Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
BASIC AND
LINGERIE-INSPIRED
DESIGNS
..
JOAN McGOWAN-MICHAEL
INTRODUCTION
THEBRA
THESLIP
32
THE CORSET
56
THE CAMISOLE
84
THES TOCKING
110
158
159
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INDEX
160
156
159
132
Quite simply. lingerie is the very fir"t layer of clothinga woman pUison and the la~tla)'er
she takes off. II holds and shapes a woman into whate\er (orm is dictated by the trends
of the day and also symbolizes (emininity. eroticism. and the mysteries o( imimdC)'. A"
per..onal as the items themselves. the names for a woman's undergarments have taken
mallY fo rm.:; Ihrougholll history. U"mellliQllahles comes
10
mind,
ilS
do dailllies and
underpinnings. II was nOI umillhe mid-nineteenth cemury ,hat the collective term for
them came to be known as lingene. a word derived from lin. the French word (or Hnen.
HislOriL:ally, as fa.,hion eras have come and gone. lingerie has changed (orm
as well. If the newot styles required a wasp \\'aiSI Or a high, pointed bust. lingerie
designers (ollowed suil with new designs 10 mold the body accordingly. For example,
nineleenlh-century fashion dictated dlata womarl have acurvy torso nnd a tiny waist. A,>
a result. the body-squeezing cor;et. a ruanel of engineering. was inwnted. The )910..
drew away from this highly shaped look and moved IUward the modern. independent
flapper girl and a boyish figure. The fir:;t brassieres appeared. not to suppon the
breasts, but to bind and flallen them into the fashionable androgynous shape. As the
fashion pendulum swung and breasts again became the focus uf fashion in the 1940s
and 1950s. aircraft magnate Iloward Ilughcs applied his brilliant engineerin!!; mind to
the task of '>upponing, and at the S<!me time accentuating, a (ull bu,>t. The result wa';
the invention of the fir'll undcrv.'ire bra.
I came of age in the 1970... a time when femini<;b tlnev. away their
bra~
to
express their (reedom ;md the style for undenhings was basic, function'll mel- as
far as I was concerned
and grandmother and the older lady who lived next door had some intriguing pieces
in Iheir
drawe~
nO'iC-cone bras. slippery $atin bed jackets. ~amed ~tockings. and strange flat piece<;
wid, hooks, grips. and rubber. Some of the..r- items had boning and
win.~
and such
interesting construction I couldn't imagine what they were suppo<;ed to do. :'lome h'ld
lovely embroidcry and lace. and I wondered why anyone would go to such trouble to
decorate an item that would ultimately be co\ cred up. ilUl most of all. in my mind.
these items were the l~sence of femininity, <'omething I thought I'd never get a chance
tv ,;hare in ... ince the fashion (or it '!tt!Cmed to have passed me by.
How nai\e I
W'h
about the
cycl~
around again and agnin. By the time I'd grown up, gone 10 design school. and landed
my first job
<IS iI
designer for a major lingerie retaik'r, the time was ripe again for
were feeling secure enough to express their femininity agOlin, and I WOlS right there, at
the right time, to help them do it.
In recent years, we have seen the focus of lingerie change from a supporting
role to a starring one. Lingerie sryle is everywhere. Slips have become dresses unto
themselves, cut on the bias in satin or prints and trimmed with luxurious lace. BrOi
straps peek out from under tank top<; and even ing dresses, and the bra itself is a
fashion accessory. meant to be glimpsed under sheer tOpS and unbuttoned sweaters.
Undcrwires and boning appear in tops and dresses with lacing that mimics the oldfashion ed corsets. And thanks to pop starlets and low-cut jeans, the thong panty
has made an (often literal) appearance. Truly nOt a season goes by lhat the fashion
designers don't dream up new ideas for outerwear derived from lin~eri e.
But why hand-knit lingerie? you might ask. The OInswer requires no more than
a peek into the lingerie drawer. Most of the garments found there are actually made
from knitted fabrics albeit machine-made ones. But Il<md-knined lingerie is hardly a
revolutionary idea: it is simply one that is being revived. In the centuries before central
heating became common, all members of a family sported hand-knit dr .. wers. vestS,
long johns, petticoats, socks, and stockings to stay warm. Wool was the fiber of choice
for its warmth and wicking properties.
Since warmth has become less of an issue with the advent of dependable indoor
heating, we are now able to knit lingerie for the pleasure and prettiness of it without
worrying about this function. \Ve may use luxurious silks. linen blends, or easy-care
cottons. with the outcome often geared most toward aesthetics. \Ve may choose yarns
for their stretch and recovery. their shine, their crispness, o r simply for their indulgent
softness against the skin.
While my hand-knitted lingerie may not do the heavy-duty molding and shaping
of its predecessors, ilcan be a fun and fanciful addition to the wardrobe. I n each chapter
of this book, I present a basic garment- the bra, the slip, the corset, the camisole, the
stocking, and more-as well as garments that contain element) of the original, but
expound upon it. Some designs :lre truly functional. holding up breasts and stockings
and lending some spice to a well-turned ankle. Some arc purely for fashion and fun,
daring us all to bare a little skin. All of the designs prettily remi nd us that to be a
woman is a gift that can be celebrated every day with whatever we choose to knit and
to wear.
INTRC~u,-
Tlor;
C.J~U plN I
TH E BRA
Breasts, as any woman knows, can be ralhcr unruly body pans. They bounce, jiggle, sway,
and flop as a matter of course. Keeping their motion in check- and lending them suppOrt
and beauty- is the main function of the brassiere (or bra for short) . While the bra is a fairly
modern device-only a hundred years old or so-the need for breast suppon , restraint,
and adornmelll has existed throughout history.
In ancient Crete, for example, around 1600 Be, j\linoan women contrived an early
vcrsion of the corset that cim:hed the waist and lifted the breasts, which were left bare
and painted prettily as something of a fashion accessory. In Ancient Greece athletic women
bound their breasts with wool fabric for maximum suppOrt. And in early centuries
throughout Europe, women downplayed their breasts by flattening them with bodices and
wearing tunics.
At the beginning of the 14th century, however, with the Henaissance JUSt under way,
practicality began
10
give way
10
began to wrap their garments on the outside with long strips of leather or fabric to shape
the waist and lift the bosom. During the late 18th century, a high bosom was de rigeur, and
it was achieved with a bodice that was built inside the popular empire-waisted frocks . The
19th cemury is nOlOrious for its torturously corseted feminine waisdine, and those corsets
did double duty in supponing the bust for almost one hundred years.
The bra as we know it firsl appeared in the late 19th century. And the first patent for
one was issued to fo,'l ary Phelps Jacob in 1914, a clever New York debutante who fashioned,
from silk handkerchiefs and ribbon, a garment 10 wear under a sheer evening gown in lieu
of a heavy corset. She later sold her palent to Warner Brothers Corset Company (today the
maker of Warner's undergarments) for a mere SI,500; over the next thirty years, Warner's
made more than $15 million from the patent.
Bras have come a long way since the donning of a pair o f handkerchiefs. And as you'll
see in the following pages, uley have become the inspi ration for a whole new era of closefitting, bust-enhancing fashions, such as the Retro Ribby Twinset, which uses accordion
ridges to suggest a bra-like bodice; the Chocolate Creme SquarcNeck Top, which uses an
empire waist to bring attention to the bosom, and the Citrus Sun Top, which mixes the best
of retro styling and bosom-y allure.
BAS IC BRA
My basic bra is a pretty underwired demi-cup model, sited to fit women from 32A to 38D and styled afier
the designs that give French women their chic, sexy allure. For this bra to be functional, the pieces aTe knit
in elasticited colton yarn . This yarn allows for good stretch and recovery, properties similar to those of
the fabrics used in commercia! bras. You are welcome to substitute other fibers by holding a strand ofyour
favorite yarn together with a strand of matching elastic thread (as long as the proper gauge is achieved).
As with many purchased bras, the cups are knit in two separate pieces, stabilired with an iron-on tricot
lining, and sewn together. Padded tubes affabric caLLed channeling are sewn around the inside of each cup
and underwire is inserted into it ( I prefer a single continuous underwire instead of two separate wires for a
barer, sexier look and simpler construction). As a final finishing touch, a satin ribbon is woven through the
eyelets at the top of each cup.
No self-respecting French woman would be caught dead in mismatched undergarments, so I've added
a matching string bikini.
SIZES
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
FINISHED ME ASUREMENTS
Fabric scissors
YARN
NEEDLES
GAUGE
KNITTING LINGERIE ST
_f
"
,"
BRA
BOTTOM CUPS (m'ke 2)
'.
"
"
"
BO remaining
"
"
"
"
BOTTOM CUP
SIS.
SIZES A AND 6
held together.
\'(Iork in SI SI for 3 (3, 5, 7) rows.
"
.,
..
Decrease I St at each end of needle every other row 2 times22 (24, 27, 29) SIS .
17
"
Next HS row: KI (2, I, I), ' yo, kltog, repeat (rom ' ,
Next \VS row: BO in knit.
BOTTOM CUP
"
SIZES C AND 0
,
g
:
~
"'"
"
"
"
"
"
"
BOTTOM
CUPS
L TOP CUPS ~
"
-,,'
_w
-'"
"
"
"
"
LEFT BACK BAND
_38'
DIRECTION or KNITTING
-c
I "'~"
"
fiNISHING
10
STEP 1
Using Me only, and with RS facing, pick up and knit 3 SIS for
every 4 rows along bottom of band (left selvedge, from BO
row to CO row). Work in Garter 51 for 3 rows. BO.
TABS (make 2)
STEP 3
~
STEP"
STRAPS (make 2)
FINISHING
Assem6le Bra: Using steam iron, fuse interfacing to hacks of
10
STEP 5
~:,s, :1
o RIGHT SlOE OF FABRIC
o WRONG SlOE OF FABRIC
in step 2.
Add Unduwire and Elastic: Apply channeling to inside of hra
10
center of
THE
PA NTY
BACK
PA NTY
fRONT
5 (6, 7, 8)"
PANT Y
Using
~I C
I'
KNI1
IN
fRIl
TYI E
~I C
alone.
LEG BANDS
Using MC and with RS facing, pick up and knit 3 sts for every
4 rows along left leg opening.
\Vork in Garter Sl for 3 rows. BO.
Repeat for right leg band.
WAISTBAND
Using t-,'IC and with RS facing, pick up and knit 39 (44, 49, 54)
STS
StS
FINISHING
lHEBRA
hag of beauty cricks, and ies one j'Ye borrowedfor tlzis design, a kickback to the era of pinup princesses.
What beuer way to bring attention up front and cemer than with design eLements from a bra?
The shrug features
twO
fibbed fan -shaped fronts dral barely cover the bosom. Underneath is a lank
with side shaping to nip the waist and a hori{ontally ribbed bandeau bodice, gathered fetchingly in the
center for maximum exposure. The accordion ribbing contracts or expandf to give a custom fit.
fiNISHED MEASUREMENTS
Shrug: 34
NOTION S
Stitch holders
Stitch markers
Yarn needle
Smooth waste yarn
YARN
GAUGE
NEEDLES
THf BRA
ST ITCH PATTERNS
SHRUG
Hows 1,3,5,7, and 9 ellS): K2, 'pl, k2; repeat from' to end.
How 2 and all other W $ rows: P2, kl, p2; repea t from
10
from beginni ng .
encl .
st itch.
Ridge Sitleli
SIS
remain.
"
"
:i
"
,"'"
00
.;
.;
::::.-!
~
SHRUG
BACK
".-
'"
SHRUG
RIGHT
FRONT
!O-
.-,
"
"
;:;:i
:e~
15 Y. ( 17 X, 19 Y. , 20 JI. , 12 %, Z3 X)"
16
'J
S
.,;
''""
'"
SHRUG
SLEEVE
c",\O~t,;
o\~t \"'"'\
o~ 'f.""
-,
~
"
~
RIGHT FRONT
FINISHING
I'OWS
5~,
remain .
TANK
BACK
Using smal ler needles, CO 79 (89, 99, 107, 115, 123) stS and
LEFT FRONT
Using smaller needles, CO 50 (50, 56, 56, 62, 62) sts and work
in Garter st for 2 rows.
78) sts.
TANK fRONT \
TANK BACK
\\---------S;.H;ORTRO~W;S~--------/
rows.
TANK
CHEST
\;Yz(17'1.,19,20Yz,22,23Yz)"
WAIST
14'1.(16'1.,18,19'1,.,21,22'1.)"
THE BRA
StS
remain .
FRONT
Next How (WS): P24 (29, 34, 38, 42, 46) , pm, p31, pm, p24
FINISHING
(29,34,38,42,46).
4 rows in Garter st, then BO all sts. Gather center front , slip
\'{reave in ends.
IX
armhole, and CO 70 (70, 75, 75, 80, 80) StS for left strap. Work
l3ack sts from holder, pick up and knit sts along Left Front
4 rows in Garter st, then BO al! sts.
Using smaller needles, CO 70 (70, 75, 75, 80, 80) StS for right
strap, pick up and knit sts along Right Front armhole, knit
hut they certainly showed plenty of skin, as they were primarily designed to give exposure to the sun.
My Citrus Sun Top would fit neatly intO {he playwear category. Since no bra would work underneath
it, the shaped cups and crisscrossed straps of the LOp itself are designed to lightly liJi the bust . Unlilce those
of the Basic Bra, the cups in this top are shaped wilh knitted-in vertical blLfl darts for a close fit and an
eye-catching play on c% r, while the vertical stripes whittle a slender middle.
SIZES
NEEDLES
cup sizes A ( B, C, D)
FINISHEO MEASUREMENTS
~) "
underhust
NO TIONS
Safety pin
Yarn needle
YARN
GAUGE
<..:
20
STITCH PATTERN
MIDRIFF
Suipe Pattern
(l8-row repeat)
Using
Using
28,32)
SIS.
Using
Using
Using
~'IC ,
(20,24,28) sts.
Continuing in Stripe Panern, work even until midriff
measures 28 (31
BO.
RIGHT CUP
For cup sizes A (13, C, D), using larger need les alld CC2, CO
SI S
rem'lin.
LEFT CUP
1<,"'1 TlNG
~G:
IF
TVL~
wi th HS facing.
FINISHING
MITERED SQUARE
SIS.
Row 2: Knit 10 2 sts before marked center SI, ssk, knit center st,
k2tog, knit
\0
end of row.
co edge of midriff.
Knit I row.
along edge. 13 0.
rows worked in CC I.
Fasten off.
Using smaller needles and CC2, pick up and knit 3 StS for
to
eel
SI.
every 4 rows along top edge of left end of midriff and along
BO.
~
"
~
;1
~
"
RIGHT
:::!'
CUP
'C-
"
"
6'1.(6\-1,8,8)"
'"
~
~i
0;1
MIDRIFF
~ ~.... ;:======================================::
28(3I Yz .35.38 ~ )"
THE BRA
creates a plunging neckline and a look of buxom fullness, and side shaping giyes the top an hourglass fit .
The boy short is brief hut comfortable, designed with short-row shaping to fit a curvy derriere.
For both pieces, I've chosen a kitten-soft, hand-dyed COllon yarn thac forms a modernist print all on
its own. Simple SLOckineue-stilch knitting throughout guarantees a satisfYing sense of accomplishment in
as liule as one weekend.
fiNISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Stitch markers
42~,
44 14)" hip
Yarn needle
Two yards I YJ." elastic
YARN
GAUGE
NEEDLES
One 24 " circular needle size US 10 (6 mm)
One pair straight needles size US 8 (5 mm)
Change needle size if necessary
to
HALTER
LOWER BODY
fO
end.
SIS.
Change to larger circu lar needle and join for working in the
12, 12, 12)" from beginning, ending <II a side seam marker.
BACK
Sm, k9, 13 0 38 (42, 46, 52, 56, 60) SIS, k to marker, s m, k27 (29,
from beginning.
to
k9.
12 h (13 %,14 y., 16, 17%, 18'1.)"
HALTER fRONT
rd
'"
~
HALTER BACK
>
'"
FRONT
,.:
,.:
HALTER
at each end of needle once-44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64) SIS.
,"
<
<
WAIST
Using smaller needles, CO 55 (55, 55, 65, 65, 65) SIS, pick up
and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along righl armhole beginning
at upper righl front, pick up and knit 3 SIS for every 4 SIS across
back, pick up :md knit 3 StS for every 4 rows along left armhole
ending at upper left frolll, CO 55 (55, 55, 65, 65, 65) SIS.
BOYSHORT
LEfT LEG
19 liz
(20 ~'z .
FIN ISHING
FINISHING
Use cast-on yarn tail to sew closed the slit in the bottom trim.
Sew center and crotch seams 10 join Left Leg to Right Leg.
Pull center fr011l band through yo hole at center front and pin
BOY SHORT
LE FT LEG
64,72,74,78)
SIS.
SIS,
RIG HT LEG
.. . ..
THE BRA
to
undershirt that every Little girl wore to a bra- the province of women-was a rite of passage and a huge
status symbol.
My mother, however, found it too large a feap for me and found a compromise: the camisette. This
strange little garment was sleeveless, had a square neckline, and stopped right under the breasts, where
was gathered into a wide band of elastic. Alas,
it
shirt, and 1 soon gathered up my own nickels, crept downtown to the five-and-dime, and purchased my own
first bra.
In retrospect, the lowly camisetle had some redeeming design details: an interesting neckline shape
and the suggestion of an empire waist, a surefire attention-getter for a pretty hosom. I've put them
dofling up thts curvy square-necked sheff, knit in a sparkly silk/woof blend y arn.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
GAUGE
THE BRA
to
use
NOTE
\Vork even until Front measures 11 (11, II !l2, II !i2, 12, 12,
rows to create morc room for your bust. This lengthens the
center of the fabric while keeping the side seam the same
length. At the designated point within the pattern, work a set
cc.
rev St st.
Change to MC and St st. \Vith 1\S facing, using r-,'Il increases,
C hange to
increase 6 sts evenly across next row- 82 (88, 95, 103, 111 ,
118,127, 133) sts.
Work even for 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3)". Add short rows here if
desired; see Note.
Work even until Front measures 14 (14, 15 V2, 15 !il. 16 Yl, 16 !i2,
10
they wrap.
Work one set of short rows for a C cup, twO for a D cup, three
for DO, and so on. For more even d ist ribution, work twO rows
to
Auach second ball of yarn 311ef1 neck edge, and work bOth
FRONT
Sl.
BO shou lders.
Wo rk even unlil
BACK
Work as for Front until4 CC rows at mid+back are completed .
Change 10 MC and St Sl. In crease 1 st at each end of needle
every 6 rows 3 times -82 (88, 95, 103,111, 118, 127, 133)sts.
\X'ork even untill3ack measures same as Front at side seams.
Shape armholes as for Front.
,
12(lZY., 13V., I';' 16Yi, 17Yz, 19, 191'.)"
'"'
'"
00
'"
:o.-~
')
~
,c'
'"
'"
d
'0-'"
,"
~.
1.
CHEST
H"
armhole~
BO shoulders.
FINISHING
ce, pick up 3
sts for every 4 rows and I 51 for every I 51 around neck edge.
THE BRA
\..
3)
THE SLIP
A typical slip can rake many forms and serve many purposes. It may be a "fu ll slip," worn
like a sleeveless dress or used to line an equally long garment, or, sans top, it can be a
"half slip," worn like a skirt or petticoal. The slip'S current form be,lfS Jiule resemblance
10 its lmceStors; it siems from Ihe crinoline, a crilical piece of an upper-class woman's
underpinnings in the 14th and 15th centuries. This garment consisted of a cagelike
COI1-
01/
10
il
sui!. Sophia Loren was quoted as saying, "There is no fi lm star today whose underwear we
have not seen." Never
WilS
outerwear culminated in the stip dress, cut on the bias and clinging
LO
every curve.
The designs in this chapter celebrate the slip's transformation from lowly undergarment to fashion statement. A stitch pattern added 10 the Basic Slip's traditional silhoueue
creates .. run ic tOp. An antique pattern for a utilitarian garment inspires a swingy skirt in the
Fit-n-Flare Trumpet Skirt. And wi th the One-Piece Wonder, an elasticized yarn morphs
the slip inLO a smoothing, sexy piece of bodywear.
'
..
.,
BASIC SLIP
When twas a chiLd, in the day of miniskirts and go-go hooLS, Hlomen worried aboUllhe length of not only
tlteir skirts and dresses, but also the undergarmems they wore wilh them. At the lime, the Woolworth in my
town carried slips that sported three rows of horizontal lace inserts at tlze hemline. The idea was that the
wearer could snip off a row or two of lace and shorten the slip to match the length of her skirt quickly and
without needing to sew. Being as enchanted as I was with pretty undies, I found the idea of cutting into
the lace and discarding the remainder unbeara6fe, and I could not imagine destroying a garment in such a
fiNISHED MEASUREMENTS
23
28 ~
NEEDLES
Stitch milrkers
Safety pin
YARN
Yarn needle
Sewing needle and thread
One yard Yz " taupe grosgrain ribbon , twO Yz " plastic
rings, and rwo
GAUGE
STITCH PATTERN
BACK
[Change to
pm, p35 (45. 45, 57, 57, 67). pm, p20 (20. 25, 25. 30, 30).
Decrease 1 SI at each end o f needle and
<It
outsides o f markers
SIS.
Work even for I ", marking last row with safety pin.
11 9) SIS.
Change to CC and work one Garter ridge as fo llows: kni t I
row a n RS, kni t I rowan WS.
Change to MC and work in SI
St,
SIS.
SIS.
Shape Neck alld Shoulder Points: Next row (RS): k 18 (20, 22,
FINISHING
Using CC and with RS facing, pick up and knit 3 sts for every
Attach a second ball of yarn and work both shou lder points
simultaneously, decreasing I
center front neck edge, and 3 StS for every 4 rows along right
Sl
point every other row 9 (10, 11 , 12, 13, 14) times until no
SIS
remain.
SI
along
Fasten off.
BO all but last st, then pick up and knit SIS across right armhole,
back neck, and left armhole. Turn work, and 130 all SIS.
FRONT
Malee Front Tahs: Cut twO pieces of grosgrain ribbon 2 Y:t "
WA IST
II Y. (13
THE SLIP
New Look created by Christian Dior. The wasp waist formed by the corselette-a strapless one-piece
undergarmenllhat carefully shaped a woman~s body from the bust to the hips-and the full skirts buoyed
by petticoats created the New Look's ultra-feminine and extremely popular silhouette. inspired by that
dramatic shape, I've created a somewhat casual bodice in a rib stitch to simulate the boning of a corselette
and attached a bubble skirt stuffed with tulle. The combination is transformed by sparklyyarn and iridescent
fabric into a one-ofa-kind party dress. But don't let this design stop with cocktail parties. The right yarn
fiNISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Stitch holder
12 (12 Yz, 13, 13 Yz, 14, 14 Yz, 15, 15)" length to armhole
Yarn needle
at side seam
Dress shown measures 31
Yz" at chest
YARN
NEEDLES
GAUGE
to
needles
THE SLIP
;=::=========; I~ ~
20 (20. 20. 22 ' . 22 '~, 24, 24. 25';,)"
'N
"
_ ,N.
~
:::oN
FRONT AND BACK
51,
wrp-1.
SI S
SIS
for I ( 1, I, I Yl,
I ~, I Vz, 2, 2)".
Shape JlYaisl: Cha nge ro smaller needles and work even for 7".
Change to larger need les and work even until Back measures
STITCH PATTERN
12 (12 liz, 13, 13 liz, 14, 14 Ifl, 15, 15)" :llong side sea m.
Wide Rib
(muhiple of 6 SIS
+ 5; 2-row repeat)
twO
BACK
Using larger needles, CO 71 (77, 83, 89, 95, 101 , 107, 113) SIS.
to
4(1
IINI
INO
INOf III
VlE
co 33 (33, 33, 37, 37, 39, 39, 41) sts for left
purl panel.
FINISHING
STEP 1
FINISHING
Assemble Bodice: Sew side seams.
fOLD
LINING
HEM fOLOLlNE
a 5" open ing in side seams of skirt lining. Press side seams open.
Fold outer ski rt up over lining by placing wrong sides
OUTER SKIRT
STEP 3
BASTE
- - - BASTE
C RS Of fABRIC
o WS OF FABRIC
sides together, and stitch I;'; " in from edge leaving one end open
for rurning. T urn necktie right side out, press, and slip-stitch
end closed. \'\leave through eyelets at upper edge of front bodice
as shown, then through twO eyelets at center back and lie.
STEP
~ I ~I~~~~~~~N~EC~K~T~'~E~~~~~~~
54", 58", or60"
Cut bridal tulle into Y2-yard pieces, crumple, and stuff through
bottom open ings in lining to fill out bottom of bubble skirt.
Slip-stitch openings closed. Hemove bridal tulle for laundering.
THE SLIP
0..'
41
S IL KS LIP
The slip has evolved to become just aboUl everything except an undergarment. We sleep and lounge iJ
it, wear it with sandals as a sundress, and throw on a shawl or fancy sh.mg and calL it evening wear. Th
slip definitely earned a place i.n fashion history in 1996, Ofl the day that CaroLyn Besselle married John 1
Kennedy, Jr., wearing a fabulous heavy salin rendition of the slip dress. It was, after decades of lace an.
pearl embellishment on wedding wear, almosl shocking in its simplicity and beauty.
This slip is a lingerie version of itself, knit in a pale pink hand-dyed silk/wool yarn combined wit
a silky hias-cut fabric skin. Feel j;ee to experiment with different yarn and fabric combinations as weLl Q
skirt Lengths. Keep it shorl for flirry lounge- or party-wear, or add a long, clinging skirt anytime you'd lik.
to make a glamorous impression.
NOTIONS
SIZES
36~,
Yam needle
Crochet hook size US H/8 (5 mm)
~ yard sheer fusible tricot interfacing
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Steam iron
Fabric scissors
YARN
2 ~ yards 45" wide silk charmeuse or other silky blouseweight woven fabric
2 yards marching~" lace trim
One sel hook-and-eye skin closure
Two~"
twO
NEEDLES
GAUGE
20 StS and 28 rows = 4" (10 em) in Stockineuc stitch (St Sl)
MIDRIFF
Vine Lace
CO 139 (157,175,193,202)
(multiple of 9 SIS
!low I CBS): K2, kl , yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo; repeat from )
end k2.
Row 3: K2, "yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k I, repeat from ,
end k2 .
SIS.
10
Decrease I 5\ at each end of needle every Olher row 3 limes7 (7, 7,7,6) SIS remain.
130.
RIG HT CUP
SIS.
SIS
dart.
Continuing in St
Sl,
BO.
:1 1IJI UJIIJIII:
L9 -ST REPEAT ~
!Ql
Bl
K2TOG
!bJ
SSK
YO
r-------------~M~~FF--------------'I
28 (31 Yi, 35, 38 '!., 40 Yi)"
RIGHT
CUP
6Yo(6Yo,8,8}"
I;
LEFT CUP
\'\/ork as for Right Cup, reversing shaping by bind ing off dart
FINISHING
from bottom to top, then chain for 20". Turn and work back in
o
o
CUT 2
ON BIAS
machine.
fabric in half as shown a.nd place pattern piece on the bias. Cut
out skirt pieces. Machine-sew side seams, leavi ng
Yz" seam
FOLD
tape. Mark center back of skirt and cut a 3" slit at the upper
back edge. \Vith right sides together, sew bias tape around
edges of slit. Wrap bias tape around edges of slit, and sew to
inside.
Sew lace trim around boltom edge of skirt .
Press skirt.
THE SUP
e ' 45
There is no sexier skirt silhouette than the trumpet shape. It flUgS tAe hips and lhighs~ flows around the
knees, and exposes a prelty ankle. The motion it makes whiLe walking is a sensuous s wish.
This version was inspired by the knitted petticoats women wore for warmth in the late 19th and early
20lh centuries. Adapted from antique kniuing pauerns of lhallime, it fitted at the top (originally to give
less bulk under a corset) and flare d at the bOllom to fill o"'the bell shaping. Circularly knit, my rendition
has the added bonus of openwork ladder-stitch lines, g iving the skirt a gored Look to punctuate curves and
emphasi{e the vertical line. Pretty liule glass leaves trim the ends ofthe drawstring tie.
NOT IONS
Stitch markers
Six~ "
Yarn needle
decorative glass beads, pink and brown multi
GAUGE
(SI. Sl.)
NEEDLES
l'
46
:)
10 obtain
correct gauge.
SKIRT
CO 128 (144, 160, 176, 192) SIS. Join for working in the rnd,
being careful not
10
twist
SIS;
of rnd.
Work in Garte r SI for 6 rnds, placing a SI marker after every 16
StS
SIS,
from '
to
SIS.
<
""
2
00'
00'
~.
~
Rnd 2: Knil.
<
15
to
152 (171,190,
SIS.
,-.
NOTIONS
SIZES
Yarn needle
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Fabric scissors
YARN
NEEDLES
to
GAUGE
20
SIS
and 28 rows
THE SLIP
NOTES
held together.
Cc
co
Sts
Work in 5t
Sf
"
~
~
~
"'"
BOTTOM
CUPS
'"
LTOP CUPS')
5'!' (5 1,4, 6 Yo, 6 liz)"
;;
I~
"
~
~
~
~
~
LEFT
BACK BAND
DIRECTION Of KNITTING
12\':(14\1,16'1.,18 11.)"
"
.,
0
FRONT
BACK
"d
,
0
"0
"
~
~"
~
to:
C
~
2\1:(2\1:.3\1:,3\1:)"
1O\1:(12\1:,14\1.,16V.)"
2Yz(2Yz,3Yz..3Yz)"
l'
:;2 :..
SIS
"
BO remaining st.
Using
Me
"
Me
SI
co row
fo r 3 rows. BO.
.."
"
..
BOTTOM CUP
"
SIZES A AND B
51
l~
t"
""
"
TABS (m'k,2)
Using Me only,
co 4 (4, 5, 5) sts.
"
"
STRAPS (make 2)
BOTTOM CUP
SIZES C AND D
"
"
FRONT
SI
"
"
"
'"
CO 23 (28, 32, 37) sts at the end of the next 2 rows-63 (73,
81,91)
,. "
"
"
17 Sts.
"
"
"
"" ""
--_36"
- ""
"
"
A
B
SIS.
- c
\Vork even in
SI 51
for I".
THE SliP
SUSPENDERS (m'ke 4)
61 (7 1,79,89) '''.
Work even umit Front measures 9 (9 Yz, 10 VI, 11)" from base
of bra ( nol from start of center fronl tab).
Shape Leg Opf!rlings: 130 9 ( 12, 11, 14) SIS al beginning of nexi
Using MC and with HS facing, pick up and knit 3 StS for every
4 rows along left leg opening. \'\lorking in Garter st. knit 3
rows. BO. Hepeat for right leg band.
Assemble Bra: Using yarn needle and CC, sew back bands
Work even until Front measures 7 (I, 7 Yl, 7 Yl) " from first legopening 130. BO.
as shown in step I.
Sew back bands to top of body as shown in step 2.
Using steam iron, fuse interfacing to backs of bOllom ,md top
BACK
Using t>.-1C and CC held together, CO 63 (73, 81, 91) Sts.
cups. Trim away all excess interfacing. \'(Iith right sides facin
machine-sew l.x)[tom edge of lOp cup
10
Yz, 6, 6 Yz)".
leaving a
10
sew channeling across tab and around right cup. Leave ends of
61 (71,79,89) '''.
channelingopen.
IINIT
thread strap through garter grip, and secure end of strap under
slide with sewing needle and thread (see Special Techniques-Suspender Assembly). Sew suspenders onto legs, 2" from side
seam in back and 3" from side seam in front.
Cut hook-and-eye tape to size and sew
OntO
crotch.
Add Tulle and Rosettes: Cut tune into 2 strips 2 Yz" wide and
45" long. Fold each strip in half and pleat, basting widlneed le
and thread. Sew ruffling to upper edge of bra cup.
Sew ribbon rosettes at cente r front and at straps, as ShOWIl.
FI N IS H I N G
STEP 1
STEP 2
STEP 3
STEP 4
STEP 5
WRO NG SID! Of f~ e ft l C
THE SLIP
THE CORSET
Few garments give the phrase "beauty must suffer" as much meaning as the corset. For
the past 350 ye.lrs, a tiny waist and full round hips have come
\0
and fertility and, as an extension of those, desirability. The drive for a woman to maintain
this youthful sh'lpe has kept the corser in the spodigllt, though in ever kinder, gentler, and
sexier forms-bustiers, girdles, corselettes, and merry widows all stem from the corsc\.
Corsetry reached ils zenith in the 16th cCiliury widl Catherine de Medici, wife of
Henry 11 , who proclaimed the ideal wa ist circumference to be thirteen inches. This was
al:bit:ved with a garmem called the iron maiden, literally fashioned from metal panels that
gave it Ihe appearance of battle armor. Worn over a tigh!ly laced fabric undergarmelll,
it compacted the midsection, severely curtailing the wearer's ability to move and causing
faiming, cracked ribs, pierced livers, even death. Corsets were abandoned briefly after the
French Hevolution but returned with a vengeance in the 1800s, during which they became
complicated steel-boned, leOithe r-encased affairs.
The tOrture continued until the early 1900s, when in America, suffragettes rejected
the corset for its symbolic repression, and younger generations found it impossible to
tango whi le corseted. WW I eliminated the corset for good as women joined the workforce
in unprecedented numbers, taking jobs that required flexibility and stamina. The \Var
Industries Board issued a call for women 10 StOP buying metal-boned corsets, saving 28,000
tons of metal in 1917-enough to build tWO battleships.
Modified versions of the corse: have gone in and
OUI
century. The corselette, a relatively comfortable combination of corset and bra, became the
found<ltion of Christian DioT'S New Look of the late 19405 and 19;05. Dior's corselettes
became so fancy that they were worn as evening wear, a trend that was revived in the 1980s
by designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood and rockers like ~Iadonna
and Cyndi Lauper.
All of the corsets in this chapter are also meant to be seen,
bUI
a time when its appearance on the sneet would have created a sc;mdal. While a knitted
version of the co rset may nOltake cO:1trol of the body in the way its ancestors did, the look
is still pretty, feminine, <md, yes, sexy.
;-
~.;
-:.;:-;-
----:
.-- .
.;.
-;;;-, ..--.:.
'-
'.-:.'
:-.
."
.-
-.-'
-.
-.
...
."
BASIC CORSET
As y ou might expect, a knitted corset doesn't have the kind of constricting power it would take to whittle
a thirteen-inch waist- thank goodness. H owever, knitted corsets offer other benefits- including gentle
shaping and feminine details- that make them wonderful to wear.
My version of the Basic Corset is worked in a cOllon/elastic blend yarn with verticaL lines and shortrow insets knit in a prelty ribbon yarn, providing contrast and curvy shaping. Many of the 19th-century
corset styles were based on this structure: a lubular shape with pie-shaped wedges offabric inset where the
body was the fulLest- the hips alld breasts. inside, channeling is hand-sewn to sections of the front, into
w/lich pLastic boning is inserted for structure-a much more forgiving option than the steel boning of old~
which forced a woman to stand and sit with arrow-straight posture.
Wear this over bare skin, as we've shown here, or hook it over a white shirt or tee i'lStead of a vest for
a fingerie -as-outerwear twist and a great way to show off some curves.
SIZES
NEEDLES
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Safety pins
Yarn needle
YARN
I'INI'HING
INCH,
ST'
STITCH PATTERNS
Busl Dart
Rows I and 25 CRS): K3, wrp-I (see Special TechniquesShon Row Shaping).
Row 2 and all other even-numbered rows through How 26: Purl.
BACK
Dccrea~e
Hip Dart
Row I and all other odd-numbered rows through Row 11
(RS): Knit.
OIRfCTION Of KNITTING
RIG HT SIDE
SIS.
Sl.
BONING
\... CASING
fOR
(of)
'j
IE
STVLE
flASTIC
BONING
St,
then change to CC
\lISHING
Using smaller needles and MC, pick up and knit 3 SIS for every
4 rows along lower edge of corset. Knit I row. Change to CC
and knit 2 rows. Change 10 MC, knit 1 row, then BO. Repeat
at top edge of corset.
Using yarn needle and MC, embroider a row of V's (see Special
Techniques---Casing for Elastic) between safety pins at upper
Yz,
THE CORSET
('
61
:.J
CORSET-BODICE NIGHTGOWN
What could be sweeter to sleep in than a hand-stitched nightie? Loosely knit out of a linen yam and sewn
to a fabric skirt, my version is soft, coo! on summer nights, and very romantic.
SimpLe-to-work lace decorates the off-the-shoulder sleeves and hip, and vertical fadder-slitclz columns
recall the boned ribbing of the corset, hut with Ilone of the constriction. It is shown here over a flauncy
petticoat for stiLL more girfy appeaL. Alternatively, leave the skirt off completely for a lacy top to layer over
a lank and jeans.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
Steam iron
Sewing pins
I Y: yards 1/." elastic
Sewing needle and thread
NEEDLES
GAUGE
YARN
(St
51)
rHE CORSE
BACK
SI
CO 16 Sts. Work chari B 17 ( 17, 17, 18, 18, 18, 19, 19) limes. 80.
for I",
CO 16 Sts. Work chari 8 18 ( 18, 18, 19, 19, 19,20.20) limes. BO.
SIS.
Increase I SI <It each end of needle every 6 rows 4 times71 (77,83,89,95,101,107, 113) SIS.
Work even until Back measures 13 (13, 13 Yz, 14, 14, 14 Yz, 15, 15)".
following
twO
every other row I (3,2, 1,3,3,3,4) times-57 (57, 57, 65, 65,
69,69,73) SiS remain.
Work even ullIil armholes measure 2 (2, 3, 3, 3 Yz, 3 Yz, 4, 4)". 13 0.
FRONT
shown in step I.
Sew rig ht sides IOgether at side seams as shown in step 2. Press
side seams open.
Pleat skin as shown in step 3. pinning each pleat in place. Try
skirl on dress form or the intended recipient, pinning top of
skirt to fit waist area closely.
Asst.mhle Dress: Put bodice on over skin, and smooth down
..:
(,~
KNITTING
INGfRlf STVLE
CHART A
. ..
~
~
,
" "
<1\
<1\
,
."
, 0'
1-.1-1+--1-
.0
,
.." . .
" " " "
<1\
<1\
~
;;
iii
0;
.'
I"'"
.'
..j ~.-I-
o:;J t
..
" O~
j",
' .0 0,",
"
'0
.,'
,
"
'"
"
. . .., . .." . . .
;;
0;
0;
0;
0;
0;
0;
0;
0;
.LOl LiBJ
~ .L ~.L~ J Ol~ .LL
Ol
Ol
III
CHART B
KN IT ON RS , PU RL ON WS
I2l
YO
K2TOG
,..
FINISHING
STEP I
~ SSK
~ CAST ON I ST
BIN D Off I ST
SKIRT - CUT 2
4"
.. ,,
\:
".
STE P 2
12 Y. (12 Y., 12 X.
14 ~.
SK IRT
FRONT AND BACK
-- --- CU T
SEW
o RS Of fABRIC
[] WS Of fABRIC
BACK
fRONT
CHEST AN D HIP
'~,
25)"
WA IST
SKIRT
tHE CORSET
net for shaping, reputedly prompting Turner herself to comment, <CTlle merry widow was designed by a man.
A woman would never do that
to
My merry-wIdow- inspired shell is infinitely more comfortable but still as shapely, thanks to interior
darts, gentle side shaping, and a flauering mock caMe and leaf pattern that winds its way from LOp
to
bOltom on bOlh sides. The boning of lhe 19505 merry widow was encased In channeltng d,al was held in place
hy stitching visihle from the outside of the garment, a subtle detail that emphasi1..ed a woman's curves.
While sleeve straps eliminate the need for boning in my version, rYe duplicated tllis subtle detail with
traveling cables.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
GAUGE
YARN
NOTES
BACK
symbol.
Shaping at selvedges is shown via outlines o nl y. Increase
multiple stitches by casting o n at the end of a row. Decrease
muh iple slitches by binding off at the beginning of a row.
Increase or decrease by a single stilch al the beginning o r end
CHEST
H"
of a righl.side row.
E:lch embossed leaf is indicmed on the B<lck lmd Front ch<lrts
bY;1 series of squa res numbered I through 16. Refer to the key
or
to
Seven mock cables are shown. Work all seven for the largesl
t!tree sizes, but only the centcr five for the smalieSI two sizes.
BACK
FRONT
Yz (1 Yz. 2, 3.
FRONT
CO I St.
FIN ISHING
Sew left shoulder seam. Using crochet hook , work one row
of single crochet around neck edge, working 1 sc for every
SI and 3 sc for every 4 rows. Then WIT HOUT T U RN I NG,
Fasten off.
Sew right shoulder seam. Work crocheted edge around
,IS
fo r
to
Aancn
leaf motifs.
/
THE
CO~SET
69
.-"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
~
"
"u
""
""
""
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
,"
"
"
"
"
"
"
",
"
"
"
"
"
[!]
m
m
[!]
[!]
'"
"
,"'"
"
'"
'"
,w
,"
'"
'"
'"
YO, Ill. TO
~' ,VO.~'.VO.Il'
"
"
0lJ
{ill
"
'n
,n
'"",
'"
'"
'"
",,.
"
..
0]] SSK.Kl,K2Toe
Ull
Oil
, ,, ,"
", , ,, ,"
", ", ",, ,, ,, ,"
, ",, A,, ,,, ,, ,, ,,, ,,, ,,'"
, , , 0, 0, , ,
,, ,' 0, 0, ,,, ,
,' 0, 0, ,
0
, 0
'"
'"'"
[ill
,.
SLIP I. K2TOG,
PASS SlIPP~O 51
Ov[RK2Toa
'"
'"
,
"
"
::
::
::
EMBOSSE D LEAf
,
"
,
:~
,.:::,
:
,
,
,
,,
"
ffi!jl
"
.."
.."
"
,"
,
,
,
,
,
I]
E!ilif
,
II
,
,
,
~
"
,,
:
,,
"
"
""
91
..
..",
..
:,
..,""
,
,
,
,
,
",
,
11
"
I-
11
'.
"
-..
"
...
"
"
,"
,
,
",
,,
,.
,
,
"
,
,
II
",
""
",
"
l'l!I+
,"
,"
"
"
"
"
",
,.,.".'"
,.
,,
'I'tihl'
,
'"
,
,
,,
,
,,,
fRONT
ffi!jl
,"
::
I"
,
"
"
II
,
'f
THE CORSET
71
concepts of rigidity, self-discipline, and conformity. Nothing could he further from the purpose of this
sultry corset-inspired set. Worked in a buttery-soft Tencel/alpaca yarn in a fiery red, it is anything but
puritanical.
The typical hustier covers the torso from dle natural waist LO tlr.e bust. it mayor may not have
underwiring, but it does feature boning and is usually strapless with a bare hack. In this version, j've added
straps for SUppOrl, but the body-baring qualities are left quite intact. The slanting caMes in this ensemble
nip the waistline and add a vertical line, and flirty feather trim highlights feminine assets. Clever interior
shaping hrings cables to a V-shaped point at the IOHler front, quite reminiscent of 1950s corseleues. Add a
pair of matching long fingerless gloves, and you're ready to go.
SIZES
NEEDLES
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
bicep
Bustier shown fits 33" chest
Stitch markers
Cable needle
Yarn needle
YARN
GAUGE
KNITTING LINOfRlf
Ylt
BUSTIER FRO NT
r-" ,.-' . ,.-'
21
r-'"
"I'
t
,.-' ,.-' .
r-"
r-" ,.-'
r-'
" C+=-:-:=::-=:-:=-::3r~~_f=fZt=:_:::~0:=:::
0 ~~
16
VVV
14
"..J
I..--"
10
l~ v v~ :
.'0 00
8 1~ vv ~ :
r-'"
Ivvvv
4 I~ uu ~
"
N
N"
Oi
Oi
L z ..l
~~ VV
VVVV
r-" : .
VVU
I;
,.-' ,.-' .
~ V V~ :
r-'
II
0'
. v vvul
0
',
. vvv ul
oo
~~::::<,::,~oH"U"Ui.!~11 ;
"
[!]
PURL ON RS. KN IT ON WS
Jo....v-J
U2J
I~
Iil
CAST ON 1 ST
NO STITCH
9 (11,13)"
'"
~
S-
e::
~
BUST IER
BUSTIER
FRONT
BACK
GLOVE
12"
13 ( 13, 17)"
L J
I >?" ...-<: !
SI
11
I'
STI"CH PATTERNS
fiNISHING
R fRONT
cables.
Using yarn needle and yarn. sew Front to Back at side seams.
Row 3 (RS): Work across 6 SIS, pm, with lip of HII needle li ft
strand between needles, (p 1, k I, pi ) into strand, pm, work
across 6 Sis, CO 4 sls-19 SIS.
Continue to work according to chari, using cabled
co method
work tocncl.
Continue 10 work according to chan until center panel
contains 2; (271 29) SIS between markers.
GLOVES ( make 2)
S/uzpt Front Ntck and Straps: Next RS row: PI, work across
,ACK
CO 98 (106, 114)",.
fiNISHING
WAIST-CINCHER TOP
The waist cincher, or uwaspie," was still another modified corset/ike garmelll popular in the late 1950s,
helpful in achieving the wasp waist 0/ Dior's New Look. It was essentially a wide, elastici{ed, and boned
belt that cinched the midriff, waisl, and upper hips, often with garters to hold up stockings.
/'ve taken the detailing of the waspie and applied it to my Waist-Cinclzer Top, adding a bodice and
sleeves to a slimming midriff section. Ladder stitching keeps the eye moving up and down the waist and is
repeated in tile sleeves, while the deep surp lice bodice adds more figure flallery.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NEEDLES
hem
Stitch marker
Stitch holder
Yarn needle
GAUGE
STITCH PATTERN
Laa Pauern
(multiple of 9 sts
Row I (RS): 'K4, k2tog, yo, kl, yo, ssk, repeat from , end k4.
row~2
Row 2: Purl.
Continuing in SI
Using CC and larger needles, co 76 (85, 94, \03, 112, 121) SIS.
Using
at beginning of next
5[5.
BACK
SIS
until Back
[Using
twO
SIS
SI
Panern] 3 limes.
51,
Change
10
FRONT
g-5T REPEAT
IZl
K2TOG
I2J
YO
[2;J
SSK
13(14,15,16, 17,18)"
G:-
e-
:;!
.;
,0
N
':!I
~
:;!
X
FRONT
to:
'"
N
:;!
::l
"-
BACK
''""
'"
,0
'"
0
00
'"
~
'"
"''""
0-
SLEEVE
0'
:i
eo
'"
~
--
1,
6) times, then every other row 10 (II, 10, 10, 11 ,9) times-15
BO remaining sts.
as for Back.
FINI S HING
SLEEVES (m'kc 2)
Using CC and larger needles, CO 49 (49, 49, 58, 58, 58) sts and
work as for Back until Sleeve measures 4" from beginning.
Increase I St at each end of needle every 6 (6, 6, 6, 4, 4) rows 3
(5,6,4,7,9) times-55 (59, 61, 66, 72, 76) sts.
Continu ing in Lace Pattern , work even until Sleeve measures
I \
'" ::
..........
............
Sparkly lame in the wool/silk blendyarn twinkles with glamour day or night. Layer this sleek sweater over
a tank or wear it over bare skin.
SIZES
NEEDLES
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
{Ohern
Yarn need le
YARN
GAUGE
THE CORSET
81
:.;
12
II
10
9
8
7
6
SLEEVE
,,;
,;
!::
~.
,.:
":e
45T REPEAT
BACK
CO 78 (86, 94,102,110,118) sts.
Working I selvedge st at each end of needle, work center 76
(84,92,100,108, 116) StS in Interrupted Hib Pattern.
\Vork through row 12 of pattern 2 times, then work in k2, p2
ri b until Uack measures 6 Yl (7, 7 112, 8, 8 Yl, 9) " from beginning.
NOTES
Keep first and last SI of each row (the selvedge sts) in Swckincne
working new sts into k2, p2 rib--86 (94, 102, 110, 118, 126) Sts.
STITCH PATTERN
end k I.
To work k2, p2 rib after Interrupted Rib, k al1 k 515 and p all p SLS.
('
82
WS row.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: PI, kl, p2; repeat from "- to last 3
Sl S,
68 (76, 78, 84, 90, 96) sts remain . Work even until armholes
measure 7 V2 (7~, 8, 8, 8 '12, 8 Yl) " .
7V.(S,SY.,9'1.,!O,]0 Y.)"
LEFT FRONT
"':d
00
00
I- oo
~
~
SLEEVES (make 2)
"'to
~
~"
BACK
'"
''""
S
~
N
N
"
~
FRONT
'"
,0
""
"
~"
"
17 ~,
RIG HT FRON T
FINISHING
as Back to armhole.
Work I row of single crochet aro und front edges and back
neck , making 5 loops of chain 5 crochet on each front edge
evenly spaced between boltom of neckline at center front and
top of pattern stitch near bottom front.
Work I-cord (see Special Techniques) for 45" or to desired length.
Lace I-cord through crocheted loops in a criss-cross
configuration as shown in photo. Sew beads [Q end of I-cord .
THE CORSET
I..'
S3
:J
THE CAMISOLE
The camisole holds a cen tral spot in tOday's fashion parade) frequently peeking OUI from
between the lapels of a blazer or cillling for attention atop a pair of jeans, but it was
10
wear from the body inside. It was particularly importan t in 15th~ce mury Europe, when
outer garments for the upper class were made of very expensive fabrics, and bathing was
Or
chemise between the breasts in an attempt to mask body odors, a custom often remembered
on modern lingerie with tiny ribbon roses sewn in the space between the bosoms.
The VictOrian era and its new emphasis on cleanliness led
to
.j
.~:
...; " - t
..
:::'
BASIC CAMISOLE
Hand-knitting is ideal for today's camisole. The shape is simple, usually achieved by creating two gently
curved rectangles for a front and back, and fends itself easily to styling details like lace insets or trim or
appliqued flowers. Sleeve shaping is simple, ranging from spaghetti straps to more substantiaL tank-style
straps to cap sleeves. Because of its small size, a camisole doesn't require a lot of yarn, so is often a sensible
This raw silk camisole is reminiscent of the knitted vests worn under cLOl/ling for warmth during
Victorian times. It features a simple but decorative rib stitch and a contrasting face collar that is knit
separately and sewn Oil. Here, the camisole is s/wwn with a blouse underneath. It would look equally good
on its own or peeking out from under a jacket.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
13 ( 13, 13 Yz, 14, 14, 14 Yz, IS, 15) " lengt h to a rmhole
YARN
(4 mm) needl es
STITCH PATTERNS
BACK
Wide Rib
Lace. Pattern
Yz,
14, 14, 14
Yz,
IS,
15)" ,
Row 2: Purl.
4W' .
Change to size US 4 (35 rom) needles and BO all
14 ~,
SIS
firmly.
''""
00
'"
00
00"
-,
OJ;
"
"
'--
oC
'""
'""
BACK
.:
:
"
"
to.
,,"
(,;FRONT
"'
~
"
oJ!
'"..;
'"
'"
'"
..;
~
..
."
"
'"
'"!O
,,'
~.
of'
FRONT
FINISHING
Work as for Back until last armhole decreases have been made.
Continuing in Wide Rib, work even for I "; end ready to work
a RS row.
Shape Neck: With RS facing, work across 28 (28, 28, 32, 32,
34,34,36) sts, BO 1 St, work to end- 2S (28, 28, 32, 32, 34, 34,
up and knit
with elastic thread and work 4 rows of running stitch W' apart
around inside of waist area. Secure ends.
co
125T REPEAT
[Q)
YO
~
!Zl
18
K2TOG
SSK
TI1
CAMISOl
of needlework.. The particular garment that inspired this lace tee had vertical panels of drawn tlzreadwork
running up and down the body, and thickly embroidered floral cUlwork at the lum and sleeves.
To mimic the original patterning without needing to work different types of needLework, / chose two
difJerent lace stitches. A floral lace paltern trims the hem, sleeves, and flattering square neck, and the
FINISHE D MEASUREMENT S
NOTIONS
20 (2 1
Stitch markers
~,
Yarn needle
YARN
GAUGE
larger needles
NEEDLE S
THE CAMISOLE
...
91
ST ITC H PATTERN S
BACK
Stitch pattern A
by Barbara G. \,\falker)
Row 2: K3, ~yo, k2, ssk, k2tOg, k2, yo, k I; repeat from ' ,
end kl.
waist area even in sti tch pattern B for I Yz ", then change back
Row 4: K2, 'YO, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k I; repeat from',
to
end k2.
larger needles.
Stitch pattern B
(multi pl e of 9 sts
SIS
at beginning of next 2
How I ( R5) : "K4, k2tog, yo, k I, yo, ssk; repeat from ' , end k4.
How 2: Purl.
6Yz, 7, 7Yz,8)".
12~
CHART A
(13Y.i,
c--f-_ _ _-1c--
Q-ST REPEAT
CHART B
BACK AND FRONT
L
o
9-5 T REPEAT
SLEEVE
IQ] YO
81
K2TOG
llil
SSK
Shape Neck: Work 10 (II. II, 13. 16, 15) Sts. BO next 31 (32,
31,32,31.40) stS, work to end-
each shoulder.
FI NI SH IN G
Steam-block all pieces well
\0
at garment edges.
FRON T
Work as for Back until Front measures 13 (13,14
SLEEVES (m'ke 2)
Using larger needles, CO 49 (49, 58, 58, 67, 67) SIS loosely.
Work in stitch pattern A for I (I, I Yl, 2, 2, 3) ".
Change to stilch pattern B and work 2 rows.
Continuing in stitch pattern B, BO 4 (S. 7, 8, 9,10) SIS at
beginning of next 2 rows and 3 (4, 6, 7,8,8) Sts al beginning
of following 2 rows.
Decrease I st at each end of needle every 4 rows S (7, 7, 9,
THE CAMISOLE
"
93
:.J
RUCHED CAMISOLE
This sheer camisole with ruched sides is mealtt to be worn as outerwear, but
to preserve the wearer's modesty.
If you're daring,
mohair and silk create the sheer, soft fabric for this very modern camisole, but the ribbon rose at the center
front is a reminder of the camisole's past- a time when blooms, ralher than balhs, were depended
keep the wearer fresh .
SIZES
NEED L ES
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
YARN
GAUGE
Oil
to
BACK
CO 46 (52, 58, 64) sts loosely.
Wo rk even in 5t St for 2".
Decrease I st at each end of needle every 4 rows 3 times40 (46, 52, 58) sts. Pm to indicate waist.
\'\fork even for 2".
BACK
Increase I St al each end of needle every 6 rows 3 times46 (52, 58, 64) sts.
CHEST AND HIP
15 %(17%.19% ,2 1%)"
13 0 loosely.
WAIST
13%(15%,17'1.,19'1.)"
FRONTS (make 2)
130 loosely.
FRONTS
FINISHING
STRAPS (m'ke 2)
Crochet 16 (16,18,18)" of chain. Hde in 3rd ch from hook
and each ch across, turn. Ch2, helc in each hdc across, turn .
Fasten off.
Sew to front points. Sew to top of Back, spaced approximately
5" apart.
THE CAMISOLE
<.!
97
.J
where it embellishes a simple, welL-shaped tank. J like to think of it as ajuxtaposition of the lowly muslin
chemise from whicll the camisole evolved and a festive corsage.
The flowers, which are crocheted, are stitched on to the camisole here, but they can also be pinned Oil
usingjewelry pin backs and then transferred to a hat, jacket, or other garment as desired.
fiNISHED MEASUREMENTS
NEEDLES
natural waist)
NOTIONS
YARN
Yarn needle
Knit One, Crochet Too Italian Ice (6\ %cotlon /
GAUGE
(St st)
THE CAMISOLE
BACK
~,
13 X, 14 ~, 15-X,
St S
at beginning of
8~,
SIS
in each shoulder.
FRONT
10
IOU
Cl
11
FLOWER
Rnd 1 : Using 13, loosely eh 2, work 5 se into 1st eh, join with sl
'"
":i
00
00
:i
eh from hook, hde in next eh, se in next ch, 51st into next front
00
'"
'"
60'
'"
WAIST
",p
14 Y.. ( 16 X, 19,20 Yo, 1211,,24 Yo, 26 \1,;)"
Sl
join
10
1st se of this
Hnd.
3,4) times AN D AT SAl\'l E Tlr-.IE, decrease! 51 at each neck
Fasten off.
edge every other row 17 (20, 22, 22, 23, 25, 26) times- 8 (8, 9,
underarm bind-off.
BO.
fLOWER 12
Work as for Flower # I, using C for Rnds 1-2, 0 for rnds 3-4,
and C for rnds 5-6.
FINISHING
Press From and Back lightly.
LE AVES (make 3)
Using crochet hook and A, eh 12, sc in 2nd chain from hook,
fasten off.
10
shoulder of tank.
THE CAMISOLE
l'
101
!;
rage and a perky, high bosom was most desirable. Back then, women achieved this lifted loole by lacing or
wrapping a m uslin sling under their breasts before they put their dresses
011 .
Here I've wrapped the bodice of this sille/linen camisole in a way chat garners similarly felching
results- but is as beautiful as it is functional. The visible bust darts, surplice shaping, and ribboll facing offer
form as well as eye-catching detail, and a sheer lace stitch at lite bOllom adds a slimming, .fliny touch .
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Stilch markers
al
chest
YARN
GAUGE
NEEDLES
One pair straight need les size US 7 (4.5 mm)
One pair straiglu needles size US 6 (4 mm)
Change needle size if neccss;!ry to obl;!in correct gauge.
(St
SI)
NOTES
from the bottom up, then stitches are picked up fro m the lower
edge of the bodices and the lace bonum is knit from the lOp
down.
ST ITC H PATTERN
Lace Palte.rn
( multiple of 6 Sts
times.
Work even until bod ice measures same as Back at armhole.
Sk lpe shoulder as for Back.
BACK
SIS
10
TI~IE
shape neck as
Continuing in St
51,
3) lim es.
lINGfRI~
FINISHING
IINITTING
SA~ I E TI~ I
STYLE
E shape neck
"- R
'"
~
- "
..:
d
13 ~ ,
zo
oz
.i=i=
ue
.z
- <
O.
0
14, 15 ~) "
zo
Q~
BACK
ee
ue
z
'<
FRONT
KNtT ON RS . PURL ON WS
GJ
PURL ON RS . KNIT ON WS
[Q]
YO
12.1
K3TOG
o.
0
"
TH CAMISOl
straps peeking Oill from under the shoulders of a sheer beaded fro ck. Sille lingerie was almost commonplace
then, and the richer and more embellished, the beuer. The sifhoueue of this piece is simple- with a scoop
neck, close shaping, and empire waist detail- but it doesn 't lack for richness; the yarn is lustrous sille and
the straps are made from strands of genuine freshwate r pearls.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Stitch holder
Yarn needle
Two 16" strands of large freshwater pearls dyed to match
yarn.
YARN
GAUGE
NEEDLES
to
THE CAMISOLE
BACK
Using smaller needles, co S4 (62, 70, 78, 86) SIS.
\'\fork in Garter SI for 3 rows.
Decrease I St
,It
BACK
WAIST
""
beginning.
Work in Hevcrsc 51
51
for 1 rows.
15(17,19,21,23)"
Work even unlil Back measures 12 Y.r: (13,13 Y.r:, 14, 14 Yz)"
from beginning.
Place SIS on holder.
FRONT
fRONT
WAIST
""
~~)"
Shape Ned:
Next RS row: K10 (24, 26, 28, 31) sts, 13010 ( 10,12,14,14)
Sts, knit to end- 20 (24, 26, 28, 31) SIS in each front.
lOX
FI NISHING
THE
CAMISOLf
THE STOCK NG
Stockings have long se rved a functional purpose by covering the fOO l and leg for warmth,
bu t only rcccmly have they gained p restige as a fashion accessory. Thei r long, impressive
h istory begins with the sock, the earliest knowil example of which dales b:lck morc than
3,000 years. It was du ring the fOllrth through ten th centuries, in Europe's colder climates,
that socks evolved into long stockings, which were kn itted in a tubular shape o r sewn
from bias-cut woven fabric, and tied or laced althe lOp. In England in 1589, the Hcvcrend
Willia m Lee invented a machine that cou ld produce stockings easily and quickly, but
OUI
on special occasions when a bit of sex appeal is ca lled for. All of the socks and
stockings I've designed here are knit from the toe up, a technique that I like because 1 can
tryon and :tdjusl the hi at any point in the process. I've also enjoyed working these pieces
in an amlY of modern and luxury fibers. \Vhat could be more indu lgent than an over-theknee slockmg in cashmere or a summer sock in an alpaca/silk blend? A soy-blend yarn
gives
it
10
BASIC STOCKINGS
The structure of a stocking consists of a toe, a fool, a heel, and a shaft (or leg). The shajl is not usually
shaped in shorzer socks, but to achieve a good fit for stockings or tali socks, some shaping is required. I've
done this in the B asic Stocking with a series of increases that follow the contour of the leg.
I am quite partia/to the peasant-style heel and toe, in which both afe worked exactly the same in a
modified short-row configuration. flike the smooth, tailored result. I've finished this stocking with rib6ing
altAe top as welL as eyelets with a ribbon lie, hUl for even more Slay-up power (and this is true with airy of
the stockings in this chapter), elastic thread may be woven invisibly on the inside of the ribbing. Luxurious
cashmere yarn, a lovely leaflace border, and rich velvet rihhon make these romalLlic stockings anything
hut hasic.
SIZES
NOTIONS
\'\Taste yarn
Stitch marker
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
1Yz yards
Elastic thread
Yarn needle
YARN
GAUGE
NEEDLES
KNIT
liN
to
. . .. . . . . V
OX . . ;.<oox V ,
'(0
V
'(0
9 V
'(0
7 V
'(0
; V
'(0
3 V
'(0
V
II
12
to
OX
00
O X 00
OX 00
00
oxo 0
OX -
V
;.(oox
V
xoox
V
xoox
;.(00:.<
G
!YJ
[Q]
YO
Gil
IRl
B
SIND OF f ' 5T
How 12:
NO STI TCH
II ..
'~
TOE
LEG
yarn, CO 26 SIS.
Using main yarn and working back and forth on two needles,
LACE EDGING
Row 3: Purl.
CO 10 sts.
tOC.
BO.
F'NISHING
OOT
Seam lace edging into a circle. Slip over lOp of stocking and
until
fOOl
SIS
S1
in the rnel
length.
twO
size.
THE ,TOO(ING
11:;
blend of alpaca~ silfe, and cashmere, which creates a soft Layer to hug delicate
lOes.
The
face
pattern is a
simple two-row repeal worked from the boltom up, organically creating a pretty scalloped border at the top.
f like to wear dlem
witll sandals or mules during warm weatlzer--a prelty surprise under a flowing skirt or
soft pants.
SIZES
NEEDLES
Waste yarn
Stitch marker
GAUGE
..:
116
STITCH PATTERN
TOE
Lace Pattern
yarn, CO 26 sts.
Rnd I: Knit.
twO
needles,
I l"l>fl 11 11 11'<1'<1I;
I
13.ST REPEAT
Row 3: Pur\.
Row 4: Pick up and knit 1 st from first half of toe, knit to end,
pick up and knit I st from first half of lOe.
Re peat Rows 3 and 4 until there are 26 sts on needles.
KNIT
[Q]
'0
0
bJ
K2TOG
SSK
FOOT
desired length.
HEEL
\\forking heel back and forth o n twO needles and next 26 sts,
repeat inStrUClions for we (omitting prov isional cast on).
LEG
top of heel.
Work 4 rows of Garter st. BO.
THE STOCKING
119
tillS seam by embroidering over and around it, thereby turning a "defeCl" into an Quraclive embellishment.
During the 16th and 17th. centuries, clock faces were the most popular motifs for this purpose, so much so that
even when a difJerelll mOlif was used to hide tile seam, such as flowers or fans, it was stiLi called a clock.
These stockings feature a panel of traditional feather-and-fan stitch down the !roms and backs, and
a pretty embroidered feather and fan at lile ankle where clocks originally appeared. Not only is this stitch
pretty, but it's
all
authentic motif. Fans were, after aLL, an accOuterment of Lady's auire once llsed for
flirting witlz. and auracting men. And feather quiLL pells were used to write secret Love notes to the object of
one's affection.
SIZES
NEEDLES
fiNISH ED MEASUREMENTS
(3.25 mm)
NOTIONS
Waste yarn
Stitch markers
Tailor's chalk
YARN
Yarn needle
22
..:
~I
YL
STITCH PATTERN
TOE
( panel of II
St5;
twO
needles, work
Rnd 2: Knit.
kklol
L
KNIT
Row 3: Purl.
lOe,
knit
10
end,
IQ] '0
161
K2TOG
18
SSK
SIS
on needles.
FOOT
SIS
HEEL
SIS;
LEG
F;Ul
back of leg, and knit remaining SIS, uIHilleg measures 4" from
top of heel.
"
11.'
KNITTINl3l1NGflU! STYlE
SIS on
[0
10
~I I ,
work to end of
needles.
10
'INISHING
10
H1~
STOCK'NG
My fishnets are worked in a worsted-weight yam and a traditional diamond-shaped mesh pattem. I'ye
handled the shaping in the shaft of this stocking a bit dtfferently from the others in this dapter. By switching
to a larger needle at the point of the calf rather than adding stitches, the circumference is enlarged without
SIZES
NEEDLES
(3.25 mm)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
(4 mm)
Change needle size if necessary
to
YARN
NOTIONS
\Vaste yarn
#533 avocado
GAUGE
HEEL
Mesll Stitch
\~lork
SIS for heel as follows: [K2, MI, k 116 times-24 stS in heel.
Working back and forth on twO needles and 24 heel SIS, repeat
nnd 2: Knit.
LEG
SIS.
Using main yarn and working back and forth on two needles,
Mesh
SI,
Row 2: K I, ssk, k to
laSI
needles.
3 SIS, kZtog, k I.
SI S on
Inc.
\Vork second
Row 3: Purl.
I\ow 4: Pick up and knit I
51
lOe,
knit
10
end,
OOT
SIS
to necdles-48 sts
SI
,I knit round .
HE
STOCKING
...
!2~
:.>
SIZES
NEEDLES
10 obtain
correct gauge.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
1~ yards I" elastic
YARN
4 !hIt slides
THE STOCKING
\,;
129
:)
PANTY
SUSPENDERS (make 4)
Work even in SI
Sf
for 2 rows.
LEG BANDS
Using Me and with
Change to
as shown in photo.
13 0.
WAISTBAND
Using
SIS
BACK
25 (30, 35) sts across front of panty, CO 25 (30, 35) sls -114
(134, 154)sts.
Knit I row.
Change to CC and knit 2 rows.
Change to r.,IC and work in SI
Sl
for 4 rows.
row. BO.
5(6,7)"
130
:.>
LOUNGE /
N GHT WEAR
ThroughoUl this book, I've focused on specific categories of lingerie- lhe bra, the
slOcking. the corset, and so on. However, countless OIher forms of lingerie ex ist that
defy calcgorization, each with its own purpose and history. Loosely collected under the
categories of loungewear and nighrwear, all of the pieces featured here werc originally
The R:lcerback Tank and Leggings wl111 Mesh Sides have come a long way from
antique swim wear and a m,m's union suit, respectively, to become the comfortable, versatile
layering pieces they arc here. The Basic Baby Doll is a piece of nighrwear that, laye red over
a tank top, could work just as well in public as in private. The Bed Jacket, once designed
to cover a bed-ridden woman modestly when visitors were received, is now a romantic
cardigan that begs to be worn out. The Arm Warmers remind us that though our ancestors
had to deal with less comfortable condi tions than we do today, they were innovative and
clever and enjoyed a great sense of style.
~
" I," '."
."
"
,/,
,
"I'
"
' /
"
0",
"I.
..
'1
'/",
"
, ,,,"
-:' '"
III.
l;
.I
r 1, 1
II
it was transformed inlO a provocative garment for women when stariet CaroLL Balcer wore one in
the notorious 1956 movie Baby Doll, based on a Tennessee Williams screenplay.
This lacy baby doll, luxurious but a little notorious as well, is knit in a pure siLk yarn and comes
complete with a matching thong panty.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NEEDLES
10 elastic
insertion
Yarn needle
2~,
2 X, 3, 3) yards
I<NITTINeI
INGfRIE ':>1
r "'
~' h.
NOTES
BABY DOLL
The baby doll is knit in multiple directions: Ihe back and frollt
bo<lices arc knit from the bottom up, then stitches are picked
BACK
up from the lower edge of the bodices and the lace boltom is
The baby doll and thong panty arc worked fiat , yel circu lar
need les are required to knit the baby doll's lace bottom.
Lace Paltern
Row I eRS): Kl, ' (k2tog) twice, (yo, kl ) 3 times, yo, (ssk)
twice, k I , repeat from ' .
beginning.
Shape ArmhQle and Neck: BO 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 8, 9, II ) sts al
How 2: Purl.
SIS.
L
o
12STREPEAT
KN IT ON RS. PURL ON WS
(Q] Vo
~
g)
K2TOG
~ 55K
FRO NT
Work as for Back until Front measures 2 Yz (2 Yz, 2 'h, 3 Yz, 3 Yl,
4, 4 Yl, 4 Yz)"; end ready to work a RS row.
16 ~ (18, 19,20%,22,24,26, 27%r
Shape Bust: Fo r cup sizes C and larger, shape bust with shan
rows as fo llows:
(::~-
Row
..
'""',,;"
i- ,
'"
~
,,'
~
..
~
-i
"z
~
to
z
<
10
Continue working add itional sho rt rows, each I Sl sha ner than
INGfRlf '>lYlE
Next 2 rows: Work to end of row, working wraps with the sts
they wrap.
THONG PANTY
FRONT
LOWER BODY
Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows from tOp to bottom
along right edgc of Front, then CO 40 (40, 44, 44, 48, 48, 52,
52) sts for back strap of thong. Work 3 rows in Garter st, then
BO.
Pick up and knit 40 (40, 44, 44, 48, 48, 52, 52) sts along back
strap, then 3 sts for every 4 rows along left edge of Front.
underarm
10
FINISHING
WAISTBAND
Using size US 6 (4 mm) needle, pick up and knit 3 sts for every
\0
FINISHING
NIGHT WEAR
<.:
I 3"
:J
BED JA CKET
During the 18th celllury, both women and men wore their chemises to bed as a sort of nightgown- the
era of removing undergarments at the end of the day or for washing had not y et arrived. The bed jacket
became a popular garment for women because it could be worn over the chemise
in bed (not an uncommon practice at the time) . It could also be worn around the house over a corset
and petticoat, like a modern housecoat, and while engaging in such ladylike tasks as writing feuers or
doing needlework. Early 20th-century bed jackets, also known as "boudoir " or "combing" jackets, were
commonly knitted-sometimes with lots of fancy lace details- and looked very m uch like shawls with a
knitted cuff at either end. They became a common gift for a new mother to wear while she was still in the
hospital, and were sometimes paired with a matching jacket for baby.
The body of tizis bedjacket is worked in Stockinette stitch with set-in sleeves for a smooth, taiLored fit .
The flo unces are knit in a Garter stitch and ey eLet combination with short rows to fit around the curves of
the j acket smoothly and to give the edges some flare.
30 (34
NOTIONS
Yarn needle
underarm
YARN
GAUGE
(St st)
NEEDLE S
e.
STITCH PATTERNS
BACK
Edging Pattern I
(multiple of 4 sts
I; \O-row repeat)
How 10: 'P2, yo, p2tog, repeat from ' to last st, end pl.
Edging Pauern 2
(mult iple of 4 StS
+ 1; JO-row repeat)
Row 2: Knit.
3,3, 4) times-56 (60, 64, 72, 76, 82, 86) sts remain.
Row 3: KZO (20, 24, 24, 24, 29, 29), wrp-t (see Special
Techniques-Short Row Shaping).
Row 4: Knit.
Row 10: 'P2, yo, p2tog, repeat from ' to last st, end pI.
12 ~( IJ'..t
'",.:
~
.-d
e:
:f;!S
~-
'"
SLEEVE
BACK
RIGHT
FRONT
;(6'1.,7'1.,8\1:,9'1,11, 12)"
.c
~.
of;
l~O
:J
y.r
13~1,.,
14'1.)"
LEFT fRONT
CO 8 (13,18,23,28,34,39) Sts.
\Varking in 5t st, increase I St at center front edge every other
row 10 times and AT T HE SA~.I T IME, when side seam
edge measures 1" from begi nning, increase 1 St at side seam
edge every 6 rows 5 times- 23 (28, 33, 38, 43, 49, 54) Sts.
Continuing in St st, work even until Left Front measures same
as Back at side seam.
5) times.
Continuing in 51 st, work even until armhole measures same as
for Back.
Shape SllOu!der; BO remaining 12 (12, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19) sts at
shoulder same as for Back.
RIGHT fRONT
Work same as for Left Front, reversing all shaping.
SLEEVES (m'ke 2)
CO 40 (44, 48, 54, 58, 62, 66) SIS.
Work in 51 Sl for Y2".
Increase I st at each end of needle every 6 rows 5 limes-
SIS
at beginning of next 2
5,6) limes, then every other row 14 (1 1, 10, 12, 10,7,6) times.
BO remaining 12 (14, 14,16,16, 18,18)
SIS.
Row 10.
Change back to Edging Pattern I and work until edging
reaches from point C to point D. BO.
C'141
:J
LOWER EDGING
FINISHING
BO.
BO.
BODICE DIAGRAM
UPPER COLLAR
EDGING
Front, and other half of snap set to edge of Left Front. Pass
button through crochet loop or yo eyelet.
CENTER
BACK NECK
CENTER BACK
WAIST
LOWER
EDGING
o
o
c
142
RS OF FABR IC
WS OF FABRIC
of one-piece fong underwear favored by men who work outside and for hunting, but also worn by women
in cold climates. Originally, in the 1800s, these garments were made of woven flannel, but were later
fashioned of knit jersey. Eventually the union suit was splil up into separate tops and bottoms, and became
known as long johns. Such close-fitting underwear may also have inspired later outerwear fashions, such
as the slim cigarette pants favored by women in the 19505, the stirrup pants of the earfy 1960s, and the
leggings of the 1980s.
For these mesh-sided leggings, J chose an elastici{ed cotton yarn that assures a great fit (with no
worries about baggy knees) and is cool enough to be comfortable, yet warm enough to be corr- The mesh
stitch on the sides is a simple yarnover pattern, but it adds interest and lets a little flesh show through
tastefully.
SIZES
NEEDLES
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
28 Y.z (31, 33, 36 Y.z, 39, 41)" high hip (4"-5" below natural
waist)
29 (31 Y.z) 34, 37, 39 Y.z, 42)" full hip (widest area around
bUllocks)
Stitch markers
Yarn needle
1Y2 yards Y2" elastic
Sewing needle and thread
GAUGE
YARN
STITCH PATTERN
Mesh Pattern
19Y.(21,211h,23,24'1.,251h)"
14 \I.
(15~,
LEFT LEG
20, 22).
Row 4: Knit.
LEFT LEG
SIS
in
Sr st.
SIJape Inseam: Increase I 51 at each end of needle every 6 rows
22 (23, 23, 25, 25, 25) times, then every 4 rows 3 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7)
limes-95 (101,103, III , 117, 123) SIS.
Increase I Sl only at beginning of needle every 4 rows an
additional 4 times-99 (105,1 07,115,121,127) SIS.
Continuing in S, Sl and Mesh Pattern as established, work
even ul11illeg measures 26 (26
9 (9 YI, 9 'I., 10 'I. , II, 1J Yo)"
t'
1 ~6
';
RIGHT LEG
FINISHING
Using yarn needle and yarn, fold Left Leg in half lengthwise
and sew left inseam. Repeat for Right Leg. Sew center seam to
join Left Leg to Right Leg.
Using yarn needle and yarn, embroider a row of V's (see
Special Techniques-Casing for Elastic) on inside of
waistband to make casing for elastic, making sure embroidery
is invisible on outside. Cut elastic to desired length, and thread
through casing. Using sewing needle and thread, secure ends
of elastic.
Press garment liglnly.
147
'J
This racerhack tank wa.. . inspired by the tops of these suits, and it hints at the modern sports bra.
The elastici{ed colton yarn alLeviates aIry worry aboul stretching, and the mesh sides expose just the right
amount of skin to be modest, yet intriguing.
SIZES
NEEDLES
fiNISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
Stitch markers
Yarn needle
YARN
GAUGE
..:
14K
'J
II STYI f
STITCH PATTERN
Mesh Pattern
SIS.
\'\fork even unci! From measures II (12, 13, 14, 15, 16)" (rom
How 2: Purl.
l~ epeiH
beginning.
FRONT
75,81,87) sts.
Decrease I Sl ac each end of needle every othe r row I (I, I, I,
Row 2: Knit.
I ~"
Row 4: Knit.
Shape Neck: \Vork across 15 (17, 17, 19,2 1,23) SIS, 130 21 (23,
10
l:;fl
KNI liNG
16~)"
FRONT
BACK
NGfRIE
YL
FINISHING
rowS limes-l0 (12, 12, 14, 16, 18) SIS in each shoulder.
StS for every 4 rows and I st for every sl around neck opening.
BO.
SIS
Shape Neck: \'\fork across 10 (12, 12, 14, 16, 18) SIS, BO 7 (5,
9,7,5, 5) SIS, work remaining sts-IO (12, 12, 14, 16, 18) sts in
each shou lder.
Attach second ball of yarn. \"lorking both shoulders
simultaneously, work even umil shoulders measure 7 (7 Yz, 8,
151
:.J
ARM WARMERS
For severa! centuries, fine needLework was an essential skill for a girl to auain in order for her to creale an
appealing dowry. It was thought that a woman should put as liule burden for her upkeep as possible Oil her
new husband, and so a good dowry would cOlllain enough linens and dressing items, afL sewn and decorated
by hand, for the first severalyears of marriage. Needless to say, hundreds of hours went into the production
of these items. Fingerless gloves were an important item in the needlework bag, as they would allow a girl
to continue working when
While you may never use these cabled and bobbled silk/wool arm warmers for needlework, you'LL
find them useful as a fanciful accessory and
fiNISHED MEASUREMENTS
NOTIONS
6Yz" long
Cable needle
Yarn needle
9~"
YARN
:;,
'J
mb (make bobble)
(K I, pi, k I, p i , k I, pi , k 1) in next st, pass 2nd, 3rd, 4th , 5th,
6th, and 711l 51 on rigllt.hand needle over 1st 51 and off needle.
"
oj
17
5[
11
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
PURL ON RS . KNIT ON WS
0
0
20
IS
16
J4
IZ
JO
,
6
4
Le, p5 .
[I]
9%"
0..:
1<;4
8"
Mesh Pauem
MESH PATTERN
;;
0'(
LJ
3ST REPEAT
CO 41 sts.
KNIT ON RS . PURL ON WS
[QJ
'0
K2TOG
FINISHING
LOUNGE
NIGHT WEAR
155
CJ
CO (tocastoninitialsts)
CABI
I CORD
Make a loop (using a sli p knot) with the working YilTJ) and
to lefl, pulling yarn (rom lerl to right for the fir<;1 "I; do nOI
right-hand needle i11l0 the sp.. ce between the last 2 Sts on the
turn. Slide the s15 10 opposite end o f needle; repeal from ' until
left-hand needle and draw up a loop; place the loop on the left-
Il old needle with sts in left ktnd, and empty needle in righ t
10
back into fabric ;It f"bric edge, wrap yarn around needle as
hane\. 'I nsert the tip of the right-hand needle into the space
loop; place the loop on the left-hand needle. Repeat from'" for
remaining StS to be CO.
with a few more chains than the number of sts needed; fas ten
end from which you will unravellarer. Turn the chain over.
Using project yitrn and stilrt ing a few chains in from the
10
right side.
f"'SROIOfRY
- - -1-~J.'t
- \
-A--/v\'
---r,
EL AS TIC
SIS
on a spare needle.
CROCHET CHAIN
~l<lkc
a slip knot and place on hook, ' yarn over and draw
Knil every row when working Aat; knil I round, purl I round
when working circularly.
..:
1::;.t;
;IS
directed .
When ready to work the live sts, pull out the separator row,
placing the live StS on a spMe needle.
READING CHARTS
\~' hcn
rows and from left to right for WS rows. N umbers on the right
RIBBING
Allhough rib sti tch patterns use differelll numbers of 5tS, all
are worked in the same way, whether working fl.at or circularly.
The instructions will specify how many StS to knit or purl; the
example below uses k I, pl.
Row I: OK I, PI; repeat from ' ilcross (end k 1 if an odd number
of Sts).
Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl SIS as they face you.
Hepcat How 2 for rib Sf.
SUSPENDER ASSEMBLY
<IS
SLIDE
GARTER GRIP
DO = Bind off.
RH = Right hand.
CC = Contrast color.
rnd(s) = Round(s).
eh = Chain.
RS = Right side.
en
= Double-pointed needle(s).
k:::; Knit.
k2LOg = Knit 2 StS together.
k3wg == Knit 3 sts together.
LH = Left hand.
= Slip marker.
ssk (slip, slip, lenit) = Slip the next 2 SIS to the right-hand
needle one at a time as if to knit; return them back to lefthand needle one <1\ a time in their new orientation; knit them
together through the back loops.
ssp (slip, slip, purl) = Slip the next 2 StS to right.hand needle
onc at a time as if to kni t; return them to the left-hand needle
one al a time in their new orientation; purl them together
through the back loops.
St it ch).
SI(S)
I' = Purl.
Ire
= Place marker.
= Stiteh(es).
into next stitch, yarn over hook and pull up a loop (4 loops on
hook), [yarn over and draw through 2100psJ 3 times.
I~ ow
YARNS
Louet Sales
Berroco, Inc.
www.louct.com
Sacramento, CA 95821
916-247-5580
www.whiteliesdesigns.com
Dancing Fihers
3305 66th Street #4
Lowell, MA 01851
978-453-2837
www.classiceJiteYlrns.com
800-357-7646
www.knitonecrochettoo.com
NOTIONS
LO
the yarn
}o-Ann
EJ Segundo, CA 90245
800-525-495 1
www.joann.com
P. O. Box 214883
Sacramento, CA 95821
916-247-5580
www.whiteliesdesigns.com
. .:.
159
0>
abbreviations, 158
Iron maidens, 56
shrug, 14-19
Corset-Bodice Niglltgown,
62-65
skirt, 46-49
corsets, 56-83
sachets, 84, 94
Shaped Lace Tee, 90- 95
sl ips. 32- 55
Basic Bra, 8- 13
lingerie, 4- 5
Corset-Bodice Nightgown,
62-65
cami-knickers,51
lounge/nightwear, 132-155
Leggings with
144-147
Embroidered Stockings,
120- 123
~ksh
Sides,
Feather-Trimmed Cabled
Bustier and Fingerless
Gloves, 72- 75
merry widows. 66
history, 110
nightgown, 62-65
seams, 120
history, 84
petticoats, 46
tee, 90-95
playwear,20
'-
Maidenform.66
cami-knickers,51
camisoles, 84-109
camisenes, 29
history, 32
Corset-13odicc Nightgown,
62-65
dowries, 153
bustier, 72- 75
Feather-Trimme<1 Cabled
Bustier and Fingerless
Gloves, 72-75
1(,0
'-'
tcchni<lues,156-157
twinset,14- 19
garter belts/garters. 51, 110,
128- 131
Gracefully Gathered Iialter
Top and Boy Short, 24-27
hailer wp, 24-27