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How To Make The Mini Metal Foundry

by The King of Random

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The King of Random

www.thekingofrandom.com

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Bio: Random Weekend Projects

How to make a simple backyard foundry for less than $20, for melting pop
cans, and casting aluminum.

More by The King of Random

Tags: foundry metal melting

pop can foundry soda can foundry
backyard foundry backyard science

metal working diy science experiment

science demonstration

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WARNING: Charcoal foundries can reach temperatures in excess of 1,000C,

which is well above the melting point of hobbyists. This project should only be
attempted with adequate knowledge and training, proper protective safety gear,
and in a fire resistant area with adequate ventilation. The sparks flying from the
foundry can ignite fires, and the fumes from burning dross can be toxic. Use
caution and common sense. Use of this video content is at your own risk.

Step 2: The Mini Metal Foundry

In this project youll see how to use equal parts of sand and plaster, to make a
simple backyard foundry, thats powerful enough to melt scrap metal in
seconds, but still pleasant enough keep around for decoration.

Step 3: Things You'll Need

Start this project with a big bag of play sand, and some plaster of paris. Both
of which you can find at your local hardware store, for under $20.
Youll also need a 10 quart steel bucket, and a tablecloth to cover anything
important, because chances are this is going to get a bit messy.
A 2.5 quart bucket can be used for measuring the ingredients, but it also
serves a more important purpose that youll see in just a second.
The recipe for this makeshift refractory lining, is 1-3/4 buckets full (21 cups) of
plaster of paris, 1-3/4 buckets full (21 cups) of sand. And 1-1/4 buckets, filled
(15 cups) with water.

Step 4: Refractory Mix

The moment the water touches the dry mix, the clock starts ticking. Youve only
got about 15 minutes before it all hardens up. So get busy mixing everything
together.
Its really important to get all the dry powder wet, and work out any lumps as
quickly as possible.
After mixing for a couple of minutes, it should be fairly runny, and roughly all
the same color. When youre convinced there arent any clumps of powder left
in the bucket, the refractory mix is ready for pouring.
Carefully transfer it to the steel bucket as slowly as practical, to minimize the
splattering. There should be just enough fluid to fill the bucket about 3 from
the top. Now bring back the plastic measuring bucket, and use it to form the
center of the foundry.
Fill the bucket with water, to give it a bit of weight, but anything like sand or
rocks will work as well. As you push the bucket into the center, the mixture
rises upward, but it wont spill out.

Before the mix is starts to firm up, try working the bucket up and down a few
times, to help level it before it sets. Now hold still for 2 to 3 minutes. This will
give the plaster just enough time to harden, so the bucket stays in place, even
when you let go.
Time for a little cleanup.

Step 5: Clean Up

Everything will still need about an hour to really harden up, but the plasters still
soft enough that you can clean and shape it to look really good. And while
youre here we may as well wipe the bucket down as well.
Dampen a rag and gently drag it around the top, the surface cleans up pretty
nicely, and gets a cool texture in the process. When it looks the way you want
it too, simply leave it for about an hour.
While youre waiting, turn an old steel fire extinguisher, into a custom crucible.

Step 6: Making the Crucible

You can tell its made from steel because a magnet sticks to it. And magnets
wont do that to aluminum.
Depressurize the tank and unscrew the valve from the top, to make it safe and
easy to cut in half with a hacksaw. Which should happen in less than a minute.
The bottom part of the extinguisher is what you want for the crucible, because
its basically a steel cup 3 in diameter, and 5 tall. Thats going to be perfect
for your custom backyard foundry.

Step 7: Making It Professional

At this point, the plaster should be pretty well set, so dump the water from the
bucket, then use something like a pair of channel locks, to grip one edge of the
pail, and pull gently toward the center.
Grip it with both hands and give it a bit of a twist, you can see the whole
bucket pops loose, and pulls right out. This just created an amazingly smooth
surface, which gives this makeshift foundry, a surprisingly professional look.
The only features you are missing now, are an air supply port, and a lid, so
make those next.

Step 8: Lid & Supply Port

Show All 7 Items

A 1-3/8 (35mm) hole saw is the perfect size for accommodating this 1 steel
tubing, and if you center the metal cutting blade with the top line on the bucket,
you can carefully begin cutting through the metal wall.
Once through the metal, its easy to burrow down at about a 30 angle because
the plaster hasnt fully cured, and cuts away like butter.
Now you have a tight, downward sloping hole, that the blower tube fits perfectly
into, and its strategically placed, a few inches up from the bottom. This way, if
a crucible fails, and dumps molten metal into the foundry, it will stay in the
foundry, instead of dangerously flowing out of the pipe.
The blower tube is really easy to make. Start with a 1 steel pipe. This is the
business end that will sit next to the hot coals in the foundry. Youre also
going to need a 1" PVC coupling (Slip x FIPT), as well as some 1 PVC pipe.
You can see the threads on one half the coupling screw onto the steel pipe,
and the slip adaptor on the other end, simply pushes onto the PVC tube. Its
that easy.
Now go one step further and make a lid to help retain the heat.
Get a couple of 4 U-bolts from the hardware store and stand them upright in a
5 quart, bigmouth bucket, filled with a half-measure of our insulating mix. (10

cups plaster, 10 cups sand ,7 cups water).

After an hour, the plaster should have set, and the whole thing pops free from
the bucket, giving you a nice little custom lid for the foundry.
It still needs a vent hole for relieving pressure buildup, and you could just form
one when youre casting it, or you could try drilling one with a 3 hole cutting
saw like this.
With the hole in the center, you can see you end up with a nice thick lid, that
kind of looks like a giant white donut. This design works great for venting
pressure, and gives you the option to melt metal as well, without even having
to take the lid off the furnace.

Step 9: Finishing Touches and First Firing

Pick up a can of Burnished Amber spray paint, and give the foundry a couple
of coatings to make it look a little more attractive.
When you get it fired up, the mini foundry gets so hot on the inside, that it will

melt soda cans within seconds and fill a crucible with liquid aluminum. Look for
how to do that, in another project video.
With this homemade furnace, you have the power to liquify aluminum in the
backyard, and cast just about any object you can think of.
The best part is, when youre not melting scrap metals, rather than taking up
space and looking terrible, you can drop in a plant, and instantly transform it,
into fashionable home decor.

Step 10: How To Melt Soda Cans

Show All 5 Items

With this transforming Flowerpot Foundry, theres certainly more than meets
the eye. And by the way, if you run out of soda cans to melt, you could try
using it as a blacksmithing forge, or even a bbq, for summertime grilling. After
all, it is fueled by charcoal briquettes.
Well now you know, how to use commonly available materials, to build the mini
metal foundry. Powerful enough to melt metal in seconds, but still pleasant
enough keep around for decoration.
Well thats it for now. If you liked this project, perhaps youll like some of my
others. Check them out at www.thekingofrandom.com.

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

dorchard

I Made it!

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2 minutes ago

Reply

This is too awesome. I did a lot of metal casting in high school and
have recently found I really miss it. This seems like a great way to get
started again without spending an arm and a leg. Thanks!

stephenmack

39 minutes ago

Where could I get an empty fire extinguisher that size? Also, what
surface is recommended for pouring the aluminum on?

Reply

Ralphxyz

1 hour ago

Reply

3 hours ago

Reply

What is the air source?

void_main

I hate to ruin everyone's enjoyment (by the way love the instructable)
but before trying check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A796N_YZTm8

deadsy void_main

2 hours ago

Reply

Commentary1) Use tongs that are long enough to get your hands away from
the heat. Gloves aren't enough. Heat will penetrate thick
welding gloves in time.
2) Don't pour over a flammable or wet surface. When the Al
spills (and it will spill) it will set on fire whatever it touches.
3) Make sure your molds are completely dry before you pour
into them. The pop was probably caused by a little steam
explosion. This sends molten metal flying around and that is
very disconcerting.
4) Wear gloves, long pants, boots, a face shield, etc. Cover
your body so that you won't get molten metal on your skin or in
your eyes.
And also:
5) Don't pour over concrete or brick. Even concrete that is
apparently dry has moisture in it. When the metal spills on it
little flakes can explode off leading to the molten metal flying
around problem.

starforest

2 days ago

Reply

This is a great idea! But what in the world to do with melted aluminum?
Also wouldn't concert or clay be better and more stable the plaster?

deadsy starforest

2 hours ago

I melt Al and use it to cast parts for small engines that I make.
Concrete and Plaster of Paris don't make very good
refractories because they don't last very long. It works (for a
few melts) but the furnace lining will break down. A fire clay
sand mixture is better- but that will eventually break down as
well. A good furnace can be made from a castable refractory
mix (available at your local pottery supply house) E.g. Mizzou
or Kast-o-Lite. Some of these are rated up to 3000F so you
can melt brass, bronze even cast iron. To do metals like that
you typically have to upgrade your burner tech. E.g. Propane or

Reply

Oil - not charcoal. Still - this instructable is a nice simple intro

furnace- and if you tried it and got into casting then you'd
probably be thinking of ways to upgrade your foundry.

void_main

3 hours ago

Reply

Really nice.
In regards to safety, before trying this at home, please search for "How
NOT to Pour Aluminum Metal" on YouTube. Very sobbering.

robthebrew

4 hours ago

Reply

21 hours ago

Reply

yesterday

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

http://thekingofrandom.com

carlos66ba

Excellent instructable. Thinking of making one myself.

helbersonr

friend he also melts glass ??

Safrapath

I love this. It's a nice simple design, all I'm having trouble with is a
suitable crucible. I can't find and old fire extinguisher that's small
enough anywhere!
Also, just so you know your link to www.thekingofrandom.com is nuts,
too many https.

billbillt Safrapath

2 days ago

Reply

Look around for empty propane cylinders used in soldering and

camping.. They seem to be the same thing...

offramp billbillt

yesterday

Yeah, that was the first thing I thought, too; I've got a ton of
them, collected for another purpose, so I can spare one or two
to make this.
It also occurred to me that you could use an old 20 gallon BBQ
grill propane canister in place of the bucket, here...

Reply

sxcgreekboi_24

yesterday

Reply

I watched you melt the alluminium cans last night and was wondering
how to make one

AlexT4

2 days ago

Reply

yesterday

Reply

yesterday

Reply

yesterday

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

Whaaaaaat you're on here too?

JSWheeler AlexT4

This is where I found him first haha :)

Brandon233

Cool

ViralFleek

is it possible purhcase these in europe?

pdu toit1

i run a brozne foundry i think this grate little furnes but not very good
for anything other than al

Mr AbAk

2 days ago

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

Nice and Well described Ible ....

Thissy01

I so need to make one of these... Excellent job!

pablofiasco

Would dental plaster work in place of plaster of Paris? I've go 2401630 lbs of Marlins magic (a hobby brand of dental plaster) just sitting
here doing nothing...m

alienvibes pablofiasco

2 days ago

Reply

Based on knowledge of ceramic mould making and kiln work...

check to see if the dental plaster contains any polymers. If it
doesn't then give it a shot.... cast a small quantity of plaster /
sand mix in an old tissue roll. Bake it in the over and see if it
cracks/crumbles to pieces. The sand is the key element.

Honus

2 days ago

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

Outstanding!

dregalia

Building this over the weekend. For another project that just kinda fell
into my lap.

pandamopeds13

2 days ago

Reply

Damn! Now thats too cool! Hmm... i may need to make one of these.
Been planning to make one of those soup can forges but this has so
much more use. Guess this also means i need to learn how to cast
stuff. Thanks for the awesome how to man... definitely hitting up that
sight of yours :D

pandamopeds13 pandamopeds13

2 days ago

Reply

edit: i have been collecting used sodacans and the like to crush
and recycle, but reusing them is so much more fun! also this
gives me an excuse to use our fireplace grate and melt down
some plastic bags to reuse in projects.

peterman921

2 days ago

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

built one years ago and used fireclay. melted many quarts of
aluminum in a stainless steel crucible. still have it

macktrotter

Awesome!
Can this melt copper? I believe the melting point is around 2500
degrees...

grunthos macktrotter

2 days ago

Copper melts around 1800-2000 degrees F. Yes, this will melt

it. But the issue is not really a yes/no question.

Reply

The real question is: how many times can you melt at those
temperatures before the plaster refractory starts to crack and
crumble? The short answer is that it will wear out sooner at
copper-melting temperatures than it will at aluminum melting
temperatures.
The short answer is: try and see. You'll likely have it work fine
at least several times, if not dozens. And if you REALLY end up
doing it more times than that, you'll figure out a tougher
refractory for the next cheap furnace.
On your second furnace, Mix in fireclay from a pottery supply
store, and fireplace mortar instead of plaster-of-paris, and
you'll get a hobby furnace that will last for many years.

helifino

2 days ago

Reply

Disliking the recent change in comments, before you could also

comment per-step.
Step 3, picture 5 has a typo.

BeachsideHank

2 days ago

Reply

Not only are your videos enjoyable, so are the sponsor inserts that are
seamlessly integrated and just as engaging. Keep 'em coming
Highness, I will pledge my cast from beer can aluminum sword in your
service as soon as I can down the 150 or so beers needed.

doodlecraft

2 days ago

Reply

2 days ago

Reply

2 days ago

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2 days ago

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2 days ago

Reply

I love it! Great job!

lilchumy

Another great instructable!

Tecwyn Twmffat

Very coool!

robbi1

nice set up....what did you use for forced air source

seamster

Knocked it completely out of the park, as usual.

So many layers of awesome in this! Just wow.

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

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