Escolar Documentos
Profissional Documentos
Cultura Documentos
J>>*fPWvCi
or JJomesvia/ir/s S^Sciences
ucranTQfkJzi.
is
and
REFERENCE BOOK
*J0nf
TO BE REPORTED ON
~0
THE STUDENT:
Bustles,
and
go,
hoop
but
skirts,
aprons, like
always necessary.
Many modern-type aprons are exploited and
many have much merit, but the home-loving
woman likes the clean, fresh apron to put on for
the ceremony of dinner getting or for the bit of
special sewing.
And in between, the apron is a
safeguard, for many, kinds of household work.
Therefore, practically all types are considered so
that one may choose and make that which pleases
her most, and vary the design or idea to suit her
own
special fancy.
M.B.P.
Company
1.
housewife.
may
clean
little
The number
2.
to express.
friends of the
clothes
truly be called
tie
dirt
the
House aprons,
wife,
must be
to
serviceable.
12
[2]
12
With house
that match.
Such
aprons,
caps, in
5.
The work
here considered.
and you
will get
good
results if
of house-apron construction
essentials
are
if
simple,
is
simply neat
in
As you
designs,
will readily
Fig. 1,
is
it
of
interest
the waist
in
line,
the
is
essential in a
house apron.
is
may
that
the
in
point
of
make it
The
styles.
be varied to
manner
position
which the straps are arranged over the back waist portion
and for house aprons intended for only occasional wear, but for an
apron that must withstand common usage and frequent launderings,
12
percale,
calico,
For the
of similar design, or
extended
portion
straight
straps
the
at
full
for the
width of
front
skirt
8.
Out the
Cutting-
Material.
material
that
so
front edge
center-
its
along the
is
fold.
lower edge
front
is
next to the
portion
skirt
center front
is
and
its
pieces
material
may
advantage,
sections
so
that
the
placing
lengthwise
all
of
these
the
fabric.
[2]
12
fitting
or
it
comfortable.
will not
Then pin
Before removing the bodice, mark the straps with chalk or pins to
where they join the bodice section in back; then
loosen them from the bodice at these points, but not at the shoulder.
Finish the shoulder joinings of the straps to the bodice and also
the joinings of the strings to the bodice by
or French seams.
Finish
all
means
of machine fells
the waist
little
front.
then trim the raw edges close on the wrong side and overthem or cover them with a narrow bias facing.
Finish the free ends of the straps with -|-inch hems and sew snap
fasteners to them and to the bodice edge where they are to join.
Complete the apron by making and applying the patch pockets and
portion
cast
10.
hem
at the
If
finish
the edges of the bodice portion, sash and pockets of the bodice apron
This
is
first
turning
it
it
shown
in Fig. 2.
and then
down, you may
in position,
it
12
To
wrong
is,
first
and
Then turn
you
side
and
and
stitching,
more, and
trifle
will
ready-made binding
By
b.
stitch as at a;
on the
right side.
If
when
is
to be used,
finished, so as to catch
V
-----
-"
: "-':
''
-''"
:.-.
'""
"
:
-*;
'
..-....
.:.
-.;
.
.'.''.
'
"
;-:
Fig. 2
To become
this
apron
12
In Fig. 3
is
in Fig.
4 the back of a
cover-all apron with long sleeves set into the natural armhole line.
No housewife's
outfit
same purpose
practically the
when much
dress
serves
as a house
home.
in the
As you
with a Dutch
which
collar,
apron
The
is fitted
simple and
is
dresses on which a
and house
flat collar is
desired.
it
is
is
and
at
buttoned,
draw
in
some
dart extending
front,
is
to
midway between
the neck
apron
bust.
she
is
working.
Fig. 3
bray, or calico
of this kind.
is sufficient
12
may
if
you prefer, you may use a plain-waist pattern if you provide a dart
and add a skirt portion of the desired length. Also, a slightly gathered sleeve with straight cuff and a Dutch-collar pattern are required.
is
is
pieces
you prefer
If
follow
tern,
Fig. 5.
the
First of
method
all,
illustrated
in
Lap
at the
Then
person
having a prominent
bust.
a, is
hem
allow-
may
provide piecings, as at
Fig. 4
desired, so as to
12
the selvage
let
After
Any
ance
may
up toward the
it
side
seam
illus-
line.
center-back line
is
so that the
it
down
mark
Also,
hem on
if
you wish,
the material.
As
possible, so that
made of two
thicknesses
pattern so that
it is
the edge, as at d.
the back edge
The
is
cuffs,
made
of
this pattern, if
is
also,
along the
are to be
from
e.
12
worn with
costume.
14.
shown
is
considered
one end of the material on which the apron pattern pieces are placed.
15.
front portion and baste the shoulder and under-arm seams together
regular
in the
back and
stitch
straight
stitch these parts together; also, French-seam the sleeve and stitch
through both the sleeve and the cuff, taking care to secure the ends
at the bottom of each cuff so that the seams will not be liable to rip
open.
The seams
into plain
At
An
apron of
this
With
all
under
it.
these points taken care of, remove the garment and pro-
ceed to finish it, remembering that it buttons down the back and
has across the back a belt that buttons in place, two buttons being
used on each
side.
10
12
machine stitching
if
is
done
in the
Of
course,
if
you
banding of a contrasting color may be used however, the bias banding of the material of which the apron is being made is very
attractive and satisfactory, and, besides, is inexpensive.
Stitch the
;
Fig. 6
banding on the wrong side of the collar portion, turn it over to the
and baste and stitch it in position.
Then, baste and stitch the collar portions to the neck of the apron
with the center front, of the collar to the center front of the
apron, and the back edge of the collar even with the center of
the hem at the back of the apron, as at b. Face the neck with a
narrow bias facing, as shown at c, which should be long enough
right side, as shown,
to extend
all
the
way around
wrong
manner indicated
it
side of the
apron and
Turn
stitch
will not be
it
the bias
down
in
back from
Then
finish
12
11
Petticoat for
17.
just
is
the
under
it,
is
cool
it
worn
many women
made
coat
material
apron.
the
as
same
the
of
shows a petticoat
that is practical and satisfactory for wear with the
7
Fig.
sleeved apron, as
and very
easily
two-
or
skirt pattern
for
this
opening
it is
three-piece
may
the
same
at the
The
be used
petticoat.
of
plain
made.
The
petticoat
left side,
two openings
place.
petticoat, or skirt, is
fitted in the
the
hem
its
is
so turned that
Fig. 7
it
is
to be worn.
straight
bias ruffle
ment.
As you
scant, so as not to
is
is
working.
As
it
is
made
rather
to be in the
way
12
12
length to one and one-half times the width of the skirt at the bottom
is
used for a
ruffle
is
and
employed.
SWEEPING CAP
Material and Pattern Requirements.
18.
cap that
is
sweeping
The
(&).
is
style of this
of
it is
material
suitable
cap
made
it
an-
many
woman
the
in
fact,
it
has
and gives
who sews a
possibilities
trimming
to
its
it
so as to
add
effectiveness.
sleeved apron
is
suitable,
-|
longsuggested
for
the
yard usually being all that is required.
pattern in two pieces, one for the crown, or the part of the
cap that rests on the head, and the other for the vizors, or brim
portions,
19.
eyes,
Follow
is
essential.
Fig. 5 in cutting out the cap, placing the longer straight edge of the
apron.
manner suggested
If bias
in connection
banding or braid
Hem
is
9.
it
should be
Then, beginning
at the center
12
13
of the upper part of the crown, fold the crown into tiny plaits, as
Put the cap on next, lap the hems over each other, and then bring
the
crown down
large,
make
in a point, as
the plaits a
little
shorter.
If the cap
is
shown
in Fig. 8 (o).
and
c,
too small,
make
c longer.
When
Fig. 9
directly
plaits will
be held in
Next, work four buttonholes along the right-hand side of the cap
e,
first
left,
sew
at the center
when
there
is
14
12
KIMONO APRON
20. In Fig. 10 is shown the front view and in Fig. 11 the back
view of a kimono apron. This apron serves practically the same
purpose as the sleeved apron just
described, and it has found a place in the
many women.
hearts of
it
is
the
Without doubt,
most popular of the house
its
simplicity
and the fact that very little time is required to make it and very little labor to
launder it. Then, too, the neat way in
which the neck is finished is of special
interest.
slender and
women
When
the bust
is
large,
a dart
necessary in order
may hang
straight from
Such a dart would not appear
a kimono apron having a seam
the bust.
well in
made
in a
kimono
from 3^
to 4
is
for the
apron, including the hems, measure from the lower edge of the
12
15
skirt in the
finished
a contrasting color
rial suitable
is
used.
for piping
may
However,
be no material on hand
when piping of
As a rule, mate-
be obtained from
if
there happens
Each
piping
strip
may
model.
22.
In
you
have made one ready, so that its center front
and center back are along the fold of the
material.
If
you intend
Fig.
fold the
waist pattern together through the center of the sleeve, thus bringing
the front under
arm
16
12
it
may be
separated.
The
lift
apron
object in
is
to
Then,
of the material.
the
it
too,
is
To
//
//
//
C'\
//
*
>'
4)
"*
,L_
fas
*>
:'
down
known and
shown
Fig.
in
12
together
'L^f
'
folded lengthwise
is,
its
'glgggggj
With
that
fv-
neck
this length
its
center front
a, is
is
on
the dis-
hem
away from
allowance,
material.
Pin
to the material,
to pin the
back
neck edge, as at
b,
d,
is
desired, plus
and draw a
line
In determin-
down from
pattern, as shown,
the under
making the
12
17
23. Having proceeded thus f ar, cut out the material in the usual
way, slightly curving the lower edge toward the under arm and
allowing f-inch seams on all edges, so that the French seam may
be used in finishing.
If
it
you wish sleeves longer than the width of the material permits,
each one at its lower edge. For the
may
be provided as shown
and for the back part of the sleeves they may be cut as indicated
at /.
It may also be necessary to add narrow gores to the front of
the skirt, which may be cut as shown at g. The piecing is done in
the manner explained in connection with the sleeved apron.
The
bias binding to be used in constructing this apron is marked for
at
e,
cutting in the
24.
apron
No
;
manner shown
provision
is
neck
is
desired and
it is
made
is
to put the
garment on
out correctly.
it
it
neck of
this
to determine the
at h.
If a square
is fitted,
there
is
in fact,
never be cut
in front
if
pleasing
neck
line.
Before removing the kimono pattern, slash the material from the
neck line at the center back down to a point 4 inches below the waist
line so as to provide for the opening in the back.
25. Constructing the Garment. After removing the patfrom the material, finish the placket opening with a flat-stitched
placket, making it so that the right side will lap over the left.
Use
very narrow seams in putting the back finish on, so as to avoid too
much of a plait at the lower end. Next, French-seam the shoulder
seams, as well as the under-arm seams, and put the apron on. When
the apron is adjusted properly, turn a hem at the bottom and turn
the sleeve edges to the right so that they will assume a good line.
tern
26.
cutting
will give the proper neck line that is, so that it will not be too high
nor too low for comfort when the strips are securely pinned in
;
position.
18
Take
12
table to
make
sure
If
it,
for some-
may drop
little
lower than the other and not be noticeable until it is measured up.
As has been mentioned before, you will always do well to measure
applied in the
to
fitting
is
make
sure that
it
is
when trimming
this necessary
fitting.
Next, trim away the neck edge even with the upper edge of the bias
facing bind the neck edge with piping all the way around, as shown
;
rom
f,*?
*yf
~~
HP^-';';.;'-./ ,.;V
"''''
'
4\
JT\
.-
Fig. 13
at a, Fig. 13
and put on the bias band of the material, which has its
Then, turn the upper edge of the bias
the wrong side and baste it to the piping, as shown
band over
to
c,
taking care to
to the
12
way
around.
19
Then
the other piece of banding, right side up, and, turning under
edges, baste
it flat.
it
At
will
In this way,
all
the
raw edges
its
will be inside of
on the apron to see whether the facing fits corIt should be perfectly smooth and not appear
drawn in any place. Next, pin the belt across the back so as to
mark its position, placing a pin opposite the point where it comes at
the under arms, so that a button may be sewed to the seam at this
this stage, try
place.
With
28.
ing.
belt.
Have
on
even
and as near the edge of the band as possible, so that it will appear
neat.
Then, stitch the hem in and finish the apron by working
buttonholes and sewing on the required buttons.
Fig. 11 shows an attractive way in which to arrange the buttons
for a kimono apron.
Four groups of two buttons, making eight
buttons in all, are placed down the center back.
Of course, if you
desire, the buttons may be spaced evenly, and then four or five will
be
sufficient.
Next, sew a button at each side for the belt and work a buttonhole in each end of the belt, so that
When
it
may
be buttoned in position.
it is
advis-
[4]
20
12
aprons in
many
may
Such
woman's neatness and are
wardrobe
is
is
woman
really
the possessor of a
30.
31.
varied,
at the time
of the
selected
The
make them, you should
is
know how
to
is
always similar
way
in
which
it is
trimmed.
may
see, for
12
21
For dainty tea or sewing aprons, a pretty bow in the back not
only proves an attractive finish, but makes an apron appear a little
more dainty than if just a straight band is used. As a rule, the
material of which such aprons are
strip to be
made
is
So that the strings will tie well in the back, they should be made
from 21 to 3^ inches wide, the 2^-inch width being the one usually
mm
nil!
/
()
preferred.
Fig. 14
(6)
figure,
two
strings
bow
18 to 20 inches
to be tied at the
bow
will not
appear skimpy.
33.
Apron-String Finishes.
On
work aprons
it
is
per-
and thus save the time required for hemming, but for dainty aprons
the sides of the strings must be finished alike, with a rolled hem,
a hemstitched hem, or a machine-stitched hem.
It is never advisable to sew lace along the sides of apron strings, however, for in
22
12
it
on.
The ends
will
that
is,
bow
is tied.
(c)
end, however, either miter the lace at the point of the string, or
hold
it
very
full,
preferable, as
it
so that
it
will not
cup up.
mitered finish
is
The
it
may
shown
hem-stitch finish
good, and
is
especially
lace.
12
34.
apron
is
If the
apron
23
to be gathered to the
is
very
sheer, the gathering stitches should be small, so that the fulness will
lie
in plaits.
machine ruffler is used for such work, then the little plaits
formed by the ruffler will be evenly distributed in fact, they often
add to the neat appearance of the apron, whereas plaits in hand-run
However, there are generally few
gathers are rarely attractive.
gathers around the waist, as the fancy aprons themselves are so
If the
lit**
Fig. 16
it
is
when
finished
and only
long enough to extend 2 or 3 inches beyond each side of the gathered apron.
35.
To
notch the center of the apron at the waist line and then join
the center of the band, placing the right side of the band to the
side of the
it
it
from drawing
in
any
place.
it
to
wrong
apron
24
If lace
is
sewed
band
12
a,
Turn
Fig. 16.
may
it
be extended far
well.
rOINTED-PANEL APRON
36.
may
In Fig. 17
is
that
each of
its
apron
is
easy to
To
make
it is
work
itself
This
admirably to
always attractive.
insertion
is
panels of
As
is
and the
machine-made Valenciennes,
is
lace,
which
is
used to outline
37.
Fig. 17
Cutting-
For
manner
material, arrange
making
the apron, be careful to keep the center of each gore, the center of
each pocket, the strings, and the band on a lengthwise thread of the
material.
As
all
it is
a very easy
12
25
you
to be
is
allowed.
garment made of sheer material unless such seams and hems are
narrow hems
are always more attractive.
to be part of the trimming, for in all other cases the
38.
first
apron gore.
Next, join the insertion in
the seams by means of a rolled
hem or with the machine,
s.
hemmed
comes stretched
edge
put
in,
holding
If the lace
is
it
in the
Fig. 18
insertion
trifle full
so that
much
it
will not
is to
miter
draw
it
in
any
place.
at the points
and
fulness.
When
strings,
finish the
this
kind
VALENTINE APRON
39.
The
valentine apron,
shown
in Fig. 19, is
more
elaborate
may
26
40.
12
of
piece
method of making
much
will be
the
same.
If
you wish
to
procure a piece
apron,
paper 25 inches
of
shown
to that
it
will
Make
in Fig. 20.
its
down at
Make the
pocket heart-shaped at
downward toward
it
edge,
making
it
its
line.
the center at
its
upper
10 inches wide.
41.
To cut
it
shown
lengthwise
through
the
first
center,
as
material.
'
Fig. 19
seams in
hems are
cutting,
to be used in
and
if
may
it
over as at
b,
so
be placed on a fold.
^-inch seams.
first
12
27
the remaining sides of the pocket, rolling the edge of the material,
show
sheer,
if it is
the
finish
with rolled
pocket
hems so
it
advisable to
is
Fo d
i
" ~
Center Front
"
- -
7 /
no
raw edges
in Fig. 21.
show
to
through or to catch
the
that
lint
fre-
quently accumulates
and
the wearing
in
apron.
sew
Next,
Selvage
lace
Fig. 20
the apron and the bib, beginning at the waist line in each case and
continuing
way
the
all
around, as shown.
and across
No
front of this apron, but at each side the material should be held
trifle full
With
when
it is
this done,
whipped
to the beading.
beading, and then run ribbon through the beading and finish with a
tied
bow
at each end, so
the strings.
Put
the end of
each string
and
extend
lace at
up
it
doing
it
edge of the
rolled
the
apron,
work
so that
to
this
Fig. 21
many
things; so unless
danger of
its
enough not
to pull out.
A pocket as
large as this
one
it
being pulled
is
is
away from
the apron.
is
constant
28
12
MOTHER'S APRON
43.
In Fig. 22
shown an apron
is
many
haps
years in the
it
is
known, tends
that
is
known by
the
name
is
it
its
ruffle,
are partial to
which, as
it.
Per-
generally
is
to protect the
44.
ments.
To
Any
of these materials
to inexpensive gingham,
stiff to
used,
may
it,
be used.
which
ruffle.
preferable
is
is
If
gingham
little
too
is
it
For
this
other materials.
apron
is
down
pattern
may
and
Such a
the sides
be formed by outlining a
ruffle
of
45.
To
it
On
a.
Lay
on
the
ruffle,
23.
this
provided in the
in the
its
ruffle portion.
You may
across the fold and without the aid of a pattern, for the top of the
apron pattern
will
shape the
12
give
it
it
29
b,
to
pocket,
as shown.
of the material.
pattern
is
not
it
right.
in cutting
When
all
it
out
the pattern
46.
usual manner.
would
It
from
seem
the
is
all
finishing.
For
this
apron,
cut
rial
it
yards
of
if it is
plain
if
case,
dots.
cut
it
more
attractive finish
may
be had
if
other
30
from
this
opposite side.
Join the
ruffle to
12
ruffle to
of the ruffle at the center front of the apron, bringing the seam to
the right side, and adjusting the gathers evenly across the bottom.
wrong
its
top.
its
right side to
on the right
side.
With
come
raw edge
With
seam
that joins
way around
band
straight
the apron.
Last of
all,
all
put the
band
band
to the
wrong
way around
band and
the band.
ECONOMY APRON
strips
other
garment.
the
Fig. 24
It
consists
of
three
gores
that
are
sufficiently
49.
is
12
may
31
be employed.
It
requires
shown
gore, as
is
in Fig. 25.
The
and 5 inches
diagonal
line,
at its
there
is
Fig. 25
ing toward the waist line and reduces the fulness at that place, for
the wide parts of the gores form the lower edge of the apron, and
the narrow parts, the upper edge.
pattern a
trifle to
make
it fit
order to
make
Outline
it
50. Cutting- Out the Material. To cut out the material for
economy apron, place the pattern pieces on the material as
shown in Fig. 25. As the gores are shaped a trifle at the top, the
the
32
sicle-gore pattern part
may
12
Cut
really
in the
seam
lines.
51.
omy
apron,
first
In
hemming
its
hemmed
edges.
If
is
rack braid
the
that
manner
may
be sewed on in
Such work
is
is
by hand.
is,
rather tedious,
attractive
required.
To sew
take a stitch, as at
a,
by slipping
through the
b.
Then take a tiny overhand-stitch at this point
before proceeding to take the next stitch through the hem. Thus,
the braid, as at
By
two
stitches,
which
will
hem, all the stitches, except the tiny ones that join the braid to the
hem, will be neatly covered.
Another method of sewing on rickrack is to crease or baste a
narrow hem, then to place the rickrack over the right side of the
hem as directed for sewing it on by machine, and to secure it and at
the same time add a decorative touch with embroidery floss of contrasting color.
In using the embroidery floss, take overcasting- or
catch-stitches from just outside the indented portion of one scallop
12
33
to another
on the wrong
falls just
outside
from one
scallop
hem
in
the
^^
edge of the
manner shown
at
a,
\ 1|
^illHf
hem
if
you wish
to
have
the
side of the
|-
to
Secure the inner points of the rickrack all the way around, with the
stitching of the hem, as shown at b.
Do this work very carefully, so as
not to draw
it
it
-p(-
*
v
WMPS^j
,
,
well so that
Fig 27
'
'
Also, take
c,
seams in
stitching.
hem around
hemmed
edges.
Then
34
12
hem
the strings and finish one end of each with rickrack braid.
Before putting on the band, gather the waist line of the apron.
Then apply the band, adjust the strings in each end, and complete
the
apron by
stitching
the
band
in
position.
MAID'S APROIV
54.
apron.
In Fig. 28
It
is
appearance,
little
neat
is
shown a maid's
and
attractive
in
labor.
is
as nurse's lawn,
sometimes referred to
very satisfactory for
is
strings.
Two
12
35
the waist
measure, as
may
be secured to
it.
Two
strips should be
56.
In
provided for
the straps
this.
straightened as
much
as possible.
it
will be
more even adjustment of the gathers around the waist line and also
makes the ironing of the apron easier. Turn a hem 3^ to 5 inches
wide at one end of the apron piece and stitch it in position also,
;
of this strip, bringing the seams, in each case, to the right side.
Then
baste the other strip to the upper edge of the under strip, with the
At
bib between.
bib
is
Some
57.
make
line.
Make
button.
Two
fasten such a
it
the band
enough to
to
36
12
In Fig. 29
is
material.
In
as the
only
f yard of 40-inch lawn or dimity is needed for the apron, and 3 yards
of Maltese or Valenciennes lace edging for the trimming. This
apron has a big, roomy pocket that is substantially sewed in with
the seams, thus
little
fact,
59.
apron, a pattern
is
required.
For
Then
wide.
make
Mark
the lower
line
straight
across.
for the
make a
60.
separate pat-
Out
Cutting
the
ruffle.
Material.
In
Fig. 29
in Fig. 30.
To
ruffle,
from the
shown
fold, as
shown.
Cut the
band and the strings on the straight grain of the material, making the
band about 2 inches wide and 16 inches long and each of the strings,
2\ inches wide and 18 inches long.
61.
12
37
then join the side gores to the apron, finishing all of them with
French seams. Last of all, sew the lace on the outer edge in the
regular way, put the band
on,
and
SEWIXG-BAG APRO\
In Fig. 31
is
shown
is
known
62.
as
sewing-bag apron,
the
running
across
the
front
woman
is
for the
pocket,
sewing material; in
clean.
It
may
or
bag,
will
fact, the
Material Requirements.
63.
selvage edge
its
wide
is
64.
may
is
is
the
work
at
odd moments.
be utilized as a
finish.
first
If
hem
manner
With the
material
in Fig. 31,
38
12
hem and
beginning
continuing to
them from
pulling out.
drawn
up, as
shown
hem and
hem
or tuck
Where
the
Fig. 31
and strong.
Fig. 32
when
finished, they
Cut these pockets so that,
about 3 inches wide and 4 inches long.
will not be
more than
12
39
is
it
made
pocket, which
is
66.
as this
may
make such
is
and
it
has a large
If
you wish
to
then,
22
about
inches,
the
or
and from
curved
the
this point
line
to
draw a
a point on
center-back
line
or
inches
material.
Make
about 5
inches
deep
Fig. 33
and
it
as illustrated.
Make
band about 2 inches wide and 2 inches longer than the waist measurement, or simply cut a strip of material of these dimensions,
plus allowance for seams.
67.
With
them
man-
ner illustrated in Fig. 34, and then cut out the apron parts in the
usual manner. Also, cut 2\ yards of bias strip to finish the edge of
the apron and the top of the pocket, following the plan indicated
in the illustration.
40
it
12
Construct the apron by securing the apron part to the band, easing
on without gathers. Apply the bias binding to the top of the
pocket and around the outer edge of the apron, and join the pocket
apron with two rows of stitching, placing these
Fig. 34
first
CLOTHES-PBf APRON
68.
While
In Fig. 35
is
must be admitted
it
woman
in the
will
be interested
purpose
home, for they serve to keep clothes pins clean and always
have a
definite
in place.
The
style of clothes-pin
apron here
illustrated
Because of
also
its
it
09.
its
durability
Material Requirements.
To
Of
may
must be
is
is
it
be used,
as, for
substantial, for
example,
when
the
material,
may
well be used.
12
41
70.
as this
By
reference
to
Fig.
36,
you
will
made
shaped at the
manner
in
which
it is
sides.
To make
the apron,
first
all
then
Put a
straight
band
it
be subjected.
If you want a pocket with two compartments, you
will
Fig. 35
may
place a
Fold
Fig. 36
row of
stitching
down
42
12
the country,
73.
the
and
must be starched,
as,
or a sun hat.
CIRCULAR-RUFFLE SUNBONNET
74. In Fig. 37 (a) and (&) are shown the front and the side
view of a sunbonnet that, because of its circular ruffle, may be
called the circular-ruffle sunbonnet.
This bonnet is perhaps as
practical as
tect
any
style of
sunbonnet can
a sunbonnet
is
is
it
be.
its
It is
made
head-piece
is
so as to pro-
so curved that
If the head-piece of
much
discomfort.
is
the crown, and the strings being ornamented with linen torchon
12
43
sunbonnet
this
of laundering.
and
Material
75.
circular-ruffle
Pattern
Requirements.
For
the
sunbonnet
regulation
Such patterns
rial.
usually
made
average
size.
an
head
If the
be
made
is
may
material to be used
itself
from |
to
way
the
is
may
be cut
inch smaller
around.
if
On
the head
extremely large or
fluffy,
be
seam allow-
hair
to
necessary, the
if
pattern
all
is
are
only
in
if
the
Fig. 37
and
then a generous seam allowance may be made.
dressed
is
a general
full
is
However, as
it
may
be used as a founda-
76.
must be provided.
sunbonnet
is
interlining
cut out.
44
The
is
that obtained
worn
past mending.
If
12
an old
is,
is
the
starched
material
For
is old,
there
stiffening,
provided
it is
is little
is
it;
danger.
fairly
heavy;
purpose
if it is
better.
Fig. 38
it
possible
to
get a perfectly
straight
all
piece
Also,
the pattern
Mix
is
which
when
of material,
make
may
be trimmed away
is,
stiff
cuffs or
If
little bit
easier, as
the material prepared and the starch made, dip the pieces
for the head-piece into the starch and then stretch them out smooth,
With
12
45
placing one piece on top of the other and taking care that not a
The
iron.
Then
them
iron
to stick together
sunbonnet, lay
to
Cutting-
77.
lengthwise, the
it
Have
material.
make
make a
it
head-piece
fold of the
along the
in the ruffle,
the
Place
its
seam
kind without a
by chance, you have to piece
the ruffle, roll and whip the edges together very carefully so that the seam
seam.
will
finish of this
If,
show
78.
as
Four
little
as possible.
make a bow,
and two for tying the bonnet on. Make
them about 2f inches wide and IS inches
long, and cut them on the straight grain
Measure up
sary where a very narrow hem is used as a finish.
4 inches on each side of the crown from its lower edge and connect
these points with a traced line to mark the position of the casing
that extends across the back.
the head-piece,
making
it
46
12
with a rolled
hem
the lace.
or with a tiny
hem and
the head-piece.
place
Next,
wrong
the
the
or
to
entire
head-piece
covered
with
is
basting-
Then
with
this,
its
center
front
of
the
all
and baste
the way around in
|-inch
head-piece,
shown
seam,
Fig. 40
ing
gathers adjusted
evenly.
When
this
basting
care
is
When
the stitching
is
way around,
as
done,
ruffle
have the
place
the
and baste
as shown.
12
47
81.
it
With
ruffle at
any
ruffle
and
place.
it
Then pin
make
these lines on the material, taking care to keep each line as true
and as even as
rial directly in
With
possible.
if
mate-
you are
82.
When
the head-piece
is
stitched,
or quilted, begin at
as
shown
its
in
and mark for the snap fasteners with pins, using the crossof the Picken dressmaker's gauge as a marker, so that they
Fig. 41,
slots
will
has the
fasteners in place,
With
the bonnet.
it
on both
sides, so that
it
Next, place a similar casing over the traced line near the bottom
part of the crown, which determines where the ruffle part begins.
In stitching this casing on, take care to start it just back of the casing
around the crown, so that the cord that slips through it
that goes
the
The cord
crown
for this
48
12
it
the fulness as
top of the
Fig. 41
With
mark
the posi-
sew them
on the
in place.
In sewing the snap fasteners on the crown, take care not to catch
the stitches through the cord in the casing, for this
impossible to
the bonnet
draw the
is
shirring cords
laundered.
The ends
if
up and
of
the
to let
would make it
them out when
There-
fore,
if
you
desire,
12
83.
Make two
in the unfinished
49
tiny plaits
more than
1 inch wide
place
them
above the bottom of the ruffle and sew them on so that when
they are laid back and tied the seam joining will be concealed.
Proceed, next, to sew in place the strings with which to tie the
just
bonnet on,
just
first
where the
If the bonnet
is
to be tied, put
the bonnet
is
worn.
In rare instances,
is
sunbonnet on.
84.
If
wear
it;
it,
it
to
will not
make
it
for
SISBOSNET VARIATIONS
85.
The sunbonnet
in sheer white
shaped
ruffle.
circular-ruffle
shaped
ruffle,
just described
is
ruffle instead
of a
great.
Another
style of dress-up
sunbonnet
may
be developed by using
dotted Swiss for the crown and strings and sheer muslin for the
This style
may
be made
effect.
86. Women who desire a bonnet merely for service will find a
good quality of Japanese straw matting, sometimes called tea strazv,
This material may be purchased
satisfactory for making bonnets.
Sometimes, plain
in nearly all stores that sell dry goods or carpets.
tea straw such as is used in wrapping chests of tea can be obtained
Only ^ yard is required fof
free of charge in tea or grocery stores.
the head-piece of a sunbonnet.
50
12
for
it
quite
is
In making this kind of bonnet, place the matting over one thickness
of the bonnet material and then stitch across two or three times
merely to hold the pieces together. Turn up over the matting the
edge of the underneath piece of the head-piece, and then sew a
ruffle to the head-piece with a heading just large enough to cover
the
raw seam of
is
turned over.
If
omit the casing around the crown and finish the edge with a narrow
hem
in this case
crown and
stitch
it
SUN
87.
In Fig. 42
HAT
is
shown a covering
it
a sun
Its
and
attractive,
it
tial, this
88.
this hat
is
make and
to
absolutely essen-
bonnet, and as
it is
of a style that
is
splendid for
little
folks,
it
may
12
51
For cutting out this hat, provide a pattern having a crown portion
shaped to give the effect shown in Fig. 42 and a head-size, or brim
portion, that will give a drooping effect.
89.
In preparing the
stiffening for
of a hat
made
Put the
ruffle
on the
edge of the
ruffle is perfectly-
When the ruffle is in position and the head-piece has been basted
from the right side, proceed to mark for any style of quilting you
desire by placing a marked pattern on the brim and tracing off the
pattern.
When
the quilting
is
finished,
crown and baste it to the head-piece, basting inch from the edge.
Bind this edge of the crown and head-piece together with bias binding of light-weight lawn or muslin, taking care to trim the seam
off close, so that it will not appear bunchy or show through too
much from the right side.
Next, bind or face the lower edge of the crown part of the hat
with ^-inch bias binding and bind the unfinished ends of the headpiece.
Work buttonholes on its right-hand side, one buttonhole at
the top and one at the bottom, and sew buttons on the left-hand
side of the head-piece to correspond with the buttonholes on the
right-hand side, so that the crown of the hat may be opened up in
laundering.
The
difficult to make, because the headhowever, if you sew around each buttonhole with the
sewing machine before you work the buttonhole you will not have
to put the buttonhole stitches close together.
Next, work four buttonholes in the right-hand side of the crown,
and then on the left sew three buttons to correspond with the first
piece
is stiff;
When
down over
Y-shaped
effect.
(1)
aprons?
What
Why
(&)
(6)
What
is
the
(4)
(5)
Why
Why
is
is it
What
making a
(8)
(9)
(10)
is
What
an apron?
(a) In stitching in the insertion in an apron like the pointed-panel
(11)
should lace be held full or
apron, of what must one be careful?
(&)
mitered at the points in making a pointed-panel apron?
Why
(12)
(a)
Why
is it
(b)
Why
is
it
(13)
machine?
What
(&) by
hand?
is
Why
is
it
such an interlining?
(15)
How
12
CONTENTS
House Aprons and Caps
Bodice Apron
11
12
Kimono Apron
14
20
Mother's Apron
28
Economy Apron
.
25
32
34
36
37
39
Apron
Sunbonnets and Sun Hats
40
Clothes-Pin
Circular-Ruffle Sunbonnet
Sun Hat
24
30
Sewing on Rkkrack
Maid's Apron
Square Sewing Apron
Sewing-Bag Apron
Circular Sewing Apron
Sunbonnet Variations
21
-:
Styles
and Materials
42
42
49
.50
Bl
m
*!T'.
2P