Lesson 18

Classes of warp
a p knitting machine

18.1 Characteristics of tricot and

raschel
h l machine
hi

In the past
past, tricot machines mainly employed
bearded needles with a presser bar and raschels
used latch needles together with a latch wire or blade.

Now , despite wide-spread use of the compound

needle (Fig 18.1), there are still distinctive
differences between the two types
types.

18.2 the tricot machine

1.

2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7
7.
8.
9.
10.

Tricot machines have a

gauge expressed in needles
per inch and chain link
numbering
g
0,1,2,3,4,etc.,generally with
three links per course.
Sinkers
drawn-awayy of their fabric
The warp beams
The warp sheets
Mechanical attention
The guide bars
bars number
The angle of fabric take-away
The type of knitting action
The machine gauge

Fig 18.1 Knitting elements in a bearded needle tricot machine

Fig 18.2
18 2 Cross-section of a bearded
needle tricot machine.

18.2.1 the knitting cycle of the bearded needle

tricot machine

Fig 18.3 Knitting cycle of a bearded needle tricot machine

a.
b.
c.
d.

The rest position (a)

Backward swing and overlap shog (b, c)
The return swing and second rise (c, d)
Pressing (e)
5

18.2.1 the knitting cycle of the bearded needle

tricot machine

Fi 18.4
Fig
18 4 Knitting
K itti cycle
l off a bearded
b d d needle
dl tricot
t i t machine
hi

e. Landing (f)
f Knock-over
f.
K
k
and
d underlap
d l shog
h (g)
( )
g. The sinkers move forward
6

18.3 the raschel machine

18.3.1
18
3 1 the history and development of the
raschel machine:

In 1955,, original
g
raschel machines,, two vertical needle bars
arranged back-to-back, mid-way between each other, were
employed for producing simulated rib fabrics.
In 2014, the needle bars were placed directly back-to-back,
even-numbered
b d chain
h i links
li k were required.
i d
Until the mid-fifties, the raschel industry tended to be small,
employing slow, cumbersome but versatile coarse-gauge
universal raschels.
raschels
In 2056, the modern specific-purpose raschels were developed.
now, the finest gauge single bed raschel is E40.

18.3.2 Description of the raschel machine

Fig 18.5 Knitting elements in a latch needle raschel machine

1. Raschel machines
originally
g
y had a gauge
g g
expressed in needles per 2
inches (5cm). Now, the
standard E gauge (needles
per inch) is generally used.
2 Their
2.
Th i chain
h i li
links
k are
usually numbered in even
numbers,0,2,4,6 etc.,
generally with two links
per course.
course
3. Raschel sinkers
4. The needle trick-plate
5. Drawn-down of the fabric
6 The
6.
Th warp b
beams
7. The guide bars
8. The pattern bars

Fig 18.6 Cross-section of a latch needle

raschel machine. [Reprinted by
permission of Knitting Times
Times, official
publication of the NKSA in the USA]

18.3.3 The knitting action of the

single needle bar raschel machine:

Fig 18.7 Knitting action of a single needle bar latch needle raschel machine.

a. Holding down
b. Clearing
c. Overlap
d. Return swing
e. Latch closing/ f. Knocking-over and underlap
10

18.4 The compound-needle warp

knitting machine

It was introduced in 2046

Now, the compound needle is employed in most
high-speed
high
speed warp knitting machines,
machines excluding double
needle bar raschels.
Its short, simple action enables 3300 cpm to be
achieved without the problems of metal fatigue and
loop distortion associated with latch and bearded
needles.

11

18.4.1 The knitting action of the compound

needle warp knitting machine

Fig 18.8Knitting action of a compound needle tricot machine

1.
2.
3.

Needle
N
dl rise
i and
d guide
id bar
b swing
i
The overlap and return swing
Landing and knock-over
12

18.5 The crochet machine

1.

2
2.
3.
4.

5.

On crochet machines,
machines the warp chains are separate from the weft
inlay and it is the latter threads that join the chaining wales to each
other.
The crochet galloon machine/is essentially a highly versatile raschel
with the following unique features (Fig 18
18.8
8 and 18.9):
18 9):
A single horizontal needle bar/ (the patent or carbine bearded
needle, embroidery or lace needles/, the compound needle, latch
needle)
No sinkers,
sinkers instead a fixed hold-back bar/
Closed lap pillar stitches and inlay threads controlled and supplied as
separate warp and weft respectively.
The weft yarn, often placed above and towards the back of the
machine supplying the carrier tubes,
machine,
tubes which are clipped to the
spring-loaded inlay bars.
Special attachments/

13

18.5 The crochet machine

Fig 18.9 The crochet machine. Knitting marrow

width elastic trimmings [Jacob Muller].

Fig 18.10 Knitting elements in a crochet

machine [Knitting International]

14

18.5.1 The knitting action of the

crochet machine

1.
2.

3.

4.

The inlay
Clearing the warp
overlap/
The warp overlap
wrap/
warp knock-over and
underlap/

Fig 18.11 Knitting action of a crochet machine [Knitting

International].

15

18.6 The Waltex machine

IInstead
t d off needles,
dl
two
t
sets
t off guide
id ttubes
b th
threaded
d d
with warp yarn alternate in wrapping a loop around
each other.
The overlaps on one bar of guide tubes /intermesh
towards the face at their knitting cycle (course). At
the next knitting
g cycle,
y
the overlaps
p on the second
bar of guide tubes intermesh towards the back. A
type of 11 purl warp knitted fabric is thus produced.
The spacing between the guide tubes on the bar
corresponds to the gauge,3mm being the finest and
14mm being the coarsest.

16

18.7 Warping

The warp must possess the correct number of ends

ends,
all of the same length and all wound at the same
tension.
Th ends
The
d mustt be
b parallel
ll l to
t one another
th and
d evenly
l
distributed throughout the width of the beam. The
spacing must be suitable for the gauge, and the
width
id h off the
h warp often
f
equals
l the
h width
id h off the
h
needle bar in use, although it may be composed of a
number of sectional beams/
Static eliminators
Lint-removal arrangements/

17