A

JOURNEY
DUE
SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

IN

TRAVELS

SOUTH

OF

SEAKCH

SDNSHINE.

BY

GEOEGE
AUTHOR

OF

"AMERICA

AUGUSTUS
REVISITED,"

ILLUSTRATED

"PARIS

WITH

SALA,
AGAIN,"

HERSELF

PICTURES,"

ETC.

ENGRAVINGS.

PAGE

16

"DUTCH

Human

bodies

preserved

LONDON

VIZETELLY

6-

CO.,

42,

CATHERINE

1885.

in

ashes

at

Pompeii.

STREET,

STRAND.

LONDON

"
BRADBURY,

AONEW,

CO.,

.RINTER3,

J)

WHITEFRIARS.

PREFACE.

SAIT-OH

Pon

ou

innumerable

have

never

whom

know.

it

so

vagabond
"Yet

!"

"We

cried

the

soldiers

haled

not

whither

going

to

as

an

him

of

by

Did

impudent
heels."

Pillgarlic

said

that

know

not

watch.

the

the

quoth
"I

away.

going.

that

as

knew

was

gaol?"
apologue

introduction

Continental

chiefly

him

was

lay

answer,"

proper

hackneyed

This

and

prison,

the

did

he

this

me

was

down

that

March

see.

he

and

captain

haughty

the

shall

to

replied

season,

Plutarch

in

up

will

grave,

whither

asked

wandering

him

the

fellow

watch

the

met

Ha

off

made

of

night

the

"

Is

he

mad

asked

been

has

side

this

on

The

captain

when

in

town

and,

answer.

an

the

going,

"

times

question

The

va

to

Travel.

consists

this

The

were

little

the

volume

essays
the

in

must,

result

of

of

which

of

main,
sketches

the

serve

few

volume

weeks'

of

PREFACE.

holiday enjoyed

two

They

newspaper.

book-form

when

little leisure

the

the

going,

was

had

to

meant

Those

of

autumnal

my

be

(which

detestable

soon

driven

be
as

by

stress

hole

I had

attacked

out

of

me

to Death's

the

by

that

island

where

door,

and

my

thence

not

this

bulk

Fates

time

creed
de-

; that

into

weather

Bastia

tion
slightest inten-

the
I did

get
so

had

saved

Ajaccio

to

haste

Bronchitis
was

Elba.

the

Ironical

ceed
pro-

conjure

from

absorb

I made

life

to

to

fit of sickness

of Corsica.

in which

Escape

Elba,

reach.

to

house

and

would

of

definite

one

endeavour

when

convalescent

was

places

the

The

visit

not

exploring),and

I should

; but

to whither

bourne

see

the

outing.

should

of

of

thought,

I should

that

so

to

and

Ferrajo,

journeys,

in

labour

to

as

papers

born,

was

mind-pictures

some

up

in

definite

one

Great

Porto

to

ignorance

these

Ajaccio

to

the

Napoleon

of

and

go

I continued

finding myself

outset

view,

careful

for

by

graph
Tele-

be.

to

the

at

in

object

of

Daily

little leisure

and

came,

of invincible

and

expected

never

have

should

never

burden

under

were

possible reproduction

and

revision

and

of the
laid

were

and

ago,

years

columns

in the

originallypublished

correction

three

or

that

sore

scuttle

to

brought
by

wise

PREFACE.

kind

and

compelled

envelope,

had

chemists

in

and

the

It

and

below.
the

we

and

in the

the

people

; and

in

laid

in

the

Eome,

Caius

of

do

not

There

is

the

the

doctors

; the

season,

suits

wife

is

be

like

the

fond

as

wall
and

the

(sait-on

carried

Cemetery

as

speech,

should
to

at the

di Leone

Eoman

to

Europe.

at home

; my

there,

hard

of

by

Eome.

happiest-

seen.

ever

whither

country

cold

beautiful

I have

institutions,and

in

The

City keep,

Bocca

Sestius, and

that
know

Via

Protestant

most

recruit.

much

as

or

and

greenest

the

on

(whither

Eoman

London
like

looking graveyard
But

the

We

die

Pyramid
is the

in

to

Vonva?)

for

am.

as

to Eome

Eternal

the

the

was

door.

year) to

always

am

house

own

my

Eome

dead,

hot

d'Inghilterraon

manners,
ou

the

hundred-

apothecaries'shops

esteem

admirably.

Albergo

of

highest

climate, in

Eoman

am

nicest

thinking, the
the

of

that

inscribed

poor'7

that

going

druggists

and

I have

me

of

thought

not

Hotel

holiday,

slip

to

I could

swiftlyas

as

on

fee, so

departed

the

the

at

was

any

his bedroom

underneath

I travelled

f or

"

note, with

franc

too

take

to

before

just

he

that

me

resolutely refused

and

my

told

who

resident

physician

German

Germania,

we

called

governing

are

going

"

here

Eussia, the climate,

classes

of

which

"

PREFACE.

police-agents
"

Petersburg

from

"

Sea

do

can

to

have

of

to go

the

funeral

St.

to

again

the

not

yet

the

Ides

in

little book

is

South'7

due

Journey

travel, published

century

ago,

North."
and

no

thought

adhere

in

these

title.

Por

the

that

it

republished
rest

and

in

big, uglyr

1881,

record

to

II.,

and

to

coronation
To

of
Tsars

of

of

view,

descriptive
first

than

more

Publishers, however,

mine

earnest

it chanced

point

my

descriptive

was

the

III.

more

than

Eussian

anybody

elastic.

strictlygeographical

unpretentious

Eussia

the

the

Alexander

precisely

that

As

in

record

to

sadly

are

the

Alexander

murdered

assassinated

of March
a

visit

to

again.

Tsar

1883,

crossed

visit

thing

Petersburg again
the

of

Moscow

the

cess
pro-

I cherished

never

the

not

never

foolish

most

But

might

did

would

that
the

in

army

down

come

Kischeneff) and

register vows.

had

Prom

Eussian

the
at

TOW"

empire

enslaved

"

see

It is about

that

hope

to

in

When

hate.

(having

Odessa

Constantinople,

to

register

again.

left

mobilisation

of

Black

of

lowest

the

to

cordially

very

1877,

January,

Excellencies

of

highest

the

from

"

have

might
papers

conclusion

to

of

journal
quarter

Journey
their

be

this

as

their

of

of

due

whims;
well

to

original

(sait-onou

Von

PKEFACE.

?)

va

venture

time

of

that

is

to

and

to

so

always

(setting
knowing
the

from

next

whither

two

months

after

one,

Gentlemen.

my
out

Good

all.

Christmas

Merry

the

South

Great

bye,
and

be

westerly
South-

and

Happy

Year.

GEORGE

ON

BOARD

THE

QUEENSTOWN,
Sunday,

"

CFNARD

s.s.

AUGUSTUS

GALLIA,"

IRELAND,
December

28,

1884.

not

during

Ladies

had

and

of

course,

to

of

West,

blundering,

turn

not

may

South

contingencies

going,)

are

you

present

But

for

inevitable

the

the

Melbourne.

capacity

more

journey

from

to

this

at

thence

to

natural

aside

that

bound

California

fine

slightly

am

stating

am

America

North

beginning

am

say,

"

Ireland

in

accurate

writing

West':

that

hope

to

geographically

Vll

SALA.

New

CONTENTS.

JOURNEY

SOUTH.

DUE

PAOK

I.

FEW

Houns

IN

DELIGHTFUL

THE

CITY

13
....

II.

III.

LIFE

MARSEILLES

AT

SOUTHERN

28

FARE

BOUILLABAISSE

AND

40
.

IV.

NICE

AND

NEFARIOUS

ITS

ANOTHER

QUITE

NICE

FROM

51
.

NICE

67
.

VI.

.
.

NEIGHBOUR
.

V.

TO

BASTIA

80
........

VII.

VIII.

ON

SHORE

DILIGENCE

THE

IX.

X.

BASTIA

AT

SUNDAY

THE

95

LIFE

TO

COME

AGAIN

108

AJACCIO

AT

Too

HOTEL

121

SOON

134
.

XL

HOUSE

THE

IN

ST.

CHARLES

STREET,

.147

AJACCIO
.

XII.

WINTER

CITY

160
.

XIII.

XIV.

XV.

GENOA,

DAY

"

BOLOGNA

AUSTERE

OF

THE

SUPERB.

THE

THE

CITY

OF

THE

LEANING

TOWER

172

185

DEAD

196

CONTENTS.

PAGE

VENICE

XVI.

211

PRESERVED

....

XVII.

THE

Two

HOMES."

XVIII.

THE

Two

BOMBS.

THE

Two

ROMES"

XIX.

225

OLD

THE

-THE

NEW

(continued}

NEW"

THE

246
.

XX.

"ROMAN

THE

XXI.

IN

XXII.

SEASON

VATICAN

THE

WITH

TRAPPISTS

THE

CAMPAGNA

THE

IN

.283
.

XXIII.

NAPLES

FROM

TO

POMPEII

V
.

296
.

XXIV.

XXV.

THE

SHOW

THE

"MoviMENTo"

or

LONG-BURIED

PAST

312

NAPLES

or

.;

XXVI.

IN

SHADE

THE

'.

"'.

',

.'^

"

--

y ;

"

"

.347

''"

';'-

"

"

"

SPRING-TIME

I.

II.

CONTINENTAL

"To

ALL

PARIS.

IN

SUNDAY

THE

361

GLORIES

OF

FRANCE."
,

III.

LE

ROI

SOLEIL

AND

LA

BELLE

377

v
.

QUEEN'S

PLAYTHING

BOURBONNAISE

.390
.

IV.

','
.

'..x

404
""

"

LIST

ILLUSTKATIONS.

OF

PAGE

CORRICOLO

THE

HUMAN

Frontispiece

BODIES

PRESERVED

ASHES

IN

POMPEII

AT

Title

THE

PORT

MONTE

MARSEILLES

OF

17

CARLO

57

CORSICAN

THE

FOREST

98

FORTIFICATIONS

ON

PEAR

128

168

TREE
.

MARK'S

OF

VENICE

PLACE,

ARRIVAL

101

AJACCIO

AT

PRICKLY

BASTIA

OF

BEACH

THE

ST.

223

CARDINALS

THE

AT

QUIRINAL

THE

231
.

POPE

THE

Page

IN

CARDINAL

WOMEN

DISCOVERY

PANZA

OF

OF

232

VATICAN

THE

277

CAMPAGNA

THE

HOUSE

PETER'S

ST.

AT

ENTERING

OF

THE

SEDIA

THE

LOAVES

283

AT

IN

POMPEII,

RESTORED

BAKER'S

OVEN

312

AT

POMPSII

.318
.

NEAPOLITAN

WATER

SELLER

MACARONI

VENDOR'S

STALL

AT

349

NAPLES

354
.

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

i.

HOURS

FEW

THE

IN

CITY.

DELIGHTFUL

September

PAEIS,

down

South

that
"

it may

so

hardened

respects,
August,

alighted

much

from

the

minutes

Paris

very

sprouted

of

takes

to

afterwards,
was

up,

the
"

en

city

gourd-like,

et

and,

to-day

of

the

at

in

as

year
offices

the

myself,

many

Paris

the

and

much
found

be, in

to

than

month

water,

Nay,

me.

completeness

capital

pretty

confess

humours

and

and

Caillard,

way

that, the

of

matter

astonished

diligence

Laffite

astounding

wonderful

of

my

on

to

manners,

sincerity

last-named

Boulogne

the

fairly

Paris

City,
ashamed

least
for

or,

astonishing

MM.

Great

aspect,

in
the

aver

Victoires

des

duckling

the

have

grown

which

in

Messageries

France

more

1839,

the
"

that

up"

fiftieth,
life

my

have

owning

the

of

metropolis

the

in

in

not

am

for

be

time

of

Dame

that

Paris,

upon

and

hundredth

"

in

looked

JUST

22.

Rue

-of

first

of

the

Notre

newly-born
not

many

plein Palais-Royal."
enough
was

in

it

under

Louis

during

the

February,

1848,

Philippe
Republic
and

and

which

collapsed,

after the

much

very
1851.

ceased

never

to

It

marvels.

of fireworks

crowd
of

cry

below

0-o-o-oh

"

culmination

contrived

"

It

were

Lutetia

of M.
Mahon.

and

Our

his

guardianshipof
"

and

to have

enduring

fond

has

"

was

in

the

the

nightcap

cripple"par-dessus

of

the

Terror, and

marked

Paris

also

the

the

the

"

of

or

dictatorship

Marshal
is old

"

hope
a

calist
Cleri-

the

Mac-

enough

under

discreet

the
tutor

Paris, after
astonishingly

how

path

Exhibition

of

restoration

year,

and

and

1878, that

vastatio
decuperation.
re-

she

completelyconvalescent, and

invalid

les moulins"

to

squibs and

convulsion,
unprecedented suffering,
in

was

vicissitudes of

successive

relation

triumphantly proclaimed herself

cast

and

astonishingfeatures

schoolboy

merest

for himself

candles, but

Versailles

female

progressed
It

of

stock

the

upon

holidaytripsto

seen

almost

the

"

scarcely came

uncompleted Septennate of

friend

wind-

"

blaze.

throughout the

the

taken

wonder-stricken

which

Legitimist intrigueswhich

Thiers

have

boot, in

the

litan
cosmopo-

September, 1870

Roman

to dwell

unnecessary

and

to

to

and

the

from

bouquet

only their remaining

wheels

golden rain, each

more

"

play
dis-

gala

who
Imperial pyrotechnists,

the

expected by

Siege,the Commune,

the

of

kind, but

its

all France

presentedby

the

came

4th

the

on

to set not

and

last

At

crackers, Catherine

Empire

of

shower

new

prolonged and

truly astonishingafter
the

beholding

were

you

each

more

occurred

which

up

; and

Paris

Empire

Second

the

coruscatingrockets, elicited

of

ascent

new

of

spectacle of continuously recurring

though

as

soap-bubble,in December,

duration

present

was

of

manner

the

Throughout

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

34

and
;

the

crutches

of

the

still,
although it chanced

16

JOURNEY

different shades
which

is at

of

opinionwho

and

blood

"

and

paper,"

which
in

which

This

the

North

is, indeed,
the

May

moon

Such,

build

those

and

The
of the

of

times

now.

just
down

Little

the

on
bibliopole

of

volumes

the
"

present in

"

for

the

Gaulois

Hat

Boulevard

the
des

Correspondence
francs

seven

Paris

sets

more

necessary,

Stanley."

du

their
book

"

wish

ing
of wander-

as

brilliant

date

the

bear

to

of

last week."

the

the

only curious
have,

Grey Great

sign
as

Coat

shop fronts. Imperialism

market, for

Italiens
Roi

the

sustenance, have

say,

sign of

Africa."

of

Bonapartist organs

from
in

when

which,

is not

flotillas

penetrate to

devout

of
intelligence

well-known

low

to

spondents
specialcorre-

Hubert

shall

papers

used

The

the

very

the
the

Cocked

evidently rules

set

deceased

conversion

rule, taken
and

daily

contain

Sir

for all intellectual

French

English chroniqueur
to-morrow

from

be the

great English

interior

the

remodelling

maintain

even

flotilla which

least,should

at

Englishmen, who,
peruse

and

Pole

"approbation

Gaulois

of

six

news-bearingships,and,

to meet

to

penetrate

staff of

singlemetropolis,and

out

go

frequentlyhave

independent

"

an

of "the

the fashion

their

of the most

one

its intention

announces

after
foreignintelligence

newspapers,

has, with

Gaulois

of

present understood

at

of
public protestations

any,

it

see

enemies

these

but

;
as

like to

would

witnessed, become

amusing volte-facesever

Republic

Democratic

who

"

anti-Republicanism. (The

its

the

Fraternity
few, if

make

practised

liberal

hate

fire to-morrow

Liberty,Equality, and

and

SOUTH.

present predominant, and

destroyedin

and

DUE

offered

Joseph

fiftycentimes.

the entire

me

"

obliging

an

ten

"

octavo

Literary taste

stronglyin favour

of

"

raw

at

head

and

FEW

bloody

Empire,

HOURS

bones

Claude," sometime

Chief

perhaps

the

audacious

senisms

ever

Casanova
As
who

"

most

memoir-

since

their

writer

Claude

charm

of M.

which

an

Claude's

diary of

Take, for instance, the wondrous

by

the

Chief
Alguazil-in-

ex-

the

Napoleon

Emperor

that

chronicler

with
associating

of

Cite
a

and

Blanc," in the Rue

of the

scum

Sbirro

crime

of the
the

Napoleon

Second
Great

Empire
"

his boots

grumbling

M.

"

dans

Claude

Napoleon,

le
has

the

1831

It

Louis

in the habit
of the

Charmeur,"

he

was

tapisfranc, the "Lapin

in

was

the

Paris

midst

of the

that, if this

is to be believed, the

indeed
at

the

; and

the

the

slaves

nasty flavour

temps," they swallowed

not

cious
vera-

Prince

lost creatures

Le

"

this

ex-

nephew

of

organised Bonapartist conspiracies."

dead

is very

which,

the

ing
concern-

from

sabots, was

profligacyin

and

Alack, Caesar
are

of

name

Feves.

aux

stories related

learn

and

plain

detective.

We

of that notorious

habitue

the

on

III.

and

and

ingenuitywith

de Jerusalem

year

tions,
narra-

merit

Rue

bandits
the

in the

embroidered

the

Jacques

his

The

of the

blouse

the

that, under

well-known

dull.

cock-and-bull

about

Napoleon, disguisedin

of

exceptionallyshrewd

not

Munchau-

in
probability

often

been

fibs has

ribald

Canler,
predecessor,

performance consist

arabesque of

tissue of the

his

of

consequentlyvery

was

of

notoriety.

beats

bounds

is

Surete, which

Memoirs

"

scandalous

rarely oversteppedthe
and

the

Monsieur

of

de

collection

Second

of the

Memoirs

"

Police

of the

published
achieved

disparagement

so-called

the

17

CITY.

DELIGHTFUL

THE

stories in

"

in

related

IN

so

slightestdoubt

pseudo-associateof

the

of the

licked

blacking

greedily.
that

"

who

Prince

Chourineurs

Louis
"

and

"

Prince

of

reticence
"Charmeur."

treatises

memorable

of decollation

Louis

in

of the

character

and

1852
The

Rue

the

of

been

ever

Fils," who

"le

one

naval

the

best

published,and
the

painlessness

Felix

and

the

Republican
Second

the

Pyat,

exile in

"

Paris

in

Savoy

the

remotest

or

as

bitterly

Raspail

Man

of

he

after

that, had

he

disparagingthe

manner

write

as

1857, five years

in

not

Socialist.

Empire

inconceivable
literally

December,

and

Blanqui,

as

ing
Wander-

"

would
in

have

held

rose-water

his

between

1857.

streets

been

the

Coup d'fitatweek

the

bombardment

old

surroundinglabyrinthof

but

the
I

locality.

Palais
preserve

It

was

on

de
a

Justice

Honore,

in
I

cellar of the

foul
have

livelyremembrance

the

Thursday

that, having passed the merry

of Paris
St.

the

against

over

demolished

of the horrible

d' Albion, Rue

and

Feves

aux

criminal

long since

and

Republicans did

Red

peace.

has

with
of

son

it is

anything

known

Bnd

as

and
Coup d'fitat,

the

wrote

Mysteriesof

Napoleon

died

did; he

Sue

irreconcilable

Barbes,

Armand

ever

"

an

was

hated

that

his

guillotine.

the

"

Jew

famous

/strenuouslydenied

essay

of the

author

The

as

by

the

who

XYL,

graphic anatomy

on

who, in

Louis

to

about

Hence

Rodolphe

was

Sue

of the

I.

Napoleon

Prince

Eugene

grandson

the

surgeon

was

M.

Now,

and

of

surgeons

identity of

the

to

as

surgeon,

of the

one

"

cogently remarks,

ex-detective

the

Sue,

his

made

Paris

de

Mysteres

Sue's

Eugene

Gerolstein, who

of
Les

"

of

prototype

Duke

public in

Eugene

son

the

was

Grand

the

to

M.

1842.

He

1831,

Rodolphe,

first bow

was

of

"

Goualeuses

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

18

Hotel

season

de

determined, in company

Lille
with

of
of
et
a

The

porter of

the

young

Rodolphe

and

Tortillard,the

were

dancing with

It

Oite.

and

habit

of

when

in Punch,

you

Muffled

the

"

makes

member

of

garb

over

our

for the

Englishmen

John

by

Proctor

of the

they

made

and

caricatured

Leech

to

say

youth

day, "I beg pardon, sir

with

thought

we

terrier ?"

Scotch

and
wrap-rascals,
eyes,

campagne,"

monstrously rough

University,or

the

hirsute

in these

up

of

Oxford

an

de

the

at

way

sillyyoung

overcoats

overcoats

fashionable

slouched

hats

wearing

he

in the

are

period when

our

took

we

blouses whom

day before,

the

and

Rouge
So

tenue

en

of the

sweethearts

the

about

was

hairy texture

arrayed

the

"

but

full of

heads

the Chouette.

officers,

shooting down

in the

were

the

Cite.

attempt

our

on

the

of

Bras

Thursday night,looking in

Valentino, where

been

Marie,

d'ficoleand

Salle

had

English fools,with
de

19

CITY.

againstthe

us

Fleur

Maitre

the

fiacre on

but

DELIGHTFUL

THE

warned

hotel

just two

were

Prince

IN

English friend, to explore the penetralia

young

we

HOURS

FEW

wideawake

ourselves

very

disguisedindeed.
picturesquely
The

tapis franc of the

tables

was

bedgown,
to be

fat

little old
who

treated

originalFleur
Bacchante
in

in

man

blouses

de

there

did not

blue
in

mob

of

There

apron.

cap

"

an

at

was

and

bitter disappointme

was

Ogress

of the

one

blue

"

checked

excessively
tipsy,and vehemently implored
cassis

more

Marie

scattered

molest

of

on

the

about

and
us.

the

dark

being the
this

Beyond

mentioning.

possibly,on
In

of her

score

Sue.

Eugene

little worth

was

probably thieves,
they

woman

was

to

"

Blanc

Lapin

the ^counter, instead

Behind
there

"

and

The

dirty

all likelihood

elderly

few

men

room

occasion,murderers
they arrived

old

were

but

at

the

20

JOUKNEY

conclusion

natural

very
come

there

escort

of

to

"

police outside

given signal.
unattended
heads

it

As

and

for

broken

the

when

moment

robbed

during

Blonde

"

M.

Claude
I

"

"

vieux

who

English
passed

misty

about

manner

respectivelyClarke
his information,"
of

"

Chinese

One

of

societyin

Claude
M.

most

Biche

at

I remember

Claude

M.
"

Miss

off

being

Palmer,"

bar, and
"

as

with

an

Inspector

Force, Scotland

had

the

Londres"

refreshment

Yard.

apparently heard

in

named
English police-officers,

two

Druscovich,
gentleman

did

and

had

in the

the

one

Zola

under"

astonishingphases of
is,perhaps, the

France

on

gravely convinced
and-th

the

France

young

on

Emile

as

about

"

so

combined

well-known

case

Metaphysics."

of the

placed by

and

de

himself

the

Napoleon's inter

1867, by

imperfectly-informedClaude

some

our

shreds

Cafe

the

Louis

quartier

year,

to

place,and

Clarskovich," of the English Detective

The

and

gotten

invented

especiallyabout

of the

English pickpocket

tear

has

about

"

Exhibition

Venus

have

dining at

was

well ;

and

the

at

appearance

to

will

explosion took

very

Howard;"

"Miss

sufficient

quite unarmed

were

we

critics

Waping,

le

"dans

view

had

we

their

to make

the

1858
the

Orsini

Felice

Count

that

had

pains.

which

plot of

and

certainlydeserved

our

Orsini-Pieri

foreignerswho

were

show,"

happened,

we

fables

monstrous

we

ready

little douht

have

that

the

see

SOUTH.

DUE

in the

other.

of the

stories

the
The

about

the

fables

"realistic"
press,

veracityof

existingcondition

apparently implicitfaith

melodramatic

hand, and
the

the

the

ex-

as

of Monsieur

revelations

rule,seems

of

to be

thief-taker's "blood-

Emperor Napoleon

III.

and

22

of the
we

curiouslyminute

studies

industryand

to the

owe

DUE

JOURNEY

SOUTH.

of the

when

the

moral

and

restraint
the

that

Sade's

of Terror

Reign

"

Justine

Palais

Royal.

Paris

for the

acquainted with

at

time

no

drama, and

the

have

time

no

art

But

during

my

I do

an

the

and

happily

to

have

parallellines

in

least,so I hope

Paris

have

astounding exhibition

that

the

of

the

will

"

at

shop-

"

pictorial
do

but chieflyphotographic indecency,as they

plastic,

and

the

of literature,

declare
unhesitatingly

most

that

me

matters

run

at

"

with

farers
way-

Indeed,
straightlaced.

very

said

shop-

intimately

named

I have

acquaintance with

presentedsuch

windows

be

may

in

been

agree

may

de

Marquis

sale

proprietyin

to

as

met, and

never

converge.

never

capitalbeen

English ideas

and

which

gay

loosened

forty-two years,

period which

the

during

of the
printsellers
French

last

of

bonds

the

of the mad
for

Gon-

extent,

an

become

Well, I have

equal senioritywith myself

of

great

so

decorum

common

de

brothers

height, had

openly exposed

were

of the

windows

its

to

picturesillustrative

scandalous

"

of

that

at

was

even

of the

research

mentioned
court, it is incidentally

Revolution, which

First

at

present moment.
indelicate

The

normally

French

so-called

the
forth

which

are

concern

the

find the

eternal

French

their

other

in order

sex,

the

sold

Petit
at

cremiere, rather

Journal

inabilityof
to

Hire, and

pour

so

kiosques, mainly

extort

unamusing.

apt

are

cocottesto

money

things pleasantwith

trite and

the

Amusant,

English people

desperate attempts
to make

the

Boulevard

the

to the

"

Journal

themselves.

allusions

rent, and

and

papers

Parisienne, the

Vie
"

"comic"

embellish

which

illustrations

the

pay
from

to

their
the

concierge

It is the

same

with,

FEW

IN

HOURS

"

anecdotes

"

the

Triboulet

Gil

Bias.

like

long-sinceexploded Joe

and

the

in Boulevard

which

Millers

frequented by English

and

arcades

Bivoli

of the

are

nearly

the

Rue
One

about

as

de

the
read

witticisms
with

doubles

unseemly productionsof
to do

with

thoroughfaresmost

in the

Under

visitors.

American

in the

numerous

and

Voltaire

in

and

they literally
swarm,
Boulevard

the

they
in

Capucines arid

des

Vivienne.
is

tolerablysure

anything,and

sedulously
"

subdue

to

Rue

finds

nothing whatever

have

called,abound

properlyso

23

one

garnished

the

hut

which

laboured

these

argot

speak, and

of

CITY.

the

Tintamarrc,

bulk

The

cntcndres

fine art

DELIGHTFUL

professedly funny

the

which

THE

if he

the

be

to bear

zeal.

example,

For

French

gentleman,

thingsin general,and
in

Licence
knitted

arms,

voulez

Que

"

his

of

views

against

whom

to

more

endeavour

he
in

enthusiasm

was

Liberty as

about

particular,
shrugged his

his brows,

expressionof disapprovalof
choses," said

the

grows

should

passion

Talleyrand's sapientcaveat

from
contradistinguished

shoulders, folded his

publicwriter

towards

in mind

recentlytalkingabout

flyinginto

sagacious writer"

things,and

in

wrong

older

tendency

any

be

to

the

and, with
"

Ces

centrated
con-

ordre

existing

monsieur

vous,

de

voyous

triomphent."
Now,
land,
"

les

to

it would
say

be

in the

that

voyous,"

"

or
"

very

the

unmannerly
France

Gavroche

triumphant.

the

pavement

the

dictum
philosophical
ostensibly

the

effect

that

are

France

is

in me,

of the

existingdispensation

party/'or
Much

governed

stranger in the

"

gentlemen

to my

more

I heard
under

the

the
a

mind

other

system

of

was

day, to
of leases

JOURNEY

24

in

varying
rule

they

duration

has

expired out

and

eighteen years.

renewed, although,the

strictest

in the

SOUTH.

four

between

never

are

DUE

But

repairingones.

sense

the

goes

often

sued

Revolution

"

which,

placed
Vive

"

enthusiasm

1814

in

*or

"

"

is another

there

wrong

Toutes

but

se

is to

be

the
of

by

showers

of

time, and

of

of the

or,

masquerade,

its

burning brimstone

that

the time in

and

the

and

Niagara,

Bell

!"

of

is to

right

come

the

worst.

Rabelais

wrote
next

prejudiced
un-

!"
that

for

or

in

act

say ?

It

this

is the

destruction

of Paris

is

question

merely

is

brief

ship of

the

the

one.

politically
wholly

Scylla and

Rock, and

and

in

the

wrote
et Moi

shall

that

"

widely embracing

fin,"

Figaro that France

combination
the

best

marl

all

Bourbons

questionis an extremely

and
disorganised,
a

heard

It will all

the

priately
appro-

enseigne put up by

rather, the

journalsthat

been

and
difficulty,

who

waste.

inscription

an

of the

leur

vers

for

have

Femrae

ma

wight

unanimity

le Roi

is for the

end,

Clericalist

on
rapidlydrifting

Rapids

All

the

opinionof

demoralised

Roi,

out

meuvent

French

opinionof

It is the

in time.

choses

marvellous

Yive

slightest

Republique

the

submissively astonished.

"

what

way

le

"

restoration

"

la

thunderous

philosophyand

Vive

"
"

Perhaps

the

on

Vive

"

le Roi

best of all.

the

simply and

be

it lasted.

is

history,has

with

Yive

"

its broad

coiffeur

French

side

"

hail

lease

luckless

freehold

rally
gene-

the

the

the

the

de

fin

yelled with

Paris

sense

But

and

hairdresser

was

common

by

"

while

"

Paris

the

1'Empire
cries in

three

de

periods in
side

of

owner

cause

pour
divers

at

the

hy

hut

are

when

without

only

tenant, not

compensation for improvements made,

is very

contracts

As

State

Charybdis,

Goodwin

is
the

Sands,

hitherto

undreamt

It is the
MM.

with

At

buy

fire ; and

the

French

Leon

enter

you

are

the

Admiralty.
that

Rappel

Hilaire,in conjunction

melting

cataclysm will

of M.

that
wax

precipitated

he

the Boulevards

on

countless
tired of

never

like

away

Gambetta.

shop

of the

one

workmen

art

is

Africa

to power

pair of gloves,or

to the

25

rapidlyruiningthe country ;

are

national

that

time, if

same

CITY.

St.

de

Barthelemy

in North

army

DELIGHTFUL

Intransigeant and

the

Farre,

accession

THE

hy the hydrographer

and

General

the

by

of

Ferry

French

before

IN

opinion of

Jules

the

HOURS

FEW

nicknacks

to

which

producing, French

or
shopkeepersof selling,
English simpletonsof purchasing,the

lady behind

the

things are

to how
of her

going, rub

smiles, and

sweetest
The

weather

affaires marchent
crammed

by night and
the

to be

seem

At

was

was

so

"

good

his

'"'

portion

which

he

like.

That

can

smile
cheerfully,

The

is

why

pretty tiny kickshaws

artful

last

les
are

vard
Bouleand

1867

Sunday night a

dining at

grumble

francs

is with

It

keep

head

the

waiters

table to

next

fiftycentimes

I had

his hands

the

French

because, forsooth,he

and

at which

before

"

cafes

fashionable

the

him

seen

extremest
off small

for the
and

his

difficulty
delicacies at

peck, grapes, nuts, radishes,prawns,

can

still

permanence.

to

as

rainy lately;

at

one

ingly.
going charm-

Exposition pricesof

en

of grapes

Frenchman

and

inquiriesas

your

est content."

wife, was

lady pensively pecking.

that your

old

of four

sum

hands

rather

restaurant

ill-advised

charged the

slender

been

established

with

to

answer

reply that things are

by day,

fashionable

very

gentleman who,
mine,

has

her

et tout le monde

restaurants
1878

will,in

counter

and

such

place platefulsof

him, in order

that

he may

the

peck

and

the

pay

of the hand

blufflywaves

Frenchman

who

in

raisin et

and

one

he

be

had

"

he

opined,would

been

such

expose

be

mal."

scathing

brigandage.

Such

article,

an

ment
advertise-

excellent

an

un

sumed.
con-

pas

asseverated;

publishedto

prietor,
pro-

dame,

sa

moquait

s'en

"

newspapers,

half

was

oil,explained

lui et

"

proprietorsweetly smiled.

urbane

lightsarcasm,

with

the

to

article should

the

between

It

urbane

The

neatsfoot

as

exasperated client

write

newspaper

Again

grapes

"

The

would

for

"

demi

sweet

that

The

away.

for perhaps
shillings

declared.

he

and

soft

motion

fairly infuriated.

was

grapes

monstrous,

was

voice

dangerous delicacies

the

exasperated client

to the

He

of

with

Englishman

charged nearly four

was

four-pennyworth
scandalous, it

shrewder

The

more.

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

26

for his establishment.

observation, I could not help thinking,bordered

This

and

dame

fairlyroused

like Mrs.

looked

de

"a

comptoir

gens

"le

charged

vie

me

eight francs
to be

piece of

comme

for

conceited

black

fair

for

her

But

she

as

precincts. The

The

"

urbane

tiny ration

the

at

out

of

gaily that

me

did

first

stand
under-

not

creature

cooking was

give the

swept

of haricot

the

and

landlord, who

to

who

to

she

"

plumes,

omit

"

"

mind

swear

can

companion

"

which
partridge,

quail.

ally,
paid eventu-

ostrich

Stranger

remedy.

no

Frenchman

his

Sunday folk

il faut."
francs

three

"

was

Frenchman

ally of mine, whispered

evidently

were

did

The

"

there

only a

as

with

extortionate

ancient

very

in

The

nor

hat

Haller

expensiveand

the

ces

is

swearing

away

Gainsborough

wore

is

went

he

when

it.

knew
proprietor

urbane

The

But

unblushinglyimpudent.

the

on

slightly

had

beans

glance

jus"
and

I took

admirable,"the

FEW

service

urbane

be

shearer

until

that

It

you

that

fleeced,

so

the

cities

of

first

was

with

willing

nod

the

where

where

no

roar

plain

thinks

one

and

what
"

city,

even

with

comes

and

Astonishing

one

city,

ambrosial,

since

years

27

CITY.

very

many

where

Astonishing

to-morrow

whelmed

is

establishment.

and

DELIGHTFUL

Pontet-Canet

the

have?

would

to

perfect,

THE

IN

HOURS

rush,

fleeced

likes

one

invites

of

such

at

the

to-morrow

as

those

II.

MARSEILLES.

AT

LIFE

KNOW

been

systematically

so

Marseilles
disian

for

into

has

each

brought

was,

as

good

deal

of

periodical

that

happened

and

of

influx

frequently
night,

in

keepers,

order

of

"

laid

to

"

over

at

repair

the

des

children

and

although

tissues,"

and

the

by

the

largely
and

with

fatigued
for
and

stay.

drivers,

Victoria

Marseilles

spend

to

their

cab-

the

Queen

home-returners,
"

of

hours

Malle

Anglo-Indians

profited

lieges

the

the

few

the

days

and

contrived

they

the

Alexandria

ladies

home-returning

Cannebiere

the

"La

city

Indian

travellers,

from

steamer

of

Brin-

the

In

of

PhocaBan

briefest,

the

restaurant

of

tradespeople

0.

the

of

yore.

Marseillais

these

during

money
and

hotel

The

of

rule,

of

therein

sojourn

of

hotels

colossal

of

than

officers, civilians,

British

of

host

be

lot

the

British

ordinary

and

P.

of

departure

among

good

all

incoming

three

the

voyage,

by

regretted

Indes,"

fallen,

there
the

been

substitution

of

point

it has

as

the

disparagement

sorer

even

fondly

the

Massilian

the

if

have

"

since

and,

Marseilles

mail,

to

be

to

which

maltreated

and

tourists

by

"

cities

affluent

ignored

indifference

in

ill-usage

and

populous

few

very

27.

September

MARSEILLES,

it
the

sea

whole

that,

also

day
in

the

30

francs.

JOURNEY

"Nothing

Figaro ;
would

have

for nine

I knew

in the

withdrawal

Marseilles
blow

of

three

sufferers,for chief

among

the

succeed
possibility

in

do is to

city.

him

induce

"

is his

alighted at
bien"
or

the

the

1867

Petit

Blanc,

Cambrai

it

one

contest

was

of

1870

of

"

he
He

the

to

there

my

want

to

sleep.

cafe.

At

consequently

that

"on

du

has

not

est

tres

Commerce,
be

all

an

him
All

that

hos-

many

France

of

summer

What

does

hotel, in which

there

and

only

the

an

he

smoking-rooms ?
auberge

"

requires

"

real
the
are

Yery

placewhere

in

the

he
conviviality

watering-place, a

over

preceded the

comprehension.

with

Pas

"

he

why

should

passes

smoking, reading,conversation, and

the nearest

any

to

abroad.

or

loggerheadsin

An

eat and

by

province concerningwhich

little.
can

greatest

cannot

you

Hotel

false starts which

is

the

were

so
Constantinople,

to

drawing-rooms, reading

one

the

or

ladies'

hotel

adds

of the

ordinaryFrenchman

knock-down,

is asked

Why

nearly fell

so

not

country

reply when

Cheval

sign

who

service from

transit

first-class,and

own

Hotel.

Germany
"

in his

Luxembourg.

the

by

exulted

jour."

things which

Grand

Continent, from

telries
and

the

at

jour.'*

des Indes

giant hotels

stay in

to

usual

the

fin,

persuading the ordinaryFrenchman

expensive, hotel, either

si bete

du

diner

"

tin

Britons
travelling

but
staggering,

The

to

the

Malle
of

du

jour, he

du

diner

including the

Anglo-Indian

the

administered

the

diner

"

the

about

of hundreds

the

overcharged/' quoth

more,

of the

halcyon times

nothing about

The

and

nothing

weekly patronage

knew

be

to

ordered

had

enjoyed as much,

francs/'

Marseilles
in the

if Monsieur

but

"

said

be

can

SOUTH.

DUE

la bonne

way

obtains

of
at

heure,"

AT

LIFE

much

as

the

although on
of ten

out

cases

excursion
from

"

"

"

which
of

brilliant

most

latelyread

Cafe

morning

every

de

Foy

I wander

order

to

over

make

from

in

de

the

on
travelling

of the

one

should
I

la Madeleine

to

"

from

evening

Montmartre

indefinite number

an

young

when

every,

to the Boulevard

but

protest against

livelywriter,

travel

can

dissuading

feuilletonby

nine

his vehement

wrote

age

Cafe

the

franc

one

pay

bougies, and

I
can

the

the

Why

of kilometres

fiftycentimes

each

acquaintance of

far

in

fabulous

hitherto

unknown

"

fleas ?
Thus

the

produced

of

surcease

for

of the

caisses

season

at

this

port

for

Hotel, in the' Rue

residing,and
past, is

which
not

Marseilles.

by

hotels

Ere

commercial

any

"

used

means

"

in the

vacuum

to be

the

am

these

full.

persons

of steamers
world.
for

which

The

Grand

the

fifteen

Indeed,

fairly

other hand,

travellers and

the

Indes

long,however,

oh

lines

parts of

des

be said

are,

Noailles, where
have

Malle

agreeable

innumerable

most

de

La

present they may

with

in the

passage

of

from

middle-class

continuously crowded
taking

clientele of

far

hotels

grand

The

prosperous.

the
a

and
they recuperated,

years

from

des Italiens

Boulevard
should

when

"

the

seilles,
Mar-

his annual

"

essayists."Why

livingFrench

expatriatemyself," asked
travel

in

but

inclination

of

hope

Continent, is amusingly reflected

tourism

leave

the

of the Elizabethan

English gentlemen

"

in

Vadis?"

from

who

Bishop Hall,

old

and

necessity;

travels

not

"

like

you

watering-place.In

excepted

eaux

aux

is not

sea,

as

typicalFrenchman

the

tractate, "Quo

the

conversation

and

company

31

MARSEILLES.

present
sixteen,

or

during
c

the

32

heats, only the

summer

floors

the

kept

are

Imagine

the

Washington

September

du-Ehone

and

land

Cheval

the

cityon

bourn

at

and

and

which

bear

pray

absorb

the

vast

Commerce,

and

in

mind

the

commercial

travellers

du

that

pool,
Liver-

Bouches-

the

it is the

but

of

the

by

Petit

sea

of the

inns

bourg
Luxem-

speaking

am

end

the

than

vast

countless

majority of

and

cityof

in
particularising

not

am

which

or

three-fourths

more

Mersey,

disembark:

Blanc, the Hotel

"

the

Western,

June

not, any

watering-place. The

embark

class

is

visitors.

of

North-

beginning of

the

Marseilles

Yet

is,like

entrepot, and

and

London

first

the

and

ground

accommodation

the

the

between
!

the

on

rooms

or

SOUTH.

Liverpool,shutting up

at

fashionable

DUE

for

open

Adelphi

their bed-rooms
of

JOURNEY

rally,
gene-

nomenclature

hotel

strangerswho

"

to

come

Marseilles.

During
often
and

the

the

resorts

November

to

"

March,

with

having been,
cleaned

out

speak, in
the

seems

than

"

to Cannes

dire stress

city has
more

from

impair

more

or

for

Nice,

travelling,
the

or

is

There

"

have

lovely

also,from

Monte

at

less

ready cash,

mercantile
write

down

thrown

backing the

red

"

or

the

ing
plung-

Carlo, and

who,

promptitude, satisfactorily

pleasant Inferno,

respectableto
the

or

who

of

way

et

that

at

like easy

tolerablyshady contingentof Britons

in the

pair

"

who

di Levanti.

in the Riviera

Fortune

the

on

of

families

their way

on

hotels do better,being

grand

the

and sportingturn
speculative

gauntlet to

"

months

halting-placeof

of invalids

health

of

winter

at

and
home

"

wash

up,"

Marseilles.

moneyed
thence

Albergo dei Bancherotti

at

The

sound

to

so

name

; and

it

for remittances

Monaco,

or

the

AT

LIFE

Hotel

des Grands

33

MARSEILLES.

Degommes

Boulevard

the

on

de

la

Con-

damine.
At

Grand

our

been,

tables-d'hote

at

observant

and
of

masters

sunburnt

from

from

Canton

Java

cadaverous
and

English

French

again a
any

burning

sun

nothing

draped

of Ind.

with

curtains

or

High

that

Holborn

bowls

of

yet

festoons

might prizeand

to be

is not

decked

with

with

the
and

silk

kings,

white

duck

Pondicherry ;
Chinese

darin
Man-

to

by

return

windows

yet

are

brocade

Laguerre might

stead

are

an

which

is

propriat
ap-

sky,

azure

brilliant flowers.

From

Wardour-street

begums adore.

But

awhile.

The

epergnes

and

lighted yet
monstrous

sub-tropical
plants.

maroon-coloured

richlycorniced

so

Indian

to be

faience full of flowers

statelychairs, covered

of

million-

it understood, has

Its

and

crystal chandelier

crystalchandelier

salle is not

their

fled,not

are

deeply coved,

In

leave

on

hues, stiffwith

of many

of Yerrio

there.

clouds, and

depends

centre

So

Saints

the

sprawl
roseate

days

pristinesplendour.

gorgeous

less exhausted

or

equerries,

and

or

salle-d-mangcr, be

Our

of its

ceilingthat

Those

more

with

Dutch

sham

I have

of Cassation

home

Mauritius
or

by,

meet

suits of

Rajah,

have

and

tea

snowy

of ladies

number

bullion-tasselled.

and

to

Court

the

we

deferentially

officers ; solid

from

real Hindoo

again,perchance.

and

of

in

Governors

gone

used

we

American

and

Shanghai,

or

; and

lost

days

chamberlains

auditors

English soldier

young

naires

now

grandees

and

in

imposing,

more

prefects,Imperial

requests

Noailles

de

Rue

Anglo-Indian generals, coming

dashing

the

the

yet

Such

guest.

Senators

its

in

imposing settle-d-mangcr, where,

most

the

Hotel

morocco,

are

The
not

34

to be

yet

tables-d'hoie

board.

ample

Maison

Doree

opposite.

of the

by

so

glad, somehow,

am

pioneer half-dozen,

the

six

should

their gory

locks at

d-manger

this

me.

morning

that

did

purposes,

and

it seemed

haunted.

Not

the

spectre of

one

the

the

that

fancied

chairs

and

the

mainder
re-

occupied

were

blood-boltered

it

all too

make

not

as

refecting at

into
peeped furtively
while

one

the

to

was

morocco

dusting

by

down

have

of them

some

sat

that

maroon-coloured

Banquos,

many

but

had

They

winter

The

proud.

the

yet commenced.

not

yesterday,but only

d'essai

coup

of

have

and

mighty

the

occupiedby

SOUTH."

DUE

JOURNEY

shaking

sallepalatial

for

temporarilyopened

was

to

that

me

La

Malle

the

des

place

was

Indes, but

by

entirelydifferent speciesof phantom.

an

Let

explain

me

present,next

to

Cremieux

Gaston

Marseilles

little.

Paris

anti- clerical

most

of the

Galliffet

years

from

the
Constantinople,

stall at

the

railway station,who

etait
the
that

Caporal, hinted, with

encore

Bonapartiste;

majority of
is

the

changed.

entirelypurged
as

of

inferior
The

Radical

; and

Madame

an

"

was

Democratic

type

court-martial
Some

most

lady'shusband

coming

Petit

the

France

of advanced

of drum-head
ever.

fair

the poor

"

advocate

than

Lyons,

city in

reactionarygeneral
sentence

and

Marseilles, they tell

in

sold

1871

distinguished

paper

Corsicans

Imperialism ;

IntransigeantSocialists

the

"

Le

la gare

notorious
; but

that
all

apparently been

working

of the

called

that

employes

has

last,

newsvendor's

was

station

by

rated
vene-

here

and, indeed, it
were

shot

more

was

the

at

me

is

"

approving nod,

railway

the

Yeuve

to be

caused

lady

and

opinions,whom

since, when
old

is at

me,

classes

reddest

are

hue, and

scribed
dethe

LIFE

shopkeepers are
the

of
"No

The

the

monks

even

that

local

that

and

The

Clovis

been

Yoitures
the

Hugues,

de Place

innumerable

the

Association

the

of

"

"

Reunion

des

"

Revillon
have

the

"Free-

late

yelled

de

Cochers
"

Civil interments

is

have

they

by

Marseillaise
their

Condorcet

"

des

They

Punch"

Penseurs."

of

hour.

are

night

at

country returning from

and
equally patriotic

to
distressing

seldom

Soeur

Petite

the

and

"Fraternal

hopes

the

the

an

of

nerves

sleepers.

very
to

from

Chateau

the

the

Not

the

to

is it to

L'Estacque

Notre

Second

less

de

Dame

Empire

"

la

of brick and
found

residential

left it of marble.

At

Paris, Lyons, and

and
sanitarily
filthy,

left them

least

other

less

carriages,and
found

Napoleon

III. and

The

the

Garde, haunted

Augustus

Marseilles
clean.

from

Roquefavour,

father, among

cleanliness.

it is Red

me,

to

things,of grand hotels, well-built

municipal and

satraps

d'lf

Radical
terribly

to be

grown

Joliette, from

of the

ghost

beneficent

has

finger tips.

Meilhan

the

heroes

Voltaire

Libres

; Marseilles

Yes

it is very

bastringues of this city of dram-shops,with

enthusiasm
unsound

at

; and

bacchanalian

by

the

are

Cabdrivers'

fashion

or

such

Council

Municipal

Intransigeantdeputies,Citizens Tony

entertained

thinking

great deal

believe, are

; and

Charity

that

prudently silent.

the

by

more

Sister of

givingconferenceson

been

with

reason

making

visible,nor,

any

the

sulkilyand

are

altogethervanished

meet

you

is

Marseilles

gentry

tolerated

have

Pauvres.

by

for
things,principally

religiousprocessionsare

manifestations

to

of

and
flourishing,

money.

35

MARSEILLES.

OpportunistRepublicans,gaily content

existingorder

trade is

AT

Rome
his

structurallyand
Rue

de

Noailles

3G

JOUKNEY

Cannebiere

"

or

The

Prolongee

of twelve

sum

Rue

Marseilles, was
three

ostensible

(t

old and

the

mission"
the

to open

was

of

hoped

of

financiers

to

into the

of the Rue
six

Credit

the

tenanted

pounds

by banks,

wide.

between

; its real

purport was

of

cash -box

tion
associa-

some

order, who

fondly

ranging between

rents

and

year,

all the

Boulevard

direct

and

for

the

Rue

de
the

speculationand

de Noailles

Second

at the

time

same

contrives to

hold

its head

up,

the

by

as

be in

Cannebiere

itself

virtually
part and parcel of

Regent

and
traditionally

Street

danger

of

evil

the

Cours

thoroughfareof

divertingly
proud.

flourishes Waterloo
into
falling

its

re-"

tendency.
luxuriously civilising

separatedfrom

are

and

jobbing,its

solelybecause

Marseillais

are

Empire,

defiantly,
simply and

is

the

de Noailles

Rue

too, somewhat

and

so

tariff of

"town-lot"

vanity and ostentation,but

and

TOpera.

of the

creations

forming, embellishing,and
The

Avenue

Prolongee and

deliberate

and

reflect its lust

pomp

or

the Cannebiere

Both
the

Haussmann

the

on

floors

agencies,

goldsmiths, milliners, porcelainwarehouses,

jewellers,
forth, all cheerfullypaying layers based

three

ground

oifices,steamboat

assurance

Its

mansions
statelysix-storeyed

Imperialeoccupied at
hundred

than

more

communication

Mobilier

flats of the

all the

see

up

of Marseilles

ports

new

seventy-five feet

long, and

splendid dividends

to pour

and

feet

thousand

is old

of which

street is

enterprise.The

Titanic

Republique,

la

summit

the

on

de

Rue

the

mous
enor-

francs.

thousand

hundred

eight

called

the

its construction

in

cost

mountain,

the
a

"

millions

Imperiale,now

piercedthrough

SOUTH.

DUE

case

Place
; and

and

that,

it is
St.

only

Louis,

which
So

the

long

will not, I take

it,

PiccadillyCircus

38

their

bawling
road- way

mules, their

"Vive
time

with

ruffled

"

fancy

"House

sad

of St.

and

It is the

Petersburg.

whisper,of

Last

the
But

Chersonese.

the

of

Khan

voice

phantom

Marseilles,is that of the late M.

and

is

There

Second

even

Empire

which

perhaps

"

fact that
ago,

in

the

Rue

for the

Imperiale,at

so

stands

Chateau

tremendous

on

Great

the

local

the admirable

short

audible

it.
is

cape

Reserve

this notable

political
memory

Imperial was
of
the

the

from

have

"

built

the

selves
them-

structure,
the
to

English
mention,

forgottenthe
sixteen

years

Imperialistenthusiasm

and

City

Napoleon III., shortlyafter

about

house.
Light-

content

guide-books omit

The

presented by

and

obtainable

as

the

overlookingthe

books

guide
of

view

outburst

apparitionof

pretentious
pileknown

dimensions

surrounds

adulation, and

Emperor

mourning

Mires, bewailinga Lost Cause

and

the

recitingthe

dwellingon

garden
or,

huge

compilersof

with
and

in the

between

Mediterranean
The

Palace

Russians
superstitious

of the

palpableand

more

Imperial, which

Chateau

low

wail, as

bubble.

bursten

of the

the Tauiida

Crimea

the

same

chaunts

dismal

and

the

moan,

at the

chimney-pot of

hoarse

is said to haunt

which

; but

the

on

low

and

Imperial eagle sitting

the

to hear

by

now

bags

cotton

heart

talons

between

and

oil.

and

of the

ghost

crushed

seem

the voice

as

the

spacious

horny protuberances,

with

all my

the

oxen

monstrous

wine

with

"

Let," while
"

by

now

heaped high

see

plumes
to

with

in

and

"

drawn

hogsheads of

that

Marseillaise

and

adorned

Republique !

la

SOUTH.

Marseillaise

"

vehicles

the

bales, with

cotton

DUE

toilingwains,

collars

and

eternal

few

JOURNEY

of

the

Marseilles

return

to

of that

the
ruler

39
AT

LIFE

from

not

his

laid

their

offering
in

dearest

had

where

his

lot

its

with

managed

find

to

has

been

the

Municipal
in

Paris

are

this

is

Khan

from

believe

end

it

to

be

Tarpeian

rock,

of

disestablished

with

haunted.

on

the

the

to

that

The

the

dynamite.

is

ten

Yet

tumbled

past

years

understood

that

in

of

Dome

For

an

people

common

Chateau

of

Ministry

authority

Pleasure

vested.

it

palace

and

as

he

these

was

cape.

which

over

It

stately

rocky

and

empty

marine
a

sea."

this

time

Imperial

Marseilles

squabbling

legally

end,

to

garden,

entirely

ominously

whisper

English

the

his

of

one

Marseilles

in

feet

of

length

any

that

at

"his

have

affable

Caesar's

nor

remarked

possess

Chateau

Council

of

fee-simple
Kubla

and

wholly

Works

The

completely.

very

would

to

Council

Municipal

the

Ca?sar,

he

been

for

enjoy

to

which

ever

he

high,

perched

of

which

of

feet

the

at

course

wishes

residence,

he

the

in

do

guide-books

The

Algeria.

to

address

fulsome

the

answer,

not

expedition

second

repeat

MARSEILLES.

Imperial

my

part,

Public

which

the

evanished

in

is

seilles
Mar-

mined,

firmly

III.

BOUILLABAISSE.

AND

FARE

SOUTHERN

MARSEILLES.

THE

table-d'hote

ready,
a

rather

or

sufficient

Second

for

which
To

the

is, in

whether,

in

the

Ship

Hotel,

the

wishes

of

his

with
table

"

very

visitor

the

which

devour

bread
leaves

the

un-English,"

it is

people,
tea-gardens,
in
and
of
the

the

ha^e

some

whole

in

and

been

accustomed

that

mysterious
of

which

their

hot

plant

of

acceding

It

to

served

be

to

out

those

which

ostensibly

symposium

in

at

time

in

water

doubt

manager

little

neat

would

be

so

may

ishing
dimin-

lamentably

now

and

Crustacea

Our

opine.

might

true,

and

yet

the

river.

the

to

manager

those

open

butter,

slopes

with

whitebait

his

and

the

practice.

desire

in

admirably.

Hotel

justified

expressed

zoutchje

lawn

Common

who

thought

arrangement

an

July,

or

feel

would

Greenwich,
a

June

hot

is

begin

to

yet

breakfast

we

English

an

it,

against

abnormally

an

salmon

on

is not

alfresco

being

banquet

Grand

the

at

1.

being

the

That

garden.

guest

general,

of

forth

not

not

guests

sdlle-d-manger,

the

one

meals

one's

climate

in

least

at

of

setting

Empire

Noailles

Hotel

average

the

present,

suits
take

daily

for

one

imposing
dine

the

Grand

the

at

October

are

of

mind

to

bivalves,

that

infused

the

of

Oriental

be

summed

vation,
deri-

up

in

genericterm
the

of

there

being made
What,

to possess

breakfasts

governing bodies

be

indignation of

and

being made
old

breakfastingand

jolly one,"

three

and

refined to echo

the

acquiescencein

knitted

the

Stay

strous
mon-

the

proposal

Spartan, thinks

capitalthing at

to

Hoddington loudly
be

out-and-out

of

too

course

slang,stillsimper and

arrangement which

an

"

an

Hoddmgtons,

brothers'

seilles.
Mar-

in

blush

their

"

for

they doubtless think exceedinglynice.

The

ling
travel-

pulpit exigenciesand

the

gencies
contin-

his felt wideawake

; and

Mehitabel, from
her

by

such

the

on

of Alderman

Miss

two

their rude

of bronchitis

with

summer

imagining

Senior

dining

big boys

clergyman, mindful

Aunt

cause

itself ?

with

committee

proclaimthe garden refection system

"

to

overlooked

accedingto

Polloddle, of the

Colonel

The

interieur

fortunate

to them.

out-of-door

their

mittee
com-

there is little fear of the

content

the

if the
so

was

coffee-room

that

be

of

inquirers.

premises were

sward

clubland

will

We

bridging

unusually sultry

an

green

of London

which

club

admitted

of social

Society say

of in the

instead

proposal.

Yet

the

beloved

my

thought worthy

part

of its

rear

during
on

reflection it must

horror

in

dinners

window

end

West-

served

be

the

think, would

garden

coffee-room

yet been

as

even

like to

and

to

season

not

in

classes

between

of the
practicability

gulf,the

fashionable

Brahminical

subjectof study on

I should
of

on

has

but

s'rimps,ninepence;"

the

is still a

of which

over

as

and

commonalty

country

and

tea

"

41

BOUILLABAISSE.

AND

FARE

SOUTHEKN

head

or

of

catarrh, wears
New

surmounted

fabric of

brightazure

England,
by

hue.

comes

wondrous
She

down

to breakfast

covering of
may,

with

some

tolerable

42

certainty,be
from
of

the

expected

breakfast
innumerable

and

in

appearance

spidersin

the

Potteries

the

air in

from

view

"

to

wickedness,

rest, when

alcoves

the

Nobody

of

asks

of her

Continental
there

code
from

was,

"

breeze

"

"la

enjoyed.
more

of

fresca"

I wish

of the

sun.

that
I

was

of

way

that,
the

of

morality,

the

poifttof

to
"

at

to

had

come

for three

twenty-one days it rained

The

Marseilles, and the

looked
here

weeks

wellthe

and

sooner,

to

of

hotel

rigged at
weather

evening

for

in

their

For

the
be

"

Scott

great awning
across

"

velarium

sky

take

may

"

Gardens.

terrace

anxiously

the

resembling the

is at its hottest,

for this

the

the

to Sir "Walter

old Vauxhall

terrace

is

"

from

of
totality

of Paris-

somewhat

sun

magnificentlyhot

been

s|ugar-

drinkingin

dinner-time, albeit it is just past Michaelmas.

has

the

conviction

eating and

streets

recesses

from

butter-dish,

in

paces

lady'sremark

the

noonday

the

Brownjohn

grand air," the

"

French

or

stretched

garden.

of

to choose.

supper-boxesof
the

is

much

pavement of

remembered

of 'the

custom

not

paraphrasethe
the

fresco

"

in

of her
secret

no

Sunday,

dread

Mrs.

whole

weather, the

of

repasts in

linen

the
make

would

Continental

about

al

that

daddy-long-legsin

that, were

Continental

who

the

upon

light than

table-napkins,snails

the

Those

thraldom

of frogs making^their
possibility

the

milk-jug,and

fine

the

"

put through

between

to look

other

any

Brownjohn,,

from

yet free

brought

in

Mrs.

normally reprehensible carryings-on

the

she
prejudices,

and

be

convinced

am

is not

table

foreigners.Apart

open

foregatherwith

to

cannot

dinner

or

SOUTH.

DUE

Potteries,who

prejudice,and

basin, I

JOURNEY

sea-

intensely
have

Brussels, and

had
out

pitilessly
during just eighteen.

One

began

to

feel

on

the

"

sprinkled

"

it

all events

the

Phocsean

cookery
its

the

in the

regular French

is the

This

meal

now

already has

omelettes

"

or

is

fourchette"
to

Nancy
melon

and

the

proper

kickshaws

in the

make

sardines, and

the

"

eggs
cutlets

on

the

two

plate,"or
two

disk

must

of

with

Lyons
black

"

"

"

it is

be

"bifteck,"

the

unloosened
la

from

big slice of

to

see

M.

le

radishes,the
then

"

even

pretty tiny

good

sausage

come

the

butter," the unchanging

of

tough

highly-blanchedshank-bones
"

few

there

it

over,

olives and

little knobs

oppositeextremities

cutlets, it

season

the

see,

dejeuner a

"

all France

of Jiors d'ceuvres

thin

The

and

there

Then
"

to

addition

"

to Bordeaux.

and

play with

of
consisting

adhering to
the

the

and

sword-belt

of

toast

revellingin

same

Brest

time

way

Commandant

the

much

from

Mmes,

at

"

pretty

kidneys,

modified

sautes.

or

uniform.

undress

his

of

buttons

three

have,

scrambled/'

la fourchette

off his

taken

he

of

may

be

may

Bonmorceau

le Commandant

is Monsieur

customs

tea, coffee,and

meat, the

dejeuner a

"

its

broiled fish and

quantityof potatoes,fried,stewed,

any

and

manners

the

eggs,

in

to be

and

Levant,

garden salle-a-manger you

loin steak, eggs

of tender

the

the

exigentAnglo-American palateby

more

moisture.

Marseilles

to

of

Gate

breakfast.

British

that

think

to

into malt.

are

cutlets,the cold

mutton

suit the

the

and

choose, the ham

traditional

at

sun,

down

being

was

external

much

so

Southern
is

that

couch," and

"

coming

cosmopolitanas

as

barley

worth

City

people. Thus,

if you

is

much

so

maltster's

was

duly roasted, by
The

like

43

BOUILLABAISSE.

necessarilyfollow

germination must
At

AND

FARE

SOUTHERN

meat

and

gristle

frilled
tastefully

la

pantalette." If

or

else

haply

"tete

it be not

de

veau

44

la

vinaigrette."The

and

due

collation

wind

must
other

with

up

Var, and

Walnuts

have

But, if
of
you

leave

the

like the

cuisine

of the

if
especially
to

dishes

Langue

he
garlic,

of

that

do

may

enjoy

even

the

not

the

as

that

will introduce

have

you

to

highly meaty sturgeon.

zoutchjelikewise, a

"

bouillon

"

de

which

prepare

in these

good
you
or,

deal

for the
as

local

functionarythat

no

butter

on

and

"

pathy
anti-

rooted

very
very

to the

characteristic
fond

are

of fish

of

or

pork,

Mediterranean,
is

kind

poissons,"made

and

of Phocaean
of

whitings,
rascasse.

dishes, into the preparationof all of

of oil and

garlicenters, will by degrees

consumption of

it should

cretion
dis-

is,the cookery of the

the

There

the

to the

of the popular
moraine, tafel,loup,and, in particular,

Indulgence

Rhone.

after next

taste of veal

tunny of

or

that

who

the

figs

promised for

are

some

Those

have

such, but

du

Bouches

is based

you

"

black

grapes,

oil,in contradistinction

on

d'Oil, which

thon"

"

that

"

cosmopolitan kind.
eat

to

dejeuner

bounteous

la fourchette

hint

le

M.

Marseilles, as in

be, the week

Midi"

du

tell him

you

the

the

and

white

dejeuner a

"

At

oranges

shall I

is based

Langue d'Oc, which

cookery

and

waiter, and

head
"

the

fruit.

figs from

Where

follow, or

is varied

in ; and

justcome

you

dessert

green

after next.

week

and

cheese

vegetable, French

incomplete,and

be

walnuts, black

includingpears,
the

would

cities,the

Southern

from

allowed

must
salsifis,

beans, cauliflower,artichoke, or
Commandant's

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

be

the world-famous

more

"

baisse,"
Bouilla-

correctlyspelt,

"

Bouil-

Abai'sse," or fish-stew.
A
about

prodigiousamount
this dish, which, in

of

has

nonsense

England,

at

been

least, owes

put

in

print

its celebrity

46

membered,

fullyon
Gulf

first that
a

SOUTH.

DUE

the

with

par

Mexico

of

JOUKNEY

Creole

that

crockery

of New

is

Orleans

the

and, next, that

of Provence,

Gulf

of

Lyons,

surprising
varietyof fish,important in size,firm

in

flesh,and

the

yields equally with

delicious in flavour.
To

to

the

that

the

come

point out

technics

highestauthority as

of this dish is the famous

of

Cuisinier

Le

"

on

advantage here,

the

the

than

it is

to
practicable

seventy

preparationof

of my

chop

their

my

; and

years

I have

offensive

to

production,nor

sentiments

of

persons
I

particles
; and

and
The
or

it is sufficient for

the teeth

between

to

produce

depravationsof

weighty Durand

Bouil-Aba'ise, that

Nimoise."

Touching

who

were

the

the

the

about

to

of

direst

is full
those

sion
expres-

cooks

esculent
of

who
to

grumous

granules to get

tions,
aberracomplications,

taste."

only admits
"

Garlic

one

in

give too strong an

those

the

having

garlic was

having subjectedthe

thorough preliminary scraping.

that

garlicin

it without

indignationtowards

garlicwithout

of

for

kitchen

the

used

whether

can

Writing

always maintained

never

the

most

selfcalmly justifiable

employment

ascertained

with

quoted

be

illuminated

I have

the

suppress

vations
obser-

Durand's

bouillabaisse.

with

I have

"

first instance

partake of

of

compounding

sea-fish.

slightestdegree

M.

author

the

guilty"bulb plays a

and

Eestoration, Durand,

more

the

rank

"

confection

chef Durand,

Nord."

to

necessary

to the proper

question of garlicmay

consciousness,remarks

in

du

et

since the

importantpart in
during

Provencal

Midi

du

vital

the

it is
houillabaisse,

of

la

two

kinds of Bouillabaisse,

Marseillaise"

Marseillaise

one,

and
the

that

"

la

followingis

FARE

SOUTHERN

the

In the

recipe:

chopped onion
should

be

moraine, your

of fish

but

then

are

chopped parsley and

from

which

The

whole

with

good

with

boiled

is then

mass

olive oil,and

made

from
and

down

covered
entirely
"

be

to

strained

by

the

through

contents

volume.
be

The

poured

fine

reduced

into

white

reduced

are

bread

what

"

symmetricallyarranged.

"

Bouillabaisse
in

soles,and
it is served
liver of

three eggs,

the

eels
up

differs from

admitted, and

with

fish called
some

slices of fish

The

sauce

made

the

among
that

from

to

original

is then

"

when

roll
are

that

the

Madeira.

to

of

been

served

rately.
sepa-

la Marseillaise"

"

fish red

the boiled

glassof

have

"

the

coction,

their

"

"baudroie," mingled with

good oil,and

set

slices of the crumb

French

term

we

that
particulars

are

be

heroic

of such

which

la Ximoise"

is to

Bouil-Abaise

"
"

the fish is

When

of
three-quarters

to

sauce

bouillon,zoutche,

trimmings," carefully

tamis.

means

deep dish, in

"

"

wetted

"

liquidthe stewpan

double-quickboil," until,by

the

and

the

liberally,

that

thoroughly
fish

some

fishes' head

tomato

little powdered saffron.

to be

and

some

expressed:

been

and
sprinkled,

it is then

slices

The

slice of lemon,

and

salt,pepper,

glassof dry white wine

broth

or

with

seasoned

loup,

langouste,

your

tail of him.

have

oil,

your

stewpan togetherwith

the

seeds

the

Then

fire.

and

rascasse,

garlic,a

and

water

little good

slices,notably your

only the

placedin

quantityof

small

the

over

be cut in

of this last

well-

whole

moment

whiting,your

to be

the

stewpan

placed. This, with

be

of sea-fish must

cray-fish
;

or

should

passed for

assortment
your

of

bottom

47

BOUILLABAISSE.

AND

mullet,

fish is cooked
and

pounded

the

yolks of

Instead
D

of

48

the

of tlie

sauce

in

bread

together, and
bread

of

Nimes,

the

whole

that

fried in butter.

minimum

of

mention

of

bouillabaisse
Of

whatever

nothing

the

is

Chemin

is almost

to

put

Is she

which

"

of

with

content

Arena, and

her

which
not

brags

Iladeau, and
Marseillaise

the

whole

as

ANEONYSID,"

the

in

got

should

that
the

on

dare

Nimes

in

the

de

matter

la Corniche

Cannebiere?

she

To

could

have

is

she

quite

Triumphal Arches,
remains
her

; whereas

her

seilles,
Mar-

antiquities,
possesses
past beyond

of

house

of

impudently asserted

votive tablet

only true,

garlicis

chose, but that

classic

bas-relief is
been

the

know

restaurants

Chemin

wall

erst

grimy

the

Hue

by

the

suspended in

the

Masilio-DelphicApollo, because, forsooth, the

dim

outline

sailor,a ship'sprow,

with

"

about

of

encrusted

to have

if she

much

so

sculpturepresentsthe
habited

she

peerlessRoman

which

of the

the

at

Carree, her

solitarymonument

little bas-relief

temple

other

Nimois

the
that

they ask,

that

answer

Maison

her

and

Has

of Cannebieres

number

that

that
infinite disdain, replies

with

Nimes,

any

Marseilles

the

sea-fish,oil,and

How,

Nimes

let

unpleasantlyprominent.

Marseilles

sea-coast?

is there

nor

pretensionsto knowledge

any

the

on

she

Has

any

forward

of

to be

appear

ingredient. In

asseverate

la Corniche.

served

are

croutons"

"

would

recipe;

slices of

over

fish

by

bouillabaisse,and

about

dispensedat
de

the

is encircled

an

as

genuine,and legitimatestew
which

and

sauce

Nimes

Marseillais

the

being poured

Altogether, there

saffron

saffron

course

the
dish

garlicin

made

"

Bouil-Abaise

"

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

the

of
and

person
a

in

"

some

toga, a

dog wagging

inscription VALISINIUS
which

antiquaries take

man

his tail ;

MARCARII
as

meaning

SOUTHERN

t:

FARE

Valisinius,son

of

distributing
provisions,of
;" while

monument

that
"

the

tablet

Valisinius, general
there

Oambetta,

Marchand

fact that

the

of the

there, as well

as

that
the

on

the

coast

improved

he

King

of

found

he

in

Crimea,
Eeserve,

making

it

astute

Genois.

Bazar

"

middle

and

of

"game"

for

was

by

the

mind
the

among

at

between

course

Nimes

Marseilles

and

not

entered

who
"

as

the

Marseilles, and

Phocsean

in its savage

that

his way

to

his

addition

chillis,
or
the

the

components

fish, warrants

the

recipe

Alexis

Soyer,

the

at

of

Original

once

might

be

for

struck

vastly

of cayenne

vinegar,or by
red

in the

recipe

seasoning either

of tar agon

It is probable

Nimes

It at

bouillabaisse

that
to

his

with

chef of the establishment.

Soyer

century

culinarymission

bouillabaisse

and

garlic-reeking

original. Thus

fraternallyfurnished

of

half

Languedocian cookery.

in

vice
ser-

Nimes, he

at

renown

that

lose

gate-sauce," or

than

more

Provence, and

on

was

of whole

admixture

period

bouillabaisse

the

on

1779,

subsequent

1855, partook of

improved by
pepper,

of his

Midi,

visitingMarseilles

gously
Analo-

Sea."

Toulon, Aries, Montpelier,Narbonne,

at

cities of the

recognisedas

the

Cahors,

pretensionsof

considerable

he

at

to steer

Alais, in

of

Bishop

practisedfor

state

Carian

although Durand,

scullion,acquiredmost

other

the

origin of

bouil-abaise, should
or
subjectof bouillabaisse,

sight of

this

Coloniales."

de Denrees

endeavours

and

trade

the

from

grocer,

dedicated

will

of

vow

maintain
archaeologists

of

section

announces

fiercelyrecriminative
the

on

free

own

extant
inscription

an

critic who

The
the

is

his

another

simply

fulfilled his

Caris,having

Marcus

49

BOUILLABAISSE.

AND

the

larger

mullet, which, being

introduction

of

more

liberal

50

of

quantity
garlic,
To

Soyer

profess

"cuisine

of

of

Marengo"

oil

"

let

dish

fisherman's

"

high

so

horse

appreciate

to
"

not

to

over

had

be

is with

or

it is

As

"

point

and

it

the

hole

sou'

with

clam-bake"

that

The

rock

-wester,

best

under

them

is

in

the

on

New

is

flavour

or

of

bouillabaisse

cooked

in

of

lee

an

the

jersey,

England

la

"

with

finest

coast

to

bouillabaisse

costume

the

not

"

well-knitted

are

oil.

"

the

decline

fisherman

the

dinner

bouillabaisse

on

is

of

kitchen,

and

one,

the

to

unconscious

genuine

of

stomach

beurre"

fried

be

thoroughly.

in

English

which

ready

It

Many

found

fowl

out

"With

Northern

rarely

basic

rough

the

Marengo,"

appropriate

Most

nightcap

have

the

me

in

Durand.

abominable.

au

quite

are

restaurant.

in

furnace

speronare.

boots.

at

they

Touching

discreet

different.

"cuisine

the

la

require

to

as

the

and

abhorrent

even

and

unless

all

at

poulet

conclusion,

In

which,

seasoning.

with

entirely

yet

things

with

prepared

is

prefer

to

the

opinion

utterly

case

SOUTH.

in

same

Thuile;"

partake

is

oil, the

people

number

the

it

palates

many
to

it

of

was

DUE

eschalot

chopped

regard

JOURNEY

of

shore.

is

iron

sail

pot
of

red

woollen

and

bucket

Provence

so

IV.

NICE

AND

ITS

NEIGHBOUR.

NEFARIOUS

October

NICE,

UNTIL
in

Nice,

the

Certainly
which

and

entitle
if

at

it

before

albeit

somewhat

of

King
The

of

false,

the

Charles

was

and

baccarat,

to

Indeed,
with

Alps

of

Albert

Savoy,

high-sounding

since

but

during

Maritime

Jerusalem,

shorter

well.

acquainted

was

of

knew

Sunshine

Anglo-Nizzard.

Department

the

and

oranges,

dignities, long

in

City

the

to

an

me

suzerain

empty

merged

his

by

title

significant

more

Italy.
Nice

Sardinian

feathery

was

palms

the

white

marble

the

smells

of

and

the

and

fissures, which

the

Promenade

"

waved,
villas

city

were

des
made

well,

"

is

usually

watering-place
The

as

Cyprus,

grandson

and

the

its

Sardinia,

of

play

in

was

visitor

palm-trees,

not

when

King

son

of

graduation

do

memory

all, and

periodical

claim

to

me

my

Nice

been

passed,

have

years

tolerably

Maritimes,

of

that

myself

flattered

Alpes

number

Mistral,"

"

des

sufficient

have

day

Departement

the

other

the

only

4.

know

you

delightful,
the

dazzled

manifold,

Anglais
walking

eye
and

as

dirty.

vegetation
they
far

to

do

from
with

abounded
home

Italian

an

somewhat

but

sub-tropical
the

what

the

glowed,

now

but

aromatic

ugly
hotel,

holes

on

02

moonless

night,after
The
and

many,

few

and

Genoa

JOURNEY

hotels
the

hackney carriagesfew

in

picturesquedrives

most

berime,

else

or

of the
Savona.

book

to

miles

few

skirtingthe

side of

came

upon

Europe
place
used

to

of

the

out

mountain

little

which

of

of Francis

I.

the

From

palace,wound

nuns,

rctgazzi;but with

the little half

For

rock, was

the

his

and
Lord
a

of Mentone

the
and

groups

table

d'hote

capitalof
of

Prince

of ladies

"

days

the

jagged

few

monks

afternoon
and

men,
gentleof whom

many

Duke

Nice.

town, perched

of
principality

Monaco,

who

the

acquaintancesfrom
Saracenic

Rochebrune,

Frenchman
speculative

the

ragged, bare-legged

styleof fashion, and

Italian, half

Monaco,

Highness

mingled

first

might recogniseas

you

to

be

in the

arrayed

and

these, strangelyenough, towards

evening, would

and

half

quaintly-

little street, on

fruitwomen,

fishermen,

ramparts

said, as

was

met, in the daytime, only

you

was

d'Armi, frontingthe castellated

shadowy

narrow,

of which

pavement

Piazza

it

and

rusty and

sundry

you

upon

There

the

at

off

then

stone, half- castellated

garnished with

gence
dili-

think,

perched

tiny 'Piazza d'Armi,

branched

road

Mediterranean.

blue

old

Tucha, and

La

as
old, so
piecesof artillery,

fashioned

and

and

appearance,
were

stop half-way,

city a

to

to have

lumbering

the

called

great lumbering pileof white

in
palatial

in

Nice

from

fain

were

very

excitingand

most

romantic-lookingtown,

overhanging the deep

rock

the

were

cigarswere

to travel

you

"

mosquitoes

the

of

one

perilousexpedition.

the

wished

"

One

period.

if you

and

Cornice-road

the

along

party, rather

fairlygood,

were

nasty ;

very

whist

SOUTH.

DUE

of

that

on

name,

Yalentinois,

had

condescended

had

been, they

to
say,

lease

in

the

54

the

side of the

to

his

eight-footedpledge being

and

pair and

life its ups

Senor

cried

Moro,"

great Moorish
slave

laugh
that

is bound

one

insolent

tug

at

haply

the

Giaour

while

oar

vicarious

and

day might

come

Nice.
de

la guerra,

the

dogs

and

bench

alike,
accursed
made

down

the

or

way,
gang-

rope'send,

to

Believer,

True

with

not

thought

smooth

for the

and

up

did

the

galley-

Emir

with

enfranchised

Christian

the

the

to

boatswain, strode

whacked

and

barouche

the

Moorish

rough

he, the

four-wheeled

Austria, laughingly,to

himself

chained

be

to

taken
under-

Fortuna

The

the

and, with the hope that the

and

had

recognisedtoilingas

consoled

take

to

who

when

"

of

he

yet, probably,he

downs.

at Barcelona.

quay

relative

of the

redeemed

John

Emir, whom

the

on

and

Don

the

occupant reached

their mortified

has

was

It

little matter

delicate

and

Thus

box.

the

on

Highness's bodyguard

after the

see

SOUTH.

DUE

coachman,

of

by marriage

JOURNEY

well

tarred.
This
termed

illicit

an

Italian

"

Nice

handed

Governments

of

the

It

to

am.

dissipated.I
speak,one

had

come

over

the

from
Col

evening
Coni

di Tenda.

world,

and

fair land

the

very

in

the

late
in

fearsome
of the

some

through

gay,

descending

by Turin,
A

no

are,

number

of

doubt,

upon

autumn

as

it

journey of

some

of

the

familiarly

unawares,

of 1866.
of

most

and

beautiful,and

vilest

the

Savoy

and

With

France.

very

Garibaldi

French

the

between

you

was

remember

twenty hours, through

the

"

watering-placesto

Empire

what

by, before

gone

over

Second

acquainted as
very

days

mercimonio

loveliest of Italian

the

so

of

Nice

the

was

"We

diligences,
six-and-

splendid scenery

in

villagesresembling

AND

NICE

nothing
bruised

so

dizzy with
diligence,

vile

it

its
brilliancy,

traveller

for

the

in

then

mood

to

and

its bustle

of

it

capitalsupper

was

jolting,

relief,what

be

to

sake

the

Nice

As

at

purposes,

Quite apart from

last,and

at

continual

the

thirst,what

and

gaiety,and

life and

wearied

intents and

Nice

wickedness

its

all

condone

to reach

was

and

pigsties.Cramped

many

faintingwith hunger

luxury

to the

than

less

or

in the

half

and
a

more

55

NEIGHBOUR.

NEFARIOUS

ITS

is

so

proffered

it,to

most

present.
politicalassociations,Nice

any

is

town

which, with

all due

deference

to

Garibaldi, naturallypertains

to France.

the

of

the

of

Massena, of the

Quai

the

full

arcades
and

mean

of

the

elegant

are

ordinarilyof

the

was

made

for

think

that

purse

the

Claudine
a

"

the

French

Nice, and

as

Du

skilled

in

Nice

by

should

Yal.
and

artistic and

but

"

and

for

him,

or

be

awarded,

Surely it

rather

refined

to
to

depredator than

that

blunderbuss.

delicacyof

victimise

not

is better

think

Peninsular

shopkeeper

banditti

as

and

grace

the

the

they thoroughly

born

stiletto

and

stand
scarcelyunderan

course,

of

pensed
order, dis-

affable

accomplished lightenerof

an

palm

tourist

with

seemingly unattainable

rapine, does

Paris"

rough-and-readytype, who
with

Anglais,

china, photographs,

Italians

manner

greater completeness,but

execution

such

done

be

everything can
With

to

are

des

Mediterranee

most

The

of

Brigandage,
they

"

la

de

the

pricesby

plundering the

manner.

understand-

they

of

art

de

"article

rapacious of shopkeepers.

most

of

Cercle

of the

extortionate

at

Promenade

fans, corals,flowers, old

knicknacks

other

Nice

professor

for her
the

He

you.
;

for I

traveller's

Claude, but

be

to

plundered by
to

be

brutally

56

bidden

to

"

rifles your

put

JOURNEY

DUE

in

nose

your

SOUTH.

the

"

sand

while

Diavolo

Fra

Beppo, his lieutenant, ransacks

pockets,and

your

portmanteau.
Old
the

of

habitues

shutting

those

of

up

dens

gambling

have

aspect and

changed, and
expression
Monte

and

which

cafes of
"

around

Nice,

in the

unwary.

The

to say,

of British

that
a

lean

of the
Not

stories

the
of

admission
Nice

"

that

can

playingchess

been

appreciably
hear

present, "the

of

scum

purlieusof

the

an

that

by downright thieves, loafing

"

to steal

gentlewoman,"

hers, and

winnings are

Hombourg

as

she

to

often, I

too

belong
is

keep

am

chronic

well

manifest

as

forth

Carlo,; but

for that

rogues

sion
delu-

quiteas

was

at Monte

now

as

to you,

the

sorry

stretches
furtively

sake,

own

something from

suffers under

extraction,who

best

Rooms,

pleasantto

only

not

being able

reduced

its very

of

establishment, but the railway station

administration, for its

public,did
out

at

other

conversion

of

have

at

to seize the coins which

known

well
the

paw

your

"

current

told

of

the

the waters

relaxation

It is not

infested

are

hope

to drink

Nice

better.

nefarious

and

the

since

peaceable Assembly

societyin

to be

and

that

and roulette,the general

rouge-et-noir

is very

or

into

reallycome

for the

not

Carlo,"

sumptuous

of

tone

of

rather

or

the innocent

with

draughts instead

Wiesbaden,

Khineland,

Inferni

people who

enjoy themselves

unfrequentlycomplain

not

Hombourg,

of the

disestablished

where

and

Nice

and

of the

swindlers

place.
less,however, have
the
to

outsiders
the

of both

heard
sexes

some

and

Mrs.

Micawbers

disagreeable

who, unable
about

gambling-rooms, hang

predatoryMr.

very

"

obtain

to

Monaco

waiting for

and
"

some-

MOXTE

CARLO.
P.

57.

tilingto
heard

that

O'Doo, and

pay,

the

they

used

scandals

of

Nice

competitionof

merely
the

as

At

least

few

years

'

of tha

to be

the

denounced

and

lead, sooner
do,

or

the

foolish

very

the

"

herself very

only

enough

case

to

of
little

the

seriouslyabout

their

brains

materiallyalters

large proportionof

the

or

its

any

at

Monte

hang

other

cannot

ning
beginout
through-

cause

of the

can

with
be

the

expected
England

Brazil, who

Carlo, and

themselves

aspect when

victims

"

tourists from
from

or

ence
influ-

the roulette

Government

the

Mexico
money

families

France

game."

that

at

fact,it will probably

the

French

Antibes,

tripotwere

des

than
efficaciously

lose their

out

be

day before

maleficent

felt ; and

If such

the

and

Cannes

Montpelier,the

States, from

United

to blow

but

more

of Monaco's

to trouble

at

even

complainingsome
Constantinople. I

Marseilles

la desolation

"

as

interference

to the

Prince

and

from

plague was

of France.

south

the

regard Nice

who

tapis verts of the Mediterranean

and

wheels

at

far-off

Carlo

Monte

Nice

to

came

told that

was

Aries, and

and

Nimes

by

gaming-house.

murmuring

lamentations
I

yesterday.

keepers
shop-

reputable people, who

common

thus
I

when

similar

heard

to

people were
ago,

fury,caused

of

state

and

resort, bitterlycomplain that it has become

ante-chamber

mere

the hotel

chest, and

the

at

privatecard-playing

that

while

Carlo;

wrong

health

chronic

Monte

something

have

in

are

Never-

plentifulthan

more

Meanwhile

deplorablyrife.

are

far

are

old times, and

in the

to be

MacBilk

the

swindlers

Claude

Nice, but Captain Cashless, the Hon.

in

abound

be

may

Russian

French, Italian,and

do

only

not

good society,also, murmurs

In

up."

turn

57

NEIGHBOUR.

NEFARIOUS

ITS

AND

NICE

are

sionally
occa-

afterwards

it is found

that

gaming-house

;
a

in

58

his

which

JOURNEY

is

Highness

clubs, which

sham

of

more

or

week

the

on

average

wished-for

be

sufficient to

proteston

the

part of France

between

Italy,as

well

of Monte

Carlo

The

On
in

Nice

The

autumn.

has

tenors

withers

My

concerned.

order

that
no

to

should

be
I

entered

sopranos

him

all

the

pleasant reunions

over

in

Europe

palms

"

and

are

Mr.

orange

Italy

nonce,

of roulette

littoral.
wince

very

into my

from

so

the

far

of

up

was

my

this
travelling

musical

financier's

at

naughty
Nice

as

firmly made

scheme

of

I heard

when

parties
"

sixtyperformers,and

being trained, exclusivelyfor

excited in
at

the

the wickedness

had

enormities

coerced
internationally

unwrung,

mysteriousRussian

high

His

ground.

the

at the

and, for

orchestra,they say,
travelling

and

protestwould

fall to

equivocalstories

point

wise

be

thought,might
of

much-

difficult to tell.

not

Mediterranean

last batch

the

Eiviera.

mind.

galledjade, so

Marseilles

he

the

on
rouge-et-noir

such

ere

scandalised
can

wholly indifferent

be

to

appears

be

must

in

house

the

about

on

of
againstthe iniquities

does

before the Prince

putting his

into

and

France,

as

of the

pressure

positionof
curiouslyexceptional

stools who

two

bring

be

Councils-General

it is rather

is in the

of Monaco

Highness
person

long it would

How

action
by practical

be followed

end, the

one

twice

irruptionabout

an

may

Carlo.

Monte

with

into

realitygaming-houses,and

municipalitiesand

French

vencal
Pro-

honeycombed
literally

is

and, in the

citizens.

vices of the

normal

of the

one

policemake

the

Government

the

in

are

which

Southern

is

Marseilles

Frenchman.

French

sleepingpartner are

passionfor gamhling

SOUTH.

DUE

me

no

Gambart's
groves,

envy

of

participation
;

marble

brought me

villa,embosomed
no

longing;

60

the
which

should

have

going, than

was

gone

from

Marseilles

It

came

to

I had

of

I did

where

touching, and

wish

not

something exasperatingin being called

was

for

francs

"

restoration

additional

"

at

Nice

tion
intenslightest

to

touch.

upon

to

haven

good

was

Beshrew

the

not

it

that

Nice.

at

unravelled

was

I found

Bastia, touching

by

Spahis, by which

the

ticket.

my

Louise

Marie

mystery, however,

the place where

precisely

was

the

board

board

on

The

to examine

when

SOUTH.

bountifullyon

more

passengers

DUE

JOURNEY

There

eight

pay
where

you

objectedto being restored.

It

was*

Louise, which
that

lyingin

recentlysomething to

speak

of the

craft," or
life."

the

Fraissinet

to say

that

"

the

walked

jogged along prettywell

She

be

the

which

with

good

nature, including a

Louise

deal

of salt

of

smoking, and

were

unpleasant,for

sufficient

ends
usual

number

of their

to

Harris, and
"

that
of

that

reason

they

were

whiffs

to

apt

when

fling away

"

and

have
to be

been

they
the
The

had

ready

at

board

the

by

moment's

late

the

notice

an

hands

enjoyed

smouldering
crew

mariners,
piratical-looking
trained

cellaneous
mis-

in casks.

deck

of the

most

cigarettes promiscuously."

Levantine

appeared

the

fish,and

unpleasantlyconspicuousdeck-loadingof petroleum
I say

thing of

full cargo

to

gallant

"

as

of

I had

of terms

like

waters

Marie

extremity

abuse

an

Marie

steamer
she

at

joined the

Imperiale,about

It would

say.

port

new

Republique,once

de la

Rue

morning when

in the

eighto'clock

was

Mr.

who

all

Augustus
"

"

to

the

were

go

on

in

Masaniello."
Two

things on
droll,and

as

Marie

eminently

struck

Louise

French'.

me

tolerable

as

what
some-

breakfast

AND

NICE

served

was

"

Cuisine

and

at

du

Midi."

Val

Rather

acid memory

an

de

Penas

Beaujolais?

Why

Bordeaux.

Yang-tsi-Kiang was

Marie

had

half

son,

the

their

decline

declined

"

allow

to

which

of

them

had

been

He

partook

which
mcr

he
;

so

rash
at

as

and

"

Five

of

bang went,"

economy
I have
as

those

day

one

were

with
my

The

The

de

afterwards

he

his

for

friend
"

"

of such

No

might
me,

advance.

lievre," "a

dish

had

maJ

he

of

able

money

board

the

body

to eat

rigidtotal

on
fellow-passengers

all

of his who

strictest maxims
is

in

that

told

in

peace

not

was

were

elements

nourriture

For

band

who

gentleman

"civet

the

ploughed

advance

the

story of
"

were

ranean
Mediter-

blue

steamer

in

One

only

of

servant

steadily; but, wise

not

in the Mediterranean

rarely met
who

; and

some

minutes

mind, but also eightfrancs.

else that

humble

we

little

captain,his

the

pay

pay. for his

to

breakfast

adored."

the

of

commissariat

passengers,

partake.

the

from

as

this,that, although

they feared

to

certainly not

ther
vintage. Altoge-

dinner.

to

The

be.

Garonne

your

saloon

score

quite patheticcandour,

with

de

half

people, had

restoration

in

millpond.

at in the

coast, sullenly but

the
generation,

French
"

as

and

No

dubious

passengers,

breakfast

at

the

along

way

and

Chose, and

calm

as

the

drollerywas

certain Monsieur

was

from

grumble

of saloon

score

say

to

The

Bordeaux

dark

much

not

was

only guests

her

that

Louise.

the

not

The

Perhaps.

It may

haricots,

steward.

Catalonia

lands.

five,

at

the

over

attendant

the

possible. Cette

far I should

As

there

is

It

oil

much,

too

of many

passable dinner

garlicin

much

too
slightly

wine,

o'clock,and

ten

Cl

NEIGHBOUR.

NEFARIOUS

ITS

and
thing
any-

of maritime
returned."

abstainers
the Marie

62

Louise.

They

Stay, one

in

ck

ate

He

mer.

turned

by

the

as

hole

the

from

time

somewhere

brandy,

think

imbibing

by

the

he

groaned

And

yet the

the

sky, and

There

mal

scarcelya rippleon

remarkably

suit of what

cut

Bunyanian system
"

as

he

taires

from

was

"

The

"

Art

to

"

and

thing.

that
one's

we

How

was

give

his

showing,was

that
it to

"

be

He
le

ventive
pre!

gentleman
dinner-hour

cloud

red

beard, and
real

was

in

buff

in

Twiddelle

"

ing
baize,who, accord-

This

in
me

"

Seasick."

All

to have

alimen-

conserves

lesson

gentleman

in what
that

"le

was

with

smiled

pied

marin

acquired?

he
quired,
re-

piedmarin."

English colloquialism
having

an

sea-legs."

remarked

pounded
com-

as

never

Confidence."

Being

had

me

travelled
to

when

scribed
nomenclature, might be de-

of Not

accordingto
I told him

and

Dijon,

good enough

was

"

called

Overweening

Mr.

of

faces

wry

poor

was

resembled

more

not

was

sea.

told

he

casks.

medicament

the

there
the

It

through the

gentleman with

Ecossaise," but which

"

brightly;

shone

another

the

all

appeared
dis-

companion-ladder,

of Marseilles

Bless

mer.

in his state-room

sun

was

to

de

petroleum

such

some

was

cunning pharmacien

some

against
how

it

fancy

he

guilty expression of

make

not

mal

swiftly,
having

little bottle.

do

people

cognac.

with

from

something

countenance,

the

by

apples.

green

munched,

the

among

time, and

to

and

had

appleshe

smoke.

they

told, for the

was

passenger,

Another, in the little glazed caboose

drank

did

chewing

was

good, he

was

as

green

down

funnel

second-class

SOUTH.

drank, neither

nor

condition

was

nearly

DUE

not,

corner

fruit in that

The

JOURNEY

ence
refer-

superb superciliousness,
"

was

Simply

quiteanother
thus.

If

you

AND

NICE

to avoid

wish

and

repose,

the movement
his

of

movement

yourselflike

hold

is in

limbs
result

the

"

It is thus

and

sure

that

frame

of the vessel

does

not

beat

against

of
grenadier,the rigidity

deplorableresult
le

practise
"

you

is in

hand, if you

other

the

is the

"

mal

de

the

pied marm,"

the
mer.

proper

without

will observe, is not

your

ship,and

of the

oscillations

the

of which, you

execution

his

On

Look

knees; he

of

stomach.

oppositionto

his

whole

the

Prussian

stiff.

knees

your

stiffens not

He

Thus

hinges them, loosely.

the

keep

never

mariner.
professional

the

at

-sickness

sea

63

NEIGHBOUR.

NEFARIOUS

ITS

kind

of grace.
And

adviser

red-bearded

my

proceeded to give

ofacquisition

illustration of the

in

the
Unfortunately,

Fates

that

of his marine

and

he

his

fell upon

laugh

to

One

morning.

his

at

to thank

thereto

He

had

that

sure

he

spoke

afar

rival

feet stumbled

am

from

off,as

only

did my

me

in

the

best not
that

more

no

though

mood

hawser,

over

to

traveller

There

droll

another

yet

I would

I had
"

been

conserves

overweening confidence

his

direct
specially
were

on

the

in

feature

the

Seats

along the

steamer

of the

poop

possessionof by

two

squallingchild, and

bulwarks

started

the

partiesof

four

our

there
two

"

Marie
for

Fraissinet
Louise

were

Even

none.

taken

were

old and

hoary patriarchwith

two

preciselyeight

benches

women,

and

voyage,

attention of MM.

the

providingsittingaccommodation

passengers.

before

or

line.

was

Co.

benches

"

me

unusually ironical

an

for his disaster.

There

and

at

bitterest enemy

alimentaires

nose.

mishap, but

day, and glowered

his

were

Francaise."

la

sea-legs a

"

practical

young,

snow-white
E

64

and

beard

with

seats

throughout

They

should

been

at

have

Thermopylae.

to starboard

mingled

-The

eggs.

odour

scarcely conducive
the

among

collation
in

the

their

hat

straw

containing,I

of

tobacco

neighbours.

will

who

the

pace

than
the

much

and

they

port were

not

them

while

with

the

patriarch

deck,
to

rest

found

practisethe

the

dewy

shielded

from

have

petroleum casks

crew.
piratical-looking

the
found

and

the

rays

them

filled

with

be

and

of
on

the

these

they

there

by

sun

cisely
pre-

early morn

at

I dare say

the

"

with

angry

dry

frames

marin

pied

"

placesvacant
eve

water.

wearied

our

impossible to

was

until

flask,and

first-class accommodation

to

or

aroma.

comfortable, high and

more

would

quite such

content

pipe, well

for

paid

or

It

good people. They

poop,

most

were

been

qualmish

the

grapes

briarwood

had

chose.

retained

have

may

something stronger than

bulwarks,

we

hard-boiled

exaggerated Florence

an

warrant,

smoked

to

against the
as

of

They

party

including
provisions,

of

to

the

indulged in potationspottle-deepfrom

we

free

things

party

in

four o'clock the

amazing strengthand acridityof

Meanwhile

they

The

bottle,like

afterwards

were

comfort

have

not

cheese, and

the

Nice.

should

They

comestibles

of these

of charcuterie, garlic;
and

wicker- covered

He

to

passengers.

Sybarites as

basket

first-

to

voyage

folks, were

leeks, tomatoes,

melon,

sausage,

great

Drift.

for towards

de mer,

produced

of the

whole

honest

They,

of the mal

least afraid

the

Rorke's

at

second-class

were

tenacitythe eight available

resolute

been

SOUTH.

people,who

These

held

passengers,
class deck

hat.

straw

DUE

JOURNEY

main

an

found

on

to

read

book

the

awning,

deck, among

coopsfulof noisy poultry and

Wishing

during

the
the

AND

NICE

ITS

NEFARIOUS

golden afternoon, and growing rather

weary

on

brought

quite

hatch.

little ottoman

Eut

pile of

had
when

child.

grudged

little brat

been

walking about,

found

quicklyannexed

it not my

wraps.

for

that

by

the

able
intoler-

something

was

part

ing
squall-

last the

At

of the

one

pillowfor

sleep,which

companion

state-room

my

again,I

into

built up

of the

lee
to

converted

to

went

aft

up

of

deck, and

the

to return

came

had

rugs

rugs

under

occasion

starboard, and

to

party

railway

nice

paper-knife,and
of my

of

bundle

65

NEIGHBOUR.

the

to

good.
the

But

exhausted

the

entrance

of

came

the

to the

"

was

in the

time

our

and

As

port by

about

Marseilles, Nice, and

first

mate,

Nice-Bastia
whose

result

of this

whole

hour

and-half

as

charming

feelingour

taking

second," had
boatswain,

up

served

that

to

of

way

into

berth

in

the

between

bearings of

made

never

hairy

little

by

the

port, and

that

we

another

port itself.

Even

the
The
the
man

perfect

port of Nice.

things was
the

his

Black

quiteas unenlightenedas

navigationof
state

"

off the

covered

were

patches,was
to the

captain

altogether ignorant.

was

his

the

make

but then

duly

of the

that

vestments

canvas

blue

superiorofficers

he

and

voyage,

of dark

transferred

did

seven

taken

yet

reached

fact,we

had

just been

Bastia, and

Bastia

who

"

reserved

have

transpiredthat

had

"

of

quarter to

long cours,"

capitaine en

"

or

lightblue

mosaic

It

thing.

Navy

and

not

were

should

matter

Constantinopleline, and

ports of Nice

Louise

We

voyage.

capitaineau
French

Marie

p.m.

of the

fun

the

crowning piece of drollerywas

by half-pastsix

Nice

Sea

of

the

; and

conclusion

for the

lie

humours

his

The
were

hourthen

66

we

to

JOURNEY

could

anchor

that

health

the

viaduct

bridge

of

in

the

close

make

not

DUE

good

gangway

two

had

officer

planks,

quivering
Vision

longboats'

of

Mirza.

to

hoard

SOUTH.

to

the

length

us

uncomfortably

by

shore,
from

means

hut

the

of

suggestive

fain

were

wharf,

an

so

aerial

of

the

68

panics are
of their

in the

not

for whom

such

discover

that

functions

of

is

the

the

journalismis

for the

expressionof

of

public

at

re-endorsed

"

until

upon,

demands

the

shortcoming protestedagainstis forced

and

Legislature

the

the

the

in
and

in the

about
such
and
At
and

not

course

social revolution

delightMonsieur
present

until

life out

of
in

few

Monsieur

battering

mismanagement,

remedy

of

would

as

in

upon

think, bring
a

few

months,

equallyastonish

Prudhomme.

representingthe patient

Prudhomme,

of

press

newspaper
the

Paris

different
has

necessityof social
"

transigeants

to

tolerate

Frenchmen,

hundred

with

point

the
a

out

extortion

on

provided

was

to

but

years,

bent

strongly

as

I venture

France

Joseph

of

indignantcorrespondence,

Deputy

or

of

paper,
vigorous news-

paying public,is bullied,maltreated, tyrannisedover,

imposed

never

and

complained of would,

evil

the

Senator

Ministers'

the

worrying

One

the

or

attention

the

malfeasance, extortion, and

resolute

one

for

of

walls

the

denounced

English system

of continual

means

grievances

mented
editoriallycom-

upon

Government.

sternly adopting
breaches, by

the

grievances reiterated,

scandal

the

length

newspaper"

and

and

be

there

beneficent

most

correspondents,and

at

will

"the

making

demands

large
other

by

of

they

ever

foreignnewspapers

legitimateand

that

wishes

or

as

Nor

of

conductors

wants

much

as

redress.

no

most

vehicle
the

consultingthe
grumble

there

of

one

of

may

until

redress

SOUTH.

DUE

habit
who

passengers,

please,but
any

JOURNEY

ways,

scarcelyeven

and

the

word

It is left for

reform.
that

while

the

and

evening

to

say

the

"

forcing
en-

In-

English public would

maltreatment

patientshrug, submit.

As

to

for the

which

gentle-

ANOTHER

QUITE

of

men

with

the

each

other

bearingsof

which

bring about

meantime

have

pass

would

be

vain

In

did

Green
'head

and

said.

and

"

of

the

the

This
Chose

had

Monsieur

the

or

the

told

oldest

who

on

him
was

things,"and

and

Carlo
I

had

Board

of

He

shook

his

pocket,"he

from

hand,

your

selves
placingthem-

now

Thirty-five and

gone
had

all about
a

retired

the list.

line,and
had

impair,

Zero

There

the

.your

pieceswaltzing

captain'sfirst visit

Chose

Marseilles

wheel.

turn
re-

the

the

Thirty-six,

quatre premiers.

it,"
the

was

on

jinglingin

louis

pair

between

roulette

and

Monte

slain

we

Carlo,

Monte

captain that

the

being

the

the five-franc

see

all do

the

persuade

coquetting between

now

They

to

tain
cap-

earlier

mind.

Confound

day.

the

Pleasure,"

Never

next

on

hear

"I

of

Louise.

night,and

hour

An

train for

Abode

"

Marie

time

broken

or

c\ cheval

of

of

pirouettingon

now

in that

the

late.

so

catch

to

slightestintention

sadly.

absurd,

did

grim courtesy

arrived

I endeavour

Cloth

the

reform

the

mean

for the

at Nice

With

time

hours

plenty

the

not

of

Nice

to

in

been

couple

"

the

in

abolition of the

entire

booked

day.

apologisefor having
might

other

any

the

were

we

the next

throughout

to discuss

even

bloodthirsty
practiceof duelling.

barbarous, and
the

time

imperativelyneeded

more

present day than

should

In

to find

able

be

to

husily occupied in fighting

far too

are

social reform,

of the

France

they

press,

G9

NICE.

to

returned

Monte

capitaineau
been

Carlo

; but

and

Monaco

had

He

Nice

old Monsieur
Monte

Carlo.
"

long cours

long

appallingstories

had
up

"

to

on

the

"

Nice

to tell about

"just to

have

one

and

gers
passena

looking very ghastly, and

look

at

minus

70

hundreds

many

brought

"
"

from

three

the

Abode

of

hours, lost the

stock, goodwill,and
and

which

world.

children.
The

sage

the

wiles

the

had

There

Monte

Circe of

of

steam

there

that

it.

Carlo.

which

bond"

defrauded

period of

state-room

your

in

thereof

walls

there

when

entire

machinery

unimpeachably

is

no

midnight chimed,

come

to

the

saloon

an

Chose

in rather

churches

of

end.

This

since the
had

gone

Nice.

The

worthy

captain
on

the

had

and

shore.

or

whistling of

the

painfulwas

the

Marie

and

cracked

his
I

the
sole

my

little
trust

Louise

discordant

gossipof
been

dicular
perpen-

creaking,straining,

Almost

board

the

perfectly

an

whatsoever.

prevailed on

gers
passen-

when
a

is

diary
interme-

the

in

are

an

It

sea.

Neptune, through

grinding,rasping,grunting, growling,

the

the

sation
sen-

It is

harbour.

repose,

be

position,and

from

comfortable

should

the

which

ancient

very

into with

and

stillness

that

to

captainof

the

Thus

navigationcompanies,enters

horizontal

the

it.

ready victim

ship in

somehow

ceilingof

or

five

did

all

They

wholly

not

sleepingaboard

on

the

vessel

fumer,
per-

and

wife

fallen

have

peculiar and

and

floor

for

possessedin

he

had

he

as

Chose.

me

the

which

sou

justreceived

business

his

francs

thousand
had

authority of

the

on

feeling of having

scarcely"i'

of

all,and

of the

attendant

he

every

would

is to

which

remedy

no

Louise,

eleven

fixtures

lost it

was

mariner, Monsieur

odd

"

Ulysses himself

Marie

There

"

had, in the

who

of

had

he

Misfortune

of

Pleasure

sum

constituted

He

SOUTH.

Child

One

imaginez-vous,Monsieur!

for the

the

of francs.

back

of

course

DUE

JOURNEY

son

that

when

manner,

steward

had

companion
and

they

in

old

sieur
Mon-

were

not

ANOTHER

QUITE

bound
had

for Monte

the

on

The

there

proceeded

attempt

to

Monsieur

Mediterranean.

Canton

his

conceal

He

He

did not
of

the hotels

did

think

think

so,

again?

himself,

he

C'etait

stay in

sion
aver-

the
fichu

un

Swiss

in any

the

hotel

admitted

be

case

luxurious, the

most

Well,

one

of

master

was

Black

preferred the

most

universe.

entire

the

charges!

moderate

cheapest in

the

his

no

Swiss, from

What

must

made

and

"

but

ever

the

were

and

For

It

so.

London

not

opinion.

Monsieur

!
politeness

politelymanaged,
Monsieur

Riviera.

the

"

dark

steward, hated

the

He,

Frenchman,

Did

What

luxe !

Monsieur

loathed
a

to reveal

and

for the supercargo

scorn

cabin

in my

boilers,and

the

on

came

sofaless little den

in the

about

Chose.

not

was

of Berne.

What

mind

pour-

Bastia

berths

startlingstatements

spoke his

for old

pays."

sitting

was

handsome

for

in the

else

singlewashstand

make

to

He

secrets.

that

promise of
passengers

puttinganybody
four to

were

length there

at

poop.

refrained, when

board, from

first-class passengers

of the

rest

steward, excited hy the

if he

boire

his

The

mysteriouslydisappeared,and

room

"

Carlo.

71

XICE.

Sea

"

Odessa, Yalta, Sebastopol,

Galatz, Ibraila,Kustendji,the Iron
Gates

of the

preferenceto
So

let

polishingmy

Danube.
"

him

cette

Speak
maudite

babble

boots, and

in

the

morning.

in

on

system of social economics

the pour

his

puffing away

of that

of

"

anything

in

Mediterranee."

of possible
hearts.
lightest
boire

to him

Always

at

with

hope

that

in

of

The

idea

the
pour-

modern

our

properlyappreciatethe

boire, of backshish, of the "tip."

pantry,

with
cigarette,

the

scarcelythink
we

of

tiny caboose

value

has

of

beer,

72

within
fair

these

day's work

William

to beat

the

great deal

those

are

Harold

of

the

out

times

of

pillage
;

to be

Is
"

who

had

captiveof

anything,you

it not

drifted

into

the

the

the

the

line of

body

on

Mediterranean
of

the

an

bestowed, and

which

steamers

Englishman
as

the

of

sleptthere

backshish

was

made

If you

an

turned

out

of
practices

and

keepers

and

roadside

the

architect

of

of

should

knights
tavern

such

kind

came

Louise

ing
build-

sought

at last

MM.

Fraissinet's

fondly imagined that

from

war

lodging-house

Marie

considerable

seemed

perfect
in those

"

he

?'

blowing
a

barons

backshish.

had

in

"

Musings
of

pity

warfare

picturesque

were

princesand

steward

without

person

and

the
was

war

"

ransom.

"gasthaus"

edifice of to-morrow's
cot

narrow

of

half

had

harm

any

fine old

all the

keepers?

I watched

spear,

companies,and

fancy warehouse

up

of

palms

coarse

as

hands

of

soldier's

to

they

profitableas

waiters, of steamboat

me

him

held

pity that nearly

from

and

bow

guerdon

civilized

you

the

in

say

prize-money.

was

your

worth

practicesas

over

done

never

sailor's bonus

the

"

helped

day's work

"civilized

stomach

the

rippingup

or

you,

have

and

anything

be

warfare
straightforward

the

enemy

could

there

brains

stranger to

is to

to

worker

the

when

days

fair

They

the

that

"

received

prattlingabout
hypocritical

or

though

as

did

day'swage.
In

that

knightswho

Norman

their fee.

for

England

fair

and

day's wage,

think

Hastings only

at

than

more

remorse

"

fair

who

The

more.

conducted
properlyand logically
or

to

line; yet they

throat-cutting

great deal
land

is entitled

man

There

deserves

SOUTH'.

DUE

days, steadily gaming ground, that for

latter

nothing more.

in

JOURNEY

inches

time

might
to time

the
be

to be

ANOTHER

QUITE

mingled

with

passiblystrident
la-las.

In

dream

has

one

Of

Rouge perd."

"

was

purchase
have

look

the

of

bewildered

I had

that
to

astounded

city with

for

au

long cours

to

take

in the

"

of

from

side ; but

freightsteamer

from

well

could make

out, the

lay rightathwart

which
we

how

to

were

and

entrance,

Muffato

were

could

obstructive
was

account

out

larger

by

were
position,

not

the

of

be

primarilyof

the

Man

Wise

for the way

in the

unknown

yet

means

as

the

sea

fifteen feet
in

her

huge

bows

How

outward, and

smacks

waiting

businesses, unless

nature

as

he

"

afternoon, and

sail

swung

as

was,

moles.

two

sorelytroubled

ship upon

contrived

Muffato

five o'clock

their several

about

to go

the

fishing

capitaines

come

the

of

port,

place of

"

good

speronariwaiting to

thought

The

had

painted on

name

scrambling and

port,inside

flotilla

ashore, and

for

night had
"

to

completely

aspect

left us

Palermo

again at

little flotilla of

another

but

get

the

rarely in

We

century.

later in the

Italian
as

that
so

than

to

"just

years.

Cortes

berth, which

kind

quay

red.

and

adapted as

more

or

many

already mentioned,

uncomfortable
the

far

nineteenth

have

as

up,

Columbus

the

purposes,

I went

every

so

ever

been

when

was

almost

whose
for

tonsorial

have

looked
begin with, certainly

embarkation

plus."

va

upon

confess

well

as

as

familiar

been

ne

postage-stamps,

wanderings

my

and

gazed upon

morning, for

I may

Nice."

at

course

in the

stationeryand

some

Rien

rouleau

last

of Plutus

Temple

"

im-

the

course.

betimes

up

the

just flung

churches

the

couleur."

et

gagne,

Nice

the

priest^of

of the

chants

Rouge

(i

of

shrill chimes

the

73

NICE.

into
of

some

the
less

mysteries;

in his mind
was

for

to

to under-

74

stand
To

the way

the

the

of

JOURNEY

serpent

ordinaryand

docks," and

DUE

on

unwise

muses

SOUTH.

rock, and

fowl in the

"

who

and inscrutahlymarvellous
thingsperennially

First, that,
and

next, that

doing

herself

the

not

in

sapienceto

the

the

white

the

vessel

to

forward

to

"

orange,
; the

the

inquiringin

the

still waters
shore

strange

sightsand

our

skid

sense

be

of his
wishful

ready ;
port

as

the

anchor

at

; the

angles ;

the

where

cooking strange
knotted

of

of

plashingof

the

the

strange contradistinction

sounds, the metallic voice of

these

unknown

dog

"

tion
quesor

oars

being

to
an

in the

rascasse

boat's

skipper was

messes

potato peelings

interested

when

dark-

hurrying

vessel
coasting-

being also
to know

cook

and

tiny

together from

black

the

on

"

hulls

cabooses

of tomato

some

and

arcs

blood-colour

now

were

inquiring bark

of the

and, in

of

variety of festoons

dim

cheery laugh
"

breakfast,and

frittura would

is

There

Solomon's

all

'of the barks

half-decked

creeping from

dump

overboard;

of

baffle

into

bent

bent

were

; the

vessel

injury.

it not

continuityof awnings amicably

dock,

in inextricably
interlacing
laby-

skinned, grizzly-beardedmen
under

tugs

again without

feel ashamed

colours

craft

yards

smoke

blue

crowded

out

get
dire

thousand-fold

blue, now

sails that

of
spirals

to

of

numher

any

two

are

phenomenal.

should

we

gay

different

now

"

and

get into

to

able

Did

and

into

tracery;

patches

there

to

it out ?

sails reefed

rinthic

why

matter.

make

the

be

of

neighbours some

quaint forms

riggingof

able

should

her

or

he

reason
slightest

ignorance

The

she

assistance

the

a
pilots,
ship should

and

the

with

even

down

occasionally goes

things maritime,

upon

air ?

the

in the

rowed

on

Levantine

mariner,

76

brown

bag,

canvas

JOUKXEY

full

DUE

of

SOUTH.

offensive

prickly pears,

their

to

taste.

If

they

in

ark

cruelties

Constantine
the

cattle transit
off

the

the

it is for the

wonted

of

lutteurs

the

abolished

Just

study

the

the

gladiatorial

episodesof
and

ay,

"

from

will at

you

and

Nimes

Aries

fires of the brutalities

and

the
far-

be in

once

how

"

of the

decks

the

on

It

cargo.

troublingyourself about

replythat
do

continuingto
once

Spanish
very

easy
to live

arena

of steamers

visits

amelioration
I

those

to

am

in

the

afraid

By

and
of

course

much,

in the
a

laden

and

that

of

treatment

that

the
the

one

dumb

Southerner

of

and

to

this

we

I have

in

urge,

Levant

quarter of

regions, noted

inherently incapableof
brute

may

revoltingto humanity

Mediterranean

the

done

have

we

and

hand, in the

other

ourselves, you

best, to mitigatethe horrors

our

scandalous
In

cargo.

immaculate

not

are

respect.

the

who

abominable

most

among

live stock.

We

at

without

"

ashes, in the holds

in their

seeing the

through the Straits,and

admit

Almost

undertaken

seldom

very

system in the Mediterranean

bullfightsor

with

Great

not

is, after its kind,

creatures

amphitheatre.

Odessa, and

positionto

dumb

the

on

have

without

voyage

wreaked

sports in

miniature, and

would

ship,they
of sustenance.

way

coasting steamer

Mediterranean

was

board

on

go

Mediterranean

^Noah's
a

to

there, poor beasts, in the

get much
every

doomed

were

are

system
tion.
civilisa-

not,

on

rent
century's recur-

single symptom
animals
of

the

of

conveyed
Latin

race

feelingof compassion towards

as

is
the

creation.
dint of

trying,and

much

trying
"

in the

course

of which

ANOTHER

QUITE

down

nearly tumbled

managed

effect

to

nut-brown

rhyme,

however, seemed
to her

and,

the

cityof Nice,

inhospitable
drying ground
her

end
clear-starching
what

appearedto

brickfield,and
at last

fetched
a

short

to the

cut

like civilisation

; and

road

there

most

primitivekind
the

upon
Nice
the

was

"

which

are

is

the
"

to be

conductor

the

is termed

"

front, back,
easy

to

despisedas
of

this

or

jump
a

I had

float,"and

since I

seen

dusty
the

into and

gazed

Francisco.

at

easy

The

wheels, what

in

right anglesto

sides; but, covered

y etes."

find

looked

That

is,in fact,a

It

vehicular

I had

that in the

of San

to

where

char-a-

with

out

of,

jump

convenience.

lengthened chariot

"vous
Monsieur," he replied,

and

trudging along

came

benches.

came

endeavouring to

platformon

or

and

disused

yard,a

lamp-post.

that

streets

board

of wooden

awning, and

it is not

in

in

Presently

the

tufts of cactus.

sparse

from

I
conflagration,

I discovered

by

that,still

disastrous

close by,
irritatingly

of tram-car

only a

States
rows

and

"

extensive

by

so

and, traversingsuccessively

deserted tanner's

compass

tram.

"

bancs, without
canvas

by

trolleys

tram-car

United

I marked

town.

addition

manifested
nose,

ironingbe

be

uselesslywrong

her

contempt

an

damsel,

retreat
precipitate

in

still

was

may

site of

the

port of Nice

The

I beat
"

of my

the

story in question,

in the

remains

dusty road, bordered

on

This

opprobriousepithetswent,

as

sister in

her

assuming,in

blackbird

resolution to bite off what

quest of

in

far

as

of the

role

"

clothes."
on

deep gully

garden,where

like

was,

the

out

into

back

bent
despitefully

so

part,the

own

livelya

hanging

"

and

into

entrance

an

bare-leggedmaid

and

nursery

sand-bank

77

NICE.

I asked

Nice

was.

78

midst

Italian

of

shop-doors

of the

from

corner

thumb
had

of

debit

and

tabac

de

foot

my

and

on

was

say, Leatherlani.

came

from

the

maccaroni

of

of the

the

son,

had

captain of

I had

Nice, of which
somewhat
dull

as

sure

find

and

it is here

This

Petit

to

barber's
a

Marseillais

dealer

from

name

my
not

were

the

to

sour,

odours

of

the

in findingwere
difficulty

some

post-office
; but, fortunately,

Louise, who, with

Marie

"

livelier
What

they

began

comforting polenta, of

all heard

excellent

tolerable

street, next

have

we

gayer

"

the

remarked

he

strange town,"

into

I went

that

by-lanes

taking,like myself,his

been

passed since

good.

me

her

frittura.
exhilarating

barber's, a newsvendor's, and

the

had

emerging

finger and

heath, and

tortuous

stuffato, of

only thingswhich

I met

her

years

native

the

generally

of course,

Yery soft,when

stimulating minestra,
The

barefooted

It did

the
of

Most

or

brawny girlwith

bearing 'twixt

my

recesses

and

dirty

over

purchased a halfpenny cigar.

was"

Le

marked

farthingrushlight!

seen

names

sold within

wares

farthingrushlight. Many

feel that

the

hair, and

grocery,

The

exclusively Italian.

unglazed, and

head

in

myself

idle,sleepy,and

an

architecture.

paltriest
description.I

"touzled"

in

streets

found

slightestpretensionsto grandeur

almost

were

shop-frontswere

the

picturesquenessin

even

until

to wander

labyrinth of

without

town

SOUTH.

DUE

continued

Perplexed, I
the

JOURNEY

walks

abroad.

should

so

place.

blagues
"

have

what

Monte
lies

captain informed

an

have

charcoal, and
old

woman

that
who

It is

Carlo

be

as

people tell,to
that

I could

sold fruit

that

been

five-and-twentyyards

some

in

me

"

thought

would

much,
Can

his little

be

should
up

the

procure
a

few

ANOTHER

QUITE

doors

higher;

should
me,

in

board
walked
Piazza

have

that for

but

to walk

as

far

he
post-office

as

the

Marie
with

away,

Garibaldi

that there

Louise

at

his

little
of

Why,

Quite Another

was

Nice

which

most

of

us

nevertheless,to have

are

and
well

so

had

peep

"

that

oiled

would

be

bade

ready on

punctually,and

should

that

He

cheerily. The

course,

"

with the curled

a.m.,

son,

the salt-smellingNice,
fishing,
common

breakfast

nine

afraid

was

Garibaldi.

Place

conclusion,not forgetthat
the

79

NICE.

Place
have

so

La

"

known

Nizza, the maritime, the

had
and

nothingwhatever
perfumed Nice,

acquainted.
at that

Other

Yet

in

with

glad,

am

Nice.

YI.

NICE

FROM

BASTIA.

TO

October

BASTIA,

THE

Marie

from

emerging

in

undergo
She

began

and,

with

port

effecting

the

take

devour,

to

done

in

watched,

the

little

fascinating
What

things

many

serve

and

on

some

which

the

had

and

written

that
the
of

deck

old

vessel

commodities

his

astonishment
did

not

mariners
the

that

leggings
for

the

very

Marie

despatch

of

all

but

Louise

several

the

around
farious
multiin

the

destined
for

Somebody,
of

full

to

stance,
in-

waterproof

sail-cloth.

crates

tain's
cap-

almost

the

away

were

consignment
in

two

in

beholding

stowing

demand.

packed

nay,

"

do,

to

the

Socrates,
at

chandise
mer-

or

and

laden.

being

want

of

hour

Chose

were

extensive

loosely

is

of

work

an

interesting

that

breakfast,

kinds

some

for

Monsieur

of

he

had

and

always

me

definitely-expressed

needed

coats

of

expressed

things
hold

to

deck,

on

of

microcosm

so

the

spectacle

"

went

company

boy,

market-place,
him

it,

after

all

speak,

to

to

harbour.

characteristic

voracity

-so

fate

her

exiguous

shortly

afternoon.

the

been

that

cargo

insatiable

seemingly

having

into

entrance

in

difficulty

much

as

had

it

as

additional

in

continued

Nice

of

an

throughout
and

quite

experienced

the

to

she

ship,

Louise

9.

Somebody
of

bottles

of

FROM

and

absintlie,vermouth,
needed

with

of

Behind

of fir-cones.

heap

Bastia,

of

bourn
and

wool

the

butter, the

of

end

by somebody
the

ignoredby

of

son

cabin-boy

board

on

had

rino ; he

He

Morea.

passed since

had

he

him

favoured

to

Leghorn, now
or

to

even
"

when

of

am

"

it is

at home

and

he

than

retired

sacks of
of

tubs

packages

all wanted

voluntarily

or

had

He

had

on

yet ;

sea

expeditionto
had

served

entered

port

some

now

the
or

to Valencia

the

mercial
com-

had

been
years

pension;

or

"

but

often

companies
another

the

at the

Some

well-earned

of Nava-

Battle

thirty years

and

been

now

to

Carthagena,

Tunis.
the

Then

trip to

Algiersand
at

mate
ulti-

the

the

of the Mediterranean.

the

the

in the

of gunner,

more

Barcelona,

I like to look
Chose

for

he had

with

frigateat

rank

waters

tired

not

was

At

to be

to

talkative.

very

Cruz.

and

blue

kegs of turpentineand

unknown

master-at-arms

Vera

marine,

ploughing the

was

to the

of

bombardment

where

baskets, bundles, and

French

been
rose

tall

Sophroniscus.

Chose

Monsieur

Old

arrowroot, the

cheeses, the

somebody

root.

was

wholly dissimilar articles,were

the

"

many

orris

there

; and

voyage

on

of

port was

rice and

innumerable

the

holding no

Tuscan

of

bags

and

fir-cones, and

Louise's

full of

boxes

varnish, and

The

Marie

the

hemp,

pharmacicn

them, I took

upon

forecastle

wanted
?

Bastia

camphor

the

by

Who

Leghorn

at

or

of

of

senna,

watercasks

some

Corsican

Some

since
drugs replenished,

address

the

and

ginger

of

81

BASTIA.

TO

bitters.

his stock

to have

packing cases,
note

NICE

vessel

lading,"remarked

pleasure that
at

Marseilles

never

pallsupon

there

is

old
me

scarcelyan

sieur
Mon;

and

after-

82

that

noon

the

see

and

I do

merriment, and

the

day spent in
find

I think

filled

which

with

them

no

sudden

with

five

many

He

noontide

at

the

of

was

that

than

to

going and coming

and

rough jokes of

really bearing

some

procurable

at

victoria which

was

had

Nice
no

and

of

the

had

down

asked

to

had

that

to

price.

brought

Nice

austere

an

desire

the

horn,
Legin

the

species

Besides,

there

was

widow,

genuine

lady

in

hailed

passengers

captain if

he

membered
re-

shop
"

"weeds

havanas
I

behold,

to

perambulated

Forthwith
the

"

the

to

canaries

Days.

cigars,and

moderate

sufficient time

Other

resemblance

canaries, and

burning

which

of

twelve

past

for

passengers

maritime

the

not

right down

lady
than

less

Massena, where, of

Quai

twelve

the

twenty minutes

about

two

"Wapping,

that

there

watch

were

minutes,

but

morning,

the

how

Abdera, who, after

victoria,driven

in

me

only for

the

not

in

or

deep philosophicmusings,

been

have

sightof

of Mediterranean

on

of

noisy traffic

the

to

it must

the

having

the

and

studies

the haven, and

quay-side,and

if

wrath

Chose.

soothing recreation

more

that

when

cage,

Monsieur

old

always

folk.

waterside

four

know

wharf

have

in

to

talk

the

and

They

it I

Democritus

man,"

craft,and listen

the

boatmen

whether

say,

saying

Thus

abstruse

to

listen to

to

the

Joliette

probably quite unconsciously,with

old

no

stroll down

been

years."

"little wearish

to

racy

have

and

of the

quay

originalrace.

an

and

mind,

same

could

are

fresh

of

to the

sailors

the

They

thousands

SOUTH.

lading and unlading, and

railleryof

something

DUE

stroll down

not

vessels

labourers.

JOURNEY

were

the
and

thought

accomplish the journey to

the

84

to

Mediterranean

the

Amema

"

went

at

Wapping.

driver.

youthful

The

Garibaldi, along the

and

Place

by

Then

Nice

the

began

of Other

in full Quai

ourselves

river,or

Paglionc,its bed
three
di

in

as

employed

in

down

which

their

on

life at the clothes

with

The

how

they bang

their

the

you

regard

and

banging

I found

the

well-remembered

the

the

stony bed

fresh

and

Margot

au

Pan

! Pan

de battoir,

Pan

! Pan

va

Pan

! Pan

! tout

debit

de

or

Col

busily
forms,

Paglione,
for dear

voices,laughing,
of

as

yore.

lavoir,

at the

two

familiar

sonorous

! Pan

coups
laver

son

noir

coeur

de

douleur.

"

Assommoir

down

washerwomen

of the

"

are

of the

old

linen !

at the

"

found

the

thwacking away

pallets.Their

as

from

of Nice

are,

linen, or

couple

dear

will

you

the

"

the

was

down

Pan

away

Neuf,

exceptionof

trickled

they

wooden

refrain in the

savage

the

Uanchisseuses

on

away

Pont

Neuf, and

Pont

witli

There

gibing,wrangling, sound
And

he

sleepy-

I knew

erst

call it what

have

knees

sousingand wringing

du

Yes, there

ever,

the

washing.

and

amicably by

too

the

"

tiny streamlets,which

Tenda, and

away

crossed

Massena.

dry

as

Bou-

horse, and

quaint

that

not

watercourse

torrent, or

Bedouin,

Boulevard

Nice

Watched

ville,we

shrieked

"

Albert.

recognisethe

to

Days.

sergents de

of

Charles

rosse

the

the

through

pace

"

fetched

"

lookingPlace
so

la,sale

la, Khroumir,

epithet

tremendous

Hue

"

"Hue

last

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

on

ringsin
their

your

knees

ears

as

scrubbing

linen.

tabac

of which

tobacconist,an

old

I stood

lady

in

need, and

of vast

the

dimensions,

NICE

FROM

broad

of

brow, with large,black, flashingeyes,

in

handsome

but
profile,

not

engaged

"a

memorable

in

old

whole

grand

to

me.

and

majesticas
had

Where

I been

"paquets de quatre

fences."

Did

she

the

always keep

not

awaiting his
lique, he

in

conveyed
old

lady'sdexter
in

niece

diplomacy.

Adding

of

that

the

to

his

abuse

the

time.

time
to

quarter

to

brought

"

Indeed, there
spare

six, came

; for

and

five
went

approachingdepartureof

her
times

steam
;

but

and

up

; of that

the
more

we

were

circumstance
miscellaneous

grand

edifice of her

the

quatre fences"

de

intended.
originally

epithetsaddressed

Troppmann,"

"

fun," and
me

information,

of

perhaps

"paquets

of

"his

Ange-

"

tent
non-exis-

and

youthful driver

only

monsieur,

for

invisible

of abusive

names

them.

had

the

I had

as

"

whisper,sheltered by

four

vocabulary

was

willingsteed

much

more

purchased

Si-Sliman," my

"

excellent

the

an

piece

last

cigars

same

she

the

glad

so

return.

parlour,crowned

back

patienthorse

and

his

the

to

her, instead of two,

from

the

palm,

would

on

was

stock

in

he

This

contralto

deep

The

Naturally

knew

returned."

has

She

long ?

"fences"

She

return

ruin.

so

the

be, but

may

till

it is true,

injuredby time,

Eoman

into the

centimes

and

underpinned it

and

aspect when

of

meditative

lady, somewhat

up

superbly

once

superadded chins,

many

francs

the

sweeping

shored

somewhat

with

now

dignifiedof mien,

but

complacent

see

S5

BASTIA.

TO

back

and

to

he

any

Marie

not

items

to

did not
of

port

half-pastfive, and

note

strike
in

Mce

even

apparent signsof
She

Louise.

informed
did

glad

was

the

"Billoir,"

anything, slightlytoo

without
the

that

if

was,

"

of

to

had

got

at least half-a-dozen

prevent her
of cargo

"

taking

in

formidable

86

of

array

which

wine

empty

told, would

JOURNEY

casks

from

return

certainlyopened

possible to

obtain

SOUTH.

DUE

the

among

full of grapes,

Leghorn
door

the

"vin

de

These, I

number.

statement

it

hypothesisthat

the

to

Bordeaux"

was

vineyards of

the

mi

was

Tuscany.
At
his

being imminent,

length, sunset

intention

been

the

on

departed

table

for

preciselyat
effort to

of the

who,

examinations, 'obtained

all

respects a fullycompetent
confess that
struck

dandy,

and

"En
the

such

"

with

looked

avant,

the

aft with

his

assistant,and

his

table

"

En

the

steward

stop f
our

been

!"

"

own

as

The

pilothad

shrieked

Fortunately

Basta,

"

have

broken

nom

bows
poor

Au

of the

the

head

had

just

It

Marie

to

wave

bridge.

that,when
de

Dieu,

Louise, and

appeared that

of the

it to

the

on

than

stop.

her

Berne, who

got further

did

the

pilot.

crying when

was

captain

arretez

sake

for the

lives,the vessel

Miiffato,against which

not

the

big Italian

we

of
had

steamer

little Marie

Louise

would

The

escape

was

badly.

to

quitea

was

agitatedmanner,

very

signal to

navigatingrightinto

probably

all

tureen, hastilyhanded

soup

in

he

of

Canton

smoking
began,

napkin

avant

the

in

ably
favour-

not

was

than

hairdresser
"

his

was

Palinurus, who

avant, doucement!

en

"

all

bound, however,

am

prejudice

this

like

more

steward, from

Swiss

come

aspect of

far

first

harbour

passed

and
certificates,

person.

her

had

doubt, had

no

his

made

We

and

tureen,

soup

Louise

of Nice.

force of

is the

the

Marie

properlyhave

warning bell,and

the

quest of the

port

mariner

should

rang

the

moment

out

He

in

galley

that

us,

five.

at

the

steam

pilotwith

serving dinner, which

of

announced

steward

the

FKOM

and

narrow

within

fortunate

of

captainand

the

pilotby

end

the

But

had

big Muffato,and
when
at

chief

the

the

vessel

until the
or

But

up

to

what

hanged

the

chief

yardarm,

had

been

steamer

when

manage

in
things diiferently

she

already pointed out

and

stevedore

to

had
had
and
and

of

that

it

to

Mr.

with
the

the

of
Indeed, the probability

Nice, but

minutely

to

the

bottom

measurable

in

could

be

not

of the

of

vessel

was

mariner

everywhere at

boatswain
; but

declared

one

continued
memory
loss

of

the

our

not
scuttling

distance.

jury

travellers,

master

on

of the

They

and
the

that

the

dore
steve-

he

had

forward, gettingup anchor,

Louise

Marie

Cowper

Nuffato.

estimable

he

hands

port, awakening

William

the

stop the

to

of commercial

shore, the boatswain

to do

daring

properlybestowed

cargo

adventurous

the

business

the

was

on

meanwhile
more

bridgethat

the

see

gone

enough

the

for

the

mutiny,
forthwith

not

captain that

That

further

any

Mediterranean.

the

to

lurching seriously to port.

once,

the

captain,

this rank

than

irons

mainly composed

assessors,

responded from

in

put

the

to

engineerwas
more

any

of the

incantations,

move

Was

running rightinto

was

his

compliments

properlytrimmed.

steward

had

his

of the

of the way

recommencing

the mutinous

by

of the

misfortunes

the

to

categorically
refusingto

was

averted

hands

of the

wriggle out

to

pilotwas

saloon

passenger

collision

out

come

engineersent

time

same

yet

contrived

the

seen

first time

steward.

saloon

surely the

was

being taken

not

"We

Louise.

Marie

vessel

it

had

87

BASTIA.

TO

; but

one

experiencethat

my

command

the

NICE

to

incline

at least

the
out

harbour, seemed

the

Royal
of the
to be

more

lines

George.
port of
within

88

Happily
No
overset

had

we

"land

only

the

no

for

her

right

to

breeze

shook

Marie

Louise

shrouds," and

the

from

the

confusion

and

yellingin

varieties

of the

dialect of

cargo,

the
especially

the

deck.

The

he

tipsy,and

was

had

There

in

are

of

in

of

aid

the

be

Nobody

he

sound

dair

who

sober

was

eight o'clock
and

the

all

Marie

was

Louise

sailor's
the

prayers

and

much,

proverb,
de

to hear

mcr.

the
"

La

state

said ;

the

remembering

There

"

and

"

you

mange

tout."

watches

of the

of the

rooms

would
ejaculations

warmly

as,

at Nice.

lune

In

bright

to Bastia.

passage

to-night,"he

snoring from

quite cheerful
what

glass,and

as

farewell

me

mal

of mischievous

extremely well, and, with

predicted as

lime

nasty little

The

all kinds

smooth

as

bidden
de

had
of

us

behaved

was

had

had

board

on

the

was

moans,

another

beautiful
exquisitely

an

Provencal

the

know

she

which

Chose

beau

un

played

end

had

Monsieur

night

side of the

again. Possibly

things compensations.
had

sea,

shaking hands,
will

all

the

moonlight, we
Old

snug,"

"

endless

in redistributing

one

see

about

By

made

been

steamer

tricks,but
the

replacedby

been

in

casks, which, with

wine

not

off

longerlopsided.

no

brute

I did

put

indescribable

succeeded

placed on

all been

his business.

reportedas having
was

empty

bawling

raft

or

patois,and

Languedoc,

originalstevedore

understood

and

Nizzard

the

charming carelessness,had

"

camion

hands, who, amidst

full of dock

quay

ceivable
incon-

with

shouting and

much
"

not

physicalimpossibility

of

through speaking trumpets, a great

ward.
lee-

to

were

we

laden

been

having

After

roll

and

loose

matter

was

herself.

break

to

guns

slovenliness,it

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

what

have

been

gers
passen-

yellsand
audible

NICE

FEOM

had

there been
and

"

at sunrise

travellers

it

le ver"

have

been

of this

course

occasion
the

whether

commercial

majority
weeks

three

merchants

Frejus and

their

extend

I have

and

"

French

smokes
Amid

"
"

good

the

deal

is

to

fact,seafaring

Figaro apart, the

the

have

of what

none

last

Meridionals

and

from

Toulouse,

and

Corsica

they

Sardinia

their

from

four

number

or

even

print latelyin English

in

my

counts

of

this

only

of

which

to

understand

he

is rude

The

unfortunatelyundeniable

read

have

indictment

one.

papers
news-

thinking unjustly,depreciating

meaning

exact

tobacco, that

plead guilty to
tobacco

of

Paris, the Southern

proportion of

fail somehow

rank
the

"

commis-voyageiir.

him,

humanity,

operationsto Tuscany.

seen

blubbery

to

do

"

grievously,and
the

from

not

"

Montpelier

They

year,

of

matter

Denisiers," but

St.

"Rue

Toulon.

five times

bagmen

Aries, from

and

type

inevitable

the

that, in the

travellingcompanions during

been

disdainfullycall
Nimes

As

shopkeepers would

and

frequentlyhad

South, I have

traveller.

of my

have

after

cigar-casewould

characteristic

very

folk, hotel waiters, and

vast

their

puffingat

observed

have

you

pilgrimage down

to refer to that

French

cognac,

!
Why,
cigarettes

sight of

mere

of

them.

anguish to

scarcely know

the

nips

and

"

"

wind

commercial

listen to the

worm

cigarettesquite chirpingly. Their

slightlyrough night

capfulof

coffee and

hot

kill the

to

"

half

"

delightfulto

was

loftilycallingfor

tuer

"pour

sailors call

what

even

89

BASTIA.

TO

"

to

term,
that

exceeding
;

and

he

the

that

is

applied

as

spitsand

ladies,and

think

he

that

so

he

badness
execrable

forth.
should
of

his

odour

90

of

poisonousRegie
the

paper

rolled.

But

It is that

in which

is

he

the

you

Regie Francaise.

of La

of the

vile

those

as

as

of the

his

MM.

the
and

from

cafe to

for coins of

curious

of the

Bridges,the

aides-

smoke

quite
half

drawerful

before
much

mortification

returned, has
that

venerable

Quai

Massena.

the

fault of

With

head

may

of

be

Nice

and

Massena

the

at

invisible

ruin

Roman

It is the

"

of that

fault of

La

the

Mce,

board
over-

qualityof
the

by

is not

the

old
dignified

dame

the

who

lady

that

Angelique
It

left

with
discovering,

am

that
disappointment,

Quai

bundle

are

mulate
accu-

cigars.

flung half

change
ex-

you

may

you

detestable

in

you

had

fault of
of the

Regie Francaise.

It

is

monopoly.

of

hardihood

European
the

judged.

The

Paris, from
to

of

to

France, if

in

grievouslydeteriorated.

which

points by

given

foreignweeds,
"

siccus

to inform

amazing

at the

of

Marseilles.

and
the

on

anxious

so

spurious money,

reached

to

po"ada

genuine mintage, so

at

we

cigarsvended
was

of

hortus

"

whit

cigarsevery

make, unwillingly,
a
constantly

accumulation

in the

his fault.

commis-voyageur.

cafe, you

increasingcollection

stench

Receivers

in Spain,fatt"fondato venta, from

As, travelling
meson,

and

cigaretteis

It is not

general commanding,

infernal

of

have

Roads

Finances, the Engineers of the

de-camp

"

paternal

the

by

mundungus

"

else would

what

supplied hy

exceeded

be

only

can

SOUTH.

DUE

which

cigarswith,

the

of

JOURNEY

the

purchase

insistence,France

civilisation

extent

French

Yosges
a

of

to

the

cigar which

let

us

civilisation

of her
are

; but

nation

Maritime
in

of

claims

to be

justtake
or

otherwise

smokers, yet

Alps, it

England

the

five

is

out

sible
impos-

humblest

92

tion,"

as

Henri

DUE

recently and

was

Messieurs

JOURNEY

Roustan

and

Roehefort, is

Challemel-Lacour
for the

to send

Monsieur

happened,
cognate

of

case

England

himself

criminate

five

privately. As

it

remembering, perhaps,

"

that

into

he

had

been

to

answer

too

makes

much

Number

his

might
the

juge

Five, and

be
difficulty,

in

long

of

any

the

at

answering questionswhich

This

without

-pointsmight,

of

to the

Thuriot

questions.

d 'instruction }s

cahinet

defendant

flatlyrefused

"

Monsieur

Georges Cadoudal, who,

drawn

be

to

of

case

Chouan

President

trial,told

the

versus

interrogate him

Eochefort

the

in

shown

amusingly

juge d' instruction, and

SOUTH.

the

expanded

to

fifty.
I find

Meanwhile
a

of

rather

the

capitally.
by

hundredfold
"

la

blague
is

any
"

of

of

and

Illustrious
of

"

le

"

Gaudissart
"

that

you

is not

the

this

mot

or

of
have

"

"

might
whale

great

as

deal

"

of

du

Nord."

got

is

the

be

as

fond

of

that

of

tite
appe-

world,"
"

too

lubricates plentifully

opinionthat
"

and

garlic,you

All

is not

yesterday,
he

gether
to-

on

His

ever.

me

very

multiplieda

He

in

commis-

Balzac

him

at onions

South, and

come

cuisine

to

the

"

of his dishes

of

met

never

said

American

rire

were

Most

was

"

main

been, indeed,

I have

journey.

pour

"There

An

I have

type.

has

and

had

not

choice, of

Gaudissart

Montelimart

oil.

little

"

Hobson's

during

it

lately

L'lllustre

"

have

the bagman
still,

time

from

with

Midi

associates

haricots for me."

many

fond

that

prodigious.

gentleman

is true

extinct

an

means

any

It

nature

nobody

or

coyageur

commis-voyageur in the

of

choice

extended

French

fellow.

good

very

the

the

"

if he
must

the
be
member
re-

cuisine du

Meridional

cooks

FROM

not

are

pride of

the

"And,"

do

figsat

little

five

platefor

gens

Marie

"

' '

spruced

has

is full

and

by

In

himself

of

mine

morning

he

is

autreSy

like

"

adieu
are

all bound

our

five francs
do.

Paris

Fi !

bred

adore
the

Humph
was

to bid my

yet awhile.
for the

same

of the

of the
of

in

tall and

white

sea,

Illustrious
a

tranquil

He

shinyhat.

with
gaiters,

linen

walking-stickwith

has

he

cognac,

gold

"

"

which

not

sell

if

"

breloques gold or plated,it is

and

he

to

always great ;

was

in

make

that

am

the

to

Englishmen,"

le

avez

Do

de

At

?
we

friends

all

hostelry,the

veniences
incon-

the

events

do.

Gaudissart
or

he

tured,
delicatelynur-

more

we

he

vous

voyager,

hardshipsand

satisfied that

Commercial

gout

and

Frenchman,

good

lery.
jewel-

Englishman,

an

"You

dangers

inquiriesas

any

this

but

article of

the

no

commercially travellingmyself.

am

I tell him

Illustrious Gaudissart
am

charging

"nip"

has

travelling. Vous

shrinks."

dit, we

morning

appears

He

in which

You

liein ?

from

But

en

of

rule, perfectlysatisfied.

remarks,

nous

phenomenally gleaming

Indeed, when
a

Marseilles,

calmness

inquire

to

article
particular

is, as

at

his shoes with snowy

is too well

He

this

the

He

up.

watch-chains

business

Louis,

cceur

coffee and

his

buttons.
mother-of-pearl

knob.

vends

"

adorned

even

le

be.

to

lady who

in
restaurant-keepers

your

Fortified

night's rest,

St.

the

was

of Nimes

excellent

apiece,instead

Louise

Gaudissart.

Cours

the

it

garlicas

Durand

latelyan

garlicquand

as

of

matter

Monsieur

me

centimes

them

les mlaim

The

to

vegetablesin

eat

the

exemplary

remarked

fruit and
we

scrupulous in

so

93

BASTIA.

TO

NICE

and

pany
Com-

non-commercial,
Hotel

de

we

France, in

94

in

inns

this

thousand,

usually

is

the

with

are

Corsica.

Certainly.
slip

in

'twixt

To

With

the

the

cup

and

no

de

Hotel

my

the

heart.

lip

then

amount

of

of

the

France,

Bastia,

but

the

for

France

Marie

the

tenu

elsewhere.

delay,

or

Bastia,

There

as

and

of

"

than

Europe,

bungling

port

Alas!

at

the

less

are

doubt

France,

small

middle

the

all

de

there

Italic,

the

supportable,

surprisingly

anchor

cast

in

twenty

Guide-Joanne,

the

that

states

are

Hotel

the

other

are

inhabitants

although

There

To

There

"

say,

all

Staffe."

thousand

authority,

Malte,

best.

Louise,
has

de

SOUTH.

par

twenty

thousand.

Croix

tenu

"

natives

the

trustworthy

seventeen

the

of

town

so

DUE

Palais,

du

Boulevard

the

JOUKNEY

par
is

and

we

Staffe."

many

VII.

AT

SHORE

ON

BASTIA.

October

BASTIA,

IT
the

Marie

the

port.

the

captain

vessel

close

boatmen

of Latin

harbour

the

be

the

If

differently.

and

the

"

on

you

the

obtains

be

must

del

costumbres

practice

shore

at

Vera

not

are

of

pais."
Cruz.

board

the

no

the

steamer

take

you

tender

York,

directly
must

you

It

same

is

"

to

or

or

things

boatmen.

Precisely
The

New

at

to land

allowed

calmly

Liverpool

at

shore

Oh,

by

in

the

features

steamship

Anglo-Saxondom

Cuba.

fleeced

is to

ocean

an

of

you

which

the

supreme.

peculiar

conveyed

on

on

of

Out

You

of

case

walk

Orleans.

ordered

the

walk

you

be

to

welfare

the

vessel

of

interests

Anglo-Saxondom
the

You

and

of

one

his

moored

have

material

the

and

crowded,

held

were

of

middle

the

the

were

comfortably

are

galleon.

New

in

as

offing, you

or

boat,

for

board

on

vessel

Southampton,

steamer

they

Throughout

walk

the

monster

and

there

is, I believe,

oar

"

the

but

consideration

Boston,

the

side

in

means

any

difficulty,

any

considered,

the

by

not

that

boatmen

local

the

position

her

up

was

quay

of

benefit

taken

civilisation.

sea.

the

without

could,

comfortably

lies in

at

The

of

gentlemen

to

had

tender

and

Louise

to

to

Such

for

apparently

was

10.

are

from

have

one

of

agreeable

anchors

inside
G

96

the

Castle

hands

of

St. Juan

of the

corrupt

is not

There

tradition

normally

were

yet

from

finds

created

and

of the Latin

brethren

family likeness
and

except from

than

When

in contact.

Bastia, from

form

it

round

to the

artificial

ancient

as

The

almost

produce the

theatre.

in
The

their

strong

of

way

charging
over-

world, I would

is little better

Tuggi,

Tomaso

and
piratical
I have

much

streets make

the

with

of

the

had

the

most

lately

important

more

displayedin amphitheatrical

the

perspective,as

Roman

is

town

mouth
Ports-

Constantinopleand

whom

port,and
to

of

most

looks

harbour,

reallyis.

the

shore

the

ships

boatmen

the

common

the

over

Signor

class with

the

that

the boatman

the

of the

by

in the

"

about

abused

the

in

that there is

mean

all

where
sea

deny

to

"caikjes

member
vituperative

place than

"

pirate,and

come

at the

be, for aught I know,

I say

Elsewhere

port of Bastia, Corsica, is

pleasureto

land

to the

traits in

many

category the

foul-mouthed

and

may

prepared

boatmen

Venice.

down

go

"

gondoliersof

this,it

Anglo-Saxon-

Anglo-Saxondom

using bad language

the

in

of

corner

race.

between

is the

It
mark

pray

are

you

plundered

good

; but

in

you

helm.

faithfully,
you

who

That
not

have

boatmen

corner

to be

am

the

at

injury,

to

curses

the

steamer.

those

acceptance.

Gravesend,

the

that

and

rows,

me

serves

the

he

There

fall into

you

adding insult

at Cadiz

same

is,perhaps,one

old

then

clumsy

are

memory

direct
sallyport

while

boat

Gibraltar.

at

same

dom, and, if my

fine

the

Barcelona, the

the

SOUTH.

Ulloa, and

de

if you

Castilian

at

same

DUE

inevitable boatman, who,

to steer

expects you

JOUKXEY

"

effect

built

houses,

such

rapid descent

brought
"

up

moreover,

scenes

are

about
of
very

by
the

tall,

SHORE

ON

of them

many

Terra

the

Vecchia,

they

aspect
"

date

They

black
like

gnawed
Behind

ISTuova,or

from

it now,

of the

is

Green

donjon of

the citadel

of Bastia

being bordered

by olive

and

backed
villas,
of

lemons

by

smiling oasis

which

appalsyou.

of unrelieved

one

the

The

half
are

as

towards

of

as

tigersin

of

the

ages

this

the coast-line the

down

sombre

hues.

dark

austerityof

upon

beast
the

is

coast

nothing but pile after

which

masses,

long since past and

Those

groves

presents the aspect

desert, the

see

these

tawny slopesof

by

roads

port the amphitheatre of

menagerie turned

geologicalwild

the close

of the rock-bound

You

the

by

charming drives,the

appearance

savagery.

one

d'Istria.

with verdure,

tawny hue, frown

gazing upon

I look upon

vegetationas

you,

to stone

gone.

show.
rocks

you
of

Stay
Far
are

of

are

impression,

an

half grotesque,takes possession

of
terrifying,

Amburg

in

architecture.

hill is crowned

the

midst

the

pile of jagged granite,and

monstrous

thick-tufted
The

hill clad
in

of

style

steep hill,which,

from

Time.

green

and
Barbary fig-trees,

; but

of

generally white, with

afford very
and

dogs

Terra

century by Vicontello

suburbs

of oranges

of

occupation.

edifices of the

the

frowningpileerected

"

in

grimy bas-reliefs,

hungry

villa

Hills of Vermont.

of the fifteenth
The

affectingthe

Genoese

with

the

are

resplendent with

as

rich

buildingsrise

background

Italian

than

more

the

of

by

town, which

upper

all is

and

bones

venerable

are

forming

and, indeed, the majorityof these

period

age,

many

"jalousies," and
Behind

town,

the

with

so

these

lower

or

Those

storeys high.

seven

mediaeval

are

structures
are

and

being six

97

BASTIA.

AT

that

you
Van

some

there

away

are

from

thinlystriped

stripes,undulating along

the

98

mountain
of

show, for

Illustrious
to

of the

He

tells

me

not

nearly

so

Nature

"

turned

to

indeed.

of the

some

island, and

stone

un

the

as

the
he

"

arid

time

one

Auvergne.

in

Sicily. Olives,
the

The

jungle.
almost

"

is

tells

and

add, that
from

the

bandits
The
the

days

Italian
with

whom

Illustrious

"

but

it is

that

lead

might

coast

fortifications

be

"

larch

There

are

there

; but

nuts.
magnificentchest-

"

bush

dwarf

the
"

island

Gaudissart

present piping times

of

Corsican

is,in truth,

oak,

"

makis

was

the

"
"

mary,
rose-

bracken

unnecessary

presumably

favourite

an

"alaterne,"

box, mingled with

It is almost

"

macchie

the

Then

clematis, smilax, and

disorder.

by

It

or

Algeria or

figs abound.

le fourre."

in

are

you

qualifiedas

of

of

smiling land

very

and

lemons, and
may

for

Ajaccio.

to

disappear.

moment

underbush

sage

the

chestnuts

next

call it

gone

might fancy yourselfin Dauphine

general floral
in

heart

by

Amburg's menagerie

cypress,

and

makis," which

lavender, and

the

is

desolate

oranges,

impenetrable

to the

appalling

spottedwith

pays,"

the

there

me

! the

French

of

"Behind

the

you

Presto

de

heather, laurel,thyme, myrtle, and

add

forests

obliged to explore the

Van
prehistoric

of almonds

in

comes

this

are

his Corsica

first view

imagine.

means

groves
At

rocks

drole

"

forests,it is true, of pines,and

also

tells me,

penetrate by Calvi

to

is

Corsica

to

The

knows

thoroughly,he

savage

he

"

it

"

that

traveller

are

Ga.udissart

leopards,too, in

are

Gaudissart

do

"

interior

the

SOUTH.

"makis."
darkly-flowering

of the

in order

There

cypress.

"Wombwell-like

The

DUE

sides,are, the Illustrious

pine and

clumps

JOUKNEY

resort

to

derived
of

the

formerlyswarmed.
hinted
incidentally
peace

and

that

even,

in

well-organisedgen-

darmerie

the

toilette of

99

BASTIA.

AT

SHOEE

ON

of the littoral was

scarcelycomplete without

hastened, however,

to

"

tout

that

"

which

there

"

to disbelieve all the

me

about

the

existence

Corsican

civilised

heard

has

Europe

"

al nemico

Morte

but these

engraved

only toys to

were

for

aught

he

does

That

Corsican

having preservedintact

fact, however,

character.

unsociable, and

"

II

will hear

the

on

he

such

made

in Bastia

and

suspicious,
a

Empire.

Second

the

are

you

factured,
manu-

against the

coucheur,"

under

to exist in the

militate

why

and

ham.
Birming-

own

our

my

blades

distrustful
essentially

is

That

deal while

good

"

Vendetta

"

at

or

not

his

good policeagent
superlatively
You

Ajaccio,continued

est mauvais

revengeful.

elder,

the

Henry Irving,

long ceased

have

hear

vendetta

and
English visitors,

knew, in Paris

island.

might

Dumas

damascened

or

be sold to

Hereditary blood-feuds

vindictive

that

stilettos with

informant, they will sell you

"

families of

At

much.

so

Kean, and Mr.

DionBoucicault, Mr. Charles

Mr.

earnestly
begged

stories which

Alexandre

to Monsieur

which, thanks

about

cock-and-bull

among

he

; and

postulatein

-a

"

him

He

gredins par-

everywhere

scoundrels

thoroughlyagreedwith

revolver.

avait des

explain qu'ily

were

frequentedparts?

traveller in the less

of

"

la mal-

veillance Corse."
Corsican

Modern

stabbingor
the

shootingone's

"makis."

among

According

Corsicans

does

malevolence

well

enemy,
to what

and
I

not

then

to

some

whether
foreigner,
other

he

be

and
nationality,

of

know

Frenchman

sullenly

form

hiding oneself

and
guiseof habitually decrying,disparaging,
the

the

hear, it takes

enough

educated

take

in

especially
better

"

the

scowling upon
or

and

"

of

member

of

systematically

100

JOURNEY

DUE

opposing,thwarting,and
reform

to foster the

the

prosperityof
hate

to

for

they

It

which

fortunate

so

chanced

so

Bastia

before

Hotel

all

me

respectablegrocer,
and

the

of

the

You

"

taste and

of the

trousers
and

"

the

read

pride,were

exceptionof
the

seventeenth
pages

of
appreciation

looks

in

of
vain

and

manners

in her

good

But

Ajacciohas
a

vast

change,

been,
I

was

at

"

told,had

remembered,

just named,

for
sociability

expense,
taken

red

is Italian

This ancient

savage

me.

the
flag,

Valery

Bastia.

vast

warn

of Monsieur

department,notwithstandingthe grandeur of
which

to

as

nature

Meridional

my

rival, the

new

dealer,

the

century/'

fine

highly

clothes

Napoleon, all

Corsica," wrote, in 1837, the author

sweetness

bagmen

to

me

tri-coloured

Code

of

town

friends the

here,"
so

the

have

of the dirtiest cafes I

one

Marseilles

in the

the

expect anything of

not

and
soldiery,

to have

favourable

of

proprietorof

who

interior of the

the

My

"

in Corsica.

about

introduced

even

; but

Continentals

"

worthy ready-made

must

Italian of the

however,
more

very

proper

Bastia, with

At

Staffe."

par

elegance of

companions, with
"

acquainted with

truly estimable

visited.

ever

deal

only

can

Gaudissart

first breath

good

ceased

have

all persons

upon

their

place,and

the

over

Illustrious

confer

I learned

tenu

"

Corsicans

the
disliking

to draw

became

in

they

as

that

de France,

took

the

lated
calcu-

and enhance

resources,

the

of

kind

any

generationto generation I

unanimous
certainly

are

heen

not

from

or

mainland, and

the

That

authorityof

genericterm

"

island.

the

the

on

from

industry,develop the

another

one

vouch

plottingagainst all

introduced
enterprise

or

SOUTH.

"

much

capital
displays

which

one

chef-lieu of the
the

edifices with

recentlyadorned."

place since

1837

in

the relations of the two

of Corsica.

is in almost
reached

few

hours

by

of the island,and

Arms
the

Court

Treasury,

and

also

Ajaccio,which

staff

Communication

Italyfrom

the

steamer

the

to

wild

lices."

should

The

Swiss

promenades
than

the

every

year

over

climate
a

to

mixed
say

"bonne

in

rail to

enchanted.

Continent
of

cases

Ajaccio;

It

was

"

The

were

dame

friends advised

of

the

bay

was

health

and

was

very

had

built

was

when

ville de

de-

clean

as

as

The

beautiful

was

becoming
The

its mild

and

the
a

but

may

more

resort.

bronchial

English, for

Anglaise"
me

It

recommending

pulmonary

he

magnificent.

colony of Dutch, Scandinavian,

nothing

une

Naples. Finally,Ajaccio
as

is

there

rest, it

to

publicbuildingswere

fashionable

more

only

the

For

of Paradise.

that

ravishing.
of

week

reach

can

you

where
Cagliari,

Leghorn.

mountains

was

The

were

Bay

the

be

climate

chalet.

for
the

journey across

got there

all

bound

steamer

that
difficulty
a

is

Marseilles

and

Torres, in Sardinia, and thence

Porto

proceed by

placeof periodical

department.

capital. Once

place called

traveller must

find

Corsican

the

Ajaccio, Nice,

it is with

tolerablyfrequent,but

at

departments are

political
capitaland

between

Prefecture, the

the

administrative

of the

The

headquarters.

Bastia, but

session for the Council-General

of

generalcommanding

the

their

have

other

is the

that

be

can

Place

is stillthe

It

steamer.

sits at

all the

Leghorn, which

with

it is here

his

garrison and

Supreme

front of the Italian mainland, it

rightin

dailycommunication

in

capital

Bastia is the commercial

towns.

Planted

101

BASTIA.

AT

SHORE

ON

faculty

and

balmy

ailments.

It had

Russian

invalids,

benefit

church.

of

whom

In

fine, my

stronglyto proceed to Ajacciowith

all

102

DUE

JOURNEY

possibledespatch,making
astonishment
How

that
walked

we

state that

their

work

whole

the

the

steamers

the

aright

and

that

had

are

the

completed
On

us.

arrivals

and

bliss of

being

travellingpublic from

"

o'clock

seven

be, unlike

must

here

early hour

blackguarding

boatman

Imagine

I may

very

and

"

There

one.

day.

every

abuse

Bastian

happy

at

at all.

sure

boatmen
piratical

plundering

life of

and

of

arrived

of their

secret

no

to Bastia

come

be

I remember

juststrikingwhen

time

same

town, to

had

Louise

shortly after six,if

was

have
the

ahout

the Marie

the

at

I should

SOUTH.

the

man's,
police-

departures of

Monday

able

rob

to

morning

till

Saturday night !
Close
noble

to

the

proportionscalled

it is bordered

side

the

seashore, is

the

port, on

the

sea

is

the

floors

ground

though they

as

Town

in

Place

St. Nicolas

of these
had

Edinburgh

the

couching

One

other

feature

feature

at

tall,grimy, old

spoke just now.

shops

mean

superb

view

menagerie
the

and

indeed

Bastia, and

turned

another

which

it

place :

the

sea

the

Titanic

and

and

to stone.
"

may

The

trees ; but

presents

expanse

Old

of

from
"

the

promenade

of the

rock

look

cafes.

nor

favourite

is visible

also

and

fountains

is the

On

of which

some

"

of tawny

masses

highly interestingone,
this

to the

Amburg's

Van
prehistoric

neither

Something else, too,

affords.
mean

few

evening it

population,owing

the

sides

two

transportedbodily from

boast

can

and

in the afternoon

are

"

On

of the

composed

dingy houses

been

of

expanse

public buildings,but

of which

Genoese-looking tenements

open

St. Nicolas.

Place

by tolerably handsome

frontingthe

an

admit

to

that

me

to

analogous one

see

at

104

twenty thousand
to the

had

JOUKNEY

been

by

that

nearly thirtythousand

than

more

of Bastia

that

books

hundred

and

Ajaccio

is not,

learning.

of

view, the

would

horse

to

the

and

water,

habitants
five in-

dissemination

intellectual

the

point
fited
bene-

have

literarytreasures
of St. Giles's

slums

British Museum.

the

libraries

plenitudeof

at Rome

the

much

not

every

But

an

Trastevere

that

to

for the

that, from

it is certain

is

the united

book

give one

Ke-

Fesch.

island

the

propinquityof

the

of
pistol-shot
a

giftof Napoleon's

uncle, Cardinal

fiftythousand,

of the

denizens

Vatican, while

bring

to

and

scarcelythink

largelyby

within

are

of his

this

in

note

public libraryof

is another

a
unfortunately,
guarantee

of

of the

I may

splendidliteraryprovision.

very

VII.

population of

the

two

"

Prela, who

named

the
volumes, principally

brother, Lucien, and

membering

bequeathed

were

doctor

Pius

Ajaccio there

at

of which

worthy

physician to Pope

connection

SOUTH.

volumes, the bulk

of Bastia

town

DUE

It is

another

thing

one

make

to

him

drink.
It may
have

have

been

appeared to

wandering

said

anything in

par

Staffe."

my

encounter
a.m.,

seven

wearied
Fate

was

and

the

bagmen

the

gentleman

received

pirates of

presentedourselves
with

open

arms

de

his

early
at

by

the
the

in

I should

having

France, "tenu

I have

the

the

Hotel

amiable

place

question.
his

over

head
fore-

morning,
de

at

thoroughly

in

hotel
hair

recorded,

took

port

the

that

without

I became

at

combed

"When,

the

ere

bed-room
who

Hotel

although, as

half-pasteleven
of

all this time

concerningthe

against me.
and

Bastia

fact is that,

with

occupant

were

were

detail

The

it

about

passing strange

you

France
and

accom-

the
we

plisheddaughter of
had

heen,

full for

well

as

messieurs

adorahle

rooms,

were

thought

quarters

of

be

hour;

an

inexorably sure

adorable

the

rooms,
"

did

qualify them

ces

not

all

started

going

irrevocablyat

I could

executed

but

not

the

by

away

ten

admire

the

of

dry bread,

expirationof

an

shelter,that

ces

"

straps of their

out

hour,

for

messieurs

"

they declined

dismally aggravating;

hitherto

sea

tinge,and
Atlantic-looking
had

and

becoming

cobalt-coloured

hills there

or

to clear

It

was

risen

that

she
the

they
which

walk,

the

coming

cafe

some

to

to

paying

the

hostess

cigar,whiled

out

the

find

of

when,

claim

the

still
their
the

more

assumed

behind

the

bank

of

an

at

the

promised

bills,
or

as

an

bucklingthe

Hotel
so

Mt

au

away

at

all

de France.
the

rapidly overclouded,

had

huge

welcoming

upstairswere

portmanteaus,

that

halcyon sky

the

bills,and

which

had

returned

we

events
was

We

repast,with

that
went

we

For

Leghorn,

dexteritywith

and

Then

ing
charm-

a.m.

speedingthe parting guest.

hour.

their
for

"

buckling

were

"

steamer

and

and

the

ready.

"

paying

complicatedmanoeuvre

the

how

daughter

will observe

you

"

and

rooms,

little three-

Then

be

"

amiables

"

as

strapsof their portmanteaus

were

hour.

would

la-haut

ces

Well,

Staffe's
say,

"

things perfectlysure

an

rooms,

messieurs

moment,

said

we

for all

bit.

; or,

make

street, quite

charming

"

Monsieur

half-hour
to

or,

suppose

"

the

rooms

only wait

Well,

great

were

ourselves

would

we

wait ?

to

might

there

""meaning

if

we

it

hut

days past ;

many

hotel,she explained,

The

Staffe.

succursal, higher up

its

as

amiahles

long

Monsieur

105

BASTIA.

AT

SHORE

ON

hitherto
and

ugly indigo

amphitheatre

the
and

of green

leaden-coloured clouds,

106

darkly menacing

and

villas of

the

out

to

which

had

which

and

his

Sea.

Mediterranean
the

Leghorn

Hotel

The

The

kept.

chimneys

; but

cuisine is

would

Bastia

at

him

is

of

sleep,it is

was

of the

to evacuate

brushed
the

accommodation

done, had

not

one

on

over

his

reallydo

of the

waiters

"

and

Italy,

the

tion
excep-

rooms

in

which

travellers

is

and

know
there

"

still
what
were

which

to

in

entrance

no

Bastia

forehead
not

here.

seen

that, with

about

of

testable
absolutelyde-

not

There

walking

his hair
"

of the

destitute

are

smoking-room

no

with

premises

crust"

going

not

France

other

usually expect.

absolutelyfoot- sore

No

bottom

seldom

are

is

hotel

eat, and

to

reading-room, and

who

have

devoid
countries

European
hall, no

in which

room

hair

large house, tolerably

between

to the

drawback

the

"upper

persistin

and, albeit susceptibleof improvement, is

The

malachite.

manner.

the

at

of

were

eyeglass,and

an

Gallican

tell me,

borderland

the

had

He

tidy. They

are

rooms

they
fireplaces,
on

of

room

sill,and

cuffs,which

large discs

he

hair

steamer

France

de

the

on

Quatre," to match

I wished

Why

his

first-floor front

linen

of the

one

steamer

pointed him

haughtily languid

that

brushed

elbows

his forehead.

know

his

had

" la Henri

this,but

who

of the

with

cigarettein

evidently.

board

He

Leghorn

waiters

white

the

the

The

away

ornamented

over

commis-voyageur

gentleman

his

"

ghastly relief

Would

manner

cut

combed

he

into

window

open
mine.

beard

smoked

The

go

ample

an

great depth

well

never

he

to

was

displayedin

He

the

the

at

me

Yecchia.

would

his forehead

over

SOUTH.

DUE

throwing

Terra

start, and

never

JOURNEY

when
the

tleman
gen-

declining
I should

three, all

SHORE

ON

ferocious

in

in

but

aspect,

main

the

107

BASTIA.

AT

civil

fellows

brought

me

"

chair,

in

which

companions

My

for

us

me

with

,a

half-past

was

all

but

yet

was

round,

follower.

wonder,

down

or

long

ago

remember

the

his

street

patrician

scorn.

to

he

really

shall

facial

to

pier,

say?

ances.
appear-

haughtiest-looking

the

have

the

"Was

trusting

and

treating

towards

"Who

said,

have

departure,

perfumer?
against

mised
pro-

reserved

enemy.

took

rooms

apartment

the

aristocratic

most

ever

he

street.

open

As

unknown

superbly

us

adorable

before

strode

he

warned

that

my

the

obtained

all

particular
by

in

door,

time

this

eleven

of

glance

The

man

held

hotel

the

at

by
the

as

patrician,

Juvenal

sat

had

them,

it

met

was

bailiff's

VIII.

THE

COME

DILIGENCE

TO

LIFE

AGAIN.

AJACCIO,

that

THOUGHT

allude

assign

to

this

to

to

of

gender

the

from

had

of

deal

of

attained

do

to

France

kind

of

which

period
was

English
the

when

turned.

The
and

drags

last

"

and

sod

of

of

the-

least, the
after

both

run

diligence
it

virtual

and

witnessed

revival
in

as

the
commercial

and
of

tion
perfec-

about

the

line

singularly
of

form

ways
rail-

clumsy

Greenwich

my

ousted
of

state

attained

had

in

was

efficiency

the

successful

stage-coaches

about

introduction

the

London
has

driven,

railway

at

before

clumsy
to

the

decade

equal

christened

the

by

stage-coaching

brilliantly

artistically

vehicles,
"

first

with

just

that

respectability distantly analogous

to

being

sex

with

our

Navy

same

certain

French

all.

artillerymen.

admit

highways

the

of

21.

warrantable

the

days
quite

not

is

ship, and,

earliest

am

it

vehicle

feminine,

patroness
good

to

and

good

that

obsolete

in

but,

for

her

presume

the

always

reluctantly

great

it

but

is

the

had

and

all

with

courtesy

coal-mine

have

locomotive.

Barbe,

Sainte

and

in

magazine

powder

time

happily

transferred

gallantry,
economy

done

immemorial

by

imputed

diligence

the

to

had

October

telligent
in-

four-horse
of

private

enterprises

THE

but

heard,

never

Second

DILIGENCE

diligenceeither

as

luxurious

most

nobleman

French

any

days of

gentleman

or

private whim

109

AGAIiN".

LIFE

TO

during the

even

of

Empire,

COME

or

as

the

ing
start-

business

speculation.
spectacleof

The

gate

of

the

and

M.

le

scarlet

Vicomte

indeed

Prince

of

high,indeed

of

their

on

wore

Prince's

the

would

that

Grand

the

done

was

the

dously
tremen-

Longjumeau,"

utmost

Cafe

in the

accomplished,I believe,by

was

inhabited

he

the

the

Palais

periodicalarrival

voyage,"

the

in
postillions,

the

costume,

de

their

plaited,and

with

when

de

the

four

team

addition

to

with

dexter

the

scutcheon, and

historic

beneath

tie-wigs, scrupulously powdered.

their

ribbons

Longjumeau

badges decorated

their

Vieux

"

parture
de-

berline

greys,

coloured

silver

arms

and

The

Normandy

tails tied up

Eoyal,

picturesqueequipage

most

character.
undeniablyeighteenth-century

very

while

hat, and

badauds

The

revival

of his "berline

manes

the

to

delightthe flaneurs by

to

hung

Postilion

boon

Napoleon, who,

gamboge buckskins,

the

the

Picardy horses,

stalwart

oilskin-covered

de 1'Opera.

direction of such

four
in

of "le

boots

the Place

used

waistcoat, the

been

and

brightyellow diligenceat

brand-new,

Jockey Club, with

big
have

shining hats

habits,

vieux

galons."
the

But

that

sense

we

held

ferule

"

in

dear

talk

we

such
a

was

Opera Comique
Royal.

old

am

diligence
"

the

about

I
"

"dear

different

"turn-out"
not

old

in

enough

old

when

livelydetestation
widely

call

affair
the

her

schoolmaster
we

from

were

in

the

whom

under

his

Monseigneur's

courtyard of

to remember

"

dear

"

when

the
the

PalaisFrench

110

postillion
was
with

him

JOURNEY

the

on

buckskins, his
his

gmnde

shiny

his

trousers, and

nightcap.
from

He

in

man,

headgear

all

streamers, and

and

very

often

was

in front

his

faded

woollen

drove

He

them

leathern-

cabriolet,or

two, if

conducteur, and

the

was

velveteen

red

team.

of the

sate

He

disappeared.

blouse

longer bestrode

banquette,wherein

waistcoat, his gamboge

red

had

Paris,

and

Boulogne

coloured
parti-

boots

high perch

very

hooded

no

and

hat

large shabby

his

ago,

acquainted

I first became

"between

route

preternaturallybig

only

SOUTH.

picturesque. When

forty-threeyears

some

DUE

pot three, outside travellers.

The
and

conducteur, in his way,

carried
in

in

beard
his

his

close

right fore- finger.

political
opinionswere
middle

age, he

his

of

"

Mon

La

with
and

on

"

the

from

in structure

"

said

"

the

uncomfortable

imagine

the

with

weather

hinder
the

by

an

half

roof

of

enormous

Titus,"

la

side,

one

him

martial

britschka
with

to relate

and

of the

as

of

battle

ducteur,
con-

dingy,dilatory,

as

as

it

was

conjunctionof

possible
the

bodies

amputated omnibus,

behind

the

driver's seat,

luggage,shielded

tarpaulin. The

of what

of the

smartness

an

passed

addressinghim

"

about

monstrous

on

his

that
had

he

Armee,

old contrivance

piled high

if

morning

past was

an

to

a
stage-coach,and
post-chaise,

the

"a

stirringanecdotes
Grande

the

Naples

diligenceof

as

his hair

gold lace, on

Bonapartist; and,

Apart

wore

generally understood

was

usually some

of

Moskova.

shaky, and

of

It

Batatouille

brave

the

to

had

of

frequentlysported a 'signetring

experiences with
Joachim

King

its band

and

manner,

known

militarycrop

casquette,with

rakish

the

dandy

was

horses'

from

collars

the
were

112

in
suffering

the

to do

work

landing

part of

whatsoever

with

Corsica

rain.

the

by

of the
gratification
that

could

I do
of

made

think

not

our

stand

could

it

no

piece,as

never

met

with

There

point.
among

is

always

people

moderate
are

in
are,

not

limits
disinclined

train in order
and

the

whither

the
to

else

"

do

is

the

in

the-

frankly

not

pas

les-

travel

in

this

required in

asseverated
distinctly

by

not

it

out
are

made.

was

the

brief

the
us

our

whole

tion
conversa-

and

to

the-

going

chance-medley of
to

restrict within

companions ; yet

series of

we

petty manoeuvres

chance-medley friends

our

going.

officers

of cross-examination

prompt

who

to be

vulgarlyand

was

among

always

was

member

seemed

Dutchman's

together by

put

this
he

it

even

Upright

catechisingof

they

"

gone

kind

some

may

to find

being at

fais

ne

elephant'sleg

The

thrown

travelling. Politeness

Je

"

yet mentioned

days

singularlycurt, but

was

on

in

Guards.

of the Prussian

earth

town;

hands-

their

shared

means

Dutchman

man
straighter

no

upright,because

that

erroneously supposed

the

Illustrious Gaudissart

as

I call him

one

commercial

longer.

I have

that

company.
all in

by

gloomily.

Upright

The

phiie."

he

that

remarked,

would

but
lengthreplenished,

business.

no

rub

to

in

some,

of

out

some-

and

"

the

long-drouthy

goloshes. Nothing

or

satanee

the

The

do

in

days

continued

France

natives.

he

vaterproofs,"he
umbrellas

de

wandering

driven
literally

was

their cisterns at

of the Hotel

confessed

be

five

or

thought of

the

I had

generally have

"

I may

inhabitants

and

last drenched

but

The

delightat

inmates

Bastia

at

world

the

SOUTH.

appallingcaravan.

sojournedfour

willinglyhave
capitalof

of that

coupe

on

DUE

JOURNEY

The

Upright

Dutchman

THE

all such

met

and

Going

Going

Doux

AGAIN.

and

of
persistence

the
the

Retired

"

Bronchitis.

winter.

Detest

Monsieur

lodge with
Blidah.

geon,
sur-

stationed

Long

oceans.

Sourire, near

I envied

roses."

The

LIFE

two

Algeria

to

board

to

family,Villa

with

Traversed

Navy.

Batavia.

hotels.

TO

tactics half-way.
interrogative

Dutch
at

COME

DILIGENCE

Gallonge

Terrace

covered

making

one

Dutchman.

Upright

led to my

downpour

covery,
dis-

but scarcelyimportant enough

interestingin itself,

compensate for the wretchedness

Bastia
and

is

the

of the

one

and

large blocks from

jasperedmarble,
and

wonderful

that

facade

the white

of the

But

sea-green.

If

so

rosy,

soon

marble

gleams again in

Blanc.

Preciselythe
of Bastia

at

an

expanse

peltingand
There

was

of

room

to take

monochrome

you

scarcelycare

heavy

noticed

crockets

is

about

as

in the

seen

now

the

mass,

white

as

have

Mont
ment
pave-

staringall day

rainbow-hued

by

rain.

little else to

your

phenomenon

kind

the

yellow, and

almost

paving-stonesrendered

de

after

dried the

has

sun

of

liancy
bril-

will have

so, you

blue, now

now

-gazed upon

pinnacles and

the

as

same

only

incessant

hinted, the Hotel

done

walls and

now

"

have

structures
super-

It is

Milan

way
road-

remarkable

ever

at

and

composed

Brando.

givesa

you

Cathedral

you

marble

iridescent

become

Have

Europe

of the

is

pavement

moisture

hue.

in

towns

rottenness

quarriesof

to which

varietyof

of rain ?

shower

This

native

the

of Corsica.

rainy days

magnificentside- walks

sometimes

curious.

is very

of

its

griminessand

the

the

handsomely-paved

most

between

contrast

of

to

France

meals

do

at

Bastia.

offered

in, and

you

that

was

As

have

attogyio and
all.

It

was

already
big bare
about

as

comfortless,and
for in the

not

watch

the

nearly

the

talk of the

of the

most

and

was

lading and

placesof

crowded

at

under

as,

the

tassin

has

under

the

and

rule

universal

entered,

ever

reeking

untidy in garb

ordinaryFrench
"

ordinary

"

to
one

was

soldiers

and

manner

Republic,the

his appearance

made

soldier has

in

I have

you.

listen

of Bastia

French

by

one

fan-

because,

to militaryservice,
liability

of remplagants,

abolition

the

hours

specifythe

of
dispensation

mules, and

principalcafe

rude

as

of the

become.

of the

entertainment

most

Spanish posada

courtyard,where

patio, or

The

caporal tobacco, and

of

amusing, as

so

unlading

arrieros.

dismal

SOUTH.

DUE

posada, at least,is

can

it

JOUENEY

extraordinary private

an

in the

of the

ranks

French

army.

This

is the

faut," the

of the

son

compromises

famille/' the "jeune homme

"fils de

matters

wealthy

merchant

between

the

for
voluntarilyenlisting

cavalry
form

that

these

a
socially

apart, and

enrol

do

their

have
is to

have

no

mien.
supercilious

duty, but they

get through
done

with

their

it.

"

treat these

young

fail to let it be

"fils de

known

that

they

ambition

military servitude

ordinary conscripttourlourous

The

traditional

that

to
punctiliously

their chief

that

months'

twelve

gentlemen

respect. They feel

the

do not

and

appearance

endeavour

yearning for promotion,and

pousse-cailloiix the

with

They

They

always single them

can

you

by

in the-

cases

themselves.

clean, spruce
out, owing to "their faultlessly
somewhat

himself

it is in most

But

year.

manufacturer, who

and
conscription

gilded youths

class

or

il

comme

volunteers

sociallythey

famille."

The

and

Dumanet
with

have

Landernet

sulky

nothing in

sergeants and

kind

and
and
"

of

common

corporals call

THE

"

who

gentlemen
"

them

tortured

ears

your

sit in

cannot

marble

in
confederating

of

bones

the

moisture, and

chimney,

would

doors

from
I

door in

my

did

put

in

bed-

felt

of

skill with

than

in

an

more

wall, and
oozed

moisture

appearance

the

nor

much

be

sleepingapartment

It

you.

without

room

to

hats,

their heads

windows

the

seemed

There

coats
great-

it.

free,however,

am

least

most

remarkable

the

rainbow-hued

; but

century

"

at

the

attempt

bulk
to

"

that

floor

pavement of

Bastia.

obviously be preciseas
held

of the

fictileoctagons were

heavy arm-chair

disappeared,probably

about

the

"

the
time

shape of
its way

in

floor

had

"

the

of

bed

of

disintegrated,

quite loose.
castors

been

seventeenth

or

to dates

as

rubicund

and

tiles fast had

the

Bastia

at

the

sixteenth

have

This

tiles,octagonal in form

should

drag

bed-room

phenomenal

as

periodduring the

some

this

of diversion,in

element

floor

I cannot

plasterwhich

admit

to

one

originallylaid with

and

broad-brimmed

neither

chamber

properly.

wall

presentedat

hue

soldiers in

equally damp Corsicans

of

day

the

on

gammon
back-

the

on

muttering patois with

to pass

which

shut

the

where

dice

the

playing mysteriousgames

else

of

and

of window

discipline.

sheep'strotters, eventually palledupon

and

upon

of the dominoes

French

and

overalls
and

to have
irritating

was

of
rattling

spectacleof

corners

together,or

down

"

of

the

"

are

perpetualstaccato

the

jacketsand

in velveteen

close

the

The

steaming with

and

"

Anglaises"

cafe all day, to have

dank, evil-smelling

and

boards.

serviettes

towels

115

AGAIN.

LIFE

breach
slightest

the

by

tables

TO

aux

English

use

for
mercilessly

One

the

les messieurs

derisively

them

COME

DILIGENCE

to the

of Theodore

In

the

legshad
Neuhoff,

116

of

King

Insolvent

Debtors

placed

at

least

crunch

into small

quarter of

from

"

hour

an

tiles; and
It

pieces.

and

now

again on

change

one's

hands

loose tiles

the crunched

octagons,just as though you

puzzle

map

might

be

of the

flooring
;

so

to

bell, which

withered

and

indignant about

little

the

rang

old
astonishingly
cousin

be

to

witch

hastily scuttled

were

unworthy

of

more

redress

when

"

beingfurther
this

"

"

debated

time

by

though

as

been

first

the

always

subject

did I obtain

nor

furiously
"

an

When

it had

"

it

broken

herself.

Sycorax

away,

the

might have

who

that
she replied
protestedagainstthe flooring

so," and

child's

answered

was

woman,

the

Meg Merrilies,or

been

fragmentsof

puttinga

were

knees,

together. "EventuallyI thought

world

well

as

or

to

spend

to

and

scattered

adjustingthe

replacingthe

dis

contrived

couple

relief of

the

window

the

to

quite

was

for

the Court

bedside

the

dozen

of

afterwards

Corsica, and

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

any

summoned

the

unwashed, but with

waiter,who, in his shirt-sleeves,
desperately
that the
great good humour, replied
this

There
from

nothing

was

the window

coloured

street below.

the

window-sill
the

electric

"

Stay

than

ran

like the lines

telegraph.
the

"

generalswere

Do

to

on

you

sheet

no

remember

the
intercepting
to

each

the wires

during
officer
to

in

from

more,

of music

instrument, used

sending

the many-

generallyinvisible

ingenious Confederate

and

gloomily

gaze
and

pavement

to have

long.

ere

"

length,and

arm's

at

"

cunningly contrived

Federal

done

of them

bearers

tappingthe telegraph

the

poco

to be

more

intended

"

"

to "fra

the rain-scoured

on

Civil War

American
with

seen

umbrellas, the

the

of

"

tavolato

maladetto

"

padrone

"

roam

messages

other ?

the

who,
about
which

When

from

window

my

the

find out
There

have,

so

Triana

been,

was

who

.and

sewn

front

dead

was

had

Bastia

men,

when

board

of the

name

or

was,

it

chapel.

The

borders

and

departed

Z."

"

lying dead

somebody

all classes of the

dog
we

four

o'clock

he

"

had

landed

interest

welcomed

from

the

culminated

to

at

munity,
com-

speak,

and

us

barked

Louise

Marie

the

in excitement.

"

at

about

Zanetti's.

to

Next

bring
to

forth

the

pelting rain,in

tailor's habitation

the

storeys,the ground floor of which

asserted

.his " cabinet

on

his

signboardthat

de coiffure

' '

was

was

he

was

tenanted
was

only another

that

house

of

they

dead

at

of six

by Giacometti,

hairdresser.

hole

down

state

was

port

and

sundry
who

somebody

The

at the

us

trotted up

seemingly reminding all and

"great agitation,

who

of

snipped

"

.the street, quite regardless of

were

he

children, dropped in/' so

and

like

"

rudely-

and

smirched

afternoon

the

wall

are

mortuary chapel.

About
town

throughout

shops

if Zanetti

"

mortuary

in the

he

his

drapery with

interested

women,

where

into

initial of the

the

the

proclaimedwhat

squattedon

sable

in

gipsieslive.

the

recess

converted

seemed

.Zanetti's ; and

.at the

had

"

been

with

shady

The

hung with

was

and
fringes,
All

tailor.

The

caves
rag-festooned

those

Zanetti's hutch

majority of them

holes

Seville,where

outside

some

telegraph,"and

opposite.

The

cavernous

large scale,or

on

painted sign over

had

and

possessionof

civilised world

fronts.

rule, no

dark

many

rabbit-hutches
the

as

in

staringme

the

tap

at Zanetti's

dead

somehody

"

to

in the

going on

was

was

.at Bastia

only

instrument, in order

what

wires

for the

long

117

AGAIN,

LIFE

those

saw

desperatelydid

face, how

artful little

Bastia, I

at

TO

COME

DILIGENCE

THE

in the

But

wall, the

118

to which

entrance
black

JOURNEY

SOUTH.

DUE

completely veiled by

was

stripedcurtain.

behind

From
terrified

this
It

dingy yellow and.

that

of

suddenly

shrouded

from

fabric,a

dingy sky-blue in colour, heavilybarred

head

black

and

silver

the

eyes

and

face of the

to

sent for Giacometti

I had

it he

Was

had

There

inside the

been

charityall day long, for

nuns

from

emerge

"

him

knew

wand

their

made

half

dozen

tastically
ghastlygarb.
figuresin

adult

the

Confraternityof

play in

the

waiting

the

on

indeed,

was

the

face

to them

were

of

to understand

members

part

the

next
was

to

the

another

that the

children

What

recent

same-

of the

the

to--

they all.
house

of

nies
balco-

were

Zanetti

local

were

were

floor there

"

figures,,

-concealinghoods,,

occupiedthe ground

defunct

growing

Then

windows

side,

cocked

children, arrayed in the

what

time

taker
under-

Other

and

pavement,

of

good

long

to be

storeysof

other

the

little

; but

me.

sisters

The

five

the

he ?

shaved

rusty black

seemed

began

head

was

was

nervously.

pageant perplexedme.

To

Giacometti

which

it

his

gaberdineswere

blue

Death

dismal

for ?

by
"

the

on

the

two

arranged.

of office

his watch

at

appearance

adjoinedabout
fan

once

be

for

holes

But

sky-blue garberdines and

in

shrouded

looked

at

breast

for the first time

of death.

processioncould

hat, his steel chain, and

impatient,and

saw

the

Who

mortuary chapel

now

house

the

before the funeral

himself

bands-

two

he had

transformed

"

with

completely over

morning, and

man

woollen

On

silver.

sky-bluegaberdine.
that

tall

some

hood, with

drawn

figureopposite

the

"

garberdineof

hideous

was

in the

man

was

of tarnished

cross.

through,

see

me.

in

foot

to

black, relieved by bosses

of
a

figurethat

forth

drapery came

"

if

he,

six-storeyed
tenement,,

120

been

hat,

waiting.
able

was

brought
the

the

The

coffin

street

the

buglers

the

street

went

on

.also

the

had

soldiers

French

had

panting
the

way,

is

by

gone

the

their

the

fanfare.

lively

that

corpse

music

to

his

had

and

the

The

died

had

sounding
rain

obsequies.

more

rains

Death.

of

crossed

swinging

along,
his

halted

officer

until

braying

down

the

narrow

soldiers

the

shrilly

on,

by

borne

procession

Then

come.

they

Zanetti's,

at

bier

the

their

disappeared

the

And

last.

came

ceased

and

dog

bugles

at

cocked

black

rusty

Confraternity
As

momentarily

clairons

which

martial

the

of

before.

of

happy

Well,

pall,

company

procession

up

blue

walked

sounding

and

who

brethren

children

somebody

light

blue-garberdined

the

men,

with

covered

little

the

the

procession

the

of

body

with

undertaker,

marshal

to

the

out

the

So

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

and

than

this

ever.

one

IX.

SUNDAY

AT

AJACCIO.

October

AJACCIO,

IT

in

were

hours'

nineteen

washed

by
"

archaoologists

have

and,

centuries

many

with

quoted

he

when

that

so

exiguous
of

construction
astonishment

either

through
of

the

that
the

to

the

me,

head

roof,

or

little

accursed

incapable

place

our

of

the
of

during
of
that

the
his

our

shandrydan,

crooking,

and

his

did

and

for
knees

was

go

his

of

boy

so

hours'

not

was

ever,
howthe

crazy

chronic

cause

incarceration,
did

through
neck

the

to

as

Dutchman

Upright
feet

undergone;

just hint,

may

it

nineteen

his

Winchester

proportions
that

ginian
Cartha-

Regina"

torture,

vin-

Dido

Elizabeth

Queen

by

were

the

had

the

by

dinner

"

Queen

he

you

some

"Infandum

the

JEneas,

what
been

to

foundation.

ancient

that

of

our

Diligence

copious

have

appositeness

interrogated

of

"

which

woes

later,

singular
was

discipline

of

the

recall

to

by

to

the

Ajaccio.

admitted

frankly

champagne,
reluctance

and

conjectured

of

coupe

chalices

spuming

"

the

the

by

during

servant

refreshed

when

even

down

in

Bastia

between

undergone

agonies

humble

your

captivity

Again

remember,

the

on

and
close

Life

to

will

dwell

to

Dutchman

Upright

Come

vain

22.

the

seemed

hingeing,

not

as

go
floor

to

ever.

as
bo-

122

About

had

of

chair

dignityof
the

the

he

weather

occasion

of his

when,

plunging into

ravine

in the

of

the

distant

the

Upright Dutchman,

canon

metallic

voice.

which

had

Canaille

!"

Ajaccio is
immense

progress

had

in

the

expected that

its

and
"

so

Batastances.
circum-

dampness

journey,and

narrow

the

most

to

lost

we

!"

staccato

sight of

exclaimed

"

of

his

Batavia

the

at

sneer

remind

tones

Bastia, Basta, Bestia !

parting

Corsica

road, and

as

Adieu, Bastia

country

Canaux, Canards,

match.
long-deferred

railway between

of construction.

the

mountain

of Mexico,
"

that

As

the

Bastia

work

and

involves

tunnellingthrough the livingrock, the

railway

within

sincere

my

capitalof

"

of

amount

of

in

record

course

of

viatorial

of the

hospitality,Adieu

found

fair to

deep

Voltaire's

him

I cannot,

displayedby

of the

angle

harbour.

Adieu

and

given

It is but

The

"

avenged,

was

an

and

town

he

tribute

commercial

to the

Cumbus

"

out, and

manifestinganything approaching a

so

one

the

that, but for the

discouragedeither by

short

turning a

Irish
of

walked.

discomfort

man
Dutch-

bottom

came

adverse

most

horrible

the

or

the

to be

not

paying

cheerfulness

resolute

was

the

have

lated
strangu-

sanguine

observed

well

as

half-

Upright

the

being conveyed

was

feelingpersonallyhostile
was

into

time, refrain from

He

the

that

century who, when

last

to the

only

I dreamt

thing,he might

same

of the

perturbed and

metamorphosed

acquaintanceunder

vian

the

into

touching the pavement,

the

admiration

SOUTH.

DUE

I think

in which

felt his feet

at

; and

been

gentleman
sedan

I sank

midway

slumber

JOURNEY

is

necessarilyvery

couple of

Messageries Company

are

years

even

slow

it will be

thinking

of

; but

it is

completed.

importing

engines from

traction

some

little Tuscan
The
so

and

numerous,

times

-cominghere

the

the

darkness

of

and

the

horses
the

the

bridge

their

die

bridge, and

Of

conducteurs

capacityof
"

of

in
travelling

and

"

or

his

the

on

his

leg

side of

plenteous

.badly-constructed,

there

is

strictlyprohibitedfrom

of absolute

"

destitute

roadside
condition.

vehicle, conveying

reward

arisingmay

cases

of

the

an

Such

be measured

by

unfortunate

person

Christian

the

the

the

ductor
con-

charity,to
to

"

take

tion,
his destina-

of route, without

of
probability

sity."
neces-

absolutelyfootsore,

le malheureux

line
diligence's

; and

in

and

exceeding the

necessity contemplates some

the

with

duly-settledquota;

"

by

is that

only with luggage,but

not

are

Absolute

his

these

last

if it be in the
of fee

had

machines
carelessly-driven

is authorised, for the sake

board

killed

were

with

three

driver, to fracture

escaped

way-bills, except in

their

exhausted, and

on

of them

the

being found

person

The

diligencegrounded by

constantlyoverladen,

are

passengers.
the

lamps

asleep,missed

conducteur

passengers

danger

normal

horsed,
indifferently-

they

The

of his

torrent.

the

my

of bruises.

allowance
The

the

is at all

after

days

himself

two

went

place."

"sur

Fortunately, the

broken.
the

backs

diligences.
turnings are

dimness

mountain

over

the

in
Ajaccio diligence,

the

been

having

and
precipice,

the

Over

and

skull

his

the

Two

and

Bastia

night,aided by

the

over

spot.

of the

driver

the

for

sharp, that locomotion

so

gravest peril.

the

of
possibility

went

substitute

present drag

at

curves

fraught with

little wooden

as

tolerablygood condition, but

is in

road

France,

which

horses

123

AJACCIO.

AT

SUNDAY

absolute

circumstance

kind

any

sity
neces-

that

the

124

interior of Corsica

of Africa.

called

is

There

wretched

the

of such

idea

undeniably a

it

practically
opens
of

system

well

persons,

of the

and
the

one.

door

an

the

already half

to

conductor
"

convenient

some

which

eyes, wait

part of

they
parties,
and

clamber

in

half

the

the

driver, or

covers

the

over

the

are

of

of the-

All

kinds of

for the

passing

and

on

overweighted

the

four

on

equally pleasant

to its

coupe

having

interieur,

wheels

in these

would, in all likelihood,vehemently

Jericho
allowed
The

and, given

gravity ceases

diligencegoes.

expense

duly inscribed

are

on

broken

vans,

luggage.

dent
impu-

the route, and,

both

stifled and

turn, the centre

farer
way-

farmers, marketpriests,

"

private arrangement

passengers

usually top-heavy

for

behalf

most

carrottage."

little

fictitious folks from

behind

and

at the

protestagainstthe irruptionof
these

but

malheureux?

extended

in the conductor's

little cellular

wretched

; and

at

Unfortunately,however,

their fares

able to pay

to
profitable

As

obtained

destitute

the

in the

is termed

way-billas malheureux,

sides.

be

to

the

by courtesy

are

horses

conductor

charitable

system

concluded

doubtless

the

enrichingthe

at
diligence

lodging is

nor

intervention

the

find favour

"

cabins, which

diligencechanges

an

very

This

company.

procured at

die.
probability

in all

is

women

board

be

rail and

the interior

as

savage

lodging to

nor

stone

charity of

authorised

The

as
substantially

of

villages. Nor

would

by
fortyhours' travelling

food

no

little groups

the stations where

the

is

"

SOUTH.

DUE

within

"

Paris

from

steamer

JOURNEY

are

to

the

sham

thrust

sprawl

result

into the

banquette

the

tarpaulin

on

is that

steep incline
to

be

unfortunates,

within

or

the vehicle
a

the

very

is

sharp

base, and

AT

SUNDAY

I declare

the

delightat

that

transformation

did

when

in

scene

I found

the

about

But
shone

and

ten

first

through

of

half

You

smashing down,

had

Monte

boughs
from

as

lettuce,beaten

in

seen

those

silver

rain

from

the

rends

cactus

and

ambiguously peeping at
of
the
All

argent.

The

triumphant

whole
sun

is brilliance of
is alive.

The

trees

were

not

broken

are

wings

and

shrubs

rent

sun

moisture

and

or, half

; but

grow

dead
legs,'

tiny friends

in the

jungle.

and

solation
de-

out,

comes

colour.
to

seem

the

bushes

transformation
of

moss

leaves

outer

anon

scene.

thing
Everyvisibly.

^chantingmerrily,as though

of their

del

away

wreck

the

gorgeousness

and

trees

full of birds

hecatombs

the

Real

haze, half of

forest steams with

consummates

pillarsof

pricklypear

ceases,

literally

of

the

scattered

the

Mexico,

strippedthe

away

sun

of silver

come

trees,

the

through

first

lightand

The

rain

the

Then

in

or

mines

has

the

o'clock,had

iron-shod

the

risen

of clouds.

half

has

huge
at

ore

housewife
the

rain

The

had

had

sun

haze

Cuba,

flat,killed the birds by hundreds, and

all around.

the

hours'

Dark

ceased, and

luminous

creepers

skilful

rain

the

liquefied.The

become

innumerable

the

and

have

the

Ajaccio.

seemed, which, by eleven

though

as

than

into the

huge purple-blackmasses

rainstorm.

crush

that

timber

it

transformed

at

and

splendour of

nineteen

our

dawn, and

wondrous

may

violent

and

Sunday

morning

gold,so

fullylifted.
sudden

the

the

in

Bastia

before the

strugglewith

in feeble

from

that

been, indeed, the hour

of

desolation

savage

of

enchanting beauty

its fullest

to

Boxing Night pantomime

mountains

the

journey over

experiencedgreater astonishment

never

gradual development

the

125

AJACCIO.

there

with
relatives,

126

So

it at

was

ripple on

Ajaccio.

the

delicious

odour

lemon, orange

of

least,

and

found

for

the

carriageof

dimensions

miles.

fare

; the

For

Marseilles

and

Paris

traversed

distance

Upright

Dutchman.

did

not

passage

domestic
with
no

sour

the

more

to

him

see

Algiers,and
delights of

temper,

the

Villa

all covered

terrace

about

he

that

me

and

than
who

as

used

with
a

from

by

no

the
able

was

Bastia.

the

For

unwieldy

means

in

me

pay,

being

coupe

less than

to

hundred

between

francs

part

his

but

the

with

company

usual

sudden

hope

is in the
Doux

he

that

was

he

gone,
had

with

bad

of

Sourire, near
I dare

he

was

metallically

enjoyment

roses.

person
the

squabblinghotly, and

more.

any

gence
Dili-

the

overcharge
disgraceful

paid nine

came

of

when

from

miles.

was

when

noon

portmanteau

in
incisively,

but

laconic way,

and

of

same

likewise

tell how

not

eventually made

six hundred

was

protestingcalmly,
strident

to be

traversed

the

last,hut

resoluteness

passenger

of

I had

I cannot

sure

am

distance

the

high

at

luggage

and

me,

for

transit

the

what

singleportmanteau

ing
sing-

Messageries office,on

of my

conveyance

twenty francs, and

the

the

and

"

I considered

they charged

francs

nine

in

Again

The

being sultry elastic,

soundly, landed

not

which

that

life ; and

; the

chestnuts

Ajaccio

was

with
Napoleon, resisting,

command,

the

Life

to

and

without

This

Not

sky.

plants,citron

and

human

of

the

Mediterranean.

the

flowers

warm

but
myself safely,

Cours
to

hum

busy

serene.

Come

of

and

in

cloud

myrtle, almonds

atmosphere

an

balmy,

fruits

and

of birds ; the

Not

surface

glassy

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

say he

and

good

all the

Blidah,

thought

cough

and

strongest of strong language

128

main

stony

But

passed

the

forgot all
I

"

of

out

"

The

streets of

and

of

of sanitation

bolgian.
females

consider

As

in this

it

nor

possibleto

was

should

for

all his

with

the first happy

after

long

and

Sultan's

court, it

man

or

be

fancied

quest

in

found

discovered

terns,
slat-

the

children

To

that

be

want

Male-

class of
bound

to

who
philosopher,

good

and

dictment
in-

afraid

am

humbler

should

of the

happy

marked
re-

without

the

tudinarian
vale-

by his physician,as

ailments, to change shirts

that he could

being was
was

of the
we

advised

was

real

earnest

felicitous

that

lower

and

slovens

forgetthe Oriental apologue of

we

Sultan, who

remedy

think

apophthegm

tolerant

the
that

socks

town, I

sunny

the

Ajaccio is simply

imperfect attire

the

to

"

the

sanitation,or, rather,the

The

as

that

assert

brief for Corsica, I

streets of

back

the

much

as

condition.

entirelynude

plead guilty.

I must

terrible

First

the

Continentals

"

to

imperfectlyattired,and

almost

an

Corsicans

wont

blessed

one

exceedinglydirty,that

population are

very

in

are

territoryof

the

spot,nor

and, indeed, all

collectively,
are

Ajaccio

are

about

dislike the
"

likewise

birthplaceof

the

other

delightfulscenes

and

new

and

Dutchman

lovelier

no

temporarilyholding a
that

little way

thirst

Certainly in

myself.

French

female

class of the

the

French, who

and
individually

run

amid

is

and

Upright

climate, than

latter dislike the

back

the

Republic there

Emperor.
the

mind

my

lovelier

station

hunger

my

that

I found

French

with

about

afraid

am

which

among

at

town.

miseries

SOUTH.

DUE

street,to change horses

of the

out

JOURNEY

many

and

that

come

But

across.

lands, such

an

brought

the

the

happy

to
man

when,
tionally
excep-

ailing
had

no

ON

THE

BEACH

AT

AJACCIO.
P.

128

"shirt.

and

that

sexes

to the

up
as

go,

soft

rather

.shoes.

not, to
red

or

that

would

the

friable

I noticed

vulgarism,

have

on

can

bring them

their

fingers and

which

are

me

of the

hdtelets

what

by

French

silvered

or

"

"

or

or

the
saw

in

their

and

true

of

trious
Illus-

fair

ears

of

lovers'

together with

into the back

skewers, which,
and

hair,

chaufroid

de

transfixing

cockscombs,

chefs for the artistic embellishment

de volaille

and

pins always remind

strangely-bedizened

truffles, champignons,
luscious-looking
used

that

not ;

stuck

vourite
fa-

hatchets, sword-hilts, anchors, and

crosses,

liberty. These

of

are

hearts

the

serge

France.
and

be

of butterflies,
by effigies
beetles,

surmounted

lizards, Maltese
caps

rings,and

prodigioussilver pinswhich

of black

necks

had

women

grown-up

from

were

calfskin,

to

voyant colours

"

shoes

papouches

seemed

"

and

indeed,
slippers,

"

Turkish

bodices

ornaments

cable

knots, serpent and

up

hose

Undressed

for the

skirts of the most

The

flat soles

sisters to

Sundays

on

silver
clumsily-fashioned

and

and

probably,

most

former.

the

with

As

worn.

Gaudissart

displayalso

home-knitted

turned
slightly

affect

velveteen, and

twin

been

been

only

.girls,
they

take off its shoes

to

to much."

up

bordered, and

chaussures

those

for

"

black

toes

The

sandy, indeed,

pleasantprevalenceof

frequentfabric

the climate.

somewhat

one,

of both

otherwise.

most
use

consider

But

linen

extensive,

not

children

the

twelve

or

worsted,
Coarsely-ribbed

the

was

ten

impulsiveyouth

Sunday

on

and

invites

stockingsthan
But

of

age

rule, barefoot.

soil,too, is
and

display of body

the

week-days

on

proletarianpopulationof Ajacciois

the

among

that

own

129

AJACCIO.

AT

SUNDAY

cailles

en

of

are
"

preme
su-

Bellevue."

130

of

Some

the

of

women

stuff
the

the head

over

Tuscan

that

they

are

hair

of mind
mal

"

have

earned

sunburnt, generallygaunt of visage and

and

now

Roman

again

you

nose,

high

come

Such

mien

brought her

of four

brothers.

You

working

is due

fountains

Nearly

play in

in

of

brow,

the

muscle

of

result

of

contadine

fellaheen women
The

of

Corsica
of

Egypt

French, who

other

well

walk

thoroughly

as

for

upper

and
but

dence,
indepen-

Paoli.

Take

"

is the

He

"

last

three."

peasant

magnificently

rule

"

This

superb

repairingto
the

peasant

favoured, the

women

at first difficult

mien, but

Corsican

that

bearing
the

very

by magnificentblack

up

majesty of port.

and

water

the

race,

mentary
uncompliare

stern

patriotgeneral.

of the

surprisingdignityand

the

the

recruit for

had

to the custom

the

as

of Corsica

women

for

every

and
a

had

have

erect, robust, Juno-like

into

have

son

young

scarcely, as

Although
and

lit

she said to the

of him,"

care

whole

must

Andalu-

the

who, in the last struggleof the islanders

woman

painfully

firmly-chiselled
lips, a

cheek-bones,

superbly-roundedchin, the
eyes.

broad

across

over

They

penadas."

the

"

becomes

it

of

manner

friz out

"

to

shockinglyill-kemptas

out

of

sobriquet

light-coloured

some

chin, after the

the

bareheaded

go
as

time

who

women,

under

they

of

fazzoletto

allowing the

When

manifest
sian

and

women,

temples.

tie

veil,of

ragged black

the

Ajaccio wear

Nizzardes, others

the

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

jars
lower

the

public

their

on

limbs

is

riage
car-

heads^

brought

eventually facile

tion,
opera-

is
to jar-carrying
long apprenticeship

supplenessof gait.
share
and
are

this
with

for

ever

It

is true

accomplishment with
the
on

sable
the

Danaes

that
the

of Dahomey.

alert to discover

in

motes

their custom

They

convertingtheir

of

these

slim

often

shared

by

mere

This

French

recent

and

that

to

Corsicans

modern

capacityof
An

of resinous

handsome

essential

plentyof

Strabo

seem

to be

supply

water

leaves

for those

Earracks.

who
or

ancient

to six

choose

to

rather
the

gallons

an

that
the

idea of the

servitude.
into

Ajaccio by

supply

desired
come

thralls

poor

of; "but

with

brought

be

saw

Corsicans

slaves

rudest

to

Corsica

jars containing

house-to-house

The

the wall beneath

This

is

of

he
village,

lightthe

to

make

for the

or

ing
preceded gravely,bear-

fullyimbued

much

principalpublic fountain,
Napoleon,in

husbands

wilds

heads

said of the

of water

aqueduct.
element

wood

to

seen

bending under

their

the

their

relatives

male

has

comfortably bestriding

explorerof

their womankind

abundant

"

makis

"

them,

good enough

not

were

the

their

on

femmes."

he

that

states

are

striding

"

des

five
twenty-five litres-r-say

their

way.

labours

afflicting
tacle,"
spec-

"

an

fuel, while

for

spectacleof

twelve

la vassalite

Corsica

girlscarrying on

twenty

their weary

term

"

from

and

burden.

jarsnicelybalanced

rulingrace

in

of

the

whose

"

evening, passingthrough

one

of young

from

"they

the

Another

flaming branches
on

full

the

brushwood

of water, while

"

of ten

girlsemerging

mules.

ponies or

each

children

tranquillyfollowed

brothers

troop

matrons

traveller

heavy fardels of

relates

poetic in

speak indignantlyof

and

women

into beasts

women

robust

with

majesticpace

parietalbones.

and

damsels

insulars for

bitterly
reproach the

eye,

nothing picturesquenor

see

with

Corsican

the

131

AJACCIO.

AT

SUNDAY

but

and

there

watering-placeis thronged

the
is

fetch it. The

conduit, is in the

esplanadeof

of

Cours

the

St. Francois

from

sunrise

to

132

JOUKNEY

by

sunset

of

groups

replenished; and,

judge from

to

not

from

miseries

the

might
varied

of the

and

knee

of

women

jars;

vessel

plashing jets;

and

place, spilling no,

not

"

squaring of

assured

an

forward"

the

tread

ill-used

poor

in

their

massive

undulation

of the

"

of burden

beasts

"

appointed

with

easy

and

right foot pointed straight

the

"

lifted
up-

their heads

to

drop. Then,

one

one

ears," they slowly

water

shoulders, a slightand

the

hips,and

jars

the

burden
dis-

to

last,they stoop again

at

as,

pots full of

earthern

adjustthe huge

the

"

dustriou
in-

studies

with

restingthe jar on

by

shrill

he

they stoop

as

as,

amazing dexterityraise

with

and

the

the

day

every

be

intolerable

painter,were

sketch-book

of

talk and

suffer to any

they

slavery.

holding the

the

fill it from

of
a

postures

their animated

that

seem

fillhalf

themselves

bringingtheir jarsto

gossipingwomen

laughter,it would
extent

SOUTH.

DUE

their

go

on

the

slightest

way.
I

saw

never

in

movement

The

sit

or

not

idleness.

to

the

by

score,

like

than
Mr.

There

velveteen

brims

"

they

be

sombrero

of

or

by

are

some

Mexican

cousins

to

tented
con-

prowl

or

in

this

industry,

dozen, by the

scowling,clad

woollen

than

the

hats
hat

somewhat

They

in reduced

in

stuff which

wideawake

feathers, and
ranchero.

the

and

grey

larger

the

s
Henry Irving'
country

apart,

stimulated

swarthy,

somewhat

minus
Bersagliere,

the

should

blanketing,and wearing felt

exaggerated
Italian

stand

abundant
superfluously

hundred, meagre,

shabby jacketsof
looks

benches

make

all appearance

to

Corsicans

natives

the

Corsicans

toilingyet

male

the

on

country, where
and

male

aid of these

women.

about,

of the

any

with
of

an

smaller

all look

like

circumstances.

X.
"

HOTEL

THE

TOO

SOON.

AJACCIO,

heard

HAVE

declare

to

truly

enjoyable
in

few
of

out

thousands

of

attainable

the

for

of

end

the

of

repairs

executed

and

tea

to

dry

up

carpetless

of

tools,

sorry
to

toast

becomes

hotel

whitewashers,
from
It

stairs,
to

spectacle.

some

Pall
is

and
in

He

the

stumbling

had

betake

himself

Palace,

until

better

Crystal

carpenters

and

to

and

upholsterers

the

dead
and

tunity
oppor-

Scotland
all

or

on

necessary

his-

taking

and

others

to

the

toiling

or

paint-pots
and

ruler

the

coffee-room,
over

is
"

August

Gentleman

Old

burden

as

of

of

middle

cleaned

Selfish

himself

is not,

in

of

sense

everybody

middle,

being

the

"

Society

usually improve

members

most

of

season

being

the

half-dismantled

or

"

the

in

even

club-house

the

the

near

the

the

have

or

committee

of

the

enjoyability

of

between

the

majority

the

in
"

are-

is

cluh

dead

the

people

state

that

reason

September

Continent

the

this

of

who

gentlemen

"West-end

close

well-dressed

beginning,

the

when

everybody

But

at

the

old

selfish

period

is towards
when

town.

season,

the

London,

of

class

that

wont

year

of

October.1%.

baskets
sad

and

Brighton,
painters

have

or

and

departed

Mall.
towards

the

close

of

the

recess

it is
"

during

the

fort-

night or
the

that

"

splendidmansion

whole

is not

place.

There

shelves

of the

from

back

speck of

the

dust

The

several

easy-chairsof

new

placedin

the

have

and

got rid

been

Of

all these

much

he

as

for in the
kind

any

feels towards
the

There
chance

were

for

many

eyeing

his

graspingsecurelyat
springupon

him

selfish old

his

with

Fortunately for

ones,

who, like other

his

the

gentlemen

much

as

the

left behind

days
"

one

neighbour

on

hip his dagger,in

the

knife

Queen's
are

not

concealed
peace,
the

the

hours

should
is

Meduse

the

wrecked
one

do?

scarcely
egoist

one

the

forward,

with

he

which

of

crew

as

congeners

there

that

of his

few

as

malevolence

waterlogged deck

the

on

of

When

men

met

additional

stupidservants

avoids

He

bitter than

more

another.

they

been

some

with

master.

catalogue

hatred

they lived

new

have

and

new

Gentleman,

dislikes them

and

raft two

other, each

and

whole
of

replacedby

Selfish Old

the

can,

reading.

clean.

is lord

congeners,

on

of and

are

; and

barometer

new

brooms, sweep

new

There

come

cured, and

been

improved pattern

an

newspaper-room.

umbrella-stand

winter

has

billiard-room

in the

smoky chimney

the

on

or

its-

their brand-new-

comfortable

and offering
gladpromiseof
jackets,

The-

in

magazines have

of

shiningin

and

binder's,spruce

books

the

on

stacks

library. Whole

The

have

smiths

the

fixed
days past,is finally

many

life again of

to

garnished.

at which

kitchen,

the

these

hammering

been

swept and

been

has

in

boiler

steam

new

coming

thoroughly enjoyable.

cluh is most

the

135

SOON.

immediately precedingthe

so

season

TOO

HOTEL

THE

set off

ship-

aft.

If

they crept by
wolfish

up

each

glare, and

the other

case

by

should

his sleeve.

club

hours

of other

of

some

selfish

old

ISO

gentlemen,

and

club

he

which
for the

own,

JOURNEY

each
has

DUE

SOUTH.

in turn

may

look

himself.

to
practically

The

moment.

obsequious

hall

porter, the butler,the little pages

and

vavasours.

table

The
for

gleam

neatly cut,

the

and
library,

the

of the

likes it.

few

club

will have

Selfish Old
hotel

but, for

and

is

an

the

avenue

the'

of

say
corner

house
be

ever

real

is
must

of

be

Soon.

Military Hospital, a

Cours
very

for

on

the
my

size,on
the

acacias, and

and

indeed

the

Place

the

like the

days,

some

presentlyunderTo

do

Too

the

Cours

Place
in

so

may

am

mature,
pre-

Soon
The

memory.

the
mania
Ger-

Grandval,

du

summer

Diamant.
time

intolerablydusty.

du

with
large building,

endure

hostelryis La

Hotel

be

trary,
con-

day.

solecism, since it is I that

if not
slightly,

of the

the

much

of this

Too

tame-

begin,and

had

Hotel

startingfrom
with

have

will

engraved

planted

Eobinson

On

every

you

as

in the

thingswill
will

fare

reviews

screen

him.

which

; but

the

circulating

is the

masters

name

edifice of considerable

spacious boulevard

.should

At

not

will

Germania

reasons

commission

the

and

The

of

solitude,and the

season

have, and

to call it the

.stand,I choose
involve

the

winter

The

myself.

his vassals

the

present writing,at Ajaccio,very

I

are

the

He

shocking to

of lords

Gentleman.

from

surveys.

he courts

The

hundreds

all to

Germania

in

this blissful state

But

days.

more

I feel at the

"The

all he

is far from

waiters

only

of

his.

dailybill

telegrams displayedon

latest

are

toasted, magazines and

sent

the

is his

shiningplateon

is the

solace

novels

newest

of civilisation ; but

he

;an

his

muffins

are

is monarch

He

Crusoe
ness

; for

for him

-composed ;

hall.

him

servants

and

prideon

fireside

The

in buttons

damask

snowy

with

round

Diamant
a

is the

pleasantgarden

the

on

side

sanatorium
There
and

at the

"

"

have

during the

San

independence.
poor

saint

L'Ouverture, whom

"

justwrested

from

what

after the

the

capture of

after

Knights

by

regiments who

Yorktown

Not

ten

of St.

the

by* no

American

citizens

patriotswho
several
Atkins
In

means

"

were

lineal

Cours

chief

"

off to

but

"

in

terned
in-

Malta,

I should

There

became

of the

like

those

the

the

British

of the

surrender
war

of
ever

best, it may

became

quite possiblethat

the

bulk

prisonersof

They made

strange

are

at the

arms

at Yorktown
of

Tous-

soldiers

shipped

to

humidity

negro

bargain, and

it is

oratiDg

descendants

of the year
the

; and

heroic

English.

cent, of

bad

the negroes

by Napoleon

John.;

their

returned, I believe,to England.

be, of

"

strangely expatriatedAfricans

laid down
per

time

What

disappearancesin history.
British

The

stood

soldiers,
brought

struggleof

to their

Joux.

interned

"

were

sent to die of cold and

he

Malta

story which

hospitalonce

shown

was

of these

became

traditional

of negro

showed

he

Ajaccio were

at

dysentery

and smiling
"bright

cells of which

mercy

fortress of

of the

casemate

to know

than

is

after the final

More

these

to

hundreds

many

Domingo

slaves

which

the site of the

on

the cloisters and

Consulate

hither from
for

owing

to me,

read, to the effect that

monastery, in

Ajacciohospitalnow.

grim interest

from

convalescents

"

as

garrisonsof Algeria.

the

present aspect of

the

place

frequentlyused

is

from

Tunisia

from

137

SOON.

which

and

sea,

sick soldiers

soldiers

typhoid

"has

for

are

The

the

next

TOO

HOTEL

THE

contented
the

among

other

day

were

private Thomas

1781.
Grandval

is the

Bishop's palace, and

tumbledown-looking premisesof
struggling,

the

"

Petit

the

Semi-

138

naire," about

the

Place

the

calf is like

is the

Cours

the

roomy

edifice,with

eightyto
the

with

Napoleon
On

up.

the

and

pianoforteand

Too

Hotel

In the mile

well, not
Swiss
this

the

and

papers,
instant

the

October

"

is

issues

Petit
a

The

then

large,

is throughout
I should

say

drawing-room

and

German,

supplied with

of

but

latest

the

cities of

the

"

Germanthe

on

but

English

Galignaniysome

MarseiUais

the

small

containinga

copious "abonnement"

and

journals of England

is

It

d manger

large bookcase

latest

very

side of the

superb saloon, luxuriouslyfurnished,

reading-room

The

on

elephant

an

style,and

Soon.

library of French,
carefully-selected
literature.

as

other

in

guestsmight dine.

hundred

Corsican

elegant privatemansion, with

an

clean.

see

lounging

loftyand airyapartments, and

floor is

ground

the

Germania,

scrupulouslyneat

on

cousins

garden, thoroughly Italian

comes

from

Conti,

Chateau

and

terrace

the Cours

and

elephantgrown

an

sometimes

may

swarthy, down-looking
long-legged,

Marche

du

you

Henry Irving's country

like Mr.

lads, as

of which

gateway

of

loitering
groups

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

25th

chief

the

to

of

is to

Continent

begin.
On

25th,

the

salle d manger

just

now

being

good enough
for the

being used

is not

it is

marshalled

will be

you

being dusted
with

and

table.

purpose

of

decorated, and

which

That

Elkington paraphernaliais being unpacked

and

mustard-potsare

of

candelabra

canvas

begin

matting,and

to show

there

are

about

on

themselves

chairs
down
be

distant visions of

are

the

termed

cruet-stands

buffets ; the

through

The

table d'hote

and

may

the

scattered

tne

precision
up

mathematical

sides of the interminable

to understand.

reft

branches

veils of

platedepergnes

cake-baskets.

"and

viands

milords

to the

Anglais

Teutons, the

high,

well-born

States

of America, the

societyof

Germania.

the

before

you

that

taken

Ministre

expected at

from

the

that

Grand

but

latest

very

show

endorsed

by

that date

due

are

that
at

female, who

for four years

speaks

she

dinner

of

cuisine

order."
fortifying
; but

"25th.

In

mind's

my

and
"cigarette

Urbain

is not

he

which

may

There

is

the cook
eye

"

see

"

him

glassof vermouth,

Dubois

in

at

since

Monsieur

reverend

le

man
gentle-

With

fiable
justiattendre

the sable-clad

by

tongues, and

is

waiters

real

who

of

tells

Midland
luncheon

serves

as
qualified

solitary

at the

cook, she informs

the

Church

ecclesiastic who

Daily she
be

told

Ajaccio.

many

Hotel, St. Pancras, London.

have

"pour

chambermaid

was

refined

years

25th.

estimable

the

to

The

the

by

letters

me

some

little place.

yet arrived.

not

of Zurich

Canton

house

and

the

It is

25th.

Swiss

stout

and

has

Anglican
for

in

winter

the

pass

present the waitingdepartment is undertaken

At

me

the

"

addressed

Tarrivee," and
on

in the

Scandinavia

from

the 25th.

on

United

pleasantand

the

commodious

kindly interest

pride they

"due

is

to

English lady, who

an

Anglican

is

Always

there

Ajaccio,built by
has

Ajaccio and

of

climate

delicious

the

coming

charming

of the

families"

distinguished
guests

the

the
princesses,

princes and

are

proper

serve

miladis, the

the

"first

Countries, who

Low

and

Russian

the

English "meesses,"

.and the

and

Zurich, will glide about

of

Canton

the

in

ranged

waiters, hailingmainly

sable-clad,white-cravated

order, and
from

all will be

25th

the

By

139

SOON.

TOO

HOTEL

THE

"

me,

chef will arrive

simple
in the
on

the

leisurely
scanning,over
the

pages

of

Jules

Gouffe

quest of fresh culinarycombinations

to

140

palatesof

the

tempt

boyards,the
from

he

broche"
the

For

sometimes

the

from

mean,

for
a

"

palates;
and

sound

sold

"

is

but

at

the

from

all

and

some

fault

of

at

and

and

"

too

spicuous.
con-

the

"

to

but

figs

Cette, at Bercy,

honestly sold

as

such

or

the

St.

"

vins

the

of

coupes," the1

world.

French

It

is

are

tainly
cer-

home

at

or

vineyards,and

sold

Bordeaux

as

in

articles in which

delP

"
"

Italians

is

cany,
Tus-

Estephes, which

wines

grapes

sweet

"

uva

passa

"

beginning, not

are

many

millions

being annually exported

are

of

from

manipulated into spuriousBordeaux

at Bordeaux
are

the

That

country

Chianti

the

complain that, while

to be

of the

manufactured

dried

of their wines

Leghorn

the

are

or

little too

innkeepers,either

the

Spain ;

reason,

francs' worth
Genoa

biftek

"

fying"
forti-

despised.

wine

red

civilised

the

over

the Continent

and

Italy

without

de

busy brain

dessert

be

unlike

ambiguous

basis is either wine

the

entree

normally

the

wines

preferredto

proportionof

enormous

England

"'

sautes

"

unconquerable,I

"

are

fine ; and

abroad, if the phylloxerahas ruined

an

cutlet

kings

simple but

tractable

"

ordinary

be

and

present

the

not

if

his
"

excellent,although

to
certainly

equivocal Medocs
being

the

gristle

pleasantvintage,not

is

and

of

Corsican

native

the

Pompeiano

some

view

and

"jeune poularde en

always

not

cattle

"

should

called

"

salmis

"

resignedlyto

fish is very

the

the

especially superb.

grapes

Nor

what

Muscovite-

the

and

excogitatedfrom

the

point of

But

and

25th

unconquerable mutton
the

and

Vaterland

the

submits

in which

menu

milords

have

not

one

nonce

English

devised; what

he

may

SOUTH.

the

By

have

not

the

DUE

from

barons

Nebraska.

may

JOURNEY

at

the Italian
itself,

discount

in

the

way

vintages

of prestige

142

and

named

was

its

indeed

the

On

to whom

of the

slopes are

all thick

while

inner

and

in

I think

of

Villa Doux

the

Upright

Dutchman

of these

gay

roof

the

and

and

and

base

at the

the
flowers

that

which

gentry

the

defunct.
of the

An

the

of the

entombment

figs and

his

Corsican

cacti and

the

prickly pears,

lavingthe steps of

earthiness

of

the

only a

type

"

the

churchyard
the

of
cross

nobility
think

pleasant to

hill,among

the

The

mortuary

many

of the

of

the

of

boos,
bam-

innumerable
the

blue, tide-

sepulchre. Nothing
pert

; no

or

canting

undertaking statuary

over

"

the

tomb

by

the

of

shore

sea.

for

But
born

truth, so

ashes

blind

are

closelysealed.

and
hues, the birds carolling,

of radiant

Euston-road

the

in

are,

walls

one

find that

closely,you

is

the

approach

you

the

solitarydoor

verdant

Barbary

dank

when

flowers.

to which

Blidah,

that

cross,

stupid epitaphs; nothing

or

He

by

repose

less Mediterranean
of the

But

embosomed

are

brightwith

are

Sourire, near

smiling structures

chapels,in

some

like

temples, now

They

smilinglittle structures

is surmounted

windows,
gay

and

casini.

bound.

was

are

with

itself is dotted

resemblingGreek

of

shore

the

vegetation;
sub-tropical

carriage road

the facades

lovelyplants,and

Street

in St. Charles

gentry of Ajaccio. The

with

like Venetian

who

unhappy lady

gently decliningto

gorgeous

side of the

villas,now

House

nobilityand

pretty little edifices,now

Tuscan

SOUTH.

that

hills

green

smilingvillas

the

DUE

after the illustrious and

founder, and

belongs.
the

JOURNEY

the

in the house
bones
was

laid
not

decree

inscrutable

the

in St. Charles

there

in

eldest

peace
son.

of

Street

with
But

Fate,

the

man

yonder might
those

for Fate

of

his

who

was

have

had

forefathers.

they might

have

HOTEL

THE

made

priestof him,

as

monk

He

Or

were.

time,

being troublous

bandit.

of

band

brigands.

thingsconsidered,if
skirmish

some

life as
here

in

the

among

and

crowns

and

At

the

minutes'

he

should

have

road

the

to

been

Isles

appointed to

him

plunder

superhuman

and
sceptres,

extremityof

will

set the

the

to

world

Cours

help
in

is

In

the

grotto in which, accordingto the

to

spend long

State, and,

; that

grotto and

as

enacted
did not

in

Valery

when

"bien

the

national,"
was

the

Casone,

Casone

is the

legend, Napoleon,

has

were

then

Order
the

was

part of

belong to

juvenileZimmermann

his papa.

There

is

to

villa

suppressed

was

property of

purchased by
more

The

failed

not

than

and, accordingto Yalery, he could not

the

few

solitary
musing.

garden became

Bonaparte family. Napoleon

of age,

within

the Revolution, the Casone

the Jesuits

in Corsica the

hours

traveller

and

garden called

magnificentolive-trees.

child,used

to

his

blaze.

Grandval,

of the Germania,

walk

belongingto

which

the

his

pointout that, before

have

tranquilsepulture

but

French
always-sceptical

years

quiet provincial

advocate, found
on

chief of

nothing

planted with
famous

after

shrubs

and

gendarmerie in

the

by

and

"

makis

"

better, perhaps,all

been

or,

that"

suppose

risen to be

have

it, in

take

lean, hungry, rapacious,with

over,

sword

that

to the

shot

been

or

flowers

taken

have

makis,"

"

or
monk,
priest,

cross

had

the

Sanguinaires,than

as

It would

he

Or

would

he

Assuredly

Fesch

earnest
terribly

friars.

he had

"

made,

have

would

of Dominican

convent

the times
turned

Luciano, his uncle

his uncle

vigorousbishop of Ajaccio,or

very

of

abbot

143

SOOX.

TOO

in

the
the

twenty
as

child

grotto

nothing,however,
K

144

JOURNEY

to prove

that

Jesuits'

the

garden

that, for

been
them

the

of

Brienne, the

it

it

as

which

graniterocks inclininginwards,

two

touch, and

crowned

Druidical

by

cromlech-lookingin

or

him

their

its

France.

to

summits

by

nearly

of stone, almost

block

enormous

an

from

up

Casone, formed

the

until

have

respectable

the

with

took

he

grotto of

is the

there

may,

and

the

to

may

picked

have

of Latin

modicum

small

very

Napoleon

may

bility
possi-

of

sent

was

the

to

access

domain

he

young

Jesuits, and

not

the

within

even

time, just before

short

of mathematics

amount
Be

it is

of the

pupil

had

youthful Bonapartes

; and

militaryschool

SOUTH.

DUE

antique

of

savagery

aspect.
I
of

am

to

sorry

hacked

pilgrimshave

practice; and,

if the

the

on

is,

their

carved

or

doubt,

no

grotto thousands

of the

walls

hewed

or

This

forgottennames.

in

that

say

highly reprehensible

MetropolitanBoard

of Works

would
Ajaccio,these objectionable
graffiti

Chamber

matter,

least

at

or

this propensity to
reality,

placesis

famous
trick

to all

common

the

Pyramids
John

of

Smith,

Joseph
visited
scratched

humanity.
in

of the

bed-chamber

Egypt,
from

Prudhomme.
the
her

"

they

Byron
When
or

with

In

Queen

Star

scrawl

on

the

the

name

your

world.

school-room

It
at

Palace

Walter

from

Isabel

Segunda

in

vault

pair of

scissors

Victor

on

the
the

the
cony
balthe

on

Scott

Hugo
of

Escorial
marble

minster
"West-

the

Venice,

at

Royal

on

is

in

Hougoumont,

at

Brown,

sway

In

it ""from

all do
to

be made

Stratford-on-Avon,

Doge's

held

police-courtone.

thingin

chapel
at

the

Pantheon
name

the

house

loggia of

and

scratch
natural

most

Harrow,

or

of

the

local

long-since-

to

to

Spain
she

ledge

THE

of

of the

one

although I

I should

When

myself in

act would

of

charioteer

as

the

Almost

everything seems

been

at

for

all

at

Ajaccio.

"

eleven

metamorphosis

which

imagination,I

In

harmoniously

with

resonant

and

the

accomplishedfemale

the

laughter of

the

It is in Corsican

Charles
old
young
and

Street,and

harpsichordon
ones

"

25th

has

to

Paolina, and

the

the

in the

by
Hotel

urchins.

merriment
are

"

drawing-room
of Schubert

nimble

become

Madame

Giuseppe,and
Carolina.

but

Letizia

Luciano, and

Young

to

my

tones.

prattling.

drawing-room piano has

which

British

shriller

to

of

I hear

romping

House

Germania,

hands

Soon.

the

the

gone.

But, always

turns

Too

and

Too

corridor

the

over

Hotel

come

the

lot since

the

the

about

move

pondering

complicatedconcertos

patois that they

longer is this

to

to

have

must

my

undergone by

American

children's

been

room

guests of

children

children, untamable

imagining,the

have

Mendelssohn, executed

Chopin

begin

you

enough

Soon.

Too

Hotel

pianofortein

the

hear

Marseilles, I

from
the

well

my

will be

and

No

of

services

the

Earthly Paradise

much-proclaimed

the

when

Soon

sit in

"

be natural.

here, and

not

am

that

"

window-

the

myself of

man

ugly days

very

Bastia

from

came

"

on

name

avail

grow

Morris's

When

guarantee

of discretion

idiotic,but it would

to

ring

Ship Hotel, Greenwich,

of the

to

diamond

I will not

years

picturesquegarden

William

Mr.

than

strong young

in

that

bauble

enough

wander

think

the

room

be

well

not

am

never

more

owned

myself scratchingmy

find

not

The

pane.

to

come

am

I left to

were

such

I possess

145

SOON.

TOO

empty shelves.

did

myself, but

HOTEL

is

in

little

playing to

Luigi

Napoleone

"

to

is not

St.

her

Alisa,
there.

146

He

is

in

away

window

and

Over

purple,

of

of

clouds.

are

all

golden

right

billows,

him

bees,
the

and

in

mantle

David's

hovers

the

lions

and

the

orb

his

left

them,

is

in

flying
picture,

his

on

Napoleone

loose

crossing

in

the

the

there

he

il

wintry
snow-clad

they
stands

powdered

robes,

reaching

now

panorama

Now

brow,

and

imagining

my

Imperial

laurel

golden

to

at

crimson

dragonish

Figure.
the

hour

ever-shifting

are

the

to

turn

the

of

hues

hut

one

in

by

that

some

Dame,

dominating
his

in

into

Notre

hand,

war-horse,

see

bears

themselves

in

hathed

are

Then

mountains

the

at

gold,

There

like

enthroned

his

and

SOUTH.

Casone.

the

heights,

azure

resolve

with

wistfully

the

vapours

of

grotto

look

time.

the

the

DUE

JOURNEY

the

in

sceptre
the

to

Grande,
blast,

Alps.

cloud-

on

as

his

you

XI.

THE

HOUSE

IN

CHAKLES

ST.

AJACCIO.

STREET,

October

AJACCIO,

THERE
the

is

Florentine

the
stands

by

least
in

call

the

name

"

Paris,

into

to

with

the

dusty

de

"

Fontainebleau

mischief,

looked

and

pipe- smoking
photographs
Louise

of

Boulevard

this

peasants
Monsieur

Michel,

leon
Napo-

stands

which

ware,
DelaMenier

print

and

I
from

meat

of

the

of

the

woe-begone

children

getting

beer

productions,

Charles

At

Palais

chocolat

handing

the

Nicolas.

solitary vestige

Teutonic

Mr.

Saint

du

and

Gambetia,
and

might

Wilmington,

crestfallen

fat

They

preserved

tavern-wenches

fatter

old

of

St.

lithographic
but

effigy

where

England

sadly

oleographs

was,

from

tomatoes

from

or

Place

the

on

had

even

Eoman-clad

expanse

the

coarsely-executed

legend

is,

of

you

not

original.

clothing,

macintoshes

German

Citoyenne

there

dubbed

preserved

Bonapartist
among

that

thing- shop

and

Adieux

is

have

the

illustrious

its

but

which

in

remind

to

statue,

of

exception

the

municipality

ready-made

U.S.A.,
from

of

every

among

Australia

the

area

monument

of

found,

the

calendar

the

kind

and

with

Bastia,

at

marble

remembered

have

Napoleonic
a

Great

to

grace

indeed

Bartolini's

the

Napoleon

at

little

very

26.

Citizen
Stewart

flagons
together

Eochefort,
Parnell,

148

"

M.P.,
of

Leader

art

its

at

JOUENEY

Irlandais," make

present

At

scarcelywalk

paces

without

of

which

Carlo

family

The
trical

form,

base

and

and

Dublin

Ajaccio

of

town

the

on

sides

two

of which
sixteenth
sent

The
in

first
a

is

the

Marche,

where

Bastia

stands

size and
administrative
book
hovels

and

of

land

at

tongue

of the

Hotel

to

pans,

number

thronged

from

soldiers.

The

to trouble
in knots

occult

the

and

morning

the
at

the

but

to

night

Corsicans

and
with

liquor-shops much.

congiurazioni

in their

siderable
con-

well-stocked
the

are

say

merest
rags

and

nothing

of

dram-shops, usually
sailors

and

They prefer

weaving

muttered

du

more

French

temperate, and

are

the street-corners,

two

clothes, old

ship chandlery, to
buvettes

Place

or

or

shops,

excepted,

their

as

edifice of

one

are

sale of secondhand

of low

native

Mercato,

Ville, an

There

stationery warehouses

devoted

buccaneers

del
de

of course,

"

such

the

of

Genoese.

landing

on

tremity
ex-

expedition

the

against

reach

Piazza

French

rounds
sur-

the

middle

in the

the

Naples

which

not

are

buildings here;

inordinate

what

you

of

town

comeliness.

bones, pots and

about

the

the

forming

part of the

Sampiero

is the

"

of

amphithea-

those

vies with

fort,erected

Corsican

boat, but the boatmen

at

seem

on

public place which

brethren

an

That

old

an

which

in

of hills

steep range

century by the commander

help

to

bay

is built

harbour

beautifullybuilt

loveliness.

for

the

of

of

Advocate

derful
won-

progenitor.

is most

flanks

shall

you

of the

reminded

Buonaparte,

and

in France

contrary,

being

immediate

the

was

the

on

works

the

stapleof

shop-windows

Ajaccio,

ten

the

up

in the

view

on

dependencies.

Eoyal Court,

SOUTH.

DUE

do
to

goodness
patois.

not

hang

knows

150

garden
brief

the

of

maison

of

change

His

has

quarters, and
of

her

and

gowns

travelling carriages
Rueil

is

stamp

and

snort.

Senate

wait

for

They
from
to

him

the

Potsdam

repudiate

He

the

wife

shall

and

Great

raft

him

the

Beresina's

icy

Montmirail,

to

behold

bosom.

Malmaison

is

Isabey's, and

is Monsieur

Laboureur's

of

Ajaccio

water

have

of which

base
"

with

Home
the

wisely
are

He

is

four

brave

going

to

Elba,

to

dust
Jena

; to-

the

hundred*

hold

to

in his

in

won

run

to die

away
on

the

Leipzic,

to

Waterloo,

;
at

marry

Moskova

"

The

vault

the

men

away

horses

Niemen

to

blaze

Kremlin

of

the

hear

the

see

of

the
and

the

on

1811, and

to

Fontainebleau,

to

Adieu,

That

in

night

leaving thousands

his army,

wood.

of

baby King

bloody fight,and
from

that

lick

in

; to

The

Tuileries,

fondly, and

so

her

for.

the

to

Frederick
the

of

the

Austerlitz

guns

arms

hear

of

to win

moval
re-

is waited

and

on

safe

postmaster

almost

you

fat,foolish,blue-eyed daughter
fired

the

packing

The

gate.

going

loved

astir to

are

Adieu, Malmaison

Kaiser's
one

the

Consul

on

Adieu, Mal-

with

and

Imperator,

peace

who

busied

antechambers

the

the

know.

his household

is

First

is

of

dictate

; to

his

the

hail him

sword

in

birds

relays ;

in

off his boots.

clutch

tranquillity which,

packed,

at

are

The

to

eager

are

few

bonnets.

the

with

busy

the

or

singing

has

enjoyed

Josephine

beloved

innumerable

is

he

where

known

baggage

SOUTH.

and

repose

life, he
!

DUE

country-house

snatches

trouhlous

JOURNEY

to

to

Long-

that,

in

First
surrounded
lions

of

most

Consul.
the
Corsican

sympathetic degree,
The

municipality

monument

"

at

the

granite, spouting

delightfullypretty giardinetto,

parterre

of

HOUSE

THE

sen*ied
the

wisdom,

the

and
well

as

and

garden

of

these

the

done

to

turning

the

statue.

handful

over

coins

bearing

the

been

jagged

right

barbarous

the

leisure

of

some

and

did

blackguard
the

on

which
of

is not

historic

offered

to

but

pack

good.

When

deemed

to

Now

of young
the
be

wolves
The

Place

do

second
du

apparently

at

what

Rue

and

silver, have

Napoleon.

neck

of

the

Ajaccio

at

see

of the

the

be

to

who, gaunt and

wolves.

throw

or

of

knot

the

tion
inscrip-

in the

interests
I

they

with

Old

legged
bare-

his

panting,looked

simile

will not

reached

what

threw

ciottolini

speak

is situated

hold

they

at

me.

stones.

Place

The

The

blackguards had

of

Place

fierce and

Stay.

distance

of

sion;
posses-

perverted discipleof

swiftly,howling,

away

in his

of

protected forthwith.

so

this

ear,

product

the

Napoleonic monuments,

railing,but which,

"

at

away

this

profile

one

on

has

line

deep

clasp-knife

that

noticed

III.

Napoleon

another

monument

the

again, lately,when

over

boys calmly jobbing

safe

not

injury might

mischievous

the

Corsican

Diamant

following from
the

is

of

ran

companions,
like

Napoleonic legend

actually

he

tects
proin

decency, ought

Mortality ;

of this

knowing,

patriotwith

conduct, by

that

say

no

Over

protected by

planning

indignitybeing probably

pedestalof

orange,

be

across

Corsican

the

railing which

would

there

effigyof

stupid and

the

strong iron

otherwise

hopeless discount,

be

light but

when

days,

dictated

taste, has

the

which

conspicuous.

are

151

AJACCIO.

STREET,

plants, among

hamboo

as

it, because

such

and

tropicalflowers

lemon,

CHAKLES

ST.

IN

du

which

which

Bonaparte,
Marche

Place

du

the

rue

Diamant

you

of that
is the

on

reach
name

the

by
and

largestand

152

handsomest

in

is

centre

four

The

the

word

of

from

who, I

to

venture

in bronze

certain

dignityand

four

in

who

Bonaparte,

struck

in

Roman

me

them

only provided

ludicrously
followed

with

suggestive

the

funeral

car

L'un

the

of M.

de

portait son

Mironton,
L'un
Et
L'un

1'autre

Et

The

Three
and

sceptres ;
umbrella.

Kings"

Westphalia
but

poor

They

are

on

pawns

If the
would

the

at

board,
chess-

standing,
notwith-

sculptor

have

been
"

who

sabre,

beau

mirontaine

sabre,

bouclier

portait sa cuirasse,

Mironton,
L'un

son

out
with-

rigiditystand

Malbrouck

beau

of

Brothers

Quatre-z-officiers

mironton,

portait son

the

big proportions

"

venturer
ad-

an

as

is not

But

periwigs they

of

most

decoration,

art

singularlyinsignificantpersonages.
had

Due,

equestrian statue

many

their

being,

as

"

composed

costume,

so

of

Prince

lamentably

uneasy

pedestal,like

his

le

and

little grace.

some

postures of

the

of

corners

and

and

"

The

sculpture.

Great

yes,

"

Viollet

failed

In

Lucien,

architecture

on

think, has

Emperor,

and

M.

of

gulf.

land
Louis, King of Hol-

the

of

the

composed

designs

in monumental

Spain

was

accomplished authority

the

of

Westphalia

the

view

nean,
Mediterra-

the

by

Napoleon

of

monument

"

is washed

magnificent

King

SOUTH.

base

Its

memorial

the

Jerome,

Canino.

but

DUE

brothers, Joseph, King

;

is

Ajaccio.

it commands

and
the

JOURNEY

mirontaine

mironton,

portait

sa

1'autre

ne

not

of

portait rien.

Brentford, but

respectively
"

Lucien
accoutred

cuirasse,

has
in

hugging

are

not

of

got

togas

so

and

Spain,

land,
Hol-

their

regal

much

as

an

sandals, after

THE

the

HOUSE

the

on

feel that

de

would

group,

of

table.

and

which

might
be

might

fit

much

luscious

occasion

to the
a

triumphal

matter

much

It

my

was

Emirs
Cross

"

borders
Sheiks

the

in

by

that

are

Legion

in

the

Ajaccio spying
knife

as

he

Imperial

statue.

progress
at

in

of

then

the

ruler

has

not

It

1865.

Corsican

inscription on

making

does

not

faites."

sont

through Algeria,
the

great Bedouin
to have

camp
their

that

much

The
and

boy
the

the
nouses
bur-

snowy

seem

been

pleasure
dis-

administered

cousin.

to

high

gave

who

Imperial

the

on

Napoleon made,

was

saw

formance
per-

1865, by

omens

which

pinned

Imperial

May,

Prince

Chislehurst;

blackguard

into

It would

Mauritania

vault

the

jobs

Honour

hands.

Caesarian

the

into
of

and

make

pretentious

The

his

to

triumphant

Kabylia

come

triumphal

cold

the

of

by Imperial
dominion

15th

and

pineapple

Adieu, paniers ! vendanges

lot to follow

and
of

This

Algeria, and

through

progress

the

handsome

Napoleon III.,who

Emperor

surtout

would

while

speech

mental
monu-

almonds

Lucien

Buonaparte.

monument,

now.

to the

even

the

epistolary scolding

terrible

by

curiouslyinauspicious.

were

unlike

The

grapes.
on

this

seen

is not

Louis, and

of

Fran"ais,

platterof preserved ginger,

surmounted

Jerome

unveiling the

on

have

ensemble

to

bunches

Napoleon

Theatre

legend by heart, you

sponge-cakes;

the
be

the

macaroons.

inaugurated

was

Prince

not

carry

of

supporter

two

rather

hold

assigned

centrepiece might
and

your

the

Joseph might

Jerome

raisins

know

whole, if you

you

of

153

AJACCIO.

STREET,

wardrobe

of the

antique fashion

and,

CHAELES

ST.

IN

French

strengthened
Imperial
here
with

hands
I

am

his

at

clasp-

pedestal of

the

154

This

big

somehow,

little too

real

Humbug,

and

the

Napoleon,
noble
and

At

is the

the

Hotel

and

so

extensive

It

is surrounded

Cafe

Eoi

by
with

little

where,

of

October

vaudevilles

of the

given.
of

had

and

the

the

Marche

villa

occupants

Prefecture

winter
end

operas.
of

is

season

of March
and

the

Beyond
is

palace,

"

aspect.

Palais

theatre

the

dentally
inciyear

Theatre

St.

is, from

comic

in

Kew
removed.

since

the

the

tecture,
archi-

is its

the
and

operas

Eoyal pattern

is varied

programme

which

"

is

is another

already

that

"

the

of which

style of

I have

as

elms

opposite

imposing

which,

and

and

of the hot-houses

stereotypedBouffes

rear

du

Cours

the

so

fourteen

Occasionally the

Sebastiani, in the

with

the

in

glass roofs

until the

Italian

length

splendidly-planted garden

above
in

its

exaggeration, be called

any

the

has

broad

There

Cours

Ajaccio, a

ground floor

on

is

It

the

into

Jerome.

built

its dimensions

remarked,

are

in

Eue

the

on

official residence

the

Gabriel,

du

although

without

are

miniature, but

1870.

France,

Four

Servility,
Corruption,

Diamant

of the

the

to

Usurpation.

du

well-appointed cafe

might,

is

angle

de

Prefecture, which,

middle

Place

of

"

while

likeness

thoroughfare,planted throughout

spacious

This

the

Noir"

candidates

Meanness,

ment"
Monu-

Family

"Cabinet

uncomfortable

are

from

reallyhandsome

the

official
an

names

the

principalthoroughfare

acacias.

Cours

bear

and

"

The

Second

The

mouth.

you.

leaves,

Diamant

du

your

supporting Impudent

debouch

relief to

to

Bourse

Buonaparte

Place

in

taste

and

SOUTH.

the

on

close

the

of

whose

Shams

table

communiques

Brothers

DUE

unpleasant

smells
official

de

surtout

an

is

Empire

JOURNEY

by the
is the

formance
per-

Hotel

beauteously picturesque

IN

HOUSE

THE

park, stretchingfar
Cours

of the

the

past and

of

the

need

mind's

Grandval,

as

statues

more

on

his

of

the

of

his

nbout

long

vine

the

Boulevard
Rue

shirt
the

in which

scrap

he

having

and

his

ballad

in

that

Madame

the

had

have

been

hose

and

afterwards

sometimes
shoes
to

barefooted

for

climb

little

broad

frill

Ajaccio

footed.
bare-

traditionally

school

companions,
accused

paid

court

to

one

displayed with

regard

that

earlier

inference

at

an

dispensed with stockingsaltogether.

very

family,

numerous

of

matter

all the
the

he

grey

scampered

been

condition

the

favours

the

calzetta," and

mezza

inattention

he had

Letizia

ungartered

nonage

his

him

tendrils

young

of

has

"

as

stockings rather

"stageof his

by

du

I meet

ever

streets

there

sung

the

he

whether

that

Cours

great wistful

fallingover

unpaved

aware

is ridiculed

Giacominetta, and
to

then

of

and

him,

see

Boulevard

Now

with

days
I

the

on

the

curling like

wonder

quite

am

locks

now.

Fesch.

old

shadows.

him

on

the

rances
protube-

the

to

I meet

Cardinal

temples,

collar.

dusty

preserved

his

was

to

brazen

of him

Lantivy,

du

is

who

back

me

the

among

Ajaccio.

over

dark-brown

about

of

all

Diamant

du

back

me

child, sallow, delicate,and

mere

oyes,

take

monuments

nor

eye,

in the

Jerome,

take

impertinent

live

me

extremity

Abbatucci,

names

They

make

and

the

Huninguen.

! these

shore.

sea-

of

At

Place

the

Charles

forget the

to

me

legend,

in my

defence

the

side.

from

General

! Abbatucci

the

no

Roi

at

help

on

mountain

youthful

killed in 1796,
Sebastiani

the

farthest

Napoleon

of

statue

up

CHARLES

155

AJACCIO.

STREET,

ST.

"

steps of thrones.

Napoleon

my

it may

to provide
difficulty

some

little feet

and

the

feet
But

thoughts

which

from

wandered

the

were

sibly
posback-

156

ward

in

his

and,

It

the

was

and

sprawling

tapestry
there

he

where
Like

his

for

I had

still

postponing

of Italian

could

masonry,

other

side

shrubs,

of

of that
The

do.

instead

of

French

inhabited

which

trenches

desire,

the

of

round

sugary
certain

the

I know

Carlo

the

Letizia.
make

the

It
air

is

is
many

to

one

heavy

adopt

the

and

his

vicolo.

It

part of Hanway

great square

block

storeys high,

tiny quadrangular
is

of the

nomenclature,

than

more

come

one

Buonaparte

narrowest

how

vicolo, is

Charles

street

house, which
not

and

had

realityI

municipality were

by

than

in

St.

Rue
the

broader

Place

portion

opening

loitered

which

If

the

his

of

his

of

positivelyfor to-morrow,

town.

erst

not

plain

the

house

corner

storming

lingered and

doing

to

Opposite

called

the

see

the

on

last, but

scarcely be qualifiedas

certainly

Street.

babe.

Street, Ajaccio, still repeating to myself

the

the

thoroughfare

is

must

morsel

final

for to-morrow,

solelyto Ajaccio

family

Iliad,

new-born

it,and, although trembling with

days

be

in

the

deferringthe

it should

system

naked

put aside

still

that

narrowest

of

antique

the

of

the

Virgin,

of

piece

toothsome

until

keeps

St. Charles

in

has

most

around

spoon

citadel,so

who

and

and

deferring and

house

child

sweetest

pudding,

with

vision

longer, I thought.

greedy

plate the

the

me

no

of the

Assumption
on

of

August

born.

was

of the

in

was

dimly-pictured story

some

before

delay

Feast

It

feebly wailing

with

woven

arose

I would

SOUTH.

DUE

strange life history.

1769.

year

of

JOUKNEY

mass

of

with

their

on

of
the

expanse,

flowers

and

delicious

fragrance.
On

slab of grey

marble

over

tne

central

door

of the

house

158

But

if

it must

the

DUE

been

have

business

the

pettifoggingwas

the

his

to

social

remark

ball-room

landed

that

in

attached

as

the

1'Origine de

the

public library of Bastia,

authoritythat

documentary
made

family

the

1771

Superior

Luciano

and

declared

their

good

father

claim

nobilityproved extending
The

old

flowers
midst
the

and

head

room

and

"

as

un

old

lady

the

the white

.She

could

"

Very

Americans.
not

few.

remember

Any

having

been

was

born

I asked.

one

French

Spanish
?

"

The

"

nobles

the

"

in

of

the

In

the

traverse,

head

what

by

stone

grey

colour

and

board
foot-

known

was

Did

simply.

Well, all the

Italians.

Many

be

there," the charming

floss silk hair said

house

claim, and

the

bed
He

this

doubt, with

of

"

petition of

no

beading

in

the

bed

and
the

of

gay,

that

darkened

painted

by

Buonaparte

outside.
a

of

years."

window
of

Verite

indisputable

to

half

room

to

curator

the

hundred

now

La

nobles, and

Napoleon

the

gone

curves

strangers visit the

all the

was

Touching

"

from

confirmed

two

over

reality,in

it is sufficient

island, on

of

had

Buonaparte

1759

as

framework

Pompadour."

with

and

the

in times

evidence

lit

to rank

boards, all

foot

gilding,for
gave

year

into

me

was

but

monochrome,
and

the

plants shrouding

the

of

took

lady

proved

brother

and

In

Caraffa, the

has

Buonaparte,

which

entitled

tract

of the

Council

Carlo

the

in

Ajaccio of

vine-grower.

M.

Bonaparte,"

nos

the

to it.

Ajaccio community,

sur

Buonaparte,

in

lawyer, Carlo

recentlypublished

Carlo

large mansion,

proprietor and

positionin

of

profitablebusiness

very

profession

considerable

his

of

luxury

addition

SOUTH.

time, seeing that he accupied

even

JOURNEY

All

visitor.
old

the

Any
lady

many

English
Kussians.

Germans
shook

her

THE

"

head.

IN

HOUSE

Corsica

in

is

CHAKLES

ST.

STREET,

France, and

the

in

AJACCIO.

159

Eepublic,"

she

remarked.
I

nothing

saw

else in

the

chimney-piece a

In

another

the

wreck

gilding

of
and

Madame

day

which

moulder

Chapelle
Charles
the

crimson

Letizia

on

lady

sedan

was

the Mother

chair, once

carried
was

peacefullyhard

Fesch.

There

of Madame
of

bust

also

Prince
Letizia

born

was

of the

Prince

harpsichord,and
resplendent with

plush lining.

Napoleon

Buonaparte,

tomb

little old

he

where

room

little marble

is

room

the

In

to and

from

born.

The

by,

in

ashes

of Canino.

styles her

The
"

in

another

carving and

mass

chair

Mater

the

on

of the

noble

mausoleum

Cardinal

on

Imperial.

sedan

high

the

sleep the

this

save

of the

himself

and

inscriptionon
Regum

Kings.

"
"

XII.

CITY.

WINTER

WHEN

left

me

something

of

Murray's

else

else

Marseilles,

miles.

smashed

en

time

and

stock

as

the

positively

we

reached

be;

would

sate

Paris,

Marseilles

gested
sug-

the

of

properly

the
"

Railway
and

disrepair

cold

my

windows

Mediterranean
of

state

not

was

Paris

in

"

by

developed

had

to

six

some

close

not

and

Lyons,

disgraceful

of

and

the

but

surely

it

with

down

friends

pessimist

This

notes.

went

accident,

with

took

assortment

journey

no

some

which

of

uncomfortable

should
in

cold.

was

goodly

circular

some

slight

There

compartment

and

route,

that

in

was

luggage,

my

South,

due

journey

besides

long

hundred

is

this

on

handbooks,

something

rolling

Paris

27.

October

AJACCIO,

the
into

catarrh.

During
Cannebiere
That
the
said

but

norte

in

at

of

the

Gulf
of

it

Marseilles

this

of

tropically

was

third

mistral.

favour

as

it

the

on

abominable

suddenly
hot

days

two

the

day
It

is

fora
The

comes.

again,

On

and,

the
like

fourth
the

of

only

blast

throat-cutting

the

City

blew

great

in

mistral

the

Mexico.

hot

is

day
mariners

that

thing
that

it

and

can

departs

be

as

tropically

was

"

the

guns.

Adriatic

the

it

of

from

Bristol

went

Mr.

in

City,"

That

Corsica, touching
The

trip was

mentioned,

remember

You

down

come

and

Lodore

at

I think

; but

that

landed

I have

it

began

learned

of the

edition

said

rain.

to

waters

by heart,

late Laureate's

about

something

already

the

"

lines

those

the

cascade

dashing, splashing, crashing,

gushing,

roaring, pouring, rushing,

smashing,

as

never

in

descending

but,

describing how

he

and

Bastia, in

for

passage

lines

accessible

any

one

after I had

Lodore."

far from

am

poems

hours

wessel

way.

beautifullyfine

Southey's

at

the

by

took

"I

took

say,

Nice

at

few

is to

161

CITY.

Thackeray's ballad,

sea."

to

WINTER

teeming,

ling
screaming, streaming, gleaming, tumbling, rumbling, jumbAt

manner.

And

at Bastia.

all events, that

it rained

three

whole

great joy of the inhabitants.

months.
the

cisterns

it rained

the

and

days

rain

mountain

rain

had

nights, to

fallen

torrents

nearly empty.

were

down

came

for

the

three

dry, and

were

! how

Cataclysm

and

armed
"tenu

So

soon

as

to

an

it

good,

by

may

pharmacien

and

described

medaiUe,

and

"

at

It

he

was

himself
all the

the

English

on

rest

the

at

by

me

shops

given

was

of times.

scores

Bastia,

were

Hotel

the

Frenchman,

of

enseiyne

it

"

sent

as

word

sent

which

has

course

mind,

nearly twenty

and

the

de

throat.

open,

me

surgeon,
In

his

to

like

me

upon

prescription,without

up.

celebrated

say

the

have

to

down

came

gripped

and

morning,

was

night

Staffe," and

par

travel, made
ago

the

in

apothecary

years

asthma

spasmodic

men

France

never

No

of the

of Bastia

Bronchitis
two

beds

The

is how

not
a

to

of
a

done
an

me

hour

Corsican,

laurtfat,and
say

that

he

162

could

'nothing of

make
Those

him.

me

one

made

Of

prescription.

prescription.

inquiries for

Corsican.

"

the

This
he

course

illegible. I
with
in

scrupulous

Corsican

medico

grammes

of syrup

brown

to

half

tenu

par

contrived
"

France

bleed

me

I have

; but

and

of

The

thirty

rough-and-

some

mustard
of

fumes

lighted

of which

means

the

Hotel

experience
An

forth.

so

he

great deal

of

to

obligingly

woes,

my

horror

the

of

failed

of

order:

inmates

experiment,
confided

me

woman"

the

in

vile stuff which

saltpetre,by

Staffe," but

whom

to

suffocate

the

relief from

barber,

with

up

Richmond,

composed

I tried

inhalation

tea, the

saturated

paper

"old

in

made

Then

made

Petersburg.

some

which

it

Paris, in Frankfort,

St.

in

it

his contention,

had

Geneva,

and

before.
the

in

"potion"

of belladonna

been

plasters,linseed

in

in which

Latin

have

formula

Eome,

me

palliatives of

ready

of the

nothing

according to

was,

Orleans, and
gave

I had

than

worse

of

in

the

that

sirop pectoral," and

"

called

exactitude

New

in

Baltimore,

to

They brought

make

could

understood

remark

may

Venice,

in

Berlin,

Chinese

was

doctor.

medico

framed, hut the handwriting

was

It

his literal words.

were

despair,I

In

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

de
sonal
per-

Italian

offered

and

phlebotomy,

any

to

declined

friendlyproposal.

his

At
every
to

length,
half-hour

open,
seven

if

"

the

idea

Frog,

and

realise

Jumping

dreadful

the

and
shot

forced
"

wish

you
that
that

you

I arrived

feeling of congestion increasing

to
at

you

to know
are

somebody
swallow
the

what

conclusion

feelingis, try

Twain's

Mark
has

that

"

prized

Celebrated

"

your

soup-ladlefulof
that

the

sooner

mouth
number
I got

of Bastia

out

five in

the

the

WIXTEK

Barbarous

the

evening, and

the

fortunately,I

as

travellingbag

my
had

laid

in

stock

English chemist,
but

my

supply

had

in the

I fed
miserable
from

end

one

mentir
It
and

vient

qui
in

was

in

for

He
about

sudden

change
and

once

that
t

dotes.
anti-

nineteen

hoursr
roads

I will not

should

of

first

; but

the

I had

think
A

"

that
beau

been

He
a

me

"

as

and

weeks

three

eight

should

child, and

you

so

nine

cence,
convales-

humane
to

as

cian
physifall,said

bronchitis

can,

about

and

days

stoutly refused

as

and
that

longer ;

possibly die.

all these

me

or

Marseilles, and

probably bring

quickly as

tended

to

enough

still

relapse I

for

fortunate

so

would

climate

if I had

been

Ajaccio,

I 'arrived at

steamer

skilful

I had

last

to

get well."
I had

that

I remain

the

that

me

me

that

though

became

other.

lest you

box

mountain

the

to

thought

myself approaching

found

Italy,"he concluded,
will

leaving Paris

travelling adage,

pitiabledid

hands

told

asthma

the

of

taking
at

whose

No."

as

When

was

into

as

of Corsica

pitiablecondition

most

returning home

You

island

Roberta's, the

they

the

jolting along

of

beneficent

Lozenges.

and

until

coupe

recesses

at

That

poisons

on

was

de loin."

condition

to

fed

lozenges I swallowed,

days longer.

"

exhausted.

taking advantage

was

boxes

particular box,

was

and

of the

many

remotest

Keatings nearlythroughout

on

bumping

say how
I

say,

in the

de la Paix, before

this

It

just starting for

Keating's Cough

of

Rue

Keatings

Mithridates, they

the

in

half-a-dozen

of

be.

place vacant

discovered

overlooked
of

was

tin box

it would

better

diligence was

Ajaccio. Fortunately,there
and,

163

CITY.

lapse,
re-

"

Go

get well.

tenderly
to

accept

164

kind

any

of fee

JOURNEY

(I hope

learned

SOUTH.

that

honorarium,

or

friendly connivance
to

DUE

the

of

landlord

unworthy)

not

Professor

the

of

hotel,
order

subterfuge,in

of

the

compelled, with

was

the

let

to

that

know

Zurich,

resort

to

not

was

for the

ungrateful

which

kindness

had

he

shown

to

entire

an

stranger.
You
the

not, if you

are

Invalids, I grant,
"

selfish.

The

the

at

sick man's

foot

of

troubles

and

practicalpurpose,
the

in

first

been

has

would

abroad,

to

universally accepted

for

ago,

the

obverse

and

the

English

and

distances

Postal

Just

be

abolition

of

our

of

Station,

own

in

some

neatly printed
and

and

their

moneys

comprehensive

an

there

held

was

first

absurd

system

London

in
a

leading

generally

some

step in

useful

copoeia
Pharma-

writing
of

national
inter-

highly

International

adoption
A

necessityof

weights, measures,

I remember

the

medical

the

expression

were

foreign
;

have

I left home

formula.

of

variety of other

Congress, and

medical

the

of

money

to

strongly advocating

recognised
would

and

of

Euston

which

of

table

never

before

Pharmaceutical

article

we

deliberate

shilling,a paper-knife,on

system

English

Guide,

concerning
a

vital

the

mode

at

one

blades
decimal

in

Are

information.

bought
of

exhaustive

respectivevalue

the

sum

reverse

an

the

with

attention

framing

months

extent

de Balzac,

said

call the

and

writing prescriptions.

Honore

penned

at

some

certain

I have

profession both

home

as

devoid, I hope, of utility.

not

place, I

to

wrote

What

paragraphs

narian.
egotisticalvaletudi-

an

horizon,"

Corsica

these

always

are

bed."

his

my

In

of

gossiping experiences

mere

"is

consider

please,to

the
of

direction

hierogly-

166

JOUKNEY

Constantinople.

at

good enough

was

behests

of

bottle
the

of

twice

twice

to

the

nice

he

sent

But

day.

every

the

given by

time

label

and

Grande

with

was

very

the

scription
pre-

implicitlyfollowed

had

he

of the

had

remembered

lent

had

the
take

to

stuff, which

the

Latin
of

bidden

was

suppose

sage

have

should

the

Pera

the

Italian

on

de

Eue

Fortunately, I

take

to

were

and
me

hour.

every

Grande

choice

into

sufferingfriend,

directions

which

directions

powerful,

the

of

sage

translate

to

physic

the

The

SOUTH.

English M.R.C.S.,

my

medicine

that

DUE

de Pera

Eue

suffering friend's

my

widow.
Then

there

scarcely less

the

comes

The

writing prescriptionslegibly.
pharmacien
medico
and

the

be

hand.

and

of

illisible

setta

inscription,all belong

lizard

period

wounds

and

whether

the
one,
an

full

Pharaoh

of

art

the

mummy

days

when

middle

station

doctors

some

viations,
abbre-

between

Ro-

stuffed
cured

know

"

not

when

correctly
"

of

the

and

the

than

"

kind

neat

very

"Miriam

Browne
as

upon

and

balsam

for

Thomas

Corsican

illegible"fist,"

the

"hocus-pocus,"

weird

ambiguous

Sir

looked

was

to

to

an

the

to

sent

in

mysterious

sold

was

quoting

am

healing

An

scrawls.

medicine,

indited

"

prescriptions of

hieroglyphics more

of

"

of

matter

the

although

"

the

But

vilest

very

"

which

one

really

was

it to

declared

flowing

are

Bastia

at

important

thaumaturgic

leech

occupied

alchemist

and

wizard.
a

blessed

In

any

thing

case,

if every

through
Writer.

the

as

things
medical

go

at

present,
"

man

intermediary

of

it would

composed
a

"

his

Remington

be

scriptions
pre-

Type

Yet
two

have

Great

Invalides, in 1840;
at

Longwood,

to

the

one

have

only hope

to

"

been

me

to

in

the

house

the

see

should

which

in

buried

him

saw

satisfied.

be

Legend

could

and

I should

end, the
which

"

born.

was

bed

the

room,

first

the

In

Corsica.

to

house, the

the

seen

the

Napoleon

journey

regret my

reasons,

not, for

do

personal suffering notwithstanding,

all

place,

167

CITY.

WINTER

learned,

have

marvellously fascinating

studying

whole

my

thinking life

long.
In

the

been

privileged to

most

enchanting

know

the

Antibes,
Eemo,

and

thousand

Devonshire

reticent

It

to

look

warm

in

well

this

upon

here

July.

in ;

as

the
in

The

St.

balmy

October
has

San

Augustin

climate
the

curative

of

oranges

virtues

par

of

of

to
me

fifteen

Mediterranean.

it should

shone

excellence

little town

of the
as

to

about

but, after Brighton, give

Queen

or

talk

not

Mentone,

about

place

charming

sun

of

to Brighton
fidelity

my
the

Cities

transports touching

the

to

as

me

or

your

From

is to

keep

inhabitants
as

moderate

St. Leonards.

swerve.

Ajaccio.

do

praises from

your

pulmonary

about

the

visited.

Montpelier

the

laud

at

the

"

from

or

Juan

to

"

But

Madeira,

; withhold

even

suffer

Golfe

ever

cities

pretty well.

the

or

have

winter

Nice, Cannes,

Havana

be

that

who

affections

of

"

"

the

unfortunates

Malaga

and

never

is

of

Cease

bananas

get well

It

city

U.S.A.

Algiers, and

will

winter

; about

and

Ventnor

acquaintance of, perhaps,

Bordighera

Florida,

and

the

Frejus,

or

or

Seville

make

please, about

if you

me,

in

the

bronchitic

from

positivelydelighted

majority

for

Eefuge

"

having

am

place, I

next

be

warm

in

continuously during

168

stay, and

my

the

most

fragrantthat

window

should

Mexico.

of

of
ye

"

of

La

"

is

I have

colony, as

I dare

say

built

that

what

long
in

and

ago,

Paradise
which

"

the

of

tapis vert, the

fruit
have

the

and

tables
vege-

read

"

in tomatoes.
and

this,
your

It

is

lemons.

sweet

readers,

my

comfortable

exemplary

an

about

this

means

thing

new

who

those

delightfullittle

found
persons

of the

But

visited

not
it

place.

is

Principino

"

Monaco

of

gaming-house
has

not

concur

half
be-

on

write.

Earthly

the

lovelyplateau

has

suffered

to

the

on

prietor
pro-

spread

detestable

for

next

Inferno

an

will

that

some

Ajaccio

out

another

such

just

to

it is

Ajaccio

Carlo, only, unlike

Paradise

as

numerous

are

only hope that such

common

the

steadilyincreasingEnglish

any

be

have

Monte

as

of

succotash," and

pears,

said

by

may

climate

and

scenery

be

estimate
who

those

of

of the

I have

not

can

favourable

my

In

luscious

"

church.

There

readers.

my

"

comes

beautiful

as

may

revel

You

already informed

watering-place will
of

You

air is the

frio

delightfullyclean, airy, and

has

English lady

is

with

teem

cobs, your

and, for the benefit

"

the

insisted

sunset

promenades

kind.

and

grapes,

Germania"

hotel

and

for breakfast.

figs and

like

"

markets

corn

your

"

plant

e"S

land

The

After

Ajaccio

of

drives

conceivable

every

Americans

"

breeze

Bay

The

picturesque.

breathed.

cool

The

doctor

the

worst

my

partiallyopened.

ever

The

Bay of Naples.
and

be

and

SOUTH.

at

was

I have

deliciouslysoft

Valley

DUE

when

even

that

JOURNEY

door

neighbour.
In

the

picked

up

of

course

good

wanderings

my

deal

of

what

we

in

many

lands, I

conventionally call

"

have

brie-

PRICKLY

TEAR

TREE.

P.

108.

a-brac," and
"

truck."

what
Even

assassination

of

old

Dresden

silver;

forth.

But

I look

and

streets

back

"

of

there
"

years.
?

"

Can

aught

"Is

greater misery
trees

who

for

cultivate

love

So
with

paucity of
a

blade

the

of

far

as

am

Ajaccio and

the

"

but

so

end,

an

I have

days

of

valescence
con-

main

search

my

Seneca

in

freed

has

it

Corsica.

He

is
Hotel

dagger, with

that

am

Germania.
All
"

of

neither

the

there

fruits for
the

was

and

always

in

and

shall be

able
"

use

Seneca's

only grumble
been

of

wretches
clean

no

Ajaccio in

al nemico
same

this

undergo

at

I have

Morte

than

could

man

that

was

Polybius, Minister

has

Germania

concerned,
the

denuded

where

plain

ing
lack-

eight long

scarcelynourish

can

lector
col-

been

banishment

and

man

here

was

have

to

of

arid

earth

toy model

"

philosopher

place

local "curios."

"vendetta

the

to

It

it."

curios;

resources

more

The

to

Island

few

my

and

bronze,

diligentlythrough

remained

shelter, and

tidy precursor
time.

the

there

teaspoons

coming

certainlyseems

be

Seneca

wrote

Claudius.

nor

he

45, and

A.D.

"

of result.
the

appreciation of

in

rock

barren

curios," but

"

little very

in the

During

searched

for

whether

aware

find that

and

have

is

trip

at all.

streets

wholly

not

am

exiled

wallet

my

Ajaccio,I

almost

Corsican

my

old china,

bit of

bring

to

some

Apostle

some

needlework

scarcelyanything
at

been

"

that

now

II., I contrived

manufacture

samovar;

women's

thither, after the

interestingkind

an

Muscovite

model

ruefullyat

secured

of

irreverently term

I went

Alexander

Tsar

and

peasant

some

Kussia, when

"

truck

some

both

the

sometimes

Americans

from

of
"

home

the

169

CITY.

WINTER

to

at

in
the

buy

inscribed

is
on

coral, silver, and

170

mother-of-pearl,for
curiously incised
and

manufactured
the

prepared

Belleville

because

veritahly Corsican,

are

de

real

the

Paris," and

; hut

Montmartre

or

that

"articles

not

are

silver chains

maintain

to

of

couple

with

holding water,

toy stiletto

at

gourds

for

not

am

the

and

dagger

lady's chdtelaine, and

gourds

stoppers.

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

I know

that

the

saw

man

incising them.
that

But

Great

could

bayonets

medal,

the

to

nothing

Charles,

Captive

and

it

In

Earth

the

shop

this

clown
:

it

Place

was

my

the

Evidently

Diamant.

find
St.

Rue

and

Conqueror

the

not

bring

of
effigies

There

gous
analo-

could

I could

with

as

continual

in the

house

espied in

his

nothing

was

portraitof Napoleon.
shopkeeper

portraitof Torquato

window

the

in alabaster

shortsightednessI

-lookingCorsican
was

the

surrounded

profilemedallion
In

frame.

that

myself

born.

researches

of my

course

ebony

of

bust,

away

are

Ajaccio

dredweight
hun-

home

bring
they

the

by

exasperating.

most

was

the

the

was

gun-locks,

at

up

in which

bed-chamber

the

In

years.

equestrian statue,

stationer's

by

You

photograph

brothers, from

four

an

after

even

of the

his

away

of

or

Corsica.

visit to

in

you
not

hang

the

spurious

wanted

only

print, to

Stratford-on-Avon, and

trifles from

delight

Waterloo.

relics ;

fraudulent

was

of

memento

will sell you

they

as

field of

of my

reminiscence

single

all

of

most

me

after sham

hunger

such

photograph,

military buttons,

eagles, counterfeit

on

irritated

obtain

not

I did not

Napoleon.

"bogus"

and

grieved

Ajaccio I

in

that

which

surrounded

deemed

No; I

for

But

by
an

stant
in-

informed

was

to whom

Tasso.

of

I addressed
I

am

pur-

XIII.

THE

GENOA,

SUPERB.

CITY

THE

"

THE

OF

LEANING

TOWER.

PISA,

THE

chief

normally

Yenice,

existed
the

Now

the

with

of

steam-launches

the

crowning

I have

hold

For

to

took
them

customs,

be

occasion

as

to

full

of

fraud

Grand

me

and

learn,

even

"tic-tac"

Canal.

the

tramways,

tell

Piazza

distracting

the

from

From
of

the

left

out,

Queen

city in
his

whole

the

the

heterogeneous
and

spite,

Italian

Dante,

own,

in

to

Peninsula.

the

Genoese,
races

and

alone

Naples

which,

Genoa,

anathematise
of

men

and

the

secure.

of

reason

St.

of

one

the

the

of

on

Italy, they

the

on

of

noisiest

the

occult

some

audible

say,

Pisa

to

come

that

Tedeschi,

music

on

am

than

the

hecome

noise

strains

sweet

publications

heart,

nuisance
should

the

United

terrible

their

is

is, I

Adriatic

of

crown

the

of

sinking

the

yelling

Kialto,

of

has

of

clamour

were

Venice

Venezia

more

heard

4.

exception

Bella

discoursing

make

newsboys

the

la

domination

he

to

the

much

the

that

in

jewels

in

even

of

hands

with

are,

present

sounds

Place.

"brightest

and

days

military

Mark's

Italy

at

old

loudest

Austrian

on

is

the

in

when

that

noisy

there

informed

of

cities

November

"

to

and

inquire

Inferno,"
denounce

conflicting
why

they

that
the

the

face

it the

critic,whoever

he

reciting that
"

without

sea

probity,and
and

the

on

its mullets

and

honest, and

the

have

the

aggravated

the

venom

arcade

the

of

useful

nowhere

Galleria
in

parallelto

the

series
three
Hotel

by

the

Via

Galleria
of

the

Mazzini,
The

cafe-restaurants,
Isotta

opens

Piazza

into

from

new

from

of

it.

"

streets.

have

inordinately

an

Ligurian

Emanuele

very

del

heart

at

of the

Duomo,

is

as

arcade, which
the

is

post office
is

to

just

as

running exactly

which

it is accessible

Mazzini

contains

back

door

Otherwise

the

the

the

to

Superba

glass, a

street

Galleria
and

Italy

in the

itself
post-office
a

and

by declaring

la

Genoese

the

North

sneer

the

for

laborious

Vittorio

leads

Koma,

archways.

renowned

are

with

in

The

and

libellous

brawlers

Galleria
it does

as

purely

is

Genova

with

without

sleep, owing

construction

Mazzini,

particular;

easilyreached

or

of

ornamental.

it is

the

belated

leading directly to

as

called

standing

his

roofed

passage

magnificent

Milan, which,

city,and

or

the

Genoa

of

attractions

by

all

"

proverb

men

trees,

without

by

atrabilious
the

gracefullestin

one

made

enhanced

protracted
rival

be

to

that

were

city cursed

population

are

night

latelybeen

for

sardines, the

architectural

The

Grand

modesty"

disturbance

infernal

two

without

women

Genoese

was

without

accusations,

calumnious

might

shore

with

they

as

invented

fish, hills

women

Genoese

just

ago,

been, who

Ligurian

wonder

only

slightestdoubt, they

yesterday. Surely

have

may

the

not

the

taunt

not

years

before

day

earth.

the

of

I have

hundred

five

making

173

SUPERB.

Alighieri did

immortal

making

by

the

desperate din which,

were

THE

swept from

not

were

GENOA,

of

the

prepcs-

174

terous

has

passage

that

dismal

windows

Kue

are

la

"

the

"

with

lids of the
believed
for

the

by

which

laborious

thriftyand
Those

ladies

lecturing

us

and

visit, first France,

few

the

of

has

They

frequently

too

murderous"
in

blessings

and

then

wrould

attendant

of your
classes

industrious

unremittingly

in

in

order

to

gamble

guide

rigid

so

fond

of

do

well

to

the

on

France

and

spot

of the

their

habitual

excessive
brutal

money

painfully and

away

devoutly

improvident.

would

neighbour's
toil

the

on

people, the

are

study

terrible concomitant

the

and

who

on

has

"

last

Italian

thrift

Italy,and

find that

covetousness

Italy the

of

place,

infallible

idle

England

the

disadvantages

parsimony.

in

the

"

recurring lottery

the

the

as

"

Nana

the
an

of

together with

"

"

"

as

of

mass

well

as

gentlemen

upon

editions

hebdomadally

literally
pauperises the

chiefly

Italian

cut- throat

people

that

into

portraitsfrom

common

in

speculations

the

dream-books

cheap

shop

be

to

L'Assommoir

"

many

and

scenes

boxes, and
in

how

The

as

photographs, squeaking

Paris," and

not

failure

appear

translations

Scannatojo,"

I know

wax-matches,

and

cheap

cigars,
de

Lo

as

through

gone

bad

of

dead

as

Marseilles.

at

gloomy,

sale

Ventre

Le

last-named,

Bepublique

and

mean

dolls, wretchedly
Nana,"

SOUTH.

proved commercially

de

repositories for

"

DUE

JOURNEY

thrift
nay,

"

while

economise

savings

in

the

lottery.
There

shot

in

which
on

also

are

the

proprietor

or

"

two

Bersagli

Galleria

Mazzini,

and

in the

origin,to

have

seemed,
small

one

scale.
appears

That
to

have

"

hybrid
been

enterprise having
turned

at

his

twopence

establishment

wax-work

show

collapsed, the

energies partially

towards

the

direction
while

sale

of

after

of the

late

the

ambition

other

patriarch
is

has

classes

upper

well-dressed

named

of

somewhat

Italy is

Young

vaulting

pressing
devaulted

rather

or

"

and

comfort

of the

view

fallen

overleaped itself,and

purposes
the

the

Via

favourite

mart

still that

dear

the

on

for

the

compound

of

bora," and

darrama
time

same

so

blowing

rejoicedin

window

at

"

was

moreover,

the

found

stuffy."
terrible

Mediterranean

not

unlike

The

for

best

Carlo

few

resort

as

chance

shopping

shops

and

so

the

deficient

its

atmosphere

that

the

in

which

to

kill

"

Adriatic

the

from

it will

that

blowing

and

proverbiallysaid

subtle

the

ventilation

wind

blast

lace is

exactly, for in

me

north-east

awful

the

Exchange.

of

suited

in

are

about

round

and

mistral

that
is

It

no

Felice, and

lanes

Amorose

the

keen
out

save

"

narrow

Fontane

Madrid, which

at

it

Via

of

Personally,I

there

in

to

as

filigree
jewellery,coral, velvet, and

vulgarly termed
open

the

in

promenade, and,

bright.

old Daedalus

Galleria.

as

seen

of

complaints,

are

society steadily refuse

its prospects

"

and

port, between
There

ever

reverse

Koma

Genoese

Mazzini

are

hotel

the

are

in

Galleria
ladies

guests from

of

example

an

which

patronise the

"

suspicion of shaving

faint

side.

The

the

is

Galleries, the aspect of the arcade

Milan

It

is

there

saloon

clothes-brushing

hairdressing. Altogether, in

luxury

the

shop

the

partiallyin

oleographs,and

German

boot-hlacking and

in his hack

and

"

of

175

SUPERB.

THE

GENOA,

be

Guarat

the

out
with-

man

candle.

the
Hotel

stuffiness
Isotta

of the

opened

Gallery. My

bed-room

into

it ; and

fancied
2

176

that

had

glass

the

as

Cave

been

of

best

of

scarcely
agonies

of ennui

as

are

you

dining

the

at

wolfish

little

and

detected

skull-cap, who
the

roast

patients fled

from

the

hyperborean

attic

than

tempered

bored

to

death.

Whenever

it

during

the

Mazzini

is crowded

The

air

or

"

with

reeks

greater

the
of

odour

the

in which

paper

much

so

the

grida,

or

of

where

of

shout,

stay

my

as

bad
used

for

and

slowly

Galleria

of both
the

into

the

even

sexes.

arcade

the

towards

rain

"

worse

cigarettes is rolled.

jabbering rises,
and, should

the

"

Ligurians

Cavours

a.

pretty steadily

there

penetrates

Better

being

it rained

and

lighthouse

are

velvet

bronchitic

and

of

stantly
con-

fish

the

despair.

you

and

"

in

same

dessert,

black

between

lantern

unwashed
it

tobacco

distractingly tumultuous
into

Genoa

weeks

is

at

the

in

by

furtively

of

act

macaroons

Cave

unglazed

part

by

the

consumptive

atmosphere

in

and

sleep

the

the

rains

in

waiter

Mammoth

in

bitterly,

himself, and

over-eats

to

length

at

other

the

ear-trumpet, the

the

gentleman

goes

suffered

day after day for three

raisins

French

always

and

"

-and

old

same

the

by

almonds

the

the

always

each

was

desperately bored

are

with

lady

who

boy

being
pocketing

old

same

hate

to

you

d'hote

table

same

opposite the

when

afraid,

am

poitrinaires

they began

do

to

apt

The

and

consumptive
I

undertaking,

one.

until

for

Mammoth

the

in

remember,

residences

as

The

successful

Mammoth

the

for

under

live

facultyto

substitute

may

ago

patients.

the

speculative philanthropists built

Some

years

SOUTH.

by

European

houses, you

several

bronchitic

DUE

recommended

Kentucky.

number

Cave

JOURNEY

sunset,

continue, this

THE

GENOA,

yrida

in

culminates

hideous

Then

long after midnight.

should

Dante

diversi, d'ogni costume,

I

came

noisiest

railway that

seashore

and

for at least
the

track

roars

and

that
far

"

there

as

of

blue

relief

plunging

roomy

and

"

the

on

that

strip

of

out

encompasses

is

horrible

much

thanks

in and

at

Vittoria,

The

the

Ponte

Arno, swollen

were

due

tunnels

terminus

the

on

is

on

and

at

the

in
the

after

is
a

rock,

side

of

indeed,

about

nine

into

emerge

Arno,

another.
roar

Pisa, and

other

which

congratulate

comfortable

Lung'

went

sight of

It was,

to

told

railway

are

and

ever.

clean

very

sound

sunlit

you

than

the

of

out

others

catch

you

you,

more

which
against the post-office,

bridge called

stentorian

tunnel, than

brilliantlylighted

Hotel

this

How

people

olive-trees,and

of

living rock,

the

sea,

and

the

that

blue

"

land.

know

of

me

the

Some

do

to

rattles

ninety, while

sooner

no

clump

morning

next

called

and

sky,

which

for

hours'

up

"

being

Wr-a-a-a-ah

know.

not

do

hear

darkness

Egyptian

do

but

villa, and

yourself on

of

that,

reason

train

through

eighty, others

commonly

fragment

"

Pisa,

the

the

bowels

skirts the

It

it seemed

so

and

hewn

are,

for

the

perhaps

by.

is

least

the

through

were

Wra-a-a-a-ah

white

one,

hundred

most

you

underground

and

that

Uomini

"

as

city by

turbulent

so

at

there

until

astonished

Genovesi

travelled

ever

way"

screeches

Genoa

between

as

an

tunnels

many

me

is

the

turbulent

I have

of the

third

this

it is

why

be

to

cease

you

endures

pieni d'ogni magagna."

from

away

which

howling,

denounced

have

177

SUPERB.

the

to wake

hostelry
right
of the

over

old

di Mezzo.

by

many

days' almost

incessant

down-

178

turbid

made

pour,

in solution

holding

The

shone

cold

seldom

English

that

travellingworld

who

into

just "pop

the

pass

bronchitic

winter

there.

neither

are

Pisa," if

The

invalids
be

I may

again.
I

allowed

we

made
Next

never

were

the

six at the

There

gone.
at

Havana

aright, by

used,
in the

Madame

supped
in

former

Island

Alme.

You

them,

after

piquancy

that

consumption

the
or

you

would

Yellow

Fever, and

men,
gentle-

be

they

excellent

I remember

the

meet

from

man
gentle-

; but

an

who

dinner.

and

before

to

; but

sexes

People

kept, if

told

had

period

before

away

them

be

charming people

of the

that

d'hote.

used

charming people there, but, missing

asking

I suppose.

of both

night

Cuba,

"

Spanish grandee

days, to

of

an

back

pop

agreeable lady
the

the

Quattro

Swedish

two

went

the

after

had

you

breakfast

at

asked

table

came

of

use

"

during

count,

of

of

to the

and

twenty Americans

fitful appearance

whom

Polish

than

you

and

Pisa,

at

very

number

rest

Ewigkeit,"

acquaintance of

at least
more

morning

pension

days

Germans,

family, and

with
were

four

dozen

"

as

archaeologists,

nor

Tower,

Leaning

Well, into the

knife-and-fork

the

made

and

Whither

remained

the

at

peep

; the

was

sufferers,

inelegantbut expressivecolloquialism,scamper
Monumenti,

it

that

was

nearly

was

tolerablylarge

and

day

quite dry

were

atmosphere

mud,

to

the

but

told, indeed,

people, pulmonary
to

the

was

Pisa, and

at

season

every

Ajaccio.

at

as

warm

and

turned

upon;

well-paved streets

brightly;

very

loam

of

look

torrents, and

mountain

of

amount

lovely to

beautifullyfine.
sun

vast

certainly not

was

accretion

the

by

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

the

with

died

that

that

they

most

table, and

melancholy
morning
were

to

of

be

180

that

I think

the
a

silver

I have

to

alien

the

method

to

Their

productions become

your

the

of

rabbit-hutch

the

morning,
plague

in

and

the

Campo

the

hut

number

you

altogether.

They

pew.

the

in

Arno

little

hotel

I became
of the

shops

displayed alabaster
Tower, the

Leaning

but
the

of

with

bar-

They put

night

were

was

advocate.

your

of

such

no

of Pisa

Lung'

were

requesting

nuisance.

at

Santo

guild

This

would

in

salle-a-manger
upon

it is

to the

in which

of the

down

came

sizes

Baptistery,and

"

riding

passing

formation,

of various

models

elsewhere.

halters

railway station

uneasily conscious
usual

excel

that

and

in the

new-comer

intimation

intolerable

Even

existence.

of the

image-workers

an

the

of

written

rattening ;

porridge

your

from

omnibus

arrive

to

particulardegree

shop-door

and

alabaster

suppress

poison

the

go
"

would

in

in

if among

happened

vigilance committee

of

the

history that
there

Ephesus

of trades-unionism

exercise

ratsbane

SOUTH.

ancient

attached

was

silversmith

antique

barous

of

hefore

erect

which

gallows,to

in

excelled

who

silver, the

of

accustomed

the

read

image-workers

strange craftsman

working

DUE

JOUKNEY

more

it

was

Duomo,
the

next

hotel, that

the

than

Egyptian

been

garnished

unrelentingness.
On

side table, which

cold

with

galantine,aromatic

ruddy tomatoes,
Monuments

Four

luscious

and

grinned

Baptistery,about

The

wedding-cake

francs

Melton

should

; the

in

alabaster

grapes,

in the

you

size of and

trophies of

size

of

looking remarkably

and

pork-pie,whitewashed,

the

ghastliestmanner.

pastrycook's shop-window,

Baptistery,the

Mowbray

Gorgonzola, "zesty" Stracchino,

upon

the

properly have

with
with

the
a

like

price fifty
aspect

potato

of

cut

in

THE

GENOA,

half

for the

size

of

cupola, price fifteen

of the

size

Baptistery,the

made

stand

to

smallest

size

columns, and
of- Paris

in the

cabin
as

reminding

interior

show

to

the

As

the

to

of
after

riot,and

always whitewashed,

The

in
Nicolo

the

was

puppy

dogs,

Galileo

with

Campo

Pisano's

There

drain-pipe

alabaster
Lorenzo
"

in

the

of the

the

sensation

gone

"

cups
de'

alabaster
and

but

whitest

baster.
ala-

more

Paris

of these

coes
fres-

lamp,

and

this

was

of

pigeons

Exposition

than

which
of

all.
and

profilesof

dreadful
statue

being

and

dishes, alabaster

Medici, and,

the

wrong;

sculpture

models

in

dicular,
perpen-

of their

Nor

Bathing Girl, the

in

the

'of Galileo's

Duomo.

Lind.

lamp-post

contemplation

the

of

and

the

Caprera,

appearance

circumstance

photographs

alabaster

Bagnatrice
great

the

Santo,

view, did

at

heavy gale, of

always sepulchral in

pulpit

more

and

hermitage

so

sively,
succes-

of

point

its simulated

aggravated by

was

intermingled

so

after
of

candle

birth-place of Jenny

exasperation produced by

gewgaws

the

the

it made

chimney-pot

Garibaldi's

plaster-

which

letter pillarsadly out

post-office

Irish

an

Chapel,

Leaning Tower,

guise of

the

and

and

chalky-faced

lighted

salesman's

Duomo,

little

the

"

placed

you

cottage, and

Tell's

William

which

of

Arcade

been

arches

traditional

that

Lowther

the

enterprising

Rosslyn

as

of

you

francs

The

little

of

stained-glasswindows,

off the

from

duty

in

structure

hundreds

tistery,
Bap-

it had

after

egg

; the

three

fiftycentimes.

franc

with

francs

jellymoulds,

Columbus'

of

upright, one

spectrally gleaming

of

Baptistery, the

; the

francs

threepenny Savoy cake, price five

the

the

181

SUPERB.

1878.

all,

created
All

182

JOURNEY

the

world

knows

that

exquisitelybeauteous
more

less

or

of
"

the

The

figureof
"

of

bold

"

take

; the

thirty

tall

above

francs

the

little

exhibition

art

there

"

Monumenti,

Quattro

sufficed

of

appearance

Bagnatrice
Outside,

price

Pendent

alto-relievo

in

blue

the

under
on

smoothing

on

sullen

the
its

brow,

purpose

in

for and

by myself, without

help

of

cab-driver.

thought,

hotel

the

and

transported,as

if

-come

by magic,

the

aid

upon

of

pletely
com-

"

the

despatched

the

moment

every

of the

or

lovely balmy air, with

of

the

the

the

how,

and

saucily,half

better.

Four

to
I

coax

had

Monuments

guide-book, without

even

the

Quattro
at

into the presence

youth,

though

as

decidedly

Carree, still fresh, sparkling,as

half

of

This

bathing girls

Arno

Maison

smiling

stick

barley sugar

discover

know

of

of butter.

in

I felt

the

You

unawares.

pat

in

turbid

to

ruler, price

large cupboardful of

cicerone, without

should

sky,

I wished

view.

bath.

twenty-fivecentimes.

breakfast, and

spoil my

pares
pre-

Bagnatrice, the length

dogs,

as

hundred

one

office

an

altitude

the

besides,

puppy

Torre

the

shining

sun

it into

to

of

and

imaginary

an

sulky apprehension, dreading

in

meal

franc

was,

one

abbreviated

an

sillyhead,

into

; the

francs

finger,price one

in

her

height

Bagnatrice,
ten

and

tions
vulgarised reproduc-

umbrella,

an

the

Bagnatrice,

an

fabric,idiotically
simpering

header"

as

be

to

thousand

woman

young

sensation

sealing-wax, price
your

plastic art

object to

knitted

some

Bagnatrice, as

francs

the

poises her finger-tipshigh

to

the

but

one,

the

of

example

corrupted,perverted, and

combination

she

SOUTH.

DUE

assistance

Monumenti,

Nismes,
of the

though

of

you

are

beauteous

in ineffaceable

compassionately

upon

THE

GENOA,

old

poor

do

the

Time,

enchanting

Granada

edifice

Moorish

know, into

Court
your

the

in

of

Rialto

the

or

wandering

corner

and

find

to

you,

how

you

but

to lose your

But

lost

way,
my

way

times, and

I could

that

on

was

vast

very

quarter of
were

distant

the

they

not

hour's
In

vain

buildings, but
in

Pisa,

at

find the

the

Corso,

by

and
walk

from

did

my

of

rejected the proffered aid

plying for

hire

at

the

looking cabman,

with

pleasant smile.

His

hotel
a

row

of bells

the
eyes

not

long

the

sweep

on

civil
He

white

was

sky

tuft

his collar

where

line

of the

tistery
Bap-

no

contumeliously,

charioteer, who

was

quite a patriarchal-

by

of

; but

Duomo,

no

of

than

more

beard, gentle
drawn

I knew

Monuments

very

was

with

be

had, somewhat

door.

victoria

horse, very well groomed,

and

sight appeared.

dozen

Arno, that the city was

Leaning ^Tower,

no

have

fanes.

Monumenti.

could

You

least

at

purpose,

the

that

awful.

Pantheon

find these

to

sure

turn

you

the

in

how

know

You

Quattro

of

sure,

steps of

the

on

confronted

on

and

are

you

either

from

are

you

right side

extent,
an

and

posely
pur-

catching innumerable

Marco.

yourselfsuddenly

the

little lanes

Venice,

to

scarcely

how,

know

You

yourself

San

out

lead

Agrippa, gigantic,black, inexpugnable,

of

in

through

of

at random

away

how

pointing

labyrinth of

the

Piazzo

know

you

Lions.

find

to

guide

bridges and

gondolas, to

able

to

Mercuria

the

crossing innumerable

Home,

no

the

of

way

alleys encompassing

glimpses

and

archway,

the

losing

after

and

be

to

finger seems

long straight avenue,

towering

You

little harm.

so

been

centuries, has

all these

in

mysterious

some

the

you

who,

SUPERB.

plump

feathers

and

eyes,

Tuscan

in his headstall,

jinglingsoftly.

was

184

long

ere

sorry

that

old

doth

fairly

but

before

and

three

Monuments.

Quattro

could

hear

the

of

archal
patricivil-

pleasant-looking,

that

he

minutes

out,

it

struck

smile
"

he

set

to

me

was

pleasant

gold,

worn

still

at

me

and

last

hailed

the

Duomo.

patriarchal

very

down

old

had

in

the

with

man,

smile.

pleasant

very

and

midst

that,

At

bade

fancy,

that

seen

my

Jew.

idle

was

my

that

and

victoria,

It

Polish

passing

that

that

gendarmerie,

help

jingling,

Alsace

murdered

along
not

think

to

land

of

could

jingling,

began

native

had

plodded
I

the

dogged

in

as

wearily

me

brigadier

me

all,

us

behind

my

to

of

of

Monumenti,

until

and

drive

vetturino

doubt,

the

bells

greed

length,

proposal

very

despair,

on

married

was

through

the

cowards

Matthias,

was

daughter

the

the

of

make

of

that

imagining

name

such

was

verging

quest

jingling

rejected

He

disappointment,
vain

had

SOUTH.

gentleman.

Conscience

in

DUE

cahdriver.

spoken

JOUKXEY

no

vetturino

gentle
less

In

of

the

eyes

than

Four

XIV.

BOLOGNA.

AUSTERE

November

BOLOGNA,

To

occasional
"

of

the

as

of

place
help

fancying

that

strange

of

the

halter

to

in

pounce

your

his

pocket,

should

august
and

interstices

be

drag

there

to

answer'for

scrawled

you

on

the

on

Still, although

spouse.

although
of

pace

and

aspersions

grim,

like

you,

having

of

the

the

stones

grass
of

about

her

flanked

lest

fair

grows

the

high

fame

of
be

decaying

with

the

her

of

silent

meanour
misde-

Highness'
and

and

mournful
and

streets

palaces,

Don

graffiti,

some

his

corner

and

crime

the

among

presence

gate

in

in

towers

round

ducal

Ferrara

portal

Eustighello,

into

the

offered

intrenched

waiting

the

Alieni"

lowering

with

tyrant

lively
cannot

you

dishes

the

middle

Forum

the

as

the

of

"

antique

and

town,

quicken

d'Este,

implying

moated

and

upon

Alfonso

"

in

reverse

askance

eye

suggest

imagination,

hover

you

subjugated

the

slaves;"

d'hote

of

to

Bologna
the

the

savours

Castello,

huge
of

heart

table

force
in

are

you

chemical

the

at

you

when

of

city

with

hypochondria

of

reluctant

certainly

the

is

strong

form

be

the

is

Ferrara

so

should

besides

afflicted

and

unheroic

that

sojourn

temporary

and,

of

blues,"

November.

health

indifferent

attacks

known

place

in

person

13.

in
the

the

drug-

ISC

gists'shops
and

have

you

stomach

black-

Fratelli
while

the

at

is

cityof
on

Sunday

home

It

last

Sunday,

"

ceremony

noise

at

the

us

in
and

perhaps

praise :

the

Prefetto

both

and

"

asked
late at

bestowed

with

and

poetry

his

in, alone, very

kings

of my

We

Brun.

Hotel

"

the

us

been

night

the

in

big

very

by

"

"

hotel

on

baldi's
Gari-

in

sabre

the

great
the

on

Bolognese
offered

forget

transit."

omnibus

his

at

with

waited

the

in

red-flannel

was

capitalof

the

"

Sic

and

travelling

received

were

ancient
;

as

friend

Sindaco

to the

in

as

"

campaigning

of honour

dinner.

myself

I had

from

recited

was

the

to

November,

there

Deputations

wine

or

of"

out

fire-eatingofficer

rosse," fresh

Bologna.

in

gallant Garibaldino,
youth

but

weather-stained,

in

experience of
I had

since

appearance

"well

is

takes

it remembered

visitingBologna

camicie

The

shirt, much

hip, made

my

bands

railway

Bologna
be

phial

one

unmitigated gloom.

in my

diminutive

very

Trentino.

and

this time

of

legion of
the

cold

the
are

have

might

barrister's

you

will back

fifteen years

occasion

companion

feel that

you

the

of

huge mortar,

Eomeo

you

apothecary'sopposite,

when

whole,

sensations

was

as

Borgia, I

unfortunate

was

big

as

the

on

and

"

of dismal

Felsina.
the

Lucrezia

label

Ferrara

from

away

and
a

although,

"

in

your

when

suspicious-lookingliquid from

to which

another,

attached

the

pouring

of

farmacia

the

that

man,

pit

throat

the

at

numerous,

the

your

Panziarotto,

shrivelled

and

lean

known,

you

in

assistant

Stabilimento

too

feeling at

sensation

eyebrowed

deal

Avellenagente pestling something

into

uncomfortable

burning

SOUTH.

thinking a great

your

an

and

the

see

to

are

DUE

JOUKXEY

to

which
I

"

came

old Etruscan
with

that

188

Malvasia.
was

As

I knew

for

fragrant coffee.
me,

was

the

omnibus

to

overflowing.

to

generals and
far

the

via

had

Sunday,

best

broken

One

in

was

uncertain
window

and

collapsible
; and,

the

on

was

It

and

beams,

placed

dark

double
There

up

choice

the
rows

was,

sill.

remembering

chamber,

full,

was

just

from

come

travel

to

Bologna.

at

on

only

This

in the

two

sides
Mr.

with

wall

on

emplary
Ex-

at

form, with

an

one

uncomfortably
Collins's

to

offer

the

occupy

remaining
the

into

tale

of

gonal
poly-

alternative

court-yard.

ceiling supported by heavy

that

alarming

in

Wilkie

looking

you

staircase

looked

declined

to

rooms

remote

The

window

the

in

of iron
as

had

liking

not

of

corridor,

steps before

steep

informed

hotel

who

irregular polygon

an

"

huge

one

high

so

three

with

old

ci-

occupied by English

were

ground floor, opening, indeed,

vast

was

of

had

accommodation.

sleeping

the

journey home,

Terribly Strange Bed,"

told

the

of

waiter

consorts,

fireplace. Its

no

courtyard

mail, he added, had

apartments

and,

had

but, alas ! when

German

Indian

their

Rome

in

that

its

especiallyfor

ever

vast

Brim

altitude

The

their

waiter

serene

the

serene

Brindisi,

travellers
The

with

colonels

East

in

me

discomfiture,

extreme

and

than

Albergo

civillyconducted

and

friends

better

the

by,

gone

some

indeed

Malvasia,

in ; and

me.

days

house,

deposited

my

almost

the

SOUTH.

capital cuisine,

its

and

Palazzo

come

it in

The

good

as

devant
me,

DUE

exceptionallyclean, comfortable,

an

house, famed

"

JOURNEY

you

found
casement

bars, crossing each

on

side

had

ascend

to

chin

your

polygonal packing-case

on

flight
level

protected by

was

other

street, but

at
at

right angles.
the

uncertain

altitude,no

of which

midst

like

plenty

was

the

wind

whistle

the

courtyard,and

ordered
cheerful.

bougies

The

hour

after

traveller

in

that

condemned

hold

without

hope

in the

cart

Giles's
I

in

up

reprieve,and

the

Heavy Hill,

betimes

bleakest

the

and

and

to

at

morrow,

in these

doubtless

tramway

in the

the

on

jingling way
few

foot

which
of
late

to

Lucy,

to travel

from

sup

and

which

throughout

the

were

see

St.

something

rarely fail

you

Italian

towns,

autumnal

The

to

even

weather.

intelligentcity

exception, Dead.

useful

passengers

Captain

was

last

my

the

was

morrow

hoping

dullest

sunless

one

cars,

Bologna

by P-ollyand

both

movement

most

with

gaining ground

name

my

take

bougies

will, at Tyburn.

the

on

den

great, populous, wealthy, and

abominable
their

my

Sunday morning

on

Bologna seemed,
was

make

fast

fated

of

an

royally, all night :

was

that

things

half

at

brace

two

my

deserted

was

picturesque life

the

But

up

and

perhaps

was

candles

four

dungeon-like
and

he

in

crannies

making

What,

which

night

of circumstances,

burning

bowl, and

was

of the

find

of

them

Newgate,

that

but

Macheath,

in

I had

heard

and

chinks

towards

with

want

illusion

this

that

stared.

But

kept

dispel the

to

mind

my

midnight

throughout

first step

of compensation,

way

have

hest

the

ably
remark-

Karely

undiscoverahle

waiter

nevertheless, and

simply

as

serene

thinking, could

it did

made

hut, in the

ventilation.

of

through
But

four

one

shrillyas

so

room.

my

for

looked

pallet hed

the

in

all-too-roomyapartment,

white-covered

the

sepulchre

there

into

this

fireplacein

1"S 9

BOLOGNA.

AUSTERE

of

exception

convenient

but

artistically

ceased

the

pursuit

not

principal streets.
visible.

There

of

derfully
Wonwere

no

190

chattering groups

at

the

caffe

were

beggars

no

and

di Mezzo.

Mercato

the

on

the

in

to be

remained

shops

or

shut

were

which

that

only

open

churches

many

all the

paltriestdescription of

the

There

apothecaries'shops.

Nearly

which

few

doors, and

wine-house

steps of the

the

on

even

the

or

the

in

quidnuncs gossiping

no

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

merchandise

peared
apon

was

sale.
Could
and

yellow
"

cheer

good

grapes

the

"

only

the

paradisa ;

"uva

into

comes

that

sex

cloaks, of

which

resembled

Roman

with

angry

the

hats.

research
Felsinians

in the

they passed

on

fancied

I had

abode

that

Never
the

the

character.

not

the

habit

discover

of

mind,
"

been

Tassoni

exactly

so

hues, that
boots

in

eyes

felt

you

and

awake
wide-

Antiquarian

whether

ancient

strangers whom

at

in

the

November

cousins

Mr.

of

but

since

Henry

of Corsica.

thought,
whom

the

malevolently regarded

so

of the

people

carriage

scowling

frowning country

island

Bolognese

to

me

mortadella,"

bare-headed.

gone

consistent, they should

chillySunday mornings

among

Irving in

and

enabled

not

been

have

least,to

"

to

wearing laced-up

for

sandals

were

of

renowned

of November

rare

swathed

mode

succulent

plum-pudding,

for

togas dyed in sombre

At

has

the

The

were

and

cut

men

donned

have

across

the

where

"

beginning

sausage

came

you

of

incomparable

the

was

unconquered Bologna

ruder

the

at

season

all,

bunches

equivalent

Bolognese

where, above

and

the

were

city of joviality

the

Grassa,"

La

Where

cervellato," the

which

"

Bologna

be

this

called

had

did
them

not

not

know
"un

been

the

from

popol

first

Adam
del

to
"

give
bad

demonio,"

AUSTERE

"

whom

bridle

no

remembered

dogs

puppy

said,

have

the

black

by

the

sausages,

softer

invisible,and
youth, the
white

hand,

her

whom

of

Guard

Kussian

regiment

could

corps

this

on

Bologna

of

better

be

might

Shakespearian

Italy

in

side

the

Apennines,

genius loci
in

"

did

Italian

coollyshady

one

in want

officer

of

send

under

this

the

arcades

"

are

the

tinguishe
dis-

in

which

heat

of the

of

and

action
is

laid

Scene,
an

Italian

rainy season

seem

places

the

"

the

nearly always
very

eminently

occur.

mind

that

was

that

direction,so

stage

dejected

my

of Arcades

localityof

intolerable

bear

not

towns

recruiting

an

cover

repertory, might
you

of

that

in

sense

character

torrential

the

Shakespearian

piazzas

the

and

from

Preobajinski

morning

appropriately

most

the

far

period

essentiallya City

dramas

Remembering

Street."
summer

should

On

of

the

than

cheerless

considered
It is

up

Bologna.

preciselyin thoroughfares

of those

"

do

members

Should
future

dogs,

bought

rambles

my

perhaps,

Brigade?

few

commanding

exceptionally

Shakespearian place.

the

all been

only satisfactoryimpression produced

mind

this

in

at any

not

damsels

the

among

The

in

be

vivandieres, the

of

supply

the

dear

of all

Household

noses.

pug

which*

as

the

for

sweetest

they

city of

however,

creature

among

encountered

as

in vain

is the

Majesty's

noticed

pleasing prevalence

it is

four-footed

"

Bologna

looked

Pomeranian,

of

officers

sex

party

The

sausages."

Beckford, too,

and

Bolognese poofrle. Have

other

the

Vatliek"
of

were

the

to

next

"

spoke contemptuously

of my

friend

curb."

would

191

BOLOGNA.

for

on

frequent

in

false

to

the

fact

that

the

surrounded

chatting,

by
and

192

leasing,and
for

true, in Venice

only
the

surrounding

angle intq the

isolated

arcades

Italian

stranger, nine-tenths
you

walk

may

The

palled

soon

very

but

of

be

the

me,

side-walks,
to

nobody

meet

pug-nosed

of
The

Bolognese
them

or

"

despair at
the

side of

tramway

the

car

should

ladies
this

"

of

my

hackney
require

his

It

the

soul

North
Vicenza

after

the

the

carriage, and
for

certainly no
tion
populaclasses.
too

was

of

sheer

humanity,

perpetually jingling
under

ordinary

sight-seeing.

went

informed

and

shortly before

sparseness

you

length, in

which,

abhors.

and

It

me

At

deed

open,

humbler

to

the

and

covered

female

the

time,

on

hand."

occurred

and

is

the

on

mass.

were

There

"

at

were

services

many

peregrination

scowled

of

not

were

did

of

shops

any

women

reflection

of

arches, and

on

became,

feet.

large

poodle dogs

bells,

the

strikes

it

so

built

togas who

shut-up shops

circumstances,
a

mean

is

Among

sea.

gracefulness among

perhaps they

absence

hailed

Bologna.

early for
noon

the

on

excess

with

women

right

so

trudge through gloomy

in

men

as

this mode

from

scarcely

but

that

cabins

the

is

shelter.

to

which

in

the

at

Place

again,

are

however.

distressinglymonotonous

Mark's

Bologna,

houses

derived

on

turning

Ferrara, Kovigo, and

in

under

for miles

pleasure to

of

is, it

colonnades,

all,be*considered

Verona,

arcaded;

There

of
so

St.

and,

bosom

the

Padua,

towns,

then

and

one

upon

all much

are

; but

rendezvous;

may,

fifth rib.

Marco, and

San

Piazzetta

gondolas,

the

principal series

one

Piazza

Venetian

universal

conspiring, and, occasionally,

and

under

foeman

your

SOUTH.

DUE.

love-making,

smiting

the

JOURNEY

the

period

of

driver
one

that

hour,

I
I
or,

AUSTERE

possibly,of
perhaps,

the

maximum

of

term

half.

towards
from

still in

wriggling

his

and,

and

see;

unexpected by

ancient

city,and

which

Italian

patriots

of

the

entrance,
It

is

Piazza

the

now

of

phantom

indubitable
historic

We

shall

the

sights

Brun

been

Maggiore,

Via

the

course

has

aspect has

intolerable

the

hideous
central

it is useless

cities of this

mediaeval

tramway
of

cars

utterly and
lines

which

starting point.
to

city ;

the
I

which

beauteous

land.

heart

of

the

of the

great

central

should

its

be
its

be

tensely
in-

manding
com-

dimly
as

scenic

Vittorio

cars

am

and

converge,

Emanuele

perfectlywell

long

one

should

here

protest against tramway

once

the
and

irremediably spoilt by

Piazza
am

most

Bassi,

through

but

speed,

see."

antique aspect

more

Koman

been

and

was

re-christened.

It

splendour

its yet
a

been

also

to

he

least

after

Emanuele.

Vittorio

of

the

to

that

at

Ugo

being

again, but

shall

one

re-named

Of

back

horse
we

see,

hours

tion
observa-

smiled

his

air

an

three

inferred

urged

Hotel

1848.

of

forum

the

the

the

has

Piazza

vistas
the

he

as

with

His
he

the

as

former

my

Duomo.

magnificently mediaeval,

and

visible

I meant

followed

the

from

that

shoulders

among
We

me.

leading

street

of

"

did

We

the

half

smiled

most

journey-

my

he

tell whether

say^cheerfully,

him

and

repeated

I
to

not

mood

merry

I heard

drive

could

me

the

him

hour

answer

accents

during

was,

the

time,

same

with

engagement,

driver

hackney

the

met
an

made

stern

This

at

I had

our

and

In

bade

and

that

mentioned

gentle derision

and

half.

genial,and,

most

When

ings.

and

character

impudent,

of

hour

one

193

BOLOGXA.

as

in

well

aware

the
aware

by
is
that

populous
that,

194

in the
at

of

course

barbarous

the

Pisa,

to

were

would

think
In

Tower.

with

If

fine

some

it

Torre

of

shaft

faultlesslyadhering

Leaning

the

utilise

would

at

Italians

the

as

manufactory,

macaroni

or

soap

head

Pendente,

again

probability, they

be

the

morning,

up

age

must

bow

must

the

Canal

Every

requirements

useful.

building

Grand

steamers.

useless

board

the

on

penny

those
and

of

erection

tall brick

the

greater

the

for

site

and

and

by

go

never

gondolas

so,

beautiful

The

satisfied.

SOUTH.

superseded by

requirements,

its

before

or

year

will be

Venice

has

DUE

JOURNEY

cular
perpendi-

the

to

line.
This

Piazza

old, a

of

days
knew

Maggiore,

the

with

Italy.

about

of the

one

di

Bologna,

has

scarcely,as

in

front

of

Petronio,

the

has
is

accursed

the

Papal Legates

looms

fourteenth

Boyal

in

The

century.

the

three

ruined

and

of

the

by

the

Post-office.

del Governo,
the

Senators

bureaux
The

Giovanni
crowns,

Borne.

Then,

tecture
archi-

pointed
effect

propinquity

of

Palazzo

the

once

of
the

del

of

is

of

those

of the

now

municipality and
Podesta,

the

colossal

residence

Bologna,

the

of

The

cars.

San

of

canopied doorways

highly-convenient tramway
Palazzo

which

statue

Cathedral

Italian

the

be,

to

golden
in

even

the

of

sculptor

seventy thousand

specimen

reliefs

by

famous

immense

it

superb piazza in

most

fountain, its equal

occupied by
the

the

the

of

cost

altogether
and

pile called

you,

of

facade

which

sublime

wondrous

works

finest

and

Mark's,

who

Evelyn,

John

area.

the

in

doubt,

no

Pubblica, surmounted

Fontana

is

was

architecture, considered
St.

exception of
The

handsome

superbly

something

Bologna,

at

which

tially
par-

by
was

XV.
"

DAY

OF

THE

DEAD.

BOLOGNA,

YES,

Bologna

sight- seeing

went

and

round

confess

of

should

How

oppressively

fancy,

appeared

to

and

glutton,
the

fumes,

which

analogous

the

of

the

experienced

by

Worshipful

Company

only

it

you

"through,"
loving

cup

of

by

prepared
as

that

make

though

begin

jaded

to

the

its

is

Knife

lane.

chef

it would

cloth

appearance

to

is the

never

in
will

but

entremets

as

you

the

dine

to

hope
be
have

be

with

the

sumptuous

of

an

apple

nowadays

imaginable

Trypherus

come

faint

between

of

grandest

speedily
;

and

their

at

cunning

as

indulge

bidden

Grinders
It

multitudinous

on

even

inhale

to

gormandising

may

dinate
inor-

an

and

the

coming

satiety

who

person

Park-

Whetstone

seems

of

feeling

the

and

egg

have

being

roasts,

of

more

must

of

of

entrees,
line

no

longed
pro-

banquet.

behold

to

at

the

shows

side

partaking,

intolerable

in

this

on

escaped

in

enjoyed

symposium

doomed

stretched

An

feasts,

was

removes,

bringing

in

that

who

15.

Sunday

Trimalcion's

enjoyed

halted

an

whole

archaeological

have

d'oeuvres,

the

hall

and

hors

of

array

the

on

who

he

if

even

November

bitter

wearisome

guest

that

pictorial

than,

that

November

end.
that

drawn,
reckoned

of

old

times
Some-

you

are

and

the
with-

DAY

out

host, and

your

fresh

place

some

ruffs and
and

garbanzos,
has

which

in

and

all the

of

pressing

bland

Schloss

about

the

would

during

but,

from

and
"

the

the

the

creams

than

if you

turnips and
I

dessert

had

dined

hours'

by staring

heartily

from

even

butler

with

Of

course

of

voices

of the

"Non

Nobis

speechmaking

beadle

on

sang

has

has

are

leg

you,

full of

much
of

end,

an

presented

you

boiled

began;

to

come

casket

the

of

as

late
choco-

better

off
with

mutton

sauce

in somewhat

all these

at

"

"

the

similar

the
this

things ?

Had

equivalent
overwhelming

spirit,at

Had

sight-seeingat Bologna.

tangible
sweetmeats

who

pageant

greengages,

questioned myself,

of two

you

general grandeur

sonorous

highly-ornamental

candied

caper

the

and

convivial

and

had

or

Sunnyside Madeira,

the

Choir,

Company's

Worshipful

been

had

waiters

you

tages,
viands, the rarityof the vin-

plate,and

the

parting gift,with

the

had

flowers, the glitteringsheen

Temple

the

fine, when

of

shipful
Wor-

hundred

you

bald-headed

with

for

recipe

last four
of

with

of the

hours,

two

the

of

the

in

with

now

served

Court

become

'47 port and

richness

before

in

last

duly impressed

Worshipful Company's

Domine"

the

obsequious

the

about

fragrance of

.gentlemen

which

ham

pie,"

for the

have

again

out

Johannisberg, and Imperial Tokay

festival,the
the

Grinders

blandishments

been

have

you

Knife

whispers

warden

dainties

you

to the

listened
his

on

Spanish

possession of

What

fifty years.

tasted

the

of

Company

"

with

now

been

with

now

breaks

whole, and

truffle roasted

reeves

197

DEAD.

protractedrepast

with

now

"

the

THE

OF

I
of

end

profitedaught

brought
the

the

away

beadle's

banquet

of

thing
any-

box
art

of
and

198

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

antiquity?

church,

palace to palace,from

to

from

gallery,had

to be

fresh
the

round

seen

arches, with

of

roasted, and

monks,

and

The

Tibaldi, who

while

; but

his

Brothers

of

in

and

form

work

serene

as

mount
a

Beranger

would

you

time

could

not

art

acrobats

to your

that

"

the cup

brain.
disturbs

you

the

of

of Guido
at

year
to

perturbation

and

half

to

and

Reni.

nor

see

so

maddens

and

calmly grand

Bologna,

overcharged
having

Bounding

little rest

quaff it, "a

It is

Ludovico

"

easel, gymnasts

till

you

contemplation

live

surprising leaps, and

most

perplexing

and

of the

for

you

of the Caracci

Annibale, the Three

counsels

find

dire

into

Pellegrinoof Michael

soothes

and

of Domenichino

But, if you
wine

in the

of

nightmare

thrown

are

colour, taking the

and

of

become

anatomical

vast

myology

Francia

turbulence

Babylonish

found

are

peace

kind

devotional

Agostino

generally alarming

You

osteologyand

tremendous

cousins

for

Crocifissi's

di

little you

is

me.

the

on

doubtless

painting

Simoni

suggestive of

after

of

school

and

broiled

angels playing

robust

meekly

the

again by
and

is

The

Angelo.

at

gets full of

martyrs

slightlytoo

the violent

and

knowledge

it is

and

cherubs

hack

alive, of shavenpated

skinned

martyrs

Bolognese

last

at

of

dark

and

corners

head

Your

veigling
in-

wonderful

very

thereof, and

extremities

mysteries.

fat-faced

grand, but

terrified

the

saints, of pictures

martyrs

very

to

gallery

tower, from

is all

Bologna

corner.

other

staircases, and

violoncello.

to

something

of

promises

masterpieces at

"galimatias"

tower

church

From

not.

wandered, the cunning hack- driver always

with

me

had

that

afraid

am

and

quaff

petits coups,"
the

would
much

you

yoi

in

; for

so

liquoi
short

it makes

DAY

THE

OF

199

DEAD.

X'

havoc, for the

absent
I

heartilyglad

the

gateway of the

installed
and

in

when,

of

suppressed

premises

or

hour

was

the

twenty minutes

gallery

Not

Not

for

closed

for

me

Guercinos.
should

the

the

me

the

The

picture

in

masterpieces

in the
in

Rafaelle

of the

music
John
It

the

been

and

Santa

Cecilia

in

of

most

removed

for

for
the
to

restorer,

twenty

day, for

and

It

and

even,

Caracci.

resolved
sixth

the

the

room

the

that

the
feast

but,

pictures in
and

time

that

being,

on

he

the
in

the

world-famous

St.

by

St.

It would

month.

by

the

under

Paul, St.

Mary Magdalene.

enjoyment.

been

"

hearing the heavenly

and

stolen

me

picture

my

surrounded

kindly set

mean

was

week, for

Louvre, has
has

had

"

ecstasy

masterpieces
the

the

of

one

on

to

dinner

minutes'
a

dine

was

enumeration.

easel.

an

It

guardian, and

my

precisely

and

for

Evangelist, St. Augustine,

enough

French

civil

three

re-arrangement,

regarded

Angelic Choir,

enough

was

like

the

"

of

course

as

on

relieved.

dismay,

to my

I found

room,

felt

catalogue,in

my

aid of the

right path.
side

the

at

to

the

that

me

Domenichinos,

which

on

particular were,

topsy-turvy condition

sought

the

Pinaco-

the

to

that

determined

Guidos,

from

in

is

monastery,

told

prodigious productions

even

were

Jesuit

guardian

three, and

and

sought it, I found,

collection

civil

deposited me
Arti, which

Belle

leading

"irrevocably."

be, I knew
I

when

staircase

to

pictoriallydinner-time,
dish.

exist.

said to

driver

delle

ascending

on

the

is

memory

be

Accademia

picture gallery,the

teca,

the

the

when

cannot

moment

gratefulwhen

and

and

memory

perfect sanity for the

was

at

of your

nonce,

The
First
the

believe, been

have

picture,
Napoleon,

paw

of the

transferred

200

from

panel

to

has
be

lost in

thankful

itself
from
in

or

the

Forty

for

years

Cecilia

would

the

which

either

of

copy

would

been

enables

the

picture
taken

from

woodcut

rude

only

all that

the

St.

Eafaelle's

about

knew

found

be

and

wealthy amateur,

pression
ex-

should

One

photography,
a

the

nor

restoration.

engraving

England

have

drawing

exquisite line engraving

the

ago

the

in

people

of

francs

of

the

of

process

few

portfolio of

common

neither

beneficence

fac-simile

it.

the

for the

purchase

to

you

; but

canvas

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

Penny

"

the

in

Magazine."
There
when

of

simulated

It

was

leave

artful charioteer
unheard

was

without

Bologna

Churches.
under

world

the

San

to

twenty

with

me

streets

than

now

mostly

women,

The

thirty

his

the
of

Seven
the

churches,

the

was

rioteer
cha-

than

told, were

just

different

served

by

single cleric

me

ever

counted

classes, at

not

of the

drove

he

deserted
I

the

of

cunning

and

and

ancient

wonders

and

humbler
I

Excellency

Stefano

Churches

priests,but

secular

the

seven

allowed

silent

spasm

disastrous.

was

San

"

up

had

fixed.

I had

its most

glitteringeye

more

In

Stefano.

altars, praying.
less

"

there

Sulkily

It

was,

got

Surely

edifice

wTere

roof.

one

to hold

through

There

of.

seeing

interesting ecclesiastical

Seven

it

which

maximum

monstrous.

nay,

"

not

It

As

Accademia.

the
The

surprise.

deplorable

most

"

full hour

sightseeing!

more

could

the

from

hackdriver,

told the

sightseeing,I

more

no

emerged

overstayed by
No

be

to

was

no

was

visible.
On

the

other

fazzolettoof

the

hand,
hue

of

peculiarly mouldy

pickled cabbage

old

twisted

lady, with
round

her

DAY

head, introduced
in his
a

turn, presented

black

velveteen

the

iron

old-fashioned

the

days

and

the

land.

modest

of

buonamano
sacristan

twenty bows
hand

cabbage coiffurelooked
fiftycentesimi,
all had

their

show, and

giftof

pompously

half deafens
As

to

the

ancient
into

call them,

crypts, these

That

the

cause

ah

on

the

for

so

cap

which

lire

of

with

Punch

wonderful

The

French
the

pickle-

donation

of

which

and

all

building

French

is

only

rable
tole-

sacristan

originallyand

was

been, in
"

most

and

corridors

and

that

ages,

I have

cut

an

up

would

cloisters

transepts, these

he

amazing

undoubtedly

successive

is

certainly,

risks,"as Captain Shaw

these

aisles

it is

the

to

it is the

as

architecture

moyenage

of sectional

amidst

guide

Churches,

Seven

Cordova, about

has

old

disagreeably garrulous, when

the

basilica

naves

lady

recall

extinguisher

couple

of

and

and

but

one

link-boys in

final

the

impertinences.

ancient

wilderness

as

his

at

Roman

as

like

railingsof

persuasivelyvoluble

or

Mesquita,

beheld.

old

soldier ; and

taciturn

Stefano

olla-podridaof
ever

and

to be.

old

an

with

you

San

for

parts of the

ciceroni
is

the

pleased

as

gently

as

he

when
either

several

Italian

with

to

fourpence three-farthingssterling. They

or

were

and

meant

for the

known

and

backshish

or

mother-

Square, yet

footmen

running

The

his

into

slipped

with

the

to

in

gentleman

me

Grosvenor

near

were

least

at

me

old

who,

gown,

remarkably

secured

acquaintances all

scale.

made

headdress

mansions

These

administration

affable

he, in good time, made

there

when

rustly black

most

extinguishers which,

few

next

to

me

little sacristan, with

plump

in

verger

waistcoat, profusely decorated

o'-pearlbuttons,

of

to

me

201

DEAD.

THE

OF

apses

and
and

202

chancels

and

been
to

side

the

chapels, the

Seven

distinct

existence.

and

for

seventy

the

to

forms, the

which

is

archways

between

classicalism

highborn

dames

have

founded

churches,
has
a

from

come

called

pages

of

aspect of

this

art, others

saints
mosaics

and

the

merest

of

coloured

built

figures and

the

these.
walls

and

by

wreaths

Santo

of

the

century,

its walls.

In

told

fitlyin

me

the

heterogeneous
arches

stone

of them

half-effaced

and

in

twelfth

One

more

The

of

reputed

sacristan

whitewash

gems

frescoes
;

is

of

by rough

exquisitely-enamelled

reliquaries; by sumptuously-carved panels

by tawdry tinselled

the

fourth

into

read

peeping through
brickwork

of

Pisa,

moulder

Isis.
the

in

would

seeing

at

columns,

Pilate, the

brick

of

ashes

of

marble

Temple

daubs

for

Santo

multiplicityof pictures,some

martyrs
in

of

of

note

gratified

Baptistery of

in

little

intersection

Church

The

they

than

labyrinth

aggravated by
of

Butler

Alban

The

period

of

day

more

once

Cento

materials

tales ; but

take

The

Lombard

Atrium

but

Campo

Faustiniano

Roman

the

wondrous

some

San

been

medievalism.

ancient

an

have

propensity

the

supported by

by

quantity of

room

given

behold.

as

Cinque

to be

its roof

had

to

sarcophagi.

Sepolcro, supposed
century, has

the

extraordinaryjumbling

arch, darkly.
wonderful

have

might

Had

not

traditional

and

of

Roman

antique

to

in this

rest, all is confusion,

the

could

I suppose,

have,

There

might

Bolognese

an

something

was

their

appears

everything through

For

it

Churches

tell.

could

church

edifying fact that,

me

architectonic
that

each
As

enlightened.

that

aught

explorationof

more

SOUTH.

DUE

"

several

JOURNEY

and

benches,

of artificial

and

flowers.

204

The
and

public cemetery
half from

As

the

drove

we

through
hemp

out

fat

that

effect

Isaia,

it

along

and

about

Bologna

this

came

was

under

the

certainly shabby

shay,"

but

still

Derbies

that

the

into

few

to

with

and

"

or

three

the

one-horse

inclusive

many

roads
all

were

verged
con-

densely

There

were

great majority of the

shays," designed
but

passengers,

eight, or,

or

Other

they

going

known

pedestrians.

; but

victorias

utmost

six

and

highway,

the

one-horse

have

comfortless.

barouches

open

at the

carry

containing
or

and

broughams

carriageswere

and

main

vehicles

with

crowded

cold

were

in

to the

was

"

of
I

Derby.

that

circumstances

the

going, to

grow

Sunday, but

and

English May,

an

city.

rogues

impression

November

Italian

the

they

"

the

half

odd

an

mile

well-kept road,

country

hang

me

side of

but

growing

about

at

west

narrow

to

over

no

in

Wednesday

flax-

the

on

situated

is

Bologna

Porta

there

"

of

to

SOUTH.

DUE

hemp

enough

Christendom

last

JOURNEY

of

frequently

very

small

children, ten

twelve.
You

have

It is

calescino.

big

very

in

seen

bog-trotter,drives
the

calescino

hat

and

couple

of

who,

gentlemen

Bruno,

quota of the

an^

the
a

be

the

so

stout

in

of Era

matron,

under

Connemara

Diavolo

or

his

the

arms

up

arm,

look

cousins
and

on

shovel

to

as

appearance

cripple without
pays

two

humanity heaped

tucked

picturesque

brothers

between

corpulent priestwith

umbrella

supposed,

fare, a

of

cargo

curricle
unlike

not

man,

very

deformed

picture,a Neapolitan

high perched

ragged

crimson

huge

it is to

of

comprises

suspiciouslylike
Pascal

kind

wheels.

in

reality,or

of

legs,

proportionatelydiminished
a

white-headed

patriarch

of

brats

of

and

lazzaroni

by

hang

wretched

one

Two

with

little horse

three

or

and

free

of

bunch

indefinite

an

which
'chariot,

this

behind

on

eighteen, and

of

babies.

205

DEAD.

THE

OF

strapping damsels

eighty,two

number

DAY

pendent
inde-

is drawn

in his

feathers

head-stall.
This

is the

Naples
which

in

the

the

became

and

more

There

like

roasted

chestnuts, the

begun,

and

demand

of which

"

Catnach
and

and

Oracles

numbers

order

and

nothing

to

brisk

Fate, with
backed

be

suggest that

which

the

people

their

kindred

and

lunged

road

to

Epsom,

were

their

fellows

yellow immortelles

on

business
view

in

at

this

the

was

accustomed
friends

"

tiers

their

arms,

The

cakes
of

was

lollipops

few

centesimi

in

dream-books

popular

or

combinations

solemn

upon

just

of

There

was

anniversary on

visit

the

nothing beyond

with

has

fond.

lottery.

to

and

the

lucky

week's

next

fair*

of

done

to

road

apples

consumption

vended

to

edibles

and

the

or

amazingly

ballads

the

to

women

cemetery

last

are

the

being

were

was

of

to

the

for which

Rudely-printed

there

yard

the

Bolognese

seemingly unappeasable,

"

and

greasy-looking pies, tartlets,and

for very

phenomenal.

smoking,

way

mourning

flowers, of baked

season

the

in

the
and

fruit

was

neared

we

more

see

from

the

was

journeying

were

could

be

to

As

sellers of

were

travel

to

degree, this

in

victorias

that

Nobody

laughing.

and,

all seemed

men

children

Greco

used

calescino

Bolognese

Santo.

Campo
and

del

Torre

to

in which

way

tiers

of

graves
a

few

wreaths

noisilybawling

out

of

torian
sten-

of
their

wares.

It

was

now

close upon

four o'clock ; and

this

strange carnival,

206

told, had

was

neared
the

the

been

of

"agents "di
wearers,
are

also

with

and

their

long

metallic

they

gravely informed
the

worthy

but

the

fellows

be

that

totallyunaware
chimney-pot
The

"

hats

buildings of

olden

time

to

in

last
the

the

Campo

monastery

Certosa.

monks

; and

1797
:

one

1801

the

of the

styled furious

the

new

ancient

1850.

Campo
Etruscan

Santo

heels,

long

was

uniform,

policeman

selected

model, and
had

since

English

an

to

their

still

their

of

consecrated

and

as

regime which
homicidal

In

our

were

excavations

Santo, extensive
cemetery

out

interments

making

monks,

remains

of Felsina.

in

their

and

familiarly known

of that

acts

Bologna belonged

Carthusian

interments.

In

British

of

turned

place was

country intramural
year

is

Jacobinical

prohibit intramural

the

of

were

first

and

their

replaced by shapely helmets.

disestablished
The

black

in

as

for their

have

force

stout

knobs.

well

have

to

to

metal

our

generation

foundation

of

surtout

with

seem

aries
function-

municipal

organisationas

authorities
the

"

"

These

canes

"

tall-hat

"

stove-pipe head-gear,

"

exactly resembled

police-constableof

and

dozen

"

capelloni

double-breasted

bamboo

that,

Italian

"

"

exaggerated

than

more

buttons, reaching nearly

long

carry

slowly surging

humanity,

or

popularly called.

more

wear

cloth

from

we

assumed

had

crowd

by certainlynot

pubblica sicurezza,"

as,

the

cemetery
of

As

early morning.

imperturhahly good-humoured,

in order

easilykept

since

on

mass

to all appearance

onward,

they

of the

dense

SOUTH.

DUE

going

great gate

dimensions

very

JOURNEY

the

as

dwelling

in

tery
public ceme-

Mr.

Burke

being utterlyto
highly

own

not

for

forbidden

the

until

catacombs
found

were

Most

vative
conser-

of

the

of

of
the

tombs,

DAY

the

skeletons, and

metals

found
; but

Civico

few

the

between

several
the

inscriptionsof

and

by

mural

highly

forecourt

of

of
effigies

marble

families,wonderfully elaborate

Zambeccari

link

further

is

some

the

the

are

Malvezzi, the

the

link

left in

these

Among
of

purposely

tombs, bas-reliefs,and

monuments

members

Museo

constitutinga

The

past.

precious

new

been

have
of

Imperial period,

old monastery.

illustrious

the

Roman

interestingRenaissance
the

intention

the

the

the

to

tombs

Etruscan

of the

present and

strengthened by

'removed

been

Certosa, with

the

left at

have

here

and

glass,bronze,

relics in

the

207

DEAD.

THE

OF

the

Romanzi,

and

specimens

of decorative

statuary.
The

Mediaeval

the

and

Roman,

present century and

The

side

every

columns,

by

all

the

marble

great
the

mouths
tablets

niches

are

bear

lying on

have
roofs

of the

is indeed

strange.

been

prolonged

supported by
have

for arcades.
shelves

noble

some

nonsensical

family tombs,
simply

mementoes

been

These
above

one

the

still

owner's

and

able
halls

the

up

pathetic

the

are

by

and

awaiting occupants,
and

to

other,

inscriptions. Many

name

on

marble

sepulchres securely walled

containing
and

time

Bolognese

passion

the

of

stilted

many

their fronts
"

again the

catacombs, the dead

and

actual

own

Prehistoric,the

the

mortuary

Carthusians

insatiable

gratifytheir

to

halls, the

vast

here

and

vestiges of

eras

our

the

of

cloisters

these

from

transition

of
and

reminder,

Sibi et Suis."
On

this

Day

lighted lamps
pavement

was

of the
and

Dead,

tapers

thickly

before

were

strewn

hundreds

burning
with

of
while

crosses,

the

tombs,

the

marble

wreaths,
o

and

208

bouquets

brilliant

of

crowd

enormous

was

multitude

as

in

similarlymirthful

form

taste,

kind

effigiesare

very

poor

of

one

in

"Veiled

flowers

survival

of

shape

many
was

front

of

minutes.
graven

in

their

the

the

Euston

to

"

come

that

"

round

In

"

Bather

these

them,

or

funerary custom

of the

these

almost

was

the

haunted
of

wreaths

crosses

curious

visible

in

photographic

deceased.

of

female
were

of

floral

life-sized

monument

pedestal

stone-sculpt
tomb-

who

instances

the

of

you

had
effigies

numerous

and

replica of

as

so

classical

Some

upon

inevitable

bearing

clustering ringlets which

Koad.

meretricious

so

so

the

numerous,

as

hung

relief

so

are

much

statuesque

low

they

cupola

half

Koman

tablets

On

Dead

of

centres

nothing

bases.

ancient

one

older

of the

Days

sham

portraits,garishly framed,
In

Bononia, and

lining

majority of

The

their

of

old

and

of the

or

an

of

grief and

for

season

Italian

corner

of immortelles

or

piled around

the

"

Pisa.

at

so

you

turning

Slave

of the

Day

modern

and

vapid

so

on

"

as

keep

to

Pantheon,

yard

expect

not

this

on

in

than

mood.

of

remind

to

look

to

the

Otherwise

places grouped together under

in such

as

appeared

by

floral tributes,

jocular

the

taken

care

see.

in

statuary tombs

in

mainly

to

rather

accustomed

were

the

for

arcades, and
to

these

Possibly the people

Felsina,

As

treading on

and

still
a

avoid

festival, and

merry

lamentation.

The

be

to

temper

beneath.

beautiful

mark

to

interred

and

seemed

mournful

Dead

to

admirable

very

SOUTH.

DUE

flowers, placed there

those

resting-placeof
the

JOURNEY

the

lingered for

purest Carrara

head

fashionable

adorned
about

with

good

marble
those

fortyyears.

The

ago.

wish, had

her

father

she

heroic

beheld,
luxuriant

in

e'en

loved

of

richly embroidered
his

as

wont

to

subtle
held

lead

whip

eagle and

an

the
in

his

days

when

of

the

one

cushion

of

la

and

"I

ashamed
Grand

of
Duke

Now

of

and

ends

surrounded
buried.

his

of the

by
The

turf

he

from
an

origin
and

on

out

was

dotted

He

on

common

this

out

suis

been, indeed,
and

"

Murat

had

not

was

become

Naples.

of the

In

had

Avignon

Joachim
of

Monte,

point

to

in

keep

to

laughingly, "Je

say

near

to the

cloisters.

wont

that.

feet, were

used

di

that

that

glass shade,

was

when

hand

the

he

Capo

at

to

inn

King

I looked

arcades
the

under

friends, and

Berg

again

palace

that

sprang

throne

was

sculptor,in

the
at

right

he

I remembered

then

upon

of his

postillionat

common

the

"

sate

his

whip,

the

where,

to

And

crown.

velvet

his

to

downwards

man

crimson

instrument

de

made

saloons

postillion'swhip;

venu

suggestiveness,had

Koyal
this

that

; but

with
ing
trail-

sabre
in

heels, and

of

refused

uniform,
and

battle

mien,

statue

realm

Whose

Waving

to

the

up,

of

handsome

sabretasche

riding-whip.

whose

looking

and,

full hussar

his

of her

image

moustache,

in

on

spurs

point

to

stands

anticipating

marble

was;

and

tomb

the

was

I remembered

plume,

squadrons

of

cunning
the

whisker

side, with

sons,

audaciously

dolman, with

little lithe

hand

Pepoli

He

her

Then

snow-white

tomb."

this

the

grave

well.

stature,

the

"

of

that

that

her

so

ringletand

warrior

him

above

Marchioness

the

daughter

the

reared

whom

recited

Pepoli, and

209

DEAD.

THE

OF

inscriptionbeneath

Marchioness

the

of

DAY

great barred
of

great expanse
these

areas

by multitudes

windows

the

at

greensward

poor

of humble

folk

are

little

210

wooden

some

clad

were

crosses

had

altogether
the

little

grand

good
in

round

children

sore

many

with

unison

arcades

of

SOUTH.

of

many

the

were

prattling

were

them,

kneeling

hearts

those

them

before

twinkling

tapers

and

women

but

DUE

JOURNEY

on

there,

of

the

Campo

the

perhaps,
mob

of

Santo.

wreaths,

where

grass.

beating
merrymakers

and

poorlyThere-

not

in

212

Certainly

pops

wonderful,

again
a

and

just terminated

season

this last remark

behold

uttered

was

superlatively excellent

Venice

perhaps, might

been

had

such

with

season

something

like

sigh.
The

is that

fact

Venice,

at

crowd

of

only

from

the

SOUTH.

DUE

deliriouslyexciting,

Never,

one.

JOURNEY

short

the

and

the

shops

on

been

the Piazza

San

Marco

had

had

of

season

of Venice
made

up

of

the

at

or

scores,

the

is close

had

time
the

as

cafes
the

all

had

gladsome
choly
melan-

to

who

had

an

end
made

lent
superlativelyexcelbe

must

and

that

and

reckoned

the

tion
popula-

thirty thousand,
the

rule, belong to

sales,

with

come

people

hundred

upon

of

and

their

unmingled

by hundreds,

people who,

heard

Geographical Congress
most

wonderful

place, had

deliriouslyexciting, the

of the

out

the

help reflecting that

not

For

some

landlords

de

pockets, not

world-famed

the

not

"

that

made

valets
as

attracted

repletion;

other

the

meeting

parts of Europe.

had

the

time

halcyon

their

So

and

remembrance

the

I could

by

the

of

in

all

customers.

shopkeepers

had

full to

rejoice greatly; but,

to

money

Specchi, and
of

plenty

accounts

"

from

been

savants

of money

plenty

had

Florian's, the

waiters, the

the

of

hotels

and

at

session

outlying Italy,but
the

had

Geographical Congress

visitors,with

time

reason

ductive
non-pro-

classes.
There
The

to

first is to

night
Trieste

be

are

; the
at

me

it

approach

second

is to

which

by

come

early morning.

fine, the view

of

delightful ways

two

you

the

railway

upon

In

the

obtain

it

last
of the

entering

from

by

the

case,

Venice.

Mestre, late
steamer

if the

cityis almost

at

from

morning
super-

exactly with

match

mid-

in

air

young

sun.

from

the

steamer's

the

whole

with

"

giore
"

applying

to the

Merceria

centesimi,

than

run,

of

cotton

city in which

the

with

golden

blue

sea

in

its

yet here

and

sunshine

colouring

and

To

Schia-

de'

is

in

mind

my

closely

of

memory

having
the

in

This

of Venice.
the

prosaic
you

vision
in the

embosomed

printed

were

sky

and

the

pink Venice, undeniably

tolerably

in

accurate

and

its

so

citytipped

blue

most

are

beheld

ever

of

is

gay

perspective,

decidedly cheap

at

four-

halfpenny.
behold, however,
deck

steamer's
of

and

rose-coloured

possiblyprinted at Manchester,
pence

cover

Giorgio Mag-

which

on

things had

another

was

could

pocket-handkerchiefs, price fifty

whimsically intermingled. Few

that

of

thus

linendraper'sdoorpost

picturesque

exquisitelylovely as

pended
sus-

rays

lying very

recent

more

livelypink pigment bird's-eyeviews

in

so

sporting expression

fourpence-halfpenny each,

or

being

Riva

San

and

horse-race

the

Piazzetta, the Campanile, the

well-known
at

Sea

the

you

Palace, the

Dogana,

flutteringfrom

number

of

competitors

together as they
recently seen,

though

pocket-handkerchief," there

remembrance

the

less

Salute, the

the

Eoyal Palace,

of

appearance

as

Ducal

the

"

seems

Pubblici, the

Giardini

Adriatic

the

of

should

sky

the

that, beholding Venice

say

deck, it

prospect

voni, the

When

the

of

glorious mirage gilded by

"

the

have

itself should

Venice

that

blue

cobalt

the

blue

cobalt

The

naturally enchanting.

213

PRESERVED?

VENICE

times

blowing

is

far
an

implies a
from

the

real

visit to

Venice

from

Trieste, which

agreeable city,and

when

outrageously disagreeableone.

incoming

an

is at the
the

On

"

Bora

best
"

the whole

is

214

that

was

glad

the

mainland.

should

reached

and,

Time,

"be that,

told, is

the

So

it

servile

have

it may

altogether

obligation to

on

the

crossed

we

ere

free

time

keep

safelylanded

were

acquired.

for slaves, and

midnight

was

have

punctuality is

; hut

become

the

in

should

we

Italians

meant

have

Mestre, and

from

orario,

modern

rather

or

city, at five

o'clock

ten

the

Italians

disdain

railways.

causeway

that

Bologna,

austere

the

to

late, "byrail from

very

left

and

by

been

the

now

people, they
their

according

all

train

affluent

virtues

have

we

night, and

at

destination

of the

SOUTH.

DUE

Venice

left that

our

one

in

came

The

have

afternoon,

not

JOURNEY

Venice

the

at

terminus.
I had

made, also,
the

taking
"

found

express,
"

omnibus

mistake

train, which

painful slowness, stopped

left

and

They

were

age

girls

five in number

and

Italian

Netting Hill
little
ness

Mother

and

be

all the

but

for

Haverstock

cantankerousness,"
well, Mother

one

lady
; two

of

Mr.

in view

her

to

matronly

very

pretty

hats, kilted
of

the

have
boot.

Manner's

Du

Helens,

Shipton

of

gloriously flashing-

Hill

might

Padua,

at

paraphernalia

her

for

One

readily forget.

not

Gainsborough

ulsters,
and

continually

was

think,

dark

handsome

mistaken
or

shall

an

with

on

distances.

joined us,

girlof six, who, having

"

blundered

matronly lady

belle, who,

houris

it

of

in

dismay,

my

station, and

every

younger

hosiery,

might

eyes,

to

that

Brenta,
:

many-caped

with

skirts, Balmoral

black

di

Ponte

at

us

handsome

modern

at

short -timers," who

"

of

group

myself,
meant

instead

train, and

my

parties travelling short

fresh

with

crowded

in

and

lent
corpu-

general viciousbeen
I

sixty and
have

rarely

VENICE

with

met

such

States, where

Pullman,

fiend-children
slumbers

your

have

you

[little
girl;

fiendish

murdered

the

disturbed

tried

for

in

verdict

The

and

the

aunts

loaded
from

of

apprehend,

the

with

of

race

"

tariff of

and

wallets

and

of
habit
and

stealing

of

jury

that

of

the

last

"

of

"

of

is the

the

and

lost

in

the

city
multiplirailway

cram

also

about

for the

the

be

jewellery,and
of

the

en

the

among

quite recently, in

employ

veyance
con-

have

they

portmanteaus

may

precious

were

shapes

extortionately
high

lines

valuables

of

produced

various

they

trunks

your

her, and

for the

reason

which

Metternich

discovered,

of

railway companies

some

whatever

de

much

name

travelling,a wonderfully

one

head

the

open

made

at

us

grandmamma,

continuallytumbling

your

by

joined

child, whose

reticules

with

large quantity
was

all

when

are

On

breaking

thieves, it

on

exacted

Madame

contents.

fancy

which

luggage.
of

little fat

and

are,

and

the

sweetmeats

bags

Italians

charges

manner,

of

sometimes

carriage

route,

number

pouches

compartments,

and

that

group

mamma,

They

caresses

The

sizes.

and

of

dream

may

enthusiasticallybringing

the

the

of

Paolina.

large

marsupial

bad

members

cousins

or

was

her

You

dreams,

homicide.
justifiable

were,

gathered

and

of

grown-up

Padua

and

unanimously

those

To

that

dreams

terrific

by

killingthe Sleeping-Car Baby,

fellow- sufferers

United

where, travellingper

succeed.

may

the

in

even

Sleeping-Car Baby.

however, pleasantervisions

being

not

abound, and

are

215

PEESERVED

this
the

railway

company.
Paolina

parent, her

was

the

mistress,

grandparent, and

tyrant, and
her

remaining

oppressor
female

of

her

relatives.

216

She

their

repulsed
little

pudgy

intent, in
stuff

as

she

kindred
of St.

the

the

and

of

eat

and

the

the

half's

her

see

in

of

On

Station.

the

best

toes

conciliate

to

I asked

declined

the

to

which

her

; but

will stretch

it forth

children

didn't
that

at

Ponte

it.

see

met

have

heartily glad when

away

the

to

di

the

the

and

more

to

the

"make

of

dred,
hun-

"

goodies
has

securely

dole.

roving

noted

few

life at
I

belongings

when

of

scarcely

faces."

her

glad

"

sulkily

extremely

of

course

and

she

out

my

fully.
scorn-

hardbake

the

of

dearly

I tried

but

that

She

in the

and
quietly,,

the

of

one

That

of Padua

out

children

asks

was

brandy-

advances

little hand

toffy or

child,

other.

treading.

brandy-ball;

at

short

her

for

remain

repelled my

little wretch

Brenta;

destroyed

steamed

she

as

from

cheap toys

the

stranger who

with

liked

praises

brought,

she

in

we

from

The

hold

to

I have

I should

whom

ere

ninety-nine

eating.

are

it,yet,

Paolina

me

doll

would

she

give

some

grown-up
the

substitute

tiniest, will give you

in

cunning

off

refrain

Now,

so.

very

they

she

to

Italian

knee

did

her

do

to

wrenched

her

playthings during

headless

and

been

had

of

howled

sullen, sticky, wrathful

feminine

no

male

no

on

had

she

doll's head

of

worth

now,

had

clergy. They

sweet-

she

full of

were

same

much

and

her

the

then

Paolina

Paolina

in

as

and

superabundance

and

hand

one

ate

There

ladies

local

clutching a paper-bagful of
balls

She

with

could

backward,

more.

which

she

as

feet.

any

account

on

lira and

journey.

not

sweetstuff,

festa, all

least

mites

attended,

Somebody

as

she

was

neighbourhood

had

well

inconveniently could,

could

the

festa in

well

she

SOUTH.

as

nor

her

using

DUE

caresses

hands

ever

because

JOUENEY

was

went

that

the

liveried

of

some

footman

of the

consequence
and

about

they

"

the

evidentlypeople

were

door

the

opened

his hat, announced

touching

waiting, was

family

who

"

217

PRESERVED

VENICE

of

the

the

that

ment,
compart-

carriagewas

ugliestservitor, liberallymarked

with

the

small-pox, and

that

I had

that, when

Paolina

ugly

frighten her
and

her

been

of her
does

the

was

all went

the

quiet

who

both

mild

and

meek

find

in

miles

then, two

The

darkest
once

Lagoons
of
in

flickeringin
fairlyout

the
on

alone

in

fantastic

with

and

quite

minutes

casement

the

water

can

temper

people

temper

It

s,

calm

you

discern

of

some

island

and

full ten

it

"

good
in

"

at

the

Dolo, Mestre
have

putting

and

on

though

was

that you
is

the

insisted
a

around.

train

one

all ; and

carriage,the lamp

shadows

the

that

who

with

down.

the

on

nice

Paolina'

further, and you know

nights, but

two

cough,

windows

angel,only

us

the

"

gentleman

comparison

little

noisy peopleand

nice ; the

; the

both

yourself

throwing dimly

the

are

up

Ange-

an

night

"

as

acquaintance

Thyestes

with

gentleman

violentlypulled
to

not

were

and

mamma

radicallybad

dark

of vicious-

that her

transforms

that

us

the

into

windows

and

upon

than

who

the

ones;

length
roof

Anger

of

woes

away

people

having
was

of all the

her

fancied

Bogey,

as

of her

normally

to make

as

poet tell

Koman

cause

They
and

been

have

non-angelic evenings.
not' the

utilised

frequentlyspoke
may

attack

fail to observe

I did not

unfortunate

so

be

might

for I

glad ;

was

exceptionallyacute

footman

Well, she

years.

an

grandmamma

letta."
I had

had

little.

huge pair of blacking-brush whiskers,

for many

seen

the

ness,

with

out

still.
a

entered
to

Not

sea.

more

light faintly

cottage.
minutes

Now

you

pass,

with

218

total

darkness

DUE

JOURNEY

without.

Presently you

Not

the

discern

glow

land

at

the

darkness
of the

island

to the

as

rattle

you

station

the

of

one

is

the

facchini

is

luggage

the

word

were

which
"

the

to

form

hansom

the
takes

manner

grow

that

of

semi-

slums

the

in

are

you

of

Venice,
crowded

of

strange

of the

short

streets

slightlydubious

to

yes,

which

canals.
whether

Grand

and

Canal,

Canal, and

would

be

the

so

consumed

Canalazzo, of
is

length.

unexpected turns,

conducts

you

Sometimes
he

you

peace

S, throughout

and

"

wafts

Grand

makes

pay

dearly. Again,

the

of

course

sea"

cuts,
or

as

the

to

gondolier

your
"

before

and

full half-hour's

inverted

an

side,

so

full hour
the

time

Venezia

love

on

secured

"

hostelry on

have

you

Bella

It is

follow

cabman

cunningly

of

but

you

water-

wafts

you

your

Keale.
;

and

way

gesticulating

fees before

that

boon

reach

is that

the

your

and

unconscionable

which

well, and

you

When

to

his oar,

jostlingof

porters

an

down

heart

the

gondolier to

your

touches

inconveniently

of small

with

railway terminus

is the

to wait

number

by the Palazzo

hard

canal.

inestimable

before

darkness

and

so

the

have

you

So

to

"

then

most

of the

brought

play

known

have

and

and

"

hotel

have

you

finallymakes
is

like

touting

quay

unconscionable

an

instant

more

called

of

Italy.

of

the

gondola

your

the

and

in

mob

to

minute's

be

line

by

train

The

may

quite a purgatorialpassage,

through

your

what

through

noisiest

railway termini
It

stirring.

long

Instant

sky.

Lucia.

is

by engine-sheds, luggage trains, store-houses,

"

signalmen's huts,
and

by

brilliant.

more

Santa

of

wind

of

bounded

horizon

and

broader

grows

breath

pale light sending a paler reflex

the

SOUTH.

may

you
not

be

up

all

begin
rowing

220

bound

will

find

whither

you

tasteful

comfort, civil attendance,

are

it is

city where

down

at

chicken

not

that

the

time

was

being broiled
failed

supper

renowned

caffe

of

allowance

cheer.

good
get

some

reassuring
potage,

have

I could

been

and

fact

when

I sate

was

aware

that

but

and

used

We

is

and

had

day

to

Has

since

ever

in

so

say

even

to Florian's.

gone

night

open

Venice

supper

potatoes sauted

Faliero

the

think

of

creatures

great deal

with

do

splendour
Izaak's
its

of

St.

days

only

in the

;
sun

the

; the

and

on

facades

marble

variegated

cupolas,

islands

; the

ultramarine

but

lumbering
the

The

hue

the

river

of

caftans, sashes,
in

tint ;

spires

with

and,
which

countries,

in

overrated.

form, and

and

at

are

the

utmost

Berlin's
is

Neva

delicious

and

headdresses

the

the

city

spots

palaces glisten like

all,

big

is pure

the

above

for

public

the

Petersburg

of

architectural

structurallyas
St.

has

remaining

order

all

are

colour

much

very

and

induced

was

We

the

been

however,

cold

various

has

considered

colour.

beauteous

most

be

that

example,

meagre

was

worse

it is obvious

barrack

of the

summer-time,

In

the

relatively squat;

mainly

are

Petropolis can
brother.

colossal

is

hugeness

buildings

verdure

Petersburg

Cathedral

for

For

cities.

most

temperature

appreciation of

our

the

only

Venice, that

in

and

circumstance,

to

the

city altered, and

especially of

and

that

and

had

we

days' stay

five

my

that

reason

sunshine,

during

raw,

the

it for

Was

are

and

me

Marino

of

that

excellent

an

and

by.

gone

to

to

a.m.

hotel

an

of

of

one

brilliantly-lighted
rooms,

late to

too

cheerfullyreminded

was

all

you

never

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

of the

of

basalt

people

gilded domes,

city abounds,

flashing

diamond-bright
and

crimson
an

Oriental

to

the view.

at

fantastic

dirtiest

public building is

; its finest

Europe

the

place,ravishing

hole

St.

in

yet Stamboul

the

the

lovely.

'

It is

have

would
and

influence

done

much

to

Malta

returned

of

abundant

land

wealth

better

to

that
have

of

colour, and

discover

that

you

shipboard

on

the

with

and

supremely

remained

to Marseilles

or

nian
Justi-

Horn

look

you

was

Emperor

Golden

bright sunshine,
you

only when

the

Pera, from

their

with

Bosphorus,

under

and

uncivilised

Sophia, which

erected,not by the Turks, but by the Christian

;

with

apple-green tints, give

the whole

to

glowing

sunset,

even

aspect

is about

Constantinople

the

in

purple, and

orange,
and

but

noon,

221

PRESERVED

VENICE

least

possible

delay.
The

cities of the United

chief

imposing public edifices,which

with

of

Eepublic

dollars

to

the eye

that

of rural

patches

two

River

between

charm

and
of

San

its

own

bananas, cypress
sombre

our

seeks

for colour

scenery
York

and

not

an

can

lions
mil-

many

of

the

Great

only be gratified
by

banks
and

of

the

Hudson

in

the

hills of

delightfulreplicasof

many

and
Pacific

The

by

cities,New

two

slopehas

prismatic

sub-tropicalvegetation, orange

and

all their affluence

and

myrtle, in
beautiful

the

handsome,

half-moon-shaped

Mississippi,with

so

are

taken

whole

Albany,

Wharfedale,

; while

it has

the

on

"

and

Francisco.

tones, make

is
architecturally
in

yet in

liberally
provided

are

the

build;

in autumn

and

Clifton

Orleans

New

which

Vermont,
our

States

trench

immense

of

gay

capitalof Louisiana, which

and

below
swamp

topographicallyis
the

level

in its

of the

built

muddy

rear.

222

Now

is

thing

whether

matter

the

study;

is

mosaic,

Philistine

has
who

not

the

"

"

the

mosaic,

hetween

or

sunshine,

because

light and
I

houses, and

been

has

taken

Tedeschi."

the

The

Austrian
for

masses

the

Merceria

much

value

might
Croat

It

Giorgione,or
was

the

certain

the

been

here
Dominio

and

the

Tintoretto

when,
Veneto

after

as

had
the

see

though
had

to France

"

the

are

the
of

dark

Halls

of

alleysof

slightlytoo

of

pictorialVenice
staff-officers,

to enliven

with

their

population.

out-door

Venice

Titian, a Paul

the ordinance
of

war

is

Austrian

of the

to the

tortuous

of

hussars

lot to

my

in

that

sadly-cladmasses

in colour

hue

order

number

Hungarian

indeed

the

independence
in

people

gold embroidery

souls

through

there

picturesqueness

charming variety of

Italian

masses

disappearance of

the

cityby

Vathek,"

grenadiers,and

has

the

surrendered

be

get back

zlinglyradiant

but

costumes

gay

"

of

great element

of

cient.
sadly defi-

is

of the

costumes

struggling, like

ever

to

the

uniforms

officers gave

Venice

and

plenty

scarcelyany vegetation,that

that

white

in Beckford's

Eblis

from

away

is

One

longer picturesque.

no

"

there

colour

of

hetween

largelydistributed

local

in

and

that

mean

white

few

are

shade

ling
travel-

Florentine

Venice, to be thoroughly enjoyable,wants

of

for

Lamps

Roman.

means

not

wish

merely

difference

the

sunshine

with

it does

"

Seven

scarcelyknows

Florentine

Every

ordinary British

read

never

But

over.

or

with

minds

of marvels.

spandril, glowing

rapturous

Philistine

who

and

Byzantine

be

to

am

Architecture," and

soffit and

every

change

to

nonce

SOUTH.

DUE

is, architecturally,a marvel

Venice

facade

JOURNEY

1866, and

as

daz-

Veronese,

of her pageants.
the

which, through the

cession

interme-

of

ST.

MARK'S

PLACE,

VENICE.
P.

223.

diary of Bazaine,

handed

entered

the head

Venice

the

of

which

at

the Venetian

gondolas look

and

barges

liveries.

Venetian

be

to

into

flung
the

the shouts

of

window

of

hung pieces of

that

the

curatin, and

flags,and
of cedar

in

twice
I

Morea

the

the

cloth

of

gold

Piazzetta

came

day, from

of

silver.

and
of

the

Pro-

hidden

were

the

Canal

festoons

arcades

from

them

Grand

carpets, or

streamed

three

by

masts

gonfalons of Candia, Cyprus,

sights such

with

and

as

all

are

slatterns,with

the Venice

ragged boys

over

have
flower-girls
and

that

On

on

these

not

are

to be

seen

lifetime.

small

newspapers

of the

flowers

and
artillery,

of

on

Mark's, the

floated the

but

dealing now

am

which

St.

banner

erst
"

palace

real
fune-

Eletto"

roar

people.

old

but

all round

"Re

the

as

satins,or

colonnade

the Italian

whence

the

and

and

the front of

day

ball-dresses, with

thousand
grey

splendidly

nothing

worn

tapestry, Eastern

bright-colouredsilks
On

had

gilding

ladies of the

galleysthe

trumpets, the

of

every
rare

in

dressed

gorgeous

Royal barge

hundred

covered

rowers

of

by barques and

form, glowing with

the

day

floatinghearses

many

so

pilesof flowery wreaths

clangour

virtue

mediaeval

for years

the

by

was

these

with

the

Canalazzo

low-necked

in

sat

heads, and

along, to

every

In

like

On

troops.

observance

sumptuary

with

who
nobility,

sables,
their

of

colours, and

gay

bizarre

the

"

Italian

of the

Emmanuel

Victor

Italy

to

over

the old

shallops and
and

it

Royal entry

suspended,

was

223

PRESERVED?

VENICE

now

voices

St.

Mark's

lost their
so

many
as

hoarse

of

to-day
"

the Venice

bawling cheap

are

Place

good

; the

looks

haggard
as

and

Venice

and

in

nasty

in which

ners,
graceful man-

importunate elderly

those

of

London

night
r

224

cabmen

the

but

launches,

wretched

being

the

for

Gardens

by

Waterloo

with

stage

on

and
"

metempsychosis,

the

so

in

to

like.

Walk,

and

was,

but

depressing,

me.

the

look

anything

Venice,

was

under

faned,
pro-

now

of

to

the

to

"

of

the

orchestra,

cold

exhilarating

own

Vauxhall

aspect

great

of

without

old,

The

conditions

mouth

the

appears,

days

almost

largely-

bound

am

on

steam

the

of

out

"

sounding-board,

contrary,

which

Philistine

to

Italian

the

bread

is

clattering

of

Venice,

used

November,

in

the

what,

to

shell-shaped

afternoon

was,

time

daylight

Ground,

its

takes

This

similar

and

steamers,

literally

Canal

Grand

gasping,

twopenny

present

very

the

puffing,

gondoliers.

sunshine,

It

by

traffic

patronised

which

of

by

only

not

the

Venice

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

and

to

the

the

muggy

sight.

lachrymose
of

Philistian

226

of the

men,

its

"

ancien

plenitude

of

; there

There

is the

fountain
the

bygone

Prince

of the

thrown

this

in

porter

"

and

himself
"

envied
his

mast

not

and

the

his

Roman

superbly

than

bamboo

grey

the

with

own

our

stouter, and

that

eye-glass than

The

of

he

bushy

was

at

makes
wont

black
the

"

"

eleven

Angleterre

to do

does

of
the

found
young
"

Bateman
the

Torlonia

Museum

in

might

cocked

degree, as
have

years

have

hat
"

the

passed
slightly

beneath.

has

slightly

frequent
eleven

be

proud

Lord

big

Board

"to

stupendous

whiskers

more

there,

rejoicing in

hat, although they may

porter
he

The

And

local

The

high,

cane,

some

other, with

old British
his

great

gift of

Suisses

ballad

of the

the

into

each

and
"

graceful

itself,as

offices of

confrere

flecked

For

the

beadle

cocked

the

by

Palace
of

hall-porters.

more

that

too, that

the

great ammiral."

some

top

stateliest

in

lightlyover

common

piled on

of the

one

gilt-knobbed

of

di Leone.

Bocca

family.

Torlonia

make-weights,

as

immortalised

Suisse

have

is the

city of palaces and

carried
"

of

Via

wall, shadowed

office,and
in

custodianship

in the

plutocraticTorlonia

cavalry barracks
insurance

Works

keeps

competitors, finds

new

antique bas-reliefs,the

against the fountain,

an

old hotel

plashing musically

waters

basin, rich with

"

the

by

marble

bank,

brave

the

of

nothing changed

is

tree

several

but

crowd

pepper

as

SOUTH.

patrons.

No

over

"

regime

amidst

ground, and,

DUE

JOURNEY

grown

use

years

of

fancy,

double

It is the

syne.

lot.
the
ladies

rest, little,if
after

dinner

practice of invading

the

anything,
persist in

is

altered

their

old

at

and

mine

inn.

charming

gentlemen's smoking-room,

instead

THE

of

patronising the elegant

Let

savage

thefumoir

and

the

brooches,

of

trays full

School

High

the

Without

; the

shop

Roman

jewellery,

on

Piazza

di

artists'

models

Monte.

It

is

conversation
is

not

the
and

in New

You

of

and

Condotti

him

as

and

entire

an

the

Upperthe

of

back

English
Koman

glowing

Roman

on

Corso.
in the

Soap.

It is the

as

picturesquely-costumed

the

steps of the

much

side-walk.
A

same

the

Trinita

Frattina, handsome,

quite
the

shire
Worcester-

potted anchovies,

miss

Via

with
on

the

"

photographs,

Windsor

for hire

same

same

stupendous changes

only

audible
the

mosaic

able
antiquities,and, happily, indubit-

Brown

plying

sparking,

it

Old
:

tinues
con-

puffs,cakes,

half-holiday,in

Roman

Roman

Spagna

He

upon

view

in

dainty boutiques full

English pickles,preserves,
Sauce, and

day

sleeve-buttons,

look

tarts,

oven,

Via

same

scarves,

doubtful

all

goodies.

the

is

it

to

is
tween
Be-

and

cameo

Gentlemen

Girls,

for

for

shop clamouring

mosaics,

of nicotine.

jewellery.

begin

use.

music

as

yet remains

of

with

laden

Young

for

School

own

pastrycook, busily withdrawing baking-

baking-sheet

Collegiate

ouches, until

and

bath-buns, all piping hot from

chemist's

slaves

sells

who

citizen

beneficent

after

crust

soothes,

salle-a -manger

the

their

bracelets, porte-bonheurs, studs,

lockets, chains
kind

for

presence
of the

227

OLD.

reserved

salon

breasts

fresh

display

THE

sweet

patient Eoman
to

sheet

their

do, the

to

long

that

hope

us

said

BOMBS"

TWO

It

dozen

capitalof

is the

years

United

ling,
bust-

gay,

English

as

foreign

same

have

di

no

"

wrought

Italy;

and

am

Rome.
see

that

when

came

hither

in

the

late

autumn

of

228

the

1870

during

Eternal

of

the

marching through
walls, and
march

to

Home

to

Italian

overcoming
the

imbandierazione

compensated by
the

especiallyof

yell Garibaldi's

several

the

and

"

was

the

the

of

even

the

tive
compara-

banners

ceased

was

"

and

Re

walk

to

not

hideous

night

about

to

with

Eletto

Italian

of
look

en

pated
emanci-

officers

the

at

and

Agrippa,

of

Papal

Pope-King yet reigned, but

have

Pantheon

their

for

The

waving

"

trains, full
to

stone

short, and

run

the

began

though

as

few

supply

thereof, who

Italiana

army

on

time

patriotic populace, and

make

partial.

and
of

to

But, when

just arrived

Coliseum,

arches

enthusiasm

excursion

soldiers, had

but

city was

just

was

Zouaves

The

Italy

Italian

the

no

had

down

been

decoration

1'Armata

it

Rome,

had

ordinary guise.

Hymn

Campidoglio

that

There

juvenile section

"Viva

of

gallant Papal

window

the

in

few

triumphal

of

consisted

Pia, knocking

of the

paucity

United

capitalof

Porta
a

its

for

flags

howls

had

Quirinal.

change

the

four-and-twenty hours.

about

fair which

the

SOUTH.

DUE

City had only been

space

after

day

JOURNEY

Forum

the

and
and

Baths

of

continued

to

Caracalla.

Every
change.
of

inaccessible

to

content

entitled

Romans
the

read

to

Roma

del

underground

remained

to be

orthodox

and

newspapers,

which

with

piles

hitherto

who, when

opinions
"

they

been

fain

occultly-seditiouslittle print,

which

kitchen, and

only

not

Osservatore, had

an

Romani,

Rome

laden,

Florentine

of Liberal

with

themselves

irregular intervals,
an

and

Genoese,
to

seemed

train

Every

Milanese,

declined

that

day, however,

made
was

printed

its

appearance

ostensibly
up

edited

chimney

"

at
in

but

with

also

who,

HOMES

TWO

THE

of

enterprisinggentlemen
as

soon

so

politicalviews,

advanced

hotel, proceeded to organise,to edit, and

an

new

the

dawn

of

Wolf,

line

the

Forum,
Shout

some

fresh

the

Broken

Italian

the

journals,with

the

Groans

del

Popolo

Porta

titles such

Jove.

Innumerable

wasted

their

little

energies

in

livelihood

paddling

barefooted

of

an

transformed

eye

first week

the

ceased

again, I

suppose,

is tumbled
New
St.

Paul's,

the

After

of

otheiv

portion of

New

the

corners,

universal

over

the

the

imposing

will

be

never

cataclysm

and

of

of

the

which

the

his

at

ere

had

City

body
every-

pected
long-exsketch

electric

Finance, the

structures

and

and

carious
pre-

Silent

of

twinkling

comes,

arrives,having finished
means

had

Rome

expired

of

mud

earned
in the

Tarpeian Rock,

Ministry

Hotel

of

light,the
Costanzi,
form

present

Rome.

impromptu

army

unheard-of

until

photograph, by

to

had

It

City.

Zealander

last remains
and

Silent

the

in

peripateticnewsvendors,

enfranchisement

of

be

to

into

head

hitherto

had

Eipetta, or

how

not

the

who

boys,

downright beggars, were

as

the

fancied, sprang

from

Koman

Tiber, by the steps of the

the

I know

"

like Minerva

morning fullyarmed,

every

People's

of Tyranny,

I have

those

as

Capito-

the

Rome,

Free

Chains,

witnessed

The

public opinion.

of

organ

at

brand-

publish

to

morning

Every

Banner,

of Freedom,

many

up

themselves.

for

newspapers

carpet-bag

deposited their

had

they

ever

229

OLD.

THE

"

newspaper

of newsvendors

hairdressers

hung

quite unexpectedly.

came

proprietors and
the
their

strange

signboards

suddenly proclaimed, in printed placards

from

man

on

the

provised
im-

Hitherto

Deluge.

up

the

at

street

Turin

walls, that

230

he

had

twenty thousand

dispose of

to

the

for

midst

very

ready-made

seminaries

clothes

little baskets

full

saucilyfrom
had

of

of

cafe to
been

never

scandal

alluring mien,

flowers

introduced,

imaginable, sticking posies

and

expecting centesimi

It

also

was

of

days

of

worthy

the

and

that

urbane

give an

not

be

to

Franciscan

discouraged by
and

kind

to

begged

him,

treated

Reverend

on

years

Laurence

shod, shaven-crowned

hatted
in

"

friars in

black,

who

the

were

whom

coolest

they
manner

whom

it

set

out

or

to

for

It

inn-yard
there

was

and

grey,

throng

the

was

was

his

good

be

predecessor

Calais

at

to

every

by

the

day

an

friars, barefooted

bushy-headed,
in

sure
plea-

stances,
politicalcircum-

ever.

monks

That

morning walk,

the

portal of

quite

of

state

the

was

churlishly

But

the

of

disappeared.

to

the

first few

things appeared

new

outside

how
in

ago

in these

monk

blithelyas

as

brown, friars
wont

remark

life

altered

Sterne.

appreciable falling off

or

you

remembering

long

tripped

arms,
to

trim

stranger's button-hole,

Roman

of

before

alms

the

the

as

Albergo d'Inghilterra,and
to

was

into

bearing

left

the

in

melancholy

transformation

clean

and,

coquettishly-

"

in return.

old, pleasant landmarks

very

cafe, accosting gentlemen

under

ing
unblush-

an

and

their

on

as

theological

made

scandal

upon

palaces,

from

austere

restaurants

new

females

young

; and

and

In

suddenly

as

up

of Aladdin

monasteries

"

ancestral

two

started

Palace

and

; while

appearance

attired

the

gentlemen's boots

surprisinglylow prices.

warehouse

cafes

new

ladies' and

Corso, between

lees of venerable

very

SOUTH.

at

money

the

been

DUE

pairs of

ready
of

it had

though
the

JOURNEY

cowled

friars in
streets.

or

shovel-

white, friars
The

long-

232

the

giant

and

prelates
and

incense

and

old

shovel

the

in

of

time

German

Kome.

and

over

distracted

far

blessing

war

Kome

in

in

the

went

France

the

transformation

to

best

fortunes

see

of

of

of

on

side.

either

Old

Ked

the

way

my

England,

to

and

carriage

on

away

the

"

chamherlains

crowd

made

bleeding

interested

than

his

the

time

soutane

his

with

of

odour

last

"

from

along

So

and

Lyons,

flannel

kneeling
!

the

scarlet

in

mingled

for

seen

alighting

the

radiant

.the

white

trotting

and

more

had

long

velvet,

smilingly

with

of

throng

glittering

Nobile,

heavy
I

his

crimson

waving

through

in

Pontifical

Good-bye,
Flag

and

the

Guardia

tapers.

Nono,

wake,

plumes

the

thick

waxen

Pincian,
his

air

Pio

hat

peacocks'

priests,

the

gold,

good

of

fans

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

at

the

that

Franco-

into

New

THE

POPE

IN

THE

SEDIA

AT

ST.

PETER'S,

XVIII

THE

TWO

ROMES.

NEW.

THE

ROME,

THE

Home

since

approaching
that

souls

the

but

ten*

or

the

of

the

apparent

to

thronged

with

is

population

owing
I

foot-pavement.

more

exiguous,

made

structurally
palaces,

in

generation

monks

cavalry

and

nuns,

barracks,

thing

to

the

at

and
but

least.

turn

it

The

till

and

night,

if

certainly
It

is

one

monasteries

is

quite

contemplate

the

another
demolition

Corso

would

become

not

down

some

of

to

thing
into
and

of

be
the

be

dreamt

to

dispossess

post-offices
a

the

marciapiede

could

not

is

movement

itself

pulling

be

of

the

roadway

vast

must

narrowness

thoroughfare

contingency

times

the

some

the

case,

Papal

since,

without

that

placed

observer.

restricted

already

broader

old

be

any

incurable

the

incurable,

whilst

historic
this

morning
to

say

the

widened,

were

from

people

difficult

always

superficial

most

should

Italians
thousand

opinion

In

the

since

The

of

lower.

closely

hundred

are

walls

the

thousand

twenty

even

increase

within

humanity

of

something

three

statists

cautious

more

aggregate

contains

now

28.

population,

inhabitants.

thousand

capital

her

to

Seventy,

year

hundred

one

added

has

Italy

memorable

the

assert

United

of

November

far

the

less

of

and

cable
practi-

grim

old

234

fortress-palacesof
frowning

several

their

time

now,

externally like

pricelessart

the

in

and

traffic of Rome

has

pedestrians,and

the

to

by

by

omnibuses

when

old

the

to

of

notice

but

of

More
now

"

the

Impresa

than

blessed,
with

of

his

tramway

that
the
"

of the

local organ

gutter

gentile
the

terms

your

Yes

; there

victoria.
I

do

caravans

cab

to

nuisance

which,

to

approved

of

the
portant
im-

dealing
existed

"

are

omnibus

an

the

run

toes

every

"

start

for

being

speak

not

the

of

having

ought

the

wheeled

the

least

guests and

of

are

of

in the
I

amazement,

my

London

belonging

and

to

Paris

company

Romana.

this, the
or

commodious
London

for

risk of

Borne.

of

frequent it,
difficult,very

groups

at

or

pattern plying duly for hire, and

called

look,

tolerable

passing

omnibuses

the

by

very

four-wheeled

Rome

New

in

Those

the

who

step into

to

capitale,"as

Corso

convenience

days

in

Corso, and

proportion with

blocked

run

you

wheels

on

death-blow

which

the

somewhat

forced

are

you

della

in

passing omnibus,
the

in

Eomans

times

most

hotel-keeper in
for the

of

increased

omnibuses.

hotel

stood

full within

are

slightly dangerous;

Corso,

some

crushed

but

trottoir

number

footway being

in the

over

of the

the

colta cittadinanza

crowd

have

assaults, and

Newgates,

many

at

uncomfortable,

owing

so

narrowness

circulation

render

sieges and

stout

increase

vast

of Caracalla, which

the

from

plundered

treasures.

normal

The

been

have

piles, the

huge

"

may

Baths

the

from

or

nobility

Koman

of which

stones

Coliseum

the

SOUTH.

DUE

JOUENEY

cursed
cars.

"

broader

thoroughfares

there

are

They

are

two
all

opinions
built

on

of
on

Rome
the

the

are

matter

pattern

I took

which
on

the

of

seats

the
in

abundant

now

the

under

new

addicted

returning

to

not

"

quite certain

wheels

in
those

were

the

of

the

stony

ruts

but

in

sunken

The

ever.

There

are

the

still,whistling

who

first

policy of

the

"

tramway

as

and
be-

at

the

Destra,"

the
and

but

"

the

Dead

back.

to

has

wandered
chariot

the

What

City ?

regret

to

Roman

purchase

beautiful,the
of

say, made

"

ignoble

Roma
army

serving

behind

plough,

or

last

as

ful
doubt-

Redenta
of

"

"

youths, by

shop counters,

toiling at

is

loafers."

the

kerbstone, jabbering about

"

up

jewelleryor

unwholesome-looking

the

am

enough

sure

by

haustive
ex-

and

to

embellish

now

worn

thoroughfare

haggard
ought

to

that

to

the

the

there

ruts

is not, I

multitudinous

hundreds, who
better

main

of

trams

Corso

"

plagued by

but

roadways

antiquities the

as

find

turn

say

sitting back

deep

opulent foreignersanxious

Roman

but

itself,who

the

seen

the

"

passengers

tramway

not

crowd

The

the

has

Pompeii

will

you

carpentum

with

caravan,

While, touching
in

as

"

"

be

rule,

will

If you

is

nothing

is, as

antiquities

"

is

aspect neatly figured,I think

in its char-a-bancs

is the

Rich

by Anthony

work

the

would

there

humanity

Roman

are

which

invention

its first loves.

to

cars

that

to

first that

linen

Italy,and

in

taken

that

of

tramway

American

next

copious dictionary of

any

car

and

sun,

canopied by

have

and

"floats"

or

parallelrows

town

remembered

it not

the

with

These

rain.

Italians

the

ostensiblya purely modern

astonishing were

platforms

considerable

every

which

alacritywith

Mere

kind, and

or

sun

235

NEW.

sides, furnished

the

at

THE

"

Nice.

at

char-a-bancs

from

awning

of

note

wheels, open

HOMES

TWO

THE

or

loom,
the

Sinistra," denouncing the

236

alliance

and

which

their

parrot-likefashion,
read

have
"

issued
Then

in

"

hot

and

hot

is the

there

to

with

say,

these

with

class of

ancient

Komans

folds

fingers upwards

their

painfullyedging by

while

breath,

bated
"

of the

the

the

make

funny

at the

yati, waifs
and

expense

of these

Corso.

State,

or

attaches

not

of

collogue

"

or

disparagement
with

them,

no

expressions

as

the

"

country,"

"

old

and

gentlemen,

Government
Handbook
the

may

clerks
of

Spain

slightest desire

be

Pontifical
the

discharged

old

forth.

so

dilapidated obstructors

They

strays of the

unpensioned
of

have

and

of

of the

merry.

in the

"

"

cashiered

or

earlier editions
so

kerbstone

"

are

menacingly,

hear

family likeness, these

curious

empleados

ex-"

whom
to

they

fists

may

Who

tented
evidently discon-

disdainful

you

shoulder

back.

are

their

is

intrigue," corruption," spoliation

"ruin

revenue,"

have

They

"

are

that

"

the

over

uncomplimentary

calumny,"

"

falsehood,"

them

such

utter

They

in

worn

the

over

clench

throw

which

shabby cloaks,

were

somebody, for, as

them

see

and

flung

garment

may

articles which

loafers," sallow, wrinkled,

rusty hats

together,you

were

recite, in

newspapers,

with

or

them

to sunset.

"

wonder?

something

leading

halfpenny
sunrise

the

elderly men,

"

Papal

Aspromonte

and

falling in picturesque

and

before

and

halfpenny Cavours,

men,

of

Fidardo

of the

of

from

older

end

one

Castel

of

togas of the

the

as

withdrawal

screaming

host

the

many

"

the

grizzled,woe-begone
worn

SOUTH.

fought

were

suck

They

they

about

bragging

or

Mentana,

born.

DUE

Austria, demanding

with

guarantees,

JOUKNEY

over

"

used
to

of

Pontifical

to

be
the

impie-

police, superannuated

office of

subordinates

the
of

Cardinal
the

tary
Secre-

Pontifical

238

so

it is with

and

the

fruiterers'

modern

Spaniards.
"

common

Caffe

the

hotel

old

one

the

do

in the

when

of

Spain.

spoke just

dined

at

di Roma.

but

lunch

you

I have

if,being
at

in

of

Court

cuisine

when

to

whether

Campeggio

English cookery
of

ascertain
of

"

the

disagreeably supreme.
who

at

abhor

all

English
I

wish

and

dine

at

years

of

course
dis-

that
the

the
most

say

beefsteak

the

command

in

the

"

already

The
there

reply
in

was

Alps.
!
and

From

potatoes.

Calais

potatoes

disagreeably,because
and

sented
pre-

absolutelynothing

"

changed

beefsteak

that

to

of the

the

Vatican.

effect

nienti

is

mission

English cookery

the

to

was

assolutamente

lo ! how

Constantinople

of the

you

Spanish,

express

of

transplantationbeyond

now,

Rome,

opinion

my

included

being

kitchen

the

at

Campeggio's

at the

worthy

splendid repertoireof
Cardinal

time

my

has, indeed, hopelesslydegenerated

was,

VIII.

Henry

dish

any

an

Spillmann's or

many

the

to

next

of Cardinal

part

Pontiff,

Supreme

is,
It

Europe.

days

the

en

is

monotony

Morteo's

during

never,

culinary topics, disguised

detestable

In

"

of

now,

Rome.
the

modern

the

establishments, I apprehend, yet maintain

Romans

Italian

persons

or

preciselythe

instead

foro

vary

to

"

en

of New

lunched

do,

And

"

the

Forum,

people

wished

you

is

It

so.

South

feature

the

worthy

is

which

reputation;

as

Cor

butchers'

the

the

Failing

person

of

hang about

to

Roman-like

well-earned

modern

of

SOUTH.

the

about

d'hote, you

on

the

Forum.

Roma,

These

Caffe

since

di

"

Nazzari's.

to

the

characteristic

table

their

likes

that

yet

That

He

extremely
say

is

on

hangs

To

casa

eminently
"

stalls

that

with

same

su

New.

Roman

DUE

JOURNEY

You

reign

there
will

to

are

have

little else offered you

fried

fish and

Italy
crossed

the

which
"

me'

mpiphtaik

earth
can

"mpiphtaik"
mean,

letter

no

Byron

you

"b"

in

to

beefsteak
This

the

with

of
raw,

me,

worthy

and

of the
but

culinaryexpert

not

the

me

underdone

feverish

is to

wolf-like

heartiest

loin

"

savage

as

say,

or,

of
as

steak,

desire
the

in

of

to

as

it is

devour

for

late luncheon

the

"eat

beefsteak

at

for dinner.

eight

or

nine

or

for

"

the

life,and

the

But

The
o'clock

Americans
in

the

the

even

or

call it, "

We

solid

of

rule, beef

the Americans

an

Kaffir-

as

largestamount

as

the

of

it does

as

"

time.

or

represents

ideas

modern

earlymorning repast.
or

in

generally.
"

"bifteck

English

possible

prudish among
the

at

only

not

civilisation

of

excitement

shortest

dishes

of fat, is, to

Anglo-Saxon

English people eschew,

the

potatoes.

realityquite as Abyssinian

is in

sciousness
con-

refers

menu

destitute

of the
of

"

Lord

the

to

Romaic

attention

student

prevalence

011

have

call

they

awake

you

wholly

supremacy

haste, flurry,and

succulents

steak,

the

steak

like,that

almost

universal

much

so

of the

is

flesh, either half burnt

bullock's

serious

most

Greeks

cunningly-prepared

of

Continent

the

on

what

otherwise

earth-apples"

broiled

wonder

that

in the

"

flapof

half

To

"

abandonment

virtual

favour

mystic entry

Athens

modern

the

Then

Mpiron."

first item,

spelt "mpiphteki"

language, and

their

Lordos
that

that

remember

to

even

at

restaurant

is

it

of modern

the

and

begin

sometimes

"

when

"Ho

You

geomela."

badly-

potatoes have

of Greece
a

to

end

one

and

fare in

bill of

in the

see

you

mainland

to the

alternative

an

from

beefsteak

The

239

NEW.

as

"

omelettes,

other.

sea

THE

"

for breakfast

ill-made

the

to

HOMES

TWO

THE

rump

tender
steak

reserve

habitually
morning,
Q

and

240

French
led

that

imagine

to

DUE

hotel

Italian

and

JOUKNEY

and

SOUTH.

keepers

restaurant

of the

English appetitesare

naturally

are

Transatlantic

calibre.
As

for the

Italians, but

the
likes

of

"

of

restaurant

once

lived

"porter-beer,"

and

native

Ireland
with

to

Hindustan,

to

round

rope

gin," and

finally to
in

slightestuse
If

decline

you

You
you

can

know

have

the

habit

beef, and
extend
in

how

only

wretched
dans

le

shilling and

waiter

replieswith

tob

"un

is not
the

on

grin,

of

Smithfield,"

"

de
the

subject.

steak, and

eternal

to

natives

There

spleen."

the

of

"

French

fair dinner

very

order

to

it ; and

will

help

explain

to

you
him

to

eating something
chops

mutton

further

oil, without

Italian

le

returning

to

order

Parfaite-

saignantes,n'est-ce-pas?

obtain

of

with

instead, he

obliging of waiters,
You

"

plum-pudding,

"

Bien.

ment.

British

sell his wife

partake

to

accidentallyof

the

oppress

fantastic
Paris

grogs," prior

of

the

the

by

fashionable

some

"

dition
con-

it

for

beef- steaks,

neck, for

die

arguing

cutlets

mutton

her

blue-raw

account

ogre,

"colossal

in

"

"

half-raw

on

land, there

and

an

"

among

Englishman

every

possibly in

"

excentriques

extraction, who

his

time

patronised by

was

only

can

upon

milords

saignant

under-cooking"

supposition that
epoch

bien

"

meat

prevalent,not

French, that

the

among

his

have

to

delusion

monstrous

most

dishes

than
any
as

and

to

are

Tell
eatable,

di

acquire that

that

Koma,

besides
as

knowledge.
are

in

beefsteaks, roast

regards

Giovanni

if

most

English people

sprats, gudgeons, and

sauce.

Gaffe

Giovanni, tallest and

else

that

the

at

"

to

fish their

views,

"

slip soles, fried

serve

especially

those

you

of

such
the

THE

"paste
"

"

kind"

lasagne,"

"

turkey,

or

with
a

butter

and

the

wild

in the

boar

change,

as

; but

districts ?
when

Silver

"

Essay

who

milk
it

"

you

of
frattaglie,"
You

will

did

good

which

and

St. Julliens, and

reads

in

The

other

many

"

Romans
the

at

adhere

to

of

Roma

existence
the wine

onions

things,

of the

fried

in

it; fly from

if you

so-called

of the

rural

Romans

modern

of

with

Portugal

epicures

and

because

immoderately
;

is
tastes

the

"

fond.
be wise
Medocs

country, which

well- flavoured, and, when

"heady."

the

remember,

dreadful

are

I liked

delightfully

as

frittura," avoid

not

pig,

out

now,

despise.

most

not

"

would

change,

roast

even

not

cheap, unadulterated,
water,

Pig

smothered

temporarily forget the

with

of

creams

but

of the

delicacy that

get good wine

will

tables

tripenowadays

eat

offered

are

you

diluted

by

which

sauce,

dinner

Roast

"

that

own

sour

delicacy

and

was

tripe,and

sweet-

"

ago

baby-porkers

anybody

School

If

may

dressed

and

sweet

good

very

unconscious

on

eats

in

"

the

"

are

the

about

Fork

batter.

be

may

Does

mind

onions,

eat

we

stewed

of the

wholesome

rendered

cookery

Roman

some

talks

Lamb's

rice boiled

and

Years

enter.

agro-dolce

at

Charles
ever

to

"

dish

One

age.

birds

small

or

really

polenta. Stay, you

risotto," or

parmesan,

gallinaccio,"

of saffron.

with

albeit

"

polpetti,"

mushrooms,

or

of boiled

"

tasty

grated

further

standing

is

bed

mysteries of Italian

you

"

funghi

"

ravioli,"

forth ; cutlets of

so

pastry generally of which

advise

"

on

slightinfusion
Into

"

especially uccellini,"

served

and

241

NEW.

"

and

indulge, also,

"

with

THE

"

stuffato,"

spaghetti,"and

quail order,

"

macaroni,

served

dish

dainty

HOMES

TWO

Try Chianti;

moderately
at

least

ifc

242

of

tastes

the

the

grape.

you

the

wine

and

The

rack,

forwards,
feel

recitingthe
author

Outside

hugest

Florence

of

fiasconi
"

bottiglia

again when

the

it would

they
to

are

when

well

who
I

the
both

pluck

iron

and
may

watch

this

Chianti

of

heart, and

up

"

in Toscana

"

the

water-drinker

confirmed

"

had

not

knew

Papal
which

afternoon

this

thus

pint

is

an

end

drunk

finished

pound,

Retribution

and

Roma

di

the

It

was

long

Antibes

distinguished corps
resort.

the

weighs

the

; it is

their

weighed

bout, and

accuratelygauged

be

should

where

all the
But

round,"

surely when

weigh

would

world

the

wine-bibbers

the

thus

and

overtake

him

fair."

Caffe

Zouaves

they

table

the

placed on

can

landlord

The

seen.

topers have

bottle.
"

be

osterie

are

especiallyin Tuscany.

is at

the

as

"

for.

there

say

it is

Tuscan

appear,

sederunt

as

they

gallon

"Bacco

was

of

kind

consciences
as

drunk

from

poem

quantity consumed

duly charged

"

lines

famous

them

over

spirits may

stouter

well-known

tender

in

litres

good

slowly backwards

with

have

they

in

elegant

familiar

four

me,

table

sways

Guests

its

are

we

Brob-

t'other fiascon c.

order

the

; but

which

of

diva

that

them

which

the

on

it

empty

mournfully.

reminder

between

"

when

placed

guiltyfeeling creeping

mute

"

It is

the

flask, with

fiascone holds, they tell

which

on

bulb, with

four, Giovanni

of

resembles

oil

of anything

tastes

party

Florence

of the

quart bottles.

or

be

you

Bordeaux

fiascone which

rush-covered

England.

SOUTH.

so-called

If
in

brother

dingnagian
form

The

grape.

but

brings

DUE

JOURNEY

the

years

ago,

Legion,
Roma

patronised by

of
was

only

in

the

the

of

officers of

the
a

days

habitual

few

native

TWO

THE

who

gentlemen,

EOMES

and

the

styled in

Roman

commentary

Verano

at

in the

the

Campo

defenders

of the

inscription is
rule, and
as

Zouaves

Papacy
Latin

recitingthe

natives, who

City against

French

had

been

this

But

erected

has

are

"the

left to

their
the
hands

the

sabres

brave

Beneath

each

with
of their

Vatican,

"Roma

and

Temporal

on

the

Romans

the

the
the

If the

hand, have
the

of

other,'as

and

Mentana

effect that

of

memory

Enfranchised

Rome

times.

the

Roma

about

in

five

shaking

all

tances,
acquain-

were

and

with

now,

intent, and

The

the

gallant gentlemen
shake

them

see

absinthe

circle

to

monument

in

can

though they

in getting anybody
difficulty

with

fellows, nevertheless, the

Power.

immediate

the

of calamitous

devoted

and

long-headed

inscription now

Government"

record

sional
occa-

combined

Latin

"

the

and

they would,

upper

shrewd

well

as

parricides."

of

Redenta"

vermouth

poor

Pontifical

See

Holy

quite a desperate cordiality.

own

original

the

humour

clattering,
flockinginto

afternoon
with

the

marble

of

sense

Theocratical

of the

Paladins

under

the

of

remarkably

posterityas

were

The

brave

Italians, notwithstanding their

subtle

the

of

memory

horde

place

erected

warriors, strangers

they gained

expression.

by

They

out

the

pithily

are

monument

Mentana.

of the

copious

in

foreign mercenaries,
"

composed

postscript,in Italian,to

runs

with

of

one,

"

the

vehemence,

dignity

fell at

inscription from

monument.

people,

who

virtues

assuredly, when

hacked

the

to

fought victoriouslyfor

Eternal

most

Rome

Mercenarii

soldiers

the

on

"

the

at

Antibes

the

stranieri," as

243

NEW.

scowled

apart and

sate

THE

"

hands

new

fact

precincts

experienced
with

that,

was

them.

of

the

some

The

244

bulk

of the

Romans

the

Roma
and

counsel

take

with

the

around
cradle.

Gaffe

The

bankers
nations.

Last

Legation

were

old.

The

side

of the

and

will

and
the

find

dish

veal

and

fine

"

you

day.

with

sauce,

"

it

of

the

all

Japanese
in
not

was

goodly
at

the

on

the

other

present handsome

narrow

than

in

and

On

for
the

day

"

was

with

has

which

by

; but

I
an

was

there

is

be

on

giorno

lunched

"

at

preparation
the

on

top

of

grated cheese,

; but

entrance,

one

middle,

what

not

del

when

and

dozen,

will

piatto

saffron

where
a

you

wonderful

in the

Palace

streets,

"

morning

of I know

Chigi

which

"

and

francs

two

the

slightlymore

Roma,

at

ordering

call

It

to

the

oysters

marrow-bone

made

restaurant,

labyrinth of

capital restaurant,

spaghetti

Corso, opposite the

the

is

of the

dish

Try Morteo's.

to

"

Roma,

but

name,

expensive

if

of

mountain

it

lunch,

the

of

the

Morteo's
of roast

same

excellent

side

safest
the

"

less

succulent

the

renown,

men

Ladies

di

Corso, nearly opposite the

Morteo's,

for

Italian
you

bore

Gaffe

new

of

of

table.

next

its iron

frequented by

moneyed
staif

sit

establishment.

luxurious
As

the

is

you

you

in

advocates

whole

the

at

"

and

the

at

seen

Gaffe

where

the

Rome

their

where

of

evening

be

Roma

Chianti, gently swaying

New

But

sipped

of

dining

may

and

dinner, and

to

as

even

garrison.

the

not

was

stockbrokers,

and

number

French

the

deputies, journalists,and

ministers,

stranieri"

they foregathered

Giovanni

fiascone

Mercenarii

hated

absinthe

their

"

the

had

they

which

at

vermouth

loathed

bitterlythan

more

SOUTH.

DUE

JOUKNEY

I
a

it

was

some.
tooth-

think, in
back

conducted,

the

entrance

through

English friend, who

knows

XIX.

ROMES

TWO

THE

(continued).

NEW"

THE

November

EOME,

ADMITTING

the

the

of

capital

resemblance
and

decreed

the

which,

when

in

such

We

London.
for

has

slums
That
who

for

vile

as

is

indulge

Superb,

than

of

gaps

may

as

in

any

the

not

St.

aware

at

and

years,

not

yet

Brussels.

the

built

over

of

its

makes

its

Victoria

which

of

shops,
and

To

one

metropolis

Street,

minster,
West-

unfinished

street

while

length

side

one

of

fringe

Giles's.

national

recreation
be

tinkering

the

handsome

mansions,

lofty

Eome

new

thoroughfare

New

country

portion

old

good
in

land

of

Lane,

magnificence

splendid

own

thirty

considerable

our

one's

been

have

more

exhibits

of

of

by

occupied

are

ashamed

indignantly

full

of

surprisingly

Leopold

Quartier

"

the

of

any

boulevards,

floors

ground

it

the

or

in

equal

of

curious

Birchin

masters

Nazionale,

will

completed,

Vienna,

at

the

Via

the

of

hears

with

amalgamated

prolonged,

Corso

thoroughfare

which

street

narrow

the

widening

main

the

as

Yard

Hanway

fully

remember

of

construction

boulevards

still

of

indefinitely

Eingstrasse

the

inadequacy,

Italy,
to

Cornhill,

"

the

confessing

and

of

impossibility

practical

30.

of

that

Ladies

custom.

shopping
one

in

side

Kegent
of

our

of

fashion

Street

the

Via
"

not

THE

little
for

"

but

Nazionale,

labyrinth
than

more

Naslionale"
slums

of

and

it has

allowing the

very

slums

grand

Oxford

boulevard

the

through

undisturbed
available

building

for

the

of

exception
remarkable

insisted

adopted
have

facades
Waterloo

of

the
Place

although

are

the

Nash, banished

be

into Clerkenwell

wilds

of

"via"

runs

fully
left cheer-

will be

become

has

with

"

buildings

any

the
more

in London
has

by

fronts
and

of

are

would

the

the

borne

duresse

in

uniform.

mind.

but

of warlike

times

to

scheme,

general result

handsome

of

The

Place

architectural

it

tecture
archi-

expediency

Langham

from
one

but

the

stucco, the
be

styleof

handsome
where

Nash

Septembre,

Quatre

been

their

Haussmann,

that

only

not

built

by

New

from

way

which

"

du

only repetitionsof

certainly harmonious,
that

Rue

authorities

the

uniformity
houses

driving

are

fail to .remark

Hall

their

street

one

system

towering gin-shops.

should

structural

such

and,

only

old

we

new

built their Boulevard

by

upon

Town

1'Opera, and

de

Avenue

this

of

ground

purposes

several

than

away.

told, in the

are

we

the

on

Holborn

the Parisians

When

We

and

and

slums, which

of

flourish, I

good

all the

Road

portion

noisome

most

the

to

indeed

end,

considerable

Hoxton.

Street

slums
to

after themselves,

Theobald's

is to

was

dead.

adherence

boulevard

new

Street

the

take

to

left there

Regent

will continue

am

to look

through

Street
this

was

after I

long

equally exemplary

of

and

business

noisome

very

been

of

comely shape

its congeners

and

little doubt,

With

into the

Swallow

old Great

when

nobody's

Street

Carnaby
have

been

it
have

They

indeed.

sixty years,

licked
architecturally

lias behind

"

24

NEW.

THE

HOMES"

TWO

for the
from

is
fact
the

248

had

his

in

promoted

to

realise the

be

conveniently erected

his

faQades

low

so

architraves, and
and

mean

the

the

shape

only

pius.

that
a

this

But

of

number

Quirinale, the

Piazza

Esquiline
has
Carlo

been

his

which

hotels

shore

of

by

Then

the

covered

Alberto, the

with
Via

new

been

there

Church
and

the

and

Santa

stately

Principe Umberto,

and

the

to
"

has

the

architectural

others

and

vast

The

Grand,

many

streets.

Via

the
"

entirely

whole

Maria

the

will

theatre.

nearly the
of

of ^Escula-

the

"

and

is the

Forum

which

only

built

But

Nazionale

Temple

been

Continental,

Independenza,

round

island

that

Corso.

Tiber

the

has

have

which

the

west

form

Roman

Via

the

means

Rome

New

that

stood

any

Costanza, the

dell'
Hill

the

to

modified

the

from

Trajan
the

to

the

runs

splendid

the

of

the

whereon

is not

in

when

leads

Piazza

distance

in

detour

hope,
to

and

strikes

walk

the

short

very

Forum

only

Nazionale

come,

simply astonishing.

new

truncate

Diocletian, and

there

is

minutes'

of which

new

of

the

to

it

Via

ship," and

improvement

is

and

the

bridge

within

it arrives

few

will

day

of

built

virtuallyfrom

Baths

nearly

before

of

and

the

of

prolonged right down

foot of

thus

Regent-street look

in

south-easterlydirection

unavoidable

it is then

be

in

Just

continuation

and

columns,

houses

starts

of

west

breadth,

and

Column.

unable

was

public buildings may

as

his

all his

ruins

colossal

becomes

dwarf

Nazionale

the

to

straight down,
length

Napoleon

imposing height, and

an

to

as

make

Via

dei Termini
from

of

monuments,

well

privateas

which

petty.

Roman

The

Kenaissance

Parisian

grand

that

idea

SOUTH.

architectural

the

contemplation of

DUE

JOURNEY

of

the

Maggiore
The

Via

Principe

THE

the

Eugenio,
leone

significanceof

is

Via

Napoleone

altered

an

numher

melancholy

of

state

which

rechristened, of

streets

THE

"

249

NEW.

Principessa Marglierita,and

Yia

there

yes,

"

HOMES

TWO

in

all

"

These
such

is

Via

with

speak

things.

there

the

eloquent
old

not

are

and

large

but

ex-Imperial Paris,

Napo-

hrand-new

thoroughfares.
I said

something just

it, bear

I take

The

cement."
which
and

is, to

coated

of

Romans

columns

"mattone"

bricks.

or

extremely

good,

realityingenious

stucco

of

way

the

bulk

is, it

of the

not

seemingly

stone

Is there

the

not

priceless

be

must

been

marbles

fronts,
slices

granted,

edifices

of

of

entirely

considerable

own,

surface

or

have

veracities

shams.

scagliata among

brickwork

their

thin

very

core

Roman

the

covering

"

revile

"

with

or

not,

nor

veneering of

inner

an

should

Nash,

buildings with

upon
The

but

the

preserved, and

of

their

of

artfully laid

stone,

of

memory

with

have

We

stucco.

least, remarkable

the

say

the

even

the

heavily on

too

scornfully facades

too

about

now

in

are

quantity

St.

Peter's

itself ?
The
Baths

streets

new

of

Titus.

extending
have

the

the

Basilica

the

to

the

Piazza

the

There
and

mean,

own

John

the

of the

size

thousand

Somerset

House

has

and

boasts

they
a

been

pleted
com-

of Finance.

lavishness

rooms,

rather

Maximus.

just

Ministry

are

They

or

Circus

the

and

Lateran.

menace,

Independenza

regards

eleven

are

our

as

of

site

truly magnificent edifice

Magnificent, I

Vatican,

dell'

St.

of

towards

Coliseum,

the

Hill, and

Palatine

encouragingly approach,
Close

neared

have

They

towards

invaded

stretching south-eastward

are

of

ration.
deco-

say, in

the

tolerablylarge

250

JOURNEY

number

of

Office

Parisians

the

in

way

the

New

Lake

Salt

it will

finished

and

Yes

the

immeasurable

does
In

the

very

effect is

still

"

Les

Pilules

produced

in

So, from

windows.
the

heads

Ministerio
the

delle

popular
du
which

scene

asylum,

lunatic

strait-waistcoated
their

of what

out

the

half-lengthsof

derisivelyshaking bags

of

Porte

used

clerks

named.

the

of

minable
inter-

majesty

of

conscientiously

looks

St.

Diable,"

so

large

as

Martin

panto-

very

startling

represents the
all

by

appear

seemingly

Finanze,

sombre

the

nightcapped,

white

and

These

engravings

terraces,
in

it is

Eome.

at

but

many-storeyed

popping

Finances

when

just

mezzotint

building that

nacle
Taber-

but

paint, but

to

in

edifice, it is true,

structures

which,

old

mime-spectac,le,

Mormon

new

boundless

loved

beheld

never

Ministry of

that

old

some

colonnades

Martin

chiaroscuro, John
that

colossal

is

Francisco

big thing indeed.

very

palaces, the

Babylonian

declare

have

home

at

and

bigger things

last-named

.the

upon

of Justice

granite basement

its

assuredly be

gazed

have

eyes

congratulation
justifiable

Hotel, San

the

and

The

City.

only just rising above

is

with

three

Palace

the

City Hall, Chicago

wiiilc

pile ;

Continent, Civilisation

produce

to

than

of architecture

at

American

the

of

Foreign

new

rapidlyprogressing

Palace

completed

challenged

triumphantly
the

point

all but

our

extensive

Bruxellois

West

Far

the

somewhat

of their

their

to

small;

pardonably proud

Ville ; the

de

Hotel

new

are

be

to

and

great

apartments,

considered

is

SOUTH.

DUE

to

mad

be

specie in the

people,

hundreds
casements

fancy that

in the

of

simultaneously

innumerable
I to

exterior

Italian

Civil

faces

of the

saw

of
of
truded
pro-

Service,
Public.

great

deal

ROMES

TWO

THE

derisively.Travertine, tufa, pozzolana, bricks,

too

iron, timber, and

so

this

fiscal

astounding

forth

extensively employed
papier mache

dimensions

enough
More

to

of
to

the

hold

Ministry
debts

these

the

From

job.

accumulated

hole-and-corner

and

unscrupulous
of

Well,

the

bricks

the

the

in

and

mansard

The

money.

brown

On

the

the

rocking chairs,
cost
not

during
dwell.

had

on

edifice

reign

New

Rome

one

so

many

intrigues

which

needy
the

at

show

do

millions

marble

with

spittoons at
of the
"

dollars
the

virtuous

if the

Romans

business

these
of

which

Boss"
are

of

fingering public
imposing
"

Thieves*

the

City Hall,
"

of

facades

enriched

christened

of

series

you

with

by suddenly
to

environs

agreeable

houses,

stone

tures
stric-

grand-looking public

the

critics have

many

the

as

enriched

expressivealbeit inelegantterm

and

Italy.

preciselyidentical
very

In

something

American

b"

structures

Row."

have

large

United

of

been

hear

States.

roofs, inhabited

who

men,

half

not

occult

many

pleasant city of Philadelphia they

palatialmansions,

the

are

nation.

unfrequently

United

been

roof, they declare,

means

have

adventurers

as

represent

so

most

themselves

of

the

to

and

passed by practicalcritics
works

has

entire

speculations by

not

you

here

it is

kingdom

concessions,"

overtaxed

an

the

foundations

"

and

and

expense

of

stones

contracts

corrupt

been

Romans

of Finance,

denounce

practical critics

Titanic

has

jestingly that, gigantic

say

the

which

The

of

help thinking

materials

pierre.

carton

construction

cannot

substance

building

as

or

accustomed

are

yet I

barrack,

the

into

enter

may

that, figuratively
speaking, the

either

251

NEW.

THE

"

carpets,

New

Tweed,

to be trusted

York,
I need
"

has

252

been

to

York

was

Yes

DUE

as

audaciously

extent

some

in the

; the

Mr.

of Finance

Ministry

of United

John

cession

in
8

daddies,"
The

year,

and

or

the

silver

will

when

of the

it

in

doubtful

had

at

was

are

of

rency
cur-

been

not

of

; but

years

at

nearly on

very

cash

payments,

"

money,"

consoled

discount

subsequent
notes

with

paper

money"

the

on

safer

the

or

The

or

dollars

Greek

the

still

and

shopkeepers give

on

notes

of

for

they clutch

premium

at

piece

of

begin
that

assume

things stand
banker

at

at

"

all.

gold when

the

present,

only

marengo"

your

and

The

to

gold

on

give'syou

twenty-franc piece

no

you

the

last you

to

culation
cir-

month,

next

reappearance

sovereigns or

your

name

As

Kalends.
for

side

at

in

paper

week,

next

their

positively make

premium
popular

bullion

next, until

after

be

sous

which

inconvertible

of

the

in

war

subsequently

resumption

by

year

few

with

the

out

the

City

Italy

gathered

ere

paper

The

in

was

simply exasperating.

change gold

you

the

redeemed

be

it would

occurrence

lower

"

of

and

literalness

the

"rag

call "honest

is

that

think

the

of

were

The

mache

fortable
uncom-

is imminent.

statement
is to

next

when

the

that

Americans

the

our

Italians

much

told that

are

gold, and

with

what

of Venice,

breaking

Lissa, but

and

It sank

cent.

present you
par

the

an

unpleasant

that

eight-and-fortyhours

existence
per

the

bear

to

vision

happened

first introduced.

was

with

New

as

Ring.

papier

remarkable

to

which

of Custozza

the

by

just prior

from

Austria,
laurels

It

Tammany

of

palace

"financiered"

continues

Italy still realises

Paper."

1866,

year

to

Hollingshead's

Unlimited

of the

halcyon days

resemblance
whole

SOUTH.

JOURNEY

the

"

hotel

greediness

it is tendered

XX.

THE

SEASON.

ROMAN

ROME,
"

in

You

earnest,"

right

Piazza

di

which

of

period
hotel

to

weeks

proprietors

and

and

English
of

family

American

ladies,

young

of

so

is

the

after

in

simpler
?

"

"

or

of

compositions

Hold

tunes

of

the

Fort."

in

Rome
of

furnished

each

and

"

and

"Will

you

so

many

there
ment
instru-

and

again,

temporarily

with

concerto

whose

damsels

whose

Schubert

more

hotels

now

agile
and

come

fingers

Gounod,
to

the

tion
reten-

which

on

of

or

of

Bergamo,

company

joys

the

hiring

when,
of

the

two

first-class

save

for

down

conclusions

the

Roman

apartments,

group

the

pianos

those

settling

Transatlantic

are

the

the

of
of

Now,

arrival

the

beginning

numbers

drawing-room,

catholic,

are

hymn

all

in

obliges
"

the

of

Sfracellorecchi

hotel,

tastes

the

salons,

performers

Maestro
the

by

2.

habitue

veteran

foregone

ladies'

table-d'hote

the

now

river

the

"

and
in

as

that

true

principal

harmonic

the

in

Cavaliere

staying

is

It

pianoforte
the

almost

private

many

pianofortes.

letters

including

infers

large contingent

families,

forestieri,

me

the

of

is

season

hotels."

means

ten

least

at

to

the

to

called

so

Koman

Pincian,

in

moving

see

properly

season

the

and

the

said

recently

Spagna

you

when

tell

always

can

December

and

pret,
inter-

now

beautiful

But

the

to what

has

heen

the

Americans

in the

best

London
now,

are

French

the

from

Eoman

December

and

for at

open
the

scales

"

of fresh

other

everywhere

sound

when

in

hours

the

of

Sullivan

the

voices

hotel;

hear

the

Philistinism, it

may

be

daylight,
carolling
Clay.

indigenous

extremely beautiful

singing

be

in

window

Frederic
to the

to be

where

of

"

scales

your

hours

Mr.

to

seem

hinted,

twenty-four,you

most

"

days, even

keep

and

me

"

of time

playing out

to

seems

If I

Eoman

Anglo-Saxon

young

there

engaged

"

few

are

cannot

you

Italy itself

in

save

pianoforte-

cityin Europe

that

reason

Philistine,I preferthese harmonies

Italian vocalism

ones.

their

privaterooms

city there

Arthur

Sir

lyrics of

Being

is for the

frequentlyduring

very

nothing

say

eight

least

which

partly from

always excepted.

unfamiliar

January,

of

in any

course,

this winter

in

and

exhibiting

than

practice,"it
means

no

as

hotels

Paris, of
"

life "

Hotel

Grand

be, their practice in public ; and

it may

at

by

indeed,

and

partly from
shrink

and

just

the

"

tomed
yet scarcelyaccus-

as

are

consequently,a greater number

are,

to

who

he called that

may

borrowed

playing, or,

"

families

English

255

SEASON.

ROMAN

THE

of

out

rule rather

tune

than

the

exception.
addition

In

led
ago,

to

me

to

dining with

were

less than

no

least, was
dinner
were

Adelina

this

adopt

what

unanimous
Patti

friend

hostess

voices
in

was

at

five retired
my

; all their

conclusion.

were

pensione

remember,
in

prime donne
told

me.

their

shockingly

assolute

They

opinion

overrated

some

there

such,

"

all sang

at

after

; and

that

has
years

Milan, where

hopelessly cracked

expressing
a

prejudicewhich

they

Madame

artiste.

It
R

is

256

JOURNEY

curiously instructive
Borne

is

instrumental,
to

you,

performers

more

distinguish

baritone, the shrill and

frenzied

the

subdued
as

when

instructor

she

are

"

grands

hotels,

begin

day."

There

are

as

of

cost

the
to

to

arouse

each

himself
chian.

devote

the

German

the Frenchman,
notes

timid

and

entreat

her

her

to open

and

excited

mouth

by

necessity for
hotel

Roman
The

stranger

his

in

own

being Pomeranian,
The
the

for

by

so

"

"

of

the

the

opening

sake, quite
additional

families."

Scandinavian,

night

of

that

"

There

always ready

be

Germans

season

with

or

to

assurances

well-

of

words

ten

of

who

forestieri

the

as

and

literates

for their

much

tongue

the

are

arrival

to

Art

foreign sojourner in

they

Ollendorff, and

the

pianofortes,that

waiters, whether
stillness

warehouses

is their

now

upright

usuallya polyglot individual, and

is

porter

music

It is often

knowing

"

storeys thereof.

the

any

having

season

usually

"

letters ; and

is incurred

privateroom

Roman

pianos

themselves,

of the

for

of

topmost

that

as

managed

to

the

letters

is, ostensibly,no

Italian.

different

clear,bird-like

floors of the

ground

even

are

of the

migration

Italian.

of

English girl,who,

signs

professorsof

much

the

of

tender, but

melodious,

young

other

hopefully

most

the

"

obstinatelydeclines

may,

the

from

"

letters

are

of the

many

besides

begun

nationalities

Italian, the

the

around

casements

many

and

sings.

There

the

and

warbling

her

the

at

sounds, vocal

brumbrum

"

window

your

slightlynasal trillingof

shrieking of

American,

of the

when

tuneful
so

the

profound

the

less

or

issuing from

are

to

try

SOUTH.

exercise, however,

and

open,

DUE

the

talks

porter

Moldo-Wallaor

the

Italians,

study
in

of

Ollen-

THE

"dorffian
be

English

followed

The

valets de
of

pages

in

traveller

to

the

or

the

about

thirtyper

liave

purchased.

Times.
and

"

generallyimbued

are

that

their

wishes

place
know

to

Fanfulla

read
needs

all he

in

is

the

spoken

druggists,and

bad

English

the

but

in

forestieri
;
few

garbled

without

cost

of

who

encamp

"

families

intelligent

English, too,

enjoyed

the

to

find

Hare's

valet de

cannot

Good

is seldom

cent,

the

Moreover,
season

will

privilegeof hearing

language

own

your

he

shops patronised by
the

instance

of

the

tribe,and

the

enable

services

cutlet.

Augustus

travelling Briton

principalchemists

other

Mr.

city itself,and

Italian

of the

the

Fracassa,

Capitan

the

at

with

in the

on

of

happily

if the

broiled

their

of

jargon
or

fried sole will

of the

potatoes of the

now

dispense

going

columns

butter

place speak the

altogether; while,
is

melted

mashed

Eome,"

257

SEASON.

Murray's handbook,

"Walks

what

the

that
the

by

KOMAN

with

stay should

the

vague

not

be

the

last

sentences

in

the

addition
which

articles

in
but

in

Kome

you

for

wholesome

destitute

of

of

the
pression
im-

slight

educational

character, for the benefit,at least,of the younger

branches.

The

and

long

shops

to be

in the

picturesque

in

the

Campo

morning,
'

Tombe
course

may

able to chaffer

for

bye-streetsor

of

through

ladies

young

rubbish

di

or

dei

to

Papi

of Italian

be
"

or

able
in

the

They

great

the

to

wish

an

read

original.

lessons, and

at

"

every

may

in

so

the

for

taste

bargains in

presented

Fiori.

paragraph

at

have

the

omnium

old

to

be

curiosity

gatherum

Wednesday

Italian

"

morning

able

to

newspaper

Professor
So

bric-a-brac,

spell
every

Gregorovius'

they must

beginning of

needs
the

take

season

258

the

hearts

Bologna,

of

Dottore

within

them

within

and

much

the

through

arrival

the
"

of the

breakfast

at

voice

"

be

may

Italiano

so

in bocca

of "ham
I

and

would

Inglese"

that

their

fair

ask

than

wearisome

devote

to male

after

in

And

to

somewhat

grow

and

restaurant,
how

they

Instruction,
derived
them

from
when

not

such
you

students

parola
Macina-

which

after

week,

arrives

take

cook

to

notes

it, and

unmingled

"

have

no

Italian

leaving

the

breakfast

and

much

is

how

wherein

to

is

"

at

Romans

order

you
your

really

charged

are

apt,

most

dine

astonishment,
But

as

Roman

and

the

investigations.

have

not

for

and

pleasant

with

jugation
con-

Table-d'hote

of Italian.

of what

how

want

applies quite

monotonous

is

more

to the

will

they

time

"

they

certainlythe pleasantest in Europe

native
"

things

observation

respects very

therefrom

eat

lingua

families

the

which
the

this

agreeable change

do

of

tithe when

many

are

time,

"

among

hours, week

to female

as

life,although
tables-d'hote

ear

instead

Dottore

and

for the

irregular verbs,

altogether.

much

pupils

Italian

in

mastered, perhaps,
Rome

Nasomuifa

Professore

assiduously to

of

"

the

by

presciutto

con

ove

waiter

faltering

"

"

for

the

fortnight your

inquiriesmade

to catch

as

anbther

in

after the

days

nervous,

very

most

eggs."

taught

to

and

Cameriere,"

fortunate

in

often

"

hotels

hear

to

full

rattling

roofs

ten

or

quite

the

to

way

expect

may

you

their

week

"

families

omnibuses

on

their

on

forestieri. In

addressed

as

"

streets

piled

of

University

Velletri, leap high

of

hotel

the

behold

baggage

stony

frequented by

Macinaparola,

they

as

the

of

Nasomuifa,

Professore

and

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

for it.

may

be

to make

dinner

THE

or

breakfast, and

your

to be

meal

served

Unless

to

and

fear, be of much
those
a

and

look

the

to

dishes

your

in

The

equivalents,one

by

one.

tried to

an

Athenian

Eomaic

bring

for beefsteak
"

him

servitor

from

Greek

in Greek

portion of
of

study

an

With

be

view

who

months
And

only

can

to

the

exception
the

the

the
or

climate

sunny

of the
the

the

year,

desire

small

are

which
an

general amenity

of

that
M

the
The

P.
"

trizola."

and

the

of

have

the

American

of

modern

the

"

and

even

five

Roman

Anglo-

just

to Rome

new

gives you,

average

The

majority whom

City

an

the

scingere

exchange

asperityof

face of the

music

section

Eternal

to

"

to

comparatively

practice of

of

out

waiter

and

devote

Protestant

to

come

in

biphteki "or

sight-seeingif they

"

winter

mild, balmy,

week.

time

the

old Romans

English

worst

their

"

who

perplexity.

two. letters

distractinglyirregular verbs

tourists

they

for

as

the

are

Italian

Don

the

the

on

that

unaware

asked

presently mention,

objectsin
if

the

uscire."

Saxon

ristorante,

their

desired

and

pronounced

our

have

he

expression

was

sure,

carefully looked

amazement

families," however,

The

short

is
for

should

gentleman

shall

alphabet

subsitute

"

England

when

the

blank

of

one

was

with

English

restaurant

"

the

to

you

be

to

may,

English University

; but

mpiphteki

gentleman

"

at

You

faith to

their

They pin

you.

not, I

will

Macinaparola

excellent

vocabulary with

conversational

dine

the

wish

you

self-teaching, the

of

system

some

assistance

out

how

waiter

exasperating irregular verbs.

take

the

the

Nasomuffa

worthy

259

SEASON.

instruct

resort

you

AN

BOM

two

; whilst

horrors
for

one

in the

very

bright days
winter

of

is the

260

chief
Tiber.
find

The

refugees from

English
from

escaped
Christmas

do

in Pall

you

is

metamorphosed

Colonna

into

Thus

frequent still ;

the

stately British

may

driving along

the

crowded

"meets;

Spagna,

the

abundance

season

del

Popolo
Piazza

Way

the

in

; the

shopkeepers
Via

del

When

of the

spirit merchant
end

one

mild
are

Rome
who

in Rome

wares

climate
a

very

the

about

are

of the

and

to

the

and

the

be

Peninsula

found
to

class

from

drive

only

in
the

baker,

one

and

astonishing
other.

society-lovingpatrons

different

Via

commodities;

biscuit

grocer,

di

Piazza

condiments,

was

such

or

draw

haberdashery,
first there

Du

Forum

Babuino, and

dispensed

British

the

Hounds

English pickles,sauces,

I knew

Sunday
of

Roman

more

places of

every

maidens

and

hotels;

Protestant

trooping through

met

and

graceful

the

receptions

fashionable

and

Sistina, the

from
the

Spagna

the

at

rooms

the

at

more

Appian

deal

present the

Roman

and

he

tradesman

and

di

exceedingly,

nocturnal

beer, biscuits, stationery,and

English

Piazza

Corner, and

private

congregations

"

Via

roaring trade.

But

the

matrons

type

bottled

meet

; you

the Piazza

flourishes

frequent ;

are

fuller

Frattina, who

tea"
for

use

grow

Maurier

Park

Mile

from

resemhle

to

comes

and

damp,

; and

choking

Street, the

Hyde

and

themselves, have

Ladies'

Condotti

o'clock

parties

worship

and

Corso

the

Bond

or

into

suggests another

wine

the Via

like

of the

Trafalgar Square.

"five

dinner

the

Pincian

Mall

as

at

the

people in

same

shivering

Easter

to

and

Regent Street,
the

of

fog, darkness

who,

friends

regions

almost

and

hanks

the

societyon

frost

American

or

SOUTH.

Anglo-Saxon

of

promoter

DUE

JOURNEY

the

of the

sightseer,

262

Neapolis

of

ture

resembles

The

costume

but

it has

Via

the

the

Vatican

is

frequented

artistic

for the
with

bronze

of the

mosaic

work,
than

more

margin
in

they

such

of

Home

at

thing
every-

is worth

could

rooms

I have

photographed,

all

be

found

for

in

houses

new

thousand

eleven

be

of

so

of

prints

thousands

many

pictures,and

sense

sale

houses

grows

every

these

of

of

shawl

Roman

hundred

gain

is

The

and

fa9ades at
at the

when

shop

same

in

the
to

seems

however,

Romans,

photograph selling is extremely

of

brightly-dyed silk,a

Triumphal Augustus,
cannot,

other

every

photographs.
that

; but

little wearied

embellish

to

marble

with

Francisco

Home

of

streets

going

statues

Hill," San

justice plead

profitable.

But

ever,

as

quarter of Macao

said to be

think

to

Nobs'

"

on

most

may

naught.

are

ruins, churches, palaces, aqueducts, obelisks,

"

the

one

churches

staringbrand

new

are

is vast, but

deplorablyragged

as

Palace

Koyal

Carlo

San

of the

the

apartments of brown-stone
or

the

huge

stanza.

time

be

of

customers

pleasant

Chicago

the

picturesque.

and, could

fountains, tombs,
the

is

the

There

every

photographs

be

and

that

loggia and

exteriors

exception

SOUTH.

fa$ade of

people
to

Nazionale

little doubt

It

the

ceased

photographing.
in

; the

and

DUE

uninteresting;

of the

with
the

is

barrack

imposing

not

JOUKNEY

should

and

say,

fiftyper

astonishing profusion

are

sold
But

cent.

presented by

jewelleryand

Roman

be

the

at

profit of

much

photographs,

vended

Roman

to

the

wider
which

flying

sightseers.
And

the

Sedentary

soberly, gravely
"

not

ones?

They

sadly, but

take

still

their

sight-seeing

slightlyeducationally

from

the
"

make

classical

Bacon

as

and

Imperial

on

and

"

the

Rome

the

of

look

They

Old

of

the

villa where

dress

of

flannel

"

stomacher, and

They

read

their

Gaston

works

their

up

wrestle

of German

with

They

have

inscriptionsfiftytimes
is

tired

never

the

of

able, some

have

taste

over

no

to mention

fray,well

; but

before

Old.

revisitingthe

for

and

sittingup

real

He

is

edifying studies,

be made.

speak

"

Classical
can

be

thighs."
a

Rome,"

; and

then

strengthened

to

the

till two

in

there

"

are

Roman

organised.

The

news

antiquary

always nourishing
combined,

New.
the
at

For

those

morning
six

a.m.

experiments

picnics antiquarian camp

"

the

deciphered

fortune

good

discover

to

the

archaeologyor history,or getting up

those

Romaine

ruins, trailed the ways,

day,

and

shirt, a

dusty past.

hope that, by patience

shall be

legs

winter

Archaoologiques,"and

numerous

for the

and

the

seen

too

armed

dead

Histoire

Promenades

"

sages

well

the

"

Ampere's

tunics,

his

swathings upon

Boissier's

they sallyforth

toga, four

thick

"

Augustus

site of

of the

details

of

refreshed

memories

the

gravings
en-

douche

Messalina, the

of

died, and

Rossini

their

morning

and

note

selves.
sights them-

the

with

Gardens

Nero

with

and

take

emerge

Caesars

Sedentary sightseers

Piranesi

They

the

of

subject

Phaon's

the

Rome.

consort,'*

of the

Rome

re-see

or

in

Republican,

on

themselves

see

their

up

Tranquillus, and

Soubriad
on

to

the

The

load

they proceed

before

experiments

on

"

Popes.

and

systematically prime
rubric

Rome

Mediaeval

They

view.

of

Sylva Sylvarum,"

"

the

"

and

solitary

it in

puts

archaeologicalpoint

and

experiments

263

SEASON.

HOMAN

THE

to

who

poring
pursue
"

in consort

meetings,

flies like wildfire

he

so

to
to

round

264

the

hotel

that

situ

is about

of

customs,
is

pleasant

so

pains

exposition
bored

never

Coliseum
the

or

rapt

ears

tales of the
and

ruin

by

of

they
that

Rome

the

another

class

Triumphalis,

the

precise

so-called
of

the

of the

Temple

exact

Forum

been

at

of Martino
an

their

or

him

the

and

is

the

at

sant
plea-

more

which

of

Capitol,in

the

of the

arena

while

he

with

the

long

result

thus

holds

fairy
of

Andrea

who

the

might

be

Athens,

for

what

da

del Sarto

the

seeking

are

Udine

of the

Pantheon

or

Pierino
in

one

consort,"

inquiry. They
of the

Metae

of the

Palace

Vesta

of

of

identification

conformation

in

deriving equal

are

branch

different

of the

rotunda

pursuing their

"experiments

amateurs

of the

picture-hunters. They

of

of

distribution

Lysicrates,

heard

has

bajocchi about

Via

real purpose

been

like

gentlemen gather

and

willinglylend

and

wholly

two

care

It

who

place

very

perambulatory sightseersare

from
gratification
not

and

v^-1

"

is

It

Septimus Severus,

once

"experiments solitary

do

the

decay.

While

there

so

lecture

raptures.

of Diocletian, in the

Arch

which

of ladies
in

expositor

the

and

smiling, interested, patient, and

the Baths

or

the

speare
Shake-

manners

having

yourself.
in

Mr.

those

to

"

without

for

bands

yawning

or

Pantheon

the

So

"

in

are

lecture

is delivered

treats.

learned

the

round

to

ladies

something

lecture

the

as

antiquities,the

acquiring knowledge

of

when
the

learn

such

party round

The

listen

to

You

lectures.

take

"to

Rome.

ancient

SOUTH.

Englishman,

history, the

the

on

DUE

erudite

some

Wood,
in

JOURNEY

Sudans,

The

Agrippa.

Choragic

Monument

They

they

care.

after

little-known

Vaga.

of those

the

Caesars, or

of

del

true

They

sacred

are

amples
ex-

have

edifices

THE

"

known

as

the

votive

the

Church

they
to

seeking

are

centisimi,

for the

show

to

rumoured

Little
the

the

need

world,

said

be

chiesa

Giovanni

there

whatever.

So

year.

qualunque,"

hints

whispered

reputed

of lire and
del

Cimabue,

Sarto,

the

ported
re-

Bellini, which
Still the

and

which

it is the

the

they

to

parties

City

very

is

quest

to

You

do
"

the

deal

Roman

of inner

sightseers and

Mayfair
so

into

the

and

St. Paul

not

see

not

the

their

have

life

to

keepers
shop-

Corso

look

like

of them

at

not

and

meet

dinner

alberghi,their

own

And

they

see

inevitablyinvisible

who

to

do

teas

pursuits.

Spagna,

simply

Shrine

"

You

utterlyand

di

Piazza

but

much

o'clock

five

at

the societarians

the

make

parts of

season,

benefit

families."

objects and

own

of

shawl-weavers,

St. Peter

receptions. They

or

vast

or

sights,not

and

extent

great

any

society,their

the

out

all

languages,the jewellersand picture-

Pilgrims.

are

own

weeks

of

frequented by

hotels

them

see

of

and

season

mosaic-workers

dealers, the
because

to

the masters

Catholics, who, from

in

Rome,

to

come

the

of

study antiquities,not

of

"

once

exciting one.

an

to

only

open
of the

the

existence

no

is

which, like

popular, or

very

another,

or

supposititiousAndrea

the

Mantegna,

possibly has

not

church

some

"

snuffy janitor,with

them

Bamboccio,

"

custode

and

aged

that

is

Bibiana,

of Santa

26 5

SEASON.

qualunque

of which

saint

tempt

the

chiesa

ROMAN

bring
and

the

mannei

during

twelve

squeezed-up

copy

of

Piccadilly.
There

only

remains

Saxon

visitors

whose

existence

the

to

have

to

be

Eternal

noticed

City

in
the

already glanced.

the

way

small

They

of

Anglo-

minority
come

at

with

206

tolerable

frequency
month

stay there

longer habitable

Were

interlocutor

embarrassing
the
be

give

puzzled

to

have

been

they

here

drinkable, life is
well

people are

turns

Umberto

as

hat?

given, just

as

there

fuss, you

no

"

"these,

in

places

or

any

arise

they

without

without

what
;

so

the

like ;

you

something
crime

in

resort

the

people

who

and

purpose

main
re-

in

matters

upon

be

why "may

by

so

Majesty King

reasons

mind,

is

fashionable

particular views

any

were

morning,

his

not

of

an

sleep

accounted

ascertained

any

such

water

cheap

so

is not

other
the

to

do

can

does

please

you

the

early in

; idleness

day

even

Rome

to

come

"

is

searching

bored, you

never

so

up

like

suits them

place

before, the

speak Italian,is

can

appear

"pot"

get

can

is

the

no

they might, perhaps,

The

times

it

of old, what

Athenians

answer.

they

they

Sophroniscus

of Rome,

one

easy,

every

dress

can

you

up

love

many

civil,there

so

existence, if you
fresh

so

so

night, you

at

the

definite

of

because

with

them,

son

to

for their

reasons

grave

the

made

which

directness

ask

to

you

; and

renders

heat

the

until

English people, simply

to

in Rome.

being

month

after

it is Rome

because

Kome,

to

OUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

general.
Such
of

son

Sophroniscus
and

understand

once

it

explanations might

given.

was

you
all

can

to the

pursuits, the

during

the

in

"

the

very

dolce

fullest

labour

who

are

most

too

Italian

is the

time
in that

niente

greater part of the

the

exigent

would

explanation,however

winter

far

satisfied

quick-witted

accept the

Rome

indulge

but

have

not

year

"

and

work

addicted

to

most

at

lamely

place

where

charming

it is those
harder

coming

than
to

of

who
horses
cart-

Rome

when

they

for

good

son,

short

few

that

on

he

snatch

can

by
his

would

but

delicious

India

weeks,
Lamb,

Charles

which

House

christen

in

holiday,

pension,
him

267

SEASON.

ROMAN

THE

"

Nothing

order,

to

practically,
their

exchange
he

when

to

Do."

if

for

names

home

came

that,

declared

and

he

for

had

XXI.

IN

VATICAN.

THE

December

ROME,

been

HAD

began
evil

be

to

odour

but

with

Romanum

of

Constantine

to

the

the

slightest

nor

had

of

catalogue
from

Rome

with

the

Coliseum

but

in

which

of

there

the

safe

Francis

Wey's
work
and

has

that

life

is
"

home,

at

"

small,

when
of

you
the

had

Forum

that

Arch
add

went

without

and

this,

than

fewer

even

arrived

at

plored
ex-

palaces

and
have
ancient

and

Guhl

large

and

brief, and

Murray
Kohner's
stock

mediaeval

of

period
may

sight-seeing.

for

enough
your

possess

certain

be

it must

long

not

you

Rome,"

acquaintance

my

worse

"

minute

next

When,

large

of

my

galleries.
one

when

remainder

life, the

end

that

of

voluntarily

may

visited

into

the

touching

Caracalla,

of

and

the

revisit

renewing

Even

churches,

week

entire

by avowing

Baths

picture

were

is

omission

without

the

Titus.

Catacombs.

few

very

truth

The

and

the

in

foot

of

sins

altogether

away

setting

of

esteemed

inquiries

it

fallen

had

an

to

when

City

most

of

course

any

Baths

my

and

inclination

made

the

or

the

In

that

me

oldest

the

of

some

friends.

shown

to

apparent

Eternal

the

in

days

few

very

mournfully

Anglo-Koman
not

5.

and

vast

your
quarian
anti-

photographs,
monuments

of

270

placed

been

for

full

ftox
cubes

safety in

of

"

and

The
the

hefore
been

This

It

of

naturallyrecurred
with

employed

processes

Leo

mosaic

in

neglect of
trap for

the

ilaming vermilion

"surmounting
"contained

baited
seal

My

College.

had

bearing

to

very
a

permits

rarelygranted, and

and

the

in the

; but

is

envelope
effigyof

one

his

were,

the
I

I should

sight not only interestingbut unique.

Holiness'

and

aesthetic

dudgeon
laid

adorned

be

with

hat

envelope

Mosaic

given

my

kindly

cardinal's

Eminences

was

least

at

The

Pontifical
of

Vatican.

here

such

in

various
"

scutcheon.
the

of

picture-building

sightseeing,had
an

Mosque

since I found

antiquarian

taken

it with

of admission

Such

"

of Mosaics

good

of

day

glass had

curiositythe

discrowned

courteously granted by
Sacred

had

believe,a digression.

term

profuselyemblazoned

card

in the

truly regal quarters

ordinary round
and

me,

only

coloured

mornings

and

may

be

friends, who

Anglo-Roman

few

interest

Manufactory

factory installed.

reign of Justinian,

to

you
a

covered
dis-

gum-arabic, by

alike

work

mosaic

when

may

vitreous

my

old.

entreat

in what

XIII.
and

King,

the

me

much

in the

years

eager

Pontifical

Royal

Elsewhere
is

to

of

little bit of

cement

hundred

cardboard

druggist'sin Piccadillythe

the

is not, I would

myself watching

he

at

of

once

discomfiture, I

to my

very

had

this

opened

little cube

so

apologue touching

Sophia

in the

out

whereas

fourteen

some

when,

"

were

gum

laid in its bed

was

St.

cubes

yesterday ;

hue

taken

bit of

box, which

proudly exhibiting one

was

I had

that

hought

SOUTH.

cardboard

little

yellow in

dull

mistake.

DUE

gum-arabic jujubes.

day,

one

JOURNEY

factory,
Manuof the

to

stand,
under-

privilegedto

see

IN

It took
mind

much

so

of

visit the

to

was

however,

me,

being astonished

for

example.

the

rules

old

and

to

the

of

of

and
At

their

the

United

Postal

singleletter

occupies an

immense

approached

with

from

facade

that

are

convent

garden in

fountain
cloisters

which

so

by

such

the

old

wondrous
the

state, and

the

cascading

in

national
the Inter-

into

the

reduced
and

in

Via

Office

Post

Roman

new

monastery

Piazza

dei Convertiti.

architechtonically splendid

old clothes

clothes

of

for

Time?
In

masters.

in the

and

"

of

"

left

pleasantlyfresh

cortile have

new

the

has been

silvery spray

surrounding the

entered

"

"

quadrangle
looks

centimes.

fifteen

twopence-farthing

or

the

made

The

times,
cenfifty-five

was

franc

have

; and

for passing off

facility

Italians

its former

Cor

been

has

buildings but

are

England

disestablished

the

safety,addressed

of

respectable hotel.

one

twenty-five centimes,
a

recommend

gravely to

reasons

some

to

the

stupidityof

and

of
enjoy the privileges

Convention

edifice,

down

phering
they experienced in deci-

used

States

countries

fraction,for

The

of

Eome

from

present all the

tariff of

or

Office,

Post

new

sense

antiquated as

ignorance

for
letters,

letter

to

the

in the

tumble-

as

were

Murray

banker

gloomy,

which

to

the

my

There

made.

admire

use

Take

which
difficulty

names,

to have

care

postage

owing

the

English
readers

was

one

makeup

to

mosaics
I

"

Eome.

in New

time

the

see

to admire

regulationsof

and

and
officials,

his

and

and

"

The

building itself ;
the

considerable

Vatican

view

to

271

VATICAN.

THE

what
the

which

interior the

old

pretty much

in

and

middle

undergone

with

green,

an

; but

the

astounding

transformation.
No

more

venerable

friars with

shaven

crowns

and

cowls
s

and

272

sandalled
ascetic

the

or

book.

good

peacefullypacing

meditation,

Saints

arcades

In

Thomas

St.

of

the

to

now

vociferations

and

shrill trebles

sent

the

authoritative

ulsters

and

addressed

the
a

to

doose

"

does

the

letter

the

at

not

window

the

his

shaking
inscribed

the

"

The
Office

Monsieur

"

laissez

till

mean?"

addressed
over

which
in

fist and

then

in

letter

front

painted

like

he

The

Central

Post

"

restante

arrangements
and

is

provided

There

post-cards,and
Telegraph

Office ; and
with

is another

explain

that

should

the

"

if he

ask

for

S," and

Briton

is

now

which

over

is.

"P."

simply admirable,

and

vainly

to

letter

in the

equally so

new

the

franking

books

Office is in the

room

in which

comfortable

apartment

same

you

chairs

equally

Post

buying postageand

newspapers.

buildingwith

write
and

Eoman

the facilities for

are

registeringletters, obtaining money-orders,

stamps

What

"

been

Briton

lion, and

plaid

Smith,

for

has

the

which

of

in

John

French,

Smith

Signor
is

raging

and

"fellow," otherwise

The

and

to

the

; to

after letters-

called

ultimately exasperated

casement

poste

are

contadine

orders
post-office

Smith

first in Italian

and

stern

requires a
it at

letter-carriers,

boisterous

intelligentpost-officeemploye,

endeavouring,
the

Giovanni

fellow

solemn

once

Britons,
'.travelling

of

Kestante,

other

purchase postage stamps,

to

tones

Signor

Poste

civil and

to

of

in

the

of

some

or

the

men

of

Acts

Glengarry bonnets, sternlyinquiring

know,

you

the

of hurried

laughter

payment

of urchins

holy

tramping

clamorously demanding

to

flags,and rapt

Aquinas,

these

place of

the

marble

the

tranquilly perusing

or

works

re-echo

the

to

feet

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

your

an

comfortable

the

telegrams

ample
for

table.

persons

who

wish

and

then.

letters and

write

to

There

is,

unvarying civilityand
the

they,
volumes

smoke

"

should

that

well

as

building
and

painted
of

the

with

with

Rudolph

Royal Exchange.

But

the

of

achievements
The

monastery.

chiefly by

his

evidently been
modern

the
there

But

the

the

in

pupils

You

of

the

illustrious

Sanzio

Loggie

"

the

new

cloisters

in

caprice

of Urbino

has

have
the

by

little

curious
subtle

with

or

marks

Vatican,

the

with

our

executed

and

imitation

for

in

transformed

the

the

Mr.

ago

design

Rafaelle

of

somewhat

years

of

painter

Loggie

in

of the

quadrangle

exuberance

familiar

are

in the

reminding' you

selected

models

either

in the

arches

of

with.

for

nearly forty

fresco

information, I

luxuriantlyand cheerfully

are

arcades

which,

in

battling with
drawn

the

ceivable
con-

windows, looking into what

the

curious

of

If

out

pleasantest set

cared

arabesques designed by

painter.

accessories

the

puffing

in contact

The

which

enriched

Sang

the

well

in fresco,

arabesques

decorations

about

been

between

from

giving you

come

cells of the monks,

the

once

horribly-smoking

Poste."

Regie

panelled walls

the

were

"

of the

most

ever

utility has

as

refrain

are

clerks,

foreigner.

only

them

I have

the

oblige

to

they

to think

disposed

clerks
post-office

the

while

Cavours,"

be

Art

from

part of the

the

on

desire

would

employes,
of

post their correspondence there

moreover,
a

273

VATICAN.

THE

IX

bolism,
sym-

and

here

indulged

cupids bestriding snails, the nymphs

lizards, the

gravely riding

owl

in

chariot

by swallows.
the

imagination

office

arabesques

this.

Now

and

has

again

of the

riot to

run

he

has

of the

decorator
even

out-Heroded

Roman

greater
Herod

extent

in the

postthan
way

of

274

redundant

accessories

acanthus

introducing

scrolls

his

among

and

squirrels,
oysters, lobsters, peaches, figs,tomatoes,
Yes, onions
boldest

artistic

however,
of the

to the

black

the

sittingfigure

newspapers,

and

spiritand

realism.
but

time;

in fresco

limned
The
with

the

on

perhaps

spectaclewas

Philistine

my

even

Roman

sarcophagus

steamer

somewhat
the

machine
the

spectacle of
in that

tradition, the most

Rafaelle

these

and

things.

set

But

the

old

hideous

his heart

the

postcards,,

should

The

Rome.

whistle

jars

upon

to

harmonise

about

Tiber's

which,

postage-stamps

on

of

your

penny
nerves

yourself
a

sewing-

bank, hard

by

according

first cast
fire. I have

and

the

antique

an

plying

woman

brain

in

reconcile

you

from

live to

engine-buffers,

modern

of Bakeresses

and

washing

close to the
window

strange sights,

scarcely care

Venice

bewitching

the

You

that
difficulty

very

head
At

sky.

and
at

soldiers

at

house

very
at

that

little too

porphyry.

it is with

and

Farnesina,

of

her

over

very

convent

spirit.

Canalazzo

the

on

of Turkish

company

some

wrappers,

of

huge

painted with reallyremarkable

seen

wall

Regie
Italian

of

of letters,

scarcely thought

sight of

on

all

"

in the

blue

pure

are,

archway

the

buffers

towers

mounds

are

have

which

into the

pamphlets,

draped

of the

one

The

too.

the

symbolises

female

of

postage-stamps, newspaper-

see

to

funnel

fuliginousfumes

the

my

athletic

apparently sittingon

belches
of

One

onions.

convent

under

another

cloisters.
an

converted

the

of

colour

effect of

fine

very

flanking one

personifiedby

locomotive,

in

frescoes

two

colours, and

feet

with

performances

entrance

Poste"

and

and

and

incongruous objectsas parrots, monkeys,

such

leaves

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

her

to-

eyes

beheld

newspaper-wrap-

IX

the

pers,

the

climax"

and

steam-engines
them

depicted
Orbilius"

of

horsing

have

we

the

entire

his

process

of

Irish

farther

no

gone

little

out

eelskins, placidlyhung

depicted the

or

schoolmaster

terriblyfond

fresco

Herculaneum,
and

boys

board

outside

his

as

it may,

I liked

the

one.

This

plagosus
was

with

the

times

of
graffito

Hood,

Thomas

to

so

them

modern

In

Children

' '

shanty,

duly

graphically

was

than

direction

according

"

thrashing

castigation.

had

have

who

which

sign,on

who,

on

chalked

at

this

in

schoolmaster,

mosaic.

cap

had

That

in

"

to

Eomans
would

they

postage-stamps

in

of

If the

incongruity. Why

of

fresco, seemed

in

funnels

and

engine-buffers

275

VATICAN.

THE

in to

Taken

Bate."
Be

it

Postal

the

In

thunder-clouds,

right
her

comet-like

Pleione

the

field of

the

earth.

mother

The

perhaps,

amplitude

of Nana

Majesty's
Leighton
Rowland
of St.

of

grand

paint

Hill

and

"

the

the

or

sky, lurid

with

to

his

in
"

blast, came

the

stupendi capelli;
out.

commissioning
the

postage system

Atlas

wings
ends,

uttermost

Electra

"

much

air,

flying

of

the

"on

trifle too

carried

But

wires.

tossed

borne

symbolical of

penny

Martin's-le-Grand,

had

graphy.
Tele-

genuine daughter

made

grandly

one,

fresco

the

in

the

than

Electric

the

garments

Dardanus

had

she

Postmaster-General
to

stormy

carrying Light

and
of

the

"

artist

muscular,

was

vision, her

herself

of

poles and

the

streaming

winds," and

in

better

fresco

emblem

an

dimly

tresses

"

was

distance,

saw

you

Electra

of all the
of

middle

the

across

all abroad"
and

pendant

second

little too
the

of

the
still,

ception
con-

Imagine
Sir

Frederick

apotheosis of
for the

requestingMr. Poynter

her

Sir

great hall
to prepare

276

Office

in

noble

the

capelli"
"

of

modern

Italian

who
of

to

lore

who

man

mention

in

realityit

Palazzo

the

Via

della

absurd

blunders
The

Factory
my
since

as

in the

alighted

in

our

little about

the

been

able

If

who

is

carriage

that
on

as

on

the
I did

of

Francesi.
!

nonsense

are

you
not

of the

Carlo

San

of
dei

You

to

make
to

The

mean

such

me

di Roma

the

morning

Piazza

San

at

Mosaic

on

Roba

in

Rome

the

to

me

myself.

It is in

come

"

be

to

erroneously

exceptionallyhard

particularitem

more

that

to

you

conducted

not

vellers
tra-

are

sure

Ravenelli

best

had

is

when

and

dei

of

timorously dread,

He

Luigi

Via

The

were

Mosaic

the

most

than

Church

Stuff

shrewdly suspect
from

revere,

is in San

that, you

of that

about

there

Messenger

Pizzicagnola.

Vatican

factory
Manu-

know

Well,

darkly

you

friends, however,

ignorance

as

Bella

cities.

thoroughly.

Schiabbi

Frattaglia.

Mosaic

topographical knowledge

Home

in the Palazzo

the

of

deeply

upon

despotic

I have

that

years

Queen's
I

but

wandering

thoroughly.

particularpicture

the

with

sively
submis-

myself quite

been

many

Nana's

temper

well-beloved

have

so

frowns

Corso, when

all.

stupendi

about

good

"

the

rave

guides through

My

knows

He

despot.

Guido

trusty and

none

of

to

in

me

smattering

while

Thus,

Ulysses.

ceased

surrendered

my

travellers.

the

to

the

be

slightly,but

akin

Telegraph

for the

with

nymph

put

"

Vatican.

only

up

and

knew

of

to

the
not

globe during

pick

them

brace

the

habitable

hair

art, and

were

of

have

golden

the

to

figure

Italians

torrent

friends

Electra

welcoming

Lothhury.

that

But

SOUTH.

DUE

of tlie Pleiades

cartoon

JOURNEY

when

Pietro

for
"

;
we

they

We

entered
which

Bronze,
Swiss

or

"

their

former

to

the

and

historical

which

abnormal

dimensions

and

when

admirably

close
when

well

warriors.

grizzled soldiers.
scattered
and

youth

Swiss

Guards

The

about

the

jar

Papal gendarmes,
corridors

athletic-lookingmen,

in

and

their

quaint
of
but

upon

the

vision

and

tone

down

at

distance.

but

are

not

these

of

and

of whom

staircases,

handsome

glad

like wasps

mature

were

Swiss

was

beardlessness

and

on

harlequins ;

in groups

seen

half

harmonise

the

by

old

The

are

which

burden
the

in

bellicose

like

them,

to

look

them

garb,

they

struck

much

was

of their

hues

are

you

make

whether

more,

once

in

maintenance

fiftymen.

as

of

Italy their

grievous

too

many

half

of United

question

halberdiers

costumes,

glaring

far

I
so

mediaeval

the

be

of the

days

eight hundred

Their

sadly decimated.

strength would

old

some

advent

Svizzeri,"

"

the

of

Gate

the

by

the

In

believe,

the

present numbers

at

see

since

Papal Exchequer,

Guard

Vatican

Pope.

were,

but

been

the

of

there

Svizzeri,"
have

the

of

kept jealouslyguarded hy

is

Power

ranks

the

Palace

bodyguard

Temporal
these

the

277

VATICAN.

THE

IN

often

few

were

fine

very

showy

too

uniforms.
Our

had

access

we

No

"

the

to

seemed

to

loafers,"no

next

Vatican.

have

and

again

Italy a

"

"Svizzero"

gendarme

very

was

long

very

priestor

who

duty,

on

way

and

case,
stair-

loftystone

boys, no

newspaper

shovel-hatted

Monsignore glided by.

the

Ascending

left

brawling

by

politicians.Everything
Now

the

inspected first by

were

standing sentry, and

was

we

permits

behind

us.

puting
feverishlydis-

still and

quiet.

purple-stockinged

Svizzero," lounging

on

bench

278

by

the

guardhouse door,

Romano.

I wonder

the

as

papers

No

cassa.

mind's

non-clerical

on

business."

I had

expected

entered

we

to find

in

the

who
a

with

example,
from

Some

fifteen

the

frieze

twenty

twelve

months

skull

velvet
our

different

tints

purposes

of

the

was

cap,

the

minds

copying

and

would

to

Court

Paul

San

mosaics.

ployed
busily em-

which

into

had

we

with

only

were

in

occupied

occupied with

be

taken

each

and

of

the

the

of

portraits

embellishment

Without

it

those, for

as

Peter's, have

St.

tacles,
spec-

picture of

been

roughly-finishedseries

Saint

even

of

of

noble

execute,

for the

my

the

of

took

Walls

perfect.

to

guardian,

The

the

work, there

He

years

of

admission,

elderlygentleman

in

in

gallery hung

in
altar-pieces

rather

basilica

the

No

lofty studio

mosaic

Fra-

placard addressed

largestpictures,such

the
as

off, and

Fabbrica"

Rubens.

months,

wicked

Capitan

of art-workmen

an

Popes recently completed

in

"

of such

way

see

Reale

and

was

by

of

boldly-designed and
of

"

scores

One

serve

to

to

Osscrvatore

the

angle of

an

completed

many

which

long

very

inscribed

the

Child

labour

more.

many

busily engaged

was

and

this

ever

passing through

present.

Madonna

had

at

some

of

splendid specimens
artists

heard

spacious

after

ushered

two

he

and

corridor

that

were

orthodox

I seemed

Romans,

Damaso

; but

reading the

such

corner

every

from

was

was

SOUTH.

Pungolo, the Fanfulla, and

at

to

DUE

whether

Italy was

eye

It

JOURNEY

fact
of

affable

most

apparently very
that

vitreous

work.

old

In

there

were

enamel

Murray

in

gentleman
anxious

to

"

in

it is stated

black

impress

twenty-seven

kept

stock"
that

on

thousand
for
there

the
are

only

thousand

ten

for the

hand

number

quoted

mosaic

Cecilia

Master

being

of

bits of

picture as

large

the

only

keep

count

and

polished

artist

the

as

so

into the

finished
to

present

the

almost

entirely disappear, especiallyin

the
at

of

use

the

an

morsels

in

there

high

elderlygentleman

in the

has

the

cared

flesh

tints, and
arrive

to

hundreds
in

to

enamel

of

needed

is

some

light

Saint

finallyground

"spiculse"

glass

were

the

the

of

nose,

tiny

chin,

or

eye.
The

appeared
To

smaller

strong magnifying

discovery that

vitreous

the

of

uniformly glossy

surface

How

composition

is

picture

the

seen

fiftythousand.

as

if,indeed, he

"

joints between

have

Transfigurationor

tell

as

but

glass enter

the

down

high

as

can

for when

glass preserved ready

of

Mosaicists

as

thousands

many

shades

various

of the

279

VATICAN.

THE

IN

his

which

to be

right, about
he

plainly,in

in

that

and

him

labourer

fissures

the

in the

them

from

About

three

with

layer

should
a

; there

with

the

; there

was

hod.
were

mortar,
a

good

to

deal

not

an

an

spreader

of

behind

great gaps
rows

odd

only

standing

were

upon

so

be

were

speak

to

mind

to my

and

mosaic

downwards.

was

properly

rows

Kubens

model,

picture was,

bricks

There

the

worked

craftsman
of

the

was

what

strength.

parts of the

conveyed

ingenious

there

work

and

before

size and

him,

part of the

mess,

but

that

glass brickwork
"between

lower

or

mosaic,

mortar,
a

feet

unusual

having apparently

shocking

impression
artist

artist

quarter

of

considerablylarger than

was

finished, the
last

four

simulating.

was

picture,which

The

painter'seasel

spectacles stood

and

of unfinished

speak, plainly visible

of

dust

about, and

280

deal

good

more

understand

the

fault,with

at

moisture.

But

most

million

which

velvet

incidentallythat,
one

DUE

process

in the

guardian

JOURNEY

skull

been

mainly guesswork.
is

me,

kind

fusible

so

rods

When

the

the

easel

on

; and

upon

and
be

on

by

artist
with

with

then

proceeds to

little

wet

cement

thrusts

tool.

sharp
"

or

the

scoop

"

the

mastic," and
"

spiculse

slightly

or

that

so

requires

is

the

size fixed

so

mounts

is

will
slab

as

to hold

of

enamel

filled in

with

proposed design
pen

the

plaster
made

cavity thus

"tesserae,"

is

The

ink.

and

he

into this mastic

the

three

excavated

portion of
the

place

to

round, which

slab

small

fills up

He

it is

rods,

of about

channels,

or

usually in

out

step

The

which

outline, and

in

all

hollowed
on

he

depth

mosaic.

in which

gesso," or plasterof Paris,

accurately traced

to

grooves

the

tell

to

matic
polychro-

slate of the

flat border

cement
Then

embedded.

These

first

or

out

completed

transverse

tenaciouslythe

will be
"

the

level with

the

copper,

have

to

tints.

or

commenced

inches, leaving

take

fineness,

repair when

to

of marble,

larger

no

properly numbered,

case

were

threads, small
of

was

oxides, and

by compositors.

slab is hollowed

this

into

proceeded

metallic

out

particulartint

slab

he

the

V., there

statement

to

mentioned

pieces,each

with

drawers

which

to

in

He

Pius

varying degrees

kept

is intersected
more

of

and

aid, when

my

enamel,

drawn

picture is

half

be

can

are

of

this

The

type used

supply

thousand

; but

the

knows

artist

fresh

it

to

explanations.

glass,coloured

sticks

resembling

the

of

that

oblong

or

millet

of

degrees,

being employed,

portrait of Pope

than

grain

began, by

came

cap

hundred

seven

was

courteous

in

SOUTH.

as

sively
succes-

the

case

IN

be, accordingto the

may

folds

of

clear

sky, his

pair

drapery

of dice

morsels

shadows

even

of enamel

in the

details

The

cement,

of

my

informant,

marble

and

of

slaked

linseed

side.
of

be

may

lips or
be

mastic, is made,

or

his

at

pattern

flowers,the bits of glass may

or

far

hair, or

or

of

foliage

gather

from

Tiburtine

lime, finely powdered

oil, and, when

or

pins' heads.

I could

as

one

as

larger than

no

so

large

eyes

broad

background

as

the

In

thoroughly dry, is

hard

as

flint.

as

Sometimes
and

the

this

the

of

means

last-named

pattern

frescoed
a

all ; and

at

mastic

series

continuous

matching

spot of

of

exactly the

in

lieu of the

artist's
the

is

for

kept damp

completed,
plugged

enamel

mixed

"

stopped

ingenious

would

simply

the

and

with

wax,

and

defect

with
the

may

pounded
entire

of enamel

glass

wounds

the

by withdrawing
another

while

the

precautions,
When

fortnight.

which

the

replacements, by

produced

driving in

novice

amount

bit of hard

effect

any

by adopting

art

and

"

to

thrusting in

than

or

picture

morsel

tiny crevices

any

that, by this

recourse

and, by observing proper

more

tint, by

to

If the

enamel

pattern, and

design by

easilyamend

can

is still wet

be

frescoed

soft mastic.
he

which

smoothed

produce

an

the

displacements

hue, and

same

could

having

in

progress

of

the

obvious

is

that

me

working,

the

offendingpiece of

cement
can

eye,

of

way

It

without

it strikes

considerable

replicaof

mosaicist

head," and

cavity is

driven, according

are

mallet.

skilled

fills the

exact

an

glass

wooden

own

make

might

to

his

which

with
of

process,

of

out

bits

small

mastic

in fresco

painted

into

"

in the

or

281

VATICAN.

THE

remain

the

work

are

fully
care-

marble,

surface

it

of the

or

with

picture

282

is

then

down

ground

with

and

putty

the

left

being

be

in

of

and

thus

the

surface

unpolished

very

oils.

an

easily

can

at

altitude

mosaic

perfected
be

of

vigour

great

at

leaving

"

style

hung

might

circumstance

gold

Byzantine

finally

polished

from

Roman

distinguished

hroadly

unground

of

but

and

plane,

perfect

mistaken,

elaborately-finished

effect.

of

feet

hundred

at

and

very

there

mosaic,

from

Roman

short

highly-varnished

the

is

ductive
pro-

of

picture

the

after

picture,

even

as

former

surface

of

vitreous

recognised

the

where

irregularity

an

be

once

of

save

"

burnished

it

he

may

by

to

SOUTH.

oil.

Byzantine
mosaic

DUE

JOURNEY

even

the

if

ground

manner,

distance,

painting

for

XXII.

THE

WITH

TRAPPISTS

IN

THE

CAMPAGNA.

ROME,

who

and

heads

noblest

off,

"jut

was,

Madrid,"

at

he

whom

how

delighted

have

This

not

he

said

fond

gravely

to

back

be

shall
him

very

to

with

El

Seiior-

time

and

wisest

Kaleigh

On

of

and

Aragon

remains

you

with

him.

English

jest

him

country."

the

at

"

tell

this

in

"

arrival

your

Sol,

jest

it

I.,

dispatches,

residence

standing

the

acquaintance

my

my

of

gentleman

Spain

renew

probably,

"

8.

James

Walter

joke.

young

to

of

one

Sir

of

to

during

Gondomar's

in

of

Court

getting

that

"

compliments

my

seen

was,

climate

occasion,

sending

present

in

England

on

was

will

in

the

at

instrumental

grimly

so

was

Ambassador

Spanish

GONDOMAR,

December

this

to

day.
"

Sol

El

Britain,

it

London

is

and,

French,

sale
would

not

according
so

Antequera,"

shrouded

to

by

fog

with

the

sooty

does

smoke,

that

when

it

of

residuum
rains

feiiilletonniste,

in
M.

London
Alfred

is

it

land.

deluged

neighbours

impregnated

densely

Spaniards

sunless

wholly

lively

our

become

vivacious

is

seem,

the

say

the

and

watery

perpetually

our

it

rains

Assolant,

ink.

but

When

with

critics,

rain;
the

downpour
generating
When

constrained

the

for

284

to inhabit

season

replenish the
to his

his

it with

the

SOUTH.

to

his

the

true

city in

and

the

It may

be

considered, nevertheless, as

have

times

at

most

fashions

the

and

been

in New

Anglomania.
ulsters
of

"

extremely fond

Eome

Three

and

the

"

corsets

characters;
Manchester

and

"

not

exists

hats
"

and

; the

are

whiskers

stage-doory

understand

"

"

to

"

bulldogs, to

the

merits

of

during
my

my

dear

rained

is another

and

less

they

land

during nearly

was

the

"

carry

time, and

of

trim

their
or

beginning
crutch"

Apollinaris and

with

spicuous
con-

Roman

and

to

sticks,

Wilhelms-

pale ale.

agreeable particularin

followed
whole

and

and

are

stay in the capital of King Umberto

native

in

gilded youth,"

our

pattern, but

"

warranted
;

tailors

are

steam

Inglesi

quelle,of English pickles,potted anchovies,

there

by

extensivelyworn

according

ladies

windows

kiltings made
"

present

Boman

shop

all marked

at

proportions of

the

five young

only patronise English

keep betting-books and

But

ness,
cloudi-

colourless

most

nonpareil velveteens,"

manufacture,

"jeunesse

to

it is

Yes,

following English

of

which

rage

of every

out

Gainsborough

Swanbill

gentlemen

filled

equallygratifyingand

imitating all things English approaches

hair

heavens

that foreigners
English susceptibilities

boots, body-linen,hosiery, are

and

London

forth

world.

wounded

full

hold

continuouslyrecurring fog, rain, and

consolatoryto

wear

and

window

to

ing
accord-

only,

sahle-weeping

aggravated by smoke, make

an

had

imperishable jet black japan writing fluid.

all too

for

Soho," wished

Le
he

inkstand

open

forthwith

"

of

region
his

of

showing,
and

DUE

dismal

contents

own

encrier

JOURNEY

the

which

aspect of

painful fidelity. It
the

Roman

clerk

of

WITH

the

weather

wanting

the

make

to

of

way

forestierithat

the

to

prove

side

at

joke

about

the

end

I started

hands.

my

of
It

did

The

day

London

the

through

of the

heavily

of

its

leaden

very

worst

no;

that

the

of

than

actually wet

miserable.

The

monochrome
drab

in its

with

deckers

which

laid

umbrellas
brosa

this

dotted

in

English

in

year,

black

shiny

macintoshes.
and

the

and

thoroughly

out

and

and

the

like

in

suit of

dismal

dockyard

wooden

three-

In

Corso

are

Piazza

the

in VallomColonna

Roman

citizens
was

and

London,

you

proportionately

old

doors

was

it made

tinted

the

of

kind.

downcome

to the

of

groups
All

tion
reproduc-

breaking

the

Sheerness.

at

rubbed

sun

was

indue

to

Campagna

afforded

The

akin

few

have

than, probably, leaves

of

season

used

ordinary

thicker

with

Caesars

his

would

generally damp
of the

and

autumnal

drizzle

lightestparts
they

up

were

at

City

his

late

of

sky.

fine, steady, pitiless,conservative

less

and

"holding up,"
veil

the

mentally

and

and

when,

curiously accurate

no,

"

Soho,"

Le

chuckled

such

was

Assolant

expedition into

an

inwardly

day

rain

not

promise

some

Perhaps

on

"

in

with

Cheap-

or

of Gondomar

Alfred

of M.

thought

the

vie, in

of November

thought

be

wretchedness,

muddy

ink-raining sky

mornings since,
of Rome.

; I

Nazionale

Via

to

part should

his

on

beginning

February.

sun

the

the

at

the

and

dinginess

of

the

and

resolved

Anglomane,

efforts

no

Corso

Viaduct

about

sneer

the

colourless

Holborn

fanatical

apparentlya

was

285

CAMPAGNA.

THE

IN

TRAPPISTS

THE

was

loped
enve-

thoroughly
I

inwardly

exulted.
We
St.

were

Paolo

bound
alle

Tre

on

pilgrimage to

Fontane,

or

of

the

the

historical

Three

Abbey

of

Fountains, the

286

legend

of which

the

site

Eomans

Salvian

the

as

given

name

they stand

which

on

the

to

family, the

the

be

put

to death

of

the

Gentiles

made

was

the

to

made

The

day.

to

different

say,

palate, and

the

successive

it touched

the

and

"cooler ; and
to

"come

an

the
end

edifice
was

is

the

Fountains

to

afterwards

was

martyrdom

thousand

two

of

St.

hundred

the

trunk

bounds

; and

miraculous

continued

to

tain
foun-

After

the
the

over

sixteenth

serves

erected

three

as

so

the

grims
pil-

sweet

and

persecutions had

place of

the

Three

century, the sacred

hopelessly
Pietro

until

flow

is harder

has,

second

to

tioner
execu-

the

Zeno, the
and

the

soft and

Cardinal

edifice which

the

'a

blow

first is very

of the

into

bound

The

built

was

Janiculum.

fountains

icy cold.

end

entirelyrebuilt by

has

tepid ;

church

fallen

having

Close

the

At

Fountains.

third

earth

Saint

was

leaps or

Apostle

of these

flavour.
almost

of the

separated from

three

of each

water

Hill

one

should

the

Fisherman

of

Nero

Paul

that

Koman

when

the

at

When

noble

Saint

Salviae ; he

pillar,and

instantaneously sprang,
this

and

Heavy

Aquae

head.

spot where

each

from

the

tells that

Waters

Salvian

climb

of

off his

apostolichead

Peter

conducted, while

was

shaft

struck

the

to

was

ancient

Aquae Salviae,"

property of

legend

Saint

unhealthy swampiness

the
The

gens."

brought

was

the

was

Apostles
it

truncated

the

which

painfullyto

"St. Paul

the

"

Salvia

that

decreed

or

demesne

the

to

Massa

"

Waters,

abbatial

the

known

being

district from

neighbourhood,

the

buildings of

churches

Three

brieflyrecited.

very

actual

in the

comprised

are

be

may

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

ruinous

condition,

it

Aldobrandini.
a

canopy

another
Tribune
Christian

to

for

the

Three

commemorate

who, with

the

ten

legionaries under

WITH

his command,
the

of

in

the

pile

the

do

to

them

hither

yet bears,

the

Ladder,

"

of

who, while

celebrating a mortuary

to the

Madonna,

conducting

redeemed

basilica

reign of

III.

Leo

who, with

monk,

saint
to

by

sent

was

Rome,

put

The

body

the

with

the
was

evidence

orthodoxy
a

of

to

preserved in

the
the

had

that

Salvian

Abbey

"

lived.

the

at

against

whose

which

angels

paradise.

to

was

by Pope
Persian

death

to

of the

during
martyred

Constantinople

carefully-paintedportrait

he

as

"cultus

Spanish saint,

Peninsula

cated
dedi-

Anastasio, built

from

Heraclius

Emperor

veneration

as

III.

Chosroes

such

cited

tortures,

of

Council
as

holy pictures.

of Clairvaux

head
in

held

Nicest
proof

from

of this saint

France

of

St. Vincent

brought

were

The

of

St.

of

was
effigy

Iconoclasts

bones

Waters.

This

Second

the

Holy

Bernard,

restored

was

in his habit

was

seventh, and

in the

horrible

together

deep

Sant'

and

church

fanes, is the early

of sacred

Vicenzo

it

as

church

by

purgatory

Anastasius

Anastasius
in

from

St.

the

eighth century.

persecutionof

the

then,

of the

of

ladder

Their

The

Mary

in

mass

this group

San

of

bore

vision

vision

souls

Honorius

the

in

in

saw

Finally,to complete

in the

of

memory

St.

captives,

masse.

overflowing rill."

relics is called

Zenonian

perpetuate the

to

Christian

the

vast

know

to

Christian

which

spring

loss

slaughtered en

close to

name

containing the

and

that

when

at

of

in the

convicts

as

being

number

vast

interred

were

Emperor

during

pious legionaries had

labour

to

Salviae

Aquas

of Diocletian, but

the

such

with

brought

remains

were

Baths

completed,

was

what
had

of

the

The

condemned

287

CAMPAGXA.

THE

at

Diocletian.

outset

construction

IX

death

to

put

was

persecution

been

TRAPPISTS

THE

until
T

the
was

1789
2

288

but

during

vanished.

the

of the

only

answer

the

in

of

ask

may

to

the

that

my

that

fact

tenanted

tbe

Revolution

the

the

of

I should

Three

community

can

band

I will

lay simply
Waters

found

is

and

laborious,
be

as

speciallymake

Salvian

interesting,as

as

is brimful

thither

the

by

altogether

Fountains.

repairing

establishment

it

city,which

in this

martyrs,

for

reason

monastic

and

Abbey

by perhaps

beneficent

SOUTH.

why,

me

relics of saints

pilgrimage

troubles

You

DUE

JOURNEY

as

anywhere

in Christendom.
Prior

the

to

arrived

the

at

renowned
of

Home.

It

other

any

abbot

leader
who

had

and

lived and

after

what

he

Abbey
"

thought

of

of his
Pio

laboured

Melleray, in
"

within

there

had

to

to

France

him,

set

and
been

Congregation

of

Saint
a

; but

he

up

Plain

of

the

Old

of
there

monks
; but

Trappist
feeling

reluctant

of his
the

Dom

sought

year,

obtained

standard

Vincent, alle Tre

Bernard

sixtieth

he

The

ing
Return-

he

the

at

the

in

Gethsemane,

States.

retreat

to

of Desolation

certain

World,

in his

attached

the

"

city.

of

the United

where

"

furiouslythan

repaired, with

the

community

St.

in

Convent

the

Campagna

Sepolcro

more

be permanent

long-deserted monastery
Anastasius

long in

superior, to Rome,

Nono

the

fatally

II

environs

prior of

wrould

whole

party of pioneers was

years' absence

many

mission

from

been

had

"

spot

there

raged

fever -stricken

of this

the

in

desolate

monks

Trappist

locality was

emphatically

most

malaria

of the

and

Eutropio

the

was

the

; and

called

was

It

sepulchre.

unhealthiest

very

of

the

Fountains,

Three

the

as

1868, when

year

sent
con-

permission
Order

basilica

Fontane.
of

Citeaux

in

the

at

the

of

Saint

For

ages

year

of

the

1810,

288

"but

the

during

vanished.
of the

only

answer

the

in

of

ask

may

to

the

that

my

that

fact

tenanted

and

Kevolution

the

in this

for

community

can

band

I will

lay simply

Salvian

Waters

found

is

and

laborious,
be

as

speciallymake

thither

the

interesting,as

as

is brimful

Fountains.

repairing
by

altogether

city,which

Three

establishment

it

I should

martyrs,

reason

monastic

the

of the

Abbey

by perhaps

beneficent

SOUTH.

why,

me

relics of saints

pilgrimage

troubles

You

DUE

JOURNEY

as

anywhere

Christendom.

in

Prior

the

to

arrived
renowned
of

the

at

Borne.

It

other

any

abbot

and

and

had

ing

after

what

he

Abbey
"

been

had

thought

"

within

France

set

to

there

had

and

Saint

been

Congregation

of

to

; but

up

the

the

Old

where

Vincent,

Bernard

he

alle
of

there

to

certain

the

Tre
monks
; but

The
Dom

the

at

sixtieth

Eeturn-

he

World,

the

in

Gethsemane,

sought

Trappist

year,

feeling

reluctant

obtained
of his

standard

the

"

of Desolation

States.

retreat

in his

"

city.

of

Convent

the United

attached

community

St.

Plain

of the

him, he repaired, with

long-deserted monastery
Anastasius

long in

superior,to Rome,

Nono

the

Campagna

furiouslythan

more

be permanent

Melleray, in

of his
Pio

laboured

would

in

environs

prior of

fatally

Sepolcro

party of pioneers was

years' absence

many

of

this

of

"II

spot

there

fever- stricken

lived and

mission

from

the

raged

whole

the

in

desolate

monks

Trappist

locality was

emphatically

most

malaria

leader
who

Eutropio

of

the

was

the

and

unhealthiest

called

of

the

Fountains,

very

was

It

sepulchre.
;

Three

the

as

1868, when

year

sent
con-

permission
Order

basilica
Fontane.
of

Citeaux

in

the

at

the

of

Saint

For

ages

year

of the

1810,

WITH

two

after

years

of

Patrimony

of

rule
time

same

objects

Fountains

alienated

was

Dom

princes, potentates,

to

be

Abbot, and

After
Leo

XII.

found

by

the

no

the

the

wretched

to

condition

which

the

of the

States

Three

the

to

him, and

receive

to

had

premises

of

all

in the

Tre

Fontane,

and

custody

of the

the

Friars

Minor

of the

Friars

Minor,
It

appanage.

whatsoever

was

who

so

of the

daytime officiated
to visit the

came

the

at

the

as

monastery
a

guide

Pius

to

three
was

the

fear of the
hamlet

VII.

of

For

San

priestcame

for
years

their
no

lay brother

eventide

dreadful

of
the

new

service
and
who

the
in

pilgrims
the

creet
dis-

malaria, took

Sebastiano.
once

bull

Observance.

strangers and
at

order

churches;
a

ness
foul-

entrusted

much

care

But

sanctuaries.

adjoining

pontificateof

not

the

in

lay brother, through

refuge

did

deprived

horriblyunhealthy.

celebrated

was

solitaryinhabitant
the

however,

struck

By

the

Citeaux

The

he

fallen.

promulgated

to

He

mournfully

was

Pope

Fountains.

afterwards

abbey

head

Church,

shortly

property

the

see

dilapidation,neglect,and

of

entire

Superior,

heart.

of the
state

olive land

Gerardo'

his, Dom

ceeding
suc-

cardinals

last

the

cious
pre-

and

and

mortification

over

broken

visit in

there

one

into

of

restoration

paid

and

the

other

vine and

valuable

monastery;

promoted

died

About

piety of Charlemagne

Much

the

trative
adminis-

the

reliquaries and

silver

Giovannini, had

cellarer

Pope,

Commissary.

of

the

from

Gerardo

conventual

French

the

on

the

under

placed

the

mysteriously disappeared.

hands

prisoner of

by

offered

generations

violentlylaid

was

magnificent

289

CAMPAGNA.

THE

made

Imperial

an

the

and

Peter

Three

IN

I. had

Napoleon

St.

of the

Ahhey

TRAPPISTS

THE

week

During

during

290

the

pasturage

Ladder, and

oifered

the

had

their

in

Order

and

the

stricken

indomitable

his

coadjutors

to

Abbot

more

in

had
of

was

Trappe

about

to

they triumphed
in the

this

United

that

is to

this

pestiferous swamp

say,

Fruit.

aspirationwas

Campagna.

He

sought

sound, and
the

States

in

to

the

should

anchorites

essentiallythat

which

had
times

of

living-

half-

fevered,

The

purpose

Campagna
dwell.

governed

Francis

of Verulam

make

this

of the

by

not

was

which

fertile,and

reclamation

and

band

at last.

plague-spot

merely

Eutropio

were

with

to

eventually

obstacles

their work

them

of

; and

feeble

was

continued

There
a

number

many

of Dom

vanquishing

reduced

been

Thebaid, where

object

of La

these

sufferingsof

fever, to which

of

first years

of their

one

insurmountable.

was

; but

make

Every

malarial

the

the

the

life-longphilosophicalinvestigations of

the

the

centuries

many

confront

to

perseverance

speak,going

who
to

Eutropio's

ultimate

so

During

the

and

appeared

so

ready

monastery

community

means

of

permitted

contingencies of friars

succeeded

half-palsiedlimbs

kind

fresh

energy

outset

skeletons,

any

Mauligny,

De

possession once

during

Fountains

by

the central

the

the

Three

down

But

arrive from

the

which

terrible.

were

succumbed.

of

Nono

Komano."

Agro

at

monks

turn

when

basilica, Pio

found

were

"

the

residence

at the

named

to take

At

shepherds.

gentleman,

of Citeaux

monastery

monks

of

devoted

the

restore

of the

children

Holy

theirs.

Nineteen
terrors

to

the

church

been

the

the

of

Church

the

in

mass

munificent

SOUTH.

DUE

say

to catechise

Trappists of
of

to

season

length, in 1868,
having

JOURNEY

desert

healthy.
whole

waste

Dom
the
"

fair ;

His
of

WIT

As

FT

lyptus. By
with

waters

carted

or

and
been

undisturbed

defy

the

pists
and

spade

at

last

found

beneath

things

would

off waste

and

grow

trenched

soil

bodily with
which

in

thrive

and

all this

but

to break

render

time

and

to

Trap-

obstinate

crust

dynamite.

They
verdant

due

season.

aqueduct
had

they

had
as

resolute

fruit in
an

up

olives,

hard

all healthful

channelled, they built

and

water

clods

were

earth

so

the

astery
mon-

rubbish

the

the

pick, and

undermine

to

virgin

and

the

began

become

soil had

the

indurated

the

monks

dry places,where

of

fain

were

vegetable

it

as

altitude,

around

plant it with vines,

and

many

for ages,

action

blast

They

in

the

euca^

growing

amazing

an

acres

of

then

Campagna

But,

corn.

and

away

of the

ground

Mountains

marshy

beneficent

of trees,

square

many

the

to

the

plant

to

with

this thirstiest

over

drained.

were

the

began

Fontane

291

CAMPAGNA.

THE

astonishing rapidity,and

stagnant

burned

Tre
of

means

IN

monks

the

of the

neighbourhood

the

TRAPPISTS

beginning,

does

THE

to

to

carry

the

fight

fever.
Their

of land

allotment

was

but

small, but

they

had

planted

quinine

in

in

stood

Africa,

on

regions,

process

the. Pontifical

friends.

their

for fever.

decoction
the
but

of

banks
the

of

Too
found

which

labouring

They

in
to

used

leaves, as is the

the

them

and

Danube,
of

inconvenience

eventually led
Eucalyptus,

its

the

of time

adequate quantities,they

providentialremedy
success,

from

to the

their

perfect.

this

eucalypti which
to

poor

in the

consume

eucalyptus a

first,and

at

practice in
other

in

laboratory they

of
are

their

with
North

malarious

rudimentary

concoction

Meanwhile

Government

an

paration
pre-

Elixir
now

of

stantly
con-

agricultural

292

labours

have

the

Fontane.

Tre

they

resulted

and

summer,

and

the

they

take

fever

by
But

make

it may

how,

monks,

dose

numbering
all

accomplish
which
hale

and

had

help.

the

have

In

numerous

gang

Vecchia.

The

to

; and

enjoy the

of

the

approval

have

now,

fiftyconvicts
about

these
We

the

rogues

had

driven

at

on

out

road
of

of

ceded
pre-

wise

Rome

the

able

and

vation
culti-

of the

as

lent

met

Tre

by the

and
a

of

the

them
of

of

Civita

in Eome

did

its predecessors

continue

to

that

be.

powers
or

have

Pontifical

Bagno

hundred

Mon-

Power,

measures

the

to

Campagna

Fontane

building
We

to

the

present dominant

many

Trappist

enterprise

the

of

monastery.

the

from

assistance

in

in

Fontane,

Tre

of

believe,as

the

is

twenty, been

in

the

friars

employed

band

General

repudiate the

and

Elixir

Temporal

Tre

galley slaves

say,

returning

explain that they

the

of

the

of

Government

glad

am

round

I must

Director-

was

"

small

great interest

of

of

the

of

use

allotment

days

who

season

Elixir, and

drainage, reclamation,

their

last

took

deadly
the

of

solitude

to

precautions, absolute

less than

of

made

Trappists

courageous

and

asked, have

work

the

the

dose

the

sulphate of quinine.

smiling champaign.

Prisons, and

They

the

sometimes

signor de Merode,

not, I

small

of these

spite

of

be

Campagna

During

its appearance,

small

in

of

during

premonitory symptoms

any

If,

in Home

the

in

day, fasting,a

felt.

does

cells

climate

longer compelled, as

no

reside

to

in the

change

are

Malaria.

the

of

every

are

monks

their

leave

Demon

actual"

an

first year,

it whenever

repeat
fever

the

during

were

in

The

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

hundred

agriculturalwork
whole

omnibus

full

Fontane.

gate called Trigemina

WITH

Porta

or

that

the

ashes

Shelley's

of

Ostian

Way

Walls.

noticing, curiously,

was

of

somewhat

one

preliminarily arraigned

to

answer

being overtaken, gored,

still

of which

barricaded

enclosures

wild

as

well

feelingsthe
at

up

close

All

at

omnibus

wild

of

did

strike
I have

makes
are

me

made

to

as

and

assume

the

shame

for all that

of

utterlyto

These

of

in

road

sick

turn

to admit

of

of

the

upon

the

when, in their

"

has
he

in

dress
cut

or

do

agony

right wholly

should

it

garb, they
birds,

the

or

confess

pierrots."

the

another

Their

lands, and

richly earned

sign which

with
shut

quite

convicts.

polychromatic
has

the

being

came

we

aspect of gigantic*canary

rascal

these

to

contemplated

cargo

were

many

was

buffalo.

of the

corner

penal servitude, Society

obliterate

entrances

being intolerablydegrading

shudder

or

infuriated

an

convicts

seen

and

wayfarers ;

peril of

answer

enough

quite wide

The

cattle, herds

The

the

since

me,

containing

cattle.

two-legged zebras,
think,

van

me

wild

Campagna.

are

barriers

imminent

the

by

these

"

duty.

pleasant the contingency

turning

species

hue.

of

covered

or

not

the

quarters with

once,

the

seemed

as

reverse

tossed

at

in

run

inspector on

in

wall

"

inquiries,that

our

and

over

roam

scarcely satisfactoryto

cattle

the

before

ing
remind-

the

of

angle

protection of pedestrians

the

for

were

in

told us,

driver

the

delinquents recently

which

police-stationin

in

bar

the

barriers

wayside, and

along the

irregularintervals

at

the

without

wooden

some

the

along

so

Paul

St.

of

great Basilica

the

to

buried, and

lie

heart

and

of Keats

bones

the

where

Cestius

Cains

of

Pyramid

the

by

Cemetery

Protestant

and

placed

Paolo, hard

San

293

CAMPAGNA.

THE

IN

TRAPPISTS

THE

bear

on

of
not

and
and
his

294

"

front

This

is

"

Man

have

and

fantasticallyaccoutred,
off.

cut

rascals

These

brown

dingy
driver

told

"We

met

to

by

with

armed

the

their

gaol

and

with

front

weather

far

as

on

their

of

some

think

the

manner

of

It

enough.

is

all the

on.

Later

in

to knock

free
in

look

trouble

mended,

seemingly

to

and

in

courts

through
their

looked
that

are

day, the

the

the

cage.

vast

grating
In
in

to their

marched

were

of the

they congregated

unrestricted

ment
tor-

touched

rogues

old

heavily barred,

was

so

drenching rain, the galley-

off work, and

of the

one

to

them

in

over

not

or

of

some

not

"darbies"

held

away

wretches

poor

and

wore

seemed

cattle, but

movements

The

by,

convict

shackle

wild

or

by military

scampering

the

ordinary

drove

we

the

The

prevent his

working.

was

Fontane,

ankle, and

one

his waist.

his

the

Each"

round

gyve,

gate of ;the yard

were

gentlemen

swords.

having developed into

prison barrack

sundry

he

allowed

were

hyperbolically

murderers,

to

impede

fellows

mist

slaves

the

civillyas

caps

Scotch

in

round

while

harmless

The

band

to

as

him

so

the

of

me

work, watched

at

and

to

after

Campagna

ponderous

in

rifles

just heavy enough

me

mile, in

approached

we

fields

fastened

leathern

is

all

as

the

off in

single chain,

up

reminded

which

tails

their

closelyfittingcaps

wore

were

convicts

more

far

guards

They

fur.

with

us.

them

saw

they

to

shaven

gorillas,clean

omnibus

leaps

of convicts

aware

kangaroos

quadruped

villanous-lookingheads

been

like

like

or

the

only four

take

to

but

men,

in

Australian

marsupial
asserted

like

not

I have

and

who

looked

SOUTH.

DUE

JOUEXEY

an

groups

monastery.
all

but

and
hour

watch
or

in the

association, prattling and

and
the

so

the

court,

laughing

XXIII.

FROM

NAPLES

TO

POMPEII.

NAPLES,

WITH

varying

twice

as

with

seeking,
him,

of

Sunshine

yielded
with

blessed

have

and

now

.golden

to

was

Rome

so

the

puffs
bigger

task

to

and

of

have

continued

to

been

blessed

been

three

have

to

shivering
in

regions
narily
ordi-

are

year,

balmy

said

fog,

the

accounts

which

poured
that

one

blowing
and

coax

than

it

cold

of

have

example,
from

day

have

again

of

Search

in

once,

with

been

temperature,

certain

nally
phenomeoccurred

recently

in

and

sunshine,

hope

for

with

brief

snatches

of

bounty.

For

way

the

sunsets

Still, I have

England.

choked

or

sky

envy

than

more

in

compliments

be

scarcely

period

sunlit

sweet

luminous

rain,

advanced

with

with

read

with

and

have

Travels

my

and

weeks,

grateful

whole,
can

result

this

at

the

five

Europe,

my

mid-November

drenched

even

of

making

On

triumphant

cold,

which,

Sol.

since

Continent

of

object

Senor

El

to

the

the

of

cities

many

last

the

during

success

17.

December

flatter

rabbit

hutch

mercilessly.
my

the

sulky
into

and

logs
cheerful

Naples.

All

first

Neapolitan

My

energies

bellows,

the

in

days

striving
in

devoted

mainly

were

with

fireplace
blaze.

the

adulatory
not

Next

much

came

day

gusty and

of

and

dark
beat

day

outline
"the

wearisome

revel

the

in

But
art

the

even

palled

Museo
and

foot

on

looking

adjured by

purchase

at

and

reduced
the

of the

many

of

afterwards

"

and

on

afternoon

"

passionately

were

of

there

was

from

and

the

and

that

Hercules,

Posilipo,to

beyond

gold, fit
The

sudden

to

be

versed

in

the

finest of Italian
morrow

we

tenanted
fell

funeral

the

few

pall ;
of

to

so

good

minutes

wintry days

determined

of the
into

"

by

climate

the

on

villas

Lucia

the

rosier

houses

and

Santa

Night
like

and

all the

palatialhotels

hovels

Psyche,

sunset

rosy

converted

the

Edoardo

by

alabaster, Parian, bronze, ivory,

confidentlypredicted the
morrow

we

the

in

friend, well

weather-wise

from

returning
the

antique

Venus

Alraschid.

black

of

the

pink

Haroun

Capuan

of

miserable

kiosks

Caliph

"

the

Baruch

by

more

copies

momentarily

bay

to the

and

Palermo,

what
some-

once

Sorrento,

from

day

raising the

marvels

curiosityshops,

the
a

grown

for

little in

up

that

"

Callipygian Venus.

those

of

Tascabile

But

afterglow which

Chiaia

few

from

terra-cotta.

shore

cleared

Giovanni

Gladiator, and

the

foam

such

Hercules,

Farnese

time, especiallywhen

it had

Senzavergogna

having
means

Gladiator, and

"

in

the

of

On

Nazionale, and

contemplation

after

of

murky

so

bellows

Museo

the

Sea,

Chiaia, overleaping

was

available

most

Wounded

the

Psyche,

view

sky

the

blowing

revisit

to

Black

the

as

scarcelydiscernible.

the

"

ranean,
Mediter-

the

spiteful,cat- spitting flakes

was

of

recreation

spiritswas

almost

parapet of the

the

in

of Vesuvius

when

day

"

leaden-coloured

the

297

POMPEII.

hue

in

opaque

sometimes,
when

wrath

rainy

angrily against

it even,

TO

NAPLES

FKOM

but

Naples,
for the

drive

out

298

the

along
certain

could

taken

had

rain

have

of the

one

traveller

of
and

anxious

on

Goths,

and

"

architecture

full

force
and
with

in

Naples

of

things
and

and

the

full

habitually wear
telegraphs

and

Stabia3

very

aspect,

manners,

to

Neapolis

in his

remembrance

two

thousand

from

studios,
idolaters.

no

and

But

that
the

and

of ancient

the

still,emphatically
StabiaB ; from

beginning

to

slightly from

the

end,
the

astonishing
Greek

and
deliberately,
that

years

the

people
did

ago

railways, gas,

printing

no

Romans,

pictures of antique

and

had

sway

Spaniards,

seriously and

this

manner

had

and

has, with

Tadema

all

neighbourhood,

from

Alma

could

ago,

remains

is

city,and,

world

the

Greeks,

few

to

customs

although

Frenchmen,

the

"

knew

years

Castellammare

telephones;

of pagan

for

at

and

thousand

immediate

trousers, and

photographic

benighted

say

drive

the

people differingvery

years,

dust

no

part of

any

with

are

her

Eoman

knowledge

and

the

Phoenicians,

"

there

or

which

reasons

aspect, manners,

two

truth, resuscitated
life.

in

ancestors,

bay

road

and

people

Roman

and

be

successivelysettled

to

to the

dozen

would

"

them

their

Chiaia

colony

Neapolis

and

the

ancestors

this

the
distinctly,

things

mark

although

the

from

Greek

of that

care

have

of

at

sixteen

for

for

There

Byzantines, Lombards,

Germans

and

rail ; but

by

compare

I say

shores

the

road

to

of mankind

races

been

not

lunch

and

Naples.

road.

to

of their

customs

had

interestingthat

most

possiblytake.
of

from

good

people, and

gone

SOUTH.

Castellammare

whither

preferred the

least

DUE

towards

miles

fourteen

We

be

shore

locanda,

about

JOURNEY

presses,

they

were

life and

of

not

electric

steamboats,
the

most

surroundings

of their descendants

are,

traits

the

and

Tadema

features

has
to

conjured

picturesqueness of

its

I must

of my

the

sincerelyat
in the

seven

bade

and
that

Russian

thundering

on

side

to

the

personal grievance

which

beauty
As
say,

they

; while

for the

become

have

class of

poorer

"

the

sun

only patrimony.
of macaroni

they

is

can

day

be

and

happy.

patron, host, friend, consoler, and

in
so

so

"

quisitely
ex-

sort

of

exceptionally
or

as

sunset,

things

of

ever.

who

inheritance, and

live and

it

sunrise

population of

sunshine

;
;

resident

as

of
at

"

noise

nominally

bad

Neapolitans

of

their

With

for

joys

lady and

the

remembered
affectionately

and

the

of

phrase

may

remembrance

the

least three-fourths

at

million

up

with

long

is

climate

resent

scarcely think

Italian

been

giornate of unusually lovely skies

treasured

are

The

brain."

door

distressingmanner

if. I

"

about

when

approved

the

have

have

to

pleased
in

very

bedroom

my

room

that

howl

they

me

that

next

not

to

at

morrow

him

Naples,

sunrise.

sure

were

began

beautiful

belle

the

am

of

the

of

wished

thump

to

the

see

appear

in

prognostications

fineness

Bay

began

people, when

English

weather

the

family in

other

Italy,always
"

he
and

indeed, the bambino

but

the

to

as

of

summons.

the

on

ferred
trans-

vascular

is

cheerful

the

although

bottom

get up

Alma

realism.

perfectly accurate,

morning

me

the

baby

be

to

which

past, and

remote

hreathes, and

almost

indelihle

thousand

surroundings
the

from

friend

weatherwise
out

life and
up

that

confess

turned

for all that, in

which

canvas

299

POMPEII.

TO

NAPLES

FROM

few

form, I should
than

more

very

often

half

their

centesimi-worth

The

physician.

sun

"

is to them
Vieux

vaga-

300

"bond, le soleil
his

ditch

est

and

it is cold

They

shrink,
and

harshly
The

the

forget their

You

with

begin

dormice

and

their

foreigners in

no

roll themselves

into

up

till fine weather

corner

being

to-morrow

in foul

forcstierewho

that

being fleeced
wide

awake

It

was

of the

Bay of Naples

balcony

the

stretches

long

in the

Chiaia,
the

unfashionable

del

Greco,
with

within

weather

fact,
the

eastern

stone's

of

turning

are

winter, and

in

hole

some

only

the

is

the

or

hope
of

presence

of
the

always susceptibleof
wide

awake

and

had

very

"

On

sea

wall
of

and

Santa

region.

To

pennon

Right

giornata.

entire

sweep

right, westward,

promenade
the

as

eastward

of

the

stretch

Lucia, Portici,Resina, Torre

dell' Annunziata
white

my

fashionable

Posilipo.

lella

of the

view

strained
con-

was

opportunity

an

of

harbinger
the

enough.

sure

is commanded.

Chiaia,

long

is

Neapolitans

and
of

floating horizontallyacross

summit
whole

they

craft

fleeced, they would

It

and

chamber

direction

Torre

alms-asking.

time.

of my

the

that

be

walking.

their

hybernate

sunshine

beholding

From

time

to

again.

that

admit

for

splendid

midst

the

of

reallysevere

splendid sunrise,

very

to

fancy

came

keep

in winter

"

to

and

fair

or

the

balls

of

one

for

of

instead

creep

in

old.

sing, they speak

to

cease

eloquence

that,

in

physical aspect changes.

very

lose

and

Neapolitans, young

discordantly. They

shopkeepers

moles

the

they wither, they

loquacious lying.
into

Beranger's beggar, dying

cries

rainy their

or

mendicants

Even

"

it is with

so

When

moi

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

in

Castellammare,

condensed
the
front

vapour

vius,
Vesu-

from

its

sky, dominating

the

of

and

my

throw, the astounding seascape

window,
is bisected

by

FROM

huge

in

mountain

indigo in

Castel

which

on

by

Ovo,

it is

hill of the

Blocks

may,

There

is

the

allowance
the

of

which

for

of

to

rock.

The

Its structure
"

being

One

been

to

as

the

coated

granite and

of

walls.

frowning

have

portion
is

strikes

component

comprise
to

Castel

little mixed."

liberal

into

grown

rock, until

which

flanked

the

its

its

appears

its sides

of

in
to

into

the

say.

seems

castle

the

foot of

bridge

narrow

know, be among

rock

islet

materials

as

famous

of the

what

brickwork

of

uncertainty

it had

at the

also, apparently,a good deal

artificial.

though

aught

stronghold

and

castle

matter

I hesitate

quantity

Moreover,

Of

turrets.

is the

egg-likeshape

shadowed

grey

This

sky.

by

me

things American,

immense

an

stone

of lava

parts.

the

from

behind

composed,

like many

me,

clearer

built,joined to the mainland

Pizzofalcone

is

in dark

looming

and

sea

called

so

towering

two

dell' Ovo

clear

301

POMPEII.

TO

of masonry

the

dell'

NAPLES

it becomes

is natural

and

roughly laminated,

with

some

thousands

has

been

haunting

as

of mediaeval

oyster-shells.
The

night

Castel
for

hill of the

ago,

for does

necromancy

grim

six
fifty-

Castle

It

was

hours.

of the

Egg,

the

on

or

old

by
that

fortalice,over
fascination

so

over

the
my

and
me.

that it is

help

scowling on

define

the

and

distant
cheerful

were

never

not

but

years

standing by

as

"

devil

again ;

I have

it

"

impossible to

of the

window
over

is the

Froissart, five hundred

to

chronicler

sea,

Vesuvius

day

me

mystery, gloomy, occult,

near

mystery

the

not

devoutly wishing
haunted

Ovo

Pizzofalcone, is the

terrible.

enchantment

by

last

the
The

mystery.

and

dell'

take

it but

have

opposite

it has

closed the

been
this

exercised
shutters

302

drawn

nor

Were
in

I to

ostrich

has

the

curtains

shut

it out

dreams,

my

of

egg

been

stabbed

and

and

It

this

in

not

do

does

not

not

as

"

store.

explore

to

the

apartment
with

their

occupied by
Lares

bravi,

and

torches

and

but
the

should

its interior

of

and

lemures,

as

"

and
and

of

the
castle

cell

in

black

execution

of

ladies

and

faithless

many-

official

an

officer of

an

"Minghetto"

may

once

may

slaves
and

necromancers

velvet

of

as

have

penitent artillerymen

which

conspirators,cowled

kind

Naples

two

Roman

information

dell' Ovo

find

of

military

have

to

smoking

or

that

or

have
Saracen

alchemists,

capuchins bearing

intoning alarming penitentialpsalms,

immediate

the

and

to

Joanna

in

insubordinate

masked

implacable

had

Robert

Castel

like

Brunswick,

offences

by

the

not

Queen

expiating

pirates.

merry

Lucullus

chapel

But

enigma

where
Otho

been

been

from

merrymakings,

barrack

me.

prefer

Pmigolo

Sir

supped

the

Bersaglierireading
in

It is

architectural

Sphynx.

permisso

have

flung

have

egg.

the

in

paint

guide-books tell

an

chambered

to

most

dungeons,

maintain.

antiquaries

matter.

much

set

roc's

in the

been

may

poison

frescoes.

much

the

now,

castellated

Giotto

vanished

mystery

there

Yet

in its

huge

much

persons

it

see

heart,

How

have

or

should

my

many

languished

bay

some

once,

long

prison

how

chambers,

into the

employed

some

have

costumes

on

rocky nightmare.

in its inner

there,

Wise

lying heavy

there, I wonder

confronting me.

that

but

not

it

nights,banquets, festivals,masques,

what

villa

SOUTH.

first found

doubt
it

"

its battlements

days

history

drunk

DUE

since

find

or

picturesque of
been

JOURNEY

and

diamonds,
young

beautiful

ordering

gentlemen

in

304)

the

have

waiters

but

he

does

not

travellers

by

will

He

to the

his

tongued.

Is

in

Genseric,

Venice

Turin

not

Theodoric
Alemanni

the

longer

rule

in

beyond
the

in

the

modern

fond

of

the

politically
; but

to

land, while
the

And

barbarians
to

the

the

the

in

so,

journey that

Annunziata

longer
On

natives

of the

Italian

we

travellingworld

peasant

sinking

came

upon

well

certain

indeed

the

in

statues

art ; but

fat and

are

they

opulent

lack

of

of

pence

people.

set forth

all the

of

the pressure

the

bright, clear, crisp, and

morning,

ever

Baruch

up

of

under
"

from

contrary, they

in this

quattrini"

That

than

"

break

the

groan

no

man

nicely

collectingworks

di

mass

strong

very

nicely indeed

very

mancanza

vexes

1748,

do

no

ground.

and

Tedeschi

company

doing

are

"

"

after-breakfast

year

in"

and

Veneto.

the

and

Alaric,

Huns

financiallystronger

Vitiges

miserable

the

eternal

which

and

be multi-

Vitiges, in

the

German

Rome

Vandals, the

and

mental
detri-

is

to

Milan

Dominio

building villas

still continue

business

the

The

Colloquial

for the

As

Attila, in

sociallyand

cities

d'hote.

and

is

States.

dangerous'spirit

think

standing

Italy.

rase

or

"

is all.

may

Peninsula,

Posilipo

that

extinct, you

Lombardy

Alps

United

Naples Totila, in

Goths

be, historicallyand

may

the

fosters

Florence

The

are

from

it is his

in

name

in

or

part of the forestiere, and

Italy himself,

in

porter

Isles

of the table

interests

Ollendorff;

of

study

acquisitionof foreign tongues

German

or

the

on

the

to

little French

Italian

independence

hotel

British

the

tolerate

familiaritywith
of

the

encourage

from

just

devoted

been

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

to

make

has
in

gloriously sunny
once

made
field

painted

more

the

since, in the
near

chamber

Torre

dell'

containing

FROM

and

statues

and

other

that

myself, as

their

looked
that

like

the

thousands

many

this

modest

of

escorted

of

bore

coachmen

by

which

road, their occupants

actuated

that

Robinson

and

race

in the

whole

buried

past.

and

Tsars

have

must

beauty
the

mail
on

guided
the

"

world

of the

people

phaeton,

the

road.

universal,

desire

has

as

scenery

and
not

The

we

and

their
so

much

only

and, it would

in

no

to

were

pleased myself,

with

thinking

by

satin- skinned

hussars, and

the

of

this lava- strewn

gazing

now,

Not

doctor's

dirt

vehicles

seem,

inevitable

Show
a

in

marvellous
and

or

squalor
not

passed

sight

tram

long-

archdukes,

brougham,

gig,met

wheeled

Jones,

causeway.

the

on

amazing

dwellings.
a

motive

curious

most

princes and

as

self-same

elevated

disentombment

more

on

preceded

the

over

queens,

the

who

resplendent liveries,

more

see

diet,

garments

generations the Brown,

savoured

kaisers, kings and

gazed,

by

for

"

travelled

sights,the

of

salt of the earth

The

of

has

which

had

nether

drawn

and

by glitteringcuirassiers

of

individual

an

eastward,

grandiose equipages

price, driven

article

to the

us

and

pantaloons displaying

of his fellow-citizens

by dashing outriders,

than

by

his

repair common

turnout

hundreds

horses

of

pleased

structure

an

as

driven

decayed schoolmaster,
state

been

which, considering

osseous

oats

cleverly,and

very

imperfect

so

as

work

its fellows.

of their

unfamiliarity with

apparent

dred
hun-

sightseers has

little steeds

development

than

more

stable
shabby-genteel livery-

plucky

two

Rosinante-like

did

of

by

and

in

along

For

of

great army

chamber

painted

rattled

we

landau, drawn

their

the

305

POMPEII.

TO

objects of antiquity.

thirtyyears

flockingto

the

NAPLES

cars

us

the

were

few

306

market

full of

carts

the

wains

little local
from

individuals

swarthy
had

eleven

to

London,

E.G.,

with

be

red

bimbi

completed by

bunch

of wild

met

never

stable, has
and
he

asses,

has

have

keep

with

any

to

done

do

very

horse.

high,

vehicle

with

of

his

who

wretched, weedy

in the

the load may

and

salt fish, and

of

being

drawn

land

with

by

wheels

little

who,

he

his

between

of the
mules

forerunners

The

formation
con-

slightlyfavourable

large,

downwards,

has

all events,

centuries.
is

he

even

at

"

over

the

away

intimacy

it, as

many

very

"

screw

does

moreover,

are

"

in the

humanity

how

slant

to drive

horses, and

where

work, and

shafts

said

to all appearance

bells

brazen

single

spirits. Possibly

common

say

The

lot.

good

friend

shandrydan,

the

his

in

shall

The

plump

count

not

bundle

merrily, are

equine

him

of the
to the

do

make-weights,

as

the

him

treated

for

laughing girl in

Babies

mattress,

tinkle

may

are

Saffron-hill,

on

gold earrings, and

and

two

brigands,

been

once

in size, desperately attenuated, but

told

got

in

celery;

collar,which

flies, and

least

shandrydan.

discontented

not

not

double,

umbrella.

flock

horse, diminutive

his

coral

thrown

are

bent

woman

cotton

of such

cargo

The

old

an

had

of

coiiibinazione

folk, comprising at

they

with

wondrous

the

organ-grinders dwelling

large pair of

priest with
human

if

cabbages, pumpkins,

and

out

darting

eyes,

of

conveying

country

certainly been

rags

merchandise

each

who,

load

ubiquitous

the

long spitlikegoads

with

armed

shandrydans,

nine

each

on

probe suspicious

to

sharpest of

the

cess

and

tomatoes,

or

which

claim

to

which

vegetableproduce, on

municipal taxgathererskept
upon

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

the

and
them

axle-pole is

altogether the
seems

to

be

NAPLES

FROM

less

dragging the

The

think

to

who

personages
I

"

the

former

and

white

and

Brussels

the

road

all

short
who

lady

and

ask

far it is to

1815,

the

the

crying to

to

al

grasping

he

and

as

the

it to the vault

had

fell the

stout

lady

in the

shot

who
"

far
who

Save

my

church

the
at

it

Can

are

from

we

becoming

is

how

of

death

as

hat

face, aim
of

and

in

from

the

law

brained
hare-

and

feathers.

where,

who

meanest

which

public

at my

his wife

Brunswick,

by judges

his executioners,

miniature
in

furred

captured

virtue

to

were

Royal

asking myself

am

promoted

by

was

her

barouche

How

Joachim,

condemned

is the

is that

his lost realm, tried

he

dell'

Calabria, where, in October,

of

coast

Who

it be

Who

of the

where

of Torre

left.

companion,
But

recover

cuore,"

end

Can

Show

great hat and feathers

Bergami

his wife

in diamonds

the

see

eye

gold embroidery,

the

Wales

mind's

my

Bonaparte

the

to

dickey

King

soldiers

viso, mirate

the

enacted,

the

made

my

of his power

himself

at

of

of

hear

on

stations, and

had

quitted

pelisseand

in the

discrowned

days

to

coachman.

Pizzo

attempt
in the

[going

is

Princess

name

In

glorious

Royal couple ?

person

destination,

hungry,

Ay

the

party by the

is

velvet

Caroline

whiskered

our

of

in

latter

illustrious

the

and

moustaches,

are

detour

accompanies

Highness

be

They

Castellammare

florid

ously
is obvi-

subject it

Caroline

; the

plumes

and

coaches

and

whiskers,

lace.

Annunziata,

the

on

journey !

this

Murat

ostrich

to

horse

sumptuous
made

have

Joachim

King

see

the

of

the

of

momentum.

own

ascertain.

impossible to
But

its

pushed along by

cart than

private sentiments

307

POMPEII.

TO

"

he

enemy,

Salvate

al

heart," and
children

far

is

How
seven

years

308

.after she

had

in the

Palazzo

Queen

of

Keale

England
has

Everybody
with

sington, with
Mathews

the

Lytton
the
a

well

in

of course,

and

of

sum

the

the

the

Highness

Baron

"

tradesman

he

considered

of
!

Davies."

Prince

of

Prince
Now

you

stay

of

will

have, of

in

Naples,
modest

Visitors'

his

to

noble

and

Prince

Baron

"

the

Cambridge, Thalberg

Paul

the

for

in

Such

of

speaking,

am

resting
exceptionallyinte-

an

Consort,

Duke

to

sinking

of view.

contained

Palmerston,
the

Poniatowski,

me,

due

was

formerly belonging

Our

Lord

be

to

Bulwer

Show

who

short

Syracuse.

George

the

peasant

my

James

Edward

see

offered

autographs,

Count

and

everybody,"

say

old

1848,

Montijo, Lablache,
Arthur

Delavigne,
To

hut
Bles-

Lady

Charles

and

dandy

visiting-listpoint

of

Brunnow,

Joseph

Caroline,

of

and

Lord

befell the

year

Prince

Joachim

King

Lady Hamilton,

"

"

autographs
of Hesse,

the

book-hunting during

the

of

the coffin

and

object.

same

When

150f., what

for

Queen;

which

collection
Book"

and

Casimir

worthy

very

Nelson

d'Orsay

actor

from

been

course,

Count

field.

here.

King

accident

happy

hust

laid

Naples, was

at

been

all with

"

the

Bourhon

laurel

with

crowned

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

guished
distinWilliam

the

Decazes,
the

Ossuna,

pianist,
Prince

Countess

Wiirttemberg

understand

Eoyal

what

and

of

"Jones

I meant

by

everybody.
But

to-day

there

poverty-stricken
the

proclamation

canza

Portici

di
to

of
of

Neapolitans ;

but
in

the
every

hopeless indigence

quattrini."
Torre

nobody

was

"

Everywhere

del Greco

handsome

it

of

was

villas

and

most

squalid

other

face written

the
the
are

"eterna
same.

scattered

man-

From

along

FKOM

both

sides of the

and

the

in

Paris

holes

noble

of

Florence.

purchases

of the

all

farthings. They
which
to

go

tell
be

can

to

fists and

yellingfrom

barking

hens, wondrous
the

of

to

and

which

generally end
with

of

the

"

strumming

the

vocalisation

from

and

the
is

"

movimento

the

of

the

some

into

lean

"

giftedwith

Ah

! che

la

Morte

"

the

what

up

tattered

is

The

and

gelled
cud-

anticipatorybraying.

and

he

to

transactions,

overladen

"

Neapolitans

the

undying,

of souls.

should
back

anonymous

that

cackling of
tethered

in the

"movimento"

some

of

dren
chil-

of

it," and neigh.

being

hallucination

shouting

in

quite complete you

guitar in

of

"

ways
door-

in

shaking

horses

The

making

five of

merce
pettiestcom-

and

fro of this half million

and

to

burst

towards

terming

swaying, surging
make

they

modities
com-

are

wrangling

cocks

of

in themselves

things go

fond

so

the

few

fro, a chattering and

lively interest

ready-

for

fingers,a howling

hear.

to

making

centesimi, and

constant

forges are

sticks, and

All these
are

and

to

there

Naples

to and

of extended

exhibit

asses

remained

exceed

not

continuityof

going

bishing
rub-

generally

two

dogs, crowing

see

mules

for

This

of blacksmiths'

doors

in

here

but

are

poor

high-up garret windows,

throwing-out

and

that

ends,

never

The

life.

may

bought

vended

were

bargains

incessant

an

gesticulatingthat
and

me

little black

the

and

Home,

in

or

multitudinous

the

are

their

Naples

in

these

halfpenny.

leads

and

residence,

for villa

time

no

necessitous

day long,

although

money,

these

where

picture of Neapolitan

up

this is

Only the poor

unglazed shops
needments

make

; but

wealthy proprietorsare

or

in

or

road

309

POMPEII.

TO

NAPLES

throw

tutta

in

yard, and

caitiff,who
a

To

baritone

gola.

suffers
voice
Please

310

also

whining
the

of

the

at

saints

wheels

maledictions

if
"

obtaining some
the

to

quarter of

every
stands

in

local

snuff.

He

their

keeps

window

takes

his

stand

himself

with

"

integrally

secrets

scowling from

umbrella

has

He

the

but he is

"

the

sea

two

hours'

been

people
discreet

that

does

carefully as

as

his

all about

secrets

of

in front

leisurely pinch of

knows

their

priest,who

old

with

watched

is

usually

"

this

that

movimento."

He

long.

Ovo

it is

"

of

hopes

in mind

shabby

his

the

misery,

shrill

huge,

opposite

my

yonder.
reached

We

to time

and

road

sected

by

and

tellammare,
about

the

yelping
ascent

than

fish to

door

for

of Mount
to

make

fry.

In

Vesuvius,
that

and

of the

the

I have

Monte

inn-parlour we

road

no

and

lava

very

inn,

monstrosities
to make

us

the

intention

more

di Pieta.

had

Cas-

to

well-remembered

guides imploring

which

train

dell' Annunziata.

beggars

many

dered
ren-

passed through

Torre

the

the

spatteringof

left from

at

drive,

by

had

we

the

to

several

and

the

But

hung

liberal

too

stopped

of which

alms,

somewhat

away

had

slightlyuncomfortable

del Greco,

turned

had

last, after

at

wheels.

Torre

Portici, Eesina,
we

the

passing

from

Then

bourne

our

time

from

do

life

dell'

Castle

grimy

he

little

roadway

all about

their

wants,

by

so

regaling

knows

cleric, and

mud

and

bear

to

their

contribute

They

cease

of the

it all his

watching

or

that

f armada

his arm,

under

"

middle

the

invocations

mainly penniless humanity

mile

whose

in

disappointed

Nor

monstrosities

astonishing rapidityto

piccolamoneta."

noisy and

of

with

are

movimento."

"

tohu-bohu

the

they

and

fheforestieri, and

of

changed

are

beggars

unwashable

forget the

to

not

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

bad

have

and

to

other
very

XXIV.

SHOW

THE

OF

PAST.

LONG-BURIED

THE

he

to

esteemed

imagine
the

the

London

Public

the
the

of

be

to

the

Fiorelli,
there

embellishments

found

latest

in

and

been

and

Pansa,

the

ples,
Tem-

of

the

works

of

little
of

that

can

Pompeii,

be

by

added

lately

to

Baths,
the

of

abundance

in

and

Gell,
of

Over-

the

vations
exca-

Signer

Giuseppe

at

Pompeii;

Researches

the

Pollux

Street

description

officially promulgated
of

the

Dyer,

accurate

most

Faun,

Stabian

the

details

artistic

and

and

Castor

and

the

of

Diomed,

Theatres,

Superintendent
is

of

Houses

Amphitheatre,

the

Archaeological

has

while

the

smaller

and

Exchange,

in

architectural

Basilica,

the

and

Forum

the

the

fireside

the

all

of

of

edifices

own

your

him

upon

"

Poet,

greater

from

master

Regent's

the

in

the

of

account

enters

one

as

inflicting

of

stirring

yourself

Baths,

Tragic

Tombs.

beck

Without

Pompeii

of

intention

detailed

much

Society

turned

floor,

second

very

Zoological

make

can

Pompeii

slightest

city.

the

to

should

mistaken

considerably'

be

ascended

Koyal

the

the

you

features

are

entered

of

buried

long

the

and

approaching

anything

the

having

have

Park,

of

that,

right,

gardens

will

reader

17.

December

NAPLES,

the

reproduced

beauty

of

in

chromo-

the

LONG

BURIED

313

PAST.

antiquary, M.

French

learned

the

lithography by

OF

SHOW

THE

Gaston

Boissier.
Add

to these

which
stimulate
"Last

of
of

image
untravelled

is

that, after

of
kind

main

of

have

you

is, perhaps,

to the

first

of your

the

were

shops
steer

remain
their

Who

? the

How

streets

open?

vehicles

and

settingfoot

the

In

lighted

at

One

night ?
the

between

the

huge

floor ?

Had

or

seeing,
sight-

richesses

street, with
chariot-

for

whole

from

the

the

moment

third

How

late

blocks
and

did the

contrive

of lava
kerb

story above
floor ?

to

things Pompeian.

charioteers

kerb
had

thing
some-

of

by

city to

of these

did

second

be

incessantlypresented

How

houses

present

the way

rutted

the

in

Why

to

should

day.

be

should

weather

any

revisited.

interrogation,since

say

stepping-stones between
many

and

see,

something higher

pavement

formed

How

to

embarras4de

an

in

further
But

contemplative spirit,suffice

quittingit, there

the

How

Pompeii

interrogation.

of your
you

"

do

"

to

wheels, should,

moment

add

I may

perhaps

shops, taverns,

its houses,

week's

hither

the

lantern.

apprehend, ought

coming

to

be

to

just

of curiosity.
gratification

mere

indeed, there
when

in

able
respect-

very

I wished

I have

years,

Lytton's

presented

magic

that

Pompeii

mind

from, and

different

be

graphs,
photo-

Naples

at

of Lord

enough

and

which, I

purpose

itself to the observant

than, the

lecture

sixteen

lapse of

definite

of

as

that

me

citymight

image

an

means

the

not

The

disentombed

eye ;

London

reading

it strikes

and

Pompeii,"
a

developed by
that

imagination by

your

collection

good

easilyprocurablein

as

are

Days

materials

ample

Were

the

to

which

in

rainy
ground

the

roofs

314

flat

beams

did the

No

have

to

yet

habitations

of the

been

discovered.

Were

them

at

bread

least

it

and

from

the

crust

dug

out

with

"

speak,

potted

by

of the

One

present day
to

street

the

; for

the

available
the

is, so

been

for the
last

to

in the

been

tinued
con-

united

works

few

and

lire,voted

of 60,000

sum

within

lapilli,

excavations

have

Fiorelli

modest

and
it

be

to

antiquaries,not

Italy has

since

and

you

from

house

of

the

archaeologicaland
and

decker,

admirable

of

those

Guide

"

before

handbook

to

and

But

excellent

to the

after

whatsoever

in

carried
the

in

years

your

Museum
your

to

the

Pompeii

rambles

not

that

from

would

street

would

advise

mentors
at

visit

place

and

Naples
to

"

you
of

to

Mr.

to your

Pompeii.

itself.

If

with

disparage

Murray,

of

the

at

altogetherto dispense

house

book

visit to

topographical merits

Harper.

study

able

are

guide

of

charms

is that

assistance

hours

Cavaliere

done

foremost

the

your

remains

all, in which
of

lation
popu-

pauper

discovery.

of

way

been

have

wonders

any

city yet

future

Legislature,is annually

the

on,

the

although only

and

above

imminent
of

able
highly-fashion-

pumice, scoriae,tufa,

intermission

without
free

the

the

of

state

stripes,gave

many

the

appear

left in

poor

by

was

edification

for the

direction

the

under

"

in

but

remote,

of

or

of

tract

vegetablemould

foot

two-

vast

the

destitute

watering-placeof Pompeii
But

And,

utterlyindigent

attended

was

lodging ;

at all ?

coachhouses

and

wooden

tiles to the

live ?

poor

slavery which, albeit

of

stables

the

of

traces

SOUTH.

covering of

the

were

all, where

above

as

Where

there

Was

slanting?

or

DUE

JOURNEY

Baeconfine

Rolfe's
studious

Bring
you

do

no

you

THE

will

lose,

one

eye,

than

SHOW

far

so

the

London

is

the

concerned,

orh

remaining

be

will

you

their

performances

worthy people

of

Moliere

seemed
actresses

whose

which

to

sight

of

little better

the

observable

when

the

translation

Herr

Barnay

Have

you

kind

of

sky

and

and

shade
the

Patti

thing

instead

students
in

at

temples

of

past

pillars,these

with

the

of

You

the

wickedness
the

their

the

vaults

miss

subtle

These

play

of
do

in

in which

seat

the

this

half the
of

light

the great columns

inattentive

to the

ful,
watchvisit

to

fresco-painted walls,

in the

the

of his wrath.

dried-up fountains,

judgment

Koyal

lines

will

will be

fiery torrent

leg-bones yet
the

the

not

and

their

footlights.

ready, perhaps,

"

Lane.

to what

yonder, always present,

gladiators'barracks,

beneath
"

villas.

guide-book.

no

in

Basilica

the

with

sinfulness

vaults

and

of Vesuvius

monitions

battered

of half

the

should
you

the roofless tenements

among

Bring

do

If you

Pompeii.

was

stalls at the

following
You

and

actors

attending

behind
the

in

who

conning

on

of

about

were

and

Drury

at

intent

singing ?

was

unconscious

be

mindful

found

lady

seen

while

libretto

fresh

Schiller

copies

phenomenon

appeared

were

Opera equally assiduous

Italian

silent

of

his fellows

and

not

audience

the

to

curious

same

numbers
the

on

to

came

vast

them,

attention

Meiningeners

the

large portion of

English

The

stage.

by

with

brought

scant

very

first

generallyfixed

was

had

Francaise

witnessed

were

gaze

they
but

pay

on

Comedie

the

of

troupe

of

of

the

315

PAST.

parcel-blind.

When

observation

as

with

and

LONG-BURIED

OF

these

which

shackles
of

the

malefactors

these

geons
darkling dunskeletons

; these

were

dreadful

Praetor

lay while

in

the
their

316

fate

deliberated

being

was

should

These

grand result

the

in

leaps

the

mind

your

like the

up

the

leaps into

to

seem

you

armed

hear, and

to

in

visitingPompeii

stay

at

home

possibleof

is

will leave

you

Naples

at

the

will

duties

find

all been

have

They have

"

to

point

vestibule"

tylum,"
the
the

"

out

the

"

supplied
worthy

all been

they
with

Dry Bones

ago

"

life that

"

be

such

your

respectfullycounsel

you

Gaston

study

to

to

take

you

by

you
wear

"

or

cubicula,"

"

or

the

over

bedrooms,

the

reality,
hotel

your

by

the

notable
the

Cavaliere

house,

the

court,

the

or

They
shrine
the

its
can

of

are

localityof

tablinum," the
with

present

gence.
general intelli-

"atrium"
"

and

official and

their

for
and

garden

dining-room.

or

at

as

military uniform

exactitude

thereof,the

midst

much

as

Baedecker

or

and

Boissier,

carefullydrilled

the library,the
picture-gallery,
"

of

character

good

simple

viridarium

triclinium

gods, the

Valley

and

not

fellows

waiting-room,

or

in the

impluvium

dead,

be

soldiers,being selected

Fiorelli, and, when

able

made,

sufficiencyof topographical

of their

account

on

Harper,

or

These

living guides.
and

is

suggestiveness of Pompeian

infinite

information

architectural

tation
incan-

to

If

anxious

laudably

Murray,

; you

M.

Fiorelli,and

rest, if

the

I should

last the

revelation

years

in

drinking

ceases

feel.

to

plishing
accom-

by the fireside diligentlyconsulting Gell

Dyer, the Cavaliere

For

the

eighteen hundred

life of
see,

in

men

and

at

the

city suddenly

object
to

until

these

"

towards

you

absorbing

accomplished, the spellworks,

is

and

of

above

judges

help

Pompeii,

saturating yourself with

and

will

that

"

the

by

upon

teachers.

be your

SOUTH.

DUE

JOUKNEY

"

peris-

fountain, and
direct

the

to

you

household

quarters for the

gen-

318

objects differingnot

saw

you
in

actual

use

Annunziata.
you

bending
round

the

under

loaves

of

Here,
round

to

You

call

this

to

vendible

behind

at

the

the
the

Naples,

cattle-bells

and

door

will

same

rude

calcined

the

hundred

of

town

"

the

the

pots and
last the

hinges, the

locks

screws,

clamps,

the

interest

bronzes, the most

far

beautiful

to
of

very

image

Museum
fetches"

"

stores

declare

that

fishhooks

and

the

modern

the

Abruzzi;

drinking-pots

of Russian

keys, the

few

marine
I

79.

; the

sell,but

to

vaster

trumpery

from

than

black

the

similar

pans

and

more

all

Zampognari

sieves, tongs, and

me

the

at

crowd

road

more

boilers, the

kitchen

among

the

something

A.D.

bagpipes exactly
use

line

look

find

which

wares

worth

all the

wares,

the

skillets and
urns

has

or

cases,

you

small

the
in

metal

and

small

to be

appears

precisely resembling French

and

ance.
appear-

eighteen

are

that

shops

seaport

spits,

infinityof

in these

Roman

hot-water
"the

squat

in

have

ashes
these

place. Everybody

Look

instrument
the

with

with

impressed

; and

cavernous

infinityof

of the

the

commodity

quattrini.

of

del Greco,

preciselythe

of

rows

are

whom

boy

Torre

slack-baked

red-hot

sable

mind

to

paltry little

Naples
no

covered

dell'

old.

years

the

uniform

board

muffins

pattern, only the

rose

loaves

case,

loaves, like

squat
"

glass

somewhat

bread,

in

of

baker's
of

these,

Torre

to

street

main

burden

from

form

sallow

lanky,

in

Portici

from

the

crawling along

saw

"

recollect

You

whit

one

road

the

on

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

and

samovars

children's

boxes,
money-

tirelires,the latches, bolts,

fire

than

shovels, the
do

some

nails

of the

and

finest

the
statues, the richest bas-reliefs,

THE

choicest

mural

yielded to
The
let

us

have

is, that

say

for

the

of

astonishment
limited
but

of

and

Midland

of

midst

of

an

down

all these

"

by Vitruvius,
in the

Acropolis.

Campagna

But

do

confronting,to

the

antiquity than

"

Salve"

design, or
as

the
Even

on

edifices

Potteries

Cornwall,

and

you

with
can

do

the

and

with

In

the

Museum

the

thian
Corin-

hotel
lines

nearer

in

laid
covered
dis-

of

the

to

the

diagnosing

of

Canem"

of

"classic"

figuresexecuted

it ?

acknowledged masterpieces of antique art

themselves.

all

in

models

"Cave

coal-scuttle
Etruscan

platform

any

probing

doormat

the

on

the

on

hall

town

with

bring

plagiarisedor absolutely forged, over

ancients

have

mediocrity,

composite

or

it; than

pickle-jar adorned

of

duly designed

of Rome

measuring

the

to

exquisite islets

as

in

court

accordance

in

kamptulicou

Staffordshire
the

such

inscribed
a

or

modern,

Doric

Lancashire,
be

may

in

comparatively

ocean

county

in

joint-stock bank

but

are

fraud.

Ionic

discovered,

and

immeasurable

an

ture
sculp-

great artists of antiquity; but

genius

downright

Counties,

Yorkshire

the

Roman

mosaic, have

world.

Renaissance

nations

comparatively

and

and

"

antiquityof

heen

the

of

delight

manifestations

plagiarism, and

civilised

"

sort.

centuries

four

Renaissance

less sham

or

decoration

of masters,

the

more

structural

successfullyrivalled

in
glittering

years

masterpieces of Greek

these

number

these

of

the

of

dawn

hundred

four

atmosphere

an

the

architecture, mural

course

has

ashes-engulphed Pompeii

since

ever

nearly

number

and

3.19

PAST.

light.

fact

restricted

LONG-BURIED

that

pictorial,plastic, and

or

paintings

the

lived in

OF

SHOW

and
at

over

have

been

again, by the

Naples

there

are

at

320

least half-a-dozen

more

de

Medicis,

Pompeii
of

itself

the

But

and

that

the

since

in the

been

ending procession
of Hercules
Pan

of

are

Naples.

You

and

the

Nymphs,

the

of

Venus
In

majority

altogether ludicrous.
aged

at

coloured

"

have

really gems
grow

would

you

of

weary

long

never-

of Bacchus,
Mars, of allegories

deliveringDejanira, of

and

contains

which

of Venus

badness

plain and twopence

penny

to

Venus.

immensely

"

of the

Crouching

something
so

paintings

removed

the

artistic

is

pictures are

The

category.

thorough

SOUTH.

piratedimitations

of

many

paintings

place them

once

less

or

as

the

fresco

DUE

JOURNEY

Bacchantes

of Adonis

Castor

and

Pollux

when

you

contemplate

in

holding

just hatched

the

their

cups,

which

nest

from

the- eggs

of

Leda.

Truly,

and

clumsily drawn,
rate

journeyman

school

Greek

of

tell when

can

upon

and

length brought
tenth-rate

The

immoral

us

"

of

this

Judge
their

daubs

of

at

the

their

been

viction
con-

origin

lost,no

third,

the

least

in many

know,

sculptured

daily life,and

the

exquisitely beautiful

nay,

man

they

as

respects

appear

and

have

evidences

of

at

the

provincialtown.

honest, and

nobility,gentry,
we

had

third-

some

point of understanding

people ;
the

by

stages of degeneracy have

advent

the

"

poor

pictured and

of their

these

house-painter in

point

"

provincialtown,

pattern has

shop-signs are

the
of

one.

the

from

left

to

manners

Pompeii

the

about

Pompeian

the

successive

journeyman

something
and

But

art.
;

that

you

rubbishing frescoes,

scamped

undiscoverable, and

remote,

some

"

execution

house-painter in

is forced
in

in

these

tell you
the

ways

sufficiently

bourgeoisieof
said, nothing

which

to have

they
been

"

have
com-

THE

munity

SHOW

daughters

the

had

are

flauntingin

the

condition

rotten

animalism.

of

gambling dens,
much

there

in the
And

yet

of the
to

by

the

in

the

buried

this

sticks of charcoal
finders

theatres, the

"

Treatise

in

the

and

Virtue

few

people

lives.

and
in

How

not

and

Virtue

of

they

life of

Pompeii

or

an

thoughtless

among

sometimes

and

the

who

the

Naples

been

was

man
gentle-

first mistaken

at

eyes

essa}rs
were,

the

Perhaps

in the

must

Pompeians

museum

blackened

so

on

by

the

Music,

then,

on

least

at

for

ignorant

books

two

thought decently and

eruption.
us

had

modern

lived

of

Vice
some

cleanly

the

homilists
to

on

the

Vice

sition
compo-

days immediately preceding

For
needs
had

mysteries of Pompeii,

themselves

preferentiallydevoted

earthquake

worse

Pompeian

the hundred

There

revealed.

edifyingworks

the

wine-shops,

and

to

up

translatingthe papyri

were

That, among

many

that

containing

Rhetoric.

on

yet been

has

that

papyri

legible to

Music"

on

seem

exchange,

banqueting-halls, the

destroyed by

made

have

"

"

and

streets, all

79 ?

city

heat

of

action

which

plebeians equally given

laboriouslyunrolling,deciphering, and
found

shameful

; the

see

and

theatres

tenements

in the

patient palaeographers in

the

wives

left the

gladiators'haunts,

of grace

year

horrible

their

or

allowed

the

the

than

more

The

societyaltogether depraved, corrupt,

basilica, the

the

temples,

walls

light of day

baths,

The

which

entered

the

patricians and

of

"

checks

not

321

PAST.

sensuality.

they

as

visitors

denote

the

in

paintings on

lady

emblems

and

LONG-BURIED

ivory pass

take

to

abominable

modern

to

literallywallowing

inscriptionson

the

OF

the

merriest

listen
their

to

and
the

an

most

preacher

pulpit in Vesuvius,

o22

Sermons

yonder.
Penitential

and

sulphur

and

incited

Eome

and

again

otherwise

city, lovely and

museum,

travail.
in

the

over

is

Who

Pompeii

fittings and
and

of

The
are

A.D.

79,

whole
there

are

horses,

mules,

ruins.

modern

little

are

earth

serious,

who
draw

to

visited
some

up

population

times

in

by

who

amount

an

civilised

any

mortal
but

said, the aspect

The

cases.

looks

the

walls

of the

its

and

Death,
are

the

and

dogs, cats,

and

all

museum

the
are

on

women,

dug

oaken

that

sudden, violent, and

poultry,

tired

fishhooks

nuts

face with

of men,

the

nor

polished

cheerful, yet

skeletons

blue,

grows

local

pans,

fruits

face to

me

ever

been

was

heat

carbonisation, but they

bright
of

him

with

and

sky

the

been

had

we

The

pots and

loaves

from

which

felt neither

object before

an

local

things, had

hours.

we

little

smart

these

three

has

black

the

thought

quite,brought

mementoes
round

calcined

room

Hanged

there
upon

vice with

every

glistens, it gleams

stirrups,the
not

of

city through

I have

glass

almost, but

Horace,

improvement

in

brightly ;

As

life of devils

whole

for

that

It

smart.

attained

mind, while

blazed

sun

that

of

rascally Naples only excepted.

quietlytrudging
the

of

corporeally present

my

wandering

time

red-hot

by

Service

these

Pompeians

cultivated

have

to

Although

tlie

for

rarely

success

the

enforced

Commination
as

live the

made

the

in

Pompeii

seem

such

who

have

terrible.

were

Syrian philosopher, Philodemos,

the

little tracts

neat

and

reminders

for those

and

now

may

of

steam

they

collects

pumice,

boiling lava,

of

of Wrath

Days

of

SOUTH.

frequent, but

not

were

psalms

scoriae, litanies

DUE

JOUPxNEY

have

people
comely.

every

side

terrible.

infants,
from

the

324

tumbled

has

And

of

side,
hair

sixteen
that

so

fixed in

These
but

the

aqua

of their

made

the

entombment.

then
bodies

which

detail

been

human.

superintending
his workmen

the

that

And

with

his

sounded, and by-and-by

of

tarsus

or

instantlyoccurred

that

human

long-since
mould

body

indurated

which

should

corpse.

poured through

mass

the

brought

was

astute

mind

of

filled that

once

of

pumice
an

exact

plaster

of

and

into

of

one

cavity
was

vertebra,

the

surface.

Cavaliere

Fiorelli

to

had

ashes

imprint

aperture of the cavity.

what

cavity

cavity,and

Paris

mained,
re-

of

by

"

present

Liquid

told

The

from

Fiorelli,

vestigesof mortality

metacarpus

had

form

struck

of

mould

Cavaliere

dimensions.

some

to the

external

had

centuries

fell away

scavi, was
he

paste,

sharply-

sharp

day

the

pickaxe

became

the

the
one

of

progress

considerable

of

apparently

of

fine

it surrounded.

bones

dust, but

to

the

pumice, the
a

eighteen

decayed, the

turned

body

and

heated

But

the

which

the

came

the

the

wore

moment.

corpse

days, dried,

some

The

once

of the

imprint

retaining every

It

in

round

formed

and

mould,

bone

which

garments

"

they

each

the

ligaments

her

all nude

are

death

by

ashes

defined

down

vanish

to

death

violent

rank

and

time

paste, after

had

and

stricken

and

received

This

one

on

features, and

innocent

permeating

and

little

bollante, the boiling vapour

scoriae
which

turned

face

sweet

sudden

of
were

calcined

ashes

in

girlishcoquetry.

they

garments

there

exquisitely-formed young

her

her

see

died

and

ground,

the

ragazza,

can

you

images

when

the

on

seventeen,

or

SOUTH.

DUE

face foremost

moment.

girl

JOURNEY

of

the

that
formed

The

grated
disinte-

brought

was

the

and

plaster was

THE

allowed

SHOW

and

gently removed,
suddenly
In

turned

only

paradox

and

harden,

to

of
be

can

death

pardoned

with

There
collar

vestibule

of

open,

its limbs

the

signs of

neck,

almost

in

of the

and

wrenched

been

pain having

hard,

fore-

supplication;

in

suffered

died

stretched-out
of

manner

the

ere

the

of

back, its mouth

its

The

side

has

dog

on

fied
lique-

dog which,

the

by

attitude

an

of

body

poor

lies

of

physical suffering

found

was

The

and

is twisted

life

if the

"

bucketful

acute

violentlycontorted.

frame

of fearful

of

means

in its agony

over

crossed

whole

strangely resuscitated

patrician'shouse.

rolled

are

by
any

its

was

revealed.

reproduction

round

it has

paws

is

are

mould

surrounding

astonishing transcripts of
were

"

325

PAST.

the

hodies

these

plasterof Paris,
visible.

then

these

into

one

LONG-BURIED

OF

and

tive
sugges-

relief of death

"came.

So

up

down

houses

roofless
I

and

the

had

candidly confess

mind
of

out

death

classical
very

had
or

mentally, a

where, for
to

live

superb ;

but

again,

that

imagination.

my

number

years
to

meet

ago,

into

out

the

All

was

I could

the

the

were

was

not

unwished-for

I could

people

steamer

my

simulacra
of

tranquil,

very

in

the

the

purple

not

furnish

it ;

and,
to

in

me,

aspects, kaleidoscopic,
I

remember,

hurrying by railway from

Cunard

in

reverse

Vesuvius
all.

of

afternoon.

do, Pompeii persistedin assuming

of

the

and

moment,

empty, and

very

in

impressions produced

desperately commonplace.

twenty
town

main

archaeologicalnature.

all I could

spite of

but

seemed

looked

place in

the

Museum,

peaceful, and

distance
the

of the

that

till far

wandered

we

and

streets

narrow

bound

Dublin
for

than

more

to

Queens-

Boston,

and

326

asking

lamentahly

the

window

as

holes, unglazed
answer

had

in

the

I then

mood

frieze
"

and

But

the

walls

of

of that

I strove
allegories,

aware

delusion, another

daylight, and

long

very

and

the

board
more

over

and

the

peasants

peasant

radiant

do

dull

of

women

in

togas and

"

people

the

"

But

the

it with

the

tawdry

and

phantoms

the

only

am

eviction

Gardens

"

coarse,

the

by

plastic
bear

so

sand
twenty thou-

lamplighter had
looked

in

How

would

came,

at

mastery

began

auspices of

insignificant,the

orchestra

pictorialand

Vauxhall

scene-painting

Vauxhall

night

the

corated
de-

urge,

dispelthe

gained

the

the

spiriting,and

ball-room
the

to

performances

looked

under

reason

tenants-

when, staring hard

about

the

when

sheen

but

the

Alas

fresco.

might

wander

shabby

lamps
his

in

all my

before

which,

with

may

incongruous

ever

and

coarse

additional

and

with

you

embellishments

to

scales

been

which

from

circumstance,

quite as

Did

mind.

you

allegoriespainted

the

begun

Pompeii

assumed

Grseco-Italians

shebeen

not,

are

well

grandly

all

was

that

to have

hats, and

swarthy

Irish

an

too

and

Evictions"

largest of

tenements

parts

cavernous

easilyhave

more

bell-crowned

evicted

with

mean

the

on

three

mere

declare

from

sandals.

been

have

"

visible

than

windows

of

meaning

stones

more

And

look,

I could

type, than

Biddy"

tunics

my

"

dismantled

and

coats

and

question.

my

was

of the

late tenants

the

to

got

rough

untimbered.

and

the

was

cahins

"

doors

generally "evicted

the

in

Cork

neared

we

of

cahins

numerous

ruins, roofless,

the

what

travelling companion

my

the

in

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

not

very

statues

even

empty

paltry,

shell-shaped soundinggirncrack.

of Horace

You

Walpole

could

no

and

his

THE

frivolous
the
in

Prince

1814, than

I could

and

patricians
and

priests

who

Regent,

patronised

with

dancers,

actors,

praetors and

poets,

sullen

and

ladies

at Yauxhall

fete

grand

people Pompeii

Sovereigns and

Allied

of the

parasites, nohle

327

PAST.

LONG-BURIED

fashionables, and

of

set

OF

SHOW

slaves,
and

philosophers,

mummers,

courtesans.

Not

so,

luxuriant

hlond

and

had

been

carrying

and

from

time

entries

making

Speaking
the

than

lava-blocks, and
and

Greek

quotations
drill

not

business

evidently means

professor,probably

next
tomes

little

time
on

that

am

at

in

Rome

man

if I

come

Taschentiicher

the

gnadige

Attila, and

in

very

buried

erudite
and

the

that
in

guide

city.

sionally
occa-

functionary
"

his

He

of

course

good part.
is

Vitiges
possibly

archaeologist,and

turning

over

Library, I

Vitiges' latest
in

harder

accent

an

included

Loescher's
across

and

closelypreceded

son

with

lore, which

the

deeply

things antique at

surprised

Beniitzt

eldest

eyes,

note-book

him

peppering

take

to

thorough explorer,Vitiges.

been

having

failed

"

Latin

big

With

Totila, his

and

ever

sternlyattentive

carriage had

Naples.

turned-down

moment.

earnest

the

quite fluently,albeit

local

Pompeian

hired

niece.

his

Italian

with
the

His

slouched

hotel, at the Museum

with
out

of person,

he

in which

at the

"

general

from

way

Genseric

Fraulein

days

in

Byronically

note-book

pulling

Vitiges, gelorene

Frau

"

in

therein.

all the

ours

for

time

to

Vitiges

"

possibly of deeply

scrutinising things

"

heard

and

hulky

of him

aware

"

spectacles, and

pencilledmatters

anon

Yitiges, large

Vitiges

hair

of

hat, gold-rimmed
collar, and

with

perhaps,

Pompeii?"

the

newest

shall be
works
or

the

but
say,

"Die

328

des

Tragodien

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

verloren

sie

sind

Dichters,

tragischen

gegangen?"
We

did
We

family.

had

other

Abundance,

of

of

House

stares

and

used

by

in

which

scowls

But

about

was

day by day, Sundays

It

was

black
will

that

have

change

drew

found
of the

excepted, are

being

direction

in,

in

the

groups

frequently

more

head

been

not

scattered

we

summit

rich

was

party of

of
on

in
like

pumice

resembling

fitlyapply

so

piles of

many

vegetable

Pompeius,

Campus

summit

Picture

ourselves
excavations

with

patient

the

of

the

the

Cava-

the

of

black

than

Italian.

for

Why

bare

the

the

on

to

they

entrails

centuries.

chattering

should

its

verdure.

eighteen

seems

bank

caviare, but

standing

which

of

only

is

pumice

bright

quarry,

Neapolitan dialect,

Arabic

Russian

undisturbed

the

The

it.

to

kind

well, there

"

laying

were

soldier-guideswere
verge

yourself

to

and

mould

twenty labourers

some

group

sight.

most

exactly like

looked

more

cold

simile

of the

strange

of

quarry

other

small

Vesuvius,

came

the

of

Fiorelli.

liere

and

the

at

Street

afternoon

when

persistence pushed forward, under

one

who

the

shrines

four

band

the

purple, the

of

cross

merely exchanged

form

as

party

to

the

or

we

people

darker

compact

one

which

civilised

strangest

it

and

Baths,

Sallust,

third

chanced

we

his

and

Vitiges

his, and

when

the

or

the

lengthened,

in

this

and

of

shadows
robed

he

another.

one

pilgrims to

gathered

guide

the

was

together ;

their

or

blue

distance,

had

Forum,

to

the

and

and

the

recognition

introduced

with

in

amiable

those

forgather

guide

our

had

of Americans
each

first

at

not

me

not

grassy
to

each
to

be

laugh

THE

and

chatter

They

SHOW

Excavations

marbles, frescoes

and

hillock

from

threading
chasms
with

our

interest

inky pumice,

hands

Others

all I

know

there

is that

where

suddenly

became

with

roseate

elaboratelydesigned

central
full

embellishment

after

image

of the

do ;

to

of

wall

of

inky
clinium
tri-

hues, surrounded

azure

border, and

the

of

by

for

having

its

antelope running

an

it to

was

Philosopher

Singer or

the

Professor
It

of the

was

thus

graceful creature

eighteen hundred

moment

time.

mass.

I cannot

mass

the

out

the

it took

the

manifest

of

behind

wall

over

long

been

was

stretched

decorative

years

live, positivelyto bound

and

had

figure

house

specialtools.
how

of

movement

directions

not

and

watched

at

speed.

The

Pink

was

workmen

suppose,

the

bridged

shelving mass

There

The

; I know

cautiously

or

fresh

was

me

high.

which

that

different

with,

done

was

glowing
an

feet

of bronzes

below, scrambling

we

pick, every

whisper

nine

forward
it

pumice

of the

them.

to

case-hardened, and

so

blow

carefullyin

came

tell how
but

not

Straight before

say

revelation

planks

they whispered.

mass,

their

But

were

was

unearthed.

being

gems.

narrow

every

There

sudden

caviare-lookingpumice,

of

over

way

spade.

that

hillock

of excavation,
eager

the

to

and

things

new

the

to

329

PAST.

no

were

case-hardened

were

LONG-BUEIED

OF

sepulture seemed

of

the

across

inquire whose
or

the

Vitiges
enough

Antelope.

will

for
The

me

positivelyto

this

was

Of
that

"

Money-Lender,

Gladiator.
settle
to have

inert

liberated

field of vision.

house

Wealthy

Untrustworthy

suddenly

The

the

Cavaliere

all those

suddenly became

the

of

the

Comic
Fiorelli

points,

witnessed

little

in

due

tion
Resurrec-

mobile, the

330

articulate.

mute

complete.

the

street-

the

in

hide

the

on

people
blades

in

dead

city

rose

at

indeed.

riotous,

before

the

of

the

the

the

of

their

live

Preacher,

sky,

the

their

over

the

thongs

of

darker

know

You

than

that

bull's

of

for

but

had

in

the

gladiators'
But

Pompeii

of

cogged
of

the

ever

of

cries

clamour

the

ringing

life

rattling

antagonists.

again.

to

the

charioteers,

slaves,

the

whole

heard

of

no

profligate,

the

gamblers

falling

and

city

.bright

of

shrieking

bucklers

did

the

of

the

and

wicked,

was

untenanted,

graceful

me.

oaths

amphitheatre,

Vesuvius

against

and

longer

no

shouts

wine-shops,

the

only

was

incantation

tlie

worked,

desperately

the

shoulders

SOUTH.

me

up

vendors,

the

on

moment

bulk

and

chariot-wheels,

dice

up

Joyous

destroyed

the

of

to

frivolous,

DUE

charm

Pompeii

mercurial,

the

The

roofless.

longer

JOURNEY

to

look

its

purple

was

very

332

DUE

JOURNEY

martially,lyrically,and
neighbourhood
alive until
Roman

late at

small

with

hoy

five in the

nothing

the

around

the

to do

savoured

cigars

"mooners"

the

on

distracting.

night

season,

ghost

of Dante

and

the

in

trees

the

voice

harshest

of the

natives

broken

of

family of

suburb

of

and

vendor;

the

to

"

the
of

themselves

"

elbows, who

Jewry,

interposed

outlying

dyer

curs

hoarse

fresh
in

the

took
; but

Florence

that

passed

finding the

and

women
washer-

the

brute

looked

like

in

the

uproar

with

the

arms

of

one

massacring
of

The
tion.
extrac-

three

brawny

part

the
of the

never

Genoese

interest

the

noisilytalkative

between

from

dark

full blast."

of

chestnuts

roasted

journeyman

Herod

Innocents

of

been

discussion

"

the

of

without
in

have

must

was

vendor

crimson

satellites of

howled

it

d' Arena

Pier

the

of inconstant

than

is that

on

of the

groans

In

audible

Genoa

is, in

the

is

the

borders

trunks

Turin

ill-

of

"

phantoms
the

smoke

Ravenna

accents.

of

San

Angot

year

fearful.

stained

in

Pineta.

say

apparently

congeners

of

scolding matches

of

Madame

This

sins

Piedmontese

all I need

tumultuous

most

the

wailing of

distant

with

Madrid

at

about

great tribe

oziosi, the

only by

forestieriis sociallymore

and
the

through

was

of the

Sol

ears

and

is

; the

splittingyour

the

silence

lovers, imprisoned for their

forest

the

are

del

to be

supposed

of

gesticulate,and

and

awful

Spagna,

strange sounds

column

oziosi

The

of

di

piercing whistle

Antonine

Puerta

Piazza

art

gabbling of

the

"

and

chatter

to

save

in the

adept

an

afternoon

people

the

is

all kinds

exceptionallyshrill

an

of

with

night

the

and

Corso

the

in

commercially noisy. Home,

the

of

SOUTH.

the

bered
unnum-

chestnut

quarrel, and

ear-harrowing

shriek

of

the

locomotive

drown

the

that

"

"

THE

whistle
as

vacarme,

is all I saw,

and

suddenly
train

our

last November

rolled

happily

intervened

past the

station

to
; and

d' Arena,

Pier

San

least, of

at

333

NAPLES.

OF

MOVIMENTO

by

Genoa.

Still,the
have
of

their hours

Naples

day

restless

most

end

warns

behind

the
the

on

somebody
with

the

and

"

and

is

last

twanging

usual
outside

flinghim

soldi at two

seven

it is

"

shrill
more

Is

the

fabled

halcyon.

to the

note.

the

of

cry

that

surmise

losels, in

pantaloons, have

the

my

red

rigged

word

in

note
your

and

boat

forte"

Napoli!"
the

Does

and

window

again, say

up

of

yet

seven

it is the

nightcaps
up

are

but

lend

you

"

Bay

shrill

the

sunrise.

at

canzonetta,

amore,"

open

peacock

Sea

However,

Upon

the

see

melodious,

Mediterranean

to

morning

to

"

will

you

lamp,

window

Lucia."

Santa

couch, and

your

than
it the

safer

tattered

that

floating over

discordant

pleasing ?

to

"

crimson

your

"Bella

about

about

in the

midwinter

ululation

fly about

think

retire

you

exordium

peroration

"

and

cigar-

off the

turn

bawling

"cuore"

of

the

beneath

Just

guitar, and

usual

minstrel

book,

last

the

from

flame

the

it !

rhyming
the

to throw

flickeringof

late.

reading, very

room,

your

by

either

to rest

not

it is time

Confound

morte,"

But

that

you

city seems
in

are

Land

Enchanting

yet the "Movimento"

repose,

hearth, to close

usual

the

You

bed.

to

go

and

The

ceases.

watch

embers
and

never

by night.

or

Your

of stillness

the

in

of towns

What

Naples

that

is

sound

"

at

not

altogether un-

But

peacocks
It would

a.m.

may
ear

squeak
the

don't

be

that

more

a* Punch's

the

attentively

of Punch
usual

of

be

Two

imperfect
show

of

the

334

JOURNEY

primitive kind

most

two,

and

about

rowing

are

liberal

of

couple

Jack-tar

bit

"

red

ihe

from

of

ragged blanketing, a

ochre-smeared
"

bay

flingthe floating Pulcinello

given by these

abnormally

Both

tried

the

and
whole

galleries,or

museums

study

of

short,

in

"

the

murmuring,
A

myself.

availed
"

remarked,

if you

want

fail

line,"

Nor

did

pockets

and

keep

the

domain

outer

hailed
"

Tribunali."

me.

The

the

be

have

hack
an

victorias

"

bring

about

misery.
"r

Movimento,

done

devote

in

his

with

all my

seeing
sight-

faculties

Courts,"

button

to

few

the

while

small

driver

my

up

exploring
in

change

hours'

he

bustle

and

noise

umbrella

more

an

needments,

take

to

me

the

strictlycorrect, perhaps,

cab, but

that
for

resemble

irritatinghabit

the

of which

hint

Law

enough

for

me

advice

of my

bade

and

other.

churches, picture

no

the

Try

English provincialname

Neapolitan
drivers

hold

suffice

to

the

dropped

So, with

cab

I hailed

"

note

to

It would

that

had

something

firm

pocket

passing

say, not

is

have

to

the

on

crime

of

Miseria.'"

La

pulsating,breathing, trembling,

friend

of Themis.

breast

and

to

and

nonce,

"

is

Movement

of the

spasmodic Naples.
eagerly

"

excursions, to visit

no

altogetherfor
the

end

is, I

all-absorbingquestion

consequent

day's experience

make

resolving to

to

the

profligacy,thriftlessness,

Movement,

and

ment
entertain-

histrionics

II Movimento

equally dependent

are

Idleness,
the

"

quattrini. Behind

with

some

port will

The

matutinal

or

they

be

in the
two.

or

copper

stick
and

"

May

merchantman

apprehend, intimately associated

of

puppets

performing."

foreign

SOUTH.

DUE

of

the

cabdriver

cab

is

hailed

fly,and

flies to the

extent

crawling

after

to

that
you,

the
the
very

"MOVIMENTO"

THE

for half

often
look

in at

mile

at

settles upon
you

of

stronger

another

until

and

settles

half

he

to

in

the four-wheeled

too

narrow

able

to

and,

the

use

him

shaking

off,
half

to he

continue

you

enter

time

Va-te-nes," and

"

and

you,

street

some

Automedon

the

on

to

charioteer

summer

succeed

exasperatedby

reach

you

language,

soon

very

diverted

for

may

in

flydoes

to

little in advance

Practically,the

repeated

after

although
even

real

stop

you

solicitingyou

you,

chaises.

as

you

when

up

driving

then

towards

rickety one-horse

their

and

shop window,

turning their heads

and

time, pulling

335

NAPLES.

OF

flynuisance

and

crowded

too

dawdle

after

about

you.

Neapolitan cab

The
say,
a

little less

locomotion
walk

than

French
to

outside

him
the

to

additional

to

the

fare ;

You

to

have

shall
and

victorious

pay
two

ninepence.
him

at

hours

in the

that

your

He

has

least

four

hence

; and

mangled

journey

place

some

or

he

charge

can

privilegeof conducting

the

only to

made

up

very

you

and
galleries,

mind

francs

Neapolitan patois,

palaces, museums,
up

the
are

you

and

mingled

Martino,

; for which

made

have

little less than

time

or

San

better
than

'the vehicle

the

of the

much

had

for

other

cheapness

glance

in

you,

to

you

principal churches,

forth.

you

take

cityboundary

an

so

keen

English, interspersedwith

and

allow

you

is to

that

"

the

cityto

the very

entered

one

importune

to

the

but

you

ragged Jehu, perceiving at

forcstiere,begins

of

ride when

to

have

sooner

no

end

one

you

ridiculouslycheap

are

ninepence ;

tempts

and

from

ride

may

you

fares

his

between
often

mind
the

he

him

pay

that

present
off

comes

encounter.
T

S3G

I bade

when

But

the

who

going

was

form

sights, and

models

Hercules,

and

reading

probably quite
situated.

localityof

the

deposited

conduct

to

leading

the

to

temporarily closed
of
turn

the

That
a

"

agents

which

byelanes not
and

vehicles

inextricable

footway,

and

while

to

main

Palace

of

pubblica

from

much

result
wider

into the

the

the

than

the

The

people

the

was,

who

the

that

know

of

entrance

seeming,

was

string

detailed

the

there

one

all

to

he

slums,

foot

on

streets

of

be

to

regarded

In

together

in

exposed
should

have

in the

been

as

of

maze

Pompeii,

wheeled

apparently

carriages impinged
wares

to

as

of

there

obtained.

crowded

very

"

are

course.
officially-appointed

thus

was

confusion.

since

very

that, winding his

standpoint may

pedestrians were

grazed

only

and

Justice,

sicurezza

classical

are

thoroughfare, if

public traffic

Farnese

priests

knowledge
I

the

^Tribunal!

the

at

a.m.,

The

of vehicles

agreeable

most

shops;

della

stream

eleven

not

see

the

and

prodigious labyrinth

about

at

where

thither,

me

do

woodwork,

eating macaroni,

Naples.

of

fare

shovel-hatted

of

definite

no

Courts

Themis.

of

Temple

myself

through

me,

of

even

Law

way

peasants

unaware

have

driver

wheeled

were,

and

Naples

to

Sorrento

Ephesians

statuettes-

terra-cotta

newspapers

the

of the

of Diana

of

hitherward

come

photographs, coral,

buy

to

terra-cotta

told

who

majority of people

the

and

Courts

Law

stereotyped sights

recognised and

of the

one

The

Tribunal!.

the

to

at

thought

he
from

francs

extracting four

of

likelihood

no

was

ruefullydejected and

most

Tribunal!, his

the

to

me

expression. Evidently

deferential

time

same

there

assumed

fell and

countenance

drive

flyman

my

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

on

the

windowless

trudging

along

the

officer

followinghim
the

with

hack

of

the

"

in

with

all these

needed

into

so

The

draperiesonly

much

convertible

members

by

even,

aspect of the

and

scene

for the

"

his

the

Witch

at

"

or

was

friars

ivory litter

was

bearers

mean.

hue

to

the

of

Augurs;

but

the
the

metamorphose

to

"

be

easily

were

nobleman

stout

Eoman

"full

patrician
of himself."

complete

the

classic

permissible to accept
of the

carabinieri,their
whom

; while

obese

to

change

to

lighter in

centurion

an

sloe-black

painter'suse,

necessary

into

footed
bare-

Neapolitan humanity

brougham

least, it

stalwart

alchemy

of

varlets

and

teeth, and

College

wanting

not

were

bells

priests

crutches),idle

priests and
of

in

carbines, between

wrists,

; the

moustaches

strapping gendarmes
their

lumbar

kids, the

monks

trifle

aristocratic

slaves

of

For

to be

imagination

of the

aloft

little

very

willinglybecame

horse-leech

substitutes

on

splendour

needed

into

effort of

Lictors,

Cap

gold.

togas

occupant

the

into

officer

borne

animal's

goats and

looks, white

but

old Boman

transmuted

with

patient

little

laden

donkey

coronet

long-legged ragamuffin

the

Ked

saucy

with

squalor mingled

the

dozen

orderly,

ducal

ragged cloaks, pedlars,costermongers,

wenches

smallest

the

twinkling merrily;

double, Mother

mounted

with

road.

Charity, beggars, soldiers, cripples(the

Endorbent
swathed

of

string of ragged

of

hy

last

the

capo-capri

Sisters

eyes

victorias

the

of

trooper, his

hrougham

panniers, with

bestriding almost

middle

the

uniform,

337

NAPLES.

the

in

handsome

fruit-filled

OF

walked

full

in
a

panels ;

vertebrae

MOVIMENTO

marciapiede

mounted

on

"

"

THE

fasces

couple

bayonets

walked, with

gyves

as

fixed
upon

wretched, ragged, diminutive, shambling

of
on

his

creature

338

with
which

face, and

Aztec

an

covers

road

merry

The

hat

conical

"

without

"fetch"

and

displaying aloft
days

ten

hanging

Mr.

old

is

momentarily

English
notice,
one

out

to

six

by dark
may

been

palace.

to work

olden

are

search

forced

are

frowning
times

There

is

garb,

tumult

and

around

upon

ten
so.

with

which

has

as

your

taken

in the

But,

shafts

six

days'

courtyard, surrounded

walls

convent,

of

edifice which

an

an

mob, thick, struggling,diversified

in

the

things

who

hitching up

vast

with

of sunshine

such

any

cabdriver

short

so

with

It failed to do

Sunday.

on

I enter

the

the

witnesses

last.

tattered
arcades.

of

is

at

in

horse

paper
news-

meanwhile

me.

they

in

content

smiling equanimity

Sabbath

arcades, and

have

the

the

has

that

Tribunali

The

with

that

if

London

was

"

"

yards,

doubt, that

no

there

all ; or,

at

horse, the

licensed

/'fetch

days' licence

horse

of the

would

forget that

them

view

deemed,

Bertrand

me

delightsof travellingin

newspapers

assume

may
a

to

hundred

speak, but

not

He

eyes.

choicest

many

banner, regarding

contents-bill

of the

One

did

He

as

of

in

double

very

Toole

contents-bill

upon

man

"

the

for

me

printed

old.

attenuated
was

boxes

tomaticelll

and

one

who

Tribunali.

halfpenny bouquets,

Laurence

pursued

the

darkly expectant
days

bladder

usual, in high spirits.

of onions,

John

his paper

out

thrust

the

for

as

was,

brim, and

of

to

road

carriages;

Macaire,"

Eobert

mob

bunches
the

in

right

The

matches,

grandees

the

the

tried

vendors

of lucifer

of the

hue

of the

complexion

on

were

enough.

street

SOUTH.

jar of pickled walnuts.

Clearly we

DUE

JOURNEY

hospital, or
of

colour, predominantly

subacutely noisy, fills the

you,

and

another

tumult

340

will take
small

but

Thus

forensic

they

low

are

Coppers consequently
and

when
a

defendant,

when

or

the next

On
and

ever

rates

you

smoked

inner

and

meat,

rosette-patternedloaves
into

changed

carbon

basketwork-encircled,
yellow wine

decanters
greasy

rats.

of
A

comestibles
a

"

as

bunch
edible
the

and

glass jars

by

of brilliance
and

here

of grapes,

coral, as

or

it

were.

all-surrounding

do

there

the

squat,
were

fried fish ; flasks,

"

and

black
of

sound
or

in

cheap

Chaldean

parallelograms;
with

flies ;

cherry brandy, and

cigars,like

the

tails of

dried

show

of

is

given

to

the

piatto

of

rosy-cheeked apples,

of

mazzo

And
dirt.

of

and

sausages,

fellows

seasoned

sherbet

and

cakes

the

in dice

cut

little,thin, shrivelled

touch

79

A.D.

their

"

containing cheap

moon,

and

of

of

to

round,

those

of

as

devoted

variety

vast

wot

you

Pompeii,

lemonade

of

puffs

sheaves

new

say

-when

wafers"

stalls

are

piles

smelling loud

; cheese

in the

trumpet

man.

that

at

; to

sealing-wax,pumice-stone,

landing

compendious

commercial

steel pens,

"

tongue

of bookshelves

purchase

may

third

of the

restoration

home

at

yet

conciliated

be

to

spacious nest

law, criminal, civil,and

wafers
On

pounce.

is

stationery,quilland

see

and
plaintiff

suborned.
there

Italian

of

nothing

has

witness

hostile

quite handy

come

between

effected

being

landing

moderate

at

libraryof

we

is

friendlywitness

or

tion
pursuit of litiga-

the

largelyiuto

enter

cheap.

innumerable.

are

threepence three-farthingsmay

compromise

lawsuits

the

hut

very

are

wondrous

exceeding plentifuland

are

fees

Naples

in

shillings. Oysters

fee of four

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

shabby

tomatoes
light red liliputian

everything
Behind

one

almost
of

the

as

cheap
stalls

became
in its

aware

of

recesses

as

etching.

that

liquid from
the

of

the

flightof stairs

The

in

like

look

But

mean

edibles

and

potables displayed

landing

could

Yet
I enter

and

only find

their

St. Andrew

ceiling sumptuously

Tribunali

from

once

were,

upon

the

and

elaborate
look
and

frameworks

down

and

Dukes

Roger

the

Aragon

of
and

and

lengthened

Naples

half ancient
of

the

Norman

They

portraitsare

Who

Roman,

with

the

all

ceiling is
by bright

walls, between

the

decorative

design,

effigiesof kings

these

paladins
the

French

or

exceedingly grave,
as

long-winded panegyrics

they

and

Catholic
the

were.

of their

on

grandees,

half Renaissance

of

things

The

the

judges, loftilyserene

were

viceroys

all look

perfectlycontent

and

caffe

Evidently

gorgeous

of frescoed

series

Longobardi;

jurisconsultsof
?

made-

of architectural

painted pedestals.

their costume,

palace.

from

princes, bishops, senators,

their

while

plenteous gilding :

chandler's

proportions,its -walls

fresco.

and

third

the

of

staircase

in

time,

The

Dials.

in its

painted

panelled, scrolled, embossed,

colour

stalls

in

else

magnificent.

Cimmerian

noble

be the

must

English analogiesin

hall, loftyand

vast

the

on

or

equivocal

some

everywhere

the

Street, Seven

steps distant

few

with

mingled

puffing

tails of rats

dried

as

dark

the

are

staircase

here,

the

is

who

solemnly sipping

Rembrandt-like

Tribunali.

in Great

the

in Kembrandt's

discern

dimly

mantles

heavy

Naples,

shop

gradini

food, or

cups.

staircase, dark and mysterious

wondrous
on

341

NAPLES.

OF

stone

cigars which

dubious

munching

caffe

winding

shrouded

men

the

at

away

MOVIMENTO

Crouching

of

figures

"

"

THE

in

Consuls

prelates

of

Kings

of

Austrian

rulers

noble, puissant,
Below

their

courage,

their

342

generosity,their

piety,their

justice. What

hear

not

omicidio,"

"

bestia

"

effigiesof the princes

be if

would
hear

they

things which

the

murdered

never

the

catch
The

ducats,

the

press,

made

Surely

people, nor

teeth.

They

religiona gin
jostling,the

to

below

They

things.

They

tell whence

could

nobody

this

of

manner,

made

and

elbowing, the

darting

men

olfactory nerve
itself

hall

that

small

the

smoking

were

the

had

weeds

that

very

badness

of

would

What

people

refrained

scarcelyhint that, abating the

stench
with

of the

dried
I

what

and
rows

to

of

What

that
Gothic

Central

merry

remarkable
arches

cigars,I

Hall, to be

edifice

in

the

the

the
in

was

odour
?

of

need

yet compensating

What
!

sure

our

the

outside, which

all

altogetherdelighted

was

to

whither,

tobacco

smoking

hearing.

contrast

and

to

tortured

been

afflictive and

and

seeing

was

Justice, and. what

famiglia !

rat's-tail

tell

Nearly

the

from

people,coming

ever

have

net

laughingly

could

astounding.

vilest

yet the

mercy.

of

crew

going nobody

and

simply bewildering

were

law

simpletons

snare

motley

children

the

gave

never

judges

fro, the dodging past, the diving forwards, all in

good-tempered

and

audient, and

and

stole

never

the frescoed

warriors

down

ahout

or

shocked

sentient

about

ragazza,"

muttered

They

of the

their

nor

hall?

How

being

are

brake

which

bread

only be

faces

of this

prelates,the

anybody.

ground

never

to

could

and

obscurely

falsificazione,"

umana."

of

hear

sventurata
"

ahout

furto,"

sembianza

sotto

"

love

their

which
"

ahout

anything

"

those

Movimento

near

and

magnanimity,

are

"

in the

articulate
do

sounds

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

own

What
Law

Strand,
support

Palace

with
no

of

bella

Courts,
those
kind

of

"MOVIMEXTO"

THE

superstructure
it

to

seems

exclude
with

been

who

have

those

those

which

witnesses
Justice

the

been

opened

grumbling

principles. Everything
different

courts

The

Magnificoes.
lawyers, the
far

been

all times

during

Hall, with

walls, is

its

Sozzo

Suddicio

life.

The

"

4 *

who

public at large

again ;

the

Tribunali

the

or

the

bobtail

Hall

among

the

It is

name.

Probably
in

not

this

one

part and

in ten

huge

aula

of the
has

of

Here

"

real

that

is known

Naples

it goes

by

Movimento."

tatterdemalions
any

new

exclusion

in

only

the

our

ground

what

of

to

Neapolitan
of

the

on

masses.

parcel of

Central

Kubatasca,

rigidlyenforced

the Central

but

to Giovanni

management

less

has

its frescoed

slums,

Impiccante
and

are

decision

admitted

rag,

and

audience

are

the

the

near

the

curiosity" is wholly unchecked;

morbid

surging

judges,

as

discourage the indulgence

curiosity

The

the

soon

from

to

have

"

morbid

another

to

tag,

more

from

of Frescoed

gilded ceilings and

Esposito

all the

justifythe

it is desirable
as

to

authorities

Courts

and

Lucia,

Santa
"

so

sitting of

the

painted

from

deliberate
;

Hall

the

"Movimento"

the

court

above-board.

and

free, easy,

many-headed

to Infelice

open

Scroccone

of the

the

at

of

cratic
demo-

strictlyon

doorless.

are

judges
the

leave

is

hear

the

to

arrived

Law

portals

When

politelybidden

at

managed

directlyinto

open

prisoners can

away.

vided
pro-

Naples things judicial are

The

public ;

Palace

Eoyal

the

since

to

solicitors, and

counsel,

ever

the

"

accommodation

the

concerning

architect

the

be there

right to

judges, jurymen,

have
was

best

of

motive

chief

the

lovelycourts

by

In

have

which

of Pleas, from

Hall

Central

the

with

343

NAPLES.

OF

business

swaying
here.

and
But

344

what

does

that
is

Sudicio,

accused

coming

like

Sozzo

"

of

furto

personally to

Sudicio, whom

stabbing the

he

other

he sentenced

black

those

into

in the

arm,

to

or

direction

they

so

howl, should

will

Rubatasca

of the

one

be

it go

Impiccante

whom

he

is

ready

quite as
hard

his

Why

The

scene

is

quite

than

ever.

little difference

rows

rabble

filled every
the

For
are

like lictors

more

of

morning

long, broad
and

avvocati

taking

instructions

how

many

the

the

Basilica

them,
"

are

even

homicide.

to

The

of
see

darmes
gen-

part

my

see

excepted

course

at

"

certain

must

all
"

of the

the wall.

them

giving

there

the Tribunali

tall windows

at

His

crowd

Tribunali

consultingwith

if any

an

Pompeii.

rightangles to

notarii

legallegs

the

and

I feel

at

business

next

from

and

of

For

which

that

tables at

in

arm

They

classical.

of

and

side

the

to

smoke

reallyhave

the

sit the

them

here

folk who

provided, on

tobacco

"

bare, brown

Sparafuciie,their

sweetheart,

fair.

flaring

to-day for pocket-picking.

is up

down

have

with

quarter of

suspicion

on

come

the

centesimi, will

courts.

Patibulo

with

trouble

in

near

very

whimper,

to

have

between

so

carcere

swiftlyby,

of

course

of his blood

very

was

their

pass

bimbi

look

He

days'

three

criminal

the

in

grandmother,

not

of Sozzo

case

graceful,gracelessminxes

two

but

now,

who

his

many

question of

this

momento."

exiguous skirts, and

of

spadacino,

mother,

and

the

how

yellow slippers,who

giggling merrily
hour

di poco

that

aware

hair, their big gold earrings,their

yellow kerchiefs, their

thrust

ferito

ascertain

is

Esposito
Penale

on

PH.

Sezione

hates,

day

See

to.

their touzled

feet

Infelice

in the

on

SOU

DUE

matter

morning

would

JOUENEY

their

hall,

Thereat

clients,

advice, telling

they have

to

stand

"MOVIMENTO"

THE

and

upon,

meanwhile

inscrutable

as

Indeed,

the

the

on

who

to become

career

life ; that
the

Bar

ranks

and

of

which

study

of

notaries
The

now

in

in

extent

Italy

non-trading
with

bye-play.

their

looks

statement

with

shoulders,

were

the

clients ; but

these

dark

the

only

the

on

devoted

the

to

where

their

the

clients.

law,

of

men

downright
a

lie

now

by

mild

liberal education

cynicism, chronic

nervous

portrayed in

glances were

painful

classes.

with

humorous
rascality,

all

telligent
in-

half-approvingnod,

in themselves

despair were

of the

tables

long

litigiousness,craft, rapacity, terror,

malice, hatred, and

of

crowd

causes

been

the

of

appreciationof

Impudent

have
the

to

competition cruelly

sate, in consultation

accustomed

who

well-educated

at

commercial

heavily, not

so

and

Italian

multitude

men

of the

advantage

lengthened

of the

bears

the

young

one

physiognomy

and

marking

shrug

that

advocates

and

and

certain

might
human

stale

meeting

the

on

week

inexpensive ;

profession makes

; that

sum

young
or

be

can

brief, and admission

the

indigence

is

eloquent

is to

but

law

forensic

nominal

on

stepping-stone to political

literate, and

keen, and

poor,

the

apprenticeship to

easy

character

well-educated

as

in

be borne

It must

cases.

military,a medical,

avvocato,

heard

oratory bestowed

almost

every

well.

write

discoursing,I

am

an

Neapolitan

but

reallysuperior

city for

an

with

paper

the

well

well-turned

of almost

embrace

not

that

me

trumpery

of

Italian

ambition

does

most

education

in every

it is the

of which

sonorous,

of the

that

obtained

tell

only speak

not

morning

argument

in mind

rule,

plenty of

courts

the

covering quires of stamped

scribbling. They

advocates,

345

NAPLES.

OF

hope,
the

relieved

black

faces
here

of
and

346

there

by

aware

that,

would

not

the

what

come

interfere

and

to

when

was

bidden

who
hands

pull

of the

Strangest

the

decision

material

and

by

his

the

hands

those

of all

it to

was

other

of

groups

the

see

dusky

behind

of law

hired

Philanthropists of

of

Witnesses

benefactors

perambulate
ready

were

vain

of

to take

looked

asked

the

round

Sphinx

for
for

"

the

resounding,

whispered

unquiet muttering

an

her

thunder

secret

of the

and

Human

or

the

roar

"

shoulders

stamped

these

to each

lowering

who

wont

were

in their

moon

of the
Movimento."

apiece,

with

beetling

Camorra

might

as

for

In

well

have

warmth.

to rumble

human

to

shoes, and

half-a-crown

continued

Vesuvius.

be

to

long-since extinct

terrible

the

of

paper.

whisperers

men

'there

muffled
of

at

watchful

answer.

distance
the

straws

of oaths

mysterious

tables,

interrogated, or

debtors

with

the

the

over

of that

genus

these

were

Only in the indefinable

tremulous

the

their clients

round

hands,

be

to

distressed

number

any

Or

the

Hall

affiliated to the

brows

clay in

as

thought, ominously

these

grimy

waiting

Westminster

down?

money

centesimi, and

and

scribblingson

of

palms

race

stooping

swarthy hangers-on,
the

as

hanging

almost

watchers
?

and

lawyer,

men

men

interminable

in

these

were

grin

to

uncomplainingly

lire

of his

placid

potter.

engaged

Who

content

well

other

the

or

purse

more

the

or

way

was

leathern

to disburse

beetling brows

with

one

comforts

steadfastly,anxiously, hungrily, and,

watched

wealthy suitor,

litigant,who

out

altogether,in

was

his

rural

vacantly

SOUTH.

of

may,

with

the

DUE

insouciance

jovial

imbecility of

he

JOURNEY

the

Niagara
It

is the

348

harm

to the

been

doses,
sickened

he

ere

his

taken
time.

"

to the

got

Guicciardini
would

he

Then

of Pisa," and

War

reading

galleys to

the

to

little at

in

mittent
inter-

not

have

would

He

more.

any

not

preferred to

properly to appreciatea highly valuable

learned

had

historyby Englishmen,

have

fool, he would

back

of Italian

study

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

and

go

have

interesting-

work.
four

enjoyed

of the

House
is

it, where

goodness
At

imitation
fare

the

of

for luncheon

head
the

fowl

like

waiter
dishes

fare

di

table d'hote

is, as
beef,

or

mentioned

seems

to

above

few

the

other

usually a

the

under

only

enough,

of

sense

as

the

Louvre,

Albergo
and

the

and

attenuated
the

bill of

fried fish, lean and

dismal

tongue

offer you

tourist-frequented

dinner

the

besides

eat

they

feeble and

it set down,

are

in the

cutlets,and

common

Leone,

labour

and

palatable dishes.

houses

cold

sun

There

is poor

such

veal, with
and

else to
mutton

some

Parisian

of the

but,

pretty garden

cuisine

In

is

I have

pasteboard

always

have

excellent.

and

with

and

least

at

at

Bocca

second-rate

tough mutton,
cold

the

is varied
cities

the

and

d'lnghilterrain

Italian

it boasts

Strasburgo at Naples

potatoes which
Italian

hotel-keepers

culinary kind

Londra,

modern

out

Baths

the

something

saute

; but

the

Home

Gaffe

"rosbif," veal

worse

The

knows

have

can

you

hotels.

the

The

Naples

Nazionale.

Museo

well-tempered resort,

and

mashed

badly

Poet.

fried soles,

eternal

the

and

occasionally kept

Pompeii, notably in

at

Tragic

cool

very

around

at

nooks

shady

were

halls in the

umbrageous

were

in

glorious sunshine

prudent,

being commonly
There

of

days

alternative

like leather.
the
ones

of

The

persuasion that
of

which

you

THE

IN

at home

partake

ever

that
heard
and

have

you

ever

of such

he

would

It

"polenta"?

whole

if
is

of diet ; and

matter

that

you

and
"

for

fault.

We

that

our

bring

we

It

difficult

was

have

lose

aforethought to

anywhere,
this

great city which

into

"plunged

looked

whom

eat, the

sardines

of

in the

saluted

at

you

fish, and

seem

turn

or

were

blew

in

sunless
almost

cheese

to

warm

and

of

malice

it, I

first

came

turning

in the

-and

which

of
left

your

Although

the

you
of

greater part

ubiquitous.

were

to

thick

habitually,enough

boiling oil

the

eliminate

with

Naples.

cooking

; the

to

The

spluttering of

seething of leeks, the broiling

of macaroni

in

of rancid

odours

stalked,

as

simple

hands

reason

from

the

cauldron

fat, reeking

stilts,through

on

gusts through the

for the

shake

the

in

terous
prepos-

to

came

matter

not,

simmering

every

high-toned

lanes
ways

the

much

had

of

frying-pan ;

and

what

population

their

in

Continent

away.

when,

right hand

they

smell

potatoes

of tomatoes,

which

and

mind

see

not

dense

of

taught

most

"

of sunless

though

as

sound

bubbling

The

of

passed

and, taking the

your

midst

the

impossible

and

did

was

the

in presence

were

dark

verilyit

for

"

have

prejudices

of

since

the

myself

Tribunali,

the

from

away

I wonder

porringer

"

ravioli

as

to the

us

many

almost
from

culinary considerations

with

British

long

nay,

"

"

never

prejudices the foreignercontinues

to those

number

have

uccellini."

foreigner asked

to minister, although
deferentially

of their

"

life

in your

"risotto,"

and

insurmountable

of

pack

abroad, and

mainly

believe

foreignersto

time

gnocchi

as

say

first

macaroni

as

"

is the

this

come

edibles

"stuffato,"

what

; that

349

SHADE.

the

that

blind
the

the

alleys.
houses,

opposite sides

of

S50

the

lanes

narrow

which

the

Old

which

of the

possible rays

any

above

head,

your

blue
there

is

; and

that
the

pools beneath,

lake

the

among

There

bay

but

humanity;
trouble

Five

Points

has

been

of

who

oil,cabbage soup,

houses
their

five

eyries

enjoy

near

at

to

St.

eight

the

Five

in

stars

in that

at

late
do

quiet

black

sour

the

in

the

hundred
Points

ravishing prospect

and

of

think,
more,

whilom
and

exemplarily swept
who,

with

surroundings

bread, salted cucumbers,

and

hutches

Moscow,

miserables
the

not

tenement

that

"

of

do

Not

top of the
York

hives

to

scenery.

New

upper

Petersburg

of the

attics

inclined

am

years

those

tall

exalted
I

at

these

of

the

lived

or

"

discomfort, seethe

of the

glorious view

surrounding

the

me

sky overhead,

the

brandy, reeking sheepskin touloupes,

corn

and

the

about

tell

temperature,

reflected

and

often,

or

those

garnished, they

the

of

reflection

roofs

in

did

filthydistrict

of train

the

much
of

far

strip of deepest-

is

them

see

dwellers

beauties

out

Sweden.

from

the

shutting

length, very

narrow

for the

than

perhaps,
houses

in

storey,

ways
always puddles in the foot-

are

you

in

at

state

splendid radiance

themselves
the

about

as

Vesuvius

of

and

until

one

the

of these

one

storey succeeds

intenselyblue

even

crags,

be

must

just

to look

tempted

be to

of

ness
Good-

proud.

so

may

day,

of

there

and

once

those

loftyas

as

predecessor

be

still and

so

feel

you

orb

may

mud

always

its

discern

you

Whatever

sky.

was

; but

tenements

than

all

are

storeys there

successful

more

Edinburgh

many

towering Neapolitan
each

SOUTH.

thread,

you

of

Town

how

knows

DUE

JOUKNEY

of

and

those

which

apiece.

Transatlantic
Manhattan

general filth

From

ment
tene-

harbour
their

indigents

may

its beauteous

IN

bay

; and

noble

Petropolisand
and

the

and

and

St. Izaak's

the vast

palaces,the

broad

old and

the

capitalsof

Russia.

In

poverty-stricken
Naples
themselves

concern

effect of

the

shadow

hi the

than

does

lack
the

on

the

of

impecunious

which

he
to

means

incitement

is

dome

and

New

apple

enraptured
the

the

"

towards

The

street

corner

small

eatables

always
of

quattrini;

mancanza

"

any

to

Hudson

much

more,

is made

and

of

with

and

supper

for the

concurrent

of

of the

fascinating

the

"

with
of

incessant
:

the

those

but

high

fancy,
in

up

the

turned

being

out

expatiate

to

Jersey

or

perhaps, do
children
of

charms

Ivan

feel any
Russian

bathe

sinking luminary

belfry, in wondrously shifting

at

and

Naples,

who

does

There

is

needs
the

in

even

not

plenty to

and

aureolin

winter

; but

ruddiness

its luminous
man

more,

River,

hungry

of the

"afterglow"

afterglow
having

of the

the Mediterranean,

of

rent, feel inclined

rays

time, is perfectlylovelyin
is

golden

terraces

much

ultramarine, of crimson

and

green.

the

the

waters

Yorker,

brood

cupola, spire

cobalt

of

Neva

the

lot it is to suffer

with

apprehensive

callow

be

whose

Not

the

pay

sunset, when

summer

hues

his

to

and

dancing

City, or Brooklyn Bridge. Not

and

squares

extent

mountains

picturesque amenities

Ivanovich

Kremlin,

of

enchanting play of golden light and purple

distant

the

garret, from
for

the

garrets

spectacleof

the

do those

great

any

sunlight on

with

or

to

high-up

be the

must

domes,

new

the

stately,from

of Moscow,

Moskva,

351

SHADE.

THE

see

eat

what

his
at

way
every

perennial provision of

purchasing

willingnessto
quattrinithere

sell.

is

power

It is

affair

an

is oftentimes

"una

assoluta."
z

not

352

Thus
is

the

JOURNEY

indifference

DUE

to the

easilycomprehensible.

of

money

whose

or

who

wealthy

the

majority of

vast

which
and

they

and

wear,

tend

can

is

the

it

grand

the

on

whom

but

in

The

sights.
bent

are

mainly

As

shoe

pinches

right reverend
of the

the

about

real

so

the
"

and

poor

is the

for

slums

get sufficient

to

of dimes,

encouraging them

luta

di

the

quattrini,"the

shillings,but

of

in

"

be

diamonds

of

kopecks,

for

the

day's

cornering
able

to

"

pork

build

of

case

Seven

and

grain,

"

Napoli

Dials, of Chatham
and

Moscow,

Neapolitan
is fine

"

and

but

miserables
it is

Fifth

do

one

not

"

of
;

the

there
The

and

pounds

while

State

Avenue

would

get drunk.
fine

in

of

asso-

in your

noteworthy

nearly always

"

mancanza

from

be

are

you

epaulettes

in

and

When

or

to

sion
commis-

Storey.
of

of St. Petersburg

circumstance.

this

order

preciselythat

Street, of the rookeries

for

dwellings

thrift ;

not

statues

or

sole

senza

so

watering railway stock,

palaces on

Meissonnier,

prating

rea.1 crux.

bread

robbing

or

now

"

diamonds

or

spurs,

marble

picturesfrom
The

your

complacent

of

the

ence
exist-

with

the

the

desperate need,

pence

in

habits

problem,

rollingin golden coaches, wearing

and

are

"

real

absence

is where

toleratingthe

necessity for improving

the
difficulty,

lack

after

generations

many

That

toleratingthem

"

thoughts,

noble, right honourable, and

philanthropists,who

London

indifference

volubly

there, most

rags

by privation

dimes, kopecks, soldi for the day's sustenance.

the

the

on

for their

how

"

the

of

eyes

emaciated

love.

direction

one

plenty

paint pictures for the

forms,

they

of nature

have

who

people

is to

eyrie dwellers

disease, of those

they

It

in all the

beauties

surrounding

business

revel

SOUTH.

the

The
weather

earthly paradise,

354

lotteryin Italy is

one

of the

affect that fair land.

is the

market

stocks, what

are

have

which

hazard

of fortune's

purposes
and

between

and

"

of

hope

the

or

keep

to

money
all the

days

winning

him

day

-"

doubt

no

not

unequal

the

in

is

in

to vice
at every
most

and

of the
turn.

most

the

hideous

The

abject misery.

mass

The

the

that

is

gambling

in

one

macaroni
in the

totum

Dives,

the

on

already enough
competence
the

in

totum

hope

lose every

from

and

wickedest
kind
of

the

and

of

farthing

the

rulers

philanthropists,
is not

hunger

so.

But

the

perhaps inevitably
fearful

most

judge

for

gay,

is

you,

yourselves.
the

of

one

land

are

are

This
most

Invitations

in broad

population
of the

of all ?

curse

world.

in the
meet

much

of

cause

the

parsons,

and

ascertain

of

one

gambles

for

his

he may

the

"

city, beautiful, picturesque,

miserable

that

honourable

his

tellingus

of wealth

hither, and

Come

difference
who

has

the
the

; whereas

in

curse,

misery arising

distribution

keep

or

"

upon

operator

who

which

judges, the

concur

money

people"

risks

"

family

fearful

such

great crash.

some

; the

moralists, all
is

week

pounds

of
sterling,

and

Lazarus

not

lives, risks

of their

Drunkenness

crime,

will

his

and

such

eighteenpence

Stock-Exchange,

million

next

very

the

saved

hundred

four

you

only material

Neapolitan

than

when

your

other

great Exchange

more

winning

Bourse

the

the

and

of

staking

The

the

"fall"

from

eighteenpence
for

tomatoes

hut

please,

what, if you

Egyptians

the

stolen

having perhaps

former,

and
or

wheel

lottery and

the

in

you

discern

can

Turks

which

pernicious gangrenes
it is ; and

course

doing

you

SOUTH.

most

"rise"

the

money

Of

price of

for

speculate

DUE

JOURNEY

daylight,

sunk

in the

doing their

WATER

VENDOR'S

STALL

AT

NAPLES.

r. 354.

equitable,the

and

factories

striving

are

"

springing

some

up

apace.

by savings' banks,

tions
by sanitary organisa-

now

people self-reliant,moral, healthy,

the

make

to

sides

In

school.

now

"

are

pleasant to
their

by

from
are

by agriculturalassociations,

now

satchels

their
to

It is

free.

are

laws

The

it.

regenerate

people

thousands

economists

Everywhere

to

with

Peninsula

the

of

parts

the

children

their

in

trooping

and

and

press

little

the

see

ameliorate

to

utmost

very

355

SHADE.

THE

IN

and

strong.
That

there

hordes

are

Naples

vagabonds

in

Still, the

la-zzaroni

who,

rule

formed

nuisance,

and

peril to

is

immense

The

Naples.

tinkers

kinds

small

of

in

laborious

earn

hunger

that
is

and

exertion,

of

industries,

their

several

keeps

them

chronic, and

of

or

all kinds

all

to

seem

but

callings;
much

after

naturallyis

well

petty

an

the

wares,

of five hundred

indefatigably

be

wretchedly

strivingthey
them

of the

one

as

idleness, in

it is the

leaves

and

poor

extinct.

fishermen, the

the

followers

the

mischief,
be

to

mere

of

the

under

toil, as

hack-drivers;

cutlers, and

pittance which

insufficient
to

hawkers

said

laborious

of

the

boatmen,

fruit-sellers, the
itinerant

deal

be

deny.

to

distinct

"

may

"

of vicious

amount

apart

society

deaf

thousands,

their

race

immense

an

in

and

blind

be

idlers, and

and

mendicants,

must

one

Bourbon

There

of

are

The

poor.

chief

able

factors

of

crime.
The
in the
an

hungry

man,

hitherto

imperfectly educated,

grossest superstition,
grows

inadequate

doing nothing

wage.

but

He
what

sees

is bad.

weary

way

at

towards

From

last of

and

toilingfor

earning

Esposito

sunk

or

more

by

Sudicio

lie

practicallychanges his

He

with

consorts

the

the

of

like

bladder

the

covering

subsequently

after

di

thefts

indictments,

In

another.

seventeen,

with

ever

saw

at

and

was

"

were,

pleaded

that

fear,

cruel

contamination
for

of

few

"assolto"

forthwith

of the

dock

acclaimed

female, his
up

advocate's

fee.

much
worn

between

force
a

the

usher

of the

of

rusty black
had

come

court, who

to

very

his

"

in

had,

who

lapel,
of the

only

it

proven,
to

the

together
of

verdict

forthwith

ragamuffins, male

lire

of

advocate

giovanotto

was

and

suppose,

required for the

had

end, he

reallyspoken
address

his

stuff; but,
an

sleeves

their heads

fervour, had, during

of

unlovelygrin, and

few

was

that

dignity

been

acquaintances, who
the

him

hobbledehoy

very

legal gentleman,

exculpatory harangue
by

concurred

band

the

have

such

gaunt

them

and

gown

then

grinning

and

The

coat

judges put

The

by

kindred

mustered

court,

and

acquitted.

"

his

might

tribunal

tail, and

one

shirt

as

similar

larceny

on

his

expose

The

gaol.

coat

in

delitto

policy to

of

geners
con-

hobbledehoy

gaunt

for

gone

ing
morn-

whose

of

act

and, but

imperfect
the

this

criminal

one

sleeve,

one

have

as

minutes,

slipped out

with

well

as

complexion

I met

the

amount

back,

although

evil and

was

the

split up

in

schaum-pipe
meer-

wearisomely

on

last

at

half- smoked

cardbinieri, and

accused,

the

it lacked

least

other, with

where

smallest

the

thing, he might
they

to

that

momenta,

case,

brought straighthome

the

arraigned

poco

one

with

two

saw

Spadacino.

becomes

whom
pickle-jar,

the

between

handcuffed

or

He

vile.

the

felon

countenance,

Sparafucile or

to

name

vilest

tattered

downcast,

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

so

was

composedly

soon

to the
as

his-

approached
disrobed

him,,

IX

and

Was

entire

his

clad

folding

up

there

only

the

Sessione

success,

Criminale

turned

gentleman

expression,

forensic

solitary

to

was

leave

as

hungry

357

SHADE.

toga

put
then,

gown,

The

he;

was

he

THE

the

if

as

for

the

An

there

his

in

away

advocate,

court.

and,

it

client.

cupboard.

Tribunal

well

unshaven,

be

anything

of

pleased

this

with

shabbilyin

facial

I.

CONTINENTAL

SUNDAY.

PARIS,

"

the

IF

smell

so

enjoyable

made

beautiful

the

up

you
and

rainy
all

are

You

on

obtain

are

for

the

"

for

northern
those

for

to-night,

Germain

1'Auxerois

distinguished

marriage,
of

M.

the

of

Bonapartist

Baron

the

at

Eoguet

deputy,

to

may

from

the

bouquets

Marquise
Church

de

many

You

grand
la

the

Madeleine.

sous,

Madame

for

make

price.

The

is

so

the

three

corner.

to-morrow,
le

of

see

for

which

of

bouquets

raout,"
the

side

button-hole

each

rainbows
and

to

It

name.

with

Paris,

in

loveliest

francs

boulevards,

round

hundred
fill

slinking

Tulipano

that

buy

to

abating

Here,

the

does

as

Mexico

the

by

which

the

by

pretty

beggar-woman

to

twenty

par.adise

round.

name

amply

as

"

flowers

by

would

of

Valley

and

glorified

May,

earthly

an

year

to

fashionable

very

rarest

the

asked

the

about

trophies

not

the

all

floral

roses

and

"

from

of

are

the

pay

prodigious

highway

spring

of

not

rendered

City,

which

of

did

Seine,

Delightful

days

idea

the

of

weather

latter

the

season

and

to

vitrines

the

encompassed

scent,

others

early

the

pitch,
delicious

of

in

the

the

there

measure

Andalusia

only

by

bank

right

or

of

strongly

very

more

fill

Droite,"

Rive

26.

May

la

de
of

St.

Poguerie,

Mademoiselle

de

362

JOURNEY

Crac, the daughter

of

la

But

haute

the

finance.

colossal

DUE

the

of

one

the
at

asparagus

Chevet's, Potel's, and

Chabot's, the

in

d'Antin

and

the Rue

St. Honore,

in the

Palais

artistic furniture
bric-a-brac
china

in

trifles of this

dynamic
all yours

ponder

to

gratis,and
Are

than

power

for

attractive,and

Regent

Street

form

Is not

the

Strand

the
the

most

aspect offered

not

seem

varied,

Street

while

fill the
you

gaze

radiant

guns,

revel

are

in, free,

ignored ?

be

the

of

and

gayest of

you

that

you

in

cheerless

London
upon

have

that

in

if you

any

tall

are

the

in

the

You
young

not

of
the

and

height
with

highly
poor,

property,

of

attractions

comparison

of Paris

shop-windows.
them,

at

even

not

Is Piccadilly

thoroughfares

our

as

moulds

emphatically that

answer

boulevards

the

Is

of art ?

shopping

shops present,

our

tame

by

very

the

are

abundant,

and

long highway

one

or

as

fashion

glassesof

ghostliest of contingent remainders,

which

sages,
Pas-

socially

more

in London

to you

spring-time. Somehow,
to

of the

hundred-ton
to

the

Drouot,

has

expatiate upon,

accessible

contemned,

are

season,

Rue

Bagatelle"

and

picturesand

gewgaws

battery of

full of

Bond

brilliant

balmy

"la

to

over,

bronzes

glittering,sparkling,

one

whole

the

enamelled

which

mart

which

and

Lepelletierand

cheap,

to

attractions

1'Opera, the

jewellers'

nothing.

as

be

to

de

Chaussee

at the

la Paix, the

analogous spectacles as

not

Avenue

and

city,in

de

the

of

shops

the diamonds

Rue

giltand

thousand

the

milliners'

the

Rue

the

glass, the

and

the

the

in

of

big fish,and

bonnets

and

notabiKties

exalted

most

costly flowers, the

miraculous

Eoyal

SOUTH.

of

the

sunny

it does
even

the

pretty things
are

man

afraid, even
dressed

all

in black

will

intend

you

Now,

that

fancy
the

the

I discern

the

kind

diables.

"

It

We

of

the

the

is

choice

truffles

the

well-constituted

back

street

follow

and

zola ;

joy

Of

Buy?

course

brave

these
Column

of

things

Marly Horses,

the

Denis.

then,

and

Look,

be
There

is another

unwritten,
as

the

your

fill.

de

Arch

eleemosynary.
can

of

look.

All

are

the

as

Triumph,
the

and

sunshine

Brie

but the

for ever,

is

Gorgon-

fromage

you

Louvre,

The

of this

property

your

the

Camembert

the
St.

Porte

Bask

is yours.

satisfied."

in Paris

pace

of

fa$ade

but

buy,

Vendome,

the

thing

much

as

in

fndtieres

joy

black

the

of

is

beauty

cannot

are

Place

the

of

and

come

degustation of

tints

morsel

salmon

big

to

this snowy

subtle

esculents

the

Admire

not

so.

truffles

"

those

the

beauteous

the

you

of

render

your

thing

when

doubled

is

truffles

are

the

the

as

pauvres

be

to

Nevertheless,

potatoes from

find

line than

your

will

marbling,

appetising.

more

humanity

consideration

fried

may

you

of

Chevet's.

appetising.

more

delicate

the

in

mind

of

halfpennyworth

bulk

the

The

It is

des

mostly

are

right of

purchasing.

you

See, there

white.

and

the

recognitionof

without

that

more

at

trout

boulevards

saying compassionately, and

lot of

welcome.

stare, and

severelyif

you

Paris

the

on

tacit

stare

know

friture of gudgeons is
or

shop

proprietors were

contemptuously,

or

of

etalage

impecunious public to

though

ask

buy anything.

to

in

shop and

the

from

out

step

363

SUNDAY.

CONTINENTAL

ever

an

enchanting

season.

against walking
you

choose

to

tends

which

circumstance

about

adopt.

There

to make

is

no

the

streets

You

may

time
Spring-

law, written
at

creep,

as

slow
you

may

364

crawl,
you

the

round

Just

table

measured

and

behind

at

step

strollingalong

are

When

by

women

their

tall

"

only

realitywas

ladies

to

should

but

physically; but,

see

pedestrianism, we
is the

noble

Redskin

"

either

robe

slow
traditionally

and

in his

enjoyment

of

those

those

command
in

at

observers

of

Yokohama
New

York, he

huge clubs, dragging

gestures along

Japanese Tommy"

well-bred

or

them

ithers

realise

or

of

seem

American

saw

men,
gentle-

umbrellas, politelyofferingtheir

as

should

"

of

escorted

buffalo

wrapped
a

to

with

which

succession

ourselves

"

We

earliest

furiously indecent

That

they

as

perpetual

pressure

Broadway,

armed

men

walking-sticks or

with
arms

persons

yourself

friends

his

down

with

arms

table-

really no

of the

to

wrote

public pavement.''

the
in

of

mention

of

private thinking, you

own

one

first walk

his

description of

trian
pedes-

leisurelymanner.

Tommy,"

manners,

practicallyadvancing

are

your

most

"Japanese

Anglo-Saxon

made

in

to

the

as

thoroughfare,

to

have

You

muscles, and

desperate hurry when,

by

London,

in the

so

may

in

the

of

London

shall say

"

case

action

in

your

sides.

your

locomotive

your

over

and

you

the

in

as

revolve,

crowd

the

street

of locomotion

be, it is imperceptibly accelerated

to

our

fashionable

mode

the

makes

that

slow

however

in

high, your

up-and-down flowing of

in

policeman

nor

"

involuntary muscular

it is the

turning

man

necessarily hurried.

is

seated

is

season

no

that

I maintain

nay.

when

prowl, and

may

you

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

the
be

see

along
us,"

only morally

rapidityof Anglo-Saxon
a

noble

sententious
his

not

side-walk.

the

Kedskin

Arab

burnous, and

dignifiedmanner.

of

"

the

where

desert,

stalkingalong
But, granting

ethnological conditions,

we

should

A.

probably, ere
the

or

had

we

Strand

on

against the wall

the

perilof

stalked

fine

elbowed

or

our

well-dressed
the

from

scene

the

jostled

tripped up,

to

of

crowd

"madding"

better,perhaps,

to

vantage of the

of

point

secure

be

May,

involuntaryand

the

by

and

be

It would

people.

in Bond-street

gutter, or

nose,

unconsciously heaving, surging,

of

end

the

the

into

integrityof

the

yards

hundred

towards

day

365

SUNDAY.

CONTINENTAL

survey

of

car

captiveballoon.
On

the

do, both

and

you

and

prowl.

washes

Jehus

driver

but
"

run

shoots
as

bien

que

you

out

make

up

people
made

their
are

digest.

You

along piano
and

piano;
;

and

progress,
the

"

and

on

are

trap, and

and

mind.

and

thin,

all

conducting
better

you

at last

"

the

side-walk,

less shaken

and

dislocated

front

intent.

The

to

foot, you

fiftythousand

people in

side, to peer at,

on

are

you

things easily,and

similar

has

on

either

dawdle

have

of you

good things
and

over,

to

obstructingthe thoroughfare by moving

reason

sano

although slow, is
the

and

you

But, when

the

that

consequently, as

totalityof

than

in

va

before, he

not

minds

for the

"chi

thick

worse

or

fiftythousand

not

riage,
car-

through

dumps

more

to take

hack

hails

road

often

very

in

halt

he

!" after, and

say,

mind

behind

of Paris

sano

of his

your

up

"

can

choice, lag and

hurry

by night, you

carriages,"and vituperatestheir

"

mal

body

of

condition

in

people crossing the

Americans

the

Gare

from

dashes

of other

"

yells out
over

tant

be

of which

wheels

the

Parisian

and

by day

by necessityand

If the

the
"

boulevards, both

Paris

va

lontano
! and
"

to

of

the

regards

sure

boulevard"

pace

"
"

everybody

circulation, it is
that

if you
the

else is

old

is

say, the

to

desire

"

to

Parisian
A

do

"

there
A

3(56

only be

can

Madeleine

of every

to

hideous

porte cochere
the

de

allowed

la

to

the

do

individuals

to

of

symptoms

with

hurry

bills for

light,strong

first, the
of the banks

other

and

steel chains

where

they

with
harmless
many

criticisms

waistcoat,

your

life

am

old.

pursuit

treading on

pressure

began

the

find

so

giggling

"

the

on

They

it when
say

that

in

the

was

and

blue-

acceptance,

of

by
headed
bare-

troop

arm,

errand

fast.
is break-

airy and

an

your

grisetteis

patible
com-

wholly

indulging

watchguard,
So

was

so

is

dead

out

of business

pleasant quest

nose.

man

the

next

face, and

your

only

slightest
and

the houses

with

"

your

the

the

bills for

in

arm

that

fashion

whiskers, and
was

and

show

ostensible

of

toes

your

from

Their

des

securities, fastened

waists

noon

employed.

are

They

and

foot ?

on

comptoirs d'escompte,

with

generally

half-pasteleven

are

when

save

Italiens, and

to

and

valuable

to their

work-girls who,
between

Trone

cocked-hatted

portfoliosstuffed

leathern

payment,

permissible

is

are,

de bureau

gargons
their

it

whom

du

walk, they dawdle;

not

the

of

vfh"tfdneur

But

fast.

Madeleine, des

la

On

Trone, people

du

Barriere

every

regions

great public festival is

de

Boulevards

Capucines people

coated

or

walk

the

travellingto

of

under

at last.

remote

Barriere

to

pretty girl,

every

loiterer

the

kiosque,

every

Montmartre

Rue

as

the
and

hurry

of

note

every

the

far

as

and

fhefoire auxjanibons
On

of

woman,

Bastille

be in

take

to

will reach

you

"

dreams

ever

old

boulevards,

upper

Place

quack,

to

the

of

stock

take

to

give eyes

to

the

will, startingfrom

you

"

shopwindow,

every

SOUTH.

determination

healthy

of every

give ear

to

line of boulevards

one

with

contents

DUE

JOUKNEY

it when

it

now

! that

in

your
my

when
Lisette

368

unbridled

the

from

mazagran

or

if I

cafe

and

in the

eight

the

boulevards

to

long past

being perpetually

bavaroise

Middlesex

of the

fear

licensing laws

over

until

morning

the

which

Sunday,"

privilege of sitting at

the

the

on

please,without

so

Continental

than

more

little table outside

"

the

of

much

not

means

me

licence

SOUTH.

DUE

JOUENEY

night,
mid-

trates
magis-

before

my

eyes.

Yes, I had
and

Elysees
Anglais

would

be

those

of the

be

would

the

who
of

"

on

And

the

theatres

the

in

open

than

of their

watching

their

fine, entering into

for

all the

cat

courtyard of

the

on

of the

world

as

of

way

all the

on

in

the

And

and

the

sinful

for

buying

grimly

dire

for

worthy

ture
picde

papers
news-

that

at home

look, and
hours

will

killingof
folk

of

humorous

chapel

necessitythat

Monday

these

and

and

tion
recrea-

balls

and

dolorous

church

the

English people, who

between

"

flirtingin the vestibules

barouches

of

downhearted

thinking

of

And

evening.

crowds

conventional

less

luxuriating

berries
straw-

demoiselles

trim

day long.

hanging

and

the

facilities

Sunday;

perron

and

Cafe

purveyors

the

nothing

for the

open,

the

rooms

And

to be

seem

dining

by

promenade.

pleasure of watching
wear

robbed

the

Sunday

on

afoot

all

would

be

Champs
the

and

asparagus

be

that

magasin

boulevard

would

galleriesthat

be

des

flesh-potsof

restaurants

would

you

at the

delicacies

Paris

the

at

unconscionably

how

large the

How

Concert

the

after

hankering

Sunday.

on

for the

unholy longing

an

arise
mouse

crowding

the

Grand

the

Continental, dashing forth

Hotel, gossipping and

to Vincennes

spiritof

though they

were

the

or

the

St.

Cloud,

Continental

rational

and,

in
in

Sunday,

beings.

CONTINENTAL

"

I will
go

train
and

and

lightboat

than

This

on

forgotten

that

Saturday

heavily laden

neither

little

means

wasted,

apparition

the

of

the

on

repentance
brief

with

life

is

race

of

expenditure

followed

by

and

time

over

who

maximum

lavish

continental

sporting

English

whom

boat

traveller

to

general discomfort,

of mortified

have

and

Dover

To

of fun

Derby,

should

to

companionship,

unsavoury

sensation

uneasy

Cross

entirely

French

the

of

eve

Calais.

minimum

coming

to

I had

one.

racehorses, and

on

and
superfluities,

utter

on

bets

beyond

dust, drought,

Charing
to

light

Derby Day,

inclined

more

consequently we

Dover

from

nor

owns

the

that

from

heavily-laden train

will be the

number

was

be

particularSaturday evening."

this

part, blunder

my

Chantilly, and

at

as

will be

will

There

"

said.

Wednesday

abroad

going

to

was,

run

; for

sight-seeingclasses

the

home

Paris,"

to

over

369

SUNDAY.

little less

money

the

trip of

an

roundings
sur-

than

the

ugliest of nightmares.
I like the
I

at

am

Derby

sentimentalityof
the

the

wire-blind

and

inclination
it is

while

that
care

much

crowded
sex,

with

of
to

being
world

for

the

with

rise

to

told

me

in

St.

is

can

one

offer.

sight

individuals

pallidflat faces,

of the
almost
small

the

of

But
deck

the

am

very

never

square

over

without

just

before

prettiestspectacles
that

Channel

exclusively of
eyes,

could

race,

sporting

Street

I confess

of

of

jockey hanging

James's

the

Doncaster

at

she

when

Cup

height

that

that

tears, I think
run,

when

jerkin of

tradesman

shed

the

who

satin

coloured
parti-

see

an

lady

and

Epsom,

Leger

hardly

could
the

at

am

St.

the

Ascot, and

and, although

when

do

not

steamer

the

jowls, and

sterner

crania

370

of the

their

in

in

tight ahout

very

garments

of

impartial mixture

the

Continent
however

which,
realised

in

the

By

happy

say

suddenly

and

that

tell

me

that
very

that

the

when

upon,

these

which

though
in

the

the

and

to

when

made

from

Derby

Kue

Mountains

"

run

acquaintances

with

equal
of

and

new

the

Moon,

and

and

douane
at

hundreds

were

the

gotten
entirelyfor-

Chantilly that

with
the

the

shoe
horse-

immensity

I have

gazed

of times, but

interesting to
high

"

gulfed
altogether en-

which

scene

the

Lafayette were

of

suddenness

syne,

strange

in

the

Nord, and

Paris

at

am

ing
fleet-

most

du

had

by

tribulations

straightway absorbed

was

de

Gare

of the

to be

was

; but

memory

of the

the

much

horseflesh

past

my

was

return

we

contemplation

as

on

lore

very

about

fearsome

flat-faced

My

be

come,

years

ordeal

mild

five-and-forty
years

seems

the

right
down-

consummation

more

several

reached

we

will

there

French

; while

in

is

had

great deal

the very

that

afternoon.

Paris

an

wished, will scarcelybe

reluctantlyacquired

breastpins were
of

odds, slang, and

be

may

impression

custom-house

English

in

is

conversation

that

But

of for

the

through

gone

pins

only travel

Amiens
a

aware

nature, and

they

reached

been

to

horse- shoe

time.

our

will, to know

I had

hips

hunting-crops

or

whose

of the

devoutly it

time

against my

had

and

all, could

balloons

in

the

jockeys,
English sporting fraternity,

and

trainers, bookmakers,

sticks

short

citations

If the

blasphemy.

than

and

neckerchiefs,

closely-

ahout

legs,generallywith

the

with

or

exiguous

very

buckskin-gloved hands,

their

SOUTH.

conformation, either clean-shaven

bullet

cropped whiskers,
and

DUE

JOURNEY

street

of

some

treading the

me

as

city
pave-

merit

if

"

time

there

pavement

in my

It is

CONTINENTAL

life.

It is

just a quarter
damsel

young

Paris

six

a.m.,

and

the

ankles
all who

to

for

taking
by

the

of the

sale

softer

Sunday morning,
of such

the

turns

nosed

winding

handle, has

the

sale of denrees

magasin

is

of

iron

revealed

what

epoch.

Miraculous

famous

sagos,

Malabar, and

innumerable

Black

Flags

haricots
And
The

dried

chocolat

blancs
the

patron

of the

clock
and

is

de

exclusive
which

sante, the

and

have
with

the

of the

treasure-

of

the

world-

wilderness

of the
been

Veuve

crowned

nineteen
Tonkin

The

only

for

Khroumir's

of
de
in

medals

tea, the

biscuits,the

of Suez.

six

this

will

be

just striking
the

is

tapiocas,

coffee

mentions.

Isthmus

She

stock-in-trade

phenomenal

and

turns

quack groceries

exhibitions

honourable

thought

slightlypug-

her

richness.

the

prunes

she

upon

establishment

serving linseed,

international

successive
and

termed

privateand

the

on

the

of

cocoas,

life-pre

The

macaroni.

be

lishment
estab-

an

labour, and

countenance.

all its varied

in

may

smile

Presently the.

coloniales.

stern

in the very

lady, as

young

shutters

of

Hard

shame

was

comely

and

sunrise, and

upon

beaming

otherwise

up

close

the

about

neatness

front

crank.

the

There

in

hair

immaculately

herself

to

her

is

coloniales, is apparently

denrees

so

sex,

too

cuffs
whose

and

pride

toil at

But

but

house

of

outrage.

an

be

first

here

with

summers

who,
slatternly,

are

spellof penal

one

should

word

my

upon

and

irreproachablystarched,

feet and

example

and

collar

the

for

street

early morning.

at

eighteen

some

faultlesslyadjusted, with
snowy

high

of that

"

only

to

of

be

371

SUNDAY.

patronne

Sunday morning.
down

presently.

372

Adolplie,

the

shopboy

shutters, by

the

have

coiffeurto

by
his

assured, is bound
afternoon.
from
in

her

of the

number

need

midday meal,
a

walk

and
"

with

and

until

counter,

play or

to

to

she

sunset

de sortie

in

the

the

evening, to

stool

shop-girls, her
and
a

for

guinguette,
her

not

afternoon,
behind

serve

the

shop, reading

If

neighbours.

withered

the

to

If it be

the

they

as

similarlycircumstanced

devote, she

while

to vespers,

outside

tomers
cus-

will go

she

whole

the

during

last

the

return

barrier

evening.

gossipping with

extraction

country

Sunday

the

As

will

at

this

articles

She

will continue
nine

such

dine

ball

read

to

mass.

and

rest

quietlydown

sits

Popidaire.

them

may

damsel, released

trim

Lafayette

ball in the

occupy

and

Vie

man,

cheap periodicalsor
shop-boys

La

if it be her

eight or
or

de

you

suburban

the

up

neighbouring

crank, she

Kue

to

at

the

will sell to

young

Sunday out,"

and

or

will go

her

to the

go

she

she

then

in the

Voleur
in

visitor

to

Adolphe,

for

ostensible

shop

drop

curled

wound

have

to

round

gone

be

the

Le

of

hair

ought

Mademoiselle,

to

toil at

front

has

"

to

As

who

"

SOUTH.

DUE

JOUKNEY

trot

may

old

of

before

away

minds

bonne

be

she

the

shop

for her.
And

what,

League

say

themselves,
with

answer,

fathers
before
with
maker.

and
them.

him

so

The

wonder, would

to this

of

shrug,

their
As
with

"

thing ?

C'est

fancy that

with
the

fruiterer

the

grocer

the

on

9a."

comme

grandfathers,and

their
so

put

up

her

Parisians

subject, would

remote

with

the

They

the

butcher, the baker, and

will not

Hours

Metropolitan Shop

they interrogated

were

kind

the

do

as

their

ancestors, did
charcutier
the

shutters

"

as

candlestick

again till

late at

the

joints ;
wares

the

night ;

druggist is, of

whatever

can

the

curiosity

old

before
such

o'clock

shops
I

where
of that
the

the

their

trade

kind

is

costlier

supply

rule with

led

not

the

the

Septembre,

to

that

of the

they

entirelydesert
the

cigar and
playing

have

them

to

or

Patronne, between
her

female

of

scores

St. Honore

quarter, and

that, although

find

of life continue

the

of

rigorous

most

which

the

purvey

Avenue

de

Rues
for

trade

so

and

the

mass

alcoholic

and

and

sufficing

the

first

day

hermeticallysealed,

are

betake

themselves
be

pleasure, to
will

struck

the

Vivienne,

chieflyaliens, utterlyand

assistants

has

in

On

Royaie,

Rue
and

simple

pursuit of

eleven

piquet

the

shutters

their

the

Richelieu

to transact.
are

the

FOpera,

du

Rue

Paix, the

la

de

de

reverence

great shopkeepers of

The
Rue

no

before

closing

the

of

sipping something

domino

that

necessaries

clients,who

Why,

le Patron

in

will

you

the

Sunday

shopkeepers

whither?

Rue

arrived

Sabbath.

the

on

their

week

the

establishments

great extent, the

trading

forswear

in

I pass

astray by this apparent growth of

sanctity of

reason

hotel

down

luxury.

foreigners'quarter

and,

la

the

usual, Sunday

as

the

be

Quatre

M.

who

articles of

for the

and

reach

great boulevards,

shopkeepers

the

Sunday morning

on

ere

jeweller,and

shutters

their

with

want

alight. Once, however,

of

But

dealer

But

hand.

continuallyon

course,

his

supply

to

not

ceases

hookseller, the goldsmith and

the

seven

dealer

and

fowls

with

heavy

spits are

coke

and

373

SUNDAY.

rotisseur's

coal

the

CONTINENTAL

in

front

sure.

smoking
of

thereof.

interior

breakfast

be

"

his

cafe, or
Madame

ing
time, will be visit-

acquaintances or bedizening

herself

in view

of

374

the

entertainments

of

the

the

of

or

cigarettes
who

To-day everybody
good

begin

to

to

to

go

Derby

peal

light
the

of

then

The

and

have

Is

his

the

caught

Eoyal,

brush

to

of

height.
Rive
is

be

must

you

money

to-day

not

and

you

means

"

the

French

the most

and

he

faces

of the

he

as

was

fortunate

the

Galerie

Now,

the

belles

one

vins,

"

deluge

"

is

Even

compelled

ladder, perched
the

this

"

on

frontage of

will

the

petites at Chantilly." But

the

besides

the

belles

saying is, in

Valois

Koyal
where

the

the

Ha

to

ere

has
the

reach
the

the

petites.
Place

the
storm

was

du

Palais

shelter

ot the

reached

its

become, of all places on

edifying but,

so

far

concerned, deceptive rule of Sunday closing is

strictlyobserved.

to

slake

enough
de

Palais

Droite, the

the

the

the

it strikes

as

It

of zinc
fresh

decorating

was

de

things

rain,"

hue

alarming splashes.

from

"

from

peeps

the

after

of rain.

downpour

house-painter,who

descend

peal

in

noon

plumbago tint, and

of which

rungs

in the

and

arcades

incessant.

are

no

from

sky changes

thence

tempest affects other

Paris

who

Auguste, hopefully,as

newly-established marchand
on

the

and

recurring visit, before

violent

cynical journeyman

higher

the

and

"

eleven

in

ricochettingin

lay by

lime

"

people

between

cries

door.

pavement

the

each

on

pipes

descends, vertical, implacable, and

rain

to

money

Chantilly.

at

and

up,"

of lead

cries

the

any

brasseries

and

billiard-balls

of

briar-wood

has

comes

of thunder

cstaminet
that

of

calicotsr

young

the estaminets

clicking

Paris,

upon

races

answer

will clear

about

The

run

The

in

days

many

SOUTH.

afternoon.

scattered

quarter, and

puffing

DUE

the

of

assistants,are

or

JOURNEY

money-changers

have

as

most

taken

to

376

and

and

carriages

their

"

spoilt

everything.

But

clear

and,

Sunday

but

were

pavement,

one

the

for

my

of

of

that

"

out

last

at

they

where

been

all

and

into

unqualified

day

end,

of

of

Spring-time

had

rain

pitch

sunny

on

the

places
in

Paris

on

and

come

verified.

was

innumerable

pleasure.

themselves,
themselves

and

warm

odour

in

cruel

the

gloriously

than

promised

the

in

repairing

richer

had

now

omnipresent

first

SOUTH.

people

they

prophecy,

Auguste's

up

DUE

houses

perchance,

were,

JOURNEY

It

did

afternoon

boulevards,
the

would

asphalte
have

II.

PARIS,

Is

anything

state

that

been

to

until

Hall,

gazed

have

the

of

of

MM.

Laffite
I

sur-Mer.

for

which

due,

was

of

agency

of

garden
were

o'clock

twelve

as

few

Paris

of

intervals

the

mind

the
the

broad

there

was

gas

Paix

and

de

struck

and

It

Royal.

times;

only
Rivoli

to

away
the

and

"

the

were

boulevard

all

from

in

reverberes,

or

and

the

pleasant

in

shade,

Kue

noon

detonation,
the

through
in

day

boulevards

streets,

in

diligences

cannon

broiling-hot
the

the

before

distant

of

to

Boulogne-

discharge,

narrow

the

sustaining
in

the

was

just

dull,

burning-glass,

thoroughfares

cords

heard

the

day

in

from

me

been

having

as

hot

very

of

have

"go

to

arrived

one

transported

informed,

Palais

those

by

hour

was

sun

whither

Paris,
had

first

nor

although

bidden

on

never

eyes

and,

worth,

Mine

was

had

Kenil

seen

Exeter

It
that

1839,

Caillard

et

on

1884,

Chatsworth.

there.

Rousseau,

Jacques

never

when

required

May,

contumeliously

been

August,

have

nor

and

never

28th

nor

Plymouth

have

month

Jean

Knole,

nor

frequently

Bath,"

apology

an

the

Well,

on

been

of

nature

Wednesday,

Versailles

Haddon

never

the

of

30.

May

the
there

in

the

crossed
oil

at

lamps-

Rues
and

de
smelt

la

378

JOURNEY

DUE

SOUTH.

delightfullyof melons, peaches, celery,fromage

fried

plashing
to

down

the

ears

my

difficultydiscern

vigilantquest

more

as

that

been

met

enchanting
I

had

whose

mission

that
in

before

the

for me,

Sketch

frantic

to

d'Honneur,

some

see

the

Bceuf, which

sutures

some

were

remote

"

last, in

des
my

which

of

was

great deal

than

good

were

the

pagoda

Angelo

At

1837.
Jeu

Glaces,

youthful
to

de

and,

pleasing association

Titmarsh

"

with

"

The
or,

it

wonderful

History," by

all

events

Paume,

the

was

Cour

especially,the

(Eil

of which

the

cranium

speak

of

pages

in

year

to

Versailles,"

lore from

Revolution:

taken

the

at

following

Versailles

in

in

reading

Michael

be

to

Meditations

in the

scarcelyclosed, so
but

demanded

Versailles, the
Galerie

Courcelles,

from

coco

Paris,

sweetly frothing preparation of

French

Carlyle, published

Thomas

de

one

was

I remember

to

grapes

just been

reprinted

"The

the

in,

de

partaken

goblets of

article called

gathered

entitled

book

had

by

reward

to

Rue

pension

more

impetuously

Book,"

be, I had

may

of two

the

to

the

many

an

with

shoes, and

school.

to

after I had

of that

be

to

was

where

Roule,

Possibly I

bearing

me

journey

our

and

cats, old

dead
was

could

one

of Trevi.

conduct

to

was

as

brother," resident

vendor

magazine

Paris

"big

kennel,

the

the gutter-music
chiffonniers,

by

nothing

say

Versailles.

which

it

Fountain

du

liquorice water,

some

which

of the

gingerbread

itinerant

an

of

situated, and

to

and,

murmur;

the

of

torrent

execrably paved street, had

tribute

of

began

we

was

much

too

it

Faubourg

bound

of

the

past service

saucepans

of the

middle

soothing

swollen

the

Even

potatoes.

Brie, and

de

may

"

have

possessed

bulls'-eyes.

"TO

"

But

off

long way

was

very

hot,

overheat

and

myself

the Pension

that

and

of

I should

been

be

that

my

marching

the

across

Place

hackney carriage called

far-off
"

Faubourg
mills

The

small.

the

Hudson

walk

years

to

ago,

it pass

of

vin

sour

to

find that
and

not

the

with

ordinaire, its too

Lowe

Napoleon

"

louts

and

the
at

not

scale of

ing
exceed-

Courcelles
school

trace

or

been

vestige of

work

much

the

had

of its

memory

used

musty

and

for

the

pinch

to

Grouchy

and

that

reason

victory at Waterloo,

St. Helena

General

to the

umbrageous pions,

who

General

old

my

that

lonely English boy

Blucher
turn

into

conveyed

de

Rue

the

to

away,

of ill-conditioned

Marshal
time

play, its pedantic repetiteursand

hair

bundled

was

Roule.

elated

was

Let

its horde

yellow

beating like mad,

drums

llanche, and

dame

fiercest-

for

it remained.

little

by

unwonted

with

seen,

had

Boulogne

the

with

Victoires, I

des

requisite

I went

long

and

be

gods grind slowly,but they grind

pulled down

haricots

I undertook

between

ever

"

Koule

du

of the

day, and

other

du

road

creatures

legs,headed

to

me

diligencetravellers

dusty

had

day

of fear

beginning to enjoy the

was

that

red

epaulettes and

! word

"

We

regiment of little

moustaches

looking

the

to allow

not

character, it would

the

on

Versailles

Courcelles, Faubourg

de

washed.

"

as

charge

that, before
and, finally,

hours

that

me

tired ; that

very

schoolmaster

Rue

well

So, just

spectacle of

it in

had

recreative

"

twenty-two
Paris.

he

me

be

I must

that

for

excursions

any

gravely informed

that

Henon,

waiting

"was

"

379

FRANCE."

OF

GLORIES

THE

brother

big

my

was

at

ALL

who
and

it

arrived
because

too

and

pull
was

in

Sir

persistedin callingthe Emperor

Bonaparte."

380

JOUKNEY

The
started

up

vividly before

1884, I cooled
St.

to

since

by

created

by

Versailles.
first
the

the

and

Eoi

Palace

the

Palace

Washington

had

pile built by

Mansard

by Lebrun,

all been

1848

the

Second

the

and

in the

shrine

off

Coup

the

d'Etat
in

absence
of

course

unvisited.

aversion.

Mall, when
of

the

eleven

o'clock

town

the

in

passed

and

palace

the

the

and

White

the

House

I had

"

; but

1870

had

in

made

collapseof
of these

none

it necessary

so

The

he

was

The
asked

been

necessity has

of
many

years

I left this

pastrycook's

porter
what

newly-built Sarcophagus

cannot
at

he

the

that

look

reason

historic

lady

assistant

upon

Mausoleum

next

real

famous

young

thought
Club

the

of the

February,

; the

1851

December,

to be

in Paris

great revolutions

Philippe

never

ing
break-

the

spectator

Louis

the

on

distance

at

decorated

saloons

short

far too

Old

the

revisited; but

on

September,

Escorial

Alcazar, the

Kremlin
the

and

of three
of

had

another, I had

or

Potsdam,

non-combatant

throne

his

Empire

at

"

abhors, it is said, jam tarts, and

without

the

visit Versailles.

Perhaps
why

for

and

Bernini,

politicalconvulsions

tremendous
I should

of the

and

visited

consummation

toppling

the

Perdus

gardens designed by Lenotre,

the

on

Cortes

of

personallyagreeable to
and

and

Hermitage,

I have, watched

eyes.

out

Pas

and, somehow

Schonbrunn

May,

des

to the

visit

1839,

in

day

Nearly five-and-forty
years

Soleil ;

and

Seraglio, the

set

Salle

August,

latter

on

Ketiro,-_theAlhambra

Buen

Winter

in the

in

noon

when,

contemplated

there.

been

never

high

me

heels

my

SOUTH.

railway station, waiting

Lazare

express

that

of

remembrance

DUE

Bath

buns

Club, Pall
architecture

door, replied that

"TO

he

had

Sarcophagus

business

it has

arid down

up

show

house

"told

His
the

of

led

the

weeks

en

the

over

with

him

"like
was

palace

book."

from
The

We

be

not

and

All

I ?

with

him

des
on

afterwards, and
he

and

palace

reallyknew

had
to

go

cousins

country

no

so

Hotel

added, by having

both

that

the

at

spending

Paris, where

had

knew

course,

to look

not

to be

drive

to

He

Duvernay.

Versailles, and

of

bored, he

gardens.

to

annexe

train

afternoon

so

Majesty's

and

happened

have

to

were

been

during

Her

at

breakfast

to

come

great

gardens

about

them

books.

is, on

and, aided

"

you

landscape

this

on

from

St

Lazare

up,"
tries

and

station
The

fills you

its very

particularWednesday

verdure, .it
So

the

day, pleasant enough.

wakes

The

abundant

beautiful.

express

fine

mildly

memories.

and

to

Did

jaunt by

station

Vanities

respective choregraphic

to go

the

me

ballet

fiddlers,and

villegiatureat

and, of

his

bidden
a

who

Ellsler, Cerito

Fanny

who

I should

business.

to wander

of business

course

the

friend

early

an

about

say

never

asked

by

he whose

and

Pomps

Cramer,

for the

supervise

was

given Wednesday.
return

; thus

decades

describe

Francois

to

there, until

Reservoirs

381

subject,inasmuch

home

in the

never

orchestra

to

was

went

and

see

had

he

Taglioni and

dancing.

few

to

nothing

business

never

the

on

his way

on

describe.

to

Theatre, had
merits

to offer

during nearly three

world

which

years

FRANCE."

OF

recognised the necessityfor repairingto

off"

many

GLORIES

not

was

been

the

have

not

may

THE

opinion whatsoever

no

the

as

ALL

very

nearly

best

by

to

of every

name

with
to

amiable

be

pretty;

brilliant

succeeded

sailles
Ver-

sunshine
in

attractive, indeed, did the country look

being

at Ville

382

that

d'Avray
afraid
and

had

the

that I should

striven

betta, but
The

villa.

struggle to

desist

to the

and

park

the

in

getting

ruined

the

train

and

St.

at

stop

from

ghost,

Balzac

intervened

circumstance
seat

the

up

de

did

train

and

Jardies,

recent

Gam-

I had

expedition

an

trifling

keeping

my

Versailles

at

hard

reallya

fortunately

towards

engagement

my

Les

out

making

; but

conduce

much

very

long-since-demolished

Cloud, and
out

am

the

of

not

his

chateau
to

and

halt there

alighted, and sought

have

Honore

of

SOUTH.

train made

conjure

to

DUE

JOURNEY

my

into

the

lady

and

bargain.
My

in the

only companions
presumably

gentleman,
moutard,

about

aged

much

not

The

cane.

and

effusive.

demeanour
a

The

body
and

boy

clothed

was

he

draw

to

ghastly
in

gilt

the

the

his

and

hat.

at

legs

attention
a

of

railway carriage.

fully half

my

life.

certain

His

age

in

have

must

lower

Guilford

been
be

Fiend
aware

immense

costume,

band

the

half

of

geoisie.
bour-

part of his

nautical

raven

in

Couple,

the haute

I should

of the

extremities

Versailles

His

his

equine, and

to

on

bare.

were

livery stable

lower

letters

his

of

top

upper

of

were

from

Constant

The

caricature

young,

hair

the

features

in

was

half

gawky

his

sucking

to

Child.

Fiend

low-crowned

residing
Square,

was

and

evidentlya

were

son,

of

roots

couple belonging

"Tonkin"

had

knickerbockers,
to

model

in

broad-brimmed,

liked

They

couple, a

decorous

given

middle-aged,

was

their

inch

an

were

gentleman

the

than
much

was

lady

The

eight.

more

He

eyebrows.

and

married,

disagreeably good-looking,
distant

compartment

of his

much
my

in

was

have

ance,
acquaint-

Street, Eussell
Child
of

in

this

; but

he

the

raven

still

384

dog

four

given

with

the

domestic

strong,

so

! the

too

be Loulou.

may

I trust,

that, when

time

the

at

la Eeine.

mentally.

Would

I had

that

the
I

been

the

opportunity of obtaining

and

gardens

the

informed

that

inducted

formed

house

suite

grand
part of

Campau,

the

those

discourse
a

new

M.

on

very

exhibition
mention

to

you

of mind,
had

as

at

appeared
dis-

ease

I told

them
I

the

at

peep

de

my

should

and

Alphonse
"

Le

evening

of

have

palace

Madame

at

the

the

and
make

of

"

Bombignac,"

pictures.

Congo Treaty, of

He

the

on

the
even

Divorce

the

nette
Antoiturn

on

disposed

more

Frangais,

was

Madame

on

talk

our

novel

new

site of

Marie

on

was

Then

Dubarri,

much

seemed

de

which

into

Pompadour.

to

timorously.

Lamballe,

Depute

of the

annexe

occupying
de

on

the

apartments

Daudet's

of Meissonier's
of the

I reached

hardest

my

host

my

piece called
that

the

But

topics.

de

Princess

least, I tried

at

much

Madame

naturallyturned

"

before,

mansion

conversation
on

frame

when

me

delicately and

occupied by

once

book,

quite

not

believe

subject when

the

Reservoirs,

des

Hotel-

the

it smells

approached

And

his parents

time,

so

wasting

Duplessis, Boulevard

Versailles

at

dog,

of

out

Versailles;to alight in

Rue

same

friends

my

never

the

in

the

at

book."

and

towards

sped

little

be

for

you

tolerant

more

have

you

to

apt

rebukes

The

when

are

you

Child

Fiend

station

was,

in

was

and

deliciouslyscarce

who

adds.

it

St. Cloud,

at

due

"

rubbishing old

censor

So

time,

censor

another

on

money

Anne's

of Queen

"

your

SOUTH.

shillings for

fifteen

pounds

cookery-hook
temper

DUE

nasty, snarling little beast;

"a

as

JOURNEY

Sapho,"
to

be

Salon,
made
debate

to

on

duced
proand
dental
inciin

"

the

concerning

the

asparagus,

the

GLORIES

of the

and

Senate,

THE

ALL

TO

Soudan.

difficultyof obtaining a reallytender

this that

I had

to Versailles

come

it

point of view

certainlywas
At
this

the bull

I took

the

I had

month

begged

historical

life that

my

taken
brother

big

My

1839.

the

to

incredulity.
I

that

word

-chateau

and

farewell

and

Antoinette's

'Twas
his

who

he

about
outline

of

so

and

Tour
"

saw

foolish

Maison

de

Malbrouck,

rest

du

and
a

descriptionof

was

thing
a

as

spent

in

believe

with

them

me

was

the

now,

over,

we

gentle irony,

Bailli,and
and

all the
I.

It

the

Marie

Bridge,
of it.

rest

part of

was

unbelief.

not
to

whit

one

Suisse, with

it," not

of

believe

not

like to visit the Grand

Hameau

the

the

glance

not

.directlylunch

of invincible

"

did
me

not

remarking,

the

in

dinner, I bade

do

they

to

altogetherinvincible

believed

palace I might

all the

mind,

do

host

and

by

met

was

friends

my

merry

events,

the

seen

the

of

Went.

to

all

thither

me

but

they

that

palace, my

said

condition
We

At

Dairy,

Windmill,

the

afraid

am

Trianon

Petit

the

it

impetuously

delightfulafternoon

gardens, and

will.

that, after I had

that

and

long

the

.started for the

.and

view

been

ever

palace as

entreaty

; that

saying

was

and

never

convinced

was

when, after

more

it for

point of

had

take

-to

quite amiable, perfectlycourteous,

of

be

to

my

August,

of

Was

the

horns, and, pleading that

the

by

in

time

first

Versailles, I begged
.as

and

not.

length
was

the

the old friendship

Well, from

the

of

servants,

filetof beef.

From

was.

eloquent

was

succulence

French

of

waywardness

385

hostess

My

flowers, the

of

plenitude

FRANCE."

OF

conquered.

attempt

palace which

to

even

the vast

I
the

am

not

faintest

majority of

386

who

people

have

nowadays

Court,

as

the

intend

only

the

has

been

the

really

in

kept

and

on

as

the

The

it

celebrated

spectacular

legend

such

that

its

on

the

which

the
"the

was

substituted

pictorialand
always

"

to

The

to

"

in

Toutes

result

has

the

but

and

of

impression

Napoleon,

into
and

be

for

sedulously
looks

with

deserted

plated
contem-

regard

its

to the

device

concern

with

Blood, lavished

of

his

unequalled
The

Napoleonic
saying

that

Orleanism, only
yet

more

millions

of the

spiritof advertising" he
de

St.

of francs

advertised.

splendidly

too

preferring
millions

plastic embellishments
truest

been,

great gallery,where

Glory,"

with

has

of abandonment

while
many

St.

antiquity,

seriously

was

the

of

close the

state

"

same

immense

to

came

of

structure,

Versailles

new.

of

extreme

even

edifice

untradesmanlike

les Gloires
been

interior

garnished, so

demolition

of "Blood

resorted

Peace

of

lamentable

Philippe, who

Imperialism
with

and

Revolution

effects, could

politic Louis

Gardens.

interior

Walls

are

too

of Versailles

drama

the

last-named

looks

into

conversion

similar

by

Imperial residence, spent

an

the

impression

the

its mosaics

by authority;
Cloud

Kew

which

Hampton

or

as

to Paris

go

greater part of the first-named

First

degradation

or

an

travellers

sedulously swept

fallen

not

Windsor

as

was

Without

The

the

palace had
and

Paul's

does

impression
It

some

repair, that

When

new.

the

brand-new.

internally,so

who

disappointment.

on

apse

and

"

at Greenwich

me.

utter

at Rome.

SOUTH.

familiar

Hall

on

St.

of

although
is

made

Paris

as

record

made

Basilica
Peter's

be

to

DUE

to

Painted

and

weariness

been

must

"

palace

JOURNEY

palace,
cated
dedi-

la France."

grandiose, but,

to

my

thinking, disap-

"TO

pointing and
made
of

ALL

distressing.

even

ache

to
literally

quite modern

by

the

the

Orleanism,
of

Galerie

des

remain
are

to remind

but

dim.

it did

as

in order

morning

ancien

The

his

hilted

rapier of Bussy-Kabutin,
de

of which

the

trodden
and

foot, the

tea-services

powdered

that

created

Franklin, which
all

these

shouldered

out

sight by

Napoleonic campaigns,
by

Horace

and

the
such

Simon,

of St.

leasing-making

shoes

royal patron

Antoinette's

silver-*

sensation

huge

among
and

the

soles

royally

; the

for the

the

tiers,
cour-

elbowed

as

panoramas
the

Smala

pictures of acknowledged

and

abiding value

of the

and

Benjamin

capture of

Vernet

fans

and

scene-paintings of

enormous

of

tour

hoop

Dr.

stockings of
a

the

adorned

Fragonard

the

on

be

every

"

on

painted, to

Marie

great

so

reminiscences

Dangeau,

practically hustled

are

of

and

worsted

the

Quatorze

austerely crimped

of his

victories

Dubarri,

; and

tresses

the

of

high-heeled

Boucher

the

and

coat

Vandermeulen

Dutchman

under

Pompadour

; the

Maintenon

Louis

peruke
and

Boeuf, the

de

the

regime,

of

history

dressing in gala dress

;" the brocaded

of Nature

and

those

now

zoologicalexercitations

knees

Madame

of

monstrous

de Buffon,

write

to

acres

upon

remoter

(Eil

skull full of scandal

ruffles of M.

laced

the

from

bed-chamber

the

of the

you

and

vague

thatching
the

Glaces, and

are

glaring colours,

chapel, the

the

Although

acres

Bonapartes,

scenes

brain

your

battle-scenes,full of

most

the

of

momentous

now

France.

fasti

of these

with

the

in

387

and

eyes

parade

turgid compositions painted

illustratingnow

Your

crowded

canvas,

FRANCE."

OF

GLORIES

THE

of

the
that

Abd-el-

Kader.
Even
interest

the
are

engulfed and

absorbed

in this

great

ocean

of

and

paint.

388

The

famous
of

tableau

be well

day might
Madame

de

might

study

placid

old

for

Pontiff

be

crowned,
Lord

easily,but

venerable

sanctifythe

of

the

Prince,

very

by

the

in

features,

will

tapestry record
the

Talleyrand
actor

Talma

dumb

show

Scapin,"

of

whole
with

"

The

successful

surveyed
a

to

}iow he has

taught

and

so

it

does,

Son

inflexible
as

his

the

is to

me

poral
Tem-

having

to

Church's
a

whole

simply
Bayeux

while

designed

the

the

across

the

commented

prodigious

explaining

robes

posse

of the

phantom

scene,

grand

of

of

"

heroes

mountebanks,

rascals

of both

sexes

in

Jupiter

legislators, philosophers

brazen-faced

by

upon

swindlers, jurisconsults and

and

he,

Alps

Eldest

rights
as

and

the

with

far

Sacre"

by her

that

crossed

queer

his

inwardly

grin ;

flit

this

has

against

as

but

ambition, bravery,intrigue, and

knavish

seems

and

and

struggle goes

Son.

Josephine

shrewdness

defend

to

King
which

indication

very

major excommunication

equivocalEldest

this

Iris Church

of

fascinatingpicture, unrolling,

fraud

of Italian

prepared

if the

even

the

be

of

so

things amiably

most

Chiaromonti, who

and

diadem

Maximus,

an

that

and

that

content

without

You
of

Emperor

Pontifex

not

gist of

the

mild

so

"

Imperial

touch

the

fine, to take
a

read

countenance

ah

the

blessed

without

claims

tenacity the

pronounce

has

head

enthronisation

Church,

the

that

entire

an

large indeed.

very

together

his

on

Barnabo

to

writ

tion
Corona-

the

"

which

may

"

content,

in his

astuteness

you

VII., looking

not

not

Sacre"

before

work

affably content

so

Supreme

Imperial

the

Pius

"

the

Therein

hour

place

should

is

Memoirs

an

Pope

of

"

spent.

himself

shall

and

Great

Kemusat's

benignant,

the

the

Napoleon

David

by

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

how

and
and

they

"TO

should

ALL

properly

GLORIES

THE

their

wear

and

clothes

fine

389

FRANCE."

OF

put

coronation

on

manners.

such

But

pictures
their

and

up,

turbulent

Sacre"

"

Vernet

and

Versailles

at

is

personalty
of

canvases

the

as

and

Raffet

of

the

hy

obliterated,

mainly

Yvon,

lowed
swal-

are

Bellange
.

all

David,

after

you,

First

melodramatic

all, something

Napoleon

the

as

"

and

conqueror

better

than

his

the

on

Versailles

such

certain

extent

than

the

the

picture
effect

is

death

at

Longwood;

and

the

making
with

Captive

the

empire.

heart

autopsy
that

the

of

the

Earth

while1

rat

had

dead

Csgsar

saltpetre
long

throbbed

had

his

the

doctors

striven

to

with

the

lust

of

to

-and-

after

miserable

died

"

at

and

"

of

racters
cha-

But

painted
had

even

such

jostled,

big

by

battle-pictures

and

Conqueror

negatived,

is

play

history

Francaise.

Sacre"

"

latan,
char-

could

impersonate

Comedie

the

as

Cirque-Franconi-smelling
the

could

of

stage

the

of

image

who

actor

gives

is,

superlative

an

the

he

as

definite

fraud,"

on

Talma

of

Nero,

despot

boards

its

"

splendid

friend

classic

empirically

approaching

comedian

greater

and

run

were

away

universal

III.

LE

ROI

SOLEIL

AND

LA

BELLE

BOURBONNAISE.

PARIS,

THERE

is,

theatre

or

very

recent

the

French

interest

an

times,

You

the

the

student

de

the

regiment
intent

of

stage
elite

of

how,

"

Estate,

when

who

Roi

mon

her

all

was

!"

of

their

in

the

of

the

boxes

the

boxes,
a

next

told

the

Deputy

sternly

of

"

"

of
rebuked

her

Oh,

thereof;

Queen's

screaming

were

the

in

air

rent

the

on

with

us,

the

shouts

scowling
box,

latter

filled

of
with

Corps,

the

by

by

there

officers

the
du

played

who,

the

when

Versailles,

at

the

of

monarchy.

1789,

has

enthusiastic

of

scene

one

French

being

Campan

of

greater

the

knocking

Gardes

given

orchestra

far

inducing

the

was

Session

of

been

garrison

with

might,
the

of

nieces,

young

one

of

in

which,

possesses

result

idea

Madame
the

Hall

having

into

theatre,

the

September,

banquet

when

oh,

in

splendid

Versailles,

as

coffin

fraternise

palace

how,

the

came

of

and

large

which

history

that

Court.

the

with

hut

the

grand

occupied
Roi

into

unfortunate

to

the

Memoirs,
Richard,

converted

had

Flandre

conceived

which

palace

which
into

knows,

the

of

'remember

will

that

in

was

nails

Regiment
was

world

Legislature,

to

of

the

house

opera

entertainment

last

and

all

as

81.

May

the

mand,
com-

Vive
Third

them,

le

392

took

careful

have

note,

SOUTH.

DUE

JOUKNEY

of

doubt,

no

all

these

is

being

faits

et

gestes.
I

for the

boxes

which
hundred

timbers

rotting

dramatic

temple

constructed

of

fiftyyears

natural

elevation, but

while

the

From
when

queens,

played here,

whole

this

of

Olimpico.
out, and
that

Palace

Pray

in the

central

the

entertained

were

of the

of

observe
very

archway

hall I

theatre

by

shammest
strode

that

nium
prosce-

in

at

sham

du
one

kings

comedies
t6

were

the

right

left slaves.
consoled

for

Regiment

de

once

the

where

is

the

Corps.

Why,

scenery,

the

Teatro

enormous

solidlybuilt

perspective.

majestically the

the

as

street

street

to

was

permanent
of

the

its

foreground, are

central

the

the Gardes

Versailles
the

the

tragedies and
From

antique

with

rises
artificially

porch

; from

Palladio,

diminish
artificially

as

Greek

of

Vitruvius,

in

two

older

and

another

piazza of

plane

citizens

visit

which,
which

emerge.

that

inability to

Flandre

to

and

Remembering
my

the
old

used

soldiers

entered

ground

the

full

of cobwebs

Olimpico

lines of

from

out

diverging streets

recedes.

scene

and

solidlybuilt

is

told, in

built

was

the

in

are

wildernesss

Teatro

'the

on

in three

height,

which
a

Do

structure

theatre, we

there

But

Vicenza, the

at

strange charm.

first

What

it is !

scrupulously

scenery

the

ago

up

of the

in view

held

ramshackle

old

introduced, and

were

and

present

Parma,

at

be

to

fitted

regrettedthe deprivation,for

wonderful

that

Farnese

Palazzo

fixed

about

theatres

long-disused
know

and

theatre, which

the

see

Constitution.

of the

me

you

to

legislativeconference

Revision
to

able

not

was

Great

From

King,

toweringly periwigged, amazingly high-heeled, starred,

rib-

LE

ROI

boned,

SOLEIL

prelatesand

from

plebeian

the

jeweller,with

under

his

asks

her

the

her

on

in

that

the

find

cannot

their

and
coiffures,

their

grand gilt coaches,

Others

the

holy

the

roof.

kneel

headdress
The

Bertin

principal occupation,
costume

her

as

ladies
murmured

at

unpleasant

domestic

or

Bertin
a

beautiful
At

the

it ;

be

"

ruin

had

gilthead

colossal

her

"

the

found

the
the

"

when

by

and

; in

have

the

many

share
French

knocking
monarchical

Olympian

Vitruvius

and

same

husbands

and

debts

families

ladies."

in

her

younger

So
a

nail

ness
cold-

that

general opinion was

French

took

dress

contracted

women

the

with

Queen

of the

in

that

contact

made

mothers

out

the

expenditure

of the

small

into

scale

The

admit

to

carriage so

instantly to

occurred

; and

off

confidence

giddy

few

of the

that

increased

scenes

the

Versailles
most

wished

some

quarrels arose
would

Queen

all

lofty

so

of

knocked

her

necessarilymuch

was

are

heads

structures
super-

their

be

into

is

the

flowers

of

ride

floor

us

closet

stooping as they

the

tells

Majesty's.

seen

holding

not

historian

Mademoiselle

be

or

on

shall

the

carriages high enough

often

may

in

comes

Bertin

of which

feathers, and

in

gauze,

only

revolutionist

prime

headdresses

he

to

Mademoiselle

ladies.

casket

Then

d'Antin

Bertin,

devises

Well,

for which

francs.

Chaussee

the

French

She

ladies

windows.

thousand

from

in

Necklace

Diamond

famous

right

left ?

the

from

the

to

glide,smilingly,Boehmer,

may

Mademoiselle

of the

great artist.

there

hundred

way

Majesty,

dress

And

portal

pretty glitteringgaud,

trifle of four

sidlingin
of

his

the

arm"

the

From

courtiers.

door

393

BOUKBONNAISE.

BELLE

painted, perfumed.

streamed

the

LA

AND

the

moiselle
Made"

with

coffin.

theatre

moulded

Palladio

revised

on

and

'

394

DUE

JOURNEY

SOUTH.

distorted

settled,improved, exaggerated, and

Bernini
and

but

tragedies that
To

stage ?

the

have

been

dulled

my

Obviously it would
lie down

were

where

at full

they

sense

been

have

saloons, and, with

oak, strive

to listen

Comtesse

the

very

the

attributes

he

wool

the

on

the

affable

pointing

the

bids

Huntsman,

yet copied ;

not

I listen

the

Royal

forbid
nor

as

the
of

the
the

that

should

warrior, old
staircase

laurels

and
"

"

nor

his

such

no

offended
from

answer

of

out

Royal

window,

monarch

who,

Grand

which

he

pays

to

comes

cousin, you
still nobler

"

"

great Conde,

painfully creeping
bend

on

Heaven

gentleman

the

nor

Seigneur,

crying,

strike

the

the

Nay,

to

My

has

raging

Louis.

stick

broken,

he

the

place at

my

use

the

Grand

great courtiers, bidding

take

hear

can

cane

loftycompliment

grand
your

Soyecourt,

arm,

de nuit.

cas

en

of

accents

flings his gold-headed

"

Tartuffe

impertinent

an

Moliere's

to

now

originalwhom

an

the

of

listen, but

and

passionate

receiving

"

of

de

beguiling, as

benignant still,and

more

the

share

table, and

mark

amazement

author

modest

M.

ridiculous

dramatist

now

terror, and

envy,

the

the

to

for

for the

la Valliere
on

and

longed

and

lays his hand

he

as

in

grass

I listened

de

to

polished

the

How

tender

Mademoiselle

perfidiesto

mute.

Fine-Ear,

hear

grow.

now

the

past.

giftedservant.

Monarque,

and

tremendously

to

prone

of the

sheep's backs

Grand

condescendingly
and,

ear

one

echoes

of Fortunio's

soft

utters

of those

one

could
d'Aulnoy's fairy-tale,

the

of

the

to

highly glorified

invisible

were

the floor of

length on

this

on

highest degree indecorous

in the

Olympian

voice

played

comedies

wondrous

in the

actors

and

Mansard

by

under

compliment

the

up

weight

which

he

LE

ROI

offers to

AND

LA

Jack

Tar

SOLEIL

the

rough

Versailles, and

is

which

he

whilst

cruise

against

sits

the

And

she

he

"

of his

the

de

Due

de

Maine, the

Toulouse

around

to

crushed

and

diamonds,

be

to

called

Again

But

we

the

the

from

in

genius of the
deserted

this

endeavour

opened
a

cold

silver

to

the

basin
cake

and

It

The

and

wax

in

flinging

set

tapestry from
Genoa

Versailles

declines

past.
the

of

he

Invincible

is

in

eight
de
the

which

cas

had
a

the

chambre

en

Burgundy

died.

here, if

inspire me

with

much

as

conqueror,

of

Doge

in which

removed

the

prodigious four-poster,all

gar^ons

flask of

yellow

his

sumptuous

the

"

the

"

haughty

just
in

his

just kicked, presenting

of the

"

brocade

full of water,
of

bed

Babel.

of

nor

of

Glaces

displayed

had

bale

see

Chartres, and

portrait of

should

windows

chicken

night, a.

he

place

fancy.

de

sleeping apartment

very

carving ancl gilding and

the

have

vasty deep

is the

des

the

benignant

receiving with

"

spiritof

in the

are

There

Louis.

which

whole

Galerie

me."

apogee

Genoa, and, with

might

dog

of

potentate with

Gobelins.

the

he

serenity as

marrow-bone

with

Doge

follow

neither
the

at

into

way

most

can

Due

him

the

him

the

in

the

last

Grand, with

le

and

on

his

of

Victory to

But

picture

to

try

courtesy the humbled

the

the

periwig

pride, enthroned

Dauphin,

sublime

I ordered

to him

incidents

flagshipled

My

countenance.

now.

and

Comte

his

on

him

pomp

the

to

comes

allotted

obeyed you," interruptsLouis

smiles

hear

"

Bart, who

stool

narrates

and

gracefullest inclination
of

has

English.

395

EOURBONNAISE.

hero, Jean

lionised, and

action," he begins,
"

BELLE

rude

any where

morning,
have

de nuit

the

Surely,

"

mortier,

softly
usually
a

little

floated, during the

wick

"

our

Charles

396

the
the

hefore

night

which, spread

slept.

Then

woman

who

touch

one

the

floor, the

surgeon

nursed

the
nurse

of

nature

in

and

"

the

lit de

veille, on

chambre

de

valet

first

James's,

and
physician-in-chief,

and

when

King

old

The

presence.

execution

the

St.

night-lightat

his

on

SOUTH.

another

just such

had

First

DUE

JOURNEY

he

this

There

the

Invincible

the

drapery.

seen

by

Holy

their

mumble
courtiers
Invincible

in

stockings

"

for it.

the

with

grace

in

bed;

and

other

On
but

knees.
down.

the

who

the

day,

"

entries

wig,

still in

with

want

have
and

ease

takes

those

on

"

now

"

Another

He

he

by

thing
generally some-

they

himself.

bed,

anything

privilegedto

when

days

his

grandes

Invincible

it is

We

not^be
Grand

curtains.

address."

curtains,

must

want

that

are

dressing

of

act

Every

who

and

The

the

is
the

to

else

somebody

of

set

behold

puts

the
his

on

St. Simon's

agility,"he
he

physic

occasions, is

one.

Being dressed, his Majesty

bed's

Invincible

great courtiers

to

the

to

presented

introduced

himself.

receives
short

entitled

petitionsthrough
then

are

Invincible

the

least

cautiously closes

as

quarter-past nine

The
is

then

always wanting something,

are

shaves

At

water

The

chaplain.

and

peruke

courtiers

the

belonging

word

that

obeisances.

their

Court

wig,

mortals.
and

bewigged.

they

Without

meaner

Chamberlain
make

his

the

is at

premier valet de chambre, cautiouslyopening the hed

hands

old

Shams.

of

Comedy

vast

the

an'infant,enter

was

him.

embraces

had

foot.
The
Then

All

clerical persons

laity remain
his

says

his prayers,

who

are

standing,

Majesty repairsto

present fall

with

his

kneeling at

their

on

heads

cabinet, whither

his

their
bent
he is

LE

HOI

LA

AND

SOLEIL

397

BOURBONNAISE.

BELLE

followed

by

whom

to

great mob

he

gives his

depart, and
children

there

and

Majesty gives
Great
the

audience

Koyal cabinet,

and

the

rather

he

Invincible

his

Ministers

the

when

his

bouche

And

dessert.
he

Dauphin
'behind

the

and

their

them

asks

would

to

brings

bow, and

but

after

later

for

Then

convert

But

the

in

le Due

are

when

the

the

dishes, the Invincible

low

tabouret

longed
pro-

to

courses

enormously.
the

Sometimes

; but

to

stand

he

never

d' Orleans

Chamberlain, and, with napkin

is

Monsieur

brought

for his

takes
on

his brother

makes

or

le

serve

of three

permitted

asks

moderate, the

eats

Due

at

repast,

morning

indigestion.

Grand

sit down.

King

alone

be

Invincible

the

to

foreign

the

moderate

it should

that

rule, the

sit down.

pavement

the

mass

this last consists

Monsieur

the

is sometimes

petit

wishes

from

or

galleryand

the
to

after

mass;

privatepew,

as

down

way

to

noon.

dines,

even

suffers

like

not

long

watch.

keeps
going

of

door

the

At

Royal parent's chair during dinner

place of

arm,

As

never

elevation

is commanded
;

the

His

council, which

he

When

petit convert

and

hour

In

public audience.

in
a

architect.

is

Majesty

Immediately

hold
an

physicians insist

de
qfficier
tres

it is

Invincible

table.

his

same

received

are

one,

square

and

edifice.

until half
At

the

on

sacred

ambassadors
and

that

his

Guard

the

of

Captain

his natural
time

of courtiers.

repairs to the chapel.

balcony, is

the

the

dignitaries-

this

about

his

Mansard,

crowd

proclaims

his bed-chamber
of

is

These

Invincible

Usually

to

functionaries,

State

day.
the

with

only

governors.

Gallery there

Presently

for the

orders

remain

their

and

of courtiers

his

if he

profound

accommodation.
c

398

It

is

placed

makes

her

the

at

post

as

"assists"

in-chief
is

there

Invincible

The
seven

completely

very
in

May.

to

think

that

holds

grand

his

aged

feels

He

hasten

review

of his

mounted

on

the

saddle.

But

on

the

chased

own

The

which

morrow,

his

away

on

and

the

bedside.
this

has
the

to be
Still

side

doctors

is

the

last

time

and
and

Marly,

He

eve

is four

slight attack
of his

the

they

fever

The

priests have

of

day,

things

he

the

not

fiddlers

in

fever.

convenes

returns,

and

hours

Saint's

got ready, and

grave.

the

and

the

to

He

splendidly arrayed

the

enraged

gendarmes
at

charger.

is

concert

the

tidings

mortality.

For

terrace

he

day

next

of

the

to

are

be
missed,
dis-

all their

way.
It is

the

at

the

Arabian

superb

feels better, orders

fiddlers

them

up

and

the

is

King

household.

behold

shall

seventy-

breaks

he

with

suspected

even

is

seriouslyill ;

Great

Invincible, who

past the

repast; but

chillymorning

couriers

The

be

is

send

to

chevaux-legers defile before

march

of her

physician-

he

Then

poorly one
he

that

should

eyes

the

at

bursting.

report gets wind

he

exception

The

daily until

gorge

respective Courts.

their

that

to

indeed.

foreign ambassadors

the

ever

services.

without

age,

lady

by right

of France.
corner

No

with

is admitted

remote

continues

of

years

who

Children

for his

need

no

in

chair.

Royal

petit convert,

Lamothe,

of the

governess

the

at

de

of the Marechale

of the

back

appearance

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

mortification

gangrene

makes
gargons

which

keeps mounting

has

seized

and

mounting.

tolerably dignifiedend
de chamlre

whom,

of

reflected

one

it; he
in the

of his
The

legs, and
Invincible

naively

mirror

tells two

opposite his

400

Mm

slightgood.

some

and

worse

have

and

worse,

lingered much

in front

the

of that

and
the
which

I had

Silent

Emptiness.

yet

civil

efforts

decorative

heroine

This

the

whom

and

made
Belle

"La

some

dressing-

mob

Paris
of

song

the

to

came

worthy
praise-

furniture

the

the

grimly grotesque

and

through

us

together

bring
of

We

with

the
Bour-

"

La

Belle

La

maitresse

Est

tres

Elle

est

applied

was

said,

so

that

prophecy.

written

ditty
"

far back
its
"

as

le

sur

Pauvre

Blaise,

son

aise,

grabat.

in the

Antoinette

the

the

affair of the

forts de

by

1768

concluding
The

de

mal

by

poissardes and

senseless

Bourbonnaise,

to Marie

unpopularity caused
The

little

Painted

conducted

to

period.

paid

song

of her

made

unhappy Queen

had

tyranny

of

on

ness
selfish-

much

Antoinette, in which

specimens

the

of

bed

eloquent thing

world, who

been

The

stereotyped vocal twang

the

of Marie

could

suited

have

might

great Desolation

the

over

grows

dies.

vanity,so

most

gardien, with

have

work

of

bonnaise

is

in this

illustrative

the

of

room

the

met

the

he

gilt balustrades

and

profligacyand

about

private apartments

handsomely

he

conductors.

and

pomp

much

was

palace-guidesall

the

and

so

debt

was

carved

friend's

good

my

meanness,

There

the

but

repeated ;

is

dose

days afterwards

two

pride

common

The

longer at

of

much

so

SOUTH.

DUE

prodigious four-posterthan

convenience

which

of

JOUKNEY

"

stanza

la

Diamond

Halle, who

Chevalier

the

with

its

de

lace.
Neckroared

Boufflers, it

pretty tune,

contained

Bourbonnaise,"

early days

recked

darkly-terrible

sings the

ballad-

LE

ROI

bier."

See
with

here.
the

Ya

dormir

Sans

lit et

hut

The

d'lionneur

the

gown.

water

for

to

hands

who

dressed, she
followed
her

to

her

own

all the

in

goes

into

"

awaits

of

of the
fine

the

hand

the

Princess,
is

head

chamber, and

the
her

closet, where
Mademoiselle

her.

specimens

the

out

Majesty's

ladies

Bertin,

dress-patternsher

her

de

skirt ;

the

it to

hands

women,

her

Princess

must

When

by

pours

If

in.

d'lionneur

Queen.

milliner, Mademoiselle

negotiationswith

Majesty."
with

But
are

dame

curtseys

only by

calls her
her

the

it to

wash

to

hi

femmes

hands

d'honneur

chambre, who

de

femme

dame

does

encircled

This

women.

hands

Eoyal

present, the

be

than

faster

d'atours, her

puts

telling his

voice, is

run

dames

that

the

his

in

gardien,

The

and

ordinary

on

de toilette.

stands

her

linen

sofa.

cabinet

her

chaise,

sans

peerless Queen

cliambre, and

Blood

et

memories

my

without

and

aise,

son

sans

in the

are

tale ;

talk.

dames

Bourbonnaise

fauteuil

shroud

Pauvre

Sans

401

BOURBONNAISE.

La

stereotyped twang

hackneyed
bald

We

BELLE

life without

her

finishes

"

writer,

LA

AND

SOLEIL

vengeance

still in the

marched

from

Paris.

They

have

One

of the

door, the
blood.

the

Gardes

du

crowd
The

It is half

antechamber

Corps

striking at

Queen

is

Cour

holding

la

They

his

Halle

sailles,
at Ver-

are

The

Guard

musket

Koom.

across

till his face is covered

A

lady

have

d'Honneur.
Great

of the

him

is in bed.

the

we

-past four in the

forts de

at Chaville.

are

shrieking in

entered

change, although

scene

the

poissardes and

bellowing and
mob

the

private apartments.

The

morning.

does

awakens

her

the
with

crying :

402

"

Get

JOURNEY

Madame

up,

don't

towards

the (Eil
she

scapes,

Paris,
him

scaffold
"

the

in

La

Belle

I declare

Conciergerie,
Place

it

used

to

sing

Yersailles

to

me

they

bones

dry
Behold

of

her

the

was

to

her

is

has

after

there,

the
"

all grey

and

the

but

brush,"
visited

"

woful

her
the

bloody

and

Nationale.

otherwise

her

in

made

Soulavie
David

known
the

as

sketch
the

of

"

"

as

she

to

Pauvre

Marie

Antoinette

Tribunal

but

"

collection

is

of

was

the

at

in

copy

painter

David

"

for

"

is, queen-like in

by David,

visit

Paul

in

not

gentle-hearted Flaxman,

Paris, resolutely refused

"

deBoufflers'

misery

the

painter

"

the

seek,

Revolutionary

discrowned

the

Burke, in

Chevalier

picture

all

up

Swedish

for

must

you

woke

Edmund

But

of the

which

Bourbonnaise

as

her.

!"

vascular, and

in the

there

is

magnificent

whom

bid

to

melody

that

Belle

La

the

original in

Bibliotheque

Sacre,"

child

inanimate

dramatic

appalling little pen-and-ink

from

the

song,

from

sentence

to

Bourbonnaise

of the

was

described

splendidly

extremity

which

of the last stanza

Delaroche's

him

Temple,

and

Pauvre

La

remembrance

live.

unconsciously prophetic

she

"

picture.. She

Bourbonnaise"

with

go

tumbril

beautiful, smiling, radiant

undying language,

passing

"

made

history

Werthmiiller's

to

continue

to

the

to

when

me

; that

hairbreadth

la Revolution.

de

Bourbonnaise

that

time

her

hurry

many

the

to

the

they put

ladies

Two

it.

Varennes,

to

of hed

out

length, after

there, and, after

the

to

progress

herself

King's apartments,

the

Tuileries,

farewell

At

yourself; fly to

dress

tying

Boeuf.

de

reaches

the

to

throws

her, without

petticoatupon

SOUTH.

to

stop

She

King's apartment."
a

DUE

now

of

an

of
in
the

stained
blood-

when
an

he
open

LE

HOI

window

the

her,

its

In

of

and

gown

as

we

the

to

David's

of

to

be

the

the

"

and

to

faithful

Court

Imperial

behind

rolled

statue,

by

into

the

face

of

blood-stained

in

seemingly
her

over

"

form
trans-

loveliness.

exceeding
brush

face,

would

touches

few

delight

intense

stealing

to

he

who

lived

"

Baron

Yet

profile

with

man

her

in

tied

arms

Queen

mortis

ugly.

dreadful

the

see

we

rigor

ignoble,

the

her

doubt,

no

Julien,

lethargy,

this

Was

executed,

sketch,

cadaverous,

Antoinette

Gower's

Ronald

of

representative

Marie

and

cap

Lord

of

guillotine.

Citoyenne

kind

mob

in

wife

with

death-cart

coarse

her

see

way

the

the

403

BOURBONNAISE.

BELLE

Julien,

Citoyenne

when

people,

squalid

on

the

with

LA

AND

SOLEIL

all

portray

to

his

art

the

he

when

made

the

of

courtezans

this

hideous

"

draught

was

and

Well,

"

going
sofa,

with

to

without

no

at

sleep

bed

save

all

at

chair,

"

events,

her

ease

without

heap

of

La

""without

shroud,

quicklime.

"

Bourbonnaise

Pauvre

throne,
without

without

bier,

IV.

QUEEN'S

PLAYTHING.

June

PARIS,
I

of

farewell

BADE

painted

my

upon

out

of

word

with

the

cemented
While

horses

toiled

Kubla

Khan

had

town

grow

been

arid.

of

tenon

the

is

of

died

sickness

as

whole

Sevigne,

only

Coleridge's

yet

palace

where

were

young
of

under

at

night,
of

dead

big

before

all

established

wagon-loads

as

exhalations

every

in

Dome

forbidden,

camp

men.
French-

thousand

six

employed
the

are

selfishness

Pleasure

flow

was

the

and

hade

water

It

in

speak

and

from

earth.

to

not

was

workmen

the

whom

thing

and

waste,

Versailles

and

here,

one

of

Many

de

left
It

in

It

Grand

paradise,

of

pride

men

it.

at

of

thousands
of

"decree"

decreed

excavated

such

Madame

day

could

penalties,

severest

men

and

up

of

sweat

thousand

six

earthly

Palace

monument

thirty-

crowds

incessantly

and

Niagara
the

hy

precious

the

of

the

to

made

paradise
A

stones

blood

night

Colossus,

desert.

enormous

Louis

soldiers,

to

The

Stone

earthly

sandy

that

.Xanadu.

as

the

a-huilding

was

the

to

canvas,

Monarque

the

to

the

the
Main-

according
and

dying

Versailles.

almost

continuous

matter

and

for

wanton

when

astonishment,
waste

of

human

we

remember

life, not

only

in

QUEEN'S

works
and

of

but

war

in works

fulness

fought

been

the

so

of

eat

bread

say,

that

Moloch

the

when

Grand

monks,

of

when

thousands

and

famine

had

the

made

husks

and

parasites,opera

people

Yet

there

of the

by

the

plenty left

were

"

the

tyranny

du

droit

There
on

that

he

Behold,

might

hangmen,

see

at

twenty-fiveand

between
a

whole

the

be

any

the

nurse,

held

multitude

King, all those

him

groan

Quinze,

collected

was

the

to

of Louis

accession

throng

thirty

mercilesslysqueezed

clergypaying
to

left

nation

not

one

gardens

up

below,

people belong

on

and
to

from
rouge

great courtier, taking the

of his

arms

my

"

gabelle,to

and

nobles

holiday when
the

priests,

petites mattresses,

avenement"

people enough

were

from

"

the

of

joyeux

the

miserables"

the

with

been,

dancers, hairdressers, tailors,

was

tax-gatherers when,

the

of this

presence

have

wonders,

almost

one

left in France.

millions, possibly. There

tinder

they

weeds, and

and

grass

should

there

land

the

over

peasantry that

"

relieved

was

swept

boiled

of

the

decimated

milliners, play actors, lawyers, fiddlers, and

French

including

more,

had

wretched

grands seigneurs and

nuns,

tants
Protes-

slaughtered,outraged,tortured
plague

Monarque

been

had

Revocation

the

by

the

in

industrious

the

earth

when

that

and

when

draff

long, splendid

Malplaquet

kingdom

been

swill broth
of

and

of the

vitals of

the

made

exception

Provence,

wrung

fain to

were

Nantes;

of

dragonnades

population
and

out

children, had

and

women

in

driven

the

Quatorze,

of virtuous

thousands

Edict

the

Louis
Blenheim

when

"

when

had
of

time

of

during

of peace,

of

reign

maleficent

405

PLAYTHING.

the
Hard.

of Versailles

baby

the

terrace

said
You."

Louis

to

so

him,
There

406

left scribes

were

write, and

to

the

in
"

do

useless

battles

and

the

month,

mothers

hundred

Lebel

arch-pander
there

Generaux

priests and
Chatelet
on

monks

"

his old age,

Clarendon,

the

England, just before

the

protectionof, a King

the

most

"

It

best

mercy

beaux

was

part of

slow
an

that

any

at the

his

sun

"

the
aux

Fermiersfor the

of
to

time

the

break

of the

singular
does

Civil wars,
a

not

that

assert

And, for

harmless

in

immediately

was

ment
comple-

enjoyed by, and

were

under

disposition,and
of

greatest example

prince hath

espritsse

Pare

more

history,

were

Talleyrand

of the

out

now

by

bourreau

idea

any

most

the

exemplary piety

"Les

with."

of the

the

the

remarked

livres

there

society." Well,

of

the

few

brand, and

to

form

breaking

under

for

the

for

hundred

stolen

generations

pervaded

the

chastity, and

left

those,"

could

There

will

inch

children

scourge,

blessings,they

of all these

in

paint, for

square

their

beginning

happiest country

the

the

lived in France

Revolution

at

to

Petersburg,

them."

powder

see

may

china-maniacs

upon

but

then

you

St.

at

monarch

boy

Majesty's seraglio at

rack,

had

which

sweetness

which

fatten

None

who

the

preceding

to

"

wheel.

the

and

for yet three

to

hang,

to

make

to

for

people enough

were

plunder

to

food

have

for his

Palace

peoples obey

guineas

left to

enough

sieges;

the

which

text

the

left to make

pottery for

willinglygive a

Cerfs

in

teach

to

famous

their

they please ;

as

people enough

were

that

him

set

to

degree

copybook preserved

Kings

of low

enow

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

ever

been

sobriety,
endowed

rencontrent."

train, dragging its lazy length along for the

hour, that bore

journey occupied

thrice

the

time

me

back
that

to

it did

Paris

yet had

I should

not

the
have

408

chant, which
tune

His

campaign.

ridicule

and

odd

So

pleasantest
will

"

the

popular

La

de

Tour

pilgrims
there

curious

very

when

Madame

Poitrine,

heard

to

catching

composed
had
"

at

to

wet-nurse

who

good
was

the

It

the

fetched

the

Dauphin,

followed

Court

the

s'en va-t-en
of Versailles

the

The

guerre"
;

and

the

way

edifices
is called

connection

is

been

East

of

France

dead

absurd

an

va-t-en

act

She

ballad

wandering
and

to

XVI.

Louis

of

with

guerre,"
minstrel

Villars.

speedilybecame
vogue

what

trifle and

had

s'en
some

and

English

appropriatelyenough,

son

of Boufflers

camp

Trianon

Blenheim

cradle

originally,perhaps, by

convivially

of the

of

in

song

architectural

"Malbrouck

was,

people

possibly wondered

named,

child's

va-t-en

Army,

One

Petit

this

from

been

the

thousands

of

woman,

my

most

as

in

this.

have

victor

that

s'en

long

Marlborough.

infant

sing by

tune.

Malbrouck

the

has

mark

be between

The

how

for Cherubin's

Many

of

one.

sixty years

was

could

See

Versailles

of

was,

have

village at

when,

"

ideas

Malbrouck

which

Versailles

to

"

we

way

Malbrouck."

Churchill, Duke

John

Now

Navy."

pretty toy Swiss

connection

as

It's

as

in the

American

us

of

remembrances

which

victory."

Beaumarchais

Figaro," and
"

with

have

in the
"

de

Mariage

of

va-t-en

Helena,
Casas,

association

of

melody

merry

St.

at

of

out

beginning
s'en

to Las

with

associated

be

the

the

enjoyable

most

appropriated by

know,

we

and

always

guerre,"

it

he remarked

capricious is

the

at

stigmatise all things, even

can

villanously

"

"Malbrouck

forgotten

not

old song,

the

alluding to

saddle

was

song

hum

to

his

into

war

had

He

guerre."

accustomed

was

vaulted

he

as

"

he

SOUTH.

DUE

JOUKNEY

of

the

song

the

rage

became

QUEEN'S

409

PLAYTHING.

took

universally contagious. Everybody

absurd

burden,

stanzas

of the

ballad

firescreens; and

in

grand pantomime,

"

Hameau

Suisse."

remember,
when,
who

from
is

of

the

in

whim

moving

historic

chalets

at

M.

heard
travels

is

The
too

immense

s'en

little tower

"

mimic

had
his

during

surmise

Petit

most

he

that

Crusaders.

the

forgotten

that

guerre

the
at

of

of

be

not

gravely to
by

burial

give

to

declared

va-t-en

France

and

group

it should

led him

of the

gardens
to be

taken

hundred

in

out

the

That

it

Trianon

is

wonderful

this

of

"it

less

is

alleysand

in waterworks

in

of

innumerable
mum

vases,

Delphini."

splendour

in

these

As

with

with
For

garden

Dr.

than

of

trees,

statues, ancient

all M
the

old

pleasaunce,

walks, groves

fountains, everywhere adorned

and

confess, a little

single draught.

ago,

into

palace were,

at

said

years

country laid

modern,

and

the

physician,

nearly two

and

least of her

; but

black,

encouragement

sprightly Queen
at

will

you

in

the -death

this

toy

ascends

all clad

page,

afterwards

to

tower,

Malbrouck

tidingsof

one

her

me.

Lister, the

canals

the

but

Malbrouck

with

powerful

whole

to

Trianon

brought

in

de

and

young

East, which

been

for

"

built

Madame

needed

interest

air of

identified

enough

Petit

in the

had

It

Malbrouck"

top of her

the woful

Antoinette

espies

Chateaubriand

de

the

tune

with

by

the

that

as

Marie

the

is to

off, she

husband.

popular

that

It
song,

afar

speeding

her

de

"Tour

produced

was

Nicolet.

Theatre

the

and

fans

by paintings on

"Malbrouck"

1783

at

have

needs

must

illustrated

were

The

mirontaine."

mironton,

"Mironton,

the

humming

to

sop's Fables

rest, the

gardens puzzles

abundance
super-

and

dis-

410

tresses

Whither

you.
of Diana

Altogether
gravel

of
you

and

in

planted

there

and

by

of

it

is, there

nothing

The

high authority as

but

some

in the

disestablished

they

and

velvet

are

which
are

who

was

many

would

porteurs.
of the

an

used

the

reigns of

the

But

Trianon.

the

here

statuary,

there

is such
you

are

Tooke's

First

X.,

theon,
Panall

most

of the
Arthur

of

the

thousand

charming

Third

state

leon,
Napo-

Philippe.

hideous

in

design ;

them,

and

cloth,
make

garded,
slightlydisre-

panels beautifullypainted,
I
"

dare

Pauvre

that

say

for this

and

least

who

the
are

came

there

Bourbonnaise"

pounds

hapless Queen
Young,

old

Louis

corner,

Antoinette.

admirers

and

on

cheerless;"
of

the

render

In

and

gilding,scarlet

can

chair, the

Marie

and

described

full

and

mostly

are

blazonry

been

remise,

carving

as

have

angular,

Charles

eagerly give

monuments

Petit

to

Sedan

English

only

the

it, and

yews,

Dictionary of Mythology,

appearance.

by

for

of

mandy
Nor-

conical

Lempriere,

"extensive,

heraldic

old

with

gesture, that

Trianon

coaches

brave
sufficiently
is

Le

and

and
of

as

Grand

gaudy

as

vistas

relieved

As
of

Mirror?

vast

clipped

tains
Foun-

mad.

XVIII.,

Louis

still

attitude

attaches

interest

carriages used

These

and

much

Smith's

of the

very

the

huge water-hasins,

so

much

so

gone

Gardens

of

of

William

plasticand

is

the

Tapis Vert,

of

with

horse-chestnut.

of

conflict

Dr.

and
made

of

Basin

To

the

; to

dizzy

box-edgings

groves

astounding

reminded

the
and

margins

first ?

of Flora

or

dazed

and

wander

depressing geometrical patterns,

magnificent as
an

Latona,

marble

SOUTH.

Thicket

grow

poplars

DUE

shall you

to the

or

Lawn

the

or

JOURNEY

chaise-d-

melancholy

in the

hither

gardens
just

of

two

QUEEN'S

of what
it

'89, speaks with

before

years

calls the

he

"

Chinese

Sir William

more

that

art

that

in

more

on

it of

effort than

more

the

other

conceive

to

that

describes

of in books

On

easy

approbation
He

is

"

taste."

garden

there

Brown

is not

in

"

of Mr.

"it

read

we

that

than

introduce

can

of what

than

of

jardinAnglais."

adds

expense

critic admits

the

and

Chambers

and

nature

"

taste

gardening ;"

qualifiedkind

Queen's

in the

disposed

as

411

PLAYTHING.

is not

hand,

anything

here

woods,

"

rocks, lawns, lakes, islands, cascades, grottoes,walks, temples,

and

villages.

even

The

for

escape

from

'in

she

topol,took

; but

green

He

more.

Le

neatly-trimmed

Petit

was

built

himself

by

with

ribbed

the

arch

of

His

of

acres

villa itself is
for

the

gave
she

the

Sebas-

by painting

would

have

empyrean
with

dead

done
with

borders
when

great
;

which

he

here
was

Trianon

repaired to it,very

matter.

and

of

Marie

English garden

no

Petit

grace

livelyemerald

the

Dubarri

small-pox, of

so

Marshal

before

stars

happily

was

hundred

successor

Antoinette, who, when

the

encircled
He

the

hut

power,

Quinze
of

his

before

been

when

Nature

upon

you

every

him

the

The

Louis

sickened

Versailles.

lunch

has

almost

had

her

Trianon.

of

he

box.

laid out

Antoinette
the

have

Here

demonstrated

problems

Nature

Hong

to

go

Suisse.

Soyer, the cook,

sward

Notre, had

would

truly elegant."

Notre, who

liberty of improving

of flowers, and

festoons

Le

to

came

Crimean

parched

M.

Alexis

his staff

the

Hameau

robbing

in

is

elegance,may

of Euclid's

by

possesses,
and

Pelissier

the

verdure

all its

the

me

immensity

successful

highly
which

the

and

gravel

with

Give

me.

of Love

Temple

of Love,

Temple

Kong

The

to
to

at

It
Louis
die at
Marie

philosophically

412

slept in
call

her

Petite

Dubarri's

the

She

Vienne."

continued
made

bed.

quiet

this

village,with

its Maison

head

dairywoman

grand

these

play

being

at

world

and

through them,

little Swiss

the

would

been

people
been

and

de

to

The
the

were

Polignac.

permitted

the

all the

French

its

miller,

France.

Jules

have

only

of

dairymaids

Comtesse

have

cheese

lailli,the

Koyal
Her

could

Suisse

show

us

through

end

immeasurable

to

of the

better

rolls, and

the

window
her

on

basement

its

and

windows,

you

shrink

you

up,

grown

was

of the

If

hinges
the
and

and

upper

in

little

for

so

much

so

anguish

buildings

securely locked, and

so

much

dairy and

dairymaids busy

butter-moulds.

the

of

I would

franc-expectinggardien
It

rooms.

and

Queen

the

doors

all

were

thanked

have

even

the

that

glad

was

Hameau

the

for

despair.

open

gardeners
her, with

The

Blood

industrious

and

only have

Her

coquettish

bloodshed, rapine, poverty, and

less

to

"La

or

could

glades

this

Queen.

and

and

poor

butter

more

! if she

Dairy.

the

personages

The

chapter !
much

Lamballe

de

its

the

was

wish

Bailli, its dainty Windmill,

du

and

of

Schonbrunn,"

enchanting spot

princes of

were

Princesse
If

her

Malbrouck,

beadle

Ah

architects

and

the

Petit

picturesquely meandering

piece d'eau;

de

accused

was

refreshingly verdant

and

tiny streamlet

Tour

Le

laughed.

in

laugh

to

She

"

acquisition

new

SOUTH.

DUE

JOURNEY

from

making

fancy

that

their

churns

You

imagination try

doll's

the

brutallyreveal
floors.

he

scarcely
offered

interestingto

more

with

across

come

had

of the

peep

the

and

their

house, and

entire
the

peep

saw

you

to

are

fagade swing

mysteries of the

discreetlythrough

to fill the

different

rooms

QUEEN'S

with

real little
have

you

ship

are

Because,

gazing

so

upon

usually

it

seems

not

the

to

Why
we

me,

He

in
must

of

attractive

most

they

are

are

so

when

same

model
a

our

of

features

in

attractive ?
fond

of

belongings,and

fancy with Lilliputianrepresentationsof

he

over-wise

fascination

or

when

over-foolish
he

gazes

on

who
the

does
field of

obscura.

END.

THE

BRADBURY,

carriage?

unconsciously

Lilliputianrepresentationsof

yield to strange

camera

model

interior of the

among

the

of the

cabins

stern

exhibition.

peopling them

ourselves.

into the

industrial

every

of

or

done

not

you

the

peered through

of war,

Models

Have

people.

413

PLAYTHING.

AGNEW,

"

CO.,

PRINTERS,

WHTTEFRTARP.

VIZETELLY

CO.'S

6-

IMPORTANT

NEW

WORK

LIGHTS

BY

ON

Vols.

Two

RECENT

THE

large Post

bound, price 25s.

8vo, attractively

SOCIAL
C.

E.
WITH

JILTS
A

Mrs.

:"

Jilted

GKENVILLE-MUBKAY.

ABOUT

with

Widow

Pinkerton"

Drysalter"

ENGRAVINGS

300

Nice

Little

Greek

"

The

"

:-Of

Stock

Chairman
Company
D'Orenbarre
Lady Goldsworth
Palmhold"
Mrs.
Mrs.
Decoy"

Mrs.

AND

Eton

SPENDTHRIFTS
Lord

.-"Prefatory"

Rottenham

Calling Earley"

Tommy

Barker"

The

Dabble"

Dicky

Duff.

Sylvie"

WOMEN
Miss

Rough"
The
Roughs"
Nautical

I
Madame

Rose"

ROUGHS
man

Lances

"

HAVE
de

AND
Garrison

The

Flirt"

The

Professional

"

the

Genus

Financial
Mirabel

Generally"

Adventurer
Hildacourse

monial
MatriA

"

Pro-

Lily Gore

"

Lawkins.
of

Eton

VOL.

II.
Lord

of

Leaders"

An

Innynges"
Tho

Preliminary"
Very Noble

Seatless

A
:"

Charles

Malplaquet"

Lords

Erudite
M.P.'s"

Luke

Lord
Lumber"

Sir

Members

Money

"

Bags-

Member.

Ex-Beauty"Miss

Jenny-Mademoiselle

I'Esbrouffe-Tourbillon.

HIGH

Rough

"

(M.P.'s):"
Contingent"

KNOWN

Gaunter"

:-Drawbacks

Gambletons"

Irish

The

Party

M.P.'s"

Foreign

OF
The

Rough"

and

Marquis

GENTLEMEN

HONORABLE

Free
Members"
Crotchety
Workingmen
Beery M.P.'s"

SOME

The

Lord

"

Daisy

Westminster"
Oxford
Winchester,
Athletic
and
Undergraduates
Reading

OF

CONTENTS

Inconsolable

An

Miss

Harrow,

"

"

Poer"

Tryon"
and

UNDERGRADUATES

and
Rugbeians"
Boys" Rugby
Sporting
Undergraduates
University Discipline
Religious Undergraduates.
Various

"

"

SCHOOLBOYS

PUBLIC
"Of

Pious

Martingale"

"Bella

Countess

Lady
Prago

of Jilts.

ADVENTURESSES

Joint

The

Mrs.

Pair

ARTISTS.

I.
Zoe,

Entr'acte"

Unmercenary

An

AND

Adventurers

An

VOL.
Belle"

County

Pickles"

Estate"

ADVENTURERS
lessional

and

WELL-KNOWN

BY

OF

Western

Love

LENS:

PHOTOGRAPHS.

CONTEMTS

Jilt"

"SIDE

SOCIETY."

THE

BY

OF

AUTHOR

ENGLISH

UNDER

ILLUSTRATED

PUBLICATIONS.

LOW

Bruiser"

DEGREE

:-How

The
NobleMade"
Roughs
are
The
Medical
Rough"
Legal Rough"
Vandal
Rough"
The
The
Tourist
Roughs"
Rough"
The
Low-Class
Women
Rough"
Roughs.

Rough"
Wife-Beating

The

Clerical

TELLY

VI ZE

In

type, and

Svo, good readable

Grown

MUMMER'S
AUTHOR

BY
"A

OF

PRINCE
BY

LOVER."

PANINE.

GEORGES

OHNET,
IRONMASTER."

"THE

OP

from

ABRIDGMENT,

WITHOUT

GEORGES

AUTHOR

FROM

AT

TRANSLATED
'Numa
It

The

'

Roumestan
is

BY

Volume

MR.

OF

"THE

OF

"SOCIETY'S

be

no

fault,

ROBINSON.

WATERS

L.

"STRANGELY

AND

LUCRE

HILL,
OF

no

ness.
weak-

published during January.

MARAH,"

"SALI.Y,"

AND

MIDNIGHT
QUEEN,"

; it has

JAMES.

HENRY

WARD.

JOHN

INA

AND

LAYARD.

OR, LOVE

BY
AUTHOR

MR.

MABEL

BY

BETWEEN

G.

really a perfect work

"

will

Novels

CORSARS;
AUTHOR

J.

BUTLER'S
BY

THE

MRS.

a masterpiece
; it is
"
whole.
harmonious

following One-

ABROAD

DAUDET.

is

and

compact

EDITION.

FRENCH

USTii

HOME.

ALPHONSE

BY

THE

OR, JOY

GRIEF

"

IRONMASTER."

"THE

OF

ROUMESTAN

NUMA

EDITION.

FRENCH

H.OTH

OHNET,

ABRIDGMENT

WITHOUT

TRANSLATED

the

SARAH.

COUNTESS
BY

MOORE,

GEORGE

MODERN

SERGE

AUTHOR

TRANSLATED,

WIFE.

NOVEL.

KEALISTIC

biiiding,price 6s. each.

attractive

VOLUMES.

NEW

REPUTE.

OF

AUTHORS

FOREIGN

AND

ENGLISH

BY

NOVELS.

-VOLUME

ONE

VIZETELLY'S

PUBLICATIONS.

RECENT

CO.'S

"

"c.

DAWN,

CASSILIS,
WOOED:

STUAXGELY

WON,"

"c.

VIZ

In

Large

TELLY

Crown

Svo, beautifullyprinted

gilt edges, price

AN
M.

THE

RECENT

CO.'S

6^

for

way

EDITION

OF

NOVEL,

PRIDE.

AND

SEPARATE

FULL-PAGE

42

CONTAINING

AND

PRINTED

ARTISTS,

bound, with

present,

CELEBRATED

FRENCH

handsomely

OR, LOVE

146th
FRENCH

BY

and

EDITION

OHNET'S

THE

ENGRAVINGS

in every

ILLUSTRATED

IRONMASTER;
FROM

toned paper,

on

7s. 6d., suitable

GEORGES

TRANSLATED

PUBLICATIONS.

TEXT.

THE

FROM

in any
ofM.
the greatest
"Le
Mattre
de Forges"
has proved
literary success
Georges Ohnet
from
It is a story of
it.
of recent
"12,000
language
times, the author
having already realised
the
in
sustained
interest, skilfully told
graceful yet forcible language ; and, unlike
admirably
is born
which
malice
the
moral.
of French
It chastises
general run
a sound
novels, it conveys
to all consideration
blinds
establishes
the folly of that
selfish
its possessor
of envy,
pride which
for the
enforces
and
in convincing
language the oft-repeated lesson,
commoner
clay of humanity,
that

should

woman

An

Edition

trifle with

never

the

of

above

is

"Work
small

In

IN

BY
AUTHOR
"

and

Take

this

it will

"

book

very

very

present

clever

"

in

Illustrations

the

Vignette,cloth gilt,
price 9s.

PARIS

IN

GRENVILLE-

C.
"

SIDE

LIGHTS

UNDER

AND

PROVINCES.

THE

MURRAY,
ENGLISH

ON

"fec.

SOCIETY,"

imposed
stands, with the limitations
upon
is studded
The
volume
enjoyable
day.
Spectator.

by circumstances,

its author
with

shrewd

observations

on

"

"

entertaining series
Review.
Contemporary

and

vivacity."

and

it

as

found

life at the

French

point

be

E.
OF

life.

6d.

FRANCE

SKETCHES

SATIRICAL

AND

for

REPUBLIC:

THE
SOCIAL

is mated

she

without

3s.

price

to whom

man

published

8vo,

LIFE

HIGH

of the

Frontispiece and

Svo, with

Post

Large

affection

the

of social

and

satirical

sketches,

almost

French

in their

"
is Gredon, who
Pistache
is capital, and
Mr. Grenville-Murray's
so
gets adopted and befooled,
The
whole
Duke
of Pontbrize
story of Timoleon
training, by the soi-disant
despite his Yankee
Graphic.
agent's episode, is excellent.""
Tartine, winding up with the commission
.

"

humour

Grenville-Murray's

Mr.
in

which

Frenchmen

sketches
are

In

Large

ENGLISH

AN

BY

ILLUSTRATED

E.

to be

Post

IN

IMPRISONED

C.

WITH

light

are

supposed

and

such

pointed,
adepts.""

and

SPANISH

full

AND

OTHER

that

CONVENT

-MURRAY.

GRENVILLE

of

Qs.

EXPERIENCES.

GIRL'S

PAGE

are

Scotsman.

8vo, cloth gilt,price

ENGRAVINGS.

particular

CO.'S

VIZETELLY

Post

in

Edition,

Fourth

RECENT

ENGLISH

lUfr, facial

"fettc")C"ffrom
BY

WITH

ILLUSTRATED

SOCIETY:
Satirical.

antf

GKENVILLE-MURRAY.

C.

E.

7s. 6d.

bound, price

8vo, handsomely

ON

SIDE-LIGHTS

PUBLICATIONS.

NEARLY

300

ENGRAVINGS.

CHARACTERISTIC

CONTENTS:
FLIRTS

I.

ON

II.

Seaside

The

Flirt

The

London

The

Service"

Foreign

Travels"

her

on

the

in

Flirt

The

and

Home

on

Town
Flirt"

Sentimental

for

Ambassadors

Attache's
of
Secretaries
Legation
Embassy
Interpreters" Ambassadresses.
Messengers"
"

"

WIVES

Candidates

Consent"

SERVICE:"

MAJESTY'S

SEMI-DETACHED

III.
Mutual

Sisters"

Plain

has
Flirt

The

BRITANNIC

HER
"

General"

"Authoresses

Decree

Nisi"

The

Millionnaire

Actresses

and

virtuous

very

Consuls-

"

Separated
by
Ulysses

"

Wife"

Semi-Detached

Penelope.

and

NOBLE

IV.

LORDS:"

Sabbatarian
The
Spiritual Peers
Peers
Peers"
Spendthrift Peers"
and
Stock
Exchange
Literary

"

of

V.

YOUNG-

Good

Estate"
Men's

Great

under

Widows

SILVERED

M.
Boys" Horsey Old Boys" An
Wicked
Agricultural Old Boy" The
Old
Clerical
Boy" A Curiosity" An

"

and

facts.

Of
and

one

his

can

fascinating book

Review.

Old

question

written,
the
The

Old

FogiesSporting
Miserly Peers

and

Mad

"

Gay
Young

Widows"

Young

who

Widows

Widows

Young

Situations-

want

OLD

Boys" The
Old
Boy" The

Old

Shabby

Old

BOYS

:"

Boy

Cricketer"
Old

Recluse

Political
The

Boy"

The

Courtier.

volume

is expensively
Vanity Fair.

brilliancy

and

elaborately
the

steadily throughout
life and

of

English

upon

curious

book

The

Boy"

clever.""

descants

several

dashingly

Old

Peers

Coaching

Lords"

NOBLE

OR
Theatrical

H."

use

brilliantly
"No

The

F.

sparkles very
Grenville-Murray
his incomparable
knowledge

"Mr.

Noble

Peers"
"

Cloud.

YOUTH,

Old

excellent

Boarders"

take

who

This
is a startling book.
bitter, unsparing, and extremely

Peer

Virtuoso

Widows"

Interesting

:"

Widows

Widows"

Young
OTTR

VI.

Rent-rolls"

without

Political

Duke"

Philanthropist

Lords.

WIDOWS

Young

The

Peer"

"

Flirt"

of
Secretaries
Extraordinary
Consuls"
Vice-Consuls"Queen's

Envoys

who

Regimental

Flirt.

Studious

The

Flirt

The

The

Flirt"

Flirt"

House

Country

and

Flirts"

Born

:"

Ecclesiastical

The

Season"

as

to

of the

is destined

their

of

manners,

types,

matter,

sketches,
to make

nor
a

got

present
men

and

up

; the

writing

and

volume,
cities,of

that
only remark
admirably^readable.""

affirm

that

great

noise

'

Side-Lights
in the

puts

to

appearances

shall

and

is

'

world.""

is

they

are

Truth.

aught

but

Whitehall

VIZETELLY

THE

Second

CO.'S

"

RICH

RECENT

from

(reduced

WIDOW

PUBLICATIONS.

bound,

Edition, in large Svo, handsomely

Illustrated

with

54

Old

The
The

Dowager.
Family Solicitor.
College Don.

The

Rich

The

Ornamental

The

Old

The

Earl.

Widow.

"Mr.
the

until

the

All
"
"

Rector.

The

Doctor.

The

Retired

The

Governess.

The

Chaperon.

The

Tutor.

The

Promising

Son.

The

Favourite

Daughter.

The

Squire.

is

pages
of

The

men.

perused."

talent
is

Younger

The

Grandmother.

Son.

Usurer.

The

Newspaper

Spendthrift.

The

Butler.

The

Devotee.

Riche.

Nouveau
Maiden

Editor.

Aunt.

shrewd
and
with
wit, caustic
a
or
of women
appreciation of the softer virtues
to that
of the
the artist (Mr. Barnard) is akin
taken
hardly be laid down
that, once
up, can

cleverness
due

Bachelor.

The

The
Le

with

The

of

book

Spectator.

"

portraits.

accentuated
of the

sparkle
excluding

Colonel.

The
The

combination

of the

strongly
melancholy

are

most

written.

result

last page

the
"

the

"

Curate.

means

BARNARD.

FRED.

The

excellences

sterner

and

author,

Designs ly

The

Grenville-Murray's
times, but by no

at

cynical
and

Director.

Maid.

10s. 6d.

gilt edges, price

MET.

Page Engravings, from

tinted

CONTENTS

The

witli

GRENVILLE-MURRAY.

C.

E.

BY

original engraving).

HAVE

PEOPLE

the

series.

'The

first

From

to

Son'
Promising
last, as might

perhaps
expected,

is
be

the

best, though

the

book

is well

Standard
.

sketches
genuine studies, and are the best things of
are
Grenville-Murray's
Sketches
since
superior in the
they are
by Bo/,' to which
published
James's
artisticallyexecuted
character-portraits are superior to caricatures.""^.

"Mr.
that

have

which

"All

unworthy

been

'

of Mr.
of

Grenville-Murray's

model

who

was

more

portraits
before

the

are

clever

author's

and
eyes

life-like, and
than

Addison

of them

some
"

namely

the

kind

sense

in

Gazette.
are

not

Thackeray."

Truth.

An

Edition

of

PEOPLE
"with

I
Sixteen

HAVE

MET"

Illustrations,

is

published

price

6s.

in

small

8vo,

"

Mr.

and

best

OF

THE

from

REGENCY:

"DUTCH

PICTURES"

made
of Charles
Lamb
Montaigne,
a great deal
and
model, the accomplished
quaint Sir Thomas
'
'
Brown.
These
Dutch
be placed alongside
Pictures
and
Done
With
Pictures
a
Quill' thould
Oliver
Wendell
of
Holmes's
'Boundabout
inimitable
friendly gossip and
lhackeray's
budgets
born
of the
Papers.'
the
They display to perfection
quick eye, good taste, and
icady hand
tiresome.""
essayist" they are never
Daily Telegraph

deeper

Sala's

BUCK

broader"

work
and

has

not

in

it

something

little of
'

Lamb's

of

"

VIZETELLY

io

"

It

like

was

"In

book,

'America

"

Mr.

"

Mr.

round

smouchin'

come

is

Sala

and
gay,
lie thick

at

seen

with
as

in

plums

'

better

best;

very

de

after

liere,looking

his

fresher

of

book

new

whatever

travel
he

by Mr.
touches, and

Sala
of

washin.'

folks'

white

than

even

subject to handle."
pudding
throughout

is

to be

sure

He

welcome.

in

his

Paris

World.

"

work.""

handsome

this

of
happy knack
traversing beaten

the

possesses
when

telling

worth

finding something

Athenaeum.

"

this
be
spent with
pleasant day may
and
illustrations
The
are
pleasant description.
As
for the
style of this entertaining and
The
is full of life,observation,
writer
expected.
His
description of the Chinese
points.
Saturday Review.
"

PUBLICATIONS.

DECENT

Gazette.

Mall

adorning
ground."

Revisited'

evenly genial and

Sala's good stories

more

Pall

to

imperence

your

CO.'S

"

"

admirable.

"

lively book,

'

and

Vanity

will
you
Fair.

it is

exactly

where

Open

book.

to

swiftness

quarter

of

San

seize

what

we

salient

upon

Francisco

find

you

may

be

chat

kindly
should
and

have
teristic
charac-

strongly

mended."
com-

"

"

brilliant

This

work

less
of

Reading
delightful.
reading is effaced by

has

narrated
"

dull

'

even

America
if he

his

possesses
it is like
the

vivaciousness

experiences
Revisited

tried.""

an

'

on

is

Globe.

the

irresistible

listening

to

of the

occasion

bright, lively,

difficult
charm,
the
good talker"
the
style in which
a

of his
and

last

visit

amusing.

usual

doubt

the

none

sense

fcuilletoniste of the

cleverest

to America."
We

indeed, but
slightly wearisome

to define

"

Morning

whether

Mr.

day

Post.
Sala

could

be

VIZETELLY

Seventh

CO.'S

"

Edition,

Crown

in

WITH

350

The

author's

"

He

few
has

The

and

memory,

upon
command

the

and
sympathetic,
as
they are varied
congenial
on
subjects.
Sala, or so light a touch
a
gift of appreciation, with
many-sided
information, a very
he is at his best.""
on
subjects like those in his present work

chapters

are

like

verve

animated

as

Mr.

"

know

outdoes

lively

Herself

much

is
of

one

old

'

furnishes

and

most

the

modern

'"Paris
information

for his

Herself
which

smoking-room.

master.""

The

pen."

"

can

you
There

World.

with

turn
is

Mr.

and

city

so

at

profusely through
point without
any

illustration

do

that
Mr.

has

Sala.

blessed
like

Paris

those

and
"

Saturday

appeared
Endowed
with
that

attractiveness

of the

illustration

amusement."

as

pictures scattered
a
pin
edges with
Sala's
fertility of

and

ever

he

who

not

of Mr.

Sala's

know

Paris

style
these

Review.

for

many
with
a

wondrous
knows

do

so

Few
a day.
Englishmen
humour
facility to extract
of recondite
store
lore, he
well, and that affords such

Truth.
is

Again'

Paris

rival

who

those

and

the

Neivs.

happy

readable

stage,

phase of the world's

every
bimself
he deals
when

opportunity

For

little

prick

can

Daily

"

of instruction
of

to

writers

resources.

fund

book

Few
comment."

Again
his

fertility of

This
so

from

of

clever

are, with
difficult

be

more.

or

one

they

it would

that

contain

volumes

letters

amusing
volume

"'Paris
and

the

out-of-the-way

tenacious

Most

solid

coming
ready

an

French

ARTISTS.

FRENCH

BY

Times.
"

the

of

stores

'

the

have

Qd.t

SALA.

ILLUSTRATIONS

'round-about

3s.

AGAIN.

AUGUSTUS

CHARACTERISTIC

Englishmen

singularly

and

the side

GEORGE

BY

attractively bound, price

with gilt edges, 5s.

HERSELF

PARIS

for

PUBLICATIONS.

8vo, 558 pages,

gilt at

or

RECENT

no

will
most
than
give
novels, and
amusing
infinitely more
anecdotes
for the dinner-table
advantage, and innumerable
of which
Mr.
Sala
that
as
style so chatty and so unwearying

to

you
and
is

VIZETELLY

12

ZOLA'S

CO.'S

""

RECENT

REALISTIC

POWERFUL
with

Uniform

NANA

PUBLICATIONS.

ASSOMMOIR."

"

THE

and

NOVELS.
Croimi

In

8vo, price

6s.

HOT!

PIPING
X "POT-BOUILLE.")

Translation

Unabridged

Tinted

In

from
Page

BY

EMILE

the

63rd

ZOLA.
French

Engravings

by

Sixteen

with

Illustrated

edition.
French

Artists.

8vo, handsomely bound, price 6s.

Crown

NANA:
A

EMILE

BY
FROM

ABRIDGMENT

WITHOUT

THE

Illustrated
with
Twenty-Four
Designs by Bellenger, Clairin,

Edition.

New

NOVEL.

REALISTIC

TRANSLATED

from

Mr.

HENRY

JAMES

ZOLA.
127TH

Tinted
and

EDITION.

FRENCH

Page Engravings,

Andre

Gill.

"NANA."

on

incontestable
attributes
of
system, a passionate conviction, a great plan
in England
the
United
tlie
is not
to be easily found
Zola
M.
or
story-teller's
now
States, where
of timid
(even when
art is almost
exclusively feminine, is mainly in the hands
very accomplished)
who
with
life is severely restricted, and
not
for
whose
are
acquaintance
conspicuous
women,
to
addressed
The
novel, moreover,
ourselves, is almost
always
among
general views.
young
them
to be a large part of the novelist's
unmarried
ladies, or at least always assumes
public.
of course,
M. Zola
"This
restriction, and
a damnable
story-teller, appears,
fact, to a French
conditions.
to
take
sdntux
work
such
unnatural
would
au
produced under
probably decline
any
unmarried
book
how
be
worth
to
Half
of life is a sealed
anything
can
a novel
ladies, and
young
How
be painted (in any
to be recognizable)
that deals
can
a poi trait
only with half of life?
way
in one
It is not
of half a face ?
together that the expression resides, and
eyes
eye, but in the two
human
of features
that
the
combination
constitutes
it is the
identity. These
objections are
be said
that
our
English system is a good thing for virgins and boys,
perfectly valid, and it may
is regarded
the novel
than
bad
and
as
a simple
a
itself,when
something
thing for the novel
more
treats
that
of life at large and
as
a composition
helps us to know."
jeu d' esprit,and considered
"

novelist

with

"

"

In

Crown

(The
REALISTIC

TRANSLATED

WITHOUT

with

Illustrated

"

as

exists

faces

in

"Zola
can

doubt

mirror.
is

one

this.

to

Tinted

novels

of
He

the

price 6s.

most
us

EMILE
THE

ZOLA.
97xn

FRENCH

EDITION.

Page Engravings, by Bellenger, Clairin, Andre"

Leloir, Rose and
Vierge.
it

seems

moral
note

NANA.")

[FROM

as

if in all

the

makes

"

BY

NOVEL.

things described, and

the
representations of human
for the
It is like finding truth

between
a

Zola's
and

reader

the

Prelude

ABRIDGMENT

Sixteen

reading

After

between

NANA,"

"ASSOMMOIR;"

THE
A

"

with

8w, uniform

novelists
the

smell

in

of

others,

there

is

faces

on

in the

even

present
canvas

to

our

and

truest,

minds
the

the

there

were

veil

difference

same

reflection

Gilly

of

the

same

first time.
it is really astonishing how
anyone
perfume
; his nude
figures are those
of
slightest immoral
thought ; there is not one

France,
vice,

not

and

its

do not
anatomical
inspire the
table, which
behind
leave/
it pure,
the
and
unmistakable
crudest, that does not
even
firm,
books, not
without
for the
base
he
treats.
passions of which
Brutally, pitilessly, and
aversion, or scorn,
and
holds
ridicule.
Forced
to
it up
itself
it is vice
by his hand
hypocrisy he strips vice naked
'
His
and
that
Detest
by ! '
are
me
novels, as he himself
really ' morals
pass
says,
says,
in action.' "
the " Assommoir."
on
Signer de Amicis

of

the

his

"

All

the

above

are

published

without

the

Illustrations,

price

5s.

VIZ

THE

ARRIVAL

"

TELLY

OF

THE

CO.'S

ELEVEN

RECENT

YOUNG

MEN

PUBLICATIONS.

AT

NASA's

EVENING

13

PARTY

VIZETELLY

14

In

Grown

CO:S

"

RECENT

8vo, handsomely bound

and

THE

Edition

NECKLACE,

CAREERS

OF

THE

Illustrated

"

OF

OTHER

ivitk

BERLIN

Exact

an

and

Drawing,

OF

COUNTESS

THE

ACTORS

HENRY
UNDER

THIS

IN

LA

HE

WITH

MARIE-ANTOINETTE,

BY
AUTHOR

LIFE

THE

OF

REMARKABLE

TENDED
PRE-

MOTTE,
OF

PARTICULARS

THE

DRAMA.

VIZETELLY.
NEW

THE

"

EMPIRE,"

PARIS

"c.

PERIL/'

IN

Representation of the Diamond

Necklace, from
of the Countess de la Mottc, engraved

Portrait

Completely

OF

STORY

OF

SKETCH

CONFIDANTE

and

of

DIAMOND

COMPRISING

Third

gilt,price 6s., the

Revised

THE

PUBLICATIONS.

contemporary

Steel.

on

of a romance
which
is too
Vizetelly's tale has all the interest
strange not to be true.
of the
summing
evidence, both
exculpates Marienegative and
positive, which
up
from
Antoinette
she
whatever
with
the
scandalous
was
complicity
any
intrigue in which
represented as bearing a part, is admirable."
Saturday Review.
"Mr.

His

"

"We

without

fear

of

describe
Mr.
contradiction,
Diamond
Necklace'
book
of thrilling interest.
He
as
a
with
skill and
faithfulness, but also with tact and delicacy."
can,

Henry
has

the

statement

of

probabilities

facts

"

Notts

and

as

be

to

as

incomprehensible

of

daring

most

as

work

sensational

our

of

fiction, it would

positive insult

is the

novelists

to the

narrative

which

common

the

Large

Crown

8vo, handsomely

ADVENTURES
A

SPANISH

ILLUSTRATED

has

the

denounced

WITH

OF
NOVEL.

well

executed

TRANSLATED

6s.

ENGRAVINGS

of

'

LOWDELL.
FROM

STEEL

ON

famous,

ALFARAQUE

EDWARD

BY

variety of this masterpiece

translation

bound, price

OF

GUZMAN

HIGHLY-FINISHED

wit, vivacity and

very

and

printed

AMUSING

THE

"

sense

author

been

Queries.

In

"The

present plain unvarnished

violating all
so
as
of the reader.
Yet
strange, startlingr,
word
of it is true."
here
evolved, every

put forth
have

of the
Vizetelly's 'Story
his
task
only executed

Standard.

"

Had

"

not

be

cannot

Rogue's

over-estimated."

Progress.'"

"
it is with
The
and
illustrated
as
story is infinitely amusing,
readers."
Scotsman.
eteel, it will be acceptable to a good many

BY

DESIGNS

"

several

STAHL.

Morning

"

Post.

Spectator.
excellent

designs

on

"

In

THE

Post

8vo, price 2s. 6d.

CHILDISHNESS

AND
THE

SOME

PLAIN

By
"Mr.
the

IN

Author

JENNINGS,

of
with

LANGUAGE.

PLAIN

discursive

Essays
of

"

and

The

of writing in good, racy,

trenchant
has
a knack
board
his
on
an
Opera, and
story of a mutiny
and
spirit." Daily Xtios.
surprising freshness

Jennings

scenes

penned

HARGRAVE

OF

TIME:

TRUTHS

Supplemented by sundry

BRUTALITY

the

"

Narratives.
"

Rosicnicians,
style.
Indiaman

His
of

"c

sketch
the

old

of

behind

time,

arc

VIZ

CO.JS

TELLY

Crown

In

THE

RECENT

attractivelyltoundtprieo3.s.Gd.

Sen.

CROSS,

RED

AND

The

"

The

short

deal

good
"

stories

plans of
of pathos

Pleasant

offering
Literary

tales

in

and

the

best

Luigi

"

"

tales

P.

C.

Tii'o

USTRATED

FROM

DESIGNS

JVI. E.

EDWARDS,

The

the

with

old

recommended

to

world
the

and

the

new,

of

lovers

10s. 6cl.

CLARKE,

Author

of "A

R.
French

JOSEPH

FRANCILLOX,

E.

Heiress

in her

own

HATTOX,
"c.

Chateau,"

"::.

AND

R.

BY

F.

CALDE-

DADD,

"c.

not
be disappointed
hopes raised
by
Vizetelly's pleasing volumes.

Messrs.

will

the

There
.

original and
Society' tales."
of

Many

in

that

stories
and

of

are

indeed

contributors,
be

might
interest
these

these

Atk"wum.

"

the

such

unusual

much

merit

greatest

reader

is

clever

is

and

the

of

sure

the

amusement

volumes

supply."

"

Daily Telegraph.
"

to

We
strongly
begin with

laid,' and

was

advise
'How

the

reader

one

to follow

Ghost

it up

with

'Jack's

Wife,' with whom, by the

as
portrayed both by artist
way,
and
fail to fall
author, he cannot
in love.
These
two graceful little
will put him
into
extravaganzas
excellent
that he will
so
a temper
thoroughly enjoy the goodthings
that
follow.""
Life.
"The

large
The

two

volumes

amount
stories

of
are

contain

capital reading.
of

all kinds

unpleasant

cepting
ex-

kinds.""

Scotsman.

In
A

NEW

EDITION,

IN
By
ILLUSTRATED

WITH

Grown

"vo, price,'6s.

COMPRISING

ADDITIONAL

MUCH

GREENWOOD
A

PORTRAIT

OF

MATTER,

COMPANY.

STRANGE

JAMES

is

(the
OF

THE

"Amateur

AUTHOR,

Casual").
ENGRAVED

ON

and

fiction."

SAMBOURNE,

reader
in

which

the

PAGE

LINLEY

with

there

ENGRAVINGS,

COTT,

the

and

WITH

OTHER

"

be

may

Volumes,pott Svo, price

SAVILE

JEFFERIES,

NUMEROUS

'

Athenaeum.

NOVELETTES.
H.

BURNAND,

RICHARD

"

"

admirable,

are

World.

SOCIETY
ILL

pathetic."

incidents

sensational, dealing

style, these

In

By

and

tender

of the

Scotuman.

if somewhat
of

places

is in

Many

excellent.

are

writing."

bright
variety

welcome

the

are

the

STORIES.

OTHER

LTJIGI.

BY
"

PUBLICATIONS.

STEEL.

"

VIZETELLY

In

CO.'S

"

NOTES

WITH

CHEVALIER
JXTROR

WINE

AT

SKETCHES

ORIGINAL

OF FRANCE,

WINES

FRANZ-JOSEF.

OF

VIENNA

THE

AND

with

PARIS

350

PRINTS,

EXHIBITIONS

1873

OF

1878.

AND

Engravings,

PHOTOGRAPHS,

AND
RARE

BOOKS,

ORDER

THE

Illustrated
FROM

Vis.

YIZETELLY,
OF

BRITAIN

GREAT

FOR

SPARKLING

HENBY

BY

gilt edges, price

CHAMPAGNE;

OTHER

THE

ON

with

bound,

OF

HISTORY

and

printed

4to, handsomely

Demy

PUBLICATIONS.

RECENT

ANCIENT

MSS.,

EARLY

PRINTED

ETC.

CARICATURES,

such
like
of history, anecdote,
geographical
agreeable medley
description, and
very
in
not
found
illustrated
often
in the
such
medleys, and
distinguished
by an accuracy
and
fashion.""
abundant
Daily News.
pleasingly miscellaneous

"A

matter,
most

"

excellent.

are

from

the

for

was

exceptional

In

NEW

the

LONDON

of

"Lovers
of

raillery, and

levelled
poems
Chronicle.
Newcastle

humorous

Ages.""

In

SOCIAL,

By
By

E.

C.
DYNE

By
E.

the

functions

London

he

lias

charged,
dis-

News.

LEGEND.

(W.

PARKE),

Noirs."

SKETCHES

in

E.

Styles by

Many

BY

LEITCH.

J.

of
of

this
the

C.

C.

ZOO;
BY

BEST

THE

well-known

WRITERS.

Artists.

READY.

GRENVILLE-MURRAY

NOBLE

GRENVILLE-MURRAY
FENTON.

from

Illustrated

SAINTLY;

Manteaux

HUMOROUS

AND

JEPHSON

By

"

SOCIAL

YOUTH.

FLIRTS.
E.

inferred

enjoyed."

HERMIT

NOW

MOUNTENEY

in
Champagne,'
interesting. Many

large imperial 8vo, price Qd.

Copiously Illustrated

GILDED

and

would
do well to become
things ludicrous
possessed
though
against the absurd
amusing
superstitions

THE
SATIRICAL,

is to be

he

ILLUSTRATIONS

HUMOROUS

laughter,

of

'History
curious

very

GOLDEN

of "Les

Author

WITH

the

on

THE

THE

By

R.

other
wines
of
sparkling
widely read and appreciated."

be

8vo, cloth gilt,price 3s. Qd.

OF
OK,

task

his

opportunities

square

LAYS

OUR

It should

""Athenfeum.

author

the

competent
and

Middle

and

Champagne

written
a
Vizetelly has
quarto volume
of facts, many
of them
a large number

woodcuts
How

volvime

about

amusement.

collected

has

he

the

of

and

Review.

Henry

"Mr.
which

book

information

is full of curious

Saturday

"

Vi/etelly's handsome

Henry

"Mr.
France

LORDS.

GRENVILLE-MURRAY
MILITARY

NICE

By

GIRLS.

By

E. C. GRENVILLE-MURRAY

OUR

MEN

SILVERED
AS

YOUTH.
THEY

WERE.

VIZETELLY

CO.'S

6-

in

Publishing
UNIFORM

RECENT

SENSATIONAL

AGE

OLD

Small

Svo, ornamental

Post

FICTION

"

They

that

books

are

read

The

them.

LIPS-THE

OF

THE

Is. each

covers,

OF

AN

be

may

in cloth, Is. Qd.

EXAMPLES

OF

create

NOVELS.
FRENCH

RECENT
CHARACTER.

where
the ladies
left lying about
is happily
not
of the vicious sort

safely

EYE.

FRENCH

UNOBJECTIONABLE

they

interest

BEST

GOLDEN

DETECTIVE'S

POPULAR

TRANSLATIONS

Twovoh.

BY

COACH.-THE

VIZETELLY'S

and

DETECTIVE.

-SEALED

STROKE

TRESS.-SATAN'S

In

THE

FOLLOWED

BE

TO

THUMB

B01SGOBEY.

READY,

LECOQ,

OF

NOVELS

DU

FORTUNE
NOW

tip

NOVELS.

SENSATIONAL
OF

THE

Is. each.

Volumes,

Monthly

GABORIAU'S

WITH

THE

THE

PUBLICATIONS.

of the family
at

SHEFFIELD

FROMONT

THE

YOUNGER

"

RISLER

can

pick them

all."

INDEPENDENT.

THE

ELDER.

By

DATJDET.

A.

"

"

be

The

series

starts

well

Daudet's
Athenceum.
Alphonse
masterpiece."
in
fashion
fully
wonderparts, and
a sledge-hammer
some
tender, touching, and
pathetic in others, the extraordinary
popularity whereof
may
inferred
from
the
fact that
this English version
translated
to be
from
is said
the
A

terrible

with

M.

"

after

story, powerful

'

fiftieth

French

SAMUEL
"M.

Cherbuliez's
of

Those

novels

character, well

style in which
"

"

Illustrated

AND

BROHL

studies

"

edition.'

they

are

London

News.

PARTNER.

V.

By

CHERBULIEZ.

read
and
offend
are
by everybody
nobody.
constructed, peopled with interesting men
is admirable."

written

The

"

They
and

are

excellent
and

women,

the

Times.
,

read this singular story in the

not be reminded
of that
original need
who
lived two
lives at once,
within
himself.
study of the man
even
The
reader's
is one
of the
nature
most
of surprises,
discovery of his double
cleverly managed
and
Samuel
Brohl's
final dissolution
of partnership
is a remarkable
with
himself
stroke
of almost
The Graphic.
pathetic comedy."
who

have

dramatic

supremely

"

THE

DRAMA
"

which

OF

highly

THE

RUE

DE

LA

MAUGARS
One

of the

A.

BELOT.

"

JUNIOR.
"

By

Drama
The
of the
in
Rue
de la Paix,' in
ingenious plot is developed
is told
with
force
and
interesting and
thrilling narrative
great
Illustrated
London
Neias.
sprightliness and tenderness."

decidedly
by
passion, relieved
a

PAIX.

'

most

charming

By

A.

THEURIET.

novelettes

we

have

read

for

long time.""

Literary

World.

VIZETELLY

6-

WAYWARD

epigramtuatic
Telegraph.

New

end."

very

volume
'

and

with

novels
'

Carmen

of which

Beaconsfield

has

SAVING

and

written.""

ever

interest

eccentric

Hampshire

DAUGHTER'S

of which

is

kept

tha

up

Colomba'

quite cheering after

circulating libraries are crammed.""

our

made

imagination,

is

is

the

stereotyped
Halifax Times.

by the lovers of the sprightly ani tuneful

opera
It is a bright and
vivacious
popular.
story."

so

"

DIARY,

in

unequalled

iti

MERIMEE.

ByP.
'

of

be welcomed

Hauk

story,- the

absorbing

an

raciness

which

will

Minnie

WOMAN'S
O.

DIPLOMATIST.

Mail.

CARMEN.

freshness

The

is

flight of brilliant
Graphic.

Ihe

"

COLOMBA,

'

Life

Evening

as

"

1 '

of

Lease

"
The
story,
peculiar way."

"

19

AI-.OUT.

Dublin

"

Lord

LIFE, "

OF

E.

By
'

PUBLICATIONS.

GENEROUS

THE

anything

as

LEASE

NEW
DOWRY.
"

RECENT.

GUEVILLK.

"As

"

DOSIA,

HENRY

By

CO.'S

THE

LITTLE

the

three-

heroine

Life.

"

COUNTESS.

By

FEUILLET.
"

Is

out

wrought

sensational

with

kind,

skill

masterly
said

be

cannot

and

be

to

affords

hurtful

reading which, although

mentally or morally."

either

of

slightly

Dumbarton

"

Herald.

BLUE-EYED

HOLDENIS,

META
V.

By
'"Blue-eyed

Meta

'"A

of

Stroke

"

STROKE

OF

MACY.
DIPLO-

CHERBULIEZ.
Holdenis'

is

Diplomacy

'is

delightful tale.""

vivacious

bright

Civil

Service

Gazette.

story pleasantly

told."

Hampshire

"

Advertiser.

OF

GODSON

THE

"

rustic

The

"

story

flags.

never

Sand

of

cases

the

E.
"

the

to

country
close

the

of

Argonne,

interest

are

of

the

AND

MARIANNE.

By

'

the

Tower

of Percemont

'

is not

unworthy

of it."

"

REVENGE.

Lover's

Revenge'

is one

of M.

By

V.

CHERBULIEZ.

Cherbuliez's

Newt.

AND

NOSE,

OTHER

AMUSING

STORIES.

ABOUT.
Crisp and

bright, full of movement

CLAUDE

DOCTOR
By

and

great name,

LOVER'S

NOTARY'S
By

beginning

exquisitely written
many
of human
nature
under
studies
various
The
influences, especially in the
heroine
and
her low-born
effective."" Illuslover, are wonderfully
trated
unhappy

London

THE

the

THBURIET.
forest

News.

Low-born

'The

productions.

"

have

We

THREE
VENGEANCE.
"The

romance

;
Two

MALOT.

H.

English

THE

has

London

LOW-BORN
"

scenery
From

master.

A.

life in the

PERCEMONT

OF

George

Illustrated

THE

By
and

SAND.

GEORGE
"

rural

Life.

"

TOWER

THE

the

personages,
of
the hand

painted with

MARQUIS.

to

writers.""

Brighton Herald.

RENDERED

DESPERATE.

vols.

these

RED
By

one

interest.""

OR, LOVE

appeal to
as

and

very
books."

first

our

"

flight of novelists

Dublin

KNIGHTS;
P.

Eotniny

to find

anything

so

artistic in

Mail.

OR,

THE

BROTHERS'

FUvAL.

thing that strikes

Independent.
Slitffield

us

in these

stories is ,he marvellous

dramatic

skill of the