Page 1 of 30

Knitwear Technology (Fully fashion)

Knitting: Knitting is a inter locking / inter looping / inter matching of loops which form a
structure is called Knitting.
Weaving: weaving is a interlacement of two sets of yarn at right angles which form a
structure is called weaving.
Loop: banding form of yarn is called loop.
Apparel
Woven

Knitwear
Cut & sew
Tubular
Light
Fine gauge

Fully fashion
course gauge
heavy
sweater

Classification of knitted structure:

Knitted structure
Weft knitted structure
Circular knitting
Small
dia m/c

Flat bed knitting

Large
dia m/c

Warp knitted structure

Tricot

Raschel

Hand driven
Power driven
- Drive manually - Driven in power
End products:
End product:
- limited design - unlimited/fancy
Socks
T-shirt
can produce
design can produce - Multi non apparel seam
polo shirt - low volume
- High volume
can produce.
production
production
- Mosquito net.
-Fabric for clothing
- Integrated gmts - Integrated garments - Mesh fabric.
- Single Jersey
not possible
possible
- Power net.
- Rib knitted structure
- Fish net
- Double jersey
End products: sweater, fully fashioned - Laces etc.
- Lacoste / pique
knitwear, cardigan, poll over etc
Describe the various structures:

Page 2 of 30
Warp knitted structure: lengthwise (warp wise) direction of loops is called warp knitted
structure.
Mesh fabric: supporting fabric, look like a mosquito net use in short garments.
Power net: use in Hajack lamp.
Weft knitted structure: widthwise (weft wise) direction of loops is called weft knitted
structure.
Wales: vertical columns of loop are called Wales
Course: horizontal raw of loop is called course.
Types of knitting m/c:.
Circular knitting m/c: Needles are arranged in circular way thats why it is called
circular knitting m/c. It has two needle beds.
One is cylinder (vertical needles)
Another is dial (horizontal needles)
Dia: maximum circle distance in a circle is called dia. Two types of dia
small dia (for socks)
large dia (cutting fabric lacoste/pique)
Gauge: It means thickness. no. of gauge
Fine gauge : T-shirt (24g, 40g)
Course gauge: sweater (3g, 5g)
Higher the gauge finer the knit, lower the gauge courser the knit.
Flat bed Knitting m/c: Needles are arranged in flat way thats why it is called flat bed
knitting m/c. It has two needle beds.
-Technical front (T.F)
- Technical back ( T.B)
It is also called Jacquard m/c.
Integrated garments: without any stitch or linking in garments.
without any join, seamless garments.

Page 3 of 30
Shem seiki: Shem seiki is first producer of whole garments in Japan. Company name is
also known as brand.
-Ladies shirt is known as ladies blows.
- Heavy knitwear means sweater.
Why it is called fully fashion?
Fully fashion: Fully fashion is a method / technique of shaping a knitted structure by
increasing or decreasing the number of needles or wales.
In the fully fashion there is no fabric formats. Just it is made by increasing or decreasing
the shape of end product, increasing or decreasing of needles.
Advantages of fully fashion:
-

we can produce zero(less) wastage garments.

Less manpower.
we can produce quality garments/sealed garments.

Disadvantage:

Textile fiber: anything that can be garments/originated from fiber.

In narrow sense: Textile means fiber to fabric production. ie fiber

yarn

In greater sense:
fiber
clothing
Fibers are chemical/natural structure that can be spun into yarn.
Basic requirements for fibers:

Based on sourcing:
Textile fiber
Natural
Animal (wool)
Plant/vegetable (cotton)

Chemical made
Acrylic

Fiber: any types of substance but the length and thickness ratio is very high.

fabric

Page 4 of 30

Thickness and length ratio

1:800, 1:1000 etc

Major properties of fiber:

1.
2.

Mechanical properties:
Abrasion resistance
Flexibility
Stiffness.
Absorption properties: this is a measure of quality of water vapors, liquid water
etc.
ie
water absorption.
Water/oil release.
3. Thermal properties: The behavior of textile in the presence of heat or when
exposed to a flame.
- Heat resistance capacity.
- Soften and melting.

Fiber identification test:

1. Burning test:
Wool
Flammability
Burning smell
2. Chemical test:

Acrylic

Not flammable

highly flammable

hair burning smell

petrol burning smell

(-) alkalies
(+) acids
poor resistance in alkalis
good resistance in acids

3. Microscopic test:

(+) alkalies
(+) acids

Cotton
flammable
paper burning smell
(+) alkalies
(-) acids

Page 5 of 30

Based on length:
Fiber
Staple

Filament

Short
Cotton
(1.27 6.34 cm)

Long
Wool
(3.8 cm)

Acrylic
(2000 mtr)

Textile yarn:
Yarn: twisted form of fibers is called yarn.
ASTM: American society of textile materials.
ASTM definition of yarn: A generic term for a continuous strength of textile fibre is
called yarn.

Classification of textile yarn:

Textile yarn
Span
Simple

Filament
complex/ fancy/ vovelty
Mono

Single

Multi

Plied
Cords

cables

Flat

Twisted

Page 6 of 30
Visual properties:
-Mono
- Multi
- Staple
- Two ply yarn
- Multi ply yarn
- Cord
- Cable
Span yarn: Twisting together of staple fiber.
Single yarn: consists of just one stand of fibre.
Plied yarn: are art formed by twisting together two or more single.
Cords: are made by plying / twisting together by plied yarn.
Cables: are produced by plying cords.
Complex/ fancy: This has special effect on.
Slub yarn: contains partially bulky / fluffy.
Loop yarn: this yarn requires a base yarn (core yarn) around which fancy or effect yarn
is warped.
Wool yarn:
Sheep (fleece of sheep)
Lower part

upper part

Various levels:
Pure wool: 100% wool
Virgin wool: raw wool
Blended wool: 70% wool & 30% acrylic
Basic properties of wool:
-

It is heavy due to bulky fiber

Dull in appearance
Strength is very poor
Poor resistance in sunlight and heat.
Cool and low steam use

Page 7 of 30
-

Insects from poor resistance

React in alkalis
Shrinkage.

End use: Fully fashion, shut.

Acrylic: Acrylic is known as acrylonitrile which we get from acetylene of ethylene.
Acrylic is also known as cheaper substitute of wool.
Basic properties of Acrylic:
-

Light shining
Good strength
Comparatively low worm
Not react in sunlight.
First look bright but second it creates boblin.
Especially in heavy weight.

Cotton:
10 g, 12 g ------ Buyer prefer
Cotton yarn -------summer or spring
-------Fashion & Requirements
Basic properties of cotton:
-

Smooth and fine

Cool feeling
Strength medium to high
Insect dont like.

Disadvantages:
- Low resistance
End use: Knit, woven, fully fashion, inner and outer garments.

Page 8 of 30

Yarn use in fully fashion:

Basic yarn
-100% cotton
-Mixed cotton
-100% wool
-Blended wool
-100% acrylic
-Acrylic mlange

Fancy Farm
-chenille----Not wash
- Cashmere
-Angorn
- loop Yarn / Popcorn
- Tape yarn
- Nep yarn.
- Mohasre

Chenille: cotton Chenille

- lurcx chenille --- Feather chenille ----- Rainbow chenille---- Space dyed -------- Fade

Acrylic chenille

Cashmere kvj 100% acrylic

Rabit ----------- Angorn -----Neps -------- Boblin

Woven garments:
Fabric

Fully Faison Expensive but profitable also

Cutting
Sewing --- washing
Pressing
Finishing

Page 9 of 30
Production flowchart of fully fashion knit wear :
yarn receive from textile
Yarn inspection (Random basis)
Winding
Yarn cone distribution to the knitting operator
Knitting section
Knitting inspection
- In process &
- End process.
Linking section
Linking inspection
-In process &
-End process
Linking continue / trimming section
Mending
Washing hydro extracting and drying
Processing
Finishing

1. labeling
Name 1
Size -2
Care 2etc
2. Button hole Button Cutting
3. Hang tog pricing attaching
4. Folding
5. primary packing
6. Secondary packing
7. Quality audit by quality control team
8. Final packing
9. final inspection done by buyer responsibly by A Q L method
10. Ready for export
Hank

Page 10 of 30

Cone
Cotton
Inspection -- Color and weight
Lab deep
Color requirement depend on buyer
4 panels
5 panels -----Cardigan.
Weight
Production
1. Yarn quantity
a. Material quantity
b. Type of gage

Merchandising

Material: - 1. Strong yarn /Good strength

2. Less strength. (Chenille)
Gage: Normal gage 3g, 5g, 7g (16,1bs + 4%)
Fine gage --- 10g, 12g ---- (16,1b + (4+1) %) (Shadel +1%)
-

1. Why we weight the yarn?

If not weight the yarn then worker miss use the yarn. In distribution room
blog/protection because any worker could not entered the distribution room.

Fully fashion m/c

- Less manpower
- Quantity
-Design low
Knitting process is depend on design chart
Heart of the sweater production operator could not idea about actual design
chart .So they could not say how to design it. They learn if with experience not scientific
way.
7 gage: - 7 needles exist in per inch.
Fabric fault in fully fashion: 1. Hole
2. Laddering
3. Ply mistake --- yarn broken.
4.
Why we women worker in mending section?
Here is poor salary and women are expert in mending and they have biological support.

Page 11 of 30

Tremble drying m/c.

Boiler ----- Steam iron.
Different types of stitches / Design used in fully fashion Basic category: 1. Jersey stitch
Fancy category
2. Rib stitch
-- shaker / Half cardigan stitch.
3. Double jersey
--- Full cardigan stitch
Cables:--Milano stitch
1. Normal
-- Tuck stitch
2. Fancy
--printal stitch
3. Butterfly
-- Zigzag stitch
-- Drop knit stitch .
Diamond:1. Normal
2. Fancy
Stitch An intermeshed loop.
Describes different types of stitches / Design -----Jersey / Single jersey/single knit / plain knit / basic knit etc.
This is very basic knitting construction .Its a single beded structure .The needle diagram
of jersey is -----------The stitch diagram is -----It can produce both in flat bed 4 circular bed m/cProperties of Jersey stitch:Appearance: - In single Jersey both side are different in appearance.
Out look:T/M: V Shape stitch /jersey stitch.
T/B: Semi circle stitch /Are stitch.
-

Edge curling : it curls

T/B to t/B
T/B to T/B
in width wise
Length wise wilts wise
Strength: - Tightness and looseness activity.
Yarn tension T/F to T/B G curl
-Unbalanced fabric because back side no needle.
Carling so worker take time to linking and producing extra time.

How to reduce the curly:-

Page 12 of 30
1. After knitting and before sewing /linking by using parching. (Light knit circular knit
swach)
2. Use folder /attachment
3. Use standard m/c
Dimensional stability: - Because of single jersey dimensional stability in poor.
S.J garments do not washable.
How to reduce the dimensional stability?
1. To increase loop density
2. Apply resin finish chemical
resin use properties shaf t
- Soft ness
- Estability / elasticity.
Elasticity:-Length and width wise elasticity is same because course and wales wise loop
length almost same.
Unraveled: we can unroalled this structure in both side.
How ladering defect create
1. Needle head broken.
2. Loose tension.
3. Knot in the yarn.
Rib knitted structure:- The word rib derives from animal rib. This is a double beded
structure. The needles heads are not facing directly each other. There are various types
of rib knitted structure.
But very common structure is 1x1 & 2x2 rib; above3x3, 4x4 etc are known as fancy rib.
But 6x6 rib is known as specially Derby rib.
The needle diagram of 1x1 ribs
and stitches diagram of 1x1
The needle bed of 2x2
and stitch is
can produce both flat bed and circular
bed knitting m/c.
Appearance: - Same in appearance.
-semi circle loop can be observed between in v shape.
Edge curling: Rib structure does not curl at the edge. Its balanced structure.
Dimensional stability:-Dimensional stability is good.
Elasticity:-width wise direction is high than that of length wise.

Why width wise elasticity high?

-Semi circle width is high, so width wise elasticity high. Unraveled from close it only.

Page 13 of 30
Density: - Density is high in temperature in single jersey.
End use : - waist band, collar, cuff or total sweater. we can use by rib fabric.
High rib under garments, because elasticity and comfort ability.
Similarities between the single jersey and rib Structure.
1. we can produce the Single Jersey and Rib fabric in similar flat bed and circular bed
knitting m/c.
2. Both types fabrics are knitted structure.
3. Both fabrics are mend able.
4. created by loop formation.

Double jersey / Interlock/ Double faced fabric:

If the plain stitches are one bedded, the other fabric structure is known as double jersey /
interlock.
Its double bedded fabric, can produce both in flat bed & circular bed knitting m/c. The
needle diagram of double jersey is ------and the stitch diagram is -----It is called tight knitted. Theoretically needle heads are kept face to face but practically
needle heads are not face to face. It stay little bit in angle.
Properties and appearance.
1. Both side similar.
2. Curl: Double jersey does not curl because it very tight knitted fabric.
3. Dimensional stability good..
4. Unraveled : Same as rib.
5. Elasticity : Poor
6. Defecting: It laddering occurs. We cant mending like rib & jersey.
7. Density : Density high because both side needles are active.
Thickness & elasticity consider while identifying double jersey.

Page 14 of 30
End use:
Sweater
Gents & ladies wear
Light knit.
Sports wear ( suet absorbency high, dimensional stability high )
Ladies shirt.

Similarities between D/j and rib :

Basic knit
Both can made in flat bed circular bed m/c.
Both fabrics both side appearance same
Does not use.
Dimensional stability good.
Unraveled: Both are same.
Difference between D/j & Rib
1. Needle diagram
2. Stitch diagram 3. elasticity -

very poor

high (width wind)

4. density

High

Comparatively low

5. Weight
6. Mending

high

low
Not mend able

mend able

Page 15 of 30
Notation for knitted structure :

The symbol which represent different types of loops are called notations. There are two
types of symbols. We use to identify different structure like
Indicate technical face (v) loop
Indicate technical back loop.
So for single jersey Impotency :
1. Language variation avoided
2. Different name confliction avoidance.
3. Loop drawing is difficult and time consuming to avoid this problem

Process break down (operation break down) of a fully fashion knitwear:

Step by skip (body panel)
Select & setting needles for bottom rib .

Page 16 of 30
By needle selection for sleeve panel:
Prepare rib height
By going coursers
Loop transfer from

for saddle

for raglan

for straight

Back needle bed to

sleeve

Sleeve

Sleeve

Front needle bed

If the body is in search
For jersey setting by loop transfer comb

For 1 Step by step ( sleeve panel

Select and setting for cuff rib by needle
selector.
Prepare rib height by giving courses.
Linking (R/side)

Knit up to am hole start point

Pre pare arm hole by decreasing or

Decreasing or increasing both processes.
Also prepare back drip and reached up to
Neckline shoulder line.

Right shoulder joining left shoulder joining

Attach color rib
Link skive to body panel
Side seam linking
End of operation

Page 17 of 30
Identification of different types of fancy stitches/design
1. Shaker/Half cardigan stitch:
a. Normal construction 1X1 rib, double bedded structure. T/F & T/B
b. T/F-looks bulky/Fluffy V loop
c. T/B-looks tight V loop as chain stitch
2. Full cardigan stitch :
Normal construction 1X1 double bedded both side same. Both side raised V shape
like, but zigzag.
3. Milano stitch:
Normal construction double jersey ie, full needles from both side needle bed.
T/F & T/B not same.
T/F looks joint V stitch like after stitch
T/B looks chain or tight V shape.
4. Drop knit:
Could be any construction, like single jersey, rib, double jersey setting . Like 5X1, 4X2,
odd setting etc.
5. Zigzag :
Could be in any construction like single jersey, Double jersey. Vertical in hand driven.

Page 18 of 30
Tuck stitch :
Normal construction 1X1. could be single tuck or double tuck appearance. Looks like
single side honey comb both side honey comb.
Cables:
There are three types of cables
Normal

Fancy

Butterfly

Cables normally jersey.

Diamond:
Normal

Double
Needle

Pointed stitch :
Could be any construction.

Fancy

half diamond

Page 19 of 30
Knit wear ( Fully fashion ) stitch analysis
Style: Individual properties Something own.
Fashion: overall Related common geography , culture, age, sex, values, it could be
varied.
What are the objective of style analysis
1. Evaluate merchandise classification.
2. Plan fashioning ( design chart/ pattern chart)
3. Calculating / setting comparative costing and pricing.
If a merchandiser fiercest the style/ fashion then he/she kept to idea about the western
culture on western recent style/fashion.
Why we select the different fashion?

Page 20 of 30
Design Chart:
It is a heart of the fully fashion and very expensive factor.
Sweater style ( based on some ) factors:
Like
1. Body style/shape
2. Shoulder style ( Arm hole style)
3. Collar style/ neck style.
4. pocket style
5. Sleeve style.
]Body style/ shape:
Fitted waist
mans only

Straight bottom
for unisex

A line shape for

ladies only

Cardigan for
unisex

Shoulder style
Raglan

Saddle

Steen

drape

Shoulder

shoulder

Shoulder

shoulder

Straight
Shoulder

Page 21 of 30
Sleeve style :
Sleeve less

cap sleeve

short sleeve

3/r sleeve

For both

for ladies

for both

for ladies

Long sleeve
For both
Collar style :
Make neck it

sailor neck

Cant for

truer

boat knack

Round Neck

V Neck

polo neck

Hood Neck

High neck

Graded neck

Turtle neck

V inset neck

Round neck
With roll edge

Page 22 of 30
Pocket style :
Plain pocket

Real flap

hexagon

round

Square

blind

bellow

Pocket

pocket

pocket

pocket

pocket

Fake flap

fake lip

welted

inverted

Box

Pocket

pocket

pocket

pocket

pocket
Pocket

Style description :
Unisex pullover (straight bottom), mock neck, straight shoulder, long sleeve and single
line diamond center front, back & sleeve jersey.

Fashioning (Design chart/pattern chart) calculation for fully fashion knitwear

Page 23 of 30

What is design: Design is a creative indexer to solve a problem.

What is design chart: Design chart for a garment is a visual written instruction
Design chart produce in two methods:
a) Out line method
b) Graphical method
What is the basic requirement to calculation design chart?
a)
b)
c)

Size specification (Measurement)

Gage type
Weight of the garments

Pattern: Shape create by increasing or decreasing size that is called pattern.

Art: Art is the blue print of the design.
Design: Actual shape of the thing.
Swatch: Small part of the fabric.
Tension: Tight are looseness of the yarn is called tension.

Buyers required weight accordingly tension setup. But in seven gage m/c 8 or 6 needle
coming for tension. So tension selection in important because it is related to quality.
Swatch identification:

SW-2

SW-1

Excremental swatch wash dry pressing keep 24 hours rest 24 hours actual mesurment
yarn effect colour fastness, responsibility etc. Idea counter swatch compare.
4

16 =
4

4---------12
4

4 WPI
3 CPI

We can create design chart according to the measurement.

Calculate the fashioning sequence for the following knitted panel:

Page 24 of 30
Back panel/Pant
Say 7 Tension
WPI = 3
CPI = 4
A-A1 = 10
B-B1 = 20
C-C1/D-D1 = 20
A-B
B-C
C-D

= 10
= 12
= 2

For Rib fabric

Water / Needle
Course

3x20
4x2

= 60
= 08

Needle
Course

3x20
4x12

= 60
= 48

Raglan sleeve
Needle
Course

3x10
4x10

= 30
= 40

Body Position

Calculate Decreasing needle

60
30
30/2

15 one side decrease

No of count
No of 7 needle

Raglan sleeve panel:

40
15/40/2 (-1) = (15-10)
30
5
10

Page 25 of 30

Say tension
WPI
CPI

=3
=4

Cuff rib
Needle
Course

3x14
4x16

= 42
= 64

Welding:
Needle
Course

3x18
4x16

= 54
= 64

A
B

10+1 = 2
11+12 = 4

3x6
4x12

= 18
= 48

A
B

2-1
3-1

Narrowing:
Needle
Course

Front panel /Part

Say tension:
WPI
CPI

=3
=4

For bottom rib

Needle
3x14
Course
4x2

= 42
=8

Widening:
Needle
Course

= 60
= 72

A.

3x20
4x18

8+1 = 9

Straight:

=6
= 12

Page 26 of 30

Needle
Course

3x20
4x2

= 60
=8

A
B

2-1
3-1

3x8
4x16

= 24
= 64

=6
= 12

Narrowing:
Needle
Course
a.
b.

3-1 = 8
4-1 = 10

Calculation of fashioning for the following knitted panel:

Say tension
WPI = 18
CPI = 20
Bottom rib
Needle =
Course =

18x9
20x2

= 162
= 40

Widening:
Needle =
Course =
a.
b.

18x19 = 342
20x16 = 320

3+1 = 40
4-1 = 50

Straight:
Needle =
Course =

18x19 = 342
20x2 = 40

Font panel / part

Say tension
WPI
CPI

=
=

8
10

Page 27 of 30
For bottom rib-1
Needle =
Course =

8x14
10x2

= 112
20

Widening
Needle =
Course =
a.
b.

6+1 = 8
7-1 = 16

Narrowing
Needle =
Course =
a.
b.

8x20 = 160
10x16 = 100

8x4
= 32
10x10 = 100

4+1 = 20
5-1 = 4

Calculating yarn consumption for fully fashion knitwear

What is consumption?
In the garments trade, consumption means quantity of raw materials with a view to
determine the price of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much
fabric, raw materials, sewing thread, accessories are required to produce a garments up to
the exporting is called consumption.
What is the unit of consumption:

lb/oz

What are the requirements of calculation consumption?

-Material quantity
-Type of gage
-Business type of factory / buying house
-Weight of garments
Two types of yarn
a) Good Yarn
b) Poor Yarn.

What types of buying house exist?

Page 28 of 30

There are three types:

A) Direct order
B) Liago office
C) Corporate office: factory exist
Types of gage
a) Normal gage: 3g, 5g, 7g
b) Finer gage: 10g, 12g
Garments weight :
Weight
16 lbs/oz

Factory Wastage
6%
8% buying house

Gage
(10/12)g

chaining

Why buying house select wastage 8%

Calculating pricing / costing for fully fashion knitwear:

What is the objective of costing?
Basic requirement to calculating pricing
UnderstandingStyling
Designing

Type of gage

Production / delivery time (Season)

Payment mode

Basic types of buying house/factory.

Season calculation
Type of gage
3g, 5g, 7g
10g, 12g

Pricing:

Pick
March-August
September, February, March
August

Off Pick
September

Page 29 of 30

Costing + Profit = correct selling price

Direct + indirect cost include
calculation actual CM
C.M range based on gage
Type of gage
3g
5g
7g
(10/12)g

$
$
$
$

Styling charge:
For
Shaddle or Raglan shoulder
Set- in or drop shoulder
Straight shoulder

Off pick
17/Dz
18/Dz
19/Dz
22/Dz

: $ 0.50/dz
: $ 0.25/dz
:
No charging additional.

Designing charge:
For - Diamond
Normal Diamond
Fancy diamond

$
$

1.00/line/dz
1.50/line/dz

$
$
$

0.25/line/dz
0.50/line/dz
1.00/line/dz

For-Cable
Normal cable Fancy cable Butterfly cable -

$
$
$
$

Pick
19/Dz
20/Dz
21/Dz
24/Dz

Page 30 of 30

Mens pullover with crew neck, raglan shoulder., 3(three)line normal diamond at font
back side line butterfly, sleeve side line fancy cables, long sleeve weight 16 lbs/dz,
acrylic yarn 3 gage shipment 30th June. FOB mode shipment, for factory.
Required costing /pricing for fully fashion required yarn cost.
16 +16%
C.M cost
Style cost
Design cost

= 16.96 x $1.50

3 line diamond 1x3 = 3

1 line butterfly 1x1=1
2 line fancy cable .50x2 = 1

=
=
=
=
=

$
$
$
$

25.44
19.00
0.50
1.00

1.00

Trims and accessories

4.00

Banking, logistic and commercial

4.00

Total cost

57.00/Dz