A Christmas Mouse
in 1/12th scale, from polymer clay
By AIM Member Jain Squires

Things you need:
Polymer clay . You will need less than 1 small block.
Black glass beads
Tin foil
Masking tape
Scrap of fabric
Needle or pin
Wooden sculpting tool
Domestic oven
Tile
Acrylic or genesis heat set paints

1. Work the polymer clay until soft and pliable. The mouse can be whatever size you like.
2. Make an oval shape from crushed foil. Roll the foil shape on a flat surface to get it tight and cover with
masking tape. The whole shape needs covering with the conditioned clay, tapering head end and pinching
in the bottom slightly at the sides.
3. Next make a teardrop shape from the clay. This will be the head.
4. Blend the clay from the head and body together using the wooden tool.
5. Indent under the chin with tool and mark out eyes( half way between back of head and nose) and the
ears ( halfway between the eyes and back of head) add small piece of clay to form the mouth and add a
nose.
6. Add seed beads for eyes and small flat circles for cheeks, blend clay.
7. Make 2 circles and flatten them and shape to ear shape as shown in photo.
8. Next roll a long thin log of clay. Cut into four pieces and shape and mark fingers and toes. Attach to
mouse as pictured.
9. Take 2 small flattened circles and put them on the sides of the mouse at the bottom for haunches, blend
clay.
10. This step is quite time consuming, but worth taking time over. The fur needs to be marked on with a
fine needle or pin, light, fine, close strokes give a realistic look on the finished piece.
Last step is to add a long thin tail, sitting the mouse onto it.
Now he is ready for the oven. To be baked per manufactures instructions for the clay
you are using.
After baking he needs to be painted mouse colour, mixing paints to suit. Around the
eyes, nose and on chest a lighter colour looks more realistic. I made a tiny Christmas
hat and scarf to keep him warm!!!
The Giddy Kipper
www.giddykipperdolls.com
Text & Photographs © Jain Squires Artisans In Miniature 33
Printable Christmas
Table Linen
(1:12th Scale)
By AIM Member Sally Watson
Table mats
Print on gloss or silk
photo paper and cut
to size.
SallyCat Miniatures
sallycatminiatures.com
Text & Images © Sally Watson
Print on cotton lawn or similar printable fabric. Cut to size leaving
a tiny margin of white. Roll the napkins and insert through jump
rings or slices cut from a drinking straw. Add some bling by rolling
the straw in glitter before cutting.
How to make a “Yule log”
chocolate cake,
in 1/12th scale, from polymer clay.

By AIM Member & IGMA Artisan
Philippa Todd.

Roll a ¾ inch (19 mm) diameter ball of dark brown polymer clay to the depth of 1/8th inch. Roll a ½ inch
(13mm) diameter ball of light brown to depth of 1/32nd inch. Place the dark brown clay on top of the light
brown, prick out any air bubbles between the layers of clay, and cut a 1¼ inch (32mm) square. Discard the
excess clay.

Cut a triangle of clay away from one side of the square, leaving an angle along one edge of
the dark brown clay ‐ see diagram

Turn the clay over so the light brown clay is now on top. Roll the clay up on itself starting from the angled
section and finish with the opposite straight edge resting on the tile. Reduce the diameter of the cylinder
to 5/16th inch, by stretching the cylinder not by rolling it; you want to retain the straight edge. Cut away
and discard both distorted ends. Cut a 5/16th inch (8mm) segment from the cylinder. Make a diagonal cut
across the segment so one side is now 3/16th inch long and the other 5/16th inch long and place the
angled piece against the side of the cake near one end.

Cut a 3/16th inch (5mm) slice from the other end of the cylinder and place it flat on the tile. Use the end of
a cocktail stick (toothpick) to very gently depress the light brown clay, so you leave a shallow indention
along the line of the light brown clay. Do this to the slice of “cake” and at one end of the cylinder. Use a
pin to texture the two flat surfaces of the dark brown clay (the end of the cake and the top of the slice).
Hold the pin at a shallow angle to the clay and use the tip to texture the surface, do not gouge holes into
the clay; just gently roughen the surface so it looks like the cut surface of a cake. Avoid distorting the light
brown clay.

Make the chocolate cream filling by mixing a 1/8th inch (3mm) diameter ball of light brown clay with a
small amount of liquid polymer clay to the consistency of double (thick) cream. Place a line of the
“chocolate cream” in the spiral depression in the light brown clay on both the cut end of the cake and on
the slice.
Bake the cake and slice for the time and at the temperature recommended for your chosen brand of clay.
Allow the baked cake to cool before proceeding to the next stage.

Bake a 5/8th inch (16mm) diameter ball of dark brown clay and once cool grate it though a fine kitchen
grater, the one used for nutmeg is ideal (do not then use the grater for food use). Mix the resulting powder
with some liquid polymer clay, which has been coloured with a tiny amount of dark brown oil paint, to the
consistency of “butter icing”. Coat all the surfaces of the cake, bar the two textured ones, with the “butter
icing”.

Texture the “butter icing” to resemble bark.

Roll out a very thin layer of dark green clay and cut three holly leaf shapes (cutters are available from Diane
Harfield – www.dianeharfieldminiatures.co.uk). Use a pin to mark the lines of veins in the clay, and gently
curve the leaves to a more natural shape. Position the holly leaves on the cake and add some tiny red balls
of clay for the berries.

Bake the cake for the time and at the temperature recommended for your chosen brand of clay.
If you wish to have a dusting of icing sugar on your cake, carefully sponge a thin coating of white acrylic
paint on the top.
Todds Toys & Mniatures
www.toddtoysandminiatures.com
Text & Photograph © Philippa Todd
Tassels

©Helena Bleeker 2009
This pattern is for private use
only and
both the pattern and finished
tassels are
not to be used for any com‐
mercial gain.

Materials used
Venne colcoton Creafil 60/2
Red /Gold or
Venne Multi‐colour of your
choice.
Needles size UK 20. (0.9 mm)

Abbreviations
K‐knit. P‐purl. Ktbl‐ knit into the back of the stitch. R/S –right side of work.
W/S‐ wrong side of work. Sts‐stitches.

TheTassels can be used to decorate the Miniature XmasTree,
or instead of bows on presents or as curtains tiebacks.

Tassel
Cast on 25sts
Row 1‐2 knit 2 rows
Row 3 R/S k1tbl (p2, k1tbl,) rep, to end
Row 4 P1 (k1tbl, k1, p1,) rep, to end
Row 5‐14 rep, rows 3‐4 five times, or to your required length.
Row 15 k1tbl, (sl next st off needle and let it drop ½ way, p1, k1tbl) rep, to end (17)
Row 16 p1 (k1tbl, p1) rep, to end
Row 17 k1tbl (p1, k1tbl)
Row 18‐30 rep, rows 16‐17 five times
Cut thread, leave a long end, with threaded sewing needle, draw up the sts, pull tight and
fasten securely, close seam. Insert a small bead or stuff with cotton wool.
Wrap thread around the base of the bead, make small loop on top.

Project by ©Helena Bleeker for the AIM Advent Calendar

Helena Petite Fashions
22 Civray Ave.
Downham Market
Norfolk PE38 9NU
Web: www.helena‐petitefashions.co.uk
Email: helena.bleeker@btinternet.com
For the Inuit people of the far
north, this i n t r i g u i n g
configuration of stones ‐ layered
in the shape of a man or a
woman ‐ once had many
important functions.

Inukshuks served as scarecrows

to stampede caribou herds
toward hunters ‐ or as signposts
pointing to good hunting and
fishing, danger or caches of
food. These messages in stone
once saved lives by marking the
way to shelter and nourishment
in a harsh land.

I talked to an old Inuit a few years
ago and he said that they were
just a way of saying, "I was here"
‐ kind of like our graffiti on rocks
alongside our highways.
INUKSHUK (STONE MAN) Therefore, they can have several

meanings.
By AIM Member Lorrie Of Lorrie’s Green World Nevertheless, they are a great way
to get a bit of your own area
into your scenes. They make an eye‐catching addition to your mini patio or garden.
The biggest ones are around 6 feet high, but most were usually around 3 – 5 feet – those rocks are heavy to lift
and the Inuit aren’t a very big people LOL. So, make them any size that will be appropriate for your scene. I’m
giving instructions for one made from stone, but they could also be made from Fimo, Paperclay, air‐dry clay,
papier Mache or even wood if you cut it to look like rock.
The plans call for a bit different sizes of rocks, so do what is best for you. There is no wrong or right way.

MATERIALS:
One piece of wood to set the statue on (I used ¼” plywood)
4 pieces of rock for the legs
1 larger rock for the body
1 flat, long piece for the arms
1 round piece for the head
Hammer
Safety glasses
2‐part epoxy glue
Soap, water, scrub brush (an old toothbrush works great)
Sand or fine kitty litter, dried moss or cotton balls (to glue to the base)
PLANS:

1. Cut your wood as big as you will need to stand your stone man on. If you make the edges and shape
irregular, it looks much better.

2. Wearing your safety glasses, break up any of your rocks to get them the right size if they are too big. Do
this inside a clear plastic garbage bag so you don’t get stone chips flying all over.

3. Scrub all the rocks you will be using with soap and water. An old toothbrush makes a good scrub
brush. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

4. Stack all your pieces before gluing to make sure they fit together and that the arrangement looks good.

5. When you are satisfied with the arrangement, disassemble it and start gluing the pieces together,
starting at the bottom, the legs. 2‐part epoxy is the best glue to use, but white glue will work. I have used
Weldbond and had good results. Make sure to use enough glue to hold things together.
Wipe off any excess. Wait for one section to partially dry before going on to the next. If you are using
epoxy, only mix a bit at a time – no sense wasting glue LOL.

6. Depending on what season or setting you want your little stone man to be in, use either sand or fine
kitty litter to make it look like dirt. You can also use a bit of dried moss or something like it – the Arctic is
kind of a greeny‐brown in summer. If you want to make it look like winter, glue a bit of
cotton batting to the base to look like snow.

7. Set your little man in your scene – best to glue him down, as it will be fairly heavy.

8. These are great souvenirs to send you mini buddies, as they will be a small bit of the area in which you
live.
Lorries Green World
Text & Photograph © Lorries Green World
www.minilorrie.2itb.com
Thompson, Manitoba, Canada
Email ‐ minilorrie@yahoo.ca
Instructions
for Christmas
box & tissue
boxes…

By AIM Member
Maia Bisson

Materials:
Scissors
Glue
Ruler
X‐Acto knife
Tissue for tissue boxes.

1… Print the boxes on the paper of your choice.

2… Score the boxes where they will be folded using the colored tabs as guides, (I like to use
a metal ruler and the wrong side of an X‐Acto knife with light pressure to do this).

3… Cut the oval openings of your tissue boxes with an X‐Acto knife.

4… Cut out the boxes. Apply glue to the tabs on the colored side and glue to the inner blank
part of the box. Do this one tab at a time, you can press with tweezers or something flat to
make sure you have a square finish. The bottom part of the tissue boxes is the last piece to
be glued.

5… Add the finishing touches

Tissue boxes: insert your tissues into the oval openings. The boxes are now ready to decorate
and add detail to your holiday mini scene!

Christmas box: There are many options for your box; add some tissue paper and leave half
open, or add a product to be wrapped, close it and put it under the Christmas tree or wrap a
mini for someone special and give it as a present!

I wish you a happy Holiday season

and many hours of miniature fun! Maia

www.maiastwinkleminiatures.com
Text & Photograph © Maia Bisson
RUDOLPH THE
RED NOSED
HOBBY HORSE...
By AIM Member, Julie Campbell
You will need :
 Scraps of felt in light brown, beige and white
 2 cocktail sticks
 Wood stain or varnish or brown acrylic paint
 Brown thread
 Red thread
 Black seed beads
 Gold seed beads
 Red thin ribbon or string
 Red thin trim
 2 small buttons ( optional)
 Pva glue
 Superglue ( optional)
 Small amount of stuffing

First snip the point off one end of your
cocktail sticks and sand to smooth. Cut a
3cm strip from the other stick and
smooth both ends. Now stain, varnish or
paint your cocktail sticks and leave to dry.

Carefully glue a button on either side of
the cocktail stick’s rounded end. I used
superglue for this as it gives a fast bond
but PVA glue will do the job just as well.

Draw a shapes as
shown (above) for the
reindeers head, ears
and antlers then cut
out of white paper.
These will be your
templates.

Cut two of each piece.

Then cut out smaller pieces of white felt and glue to each ear.

Cut two eye shaped pieces and glue to each head
piece making sure you have a left and right side
with evenly placed eyes.

Sew a black bead onto each eye.

Now put the head pieces together and using the
brown thread over sew all the way round leaving
the bottom end open.

Stuff the head fairly firmly and put PVA glue over
the end of your cocktail stick

Push the stick up into the reindeers head and carefully over sew the bottom edges to‐
gether to give a neat snug join.

Sew an antler on either side of the head . You can
use glue if you prefer.

Now sew an ear either side of the head in front of the antlers. Again you can glue if pre‐
ferred
Use a large darning needle to poke a hole through the reindeers neck behind the cocktail
stick

Carefully push the small length
of cocktail stick through the hole
to form a handle bar.

Now for Rudolph's red nose !
Using your needle and red
thread over sew a nose onto the
front of the face. Go over your
stitches as many times as you
need to create a nice rounded
red nose. You could sew on a red
bead if preferred .

Glue your red trimming round
the back of Rudolph's head just
Glue another piece of trim around his muzzle .

Cut a piece of red string or ribbon and glue or sew
to the muzzle where the braid joins. Sew on a gold
bead over the top to decorate on each side.

You now have your own Rudolph the red nosed
hobby horse !
Julie Campbell
www.bellabelledolls.co.uk
Text & Photograph © Julie Campbell
Christmas Tree
Candy Canes...
By AIM Member,
Stéphanie Kilgast

Hi everyone!
Today I'm going to show you how
to make simple Christmas tree
candy canes.
Caning is a very useful and fun technique and the possibilities are just endless!
So I hope that this cane will inspire you to make different ones :)
xx
Stéphanie

Materials:
‐ fimo soft: translucent 14, brown 75, blue 37, yellow 16, red 2, carmine 29
‐ fimo classic: white 0
‐ round toothpick, pin, wood skewer, razor blade

Step 1
Mix following:
White Mix: ½ white 0 + ½ translucent 14
Green: 7/9 blue 37 + 1/9 yellow 16 + 1/9
translucent 14
Red: ½ red 2 + ½ translucent 14
Hot Pink: 1/3 carmine 29 + 1/3 white 0 + 1/3
translucent 14
Brown: ½ brown 75 + ½ translucent 14
Note that you will only need half of the green
pictured (I mixed too much green :D)

Step 2
Using the green mix (1/2 of what is pictured in step 1) form a simple triangle.

Step 3
Take your wood skewer and make holes in the green tree.

Step 4
Roll the white and the hot pink into snakes of approx. 5 mm (0,2) The snakes should be thin enough to fit
into the tree holes.
Step 5
Put the colored snakes into the tree
holes.

Step 6
Take the brown clay and form the
trunk.

Step 7
Place the trunk under the tree

Step 8
Put the white mix around the tree
making sure it forms a circle. If you
don’t have enough white, just mix new
one using the same mixture.
Step 9
Roll the red and the hot pink into snakes of
approx. 5 mm (0,2)

Step 10
Cut the snakes in pieces that have the same
height than your cane. Place the pieces next to
each other.

Step 11
Put the little snake pieces around your cane.
Be careful not to overlap them nor to leave
empty space.

Step 12
Now start to squeeze
the cane from every
side until you have a
cane of approx 1,5 ‐ 2
cm (0,6 – 0,8 inch.)

Step 13
You may start to roll the cane to make it
thinner.

Step 14
When the cane is too big for your
working place/tile just cut it in two and
continue rolling. Check if it’s good
looking :)

Step 15
Roll it down to approx 0,4 – 0,5 cm in
diameter (0,2 inch.)
Bake according to manufacturer’s
recommendation. I would suggest to
check the exact temperature of your
oven.

Step 16
Et voilà!
Cute little Christmas tree candy that you
may use as it or use as decorations on
cakes, gingerbread houses or cookies !
Stephanie
www.petitplat.fr
Text & Photograph © Stephanie Kilgast

A Christmas Colouring Book

By AIM Member, Carol Lester
Artisans in Miniature
Christmas Colouring Book
Cut out Cover and fold down the centre

Cut out colouring pages in one long strip
Concertina pages on the dotted lines (Santa & Sleigh should be back to
back)
Glue pages together
Stick blank pages to covers
HAPPY CHRISTMAS
www.thedollshousemall.com
Copyright © Carol Lester
SANTA
TEAPOT
TUTORIAL...
By AIM Member,
Ernesto Baldini

You will need:
 Polymer clay: black, red, white, beige
(or the color you use for skin) and a tiny
yellow mixed with white (for the beard
and hair)
 Tile to work on
 Tools: sharp pointed, blunt pointed and knife

Let’s start by conditioning our clay, that’ll make
it easier for us during the work stages…
Roll two balls of black clay

about 0.5 cm diameter,
shape them into a teardrop
and flatten.
They will be our Santa’s
boots. Place them side by
side as shown.

Roll a ball of red clay about
1 cm diameter.
Slightly shape it as an egg
and place it on top of the
boots.

Place a ball of skin color clay
as head.

Roll a long thin snake of
white clay (about 2 mm
wide)

Place it as the fur rim of Santa’s coat. Start at the
back of the head, go around one side to the front, go
down, go back and round the body to the front
again, then up and round the other side of the head
(easier do it than say it)
Use your blunt pointed tool to texture the fur rim.
For the arms (they’ll be the handle and sprout of the teapot), roll two logs about 7 mm long
and 3 mm wide.
Place them on the sides of the body, the one resembling the sprout upwards and the one
resembling the handle downwards. Smooth the seems. Add two balls of skin color clay as
hands, place a fur rim to each sleeve and texture it.
To define the face factions, add a little ball as nose, and
two balls for the ears (all three in skin color). Use your
blunt pointed tool to make an indentation in the ears.
Add two tiny black balls for the eyes.
With your yellow and white mix (kind of cream color),
make three teardrops for the beard and moustaches.
In the picture you can see them as you will place them on
the face.
Once in position, texture them with your knife tool. You
can add hair too if you like it (I did).

Santa’s hat will be the cap. It’s just a cone shape, with the
textured rim all way round and a textured ball at the
point. Curve it a little.

We’re almost done, just need to make our teapot “work”.
To do so, use your sharp pointed tool to open a hole in
the sprout. You don’t need to go too deep.

Bake according clay manufacturer’s directions, and your
teapot is finished. You can give it a glossy finish if you like
so.
Hope you enjoyed it!!!!!
Ernesto
www.puntosurminiaturas.jimdo.com
Text & Photographs © Ernesto Baldini
Food Tutorial...
Easy Mince Pies…
By AIM Member,
Vicky Guile

You will need...

 Polymer clay in white, brown, yellow
and translucent
 Liquid polymer clay
 Soft artist’s pastels in raw sienna, gold
ochre, burnt umber and white
 Flat matt acrylic varnish (or a mixture
of a small amount of 75% water + 20%
tacky glue)
 Three paintbrushes, one for dry
brushing with pastels, one for
varnishing and one larger and very
soft brush for finishing with icing sugar
 Cocktail sticks/toothpicks
 A small ball stylus tool
 Craft knife
 Miniature muffin/cupcake
baking tray
 Ceramic tile for working
and baking on
 Scraps of paper or card for
mixing pastels on
 Hairspray
Method…
Step 1. Mix a small amount of
white clay with a touch of brown
and yellow clay to make a light pas‐
try colour until the colour is
uniform. Then add and mix in an
equal amount of translucent clay.
Continue to mix and condition until
the clay is off a uniform colour. Roll
into a log approximately 5mm in
diameter and cut into slices
approximately 2.5mm thick (or
thicker or thinner depending on the size and depth of your baking tray). Roll each slice
into a ball and place into one of the cups on the baking tray. Flatten by pressing down
firmly with your fingertip.
Step 2. Indent around the sides of each pie with
either your ball stylus tool or toothpick. I’ve done
three different styles on my mini pies, so have a
play around and see which way you think looks
best. Don’t worry if you make a mistake... simply
scrunch up the pie and start that one again. When
you are happy with the edges of your pies, make
one or two small holes in the top of each pie.
Step 3. Step 3. On a scrap of paper or card scribble
with your white pastel until you have enough dust
to colour the number of mince pies that you are
making. Add a touch of raw sienna and gold ochre
pastel and mix. You want to achieve pastel ‘dust’ in
a shade that resembles the darker parts of baked
pastry. Brush this pastel powder around the edges
of each pie.
Step 4. On another scrap of paper place a few

drops of liquid clay. Makes some ‘dust’ from burnt
umber and gold ochre pastels and mix this into the
liquid clay. Using the tip of a toothpick and a tiny
amount of the coloured liquid clay carefully ‘colour
in’ the one or two small holes on the top of each
pie. This part does not have to be perfect... just as
in real life mince pies, quite often the juice will
bubble out during cooking and dribble down the
side of the pies. Bake your pies in your baking tray
on the ceramic tile in your clay oven as per the
instructions on your clay’s packaging. After baking,
leave the pies to cool before moving on to the next
step.

Step 5. With your pies still in the baking tray
varnish the top of your first pie very lightly with
either the matt varnish or the glue mixture. On a
piece of scrap paper scribble with your white pastel
to create a fine dust, this dust we will use as icing
sugar. Using your large soft brush pick up a good
quantity of the pastel dust and with the brush
positioned over the top of your first pie, tap the
handle so that the dust falls over the pie. Don’t let
the brush touch the pie at all. Repeat this step for
as many pies as you wish to dust with ‘icing sugar’.
Once the varnish or glue mixture has dried seal the
‘icing sugar’ dust with hairspray, hold the hairspray
approximately 30cm away from the baking tray and
spray liberally. When the hairspray has dried very
carefully prise your pies from the baking tray and
display as required.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
All text and photos ©2009 Vicky Guile – NJD Miniatures
www.njdminiatures.blogspot.com
Miniature Knitting
Baby essentials…
By AIM Member
Jeannette Fishwick

BOOTIES
Cast on 19 stitches.
Garter stitch 5 rows. (Every row knit)
Next row: K11, K2 tog tbl, (turn)
Row 1: *P 4, P2 tog, (turn)
Row 2: K4, K2 tog tbl, (turn)
Repeat from * until 13 stitches remain and with right side of work facing. Knit to end of row.
Purl 1 row.
Ribbon hole row:
*K 2 tog, yfwd, rep from * to last st, k1.
Knit three rows.
Cast off with size 18 needle if possible or very loosely.
Stitch foot and back seam of bootie and turn inside out and thread ribbon through holes.

KNICKERS:
Cast on 22 sts and rib 4 rows. Change to st st and work another 6 rows.
Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Decrease at each end of every row until 4 sts remain. Work 4 rows on these 4 sts and then increase at
each end of every row until you have 18 sts on the needle.
Cast on 2 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. (22sts)
Work 5 more rows st st and then 4 rows rib. Cast off loosely, preferably with a larger sized needle.
Sew side seams; holes not needed for ribbon just thread it through the ribbing.

BONNET:
Cast on 25 stitches.
Knit one row.
Pattern:
Work in pattern for 12 rows or to fit your dolls head.
Pattern:
Row 1: K1, * yf, skpo, k1, k2tog, yf, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K2, *yf, sk2togpo, yf, k3; rep from * to last 5 sts, yf, sk2togpo, yf, k2
Row 4: Purl

Decrease rows:
Row 1: Sl 1, K2, K 2 tog.* K3, K2 tog, rep from end of row.
Row 2, 4 & 6: Sl 1, purl to last st. K1.
Row 3: Sl 1, K1, K 2 tog,* K2, k2 tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, K2 tog.
Row 5: Sl 1,K 2 tog, * k1, k 2 tog, rep from * to end of row.
Row 7: K 2 tog to end of the row.
Leaving six‐inch thread break yarn and using a needle thread yarn through stitches and draw up back of
bonnet. Then using the thread left from drawing up the stitches sew up the back of the bonnet on stocking
stitch area. Sew in other loose thread and sew ribbon to corners or thread ribbon through holes from lace
pattern.
Enjoy…
Jeannette

Mini Hugs from Jeannette, Fern Tree
Join my Mini Knitting/Crochet List:
http://tinyurl.com/5pymo
See my Miniatures http://www.miniknitting.com
See where I live http://www.ferntree.org.au
Christmas
Baubles
Tutorial…
By AIM Member, Mags Cassidy
Do you want to make that perfect finishing touch for your 1:12th scale
Christmas tree or a simple and attractive table top centre piece?
Then look no further, as Mags Cassidy of Mags-nificent Miniatures
shares this delightfully effective seasonal project.
You will need...

 White tacky glue
 Jewellery findings/filigrees
 Beads
 Tiny seed beads
 Fine flaked Glitter

I have simply glued onto a’ looped end’ post, small
seed beads and a larger bead.

When the glue has dried I then applied a little more
to the large bead and dipped it into fine glitter.

The Butterfly makes a beautiful bauble to hang on

the tree or to tie to a mini‐gift.

When all the baubles are dry, arrange in a glass bowl.

The one in the

photograph is an
inexpensive goldfish
bowl.
Mags
www.mags‐nificent.co.uk
Text & Photographs ©Copyright Mags Cassidy
AIM 2010 Calendar
In miniature…!
By AIM Members, Terry & Anne Dateman
www.datemanbooks.com

Copyright © Dateman Books
Swaddled
Baby
Tutorial
By AIM Member Debie Lyons

This tutorial will show you how to

sculpt a tiny baby’s face and make a
swaddled baby. Before you start it is
important to read this tutorial
carefully and make sure that your
working area and tools are clean. Wear
white or pale clothes, wash your hands
before you start and make sure that
you have baby wipes to hand to
regularly clean your hands. Also have
pictures of sleeping baby’s faces to
hand and look at them regularly while
you are sculpting.
Tools and Materials
 Polymer Clay ‐ I use Sculpey Living
Doll (other clays will work just as well)
 Sculpting tools – I use a clay shaper, a 3 in 1 tool and various sewing needles. It is fine to
use whatever tools you feel comfortable with or have to hand
 Knitting needle – to form eye sockets
 Fine brush
 Baby oil
 Cotton thread and needle
 Finger tubing
 A little stuffing
 Fabric of your choice ( 31/2 inch x 3 ½ inch square and a 3 inch x 1 1/12 inch piece.)
 Genesis paints or Acrylics
Method 1 2
1 – Take a piece of clay and form
it into a ball approx. 1cm in
diameter
2 – take a similar sized piece of
clay form it into a sausage shape
and attach it onto the bottom of
the ball
4 5
3
3 – Smooth all around the area where the two pieces of
clay meet. This will form a long neck and also give 5
something for the fake body to attach to. Slightly flatten
the front of the baby’s face area.

4 ‐ Take your knitting needle (or other similar tool) and at
the halfway point of the face area make two indentations
for the eye sockets. Then add a small piece of clay below
these indentations on the middle of the face.
5

5 ‐ The small piece of clay is your babies nose (Remember
those pictures? Have a look a them now). Smooth around it
carefully till it resembles a nose and use a small needle to
make the nose holes.

6 – Now take two small balls of clay and roll them into little
sausage shapes. Place these in the eye sockets. Smooth
the clay in a downward motion till you can see a sleeping
eye shape forming. Refine the bottom of the lids with a
small needle. 6

7

7 ‐ Below the baby’s nose make a
hole and push upwards. This is the
start of the mouth. I have made a
larger one so that the details show
up. In an upward motion pull up
clay from the top edge of the hole to
form the top lip.
8 – Take a teardrop shaped piece of clay
and place it on the face as shown.
Smooth all around the joins except the
top part.

9 – Continue smoothing and carefully
push the bottom of the lip in slightly and
work on the bottom part of the baby’s
chin. Now is the time to carefully lift off
any stray hair or dirt that is on the clay
(trust me no matter how careful you
have been there will be at least one bit
of lint LOL). Smooth all over the baby’s
8
head to remove fingerprints (I use baby
oil and a fine brush). Then bake the head
as instructed on the packet of the clay
that you are using.

Nearly there!
10 – Carefully tint the baby’s face with a
light pink colour and tint the lips. Take
the tubing and cut off about 2 inches.
Sew up one end and put a little stuffing
in. Then insert baby’s head with a little
glue and gather and sew the fake body
9
in place.

11 – Fold the longer edge of the smaller
piece of fabric over and place it on the
baby’s head. Glue in place.

12 – Take the larger piece of fabric fold it
into a triangle and place on the baby.
Wrap your baby in such a way that no
raw edges of fabric show.
Or wrap your baby in a crochet
or knitted shawl and display.

10
11
12
On a final note this tutorial is intended as a guide only, I take no
responsibility for the final outcome for different people work in
different ways. Practice and enjoy.
Debie Lyons of Piskies & Poppets
www.piskiesandpoppets.com
Text & Photographs © Debie Lyons
The Miniature...
GRAPEVINE

NE W New AIM Members AIM is now on...

For any readers that use Facebook, AIM is now there!
We would like to extend a warm welcome to the
following new members who have joined the AIM Just log in as normal and search for Artisans In
Miniature.
Association in the past month:
The AIM Blog is linked to the page too, so anything
that appears on the main blog instantly also appears
Ana Crista Novo Viola Williams on Facebook.

Francesca Vernuccio Cathy McGhee If you would like to link your blog to the AIM page on

Facebook on Networked Blogs, please feel free to do
Janet Harmsworth Tracey Topps
so.

Over the Christmas period alone we have already

NEW From attracted 91 followers, so if you have a Facebook
account, why not come follow
Dateman Books...
us!
Dateman Books are
pleased to introduce
their second Agatha
Christie mystery to
their range of 20th The Award Winning...
century classics. Miss Marple`s "The Body in the
Library" joins "Murder on the Orient Express" in AIM Advent Calendar
miniature for the first time.
The AIM editorial team are
These books are produced under license from Agatha delighted to announce that the AIM
Christie Ltd (A Chorian Company) and the original Association’s 2009 Advent Calendar
artwork (from the 1942 first edition) used on the cover was yet another award winner!
is by kind permission of Harper Collins.
Throughout December the AIM advent Calendar has
Each book contains the first chapter of the novel collectively won over 30 prestigious awards from
(readable) and is hand bound in black linen with a Scribd...
coloured dust jacket. The books are priced at £7 each
Featured Rising
(plus p&p) and can be ordered from our web site:
www.datemanbooks.com
...and as a result, countless projects from the AIM
advent calendar were also featured on both the
Buttercup Miniatures Kit Review… Scribd homepage and in their highly competitive and
extensive ‘How To’ charts!
Three of Buttercup Miniature’s 1/12th scale kits have
been reviewed in the latest edition of Dolls House and So huge ‘congratulations’ to EVERYONE who was
Miniature Scene (February 2010). involved with this truly award winning calendar!
www.buttercupminiatures.co.uk

COMING nEXT
MONTH…
Don’t Miss A Thing!

All FREE and fully
downloadable at:
Catch the latest news from all
around our ‘miniature’ world!

Loads more fantastic quality
projects all written exclusively
by AIM members!!!

Written by artisans Enjoyed by miniaturists...!

Please Note:
The projects included in this publication are not suitable for children under the age of 14.
The miniatures featured in this magazine are collectors items and therefore unsuitable for children under 14.
All projects are undertaken at your own risk. AIM does not accept responsibility for any injury incurred.
All articles and photographs used in this magazine are copyright of their authors.
The AIM magazine’s content is for private use only and it must not be reproduced in part or in full for commercial gain in any form.
Each artisan contributor is responsible for their own work / contribution to the AIM magazine
and retain full responsibility for their published work. Artisans In Miniature 52
The authors/self publishers cannot be held legally responsible for any consequences arising from following instructions,
advice or information in this magazine.
This issue would not have been possible without the generous
contributions from the following AIM members…
Many thanks therefore go to...
Bea (Fiona) Broadwood Julie Campbell
Carol Lester Julie Kendall
Carol Smith Kathryn Gray
Debie Lyons Lorrie (Lorna) Harvey
Eileen Sedgwick Mags Cassidy
Ernesto Baldini Maia Bisson
Frances Powell Mary Williams
Helen Woods Philippa Todd
Helena Bleeker Sally Watson
Jain Squires Sandra Morris
Janine Crocker Stéphanie Kilgast
Jeannette Fishwick Terry & Anne Dateman
Julia Jeffreys Vicky Guile
See you again next month…!


AIM January 2010 Project Supplement

Enviado por

Dados do documento

Direitos autorais

Formatos disponíveis

Compartilhar este documento

Compartilhar ou incorporar documento

Opções de compartilhamento

Você considera este documento útil?

Este conteúdo é inapropriado?

Direitos autorais:

Formatos disponíveis

AIM January 2010 Project Supplement

Enviado por

Direitos autorais:

Formatos disponíveis

Contents…

5 Editor’s Note: Read Bea Broadwood’s introduction

Page 16 - Knitted Miniature Gloves: 19

30 Page 30 - A Toy Box In 1:24th Scale:

Page 38 – Tassels: 39

Page 43 – Rudolf The Red Nosed Hobby Horse: 43

Page 51 – Christmas Colouring Book: 47

You will need:

Would you like to get your

If so, then don’t miss next

You will need...

Are YOU a professional miniature artisan??

Do you sell quality handmade miniatures to the public??

Do you want to showcase your work and talents on a global platform??

Do you want to be part of a supportive professional association??

AND do you want it all for FREE???

Before you begin

Making up the cushion and

Carefully remove the cushion pad

Project by ©Helena Bleeker for the AIM Advent Calendar

Inukshuks served as scarecrows

INUKSHUK (STONE MAN) Therefore, they can have several

I wish you a happy Holiday season

A Christmas Colouring Book

Cut out Cover and fold down the centre

Copyright © Carol Lester

Roll two balls of black clay

You will need...

Step 4. On another scrap of paper place a few

Christmas tree or a simple and attractive table top centre piece?

Then look no further, as Mags Cassidy of Mags-nificent Miniatures

shares this delightfully effective seasonal project.

You will need...

The Butterfly makes a beautiful bauble to hang on

The one in the

This tutorial will show you how to

or knitted shawl and display.

On a final note this tutorial is intended as a guide only, I take no

responsibility for the final outcome for different people work in

different ways. Practice and enjoy.

Debie Lyons of Piskies & Poppets

Francesca Vernuccio Cathy McGhee If you would like to link your blog to the AIM page on

Over the Christmas period alone we have already

Written by artisans Enjoyed by miniaturists...!

Carol Lester Julie Kendall

Carol Smith Kathryn Gray

Debie Lyons Lorrie (Lorna) Harvey

Eileen Sedgwick Mags Cassidy

Ernesto Baldini Maia Bisson

Frances Powell Mary Williams

Helen Woods Philippa Todd

Helena Bleeker Sally Watson

Jain Squires Sandra Morris

Janine Crocker Stéphanie Kilgast

Jeannette Fishwick Terry & Anne Dateman

Julia Jeffreys Vicky Guile

See you again next month…!

Você também pode gostar