FIJIAN

Chocolate

Fijian

Fijian Chocolate

Revitalising a Countrys Cocoa Heritage

Through Chocolate Crafted at the Source
By Elaine Young

Now is the perfect time to rediscover the taste

of chocolate, as a new breed of chocolate
makers are starting to blossom. Consumers are
becoming more discerning and there is even
greater emphasis on the source and origin
as well as a deeper interest in how it is made
than ever before. This comes as a result of
good quality chocolate becoming easier to find
and subsequently consumers are being spoilt
for choice.
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t is no longer sufficient
for a chocolate bar to
be presented as being
organic. Nor does it raise
much interest among the
chocoholics to declare that
it is produced with fair
trade cocoa beans, simply
because the consumer now
expects more. While in the
past these were popular
characteristics, more
emphasis is being placed
on bean to bar chocolates.
Bean to bar chocolates are
now taken a step further as
a handful of manufacturers
are getting right down to
the source, and building
cocoa processing facilities
where the farms are located.
This new wave of chocolate
makers either closely work
with the farmers to improve
crops, provide training
on better cocoa farming
practices, or even grant
a share of the company
profits. A handful of boutique
chocolate makers create
single origin bars whose
beans are grown, processed,
and transformed into
chocolate bars on site under
the care and supervision
of one group while
providing more work and
opportunities for the local
community.
The creation of the chocolate bar
as we know it has long been a joint
effort between different groups,

fijian chocolate

cooperatives and companies.

Traditionally, the vast majority of
cocoa comes from small, family-run
farms, a majority of which are from
Africa followed by Asia and South
America, often relying on outdated
farming practices and having limited
organisational leverage. Post harvest
processes involving fermenting and
drying may be done by the farmers
themselves or a cooperative if
available. Dried beans are then sent
to exporting companies through
local agents, and then subsequently
shipped to chocolate manufacturers.
The biggest manufacturing plants
are predominantly located in Europe.
Large chocolate manufacturing
companies sell chocolate bars
directly to the consumers or
distribute the chocolate to
chocolatiers to be transformed into
bonbons and pralines or specialty
bars.
Tomohito Zukoshi is part of the small
group of chocolate makers who is
deeply involved with the growers,
overseeing the process of creating
the chocolate, from the growing of
the pods, post harvest processes, to
producing chocolate bars.
It all started in 2005 when Tomo and
his wife Harumi, with their children,
migrated to Fiji to live in Savusavu
on the Vanua Levu Island. Originally,
they opened a Japanese restaurant
on the island. During their time in
Fiji, they discovered cocoa and fell

in love with the fruit. They started to

experiment with the cocoa beans
and learnt the art of processing
chocolate. They first served ice
cream made with their chocolate,
which eventually sold more than
their sushi rolls. From there, the
move to focus on making Fijiana
Cacao chocolate bars began.
Although cocoa may not be a major
crop in Fiji, it was the oldest export
that the island had prior to coffee
and tea. During the 1880s, the
British brought it into cultivation.
These are the same cocoa varieties
which were also introduced into
Sri Lanka from Trinidad and then
subsequently transferred to Fiji and
Samoa. Efforts by the government
to establish cocoa as a crop
started in the 1960s and took off
considerably in the early 1980s
as the world prices for cocoa
increased. Cocoa tree plantations
tripled between 1981 and 1985 and
peaked in 1987, producing over 468
tonnes of cocoa beans that year.
From that time, cocoa plantations
in Fiji experienced a constant
decline, with productivity reaching its
lowest level in 2000. A combination
of different factors resulted in
this decline. Contributing factors
included ageing trees surpassing
maximum production potential,
cocoa tree diseases, a fall in the
cocoa world prices, inadequate
marketing processes, tropical

FIJIAN

Fijian
Chocolate

Chocolate

...

continued

cyclones (such as cyclone Kina in

1993 which destroyed several cocoa
trees on the Viti Levu Island), and
political instability. The majority of the
cocoa farmers eventually shifted to
crops that were more profitable.
In 2007, despite the low cocoa
production in Fiji, Tomo decided to
start manufacturing dark chocolate.
In the early stages of Fijiana Cacao,
he was personally involved in the
plantation. He began his work by
revitalising abandoned plantations in
Vanua Levu Island. Tomo, along with
a team of farmers, pruned invasive
ivy that covered old cacao trees
such as the Cundeamor Trinitario,
black podded Amelonado Forastero
cacao and the tough Calabachillo
Forastero varieties. This allowed the
flowers to bloom and by 2008 cocoa

pods started to grow once again.

Fijiana Cacao started by introducing
locally grown and produced
chocolates to tourism stores, retail
outlets and local department stores.
Hotels and international resorts
across Fiji have supported their local
chocolate industry which helped
propel Fijiana Cacao as a brand.
They then expanded their reach and
are currently exporting to the United
States of America, Belgium, New
Zealand and Australian markets.
Fijiana Cacao has also been
introduced to Sweden, Geneva and
also to Switzerland.
Marketing efforts through
international exhibitions have helped
Fijiana Cacao to be recognised
worldwide. The company has won
awards for their efforts, such as the
2012 Prime Minister Exporter of
the Year Award and the SIAL Paris
Innovation Award.
Subtle flavours of honey, spices,
nuts and raisins with a hint of
smokiness are the taste experiences
that we can expect from a Fijiana

Cacao chocolate bar. The flavours

are influenced by the Trinitario and
Forastero bean varieties that grow
in the region. The plantations are
located in areas with plenty of
shading trees such as paw paw,
coconut, guava and banana trees.
The consistent tropical temperature
as well as humid environments,
with regular rainfall, are the perfect
conditions for growing Fijian cocoa
trees.
Fijiana Cacao has come a long
way from where they started. This
is just the beginning of a bigger
vision that Tomohito Zukoshi has
for the company. He envisions
Fijiana Cacao to be the pillar of the
South Pacific chocolate industry,
while supporting the farmers and
improving plantation techniques,
as well as post harvest processing
procedures. Tomo envisions
reinvigorating the once prosperous
cocoa industry of Fiji.
It is going to be a long journey with
many challenges along the way, but
its clear that Tomo is deeply devoted
to chocolate. He is dedicated to
helping the farmers be proud of the
Fijian cocoa industry, being part
of something special and having a
strong rekindled community spirit.
He is happiest when he sees the
smile of accomplishment from them.
Only through the support from the
consumers, industry partners and
government would this be possible.
Tomohito Zukoshi, the chocolate
man from Fiji is passionate and
driven to make his mark in the cocoa
industry.

ABOVE: FAR RIGHT: Tomohito and wife Harumi

Elaine is a Consultant Pastry Chef/

Chocolatier who has worked with
food companies helping them to
create an engaging connection
with their consumers through
professional and expert advice,
recipe development, demonstrations
and informational content. She
offers services on training and menu
design for the hospitality industry
needing creative input and improved
productivity in pastry and chocolate
operations.

www.ediblejourneys.com.au
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