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But I was lucky to be able to spend most of the war outside the
city, in the place I dreamed about during those air raids: a farm in
the Tyrolean mountains. Even before I was born—in 1943—my
father had decided that he needed to send his family away from
Vienna while the war raged. He was a successful businessman
and able to lease a working farm a day’s distance away so that
my mother, my two older sisters, and I would have a safe place to
weather the devastation and its aftermath—and have plenty of
fresh food to eat. My father was an outdoorsman who loved hiking
and healthy eating, so a remote farmhouse in the Alps seemed
like the best place for him to send us.
I lived in the mountains, off and on, from just after I was born until
I was eight years old. The farm my sisters and I grew up on was
one of those magical places of childhood, not only because it was
safe and comforting—the opposite of war-torn Vienna—but also
because it was the place where I awoke to the world with a sense
of wonder. More than anything else in my first decade of life, the
experience of living on a working farm profoundly influenced the
person I was to become. There, in fields on steep mountain
slopes, with a chalet-style log house, I discovered how food is
grown and how it tastes just pulled from the soil or warmed by the
sun. Far from the rubble of Vienna, the food in Tyrol gave me my
first taste of nature’s bounty—something that has stayed with me
all my life.
Mutti, my mother, always loved to tell the story of how I was born,
and she repeated it every year on my birthday. The farmhouse in
Tyrol was a two-hour hike down steep mountain trails to the
nearest village, Kirchberg. Right before I was born, Mutti hid pork,
bread, and other food from the farm in her suitcase and the lining
of her coat—you were not allowed to carry food back and forth to
Vienna—and thus encumbered, nine months pregnant, clambered
down the mountain to the village. She was headed for Vienna so
that she could give birth in the same hospital where my sisters
were born and be closer to my father. From Kirchberg, she caught
a train to Vienna, which lasted six or seven hours, or perhaps
even longer, because of all the military inspections. The train was
frequently halted so that the officers could check everyone’s
papers; when the Germans annexed Austria in 1938, my parents
had to produce documentation going back three generations in
order to prove they had no Jewish blood. My mother’s papers
were in order, but she still held her breath to see if she would be
searched and caught smuggling food. Anything could happen to
you in those days for the slightest infraction; everyone lived in
fear. Eventually, she made it to the hospital, which was marked
on the roof with a big X to make it clear it should not be bombed.
Amid the explosions going off all around in Vienna, I was born,
and a couple of weeks later my mother made the long trip back to
Tyrol with her new infant.
At night, we all climbed into one bed—a rough linen bag filled with
straw—and covered ourselves with an eiderdown duvet,
snuggling close to keep warm on a night so cold that in the
morning a skin of ice had formed on the windowpanes.
We were also far too young to realize that the friends who came
to live with us on the farm, Tante Hertha and her daughter, Herthi,
were in danger. As I grew older, I thought we brought them along
because Herthi was my friend and I liked to play with her. But it
was not until I was a grown woman, living on my own in the
United States, that I learned that Tante Hertha, the wife of one of
my father’s good friends, was Jewish, and in actuality we were
protecting them. I still don’t know how they managed their journey
to the farm, and I certainly doubt that the farmer and his wife
knew we were sheltering Jews; no one asked questions at the
time or wanted to know. Now I think that hiding our friends was
one of the main reasons my father leased such a remote house,
unreachable except by a two-hour hike, perched like a lookout at
the top of the valley. No one would have taken the time to search
the farm without good reason, and we would have seen soldiers
coming long before they arrived, with time to hide our friends. If
my mother was concerned, she didn’t show it, and I remained
blissfully unaware of the danger. I think that this was a reason my
mother didn’t want us to socialize too much with others in the
area; she didn’t want them to know what we were up to. Happily,
Herthi and I are friends to this day, and Tante Hertha and my
mother were the same way. I can’t bring myself to think of what
might have happened to her if she had not been with us on the
farm during those years.
The farm worked according to the rhythms of the day and of the
seasons. Every morning and evening, Nanni would milk the two
cows. She poured the milk she collected into a separator and
turned the handle, and out of one tube came milk and out of the
other, cream. Cream was like gold to them. After the war in
Vienna, we got used to eating dollops of whipped cream on our
desserts, but here that was an unheard-of extravagance. Nanni
would collect the cream until she had enough to make butter—a
task she performed every two weeks. I would watch as she
poured the cream into a big wooden barrel with a handle and
began to churn it. When the cream became clumpy, she would
add ice-cold water from the spring to rinse off the butterfat. She
shaped the butter into loaves with her hands, then rolled them
with a wooden tool that imprinted a design on top. Every farm had
its own design so you could always know where the butter came
from. I loved that detail—that added touch that showed a pride in
their work, a way of caring for the food and its provenance and for
the simple beauty of what you ate.
Our families ate separately, but the smells of their kitchen during
mealtime always drew me to the door. They had their big meal in
the middle of the day, after a morning of chores and before an
afternoon of even more hard work; it was the only time during the
day that they sat down. Nanni would catch me peeking behind the
door. “Nora!” she would call, with a smile, “Come in, come in.
Come and eat with us.” She would make space for me on the
wooden bench where they sat, her long gray braid swinging under
her scarf, her clogs clumping on the wooden floor.