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Dreaming in Colour
The new love affair with
coloured gemstones
The
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What e ar afte
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Design Made Easy
Your step-by-step guide
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Be Prepared
Examining the risks that
Gerry Gilroy from Edmonton’s
could affect your business
Independent Jewellers
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
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Take an online tour at www.countersketchstudio.com/tour S T R A T E G I C P A R T N E R S
Certificate
RappaporT
Symmetry
Stock #
Clarity
Colour
Weight
Polish
Shape
Depth
Table
Make
10 3.01 RBC D INF 9.12X9.18X5.75 62.8 58 VG VG NONE -30% HW VG
176A 1.02 RBC D VS1 6.45X6.52X3.93 60.6 59.3 EX VG NONE -35% HW EX
76C 1.50 RBC D SI1 7.25X7.18X4.42 61.1 56.4 G G NONE -40% HW G
917 4.00 PRSH D SI1 14.02X9.02X5.49 61.3 54.3 VG VG NONE -30% HW VG
1E 5.05 RBC D SI1 10.95X11.03X6.80 62.7 56.6 VG VG NONE -25% HW VG
76B 1.51 RBC E VS1 7.32X7.38X4.47 60.7 58 VG VG NONE -35% HW VG
5A 4.23 RBC E SI2 10.39X10.45X6.40 62.2 52.5 EX VG NONE -35% HW EX
711 1.30 PC E I1 6.09X6.09X4.24 70 69 EX VG NONE -25% HW EX
721A 1.06 PC F VVS1 5.72X5.72X3.97 69.6 74.4 VG VG NONE -30% HW VG
696E 1.50 PC F VVS2 6.17X6.19X4.67 75.6 75.6 VG VG NONE -30% HW VG
194A 1.02 RBC F VVS2 6.35X6.44X4.03 62.9 56.8 EX VG NONE -30% HW EX
26 2.01 RBC F VS2 7.93X8.00X4.96 62.2 60 G G NONE -40% HW G
712 1.29 PC F SI1 5.89X5.92X4.23 72.1 65.7 EX VG NONE -20% HW EX
690B 2.09 CUSH G VVS2 7.64X7.38X4.48 60.7 61.9 VG VG NONE -35% HW VG
31 2.01 RBC G VS1 8.15X8.25X4.80 58.3 59.9 VG VG NONE -20% HW VG
31A 2.00 RBC G SI1 8.01X7.92X4.97 62.2 61.2 G G NONE -35% HW G
11A 3.03 RBC G SI1 9.32X9.35X5.67 61.2 59.2 G VG NONE -20% HW VG
5 4.01 RBC H I1 10.20X10.27X6.00 59 61.8 VG VG NONE -40% HW VG
679 5.01 RAD I SI1 9.80X9.71X6.68 62.7 56.6 VG VG NONE -35% HW VG
924D+1 2.02 PRSH D SI2 11.2X6.68X4.64 70.3 57.8 G G NONE -35% HW G
To add your name to our mailing list please forward your request to sales@sapirdiamonds.com
55 Queen St. E. Suite 501, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6
Radiant Stone Phone: 416-863-6036/7 Toll Free: 1-866-387-1759 Fax: 416-863-0671 Round Stone
5.01 ct www.SapirDiamonds.com 5.05 ct
SI1, I, VG marks@sapirdiamonds.com keith@sapirdiamonds.com SI1, D, VG
For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 81
CJdec09_Siffari_Ad.indd 1
Established 1879 DECEMBER 2009 • vol. 130, no. 7
Reg Shah Guest Editor
Olivier Felicio President, Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com
Carol Besler Editorial Consultant
Danielle Ng-See-Quan Editorial Assistant | danielle@rivegauchemedia.com
Subha Arulvarathan Editorial Intern | intern@rivegauchemedia.com
Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com
Leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Jordan Martinez Production Manager | jordan@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com
Daniel Hare Administration Coordinator | dan@rivegauchemedia.com
44 Dreaming in Colour
Female shoppers are in love with the new trends
in coloured gemstones.
50 Be Prepared
Continuing our finance series, we examine what risks
could affect your operations.
52 Recessionary Retailing
A year later we ask retailers across Canada about
business and what they’re doing to keep spirits high.
38
10 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Departments
14 Letter from the Guest Editor
16 Product Showcase
30 Market Watch
82 Last Word
34 Face Value
The tricky part of gem weights.
48 Company Profile
Eternal Diamonds.
63 Designer Profile 68
M. Sturman.
12 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
silent night
...MAKE THEM
UNFORGETTABLE
DESIGN YOUR UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS WITH PANDORA’S CHARMS, RINGS, NECKLACES, AND EARRINGS IN STERLING SILVER AND 14K GOLD. PRICES FROM $30.
PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM
U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • © • All rights reserved • PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 81
Reg Shah
Reg Shah
Guest Editor
Michael Anthony Jewellers, Edmonton, Alberta
14 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
GEE‘N GEE
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collection by PANDORA. Inspired by waves, drops, and fluid lines, high standards and passion, guarantees high quality luxury
the new Liquid Silver collection of rings, earrings, bracelets, and jewellery delivered across Canada. All gold is imported from the
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only available at PANDORA stores and Shop-in-Shops. For more unsurpassed gold distributor, JOMARK. For more information,
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16 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Individual Expression
For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry
JSN Diamonds Sparkle leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate
JSN is one of Canada’s leading jewellery manufacturers with an symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic
arsenal of five brands that range from entry-level product to a fully- eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an
certified premium Canadian diamond line. With offices in Canada, Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced
the United Kingdom and the United States, along with a plant in is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools
Bangkok, Thailand, JSN has achieved a high level of recognition on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring
on the international stage. For more information, write 134 on the leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more
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18 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
www.atlanticengraving.com
1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4
Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca
For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 81
20 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
community in general has lost one its most for charity. The pair hopes to raise money [ECOSOC] of the United Nations [UN] in 2006
dedicated public servants.” Mosbacher for kids suffering from a rare genetic skin and our commitment on behalf of the worldwide
continued, “We are all poorer for it. condition called epidermolysis bullosa (EB). jewelry industry to the fulfilment of the UN’s
Above all, Jacob was an advocate for Inspired to act when a friend’s child was Millennium Development Goals.” The CIBJO
the DDC membership, and a man who born with EB, the Arquettes teamed up with president had also discussed the program that
instinctively understood the point of view founders Beth and Satya to create the Satya the World Jewellery Confederation Education
of the individual. Our hearts go out to EB Charity Collection. All of proceeds from Foundation (WJCEF), a body of CIBJO, had
his family at this difficult time.” Banda is the sale of this butterfly motif jewellery created in 2008 with the support of the UN to
survived by his wife, Goldie, 10 children collection will help fund treatment and advance the international jewellery community’s
and 40 grandchildren. research for EB sufferers. knowledge of CSR principles and practices. [CJ]
22 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
11/27/09 3:19:32 PM
news | trends | events
Improvements Made based publication. Recently, significant research tool when researching “like kind”
to the AMR Website improvements were made to the site, jewellery items.
Auction Market Resource is a comprehensive including an expanded Hallmarks database,
source of buying, selling, researching or which will have relevant historical facts DeLafee International Launches
appraising information for professionals attached to the more than 450 hallmarks, Edible Silver Creations
in the jewellery industry, with data trademarks and signatures currently in Following its success of luxury creations made
collected from more than 48 national and the database. One new feature is the ability with edible gold, Swiss company DeLafee
international auction galleries. Gail Brett for users to compare jewellery items with International has launched a line of gourmet
Levine, who is also currently the Executive overlapping data screens, which, according products made with edible silver. The products
Director of NAJA, created the subscription- to statement from the AMR, is a helpful include luxury gifts like chocolate truffles,
lollipops green flowering tea and cigars, all
with edible silver or silver flakes. The idea
behind the creations, according to DeLafee,
is that the pairing of epicurean products
with the aesthetic qualities of gold and silver
creates a luxurious and unique gift — for the
holidays, or any time of year.
24 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
CJA Pens Professional and provides a networking experience light jewellery manufacturing, including
Conduct Standards for American jewellery appraisers. A pre- diamond cutting and polishing. Additionally,
The Canadian Jewellers Association announced conference program of Advanced Gemology Extell has applied to the U.S. Foreign Trade
the creation of a “Standards of Professional — Diamonds, and Advance Gemology Zones board for the tower to be designated
Conduct” document by the Ethics Committee. — Coloured Stones, will be presented on as a foreign trade zone (FTZ). Extell Senior
The document outlines what CJA members January 30. Vice President Raizy Haas says, “Our
should abide by in key areas including goal is to secure preferred insurance rates
appraisals; diamonds, gemstones and pearls; International Gem Tower Developers for companies who purchase units in the
and business and marketing practices. CJA Present to Lloyd’s of London International Gem Tower and, in our view,
members are expected to abide by and A senior team from Extell Development an open dialogue with the insurance industry
support the constitution and objectives of the Company, developer of the International Gem about our security infrastructure and
Canadian Jewellers Association. including Tower — a 34-story trade tower to be built program is the best way to confirm that the
Code of Ethics and the CJA Standards of in New York’s Diamond District — made international Gem Tower will be the premier
Professional Conduct. a presentation to 25 Lloyd’s of London and diamond building in the U.S. in terms of
European jewellery insurance underwriters location and security.” Added Laurence
NAJA Announces 33rd Annual for the underwriters to learn how the tower Molloy, Deputy Managing Director of Willis
Winter ACE It Education Conference will provide an opportunity to offer clients London’s Fine Arts, Jewellery and Specie team
The National Association of Jewellery preferred insurance rates that reflect the (which hosted the presentation), “It is very
Appraisers (NAJA) will hold its ACE advanced security planned for the building. unusual for such an open dialogue to happen
(Appraisers Continuing Education) It The tower will be the only commercial between developers and insurers before a
Conference in Tucson, AZ, from January condominium designed specifically for the building is complete and for insurers to have
31 to February 1. The program assists in the gem and jewellery trade, and is anticipated input on vital issues such as security can only
professional appraiser’s continuing education to include an exchange floor and permit help the success of the project.”
Manufacturers of
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Thomas Sabo Opens First Stand-Alone Canadian Eisinger Canada
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Thomas Sabo (the Bavaria-based 1980’s brainchild of BE SURE TO ASK
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jewellery enthusiast Thomas Sabo) has opened its first THESE EXCITING PRODUCTS:
Canadian stand-alone store in Rosmere, Quebec, and
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 25
COLOUR CATALOGUE
ANALYSIS SYSTEM
S I S S YS
A LY TE
AN M
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ISS
AN A LYSI S
For details, write #116 on Free Info Page, page 81
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26 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Mover modules, has hand-stitched Italian Anvil Mining Ltd. AVM TSX $2.800 $3.010 7.50% $3.280 $0.450 $8.8 N/A 307.00
Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $40.540 $41.970 3.53% $49.870 $23.790 $2,102.0 N/A 41,255.00
leather and carbon with a Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $35.210 $36.740 4.35% $39.900 $11.090 $198.1 28.9 9,348.00
laquer finish. Eastern Platinum ELR TSX $0.580 $0.810 39.66% $0.870 $0.185 $29.6 N/A 551.00
Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $12.160 $12.970 6.66% $13.090 $4.550 $83.0 24.1 5,190.00
Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $3.460 $3.720 7.51% $4.220 $0.960 $112.4 26.36 2,602.00
Panamian President Pledges to First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $70.000 $73.010 4.30% $79.400 $12.750 $377.0 N/A 5,711.00
Fast-track Legislation to Create FNX Mining Co. FNX TSX $9.380 $10.250 9.28% $12.580 $2.000 $65.3 N/A 892.00
Fortune Valley Resources FVX TSX-V $0.080 $0.200 150.00% $0.220 $0.005 N/A N/A 6.00
Diamond Free Trade Zone Gammon Gold GAM TSX $9.160 $9.630 5.13% $10.820 $2.680 $50.9 91.6 1,189.00
Following a meeting of the world leaders Gold Fields GFI NYSE $13.780 $14.010 1.67% $15.240 $5.130 $902.2 54.42 9,868.00
in the diamond industry in early October, Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $42.980 $42.960 -0.05% $46.450 $21.870 $632.7 19.02 31,422.00
Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $15.130 $16.120 6.54% $16.970 $3.500 $263.9 570.78 5,919.00
Panama president Ricardo Martinelli International Royalty IRC TSX $4.320 $4.360 0.93% $4.850 $1.300 $6.1 N/A 342.00
informed leaders of the Panama Diamond Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $13.760 $11.870 -13.74% $14.450 $2.060 $37.8 N/A 4,488.00
Kinross Gold K TSX $23.330 $19.360 -17.02% $25.220 $12.600 $592.8 N/A 13,452.00
Exchange (PDE) that he would initiate a Lundin Mining LUN TSX $3.610 $4.280 18.56% $4.770 $0.690 $192.1 N/A 2,481.00
session with Panama’s National Assembly to Newmont Mining NMC TSX $47.000 $49.570 5.47% $59.600 $27.250 $1,602.0 23.18 22,263.00
complete legislation granting free zone status NovaGold Resources NG TSX $5.500 $5.310 -3.45% $6.460 $0.475 $0.4 N/A 980.00
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $24.580 $24.500 -0.33% $27.420 $11.120 $113.8 N/A 2,137.00
to the diamond exchange area. Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $12.030 $14.980 24.52% $14.640 $3.520 $82.1 36.18 3,448.00
Silver Standard Resources SSO TSX $23.080 $21.490 -6.89% $27.690 $8.370 $5.7 N/A 1,477.00
IDI Launches DGM Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $13.590 $14.810 8.98% $14.450 $3.070 $48.4 80.12 4,612.00
Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $29.500 $31.380 6.37% $35.750 $3.350 $2,524.0 21.33 18,473.00
The portal site of the Israel Diamond Institute Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $11.520 $12.540 8.85% $13.110 $4.470 $274.8 16.88 9,194.00
Group of Companies (IDI) has launched GemStones
the Diamond and Gemstones of the Month Anglo American PLC AAUKY OTC $15.880 $18.700 17.76% $19.840 $6.210 N/A 11.99 49,240.00
section, which will feature diamond jewellery Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.100 $0.135 35.00% $0.150 $0.050 N/A 6 11.00
based on the stones that correspond to BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $66.010 $66.590 0.88% $74.980 $24.530 N/A 31.51 111,817.00
Diamcor Mining DMI TSX-V $0.220 $0.230 4.55% $0.380 $0.130 N/A N/A 2.00
the months of the year. The portal invites Diamond Fields Intl. DFI TSX $0.100 $0.075 -25.00% $0.150 $0.025 $0.4 N/A 4.00
designers worldwide to design a set of Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.165 $0.320 93.94% $0.415 $0.100 N/A 62.38 24.00
jewellery pieces that combine the gemstone Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.165 $0.170 3.03% $0.250 $0.050 N/A N/A 6.00
Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $9.050 $9.720 7.40% $12.680 $2.190 $107.6 N/A 744.00
of the month with diamonds, and each Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $2.680 $2.680 0.00% $3.490 $0.730 N/A N/A 171.00
month the IDI will feature designs of three Moydow Mines Intl. Inc. MOY TSX $0.170 $0.365 114.71% $0.380 $0.050 N/A N/A 22.00
New Nadina Expls Ltd. NNA TSX-V $0.065 $0.060 -7.69% $0.200 $0.045 N/A N/A 2.00
sets of jewellery that include the gemstone Rio Tinto RTP NYSE $170.290 $185.720 9.06% $259.700 $59.200 N/A N/A 46,291.00
of the month. Designers may submit designs Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.090 $0.115 27.78% $0.290 $0.040 N/A N/A 7.00
created by hand or computer, and they must Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.080 $0.070 -12.50% $0.145 $0.035 N/A 8 5.00
Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.145 $0.095 -34.48% $0.320 $0.070 N/A N/A 32.00
only be designed, not produced. This is a Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.190 $0.315 65.79% $0.370 $0.055 N/A N/A 83.00
joint project of the IDI portal and the Harry
For details, write #116 on Free Info Page, page 81
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.135 $0.100 -25.93% $0.215 $0.050 N/A N/A 7.00
Oppenheimer Diamond Museum in Ramat Western Standard Metals WSM TSX-V $0.370 $0.445 20.27% $0.495 $0.050 N/A N/A 2.00
Kassif. Says Kassif, “The IDI portal wishes Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $28.450 $27.480 -3.41% $30.850 $11.000 $315.9 15.56 1,831.00
Sears Canada SCC TSX $21.250 $22.230 4.61% $24.480 $15.370 $1,250.0 10.69 2,400.00
to take a different approach to [gemstones of Signet Group SIG NYSE $26.330 $26.040 -1.10% $28.840 $5.910 $762.6 N/A 2,542.00
the month], and rather than just publishing Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $38.530 $40.280 4.54% $42.620 $16.700 $612.5 21.35 4,992.00
Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $49.090 $49.900 1.65% $59.230 $46.250 $100,910.0 14.57 194,441.00
information about gemstones of the month Zale Corporation ZLC NYSE $7.150 $5.020 -29.79% $17.130 $0.890 $379.1 N/A 161.00
has added a creative twist. We believe
Commodities
this will encourage jewellery designs that
Gold COMX $1,082.800
incorporate the gemstones and diamonds, Silver COMX $17.115
and that it will bring increased traffic to the Platinum NYME $1,353.000
*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 27
Galway Shareholders Approve Kinross Reduces 2009 Forecast Goldcorp Acquires Canplats
Rights Plan Canada’s third-largest gold producer Kinross Goldcorp Inc. is set to acquire Canplats
The shareholders of Galway Resources almost Gold Corp. has reduced its 2009 production Resources Corp. for about $238 million with
unanimously approved a shareholders rights forecast to 2.2 million ounces from 2.4 to 2.5 the intention of creating satellite mines
plan, typically used as a preventative measure million ounces, citing that its Brazilian plant around its Penasquito gold project in Mexico.
against hostile takeover bids. In a statement, was not meeting its production targets due The Canadian-based miner plans to acquire
the Nevada-based gold and coal explorer to ongoing problems at its Paracatu mine. all of Canplats’ outstanding shares with the
company announced that 99.96% of its The company also announced that the cost intention of creating a new gold-exploration
shareholders voted in favour of adopting the of sales per ounce would vary from $435 to company, with the exception of the Camino
proposed plan in August of this year, which $450, as opposed to its January forecast of Rojo project, located 50km southeast of
will allow shareholders time to consider $390 to $420 per ounce. Stocks of Kinross Penasquito mine. In regards to the promising
competing bids when faced with the threat went down by $1.35 to $20.30 on the TSX results of Camino Rojo, Goldcorp’s Chief
of a potential takeover. Galway’s major as a result. Executive Officer Chuck Jeannes explains
asset is a gold exploration property adjacent in a statement, “Along with the steady
to Vancouver-based Ventana Gold’s La Strike Equals Net Profit Loss advancement of our Noche Buena project
Bodega property in northern Colombia. La for Vale Inco located north of Penasquito, we can envision
Bodega has showed a lot of promise, yielding The strike at Vale Inco’s Sudbury and Voisey a potential network of low-cost satellite
high-grade results in the past few months. Bay sites has led to a reduction in company operations that would contribute significantly
Galway expects to see similar results and production and net profits. The Brazilian to Penasquito production over the long
has announced its intention to drill on the miner’s nickel output dropped 22.45%, term.” While the Board of Directors of both
property by the end of the year. copper output by 28.1%, cobalt production companies have agreed upon the deal, two-
by 29.2% and iron ore by 30%. Vale reported thirds of Canplats’ outstanding shares need to
Chisel North Mine Restarts net profits of $3.8 million for the first nine vote in favour of the offer for it go through.
HudBay Minerals Inc. restarted its Chisel months of 2009, as opposed to US$11 million
North mine in Manitoba with the intention in 2008, and 2009 third-quarter net earnings Setllar Intends to Acquire
of achieving full production by the end of of $1.7 billion, as opposed to $4.8 billion the New Property
the second quarter. The Canadian company same last year. Workers at Vale Inco mining Stellar Pacific Ventures Inc. has put pen to
predicts that it will cost approximately $7 and refining operations went on strike in July paper by issuing a letter of intent to acquire
million to restart operations at the mine, 2009 when the United Steelworkers and the Property 325, which is adjacent to the
which will provide approximately 30,000 of company could not reach an agreement on a company’s Monster Lake Property. The
zinc concentrate annually to its Flin Flon new labour contract. The two sides continue property in question consists of two separate
plant. HudBay Minerals had originally shut to remain far apart in discussion talks. blocks — coming out to 36 mining cells in
down Chisel North mine and Snow Lake total — which covers Rale Township located
concentrator for care and maintenance in lieu Canadian Shareholders Sue in Northern Quebec and the Chibougamau
of the depressed price of zinc. NovaGold for $100 million Mining Camp 50 km southwest of the town
NovaGold Resources Inc. is facing a lawsuit of Chibougamau. Property 325 is considered
One Dead, Two Missing Suspends in which Canadian shareholders are seeking an important addition to Stellar’s Monster
Operation at Bachelor Lake Mine more than $100 million in damages for Lake Property, which has produced over 1.2
Gold producer Metanor Resources Inc. had to allegedly misrepresenting the true cost of the million ounces of gold since 1956.
suspend operations at its Bachelor Lake mine company’s Galore Creek copper-gold project
in Quebec after an accident left one dead, and in British Columbia. This current lawsuit Inmet Names New CEO
two people missing. In a company statement, contains allegations similar to a previous U.S. Inmet Mining Corp. has appointed Chief
it was noted the base lost contact with the shareholder action, which was filed on behalf Operating Officer and President Jochen Tilk
workers late on October 30 when the gold mine of Canadian investors who bought company to replace Chief Executive Officer Richard
flooded. One man was subsequently found shares over a 15-month period that ranged Ross. The Toronto-based copper and zinc
dead, while rescue operations are ongoing to from October 2006 to January 2008. The company announced that this was a “plan
find the other two workers. Metanor acquired lawsuit also cited the consulting firm that of executive succession, which has been in
50% of the Bachelor Lake property in 2004 gave the go-ahead to build the now-stalled development over the last several years.”
from Campbell Resources and acquired the mine for about $1.8 billion. A statement This comes on the heels of the termination
other half in 2006 from Halo Resources. The released explains, “Such claims allowed of Inmet’s talks to sell a minority stake to an
company plans to restart operations at the NovaGold to raise hundreds of millions of unidentified party backed by Korea Resources.
Bachelor Lake mine in mid-2010. At print dollars in the capital markets.” Galore Creek Ross, who has been chairman for 10 years, will
time, it’s unclear how this accident might is now a joint venture with Teck Resources leave his post at the end of December in order
affect timetable and production targets. Ltd., which became a partner in 2007. to facilitate the transition. [CJ]
28 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
The
Countdown
A special round-up of the top
100 categories shopped by
consumers in 2009.
BY ROBIN G AMBHIR
W
hile Holiday 2009 seems an uncertain proposition, talk of they were looking for because the Top 100 jewellery items is, as it turns
recovery and the so-called “green shoots” of economic growth out, dominated by bridal and engagement. Last year the number-one
are all around. When consumers begin to feel optimistic, item was a white gold engagement set, but this year it’s a yellow gold
jewellers can breathe a collective sigh of relief. trinity ring, which is interesting if only because it marks an increased
interest in yellow gold after many years of white gold dominance. Also
Fortunately, jewellers running OpenBlue powered sites fared well in notable is the interest in Canadian diamonds. Last year, engagement
2009. The network saw traffic of almost 120,000 consumers in the past rings made with Canadian diamonds took 48th place, but this year it
12 months, registering its first drop (of about 6%) since it began. We has rocketed up to the 13th position — suggesting an increased interest
gather our statistics from our national network of retailers’ sites. Every in country of origin. Elsewhere we have included the top watch styles,
time a consumer connects to one of the retailers who are running our some data from searches consumers conducted for loose diamonds
soft ware, everything the consumer clicks on is recorded and fed back to and a new lists for clocks and gift ware. Clocks and gift ware are lines
both the retailer and the suppliers. This is done on a weekly basis. Those that jewellers have traditionally carried, though some have eschewed
120,000 consumers clicked on preferred categories over 360,000 times. them in the past few years.
Specific data is aggregated in our database and published exclusively in
Canadian Jeweller magazine. For an informative example of this power, Economic challenges have led jewellers to look for branded items that
you can watch consumers shopping the network of retail sites by going have protected margins and national advertising to support them.
to openbluelive.com. Th is trend did not go unnoticed at OpenBlue. Th is fall, we launched
OpenBlue SmartSites (www.bit.ly/smartsites), which include support
Over the years, we’ve taken it as read that engagement rings would for branded jewellery as well as vendor catalogs and banner ads. As the
top the list of categories, and especially this year when the industry industry continues to adapt, Canadian Jeweller will be at the forefront,
refocused on bridal. Indeed, last year a mixture of engagement ring reporting the latest trends and developments as they occur. We invite
categories did dominate the fi rst three positions of our list. But in you to subscribe to our newsletter, watch for day-to-day developments
2009, many consumers looked at diamond pendants, making this on our site and follow us on Twitter @cjmagazine and by using
category the most popular. But consumers may not have found what canadianjeweller.com. [CJ]
30 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
32 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Rank 1 Rank 9
Trinity Ring Blue and White Diamond Solitaire
Model 32103 Model 677
category: Engagement Rings: Trinity Rings category: Diamond Jewellery: Rings: Gold
Supplier: Libman Supplier: T&T
Rank 2 Rank 10
Diamond Dinner Ring Model SGI-2677
Model 32126 category: Engagement Rings: Solitaires
category: Right-Hand Rings: Supplier: Sun Gems-HRA
Diamond Rings
Supplier: Libman Rank 11
Engagement Ring
Rank 3 Model MN31D
Edward Mirell Tension-Set Diamond Ring category: Engagement Rings: Solitaires
Model R002B-D Supplier: Cadman Manufacturing
category: Brands:Edward Mirell: Rings
Supplier: Intermerge Canada Inc. Rank 12
Classic Solitaire Canadian Diamond Ring
Rank 4 Model PI-2155
Model R90B45LW-P category: Engagement Rings: Solitaires
category: Diamond Jewellery: Rings: Supplier: Basal Jewellery
Platinum
Supplier: Corona Jewellery Rank 13
Forever Ring
Rank 5 Model F2592
Princess-Cut Engagement Set category: Rings
Model B3054WD Supplier: Cadman Manufacturing
category: Engagement Rings:
Engagement Sets Rank 14
Supplier: Libman Model A6060-2WBOR
category: Diamond Jewellery:
Rank 6 Promise Rings
Ladies Stone Set Ring Supplier: BB Impex
Model 2285D
category: Rings Rank 15
Supplier: Cadman Manufacturing Edward Mirell Tension-Set Diamond Ring
Model R002A-D
Rank 7 category: Brands: Edward Mirell: Rings
Model SGI-R5902 Supplier: Intermerge Canada Inc. (Edward
category: Engagement Rings: Solitaires Mirell Line)
Supplier: Sun Gems-HRA
Rank 16
Rank 8 Edward Mirell Diamond Ring
Mans Diamond Ring Model R946D-D
Model 5762m category: Brands: Edward Mirell: Rings
category: Wedding Bands: With Diamonds Supplier: Intermerge Canada Inc. (Edward
Supplier: Cadman Manufacturing Mirell Line)
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 33
By Duncan Parker
34 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
T
he weight of a gem is one of the few empirical, provable facts in the gem world. With
weight, there is no “It’s a really low VS-2” or “The colour is really fine, top Burma red.”
Weight is never a matter of opinion, as long as the gem is weighed unmounted. There is
no estimation on scale weights, no rounding up or down if a gem is weighed on a scale. When
we are examining unmounted gems in the lab, we don’t pass them to each other for an opinion
of weight: “Do you think this is a 1.80 carat gem?” We put it on a scale and weigh it. We do share
opinions on clarities, colours, origins and identification, but weight is non-negotiable.
When the gem is mounted in jewellery, however, all bets are off. We have to work out what a
gem weighs. There are several ways to estimate weights when the carat scale is not an option:
Templates
Outlines of standard sizes and shapes printed onto, or punched out of, a transparent card.
Templates can be used by holding the card up to a gem and finding the outline that matches
that of the gem. The possible gem weight is printed on the template. These are useful for face-
up size comparisons, and rough estimations, but not accurate enough to estimate the weight of
a gem. They don’t have any allowance for depth, bulge or girdle thickness. They only allow for
the face up length and width.
Gauge Measurement
There are several ways to determine estimates of weight using measuring devices. The two main
types of measuring device used in this industry are “contact” and “non-contact”. Non-contact
measuring devices have names such as OGI and Sarin, and are usually used for measuring
unmounted diamonds. OGI and Sarin are companies that produce integrated hardware and
software systems using cameras and a turntable in the measuring of all of the dimensions and
proportions of a diamond and are able to estimate the weight very accurately, incorporating
length, width, depth, bulge and girdle thickness. Cut grade estimation is the main purpose of the
OGI or Sarin system.
Bulge
Coloured gems are often guilty of having some bulge below the girdle. Bulge is the degree of
variance from a straight line between the girdle and the culet of a gem. The more a gem bulges
out on the pavilion, the more surplus weight it carries. While a round brilliant-cut diamond
carries very little extra weight in the pavilion, a coloured gem may carry as much as 30% or
more in weight beyond what its straight measurements might indicate. Bulge is allowed for in
standard formulae for weight estimation.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 35
“ofAnerrorappraiser will estimate weight, but will often allow for a certain degree
when a calculated estimated weight is close to a magic threshold.
”
Girdle Thickness We can measure the dimensions of a gem, and based on the dimensions,
Like bulge, the girdle can carry extra weight that is not visible in the we calculate an estimation of the weight of the gem. The dimensions,
face-up measurements of a gem. Coloured gems and diamonds are all including length, width, and depth, are only some of the factors that are
capable of having girdles that may be anywhere from extremely thin to used to arrive at a good estimate of the weight of a gem.
extraordinarily thick. A thick girdle can retain substantial extra weight.
We have seen round brilliant diamonds with a face-up measurement of Why is weight so important? Gems are sold by weight. Gems of higher
5.50mm, yet have a scale weight of 1.00 carat. “So?” I hear you say. “The weight hold a greater value per carat than gems of lower weight, all other
cutter did a heck of a job.” A round brilliant-cut diamond of really excellent things being equal. The larger a gem of good quality, the rarer it is, so the
proportions that has a diameter of 5.50mm will likely have a weight of price tends to increase as size increases for gems of similar quality.
0.60ct. The 1.00 carat diamond of the same diameter had a girdle thickness
of 34%. A well-proportioned round brilliant-cut diamond might have a An appraiser will estimate weight, but will often allow for a certain degree
girdle thickness of only 1.50 to 2.00 %. The girdle on coloured gems tends of error when a calculated estimated weight is close to a magic threshold.
to be thicker than that of diamonds, and standard thickness of girdle is These weight categories correspond to price increases. A gem estimated as
allowed for in standard weight estimation formulae. 0.98 carat, will often be rounded 2% up to 1.00 carat. Some of the important
weight thresholds are 0.30ct, 0.50ct, 1.00ct, 1.50cts, 2.00cts, and so on. There
Formulae are two reasons for rounding up. Firstly, gems that are going to be cut close
Do you remember elementary school? Does the word “geometry” make you to an important weight threshold will almost always be cut to retain the
cringe? We estimate the weight of gems by calculating the volume of a three important weight. I once overheard a diamond worker in a factory getting
dimensional space. We had a clever gemmologist, Alla Totrov, working in serious strife about cutting another diamond that almost made a carat. Rarely
our lab, and she was calculating the estimated weight of gems that were will you find a gem that is 0.48 ct, 0.98 ct, 1.97ct and so on, so it is more likely
set in jewellery. Alla was using a formula that was used to determine the that a gem measuring to an estimated weight of 0.98ct will actually be 1.00
mass of a three-dimensional object of known density, and irregular shape. carat. No one wants to get a gem that is nearly a carat, but if they do, it will
She calculated the weights very accurately, but the rest of us use simpler likely be a lower price per carat than a gem of a carat weight. Secondly, an
formulae that are perhaps less accurate, but are still pretty good. estimate based on measurements and a formula is an approximation, and we
can give the benefit of the doubt to our estimates. If there is a variation of a
Because non-contact measuring devices are essentially used for unset couple of percentage points, there is a good possibility of the weight being
diamonds, we usually need to use contact measuring devices for weight over a price break-point.
estimation of mounted gems. Contact measuring devices include the
standard “Leveridge” gauge, a dial caliper specifically designed to measure It is reasonable for an appraiser to ask for weights if they are known. If you
gems. (Appraisers always appreciate goldsmiths who leave a small are handling loose gems, do your client (and appraiser) a favour and weigh
opening below the culet of gems to allow for the tip of a leveridge gauge them. The final consumer will have more accurate information about their
to fit through for depth measurement). Other measuring devices include a gems because documents can state that the weights of gems are exact,
micrometer and (non-contact) measuring reticles in microscope eyepieces. rather than estimated. [CJ]
36 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
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G
erry Gilroy, President and Owner of Independent Jewellers
in Edmonton, explodes all the preconceptions about how
to succeed in the jewellery business. He is not a Graduate
Gemologist (GIA), a Graduate Jeweller (CJA) or a bench jeweller, nor
did he inherit a family store. Yet Gilroy runs a 32,000-square-foot,
$25-million retail business, the largest in Canada. “I’m from Goodyear,”
he says simply. Gilroy, a native of Springhill, Nova Scotia spent most of
the 1960s working for Goodyear in Toronto, ultimately reaching the level
of Sales and Operations Manager, in charge of over 250 outlets. During
that 10-year period, he sidelined as a professional boxer under the name
Sonny Gilroy, sharing gym space with the likes of George Chuvalo, who
remains a good friend. Even now, Gilroy keeps a hand in the ring, as a
promoter running KO Boxing in Edmonton. He loves the sport, and he
knows what it takes to win. “You have to stay on your feet,” says Gilroy,
when asked what pro boxing and jewellery retailing have in common,
but adds: “jewellery retailing is more competitive.”
38 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 39
Gilroy jumped into the retail jewellery business in 1979, and over
the next decade, opened 15 stores, mainly in mall locations. This
was the age of the mass market and unbridled expansion, a business
model that, as many Canadian jewellers will remember, became
“theWhen asked what he thinks is
biggest issue the jewellery
a recipe for disaster in the wake of the recession of the early ’90s.
Birks and Peoples, both highly leveraged to support expansionist industry will face in the coming
policies, plummeted into bankruptcy protection. The Birks family year, Gilroy answers, ‘I don’t see
ended up losing control of the family enterprise — it was acquired
first by major shareholder Lorenzo Rossi and is now part of Mayors, ”
any. We’re very positive here.’
a public company based in Florida. Peoples emerged under the
Zale umbrella, with operations and buying functions now based in
Dallas. As for Gilroy, he took the drastic step of simply shuttering
all 15 of his unprofitable mall stores, all in one sweep, and opened
a single big-box store. On the theory that you can’t cross a chasm
in two small jumps, Gilroy had effectively decided to take one giant
step into the future rather than engaging in a fight he couldn’t win.
“I knew of a guy in L.A. who tried the big box concept, and another
in Texas, and I thought, why not give it a try here,” says Gilroy.
40 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 41
Having the ability to “back off” a little doesn’t mean Gilroy is slowing
down, however. In 2007, he traded in his 15,000-square-foot store for
a 32,000-square-foot space which takes up the lower floor of a new
headquarters Gilroy built on 170th Street. Part of the top f loor is
rented to an insurance company. The rest of the upper floors include
Independent’s office space, a boardroom, a private viewing/event room
and a fully equipped gym, complete with showers and a jacuzzi. A
trainer comes in three times a week, to which the staff has full access.
“I bought the land five years ago and it cost me $6 million to build. It’s
now worth $12-million,” says Gilroy.
42 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
At the Mayfield location, it was $500, which means that going bigger
meant going slightly more upscale. “Not many stores in Canada
keep 10-carat diamonds in stock,” comments Gilroy. “It makes us a
destination store for the whole region — 50% of our business is from
out of town.”
Gilroy believes the high-end has been hit hardest by the current
recession, but says Independent hasn’t take a significant hit; there has
been no change in the store’s merchandising strategy or product mix.
“We’re not really participating in the recession,” he says matter-of-
factly. “We were down about 9% last year, but sales have been up the
last three or four months. We’re looking for a good Christmas.” In fact,
So how do you stock a 32,000-square-foot store? “We carry stuff that when asked what he thinks is the biggest issue the jewellery industry
sells,” says Gilroy, exhibiting more of his simple logic. Obviously, will face in the coming year, Gilroy answers, “I don’t see any. We’re very
getting the winning formula is more complicated than it sounds, positive here.”
however. It took years for Gilroy and his buying staff to refine the
mix — and the mix is fluid; “we are looking at new lines all the time,” An aggressive marketing strategy is a big part of what stimulates traffic.
he says. Watches take up 4,000-square-feet (and represent 10% of the Gilroy puts 5% of his sales into advertising — that’s about $700,000 this
business), with brands including Omega, Tissot, Concord, Ball, Seiko, year — spending it in newspaper, TV, Billboards (in Calgary, Red Deer
Bulova, Rado, Ebel, Movado, Guess, Roots and Wittnauer, some and Fort McMurray) as well as hotel magazines. The store holds about
of which are displayed in shop-in-shop boutiques. A whopping 60% six in-store events a year and supports several local charities. Gilroy has
of Independent’s business is in diamonds, including every brand of even managed to make one of his methods of advertising pay for itself.
Canadian diamond that exists. Gilroy, who handles all of the diamond A full-image digital reader board perched outside the store began as a
buying himself — “you’ve got to know what you’re doing,” he says — medium for carrying ads about store merchandise. Local businesses
also buys directly from the Ekati mine. The store carries $1 million in began to approach Gilroy about placing ads on the board, hoping to
loose diamond inventory, including stones up to 10 carats. Gold product reach out to the 95,000 cars that pass by the sign every day. Gilroy now
includes everything from high-end Italian goods to lines from small-to- makes extra income selling ads on the board.
medium-sized Canadian manufacturers and suppliers. Ultimately, the
merchandise mix still reflects the principle behind the big-box concept Although none of Gilroy’s three children have expressed an interest in
of retailing, which dictates ‘something for everyone.’ Independent succeeding him in the family business, Gilroy, who is 67, is not worried
stocks the full spectrum, from 10 carat diamonds to class rings, and about succession because “I have no intention of ever retiring,” he says.
everything in between, with $700 clocking in as the store’s average sale. “I love this business.” [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 43
Dreaming in Colour
Some say women want more gemstone jewellery:
colourful fantasy or stone-cold fact?
BY SARAH B. HOOD
B
right and colourful gemstones in innovative and ethereal designs “Colour is very big right now, and most women buy for themselves if
are igniting the passion of shoppers these days, and the savvy you can attract them with the styles, and if you can educate them,” says
retailer may well attract the eye of women buyers by catering to this Karolin Tecimer, who handles sales for Tecimer in Toronto. Designer
desire. In late October, the U.S.-based American Gem Trade Association and retailer Jasmine Hubjer, owner of Jasmine’s Fine Jewellery in
released the results of a survey of 1,345 self-purchasing American Toronto’s Yorkville area, says “There’s a big market for women buying
women. It concluded that this demographic is largely underexploited for themselves. It’s not a trend: it’s a way of life.”
and ignored by the broad spectrum of the industry.
“Some of my best clients are women who buy for themselves, and a lot
Canadian retailers report growing interest in coloured gemstones, of them buy colour,” concurs custom designer Llyn Strelau of Jewels By
particularly from independent and style-conscious women. “For the Design in Calgary. He sells to businesswomen, doctors, lawyers and —
first time in 300 years we have women who are so empowered that an Alberta niche — female geologists working in oil who “tend to be
they can walk into any store and buy a diamond or a coloured stone for knowledgeable and want to know the details of the stone.”
themselves,” says Grace Reagh, Director of Coloured Stones and Estate
Jewellery for Birks. Founded in 2003, Taraxca Jewellery has three outlets around the Greater
Vancouver Area. “One of the things you find is that women buying for
Independent outlets see the same phenomenon. “We have tailored ourselves themselves like to match outfits,” says Melissa Aragón, who cofounded
to the woman self-purchaser,” says Judy Richards, owner and president the store with her husband Hector Aragón. “You can have a piece of
of Davidson’s Jewellers in Ottawa. “We do a lot of coloured gemstones in silver that goes with everything, but when you get into amethyst or
yellow gold in pieces that they can buy for $400 up to $1,000.” peridot, you can pick a piece to go with an outfit.”
44 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Aragón says she is seeing interest in “natural, neutral colours”: smoky line as well, with blue topaz, green and pink amethyst and smoky quartz.
topaz, moonstone, peridot, citrine and golden rutile quartz. “Rose “There seems to be a trend for green amethyst and citrine,” she adds.
quartz has been really popular this year; people always like pink,” she
says, “and you can get big chunky pieces of coloured quartz for much In Alberta, says Strelau, “the cruise ships are selling a lot of tanzanite, so
less than other stones. Turquoise has always been a classic, and the other people will come home from a cruise knowing what it is.” Also popular
one I want to mention — because it’s Canadian — is Labradorite. ‘Blue are “sodalite in that beautiful bright green, and lots of tourmalines,”
Fire’ is a neutral colour that has shades of brilliance in it, so you can whether in the hot pink or “light, lively blueish green” colour range.
wear it with a dark suit, but then the light catches it.”
Numerous lines at midrange price points cater to the interest in these
These trends are showing up across the country: and when they want stones. For instance, Davidson’s in Ottawa is featuring a line of pendants
bold pieces in bright colours, price-conscious shoppers are turning and earrings with two or three stones. “That’s done very well for us,” says
to quartz. Pale and earthtone hues are also popular, as are off beat Richards. “We also bring in a line from Brazil called Vianna, which is
colour combinations. now represented here in Canada. It’s great because it uses all the quartz
stones from Brazil, and you get lots of large-looking pieces.”
“We’ve never seen such demand for more unusual colour. Designers
have started to mix light green quartz with the amethyst and citrine At Birks this fall, “we’re having such an influx of fabulous inventory,”
or garnet,” says Reagh. Designers are “really stepping up to the plate” says Reagh. The newest lines range from $500 to under $3,000. She
with innovative uses of tourmalines, quartz and garnets, she adds; for describes them as “wonderful, wearable colour, beautifully made, and at
instance, “they are blending red garnets with shades of citrine: that’s a a completely accessible price point.” Birks is also bringing in lines from
pretty strong trend.” Brazil and Italy, as well as a sterling silver line from Andrea Candela.
“We’re showing more colour variety than we have in years past,” says
In Ottawa, says Richards, “over the past six months, we’ve seen a real Reagh. “Visually, it’s going to be a treat.”
trend towards citrine, smoky quartz, and the brown and gold tones with
yellow instead of white gold. Blue topaz is strong, and there has been a Other brands have been introducing new gem collections like
lot of interest in the coloured quartzes.” Pandora, who recently introduced new rings with one, two, three,
six or eight gemstones or a pavé treatment. There’s also mix-and-
In Toronto, Hubjer’s best sellers include her own work in microset pavé matchable earrings, pendants and necklaces. Birthstones are becoming
pink sapphires. “We often set it in pink gold and add some diamonds. It increasingly popular as a theme, with some women choosing to
is very feminine and very soft, and it goes with all skin tones,” she says. coordinate their jewellery to the birthstones of their close family
“We also use blue sapphires and rubies.” Hubjer creates a sterling silver members and other loved ones.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 45
In selling to women, genuine passion for the stones is an asset, says Strelau.
“If you’re enthusiastic about what you’re selling them, you can convey that Coloured Gemstone Advertisers in this issue
to the client and get them excited.” It’s also important to nurture a role as
trusted advisor. Atlantic Engraving
t: 800.267.7823
“You have to build a relationship,” agrees Tecimer. “You have to understand e: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca
their lifestyle and you have to be able to cater to them. They’re coming to
you because you’re the expert.”
J.S.N. Jewellery
t: 800.470.7374
w: www.jsnjewellery.com
In this spirit, Richards has actually created an occasional series of evenings
when a hand-picked list of about a dozen women meet with a gemstone Jomark
supplier over cocktails and hors d’oeuvres at the store. They handle and t: 905.264.0400
discuss unset stones, and each woman builds a grouping of her favourite
gems on the table in front of her. The participants are encouraged to begin Mirage
collecting towards a bracelet of eight stones. Richards reports that she sells t: 877.BY.MIRAGE
between $8,000 and $12,000 per night. w: www.miragecreations.com
At a lower price point, Aragón finds that the spiritual properties of stones
Pandora Jewellery
t: 410.309.0200
are a big selling point. She prepares cards describing the nature and
w: www.pandora-jewelry.com
history of each stone, along with care instructions. “I’ve had people make
their decision based on these cards,” she says. “I was amazed: I’ve had Rousseau Chain Imports
people look through all the cards!” t: 800.661.4460
Some, like Hubjer, don’t distinguish between their male and female Siffari
clients. “Women buy what they want,” she says. However, “the consumer t: 416.441.1010
is recession-weary,” says Reagh, “so it’s wise to plan for the self-purchasing w: www.siffari.com
woman, who’s huge in the market for the impulse buy.”
Stuller
t: 337.262.7700
But whether it’s simple sterling or gleaming gold, says Reagh, “it’s one of
w: www.stuller.com
the few areas where you’re targeting a split demographic.” With beautiful
gemstones,” she says, “we can address the age group from 10 to 60.” [CJ]
46 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
JA New York is home to over 35,000 industry professionals and features a complete array
of the finest jewelry manufacturers and designers from around the globe. The shows
offer retailers complete access to a comprehensive selection of the latest fine jewelry
merchandise and services across all price points, segments and product categories.
www.JA-NewYork.com
Interested in Exhibiting? Contact Drew Lawsky at 646-654-4983, Drew.Lawsky@nielsen.com.
D
iamonds are a girl’s best friend. Diamonds are forever. The from sightholders. “I then started buying rough, and manufacturing
adages go on and on. It’s no surprise then that Montreal-based my own diamonds, which are all sent to either GIA or AGS for
Eternal Diamonds has tapped into these classic sayings, starting certification,” he continues. Sizes range from melee to over 5.00cts in
with its company name alone. all shapes and qualities.
Steve Mamane has taken the diamond desire and turned it into a “We have direct access to the diamond market on a global scale,
business that gives consumers the gift of eternal beauty. The story dates which enables us to find all special requests while offering the lowest
back to 1997, after many years in the health sciences field and working competitive prices for our clients,” says Mamane. Eternal Diamonds
part-time for a gold jewellery wholesaler. Steve then started his GIA strives to provide its customers with experience and quality in all
degree via correspondence with the New York Office back in 1998. “I products and services, while “remaining committed to our industry’s
had a great customer base built over the years,” he reflects, “and wanted highest standard of ethics by offering conflict free diamonds.”
to diversify into the loose diamond and finished diamond jewellery
aspect of the industry.” Aside from loose diamonds, Eternal Diamonds has grown to specialize
in diverse areas and programs from studs, pendants, necklaces and
And just like that, at 24-years-old, Steve sold his car for some initial rings, both in diamonds and coloured stone jewellery, in precious
capital and started Eternal Diamonds. It wasn’t exactly easy to get going, and semi-precious. The company is also very excited to have acquired
and Steve had to work hard to get things off the ground. “Between a good exclusive distribution rights to “Securehoop” Earrings, which is the
name, being honest and hard work, I began buying and selling across only earring with a safety lock. The company’s number one category?
the country and doing various trade shows.” “The bridal line. With thousands of models in stock of semi-mounts
and bands available for delivery as well as special make-ups according
Over time, the company grew. Mamane began importing finished to consumer specifications.” Besides offering bridal engagement
jewellery from overseas, venturing into buying loose diamonds directly and wedding rings and bands, the company has expanded into the
48 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
various other sub-categories that have started to boom in recent stipulating that customers get free ring sizing any time within the
years. This includes promise rings, anniversary bands and three-stone first five years; lifetime diamond rings and jewellery cleaning; lifetime
rings, which offers one stone representing the past, one representing the inspection on diamond jewellery; appraisal of diamond rings; re-tipping
present, and one representing the future. Other popular jewellery items of claws for ten years; and lifetime re-shaping of rings.
for the company include solitaire necklaces and tennis bracelets.
To build his business from the ground up and to sustain it in the
With the economic outlook getting better in late 2009, Eternal Diamonds current situtation, Mamane admits you “have to be aggressive in today’s
is well-positioned to stand the test of time, despite being a relatively new economic times.” To keep himself ahead, Mamame insists that selection
kid on the block. “In today’s economic times, it is crucial to diversify and competitive pricing are the keys to success. Another important
your product,” notes Mamame. “[The key is] to stand out from the factor? Customer service — top quality, all the time. There’s also the
ordinary, while keeping service the priority.” The company’s response importantance of trust. “Selling exclusively GIA-certified diamonds
to this growing demand and steady supply of product? Focus on sales puts your reputation to a higher standard,” he suggests. He also notes
and marketing. “We presently have four sales staff members covering that customers need someone they can trust, not just a product, so one
Canada, servicing clients that range from independent owners to chain must “sell yourself” before selling any product (“No risk, no reward.”)
stores across the country.” Along with the four staffers covering the On the retailer side, “continuous customer service” helps to keep all
entire continent out of the Montreal office, the company also employs involved parties satisfied and in business,
a full-time jeweller with a CAD/CAM machine, and casts in 14k and and keeps the people coming back for
18k, both in white and yellow gold, and can also cast in 19k super white more. The industry never gets boring
as well as in platinum. Although the company sells mainly in North for Mamane, as “finalizing a business
America, “several stones of mine have been sold overseas through deal overseas, which ultimately
various diamond brokers,” notes Mamane. pleases the retail customer” are
still exciting things for the Eternal
A big part of the business is also the custom category. “We custom Diamonds team. “The global
make many exclusive designs and do in-house repairs to warranty our diamond market is huge when
products. We are currently working enhancing a state of the art search you see the amount of diamonds
engine for all of consumer diamond requests and inquiries, as well as that are traded on a daily basis in
online ordering for the jewellery division.” The website proves to be the bourses.”
quite impressive, and e-commerce is at the forefront of the brand’s
future goals. “We have to be able to offer overnight shipping and credit What’s next for Eternal
card payements directly — that’s an important part of the growth of our Diamonds? The future looks
industry, of technology’s impact.” bright, as the diamond
industry continues to grow
Eternal Diamonds is also a proud supporter of all things Canadian, steadily and the economy
carrying an extensive selection of Canadian diamonds. With a diamond is looking up. In two words,
specialist on hand to discuss Canadian diamonds with consumers, a Mamane’s goal for the company
main goal for the company is to help make informed purchasing decisions is simple: “keep growing.” [CJ]
on this important new Canadian resource. Eternal Diamonds is also far
ahead of the curve with an extensive website that is both informative
and a sales portal. Through this medium, the company is able to educate
consumers and any interested parties on everything about diamonds
from the cut to the clarity. Although the pieces available on the website
represent only a small portion of what Mamane has in the showroom at
any given time, they constantly have an ever-expanding and changing
inventory thanks to great sell-through.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m DECEMBER 2009 CJ 49
F
rom forest fires in British Columbia to tornados in Ontario,
the news never fails to deliver an onslaught of stories profiling
devastating loss to homes and businesses. Yet while catastrophic
disasters may grab national headlines, smaller, less publicized disruptions
to business — such as local power outages, theft, Internet viruses and even
illnesses such as the H1N1 flu — are much more common, and can be
particularly worrisome for small businesses. Despite this, many Canadian
small business owners remain vulnerable to these everyday risks.
50 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Lauren Gervais, who owns Data Probe, a market research firm based Insurance needs – While insurance can be expensive, managing through
in Winnipeg, knows first-hand how important it is to plan for the a flood or severe illness can be even more expensive in the long run. As
unexpected. In 2008, her company expanded into a new space, and due businesses grow and evolve, so do insurance needs, and important assets
to a faulty plumbing installation, experienced a catastrophic flood. “It should be covered appropriately — including employees. For example,
destroyed pretty much everything,” said Gervais. “The ceilings collapsed, the survey found that 51% of small business owners had fire or flood
furniture was floating — we couldn’t salvage a thing.” While Gervais had insurance, yet only 20% had catastrophic illness insurance in case of an
insurance, the flood nevertheless halted her business for six months. “I emergency health situation.
thought I had done everything right, but I was astounded by how long we
were out of commission,” she said. “As a small business owner, I can see Intangible losses – Beyond the obvious damage that can occur when
just how easy it is to get stuck in the here and now — but if you can’t do disruption strikes are intangible losses such as loss of client confidence
it yourself, you really need to have someone on staff who’s looking ahead and damage to a businesses’ reputation. Pinpointing the cost of such
at the big picture.” losses to the business can be next to impossible to determine. On the
other hand, many small business owners have developed best practices
Understandably, prioritizing how both time and money is spent can be a that reduce the likelihood of the disruption happening in the first place
constant juggling act, and particularly during a recession, it’s natural and and in essence, controlling the controllable.
often necessary to focus on increasing profits rather than on expenditures
like preparing for unforeseen circumstances. Indeed, 35% of survey Back-ups – While 57% of survey respondents had a data back-up plan,
respondents cited money as a hindrance to developing a plan, while a only 31% had a back-up power supply on hand for electrical systems. Not
third said finding time was a struggle — not surprising, considering that every business is reliant on electronic data but for those that do, back-
small business owners tend to play the role of everything from salesman up locations are a common defense tactic. Knowing the areas that are
and accountant to head of human resources in the fi rst few years of crucial to uninterrupted business operations is key.
business. Without someone dedicated to big picture planning, tasks like
business continuity planning can fall further down the “to do” list. Investing in the Future
There’s no doubt that as businesses mature and growth allows owners
Taking a Look at Business Security to outsource some activities or hire additional employees, planning for
The definition of disruption can vary significantly from business to everyday risks becomes more realistic, both from a time and money
business and from industry to industry. The important thing is for perspective. The good news is that while the current business climate is
small business owners to step back and carefully assess the issues that still difficult, things are improving: the survey found that nearly one in
constitute a significant disruption to their own situation and have a plan three (30%) of Canadian small business owners now feel their business
in place to manage. Fortunately, there are many easy and inexpensive is on the upswing, while the proportion of those who feel their business
things that can be done, and often it’s all about finding the right place to is still suffering from a slight or significant downturn has dropped from
start. For example, determining alternative staffing resources in case of 56% to 48% since June 2009. With a better economic outlook in sight
an emergency health situation like H1N1 flu and talking to employees and even moderately strong and steady growth over the next two years
about how to better protect themselves are simple measures that can forecast by the Conference Board of Canada, investing in peace of mind
make a big difference. Other areas to look at can include: may become an easier reality for Canada’s small business owners. [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m DECEMBER 2009 CJ 51
B
y all accounts, 2009 has been the white knuckle ride of the decade service provided by MasterCardAdvisors, showed that luxury goods sales in
for jewellery retailers. The U.S. has been the hardest hit. Economists the U.S. increased by 6.5% in October, with jewellery ahead of the pack at
believe holiday sales will be unchanged from last year, when 7.2%. Analysts at Standard & Poor’s Equity Research said in a report also in
businesses recorded their biggest declines in at least 40 years.
Jewellers early November that “consumers appear to be shopping again for apparel
have been particularly brutalized by the economy. A recent report in The and some home fashions.” Retail stocks were up 1.4% in October.
New York Times stated: “In this economy, many consumers would rather
keep their money in their wallets than on their fingers, necks or ears. As Here in Canada, the recession has taken a smaller bite out of the jewellery
people re-examine their budgets, jewellery is turning out to be one of the retailing business, but it has not remained unscathed. There have been
easiest places to cut back or trade down.”
(It qualified this in the story by some reports of store closings, some due to bankruptcy and others due to
reporting that the bridal market remains stable). There are fears that the early retirement brought on by the business climate. Paul Leonard Jeweller,
recession will leave a lingering distate for conspicuous consumption. run by Paul and his daughter Susan, are closing their store at the end of
this year. Anne Neumann, president of Weinstein Associates, comments,
Luxury watch sales have been devastated. After a decade of record sales, “The store has been a fixture on the main street of Cobourg for nearly 90
Swiss watch exports to the U.S., its largest market, tanked by 28% last years. Their going will be keenly felt in their community and the closing
January, followed by steady declines over the next three months until of yet another family-run store is a loss to the whole industry.” Watchcraft,
hitting a 40-year low of -49.8% in March. After that, exports started to a fixture on Bloor Street since 1941, shuttered its retail operation in June,
climb back up again, but not by much. The value of exports to the U.S. opening an office nearby where it will do custom work and watch repairs
were still down by 43% in September, the last month for which stats on an appointment basis.
are available. Last year at the Swiss watch fairs, elite brands brought in
new collections at price points lower than anything they have offered in For the first six months of 2009, retail jewellery sales in Canada were
decades (now is good time to buy/sell a watch!) $1,194,046,296, compared with $1,230,742,323 for the first six months of
2008. The final tally — whatever final sales are for 2009 compared with
That said, there are rumblings of a recovery in the U.S., despite a 10% $2,951,097,137 for 2008 — is what counts, as the final six months of the
unemployment rate, which economists say could hit 10.5% in 2010.
The U.S. year are most crucial.
Conference Board’s index of consumer confidence was reported at 47.7 in
October. (According to the index, a reading of 90 indicates an economy on To that end, we bring you a few survival strategies and merchandising tips
solid footing, while 100 or more indicates growth.
) But that’s up from a low of from retailers across Canada, as well as their informed predictions for the
25.3 in February. An early November study by SpendingPulse, an information coming year.
52 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
54 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
“bringing
We have bought lighter gold items, stocked up on higher-end silver, and we are
B renda P
in watches, which we haven’t had since 1975.
,
enner
”
Ernest Penner Fine Jewellery, Winnipeg
“Jewellery stores offering excellent services will keep their clientele. Have You Changed Your Product Mix?
Customers appreciate personalized service, a warm welcome, a nice
ambiance. They cannot buy everything on the Internet.” “Not really — we do mostly custom and that business has continued,
Carmen Rivet just not at the boom-time level that I saw the previous three years.
Bijoux de Création, St. Lambert, QC We reduced inventory by buying fewer loose gemstones than usual,
although my inventory is pretty deep as it is, so I really do not need
What’s Selling, What’s Not more stock.”
Llyn Strelau
“Engagement rings and custom designs are bringing in the business. For Jewels By Design, Calgary
Christmas, diamond hoops should be good, especially the inside/out style.
Simon G Jewellery will do well, as the brand is now really well recognized in “Children’s jewellery is a department that we have seen tremendous
Canada. Longer neck lengths in sterling silver, chunky chain and coloured growth this fall. We have added the BFly kids birthstone collection.”
stone jewellery are picking up. We went into this year with way too much Michele Bankowski,
inventory therefore we are really looking at what we have and melting old Diamonds of Detroit, Humboldt, SK
items, redesigning some (ie, making a pair of $1,000 drop earrings into
two pendants at $500 each) and adjusting prices on others — sometimes “We have gone up-market, adding high quality diamonds (D-E-F
up to the current gold price, but many times down to fit a price range that /Fl-VVS) 3ct + , and unique shapes that make great custom pieces.
we are out of rather than order new stock. But we always reorder our fast Fine sapphires are in demand as are fine rubies and emeralds. We
sellers to keep them in stock. Suppliers will have to hold tight for a year have added complication pieces from Patek, 41mm Rolexes and the
while we retailers get our inventory under control. They should expect us new 38mm steel/white gold with diamonds Rolexes. The very high end
to purchase smaller amounts but more frequently as the goods move.” seems immune to recession cycles.”
Judy Richards Norbert Brinkhaus
Davidson’s Jewellers, Ottawa Brinkhaus Jewellers, Calgary
“I think silver items and watches will be top sellers this year. I think people
are leery about buying gold. It’s a harder sell these days.” “We are carrying more fashion jewellery in the $200-300 dollar
Brenda Penner range, more sterling jewellery and fashion watches. We have
Penner Fine Jewellers, St. Catharines dropped a lot of lines and are focusing more on buying product
that turns quickly.”
“Top sellers will be charms and more charms, Pandora, Thomas Carol Weepers
Sabo. Bridal sales are also strong.” Rosser Reeves Jewellers, Tecumseh, ON
Michele Bankowski
Diamonds of Detroit, Humboldt, Sask.
“I added two new lines (Bellari and Breuning) and improved one that
“Charms are hot, hot, hot! Fashion watches — the emphasis on fashion was doing very well (Vienna).”
— no one really needs a watch anymore, with cell phones. Good quality, Carmen R ivet
brand name diamond jewellery is always a good seller.” Bijoux de Création, St. Lambert, QC
Carol Weepers
Rosser Reeves Jewellers, Tecumseh, ON Lowered Your Prices?
“Diamonds would be a wise purchase since the prices went down. But “No, although I have been more willing to give a good client a break on
customers will ask for… flip a coin.” price on the purchase of pieces from inventory.”
Carmen Rivet Llyn Strelau
Bijoux de Création, St. Lambert, QC Jewels By Design, Calgary
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 55
Susan Leonard, one of Paul’s four children and co-owner of the store
with her father, has no wish to continue to run the business. “The
store has remained solvent and profitable to the end,” she says —
no small achievement in these days of super-stores and cut-price
outlets. “But dad is ready to retire,” says Susan, “and the store is so
identified with him, I didn’t want to continue without him.” She has no
immediate plans other than to spend some time at home with her
husband and son. She knows there will be future opportunities but
has no idea what they are, and is in no hurry to search them out.
Leonard concurs that it was time to close his doors. “It just seemed
right to end the business this year. I talked to a few friends in
the trade who had closed up and we decided to hold an end of
business sale. We marked the stock down from 30% to 70%.”
The store was closed for four days prior to the sale to make
preparations and price the stock. On the first day of the sale, there
Paul Leonard Calls It Quits was a line-up down the street.
Paul Leonard Jewellers in Cobourg, ON, is closing its doors after 84
years. Leonard started working in the store, then Knox Jewellers, as “I’ve always maintained a special niche in the local market that
a watchmaker trainee, leaving only to serve in the RCAF, where he allowed us to compete with the large chain stores,” says Leonard. If
worked on aircraft instruments. When the war ended, he returned he has been faithful to his customers, that loyalty has been returned.
to the store, which by then had been bought by Joe McTague, “We have grandchildren of early customers coming here to shop.
and quickly became a certified watchmaker, a busy trade back That is very satisfying and encouraging. It’s been a satisfying life. The
then. In 1963, Paul and his wife, Miriam, purchased the store from jewellery business is a bit like music — it changes all the time.” Will
McTague, and the name was changed to Paul L. Leonard, Jeweller he be looking for something else to do? “No I’m going to do as little
Ltd. Leonard added a GIA gemmology diploma to his training, as as possible,” he says. “I’ve had my day in the sun.”
well as a membership in the American Gem Society. His wife Miriam
is a certified diamond appraiser. Daughter Susan is a Registered — Brian Slemming
56 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
“presented
I think we will see some changes in the frequency and selection
L S
lyn trelau ,
”
by jewellery travellers.
Jewels By Design, Calgary
The Future “Here in Québec, I don’t think it was as bad as for the rest of Canada for
many reasons:
“I KNOW the economy is improving, but clients are still holding back a) we are very little involved in car manufacturing
somewhat. Impulse buying has not returned to the way it was. I think b) we have no oil
Christmas will be much better this year than last. (Ottawa had a bus c) a very important accident occured three years ago when a road passing
strike which started mid December and business in the downtown core over a highway fell, killing five people and injured a dozen. The provincial
just shut down totally. Our Christmas sales were down over 20%.) I government had to admit our roads had been neglected for many years. The
think people have been holding on to their money for so long that they government had no choice but to vote a budget of billions of dollars to rebuild
will be ready to part with it for Christmas this year.” our roads and highways, returning to work thousands of workers, just before
Judy R ichards the recession. When construction goes well, everything goes well…”
Davidson Jewellers, Ottawa Carmen Rivet
Bijoux de Création, St. Lambert, QC [CJ]
“I am still confident that good custom jewellery will hold its own. I think
we will see some changes in the frequency and selection presented by
jewellery travellers. Calgary is showing more enthusiasm for sure. I have
had some nice spontaneous sales and the wedding market continues,
of course.”
Llyn Strelau
Jewels By Design, Calgary
“Some of the watch companies are flexing their muscles, while others
struggle and some will not make it. North America will lose its
dominance in the world market. Imported goods will see double digit
price increases due to high gold prices and the weak dollar. Many
jewellers do not understand that cash flow sales will only extend the
inevitable but mess up the market short-term. If you do not make any
profit you are in trouble. Some of the underfinanced jewellers will not
be around by Easter 2010.”
Norbert Brinkhaus
Brinkhaus Jewellers, Calgary
w w w.
34303-TrollBeads Cdn Jewellers ad.indd 1 c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 57 11:53 AM
CJ16/11/09
I
n this step-by-step CAD jewellery design tutorial we will be creating an eternity channel-set band, using the 3D software “Moment of Inspiration”
(MOI) (assuming a basic understanding of a 3D workspace and knows how to draw circles and lines using snaps and construction lines as guides
for good precision) but it is quite adaptable for a variety of programs. This is an excellent choice for those jewellers who would like to get started
with CAD but may have been put off by the complexity of other programs.
Make sure to set the units to millimeters using the options button. Now we’re ready to begin modeling!
1 2
Draw a 17.35mm circle for the finger hole, starting it from the Now we will draw the “Profile” curve in the Right Viewport.
Origin of the workspace in the Front Viewport. Place a 2mm I gave the inside a “V” shape to make it easier to cut seats
diamond model 0.5mm above the top of the circle for a visual for the stones and polish the channel. As you can see in the
reference to draw the “Profile” curve that will be used for the band. object editor box, it’s 2.99mm wide by 1.7mm high.
3 4
Next, draw a 0.6mm circle, centering it under the diamond, Extrude the circle upwards in the Right Viewport to make
in the Top Viewport. a “Cutter” which will later be used to create assures beneath
the stones.
58 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
5 6
To create the band, begin the Sweep operation by selecting To create the band, begin the Sweep operation by selecting
the “Profile” curve first, click Done and then select the Rail the “Profile” curve first, click Done.
curve, (the circle) and click Done.
7 8
Select the Rail curve (the circle) and click Done, resulting in Now it’s time to array the cutters. Using the Circle Array tool,
the swept ring surface. pick the Origin of the workspace as the center of the Array.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m DECEMBER 2009 CJ 59
9 10
Type in 30 in the Item Count box with the “Angle to Fill” left at Next, using Boolean Difference, we will subtract the cutters
360 degrees. Click Done to complete the operation. from the ring surface. Select the ring as the base object first,
click Done and then select all the cutters.
11 12
For rendering purposes we will Circle Array the diamonds This accurately dimensioned CAD model can now be exported
using the same parameters we used to array the cutters — in STL format to be processed on a CNC milling machine or RP
30 items, arrayed 360 degrees. machine for prototyping and then cast in metal, resulting in a
beautiful custom-designed ring. [CJ]
60 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Tradition Meets
Technology
The computer is an ultimate client relations tool.
And there is no better time of
year to put it to good use.
By A mber K laehn
W
ith the holiday season upon us, stores are at their busiest with At first glance, the inanimate and impersonal computer may not seem to
increased shopping traffic. Not only is this a boost to sales, have a place in client relationship building in the highly personalized world
but also the ideal time of year to capture client information of jewellery sales. The irony is that technology opens up possibilities for an
and build client files and relationships for ongoing business throughout even higher degree of personalized service. Consider the kind of information
the rest of the year and for years to come. that is useful in our industry: a client’s special occasions and milestone dates;
conversational detail on personal interests, profession, family; physical
Jewellery retailers have long used client relationship management, with characteristics such as hair and eye color; ring and neck measurements;
the handwritten book a mainstay of sales associates for capturing client jewellery preferences; shopping style; past purchases and future wish
contact details, important dates, purchases, jewellery preferences and list; and preferred means of contact. This data is easily transferred from
so on. While the handwritten notebook is valuable for the immediate notebook and memory onto computer, or collected directly through your
capture of basic information in the showroom, technology enables the POS solution. In fact, the computer allows for more detail to be organized in
capture of more information and enhances the information’s usefulness easy-to-access files. Your system can be set up with templates and prompts to
— making it dynamic, providing continuity with staff turnover and ensure complete client profiles. The brilliance is that the information can be
opening up new options for staying connected. programmed and manipulated to optimize prospecting opportunities.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 61
Because a computer profile captures rich detail in one centralized place, and/or upset clients due to missed dates or unfulfilled promises. A central
it creates a complete picture that gives the sales associate natural points storehouse for all client information is a valuable resource. New employees
of contact with the client. A well-designed computer system should allow can mine information from the computer to build their own relationships,
seamless information flow from the POS to email. An automated system ensure continuity with clients and identify opportunities for sales.
can be set up to trigger follow-ups at time of sale, for preset intervals going
forward. Dates become dynamic with computerized calendar functions. Technology also enables templates for correspondence and marketing
For example, the system can be set to prompt a courtesy call to a client in materials. You can create and store sample invitations, follow-up notes
advance of an upcoming important date. on client satisfaction and thank you letters. This assists sales associates
in timely communication and ensures a high degree of professionalism
Calendar notes might indicate that the client rushed in at store closing from all staff. It also serves to uphold and reinforce the culture and the
to make his last purchase. In that case, the phone contact could reference brand of your business.
the client’s busyness and suggest gift-buying options to make life easier.
The capacity of technology enables highly personalized contact to meet As client preferences shift to more online contact, there are more
client needs, based on sales associates’ entries. Computer technology can opportunities to use technology to connect with the client in the way he
generate useful information on a client’s past purchases and purchasing or she prefers to communicate. While I don’t believe anything replaces
patterns as well as future wants. It can marry her wish list and preferences ultimate face-to-face contact and the ability to see the sparkle of a
to his buying habits. In addition to linking to dates and gift-giving diamond or feel the cool touch of gold, the reality is that some clients are
opportunities, jewellery preferences can be linked to inventory to prompt too busy to spend time in the store. The computer connection can enable
an alert that a client’s favourite style or collectible has newly arrived. Such a customized showcasing of wish list items or preferred styles at various
information is invaluable for marketing campaigns, knowing who and price points. It’s all about delivery.
when to target, and the best means of contact: note, direct mail piece,
email or phone call. Looking Forward
At this time of year, the jewellery retailer has wonderful opportunities to
Once client information is on the computer, it stays with the store. This is establish relationships with many new clients — to become a part of their
especially important when there is staff turnover. Technology provides a tradition. The computer makes it easier than ever, tracking the purchases
consistent place to store the information. Handwritten notes can be easily of holidays past, and highlighting opportunities for purchases of holidays
lost when an employee leaves the organization, resulting in potential lost sales present and future. [CJ]
62 CJ december 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Wild Things Necklace: Handwoven necklace, graduated top-drilled black coral and black onyx beads, vermeil and onyx clasp. Retail $1,050.
fter many years spent trying to figure out what she wanted to be when finally, in 2005, after five years of exploring and learning, she launched her
she grew up, Peggy Sturman ended up a jewellery designer. But there M. Sturman Jewellery line. It’s been noted that Peggy “painstakingly designs,
were many choices on her list: “working in an art gallery? Caterer? hand weaves or crochets each piece” in her New York studio, and she admits
Floral designer? It took me until 2000, when I discovered beadwork, to there’s no help: “I do it all myself.” Her collection is unapologetically “for
figure it out, and it’s been non-stop since then.” With a Bachelor of Fine every woman who enjoys flirting with the bold, with the exquisite, and with
Arts, and a Masters in Art History, this design maverick had many career the exceptional.” With a palette of freshwater pearls, stones and vintage
options and added education in Horticultural Therapy from Bronx Botanical and glass seed beads, she uses her varied soul-searching experiences as
Gardens and Art Therapy from The New School in New York City to her resume. inspiration for innovative pieces that are both lovely and lavish, peaking
“My creativity blossomed later in life — exploded, really!” she reflects, and interest in all corners of the industry.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m december 2009 CJ 63
Canadian Jeweller (CJ): You use a lot of vintage elements in your CJ: Do you use any software like CAD for design, or just hand-drawn
designs. Where does this desire come from and how do you source sketches and wax moulds?
your materials?
PS: I do not use any of this, just my imagination. I am first won over by the
Peggy Sturman (PS): Somehow, I’ve always been captivated by the materials I find — vintage, pearls or coloured stones — and proceed from
staying power, the age of vintage or antique pieces. These have so much there, often with no conception of how the design will turn out. This is the
character. I have a supplier who contacts me with new vintage finds and I “what if ” process — what if I do this, what if I do that, and so forth.
also look for them at shows, such as the Tucson Gem Show in February.
CJ: A lot of your creations are dubbed one-of-a-kind. How many of these
CJ: Your Diorissimo necklace has vintage Swarovski stones, ordered pieces do you have and are any in mass-production? On average, how
pre-WWII by Dior from Daniel Swarovski. What’s the story behind this many of each piece is created?
piece and its conception and creation?
PS: Many of my designs are often very complicated and time-consuming
PS: The stones may be post-war but nevertheless aren’t that old; apparently to make. Officially, in the industry, one-of-a-kind is defined as up to 25
they are released for sale when they are found. They sat in one of my of one piece, and sometimes I can do this, but often, the intricacy of the
drawers for years and I found them when I was looking through my stock, work in a particular piece discourages me from making more than one.
and decided to use them. I had no idea what I would do with them, began When I do make more than one, though, the two are never identical, since
by bezeling them with gold seed beads and then conceived the design by the work is not stamped out or reproduced like a lithograph. So, my work
just playing with them on my work table. is generally categorized as “limited edition.”
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Natural Pearl Rope: Pink seed pearls and graduating sizes Lariat of Gold-Plated & Vintage Blown Glass with Large Conchita with Three Strands: With Drusey Agate, seed
of white pearls. Retail $950. Black Beads: Vintage German beads. Retail $1,350. beads and seed pearls, of tourmaline and keshi flower seed
pearls. Retail $1,250.
CJ: Who is the M. Sturman woman? Why and what do you design for her? PS: Anything from seed beads, vintage, glass or 24k gold-plated to
unusual shaped coloured stones and iridescent, unusually shaped
PS: My pieces are generally large, so the M. Sturman woman is someone pearls, to various vintage pieces, such as the very large, vintage black
who is willing to stand out in a crowd, to have people notice her, to wear blown glass beads that I used to punctuate a lariat of crocheted ropes of
something unique. I design for myself, however; I don’t really follow gold plated and onyx beads. This was worn in a very quick scene in Paul
trends or make small pieces. I have private customers and I do take Giamatti’s movie Cold Comfort — the actress twirled it around and the
commissions, but anyone can order from me. stylist returned it with one of those black blown glass beads broken. I
had to redo the lariat with the last of these vintage beauties. For example,
CJ: The materials you use are so varied. What are your favourites in the stones and pearls play off one another — rough and smooth or facetted
design process and why? and iridescent. It’s what I see.
PS: I select materials that jump out at me from amongst the stones and CJ: How does your collection fit into “fine jewellery”?
pearls displayed by a vendor. Somehow, when I get it all back to my
studio, it all seems to fit together in one way or another, since my vision PS: A word about the concept of “fine jewellery.” I am not a metalsmith,
is particular. but I have tried my hand at it and have great respect and admiration for
those who create with precious metals and stones. Their work is necessarily
CJ: Your new collection has a natural motif behind it. What are your small and certainly beautiful. However, I feel this method is limited by
favourite personal fashion/jewellery trends of the moment and where do the high cost of the materials. Designing with 24k gold-plated seed beads,
you draw inspiration? unusually shaped coloured stones and pearls is as labour-intensive as the
goldsmith’s work and results in a more unique outcome, but is not always
PS: I draw inspiration from the materials themselves: coloured stones considered “fine jewellery” — go figure.
and pearls are natural, so no matter the designated trend, these are where
my inspiration will always originate. As for trends, I leave the prediction CJ: If you could design for any “confident woman with character,” past or
to the fashion press and make what I like. Bibs and colours are a big trend present, who would it be and why?
now, so I fit in; perhaps next season I will not.
PS: Fanny Brice, because she was big, out there, audacious — a match for
CJ: What range of material is found in your collection? my jewellery — and maybe even Streisand, for playing her. [CJ]
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68 CJ DECEMBER 2009 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
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New Orleans Gift Geneva Palexpo 416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469 sales@springfair.com
and Jewelry Show Geneva, Switzerland www.albertagiftshow.com www.springfair.com
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630-241-9865 by invitation only Tucson Convention Center Frankfurt, Germany
www.gift2jewelry.com Tucson, Arizona +49 69 75 75 0
Bijorhca’s Eclat de Mode 1-800-972-1162 info@usa.messefrankfurt.com
Centurion Jewelry January 23 - 26 shows@agta.org www.ambiente.
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www.iijs-signature.org www.mjsa.org www.rotaforte.com www.intergem.com
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