Bike Generator Construction Plans (5/10/2014)

Aaron Debbink
Matt Randal

Safety/Tools
When building the bike stand, we had access to a table saw, mitre saw, drill, as well as a
toolbox full of hand tools. If you dont have experience using these tools, find someone
who does and have them help you. A good rule of thumb, if there is ever a particular
machine or type of cut that you dont feel completely comfortable doing, dont do it.

Steps for Construction

Wood needed for entire construction: one 4x8 sheet of plywood, one 8 2x4,
one 8 2x6, and one 8 2x8.
1. Order the motor, pulley, and press fit bushing (see appendix for ordering and price
info). Take the sprocket off of the motor shaft. This is really difficult to do. When
disassembling the motor try not to take the entire motor apart. Once the sprocket is
taken off of the motor shaft, hammer the press fit bushing onto the shaft and attach the
pulley using the set screws. You may have to hammer the pulley on as well. If this
step intimidates you, just buy a scooter motor without the sprocket or with a
removable sprocket / pulley.
2. Buy materials for the bike stand and order all of the parts for the electronics board.
3. Build the stand.
4. Put together the electronics board.
5. Enjoy your energy independence.

Bike Stand Construction

Materials List:
Material
plywood
plywood
plywood
2x4 pine board
2x4 pine board
2x8 pine board
2x6 pine board
Construction Screws
Construction Screws
Hex Head Carriage Bolt (fully
threaded)
Nuts
Large Washers
Bolt Couplers
metal conduit coupler
3/8 Hex Head Carriage Bolts (not
fully threaded)
3/8 Wing Nuts
3/8 Washers
Hose Clamp
2x4 pine board
2x8 pine board

Size / Length
18x32
12x16
6x13
8
10 and 1/8
15
20
1
2

Quantity
1
2
1
2
1
4
2
1 box
1 box

Part Letter
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I

4
4
2
2

K
L
M
N

to 1
16
Cut to size (approx.
15)

4
8
2
2

P
Q
R
S

Construction Details:
1. Construct the side support structures using parts B, D, F, H and I.
a. Attach both 15 2x8 boards (F) to the back of the 12x16 3/4 plywood
board (B). Attach with the 1 screws (H). See figures 1 and 2. Optional:
You can cut the 2x8s at an angle like in the diagram if you want to reduce the
overall weight of the bike stand.
b. Slide the 8 2x4 (D) in-between the 2x8s (F) and attach using the 1 3/4
screws. See figure 1.
c. Drill a hole using a bit for the hardware that will attach the bike wheel to
the stand. See figure one for the hole center location. Optional: You can move
the location of the hole 2 toward the front of the stand, away from the motor.
This will give your feet more room while pedaling. Some students end up
hitting their heals on the stand with the current design. See figure 2 for
general cutting pattern.

Figure 1
12
1

6
or
8

B
F

F
D

18

Figure 2
Remove
to reduce
weight

Remove
to reduce
weight

B
15

14.5
16

F
A
13

9.5
32

9.5

2. Attach the side support structures to the base board (A). See figures 1 and 2 for the
correct location and spacing.
a. The most important parts of the mounting is the 13 spacing between the
side supports and the holes for the hardware to attach the bike to the
stand must be aligned.
b. Once the support structures are in the correct location, and the drilled holes
are aligned, attach the side supports to the base (A) using the 1 screws
through the top of the 2x4s (D). See figure 1. This will secure the locations
of the supports so that you can turn the stand upside-down and use more
screws to securely attach the base.
3. Assemble and attach the hardware to that will secure the back wheel of the bike to the
stand.
a. Locate parts J, K, L, M, N and R. See figure 3. Note: Item N and R on the left
hand side of the picture were flipped horizontally accidently in the picture..

L
J

R
M
N

Figure 3

N
K

b. Attach the hardware to the side supports. The bolt coupler (M) screws onto
the end of the 5 long bolt. The conduit coupler (N) then slides over
the coupler and the small set screw must be tightened to attach the two.
Remove the 2nd set screw on the end so that you can tighten the hose clamp
(R) on the end. See figure 4. These hose clamps are required. Without the
hose clamps, the conduit couples (N) will break after repeated use of the
bike generator.
Figure 4

G
E

9.5

B
F

B
4

4. Construct the motor mount stand. This provides a place to mount the motor /
generator to the stand. This step requires parts C, E, G, H, I, O, P and Q.
a. Attach the 10 1/8 2x4 board (E) to both 20 2x6s (G). Use the 2 screws
(I). The 10 1/8 2x4 (E) should be 9 from the front end of the 2x6s (G)
and the back of (E) should be flush with the base board (A). See figure 4.
Optional: the back ends of the 2x6s can be cut off at an angle, again to reduce
the overall weight. See figure 5.
Figure 5

G
C

E
G

b. Use the bolts (O), washers (Q) and wing nuts (P) to attach the motor mount to
the rest of the stand. It is not critical where the bolts are placed. See figures
1, 4 and 5 for the mounting position of the 2x6s and the bolts.
c. Remove the back wheel of your bike to put the rubber belt around the empty
wheel well. The tire and inner tube must first be removed from the rear
wheel. Connect the bike to the stand.
d. Using 1 wood screw mount the motor using the motor bracket to the top of
board (C) so that the pulley on the motor is sitting in the middle of the board.
The motor should be mounted as close to the front of the board as possible.
Note: these directions are different than what is shown in figure 5 and you
may have to carve out some of the front of board C for the belt to run freely.
e. Now mount the 6x13 plywood board (C) with the attached motor using
the 1 screws (I). Place the rubber belt on the pulley during mounting so
that you can ensure there will be enough friction between the belt and pulley.
Slide the plywood boards back and forth until an ideal amount of friction is
found, and screw it down. Figures 5 and 12 show a modification to the
described design using a hinge and spring to provide tension on the belt.
This modification allows you to take the belt on and off of the pulley without
unscrewing the motor mount from the plywood.

5. Build the front tire mount. The

Figure 6
bike generator can be used without
this piece, but it allows the bike to
be level and provides needed extra
T
support. Students are not always
the most gentle when riding or
getting on and off the bike. If
constructed properly the weight
T
of the bike should be on both the
bottom 2x4 supports (S) and the
top of the 2x8s (T).
S
a. In order to cut the 2x8s (T)
to the proper height, use
uncut 2x8 to separate the
16 2x4 boards (S). Now
S
place the front tire of the
bike on top of the spaced
2x4s and measure the exact height of the bikes front forks to the floor. This
measured height will be the length you need to cut the 2x8 boards (T).
b. Using the 2 construction screws attach the 2x4s (S) to the freshly cut 2x8s
(T), making sure that the front forks of the bike will be able to rest on the top
of the 2x8s (T). See figure 6. The horizontal spacing between the 2x8s (T)
will may be different for different style bikes.

Electronics Board
See the appendix at the back for prices and links for the materials
Material
Size / Length
Quantity
Part Letter
A
plywood
24x24
1
B
Audio Capacitor
> 5 Farads
1 (optional)
C
Power Inverter
> 400W continuous
1
D
Kill-a-Watt Meter
1 (optional)
E
Extension Cord
1
1 (optional)
F
Power Strip
1 (optional)
G
12V cigarette lighter adapter
1 (optional)
H
Multimeter
1 (optional)
I
bolts
1
1 bag
J
nuts
1 bag
ring terminal connectors
K
1 bag
(crimp on)
10 or 12 gauge black and red
L
20 of each
1 length each
stranded wire
M
Diode
1 (optional)
N
Deep Cycle Marine Battery
80 120 Amphr
1 (optional)
Figure 7

B
G

C
H
E

Electronics Board Construction Notes: (The battery, generator, capacitor and inverter
are all connected in parallel.)

If you just want to be able to power typical house hold appliances requiring 120V AC,
you at least need an audio capacitor (B) and a power inverter (C).
o The power inverter converts the DC voltage from the generator to 120V AC
voltage used by common house hold electronic devices. This is the output
from your wall sockets at home.
o The audio capacitor serves to smooth out the output voltage coming from the
generator. Your DC output directly from the generator is not very constant due
to your inability to keep maintain a constant rotational velocity. This also
helps with startup demand for appliances.

bolts, nuts, and terminal ring connectors work well for attaching the wire to the
capacitor, the power inverter, and for making connections between wires on the
board. Red and black wires are used to color-code the high and low potentials on the
electronics board. Some hardware stores sell the wire by the foot, like Lowes. Other
stores only sell spools of wire. Paying for it by the foot will end up being less
expensive.

If your audio capacitor does not come with a built-in volt meter you can connect a
multi-meter (H) in parallel with the generator output and the capacitor so that you can
measure the voltage. It is important for the rider to be able to have a real time
readout of capacitor voltage since the power inverter (C) will only work between
approximately 11V and 15V. If the voltage is getting to low the rider will have to
pedal harder / faster and vice-versa. Note: the figure 1 shows a 3rd wire used with the
multi-meter so that it is also in series with the battery so that the current going into
or out of the battery can be measured.
Figure 8
A Kill-a-Watt meter (D) can be
purchased to measure the power
consumption of devices plugged into
the power inverter (C). This is very
E
useful if students want to directly
measure the power consumption of any
house hold appliance or device. This
must be hooked in series with the
A
inverter (C) and the power strip (F).
The one foot extension cord (E) is used
to connect the meter to the power
inverter. The cord plugs into the
inverter (C), runs out a hole to the back
of the board, and then plugs into the

back of the meter (D) through another hole in the mounting board (A). See figures 7
and 8.

The electronics board can be mounted on a cheap equipment dolly like shown in
figure 8 or it can simply be propped up against a nearby wall. If you decide to mount
it like shown in figure 8 you will need to place the battery or a heavy object on the
bottom so that it will not accidently tip over.

Another nice touch if you are

mounting the electronics board on the
dolly is to make a shelf for
accessories. See figure 8. The shelf
and the supports can be made out of
the same plywood as the
mounting board (A). A 10 inch deep
shelf is enough space for a small or
medium TV and a video game
system. It is also a great place for a
light box. See figure 9. A light box
Figure 9
allows students to literally feel the
difference between powering an
incandescent light bulb and one or several equivalent compact fluorescent. The bulb
bases, switches and wire can all be purchased from a local hardware store.

You can power 12V electronic devices directly from the generator / capacitor if you
attach a cigarette lighter base (G) in parallel with the generator and capacitor. See
figure 7. The diagram shows a switch wired in series with the cigarette lighter
adapter to prevent a small LED light in the adapter from draining the battery if it is
connected. This is not essential.

Extras

Evenly distribute and attach extra 1kg masses to the spokes of the rear wheel using
hose clamps. This will give the spinning wheel some added inertia and will help your
rotational speed during operation be closer to constant. The circumferences of the
masses determine the size of hose clamps necessary. The used masses for this design
required clamps that varied between 1-1 and 2 2 . See figures 10 and 11.

Figure 11

Figure 10

If you will be using a battery to store and use energy you will need to put a diode
(M) in series with the motor / generator and battery. See figure 12. Failure to do
so will allow the battery to directly power the motor / generator and it will cause the
pedals to spin backwards!
Figure 12

Appendix
Motor. From a scooter, 24V. If you search for "scooter motor" on google, you'll find a
bunch of sites. I can't find the exact one I used, but this is the
same motor: www.scootercatalog.com/electircmotor-e7.html ) $30-50 plus shipping
Pulley. (from www.electricmotorsite.com ) 1-groove, A Belt, 0.5 Bore with a 3" outer
diameter. $10 plus shipping
Belt (from www.Grainger.com). (V-Belt, Type A. 74 long). $20 plus shipping.
Sleeve Bearing (also called a "press fit bushing"). This is to attach the pulley to the shaft
of the motor. ( www.mcmaster.com ) If you buy the motor recommended above you will
want to order a steel press fit drill bushing, inner diameter 5/16 and outer diameter
and 1 long. 3-5$ plus shipping
Capacitor. (6F, 24V, "Kole Audio C6D Capacitor). www.sonicelectronix.com . $80
plus shipping
Safety Note, this is a HUGE capacitor. When you get it hooked up, it is the most
dangerous part of the machine, it can store a whole lot of charge. This capacitor
has a voltage display on it, which is a really nice feature to have on the electronics
board.
Inverter. We recommend the Cobra CPI 875, 800W DC to AC inverter. It has a nice
feature where it beeps when the input voltage gets close to being too low, or too high.
www.amazon.com . $40 plus shipping.
Power Strip. Scrounge around or buy one at your local hardware store.
Digital multi-meter (optional). Can be found at your local hardware store. $10 to $20.
Kill-A-Watt Meter (optional). Can be found at your local hardware store. $40.
Short extension cord. 1 or less. Can be found at your local hardware store. $5-$10.
You need this if you choose to use the Kill-A-Watt Meter.
Deep Cycle Marine Battery (optional). Can be found at your local auto parts store.
$100-$120.
Diode (optional). You will need this if you decide to store energy in a battery. Without
this diode the battery will directly power the electric motor and spin the pedals
backwards! Radio Shack sells packs of these diodes for about $5.
Plenty of 1/4" bolts, nuts, and washers for terminals on the electronics board. 1/4 ring
terminal connectors (crimp on type). Enough wire to (I used 12 gauge) to run from the

motor (mounted behind the rear wheel) to the electronics board in front, then a few extra
feet to wire things together on your board. You should be safe if you get about 40 feet
total (20' of red, 20' black). A few twist connectors.