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The way a fabric burns depends partly on its fiber content. The Table below describes typical burning
characteristics of fibers, ranking them from the most to least hazardous.
and vinyon
Fabrics that are a blend of two or more fibers do not burn in the same way as either fiber. Sometimes,
blends are more dangerous than either fiber. For example, fabrics of 50 percent cotton and 50 percent
polyester tend to burn longer than a similar fabric of either cotton or polyester.
The way a fabric is made (knit, weave, lace, etc.) affects how it burns.
Heavy close structures ignite with difficulty and burn more slowly than light, thin, or open fabrics.
In general, summer weight clothing is more likely to catch fire than winter weight fabrics.
However, heavy weight fabrics burn longer when ignited, because there is more flammable
material present.
Fabrics with more of the fiber surface area exposed to air have more oxygen available to support
burning and therefore burn more easily. Thus, thin, gauzy fabrics, lace, or brushed fabrics can be
very flammable.
Fabrics with a napped or brushed surface of fine fibers can catch fire easily because of the
greater amount of fiber surface exposed to oxygen in the air
hoosing fabric for clothes is the most important step in sewing a garment. The
wrong choice can mean a very unsuccessful project! Fortunately, there are usually
a few right fabric options for any pattern, so its not too difficult to pair up a
fabric and pattern.
Have a pattern?
Patterns will tell you which types of fabrics the pattern was designed for.
Although there are no sewing police to come arrest you if you deviate from
the suggested fabrics, beginning sewists especially will want to stick to the
list. The fabrics listed will have properties (in terms of weight, stretch and
drape) that complement the design of the pattern.
Cotton lawn: Lawn is very similar to cotton voile but is slightly crisper.
Rayon challis: Rayon challis is a smooth, lightweight fabric. It drapes well and is
slightly heavier than other lightweight fabrics, like cotton voile and cotton lawn.
Chambray: Chambray is another smooth, lightweight fabric. It doesnt drape as well as
Double gauze: Double gauze is a unique fabric in that it is literally two layers of gauze
woven together. The double layer of fabric eradicates the main problem of sewing clothing
from gauze (the sheerness), while retaining the good qualities (extremely light and
breathable).
Knit: In the knit fabric category, there are several types of knit, varying from
lightweight to medium weight. Knit fabric is your go-to for any garment that needs to have a
great deal of stretch. Patterns are designed for either woven fabric or knit fabric, and
patterns sized for knit fabric will often specify the degree of stretch needed in the fabric.
Silk: Silk is a lightweight, delicate fabric that drapes well. It has a slightly shimmery
appearance. Silk can be slippery and more difficult to work with. It also makes a great lining
fabric.
Satin: Satin can vary from lightweight to heavyweight, depending on the type of satin.
Like silk, it has a glossy appearance.
Linen: Linen is a medium-weight fabric with little elasticity (hence the wrinkles). But
it conducts heat very well, which is why its a popular choice for warm-weather anything.
Wool: There are over 200 different types of wool, coming from 40 different breeds of
sheep, so the weight will vary depending on the type of wool. Wool is extremely hard-wearing
and versatile. Its also very warm and a good choice for colder weather garments.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, but these fabric types are a good
place to start when shopping.
Have great fabric? Match your fabric to a garment and start pattern shopping:
Shirts and blouses: Cotton voile; rayon challis; double gauze; knit; silk; chambray;
cotton lawn; linen; and flannel (for less drapey shirts and blouses).
Dresses: Cotton voile; cotton lawn; rayon challis; double gauze; knit; silk; satin; linen;
and wool (for colder weather).
The weight of the fabric can be a deciding factor when choosing a pattern; a
lightweight fabric will usually require a pattern suitable for warmer
weather. If you need more guidance on choosing fabric for clothes, see our
post on how to pair fabrics with sewing patterns.
If you have additional questions about these fabrics, please Google
them before sending me an email! (I don't know everything)
This DIY guide is for people who love to sew but don't know anything about
different fabrics. The more you know about fabric, the easier it will be to sew! I
have a lot of information on this page. If it's too much for you, just read #1
about different fabric weights and the first couple paragraphs of #2 about
different types of fabric and fibers.
Cotton
Very cool, absorbent, and comfortable. Takes a long time to dry compared to other fibers. Will shrink when
you wash it. Medium strength. Ages well. Used in many things, for example t-shirts, jeans, underwear, and
upholstery. Combed cotton is softer and better quality than regular cotton.
Flax (linen)
Cool and absorbent, like cotton. Wrinkles badly, need a very hot iron to get rid of wrinkles. Shrinks in water,
dry cleaning is recommended. Usually used in summer clothing and home decor.
Ramie
Similar to cotton and linen, but fairly expensive.
Polyester
Does not wrinkle. Does not absorb water well. Dries quickly, doesn't shrink in water. Not very comfortable
when a tight fitting garment is 100% polyester. One of the cheapest fibers. Very strong. Also called terylene.
Rayon
Similar to cotton: cool, absorbent, and comfortable. Wrinkles easily and has only fair strength. Also called
viscose.
Nylon
Strongest major fiber. Very stretchy. Not very absorbent, therefore not very comfortable.
Acetate
Very cheap, not very strong. Dry-clean only. Feels silky and comfortable. Usually used in linings.
Spandex
Very stretchy, will recover instantly to same size. Best used in small percentages to add comfort to a nonstretchy fabric. Also called lycra.
Acrylic
Doesn't wrinkle easily, good strength. Used as a cheaper, more washable substitute for wool and also in fake
furs.
PVC/Polyurethane
Stretchy and waterproof. Usually one side of fabric will be PVC/polyurethane, the other side (backing) will be
another fiber like polyester. Doesn't breathe and is not very comfortable if used for an entire garment.
Silk
Comes from a silkworm. Comfortable, absorbent, wrinkles easily (especially when wet). Sometimes dryclean only. Very thin.
Wool
Comes from a sheared sheep. Strong, warm, dry, doesn't wrinkle easily. Can be coarse and itchy, but high
quality wool is soft. Dry-cleaning works best.
Mohair
Comes from an angora goat. Softer and shinier than wool. Expensive.
Leather
Comes from dead animals. Strong and absorbent.
Best fabrics/fibers to use in DIY clothing:
3. Fabric Constructions
Three main types of fabric constructions:
Double Knit- two faced, which means the back and front look exactly the same. stretches a lot, good
for t-shirts.
Interlock- similar to double knit. will fray at the edges.
Jersey- stretchy with a smooth face. will curl at the edges when stretched. many uses.
Rib Knit- very stretchy, has vertical parallel ridges running. used for tank tops, neck trim of t-shirts,
and sweatshirt cuffs.
Tricot- thin, made with fine yarns. good for lingerie and underwear.
Some of these woven fabrics can also be made as knits:
Broadcloth- tightly woven. used for skirts, blouses, dresses, and summer clothing.
Brocade- elaborate designs woven in. wide range of prices, usually used for formal clothing.
Canvas- heavyweight material. not good for clothes but you can use it to make patches.
Chiffon- sheer, fine, and limp, and has a slightly bumpy look. used for blouses, evening dresses and
scarves.
Chino- lustrous twill weave. used for army uniforms and many other garments.
Corduroy- has pile (like velvet). make sure to cut all pattern pieces in the same direction, as light will
reflect differently depending on which way the pile goes. many uses (excluding shirts).
Crepe- lightweight with a crinkled or puckered surface. used for dresses and formalwear.
Denim- same as twill. weave has diagonal, parallel ridges. many uses.
Flannel- medium-weight with a soft, fuzzy surface. many uses, for example shirts and pajamas.
Fleece- can be knit or woven. made from wool. can be cheap or expensive, quality usually depends on
price. good for jackets and warm clothing.
Gingham- printed or dyed with a striped or checked pattern. variety of weights and uses.
Muslin- inexpensive medium weight fabric, used for fitting garments before real fabric is used. (a
"mock-up")
Poplin- lustrous with a corded surface. many uses.
Satin- has a glossy surface, made in many different weights and varieties. used in dresses, linings,
formalwear, jackets, and more.
Sateen- satin that is made out of cotton.
Seersucker- medium to heavy weight with crinkles in the weave. many uses.
Taffeta- smooth, shiny, and stiff. used for formalwear.
Terry- has a looped pile. very absorbent, has many uses.
Tulle- thin, stiff, and fine. used for formalwear.
Tweed- medium to heavy weight twill fabric. many uses, mostly suits and coats. lighter weights used
for dresses.
Twill- has diagonal parallel ridges. if you don't know what this means, look at any pair of jeans. usually
a bottom-weight fabric.
Velour- woven (but sometimes knitted) fabric with uneven pile, which creates light and shaded areas.
woven used for formalwear, knit velour has many uses.
Velvet- woven with a thick pile. for best color/shade results, cut with pile running up. cheaper velvet
deteriorates after a few wearings. used mostly for formalwear.
Velveteen- like velvet, but with shorter pile.
Felt- many fibers fused together. poor quality unless it is wool felt.
Interfacing- stiff fabric used to support and add weight to garments. can be woven or knit.
Lace- usually made by machine. can be used for decoration on almost any garment. also can be
woven or knit.
The burn test has to be carried out with great precaution. Arrangement of water near the site of test should be
made. The test should be done in a metal bucket, an old tuna tin or a glass ashtray. Plastic containers should
always be avoided. If the dish contains soda or even water at its bottom, its great.
The Method
To identify the fibers in an unknown piece of fabric, a snippet should be cut off from it. This specimen should be
about 1" long and a triangle at most 1/4" wide. The snippet of fabric should be held in a pair of tweezers over the
dish (which has already been made fireproof). With either a match or cigarette lighter, the snippet should be put
directly into the flame long enough for it to catch on fire.
Most of the fabrics burn and they have to be extinguished. There are other fabrics that burn until there is nothing
to burn, or they burn and go out on their own after a few seconds leaving remaining unburned fiber and are
therefore self-extinguishing. There are certain other fabrics that does not burn even with a flame held directly to
it.
Fibers can also be identified through the smell of the smoke it gives off in burning, and the ash or melted bead
that remains after it has burned. Some of the fabrics are blends, and the blend of fibers may make the burn test
rather unreliable test for fiber content. Moreover, some fabrics have chemical finishes and sizings applied to them
that will change the way they burn, making the burn test further unreliable.
The fiber burn chart given below helps in identifying the nature of the fibers on the basis of their burning
characteristics and the smell and other properties of the remains such as smoke, ash etc.
Is a cellulose fiber. It burns and may flare up when lit. No melted bead is left by it. After burning, it continues to
glow. It gives out smell like that of a burning paper. The smoke is gray or white. The ash is fine, soft that can be
easily crumbled.
Hemp
A cellulose fiber, burns quickly with bright flame. It leaves no melted bead and after burning no sign of flame is
seen but it does not melts. It smells like burning leaves or wood. The ash is gray and smoke has no fume hazard.
Jute
Also a cellulose fiber, doesnt shrink from flame. Other characteristics are similar to those of hemp fabric.
Linen (Flax)
A cellulose fiber, it takes longer to ignite. It is easily extinguished by blowing on it. Other properties are similar to
hemp and jute.
Rayon
Is a manufactured cellulose fiber. It burns without flame or melting and may flare up. Unless there is a fabric
finish, it doesn't leave any bead. After the flame is removed, it may glow a bit longer than cotton. It smells like
burning paper and leaves soft, gray ash. It's smoke is a little hazardous.
Silk
Is a protein fiber which burns slowly and curls away from the flame. It leaves dark bead which can be easily
crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves ash that is dark, gritty, fine powder. It smells like burned hair or
charred meat. It gives out a little or no smoke and the fume has no hazard.
Wool
Is a protein fiber which burns slowly. It sizzles and curls away from flame and may curl back onto fingernail. It
leaves beads that are brittle, dark, and easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves harsh ash from crushed
bead. It gives out a strong odor of burning hair or feathers. It gives out dark smoke and moderate fume.
Acetate, Triacetate
Is a protein fiber which burns quickly and can flare even after flame is removed. The bead is hard, brittle, and
can't be crushed. It melts into very hot bead and drips very dangerously. No ash is left by it and the smell is like
hot vinegar or burning pepper. It gives out black smoke and the fume is hazardous.
Nylon, Polymide
Are made from petroleum. Due to their fabric finish, they quickly burn and shrink to flame. The beads are hard,
grayish and uncrushable. After flame, they burn slowly and melt. They are self-extinguishing but drip dangerously.
Their odor is like celery and they leave no ash but the fume is very hazardous.
Polyester
Is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. It burns quickly and shrinks away from flame,
may also flare up. It leaves hard, dark, and round beads. After the flame, it burns slowly and is not always selfextinguishing. It has a slightly sweet chemical odor. It leaves no ash but its black smoke and fume are hazardous.
Acrylic, Modacrylic, Polyacrylic
Made from natural gas and petroleum, they flare up at match-touch, shrink from flame, burn rapidly with hot
sputtering flame and drip dangerously. Beads are hard, dark, and with irregular shapes. They continue melting
after flame is removed and are self-extinguishing. When burning, they give out strong acrid, fishy odor. Although
no ash is left but their black smoke and fume are hazardous.
As the procedure of fabric identification helps to ascertain the structure of the materials, it is essentially
undertaken by the weavers and other textile companies. The textile industry uses various machines, such as,
inspection machine, burn machine, fabric dyeing machine, fabric insulation machine and such other machines for
carrying out the burn tests of fabrics. The fashion industry is one of its most important aspect as they make
specific demands for special or usual cloth materials. The enormous reputations of many famous fashion designer
brands are regularly rising all over the world and their clothing lines have special labels declaring to have passed
fabric burn tests.
How to Identify Textile Fibers Based on How They Burn.
Index
Identifying Criteria
Test Procedures
Limitations
Caution
Identifying Criteria
The burning test is a somewhat subjective , but simple , test based on the knowledge of how particular fibers burn.
In the burning test, the following characteristics are noted:
The burning test is normally made on a small sample of yarns which are twisted together. Since the yarns used in
one direction of a fabric are not always comprised of the same fibers used in the other direction, warp and filling
yarns should be burned separately.
Return to Index
Test Procedures
Select a small sample of at least six to eight yarns about 4 inches long, and twist them together into about a 1/8
inch in diameter bundle. Hold one end of the bundle with tweezers or two coins. A sheet of aluminum foil about 10
to 12 inches square can be used as a protected working area. If the sample ignites it can be dropped on the foil
without damage. Either a candle or match can be used to provide the flame.
Return to Index
Limitations
The characteristics observed during the burning test can be affected by several things. If the fabric /yarn contains
blends of fibers, identification of individual fibers can be difficult. Two or three different kinds of fibers burned
together in one yarn may also be difficult to distinguish. Finishes used on the fabric can also change the observed
characteristics.
Return to Index
Caution
Some fibers are slow in igniting, but then burn quickly. Others can burn hot and produce a painful burn if caution is
not maintained.. Care also must be exercised so that your hair is kept out of the flame.
Return to Index
Cotton: Burns, but does not melt. It has the odor of burning paper,
Silk: Burns, but does not melt. It shrinks from the flame. It has the odor of charred meat. The residue is a
black, hollow irregular bead that can be easily to a gritty black powder. It is self-extinguishing, i.e., it
burns itself out.
Wool, and other Protein Fibers: Burns, but does not melt. It shrinks from the flame. It has a strong
odor of burning hair. The residue is a black, hollow irregular bead that can be easily crushed into a gritty
black powder. It is self-extinguishing, i.e., it burns itself out.
Return to Index
Manufactured Fibers
Most manufactured fibers both burn and melt, and also tend to shrink away from the flame. Other identifying
characteristics include:
Acetate: Has an odor similar to burning paper and vinegar. Its residue is a hard, dark, solid bead.
Acrylic: Has a fishy odor. The residue is a hard irregularly-shaped bead. It also gives off a black smoke
when burned
Nylon: Has an odor likened to celery. Its residue is initially a hard, cream-colored bead that becomes
darker.
Olefin/Polyolefin: Has a chemical type odor. The residue id a hard, tan-colored bead. The flames creates
black smoke.
Polyester: Has a somewhat sweet chemical odor. The residue is initially a hard cream-colored bead that
becomes darker. Flames gives off black smoke.
Spandex: It burns and melts, but does not shrink from the flame. It has a chemical type odor. Its residue
is a soft black ash
Cut small swatches of each fabric you want to test. Two-inch squares are fine.
2.
Place a swatch in your fireproof container and ignite a corner of the fabric.
3.
An odor similar to burning hair or feathers indicates wool or silk fibers, but silk
doesn't always burn as easily as wool.
A darkish plume of smoke that smells like chemicals or burning plastic probably
Cotton ashes are soft and fine. They turn to dust when touched.
Black, brittle remnants that crush between your fingers indicate wool fibers.
5.
Take one more step. Unravel a clump of threads from another small swatch of the fabric.
Hold the clump with tweezers (over your flameproof container) and slowly move a small flame
towards the clump.
Synthetic fibers curl away from the heat and tend to melt.
Ads
Rayon still burns after the flame is removed, and although it has an odor similar to cotton
or paper, it does not have an afterglow after removing it from the flame. Cotton produces an
afterglow.
but do try to determine what type of fabric it is so that you'll know how to care for the quilt when
it's finished.
One bit of advice, most quilt block and fabric swaps do require that you use all-cotton fabrics.
Reserve fabrics made from other materials for your own use or for swaps that allow variations.
CONCLUSION
My first hypothesis was that cotton would burn the most completely. The results
indicate that my first hypothesis should be accepted, because cotton had the smallest
area unburned.
My second hypothesis was that cotton would burn the fastest. The results indicated
that my second hypothesis should be rejected because linen burned the fastest.
After thinking about the results of this experiment, I wonder if the way the cloth is
washed or the soap used would change the results of this experiment.
If I were to conduct this project again I would do more trials for each type of cloth and
I would use more types of cloth.
RESEARCH REPORT
Introduction
Clothing fires are very dangerous; they can cause serious injury or even death.
This is why highly flammable fabrics should be avoided. This is especially true
in household with young children, in tall hotels, and in places like hospitals or
nursing homes where people are less able to help themselves.
Cotton
Cotton fibers come from around the cotton plants seeds. Cotton will hold 24-27
times its own weight in liquid and is stronger when wet than dry. Cotton will feel
damp after 15% of its own weight in water is absorbed. Cotton can bend back on
itself 3,200 times without breaking. Cotton is a valuable crop because only about
10% of the raw weight is lost during processing. Some authorities claim that it
was likely that cotton had been used by the Egyptians as early as 12,000 BC.
Evidence of cotton has been found in Mexican caves that dates back to
approximately 7,000 years ago. During the mediaeval times, cotton was known
as an imported fiber in northern Europe, without any knowledge of what it came
from other than it was a plant. Cotton is used for fishnets, coffee filters, tents,
bookbinding, and textile industries. The first Chinese paper was made from
cotton fiber, just like the modern US dollar bill and even fire hoses were once
made from cotton. The cottonseed that remains after the cotton is ginned is used
to make cottonseed oil, which can be consumed by humans like any other
vegetable oil, after refining.
Wool
Wool is flame resistant and will absorb 30% of its own weight in liquid without
feeling damp. Wool is very durable; it can withstand being bent 20,000 times.
Wool traps still air in the fibers to keep heat close to the body. Small amounts of
liquid such as small spills, light rain or snow will stay on the surface or run off of
the wool. Wool also takes moisture away from the skin. Wool resists wrinkles
and tearing. Wool is delivered from the hair of animals of the Caprinae family,
mainly sheep and goats. Wool is generally a creamy white color, but some sheep
produce black, brown, and grey. Wool contains a high level of grease called
lanolin when taken straight off the sheep. Wool is separated into five main
categories after shearing, fleece, pieces, bellies, crutchings, and locks. The
diameter of the fiber varies from 15 micrometers to 30 micrometers.
Silk
Silk, one of the oldest textile fibers known to man, was once sold for its weight in
gold. Silk is the strongest natural fiber. Steel filament of the same diameter will
break before silk. Silk is a fiber taken from the cocoon of the silk worm.
Chinese history credits Yuen Fei for the invention of silk fabric. Silk was
reserved first for the Emperors of China, but eventually spread through Chinese
culture socially and geographically. The average cocoon contains 300 to 400
meters of silk. About 5500 silkworms can produce 1 kg of raw silk. Silk was
estimated to be produced 4700 years ago. The shinny appearance of silk comes
from the fibers triangular prism-like structure; this allows silk cloth to refract
incoming light at different angles. Silk is used for parachutes, bicycle tires,
comforter filling, artillery gunpowder bags, and even early bulletproof vests,