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New!

ANECALC Help Guide

ANECALC is a tool developed by American & Efird (A&E) to


assist in estimating the amount of thread consumed in a sewn
product. This information can then be used to calculate the Thread
Cost per Garment and the estimated number of cones you will
need for a quantity of sewn products you are planning on
producing.
You do not need to have any special software on your computer
because ANECALC was developed using Microsoft Excel
spreadsheets.
The ANECALC workbook has Sheets shown as Tabs at the
bottom used for the following:
INSTRUCTIONS tab on how to use the program.

SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE


- If you are not family with the ISO 4915 stitch numbers, you
can look them up on the ISO4915 Tab below.
- For many stitches you must first measure the needle spacing
or seam width before selection the stitch.
(Ex. 504 -1/8 3 Thd Overedge).
- It is important to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch because
this will determine the amount of thread consumed in making
the seam.
NUMBER OF ROWS OF STITCH
-

New! ISO STITCHES for identifying the correct stitch type.


New! WORKSHEET tab and THREAD COST Tabs have been

combined so you can see everything on one spreadsheet. This


also allows you to copy the entire worksheet to compare thread
cost using other thread combinations.
mm to Inches tab that helps you convert fractions of an inch to
millimeters.
STARTING A NEW ANECALC SPREAD SHEET
- To begin a new ANECALC spreadsheet, you can either use an
existing Apparel Guidelines ANECALC spreadsheet for a similar
garment and modify it for the garment you are doing the analysis
on; or you can decide to begin from scratch with a new
Spreadsheet.
WHEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH
- When you are starting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, iIt is
important that you select the correct spreadsheet for the weight of
the fabric being used in the garment. There are three basic
ANECALC spreadsheets:
Light Weight
2 to 4 oz weight fabrics
Medium Weight 5 8 oz weight fabrics
Heavy Weight
9 15 oz weight fabrics
The Weight of fabric determines the ratio of Needle to Bottom
thread on the Thread Consumption Table that is used to estimate
the amount of thread consumed.
- For each sewing operation on the garment, list the name of the
sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type is being used, how many
rows of ISO Stitch there are, the Stitches Per Inch (SPI), and the
length of the seam.
AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS
- At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet is a cell for the
average thickness of the seam in millimeters. This is based on
the average seam thickness in the entire garment. In most cases,
you will not have to change this if you are using the correct
spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavy weight fabric.

Refers to the number of rows of ISO stitch used to make the


seam. This does NOT refer to the number of needles or the
number of pieces (i.e., pockets, etc.) being sewn, BUT the
number of rows of the ISO stitch you selected in the previous
column to make the seam.
For example, a 406 stitch is a two needle bottom coverstitch.
This two needle stitch type makes only one row of stitch.
Rule: whenever the needles are connected with thread on
either the top or bottom side of the seam, one row of stitch is
being produced.
On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a pocket
with a 301 Lockstitch, then two independent rows of lockstitch
are being used.

SPI
- SPI refers to Stitches Per Inch and is the measurement of the
number of links of thread between needle holes in one inch.
- For example, a typical number of stitches per inch on denim
would be 8 spi. See A&Es technical bulletin on Selecting the
Proper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&Es website.
LENGTH OF SEAM
- The length of seam is the measurement of the seam length
including seam margins but does not include chain-off.
- A&E has ANECALC spreadsheets available in either inches &
yards or centimeters & metres. The selection of the proper
sheet is normally dependent upon the international location
and what measurement system is used for the cone put-ups.
To convert from meters to yards multiply times .91. To convert
from meters to yards divide by .91.
- In the Americas., a typical cone of thread is wound on a 6,000
yard put-up. In Europe or Asia, a typical cone is wound on a
5,000 metre put-up.
Many sewing operations have mirror components on each
side of the garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left
pocket, etc.

Many sewing operations have mirror components on each


side of the garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left
pocket, etc.

AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS


- At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet is a cell for the
average thickness of the seam in millimeters. This is based on
the average seam thickness in the entire garment. In most cases,
you will not have to change this if you are using the correct
spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavy weight fabric.

ANE CALC Instructions (continued)

- If the sewing operation includes sewing both of these parts, then


double the measurement for the seam length.
BARTACK, BS, BH & EMBROIDERY
- If a bartack, buttonsew, buttonhole or embroidery selection is
made from the ISO Stitch Column, you should always enter the
number of tacks, buttons, etc. under Rows of Stitch, and 1
under SPI and 1 under length of seam. (ex. Tack Belt Loops
10 tacks, 1 under SPI and 1 under Length of Seam).

INSERTING A NEW ROW


- First, click in the row where you want to insert the new row.

HIDING ROWS
- A typical ANECALC spreadsheet has enough rows for 50
operations but in many cases, you will not need all these rows.
- If you want to Hide the Rows between the last operation and the
Totals at the bottom of the spreadsheet, Click in the left hand
margin and drag down the Row numbers until you are just
above the Totals.

- Next right click your mouse and select HIDE.

Next, right click and select Copy.


Now right click again and select Insert Copied Cells.
You will now have two identical rows of one above the other.
Next, right click on the Stitch Box in the new row you just
added.

Then select Format Control from the pop-up menu.


Change the Cell Link to the proper Row Number. In this case,
change the D17 to D16 and then click on OK.

ANE CALC Instructions (continued)


- Now you can change the operation numbers and the information
in the New Row you just inserted.
- If you change the Stitch Type, make sure that you put the right
thread type under Needle, and either Bobbin or Looper.

there are coverage issues because there are too many


variables that can affect this calculation.
Ask about ANECALC PLUS that can help calculate the total
cones required to thread up a sewing production line.
-

New! INSERTING THREAD SIZE, TYPE & COLOR

- New! To make ANECALC easier, we have added a section at


the top of the spreadsheet for putting the thread size / type
descriptions (column M). You can also change the Thread
Group Description rather than using Thread type #1, #2, etc.
(i.e., Topstitching #1, Looper threads, Serging threads)
- New! When you enter a thread Tex Size/Type/Clr (i.e, T-24
Perma Core - Clrs), you will see this same thread identification
to the right in column O. This can then be copied and pasted in
all operations using this particular SKU.
- For ANECALC to be able to calculate the cost per garment, the
Thread information for each operation must be inserted next to
the thread consumption calculation.
- Rule: There must be a thread description placed in the
appropriate column for the Needle, Bobbin and Looper thread
positions where there is any thread consumed. IF AT THE
BOTTOM OF THE SPREADSHEET UNDER TOTAL YARDS
YOU SEE THE SAME NUMBER REPEATED, YOU MISSED
AN CELL FOR THREAD SIZE & TYPE.
- We strongly recommend that you copy and paste all thread
descriptions as mentioned above. Never type the same thread
Size / Type multiple cells at the top as ANECALC will double the
consumption.

New! If you have any questions, contact your local A&E

Technical Support Representative.


New! COPYING A WORKSHEET TO COMPARE COSTS

USING A DIFFERENT THREAD COMBINATON


- New! To make a cost comparison using a different thread
combination in ANECALC, simply right click on the Workshop
Tab that you just completed, select Copy.

- Click on the Tab you want to copy and click the Create a Copy
button at the bottom and then click OK.

CALCULATING TOTAL THREAD CONSUMPTION BY SKU


- Rule: The total amount of thread under the SKU Summary must
be equal to the Total amount of thread found under the
worksheet. If they are not the same, then you have missed
copying and pasting an SKU in the SKU Summary portion of the
spreadsheet.
CALCULATING THREAD COST PER GARMENT
- To calculate the thread cost per garment, enter the thread putup and price per cone. Example: 6,000 @ $6.00.
- Any currency can be used on ANECALC.
CALCULATING NUMBER OF CONES NEEDED
- To calculate the Number of cones required, type in the
production requirement and ANECALC will calculate the number
of cones needed for the thread in the sewn products.
- If very small lots of production are to be produced, then more
thread may have to be ordered to have the proper coverage on
the sewing floor. By coverage, we mean the minimum number
of cones needed to thread up the machines on a production line
to run the work efficiently without delay. ANECALC will not
calculate the minimum amount of cones you will need when

- You will now have an identical spreadsheet where you can


replace the thread types and sizes, etc. and see what impact
this change will have compared to your original spreadsheet.

of cones needed for the thread in the sewn products.


- If very small lots of production are to be produced, then more
thread may have to be ordered to have the proper coverage on
the sewing floor. By coverage, we mean the minimum number
of cones needed to thread up the machines on a production line
to run the work efficiently without delay. ANECALC will not
calculate the minimum amount of cones you will need when

ISO 4915 STITCH MATRIX

ANE CALC

American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - Medium Wt. Fabrics

Avg. Seam Thickness


OK to change below (i.e.,
Topstitching #1

Fill in the information highlighted in "yellow"

Thread Description (ex. Tex Size /


Brand)

Copy & Paste from column "M" to


Column "O"

Company Name:

Lining

T-27 Perma Spun - White

T-27 Perma Spun - White

ABC MFG. COMPANY

Body

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

mm

1.9

Garment Description:

GYM SHORT - KNIT

SIZE: LARGE

Photo

=
=
=

Cost Per Garment =

US$

Oper
#

Name of Operation

=
Rows

Seam

Needle

Needle

Bobbin

Bobbin

Looper

Looper / Cover

Total

ISO

of

Length

Thread

Thread

Thread

Thread

Thread

Thread

Metres /

Stitch

Stitch

SPI

CM

Metres

Tex / Type / Color

Metres

Tex / Type / Color

Metres

Tex / Type / Color

Oper.

301

12

14

0.53

T-27 Perma Spun - White

1.88

T-27 Perma Spun - White

2.42

Close Lining Crotch

Attach Elastic to Legs

12

143

5.53

T-27 Perma Spun - White

19.60

T-27 Perma Spun - White

25.13

Join Sideseams

12

31

1.20

T-27 Perma Spun - White

4.27

T-27 Perma Spun - White

5.48

Hem Back Pocket

10

16

0.28

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

Make Lining Pocket

10

17

0.59

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

Set Hip Pocket

10

36

0.64

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

Decorative Tape Side Seams

10

69

13.72

Close Front & Back Seams

10

104

6.86

Close Crotch Seam

10

16

10

Hem Bottom

10

11

Bind Side Vents

12

Bartack Side Vents

13
14
15

0.27

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

0.54
2.10

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

2.70

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

11.23

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

24.95

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

5.61

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

12.48

1.08

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

0.89

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

1.97

157

2.80

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

2.69

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

5.50

10

33

0.59

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

0.56

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

1.15

0.22

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

0.06

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

0.28

Attach Lining to Short at Waist

10

86

6.04

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

Preclose Elastic WB

10

10

0.29

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

0.28

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

4 Ndl Topstitch Waistband

10

107

14.04

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

SUBTOTALS

54.42

0.61

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

9.86

4.48

10%

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

66.93

12.58
138.41

ANECALC THREAD COST ANALYSIS


Page 11 of 12

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

15.90
0.56

11.49

125.83
Percent Waste

1.25

TOTALS

Total Metres/Garment Consumed


Metres/Garment - Waste
Total Metres/Garment w Waste

Program Sz (units)

25.54
125.83

Oper
#

Name of Operation
Copy & Paste Thread SKU's
From Above

T-27 Perma Spun - White

T-27 Perma Spun - Clrs

Rows

Seam

Needle

Needle

Bobbin

Bobbin

Looper

Looper / Cover

Total

ISO

of

Length

Thread

Thread

Thread

Thread

Thread

Thread

Metres /

Stitch

Stitch

Metres

Tex / Type / Color

Metres

Tex / Type / Color

CM

Metres

Tex / Type / Color

TOTAL

SPI

Put-Up

Price

Thread Price

Thread Price

METRES

(5000M)

Per Metre

Per Garment

10,000
# of Cones needed

36.32
102.09

3
4

138.41

Total Metres/Garment w Waste

Currency
US$
Per Garment

Prices are for comparative purpose only. Contact your A&E Representative for you exact prices.

Page 12 of 12

Oper.