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Build a 4 Color T-Shirt Printing Press

by Progfellow on August 4, 2008

Table of Contents

intro: Build a 4 Color T-Shirt Printing Press . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

step 1: Lumber needed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

step 2: Hardware needed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

step 3: Making the Table: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

step 4: Building the Platen Arm and Platen: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

step 5: Building the Rotating Printing Press (Part A): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

step 6: Building the Rotating Printing Press (Part B): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
intro: Build a 4 Color T-Shirt Printing Press
Due to the high cost of Four Color Printing Presses (for screen printed T-shirts), I decided if I wanted one of decent quality on my limited budget I'd have to make my
own. But buying 4 pairs of standard clips for holding screens, or "jiffy hinges", was a big investment on its own (about $130!!!). So a friend and I created our own design
and built this entire press for about the cost of those expensive hinges.

You can download a PDF of these plans at http://www.printingplans.com

Plan on a few days to finish the press as it is very involved. It is recommended to have a second person help out as several steps could use one person holding while the
other person attaches.

A few notes before the main instructions: The sturdiness and precision of the press is important for the success of multi-color images, so its important to be as accurate
as possible in your measurements. It is also recommended that you use wood glue at each joint in addition to screws so that the press is as stable as possible. You may
also want to predrill holes before putting in the screws to avoid splitting of the wood (use a bit thats slightly smaller than the screw). This table is designed for a six foot
tall person. To alter it for someone of a different height, adjust parts N and O accordingly.

Tools Youll Need:

Power Drill/Screwdriver
Wood and Metal Bits
Miter Saw
Table Saw or Circular Saw
Electric Sander
Workbench Vise or Drill Press
Yardstick/Measuring Tape
Pencil
Level
Square
Clamps
Wood Glue
Welding Glue (or tools/materials for welding)
Paper or Cardstock

Image Notes
1. Removable, adjustable platen. You can make additional platens for other items- children's clothing, larger prints on shirts, etc.
2. Turnbuckle/spring combo makes for easily adjustable tension. When adjusted properly, your screens will stay upright but can easily be pulled down for printing.
3. Sturdy base prevents movement while printing.
4. Storage shelf for inks, platens, etc.
5. Print four color shirts or have four, one-color screens up at one time.
6. Don't paint your walls this color.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
step 1: Lumber needed
In the diagram above youll find the dimensions of all the lumber youll need. (It looks like Instructables resizes the image to the point that it's hard to read the dimensions
here. You can see all these images at higher resolution at http://printingplans.com ). The particle board can be another type of wood as long as it is 1/2 thick. The most
important thing regarding the thickness of your wood is that the sum of the width of pieces B, F and the lazy susan turntable is equal to the sum of the thickness of pieces
I and U. This will help align everything so your screens float just the perfect height above your shirts for off-contact printing. You should be able to cut all your 2 x 4 pieces
out of six 8-foot lengths, so Id recommend buying seven to be safe. They should all be good, straight pieces, but it is especially important to find a perfectly straight piece
for parts T and U.

Note: Part D is not listed in the instructions. It is a substitute for part K if you choose not to buy a 1 x 4 and would prefer to use your existing plywood.

step 2: Hardware needed

Hardware Needed:

Below you'll find a list of all hardware needed for the project. Most of it can be found at your local hardware store, though you may find they don't have the total quantity of
the c-clamps or springs on hand. You'll also need to go to a specialty woodworking store to find the swivel (lazy susan). Make sure you get a heavy duty, 7" x 7" x 1"
model or you'll compromise the effectiveness of your press.

1 Lazy Susan Turntable, 7 x 7

8 Metal C-Clamps, 2" (height) x 1 (depth)
4 Hinges with hardware (screws), 3 1/2 wide
8 Hook & Eye Turnbuckles, 3/16" x 4 3/4"
8 Springs, 5/8" x 3 1/4" x .072"
8 Lag Eye Screws, 1/4" x 3 3/4"
4 Lag Eye Screws, 3/16" x 2 1/16"
4 Hex Cap Bolts, 1/4" x 1 1/4"
4 Hex Cap Bolts, 1/4" x 1 3/4"
2 Hex Cap Bolts, 3/8" x 7"
2 Carriage Bolts, 3/8" x 3
8 Hex Nuts, 1/4"
2 Hex Nuts, 3/8"
4 Washers, 3/16"
6 Washers, 3/8"
8 Fender Washers, 1 1/4" diameter
2 Wingnuts, 3/8"
1 Pound 2.5 Wood Screws
Several 2" and 3 Wood Screws as needed

Sorry for the shameless self promotion, but you can buy all this hardware in one place here:

http://tinyurl.com/printingpress

Naturally I benefit from these sales, but since I've bought a whole bunch of this hardware in bulk, you can get it cheaper here, plus you'll save yourself from having to find
a specialty store with the swivel and from spending 2 hours at the hardware store finding all the parts. It's really a win win deal, but I'll stop before I sound too spammy.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
Okay, self promotion over, now back to the instructable...

Image Notes
1. This isn't so easy to see, but all of this information is available in the text.

step 3: Making the Table:

Step 1: Cut all your lumber, marking each piece with the appropriate letter to make assembly easier. We’ll start by assembling the table itself. First, lay down parts L and
Q and attach the legs (part N) as shown (fig. a). Make sure that your angles are perfectly square. Where parts L extend past the legs, use a piece of 2 x 4 to check that
the bits that extend are exactly equal to the smaller width of the wood.

Step 2: Attach the thin sides of parts M to part A as shown in fig. 2. Use only glue and clamps for now. Again using only clamps and glue, set parts A and M on top of the
two legs you built in Step 1, so that parts L and M form a square around the perimiter of A. This is shown from above in fig. c. (Dotted lines indicate parts beneath.) Once
you feel comfortable with the fit, Go ahead and screw parts L into M, and A into both L & M from the top.

Step 3: Now you have a standing, albeit weak, table. Attach parts P to legs N as shown in fig. d. Do it in the front and back, both times keeping part P flush to the outside,
as seen from above in fig. e. Note: Parts P act as a support beam and rests for a shelf (part E). It can be lowered or raised to suit your preference, and additional shelves
may be added if desired.

Step 4: Attach part O to the outside of both sides of the table (fig. f). Make sure you orient them as shown for maximum support. Now secure shelf E onto crossbeams P
to act as a shelf. Add part K to the back to help keep items from falling off. You are now finished with the table itself. It should be plenty sturdy with no give at all.

Image Notes
1. Make sure the overlap of the wood here is exactly equal to the width of a 2 x 4. Image Notes
(Which is NOT 2 inches. Go figure.) 1. You're viewing this from above. The dotted lines indicate parts underneath
part A.

Image Notes
1. Really you can put this shelf as far up or down as you like. Add more. Add
drawers. Add a juke box.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
step 4: Building the Platen Arm and Platen:
Step 5: The platen arm is the board that extends from the table and on which a board (the platen) is placed, over which shirts are pulled and printed. First glue piece F in
the exact middle of the top of the table (piece A). This can be done by drawing lines from opposite corners on piece A, (creating an “X”). Now by matching the corners of
board F onto the newly drawn “X”, you’ll get it in the middle (see fig. g). Do not screw it in place at this time- use glue only.

Step 6: Before continuing with the press itself, we’re going to build the platen. The platen featured here is for adult T-shirts, so if you’re interested in printing other types
of items you’ll need to build other platens of different sizes. This design is such that you can use the platen sideways for wide designs in addition to using it in its normal
position. If that it not of interest to you, feel free to simplify the design.

Using your drill press or workbench vise and drill, create half-inch holes in the middle of the largest side of 4 of your parts W. For the remaining 4, draw a line 2 3/8” in
from the end and drill the holes in the new middle (see fig. h). Then attach them onto board G as shown in fig. i. Use a 2 x 4 to help you space the wood so the platen will
fit snugly onto the platen arm when it’s ready. Also make sure that the distance between the holes in one direction is the exact same distance as the holes going the
other way (see fig. j). You’ll definitely want to predrill your holes before attaching parts W or you’ll have problems with splitting wood.

Step 7: Now that you have a finished platen, let’s use it to determine where to drill holes in your platen arm (part U). Place the platen over the part U (it should fit
snuggly). The curved edge of the platen should be 3” from the end of the platen arm. Mark the holes, remove the platen, then drill half-inch holes throught the platen arm,
making sure that they go straight through. You may also want to drill a second set of holes 2 1/4” further in (to the left if looking at fig. k) for greater flexibility when
printing.

Step 8: Now that the holes are drilled in the platen arm, let’s attach it to the table. Use your two carriage bolts with the appropriate washers and hex nuts to attach it and
add four screws for added stability. See fig. l for placement. The dotted lines indicate where to measure to insure your platen arm is straight (before securing). Attach part
V as shown in fig. m so it’s centered in the middle of part U. Make sure the screws go into the table AND the platen arm.

Image Notes
1. This line (and the mirror image line below) is just where you should measure to
see if the end of your platen arm is centered.

step 5: Building the Rotating Printing Press (Part A):

Step 9: Attach your Lazy Susan Turntable directly in the middle of part F using 4 of your 1 1/4" hex cap bolts. Drill holes directly through parts F and A to do this and use
hex nuts to secure them underneath. Fig. n shows this as if the top part of the turntable is missing, just so you can see the orientation of the hex cap bolts. Draw an "X"
onto part B by dividing it in half and in half again. Make sure this is exactly in the center. Youll be using this later. Next glue both parts S back to back and attach the end
of the resulting block to the middle of part B. See fig. o for two views of this.

Step 10: Your accuracy in the following steps is vital to the success of your finished product, so measure carefully! Drill holes in each of your metal brackets as shown in
fig. p. Now use a larger bit equal to the size of your screw heads and drill in each of your holes, so that when you screw the bracket on, the screw heads will be flush.
Attach each bracket to the end of a part T, making sure its in the exact middle from side to side. The bottom of the bracket should extend below the wood about the
thickness of the hinges (so that when the arm is in the down position the bracket rests on part I). (fig. q). On the opposite end of each part T, screw in one of the hinges
so that the edge of the cylindrical part of the hinge is flush with the edge of board T. Use the screws that came with the hinge. The hinge should be facing up , so that
when you put in the screws from the bottom into the wood, it will be through the wrong end. In other words, the tapered part of the hole is now between the hinge and the
wood, and the larger part of the cylindrical section of the hinge is facing up (figs. q & r).

Step 11: Now attach each arm (part T with additions) to four sides of part B using the rest of the screws that came with the hinges (fig. s). Make sure that length x is the
same for all arms. Using the X you drew onto part B in step 9, measure in 1 7/8 from each side and drill a hole big enough for your 3/16" hex cap bolts.

Step 12: Bolt the piece you just built in step 11 to the lazy suzan turntable using 1/4" hex cap bolts from underneath and the appropriate nuts and washers.. Make sure all
four arms reach the exact same spot on the platen arm (as shown in fig. t). You can probably move the whole top part slightly until this is the case, and then tighten the
nuts. If you cant seem to get each arm to the same spot on part U, tighten the nuts when youve done the best you can. You still need to get the arms the same length, so
mark the shortest one, remove part J from any arm that is longer, and sand part T until its the appropriate length. Now reattach any part J that was removed. This may
seem like a lot of extra work, but it will be well worth it once you start printing multi-color shirts.

Step 13: Twist the top mechanism 45? to get it out of the way (this will become easier when we add the springs so the arms will be out of the way). Attach part I onto the
platen arm (U) using a single screw (otherwise it would probably split). It should be right where part J lands when you lay an arm onto part U, or about 8 5/8 in from the
inner end of part U (see figs. u and v). Next attach parts H to the platen arm (part U) so that the curved part of the board is on top and faces in, and so that parts H
overhang 7/8 over the side of part A. Make sure to predrill holes for the screws (slightly small than the screws) to make this easier. See figs. u, v and w for different views

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
of this.

Fig. w shows boards H with the curved parts facing in. The reason for this is that as you lower an arm into place, the curved edges will help it fall easily into place. Try
doing this now to make sure there is the correct width between the two parts H. The arm (T) should fit VERY snuggly, but stil be able to go into place without excessive
force. Remember that when you have a screen connected to the arm it will become even easier to do this because of leverage. Getting parts H to be the perfect distance
apart was one of the most difficult parts of building my own press. At first it was too tight and required some adjustment. To make these fine adjustments, loosen the
screws and use pieces of cardstock as shims in between parts H and U. Then retighten the screws. Add more shims as necessary until you have the perfect width. If you
take the time to do this, youre press will be ultra-accurate.

Image Notes
1. I cannot stress how vital it is to make sure this bracket is attached so that it is
completely parallel/perpendicular to all adjacent parts. If it is parallel to the platen
arm (when in the down position) then it should hover just a touch above the platen.
This way you'll have excellent off-contact printing and you're printing accuracy will
be much better.

Image Notes
1. It's worth taking the time to make sure these arms each reach the same
spot on the platen arm.

Image Notes
1. The curved edges should face in so each screen and arm will slide easily
into place.

step 6: Building the Rotating Printing Press (Part B):

Step 14: Now that youve secured the brackets (H), you can use them to hold each arm (T) in place while you do the next step. On each arm, draw a line 1 5/16 in from
the outer edge of part T (see fig. x). Using these as guides, screw in each of your 1/4" lag eye screws into parts T until they only stick out about 2 1/4 from the board. Next
screw in your set of four smaller lag eye screws into part B, halfway between the bolts that are already on the dotted line and parts S. See fig. x for the proper orientation
of the lag eye screws. Now gather all your springs and turnbuckles. Youre now going to connect one spring to the closed end of each turnbuckle. To do this, clamp one
pair of vise grips onto the end of a spring as indicated by the red bar in fig. y. Next use your other pair of vise grips and grasp the same end of the spring as indicated by
the blue bar. Now as you bring the two pairs of vise grips together it will widen the opening. Once the opening is wide enough, remove the vise grips and attach the spring
to the eye end of the turnbuckle. Now use a single pair of vise grips to squeeze the openings on the end of the springs closed. Do this to all 8 sets of springs and
turnbuckles (see fig. y).

Step 15: Now attach each of your turnbuckle/spring combos to the top rotating mechanism. The hooks will attach to the large lag eye screws at ends of the arms, and the
loose ends of the springs will attach to the lag eye screws sticking out of the octoganal part B (two springs per lag screw). Youll need to use the vise grips to attach the
springs as before. Well adjust the tension of the turnbuckles later on. You can push each arm down so it touches the table to keep it out of the way while you work. Now
take each of your C-clamps and drill a hole in the the main arm 1 up from the the point shown in fig. aa. This hole should be just slightly smaller than one of your screw
heads. After youve done this to all eight, weld your 1 or 1 1/4 diameter washers to the mobile part of the clamp as shown. Welding glue will work just fine. Put cardboard
in between the washer and the adjacent part of the clamp to avoid bonding there. The purpose of these washers is to create a greater surface area on the clamp so as to
avoid denting your screen frames.

Step 16: (Important Note: fig. bb shows how to place 2.5 clamps onto the press with altered parts X. You can use 2 clamps just as effectively by creating parts X as show
in the materials section (1 1/4 x 1 ), and then placing your clamps perpendicular to parts J instead of at an angle.) Once the welding glue dries, and using figs. bb and cc
as your guide, screw your altered C-clamps through parts X into part T. (Youll want to have parts X glued and clamped to make this easier.) The washers that you welded
onto the C-clamps need to clear the side of the vertical part of bracket J. The bottom of the C-clamps should be welded (glued) underneath brackets J as shown in fig cc.
Tighten the clamps all the way while you work and while it glues to help hold them in place. Not only will your C-clamps hold your screens firmly in place, but they will also
act as a place to rest your squeegees when your screens are in an upright position.

Step 17: Part R-a has a notch on the top, part R-b has a notch on the bottom. Glue part R-b onto part R-a so the notches intersect, forming an X . Attach this X onto the
top of parts S so that it is centered, as shown in figs. dd and ee.

Step 18: Next attach shelf C onto the top so that the corners are each in the middle of parts R (see fig. ff). Now sand off the corners protruding from parts Q and U. Not
only will this save you some potential pain as you print, but the smooth end of the platen arm will help shirts slide on more easily.

20 x 24 frames work best with this press. Attach a frame to each arm (one at a time) and place a squeegee on it. Now that youve got it at its operation weight, its time to
adjust the turnbuckles so it will gently return back to the upright position in between pulls (if released about half way up). For each arm, make sure you adjust the two
turnbuckles equally until you are happy with the tension. Thats it. Youre done! Happy printing!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
 Image Notes
1. Careful- with no screen to weigh down this arm, it will snap into place if you let it
go. That might not feel so good.

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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 78 comments

tsilvetti says: Mar 17, 2009. 8:34 PM REPLY

Hey there , I just completed my press , question is what size screens should I use? And does anyone know a good site for buying the good mesh material
? Thanks!!

Progfellow says: Mar 18, 2009. 6:40 AM REPLY

It was created with 20" x 24" in mind. Sorry, I haven't bought mesh online. Do you have the proper stretching equipment?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
 tsilvetti says: Apr 9, 2009. 1:28 PM REPLY
Hey there , no I do not have the proper stretching equipment , as far as I know I would jut stretch it myself. I have bought mesh fabric from Hobby
Lobby , what do you use and any advice on actually building the frames? Thanks

wompuscatgilly says: Mar 27, 2009. 5:52 PM REPLY

haha, nevermind. i just had to read a little bit:]

wompuscatgilly says: Mar 27, 2009. 8:16 AM REPLY

how much would you say the entire press cost you??

Progfellow says: Mar 27, 2009. 9:20 AM REPLY

About $150.

lonerayven says: Mar 12, 2009. 5:15 PM REPLY

Big question. Maybe it's been answered before but exactly how many boards of what kind of wood and what size should I get to encompass all the wood
cuts cheaply and easily? I mean someone who has had experience with this Instructable. Ex. like two N x N x N coated boards and 3 N x N x N
presswood/plywood boards. Sorry I'm going out shopping for the stuff and unless I have to, maybe I can avoid the calculations before hand if some one else
has. :-D If not, just tell me I'm lazy and I'll do it lol... Um also, an idea, if I wanted, could I corner cut those angled 2x4's on the frame and inset them to line up
with the two vertical 2x4's and screw them into the inside of base and side of the frame? What are your thoughts on that. Or would the stability be shot?
(Don't have much of a carpenter's logic)

Oh and THANK YOU SO MUCH! This is going to help me get my printing ideas going!

Progfellow says: Mar 17, 2009. 10:00 AM REPLY

Hi there. The only wood you need very much of are the 2 x 4's. I believe I mention on www.printingplans.com how many 8 foot lengths you'd need to
cover it all. The rest of the wood you'd only need scraps if you can find them. Full sheets will be way more than enough.

Not sure exactly what you mean about moving those 2 x 4's. Having them at an angle to create triangles is probably better for stability. Depends on what
you mean, though. Triangles are always much stronger than only right angles.

Best of luck!

Amir says: Mar 10, 2009. 9:27 AM REPLY

Excellent answer, thanks so much. I'll send you guys a picture when it's done.

Amir says: Mar 10, 2009. 7:17 AM REPLY

Guys, this is awesome. Hell, this is awesome squared. I love it. I've got my hands full with projects right now, but this one is coming up on my list. I'm trying
to set up my attic as an art studio complete with home built screen printing press and my question is this...

Can anyone tell me what the dimensions are of this thing when it's completed. I'm wondering if I'll be able to make it fit.

Thanks,
Amir

Progfellow says: Mar 10, 2009. 8:19 AM REPLY

Hi Amir- thanks! As for the dimensions (in inches), the footprint is 23 x 40, but the platen arm hangs out an extra 10. Without any screens on it it is 44
inches tall. Add 20 x 24 screens all around and it's 65 inches tall and 49 inches wide from the top of one screen to another, but you'll need at least
another 5 inches on each side to spin it around.

Progfellow says: Aug 8, 2008. 9:30 AM REPLY

By the way, if anyone has gone to the hardware store in search of parts, I'd like to hear your experiences. Thanks...

lmn says: Feb 9, 2009. 8:00 PM REPLY

I went out to buy all the hardware and it took me 2 hours.
I got most of the stuff at Lowes, but with some of the other pieces I had to search at more specialized stores like Ace and other local stores. My total
came out to be around $92 so if you think $95 is expensive for the parts think again.

lmn says: Feb 10, 2009. 7:02 PM REPLY

$92.33 exactly

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
 lmn says: Mar 9, 2009. 3:42 PM REPLY
All in all, I spent about $170 on the whole unit but I bought some extra lumber and hardware. Without those costs it'd be about $150 which is
much better than $400-600!

Progfellow says: Mar 9, 2009. 4:13 PM REPLY

Thanks for sharing!

truman7777 says: Nov 25, 2008. 4:11 PM REPLY

thanks for the nice instructions. I built it with two plattens. Also built light exposure table and screen dryer cabnet along with a washout booth made from a
garage sink with attached back and sides. I haven't used any of it yet, still gathering materials.

Progfellow says: Dec 3, 2008. 8:11 AM REPLY

Sure, thanks! Wow, you really took this to the next level!

By the way, I had to fix an error in the instructions. Previously I had the wrong springs written, so likely the arms on your press are really hard to pull
down. You can see the instructions for the correct spring type now. Sorry about that!

Michael

truman7777 says: Dec 3, 2008. 10:26 AM REPLY

Michael, I sent my springs back to you at your request. Any idea when the correct ones will arrive?

Progfellow says: Nov 21, 2008. 7:37 AM REPLY

I've made a correction in the plans. The springs should be the following measurements: 5/8" width, 3.25" total length, .072" wire width. This is the kind of
spring originally used on the press. For some reason the wrong spring was listed in the plans. My apologies to anyone who has tried building this with the
wrong spring!

dwade725 says: Nov 3, 2008. 9:46 PM REPLY

I'm just starting a t-shirt making business/hobby. This looks like the perfect machine for me to start off with. I don't mean to be a pain, but I really am
unfamiliar with the entire creative process when dealing with t-shirts. Is there any advice/step by step instructions you could give me? Thanks for posting
such an incredible product.

Progfellow says: Nov 14, 2008. 8:05 PM REPLY

HI there, did I ever respond to you? I thought I had but now I'm not so sure! Please let me know and I can get back to you with a better response.
Thanks!

Michael

Brettany says: Oct 28, 2008. 12:46 PM REPLY

Im not sure if I will get a reply or not because this is an older post. But I was just wondering if anyone has built this, and how it works? Dont you usually need
heat for printing? How do you incorperate that? Or do you use paint? Just want to get a little more info because my hubby and I are wanting to try this out! If
you could please write me back with any information that would be great! (You can e-mail me because im not sure if I will remember to look back at this... or
how long it will take for someone to reply - BrettanyStory@hotmail.com)

Thank you!

Progfellow says: Oct 28, 2008. 1:21 PM REPLY

Hi Brettany, you don't need heat for printing, but for curing, which is the process of drying the ink on the shirt. I do mine one at a time in my oven at 375
degrees for about 1 minutes (your oven may vary). I use a laser thermometer to make sure to get a reading between 300 and 320 degrees on the ink. I'll
go ahead and email this to you as well...

tbenefi33 says: Aug 20, 2008. 12:05 AM REPLY

Thank you for sharing what size frames can you use ?

and can you print on hat and other stuff as well ?

Progfellow says: Aug 21, 2008. 8:04 AM REPLY

Hello, I use 20" by 24" frames. I have made a few different platens for other items, but haven't done hats. You'd have to experiment to make a platen that
will work for that. Thanks!

Michael

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
 ArtManDan says: Aug 18, 2008. 5:01 PM REPLY
This thing is great! Nice work on the instructions.

beefsupreme says: Aug 14, 2008. 12:21 AM REPLY

Hey, I'm really looking forward to getting started on this, and getting my own little web based company up and running. This is a huge help! I'm very grateful.
XD

Thank you!

bsumner says: Aug 7, 2008. 9:28 PM REPLY

Why couldn't I of seen this before I spent 300 dollars......

Brother_Bear says: Aug 9, 2008. 1:06 PM REPLY

Thats still cheap for a multicolor press

Dave7F says: Aug 8, 2008. 12:42 AM REPLY

I may have missed this in my quick look over your instructable, but how is the "registration" controlled? Is it just in the burning of the screen and setting the
screens in the clamp?

I wondering because I have a single station, single color setup (labor intensive) and I was thinking your press looked pretty impressive, so to speak.

Progfellow says: Aug 8, 2008. 6:33 AM REPLY

As with other low end presses, registration is controlled manually buy loosing the clamps, nudging the screen, and tightening until they match up. I print
registration marks on my multicolor designs (the circle with the plus sign) and use these as I initially set it up, making sure to cover them up with tape
before I print. I'll do a print on paper with the first screen, then line the others up.

Expensive presses have microregistration where one can turn knobs to slightly adjust the position of the screen. Currently this one does not have this,
but it's in the works. I plan on making it something that can be added later if someone's already made the press.

nosemeat says: Aug 8, 2008. 2:27 PM REPLY

I'd love to see that implemented here.
Even the micro reg on the higher end presses can be a pain in the rear. We have about half a dozen expensive M&R presses at work, and
sometimes the best adjustment is a good whack with a small hammer or your palm.

DrWeird117 says: Aug 8, 2008. 11:26 AM REPLY

This is a real money saver!

oktane says: Aug 8, 2008. 9:10 AM REPLY

Brilliant! I've been waiting to see one of these on Instructables!

Excellent diagrams!

Progfellow says: Aug 8, 2008. 9:35 AM REPLY

Thanks Oktane, glad I could be of help.

minimalista says: Aug 8, 2008. 4:31 AM REPLY

Fantastic!!!great!!!!
in your opinion what is the maximux size of frame you can use on your machine?
i normalli una a metal frame of 50 x 70 cm is possible use this size?

Progfellow says: Aug 8, 2008. 6:38 AM REPLY

That's the exact size I use, so you're good! If they were much bigger they'd collide with each other in the upright position.

destructopop says: Aug 8, 2008. 4:11 AM REPLY

This is fantastic! It looks as good or better than the presses at the studio I used to work at... Absolutely fabulous. Thank you so much for sharing.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
 Progfellow says: Aug 8, 2008. 6:34 AM REPLY
Sure thing, thanks dp!

khaeotixs says: Aug 7, 2008. 2:51 PM REPLY

Just off the first picture i can tell this is well thought out, well made and just generally a Good Job.

So, good work.

Progfellow says: Aug 7, 2008. 5:18 PM REPLY

Thanks khaeotixs!

khaeotixs says: Aug 7, 2008. 10:14 PM REPLY

no problem.

tonysoprano6379 says: Aug 7, 2008. 7:58 PM REPLY

Outstanding !!!!!!!

I have been searching for some time for plans like this !!!!

Thank you very much!!!!!!!

nosemeat says: Aug 7, 2008. 2:47 PM REPLY

This is pretty slick, and definitely seems pretty well thought out.
I imagine since there isn't really any front-to-back adjustment that you have to burn (expose) your screens pretty accurately in lieu of that?

Progfellow says: Aug 7, 2008. 5:17 PM REPLY

True. The clamping mechanism allows for about 2/3 to 3/4 inch front to back movement, so it is important to burn the screens accurately. The platen IS
adjustable front to back, depending on how many holes you drill in the arm. If someone took the time to create two half-inch slits going down the platen
arm, the hex cap bolts could stay in there and the platen could be adjusted to any point along the way.

The less technical option is to adjust where you pull the shirt to. You can make a mark on the platen or platen arm and pull all shirts to that point for a
given design.

completegeek says: Aug 7, 2008. 1:42 PM REPLY

Great design. I built one myself as well but yours seems much more stable. Wish this had been around before I sunk money into a commercial press

Progfellow says: Aug 7, 2008. 5:12 PM REPLY

Thanks, cg.

myrth says: Aug 7, 2008. 1:42 PM REPLY

hey now - awesome instrucable!

but! how does one go about making the "mask"...the silk screen (is that the proper terminology?)?

thanks.

-myrth

Progfellow says: Aug 7, 2008. 5:08 PM REPLY

That's a whole instructable unto itself! :-) The process is called "burning" the screen. Put simply it goes like this:

In a darkroom (I converted my bathroom into a darkroom) coat your screen on both sides with photo emulsion, preferably using a "scoop coater".

Let dry one hour.

Print your image in black onto a clear material (I use my inkjet and print on vellum paper).

Tape it upside down onto the back of your screen. Cover with glass and weight it down.

Expose the screen using a light source with heavy UV output. I use a 500 watt photoflood bulb for about half an hour, but it depends on the fineness of
your mesh, whether the screen is colored, etc. You'll have to do some tests to find the perfect time.

Wash out the image with a hose on very low. It should take a minute for it to start working once the water hits it. If the image doesn't come out with just
the water, gently rub the bottom of the screen with a sponge to aid it along.

Dry by a fan or in the sun.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/
 There it is! That's just the basics and there's more that can be said, but that's the cliffnotes.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build_a_4_Color_T_Shirt_Printing_Press/