Garment inspection ::

Inspection in reference to quality control in the apparel industry can be defined as the
visualexamination or review of raw materials (such as fabric, buttons, zippers, sewing threads,
etc), partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation
tosome standards, specifications, or requirements including the measurement of the garments
toensure the satisfaction of the customers.
All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The quality of the
garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made for so therefore buyers
expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow various methods of inspection techniques
all through the production and prior to shipment release from factory. Following correct
inspection procedures, inspection systems and eventually shipment release gives the clear
judgment of the quality of the garment.
Flow Chart of Garment Inspection ::
Confirmation of Quantity

Confirmation of accessories

Size spec inspection

In side Inspection

Out side Inspection

Final Inspection

Packing
Inspection Procedure of Garments are Described Below ::
1. Confirmation of Quantity:
First step of garment inspection start with confirmation of Quantity with the vendors packing
list by counting all Pecs. Of each box. If Qty is not matching to the packing list and written in the
box then this discrepancy is informed to the vendor.
2. Confirmation of Accessories:
Next step is the confirmation of accessories, here we confirm brand tags, demerit tags, Price
tags, or other tags, wash care labels, woven labels, or other labels and accessories as required by
the buyer.

3. Size Spec inspection:

After confirmation of accessories all pcs are checked as per size spec based on the instruction
sheet which is given by the buyer side. If any measurement problem is noticed then we check the
original sample and inform the buyer same time.
4. In Side Inspection:
At this stage garment is checked from reverse side to ensure that there is no fabric defect,
poor stitching, and stains etc in the garment.
5. Out Side Inspection:
At this stage garment is checked from outside to ensure that there is no color variation, weaving
defect, fabric defect, printing defect, holes, poor stitching, bad smell , dying defect and stains etc
in the garment.
6. Final Inspection:
Final Inspection stage is the most important part of inspection process, here garment is
rechecked to confirm that inspection is done properly without missing any checking step if any
defect is noticed we put it into rejection bin or send it for repay.
7. Packing:
All Grade-A goods are put back into poly bags as per the original packaging and then they are
send for needle inspection .
So, depending on the quality of defect some garments are send for repair and some are rejected.
Quality ::
Ideal condition of excellence.
Product quality is based on a product attribute.
User-based quality is fitness for use,
manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements
value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable price
ISO 9000:2000 Defines it as degree to which a set of inherent characteristics fulfill
requirement.
Quality inspection in apparel industries ::
Visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of garments and
completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as
well as measuring garments to check if they meet the required measurements.
Quality inspection in apparel industries ::

done to control quality of garments.

Checking of fabric,
sewing thread,
button,
stitch,
zipper,
garments size etc according to required standard or specification is known as inspection.
Quality inspection is important for every section of apparel industries.
Steps in apparel industries to control quality ::
1. Raw Material Inspection;
2. In Process Inspection;
3. Final Inspection;
Raw Material Inspection:
Fabric Inspection
Sewing Thread Inspection
Trims & Accessories check
Fabric Inspection ::
done through Fabric Inspection machine.
very important for every industries .
In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are there any defect available or
not. In fabric, fabric defects viz. off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barre effect etc. can
be visual after entering into the store room. For those defects it will be problem able for making
garments making.
In fabric inspection, also check fabric strength, color, quantity To check fabric there are
different system i.e. 4 point system, 10 point system etc.
Sewing Thread Inspection ::
During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one of the great problems for
garments manufacturing. So that it is necessary to check
thread construction,
sewability,
color,
imperfection,
finish, package
density,
winding,
yardage of sewing thread
In thread construction

thread number,
thread ply,
thread tenacity,
thread elongation,
number of twist is necessary to check.
Trims & Accessories check ::
Button,
Zippers
interlining,
label &
tags also need to check so that quality can be maintain according
to required quality.
For button,
button strength,
button color,
quantity etc are checked.
Fabric inspection policies ::
The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for our garments. It
also allow us to prevent loss of material and time during the garment manufacturing process.
Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading and cutting
because:
n Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also inspecting the
fabric.
n A cutter's productivity will increase because the defects are already marked.
Purpose of fabric inspection ::
Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects
due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done
for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, end to end or edge to edge shading, colour, hand or feel,
length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection ensures to minimise the rejection of
cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approved fabric
ensures not only finished garment quality but also reduces rejects, improves efficiency and
timely deliveries.
The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for garments.
As fabric is received, it should be inspected to determine acceptability from a quality viewpoint.
Some garment manufacturers rely on their fabric suppliers to perform fabric inspection and
fabric defects. In many small companies, spreading and cutting is done by the same personnel
and fabric is inspected as it is being spread on a table for cutting.

Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading and cutting
because:
Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also inspecting the
fabric.
A cutter's productivity will increase because the defects are already marked.
The patterns are cut around the defects so as not to include them in the finished garment
How much to inspect?
When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100%
inspection of the fabric. A minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the
fabric is recommended.
Fabric Inspection Systems ::
There a re various fabric inspection systems:
10-Point System.
Graniteville "78" system.
Dallas system.
4- Point system.
Ten Point System ::
It was developed in the 1950's. This system assigns penalty points to each defect, depending on
the length of the defect.
Penalty points are assigned as per the following:
Warp defects
10-36 inches
5-10 inches
1-5 inches
Up to 1 inch

Penalty points
10 points
5 points
3 points
1 points

Filling defects

Penalty points

Full width

10 points

5 inches to half the width 5 points

of fabric
1-5 inches
3 points
Up to 1 inch

1 points

Under the Ten-Point System, a piece is graded a "first" if the total penalty points do not exceed
the total yardage of the piece. A piece is graded a "second" if the total penalty points exceed the
total yardage of the piece.
The following points are noteworthy:
This system is bit complicated because points per length are different for warp and weft
defects.
It is difficult in practical use.
Graniteville "78" system ::
This system was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading. The system divides defects
into major and minor types .The major defect is one, which is very obvious and leads the goods
to second quality. The minor defect is one, which may or may not have caused garment to
second, depending on its location in the end use item.
Penalty Points are assigned as per the following:
Defect length

Penalty points

9 inches

9-18 inches

18-27 inches

27-36 inches

The following points are noteworthy in this system:

The principle was established in garment cutting piece, in which, the short length defects
(less than 9") will normally be removed.
The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9") and put less weight
on 1-10" defects such as slubs.
The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot viewing
distance.
The system tends to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.
This is mostly recommended for use, where larger garments are to be cut with fabrics of
wider widths.
Dallas System ::
This system was developed in 1970s specifically for knits. It was approved by Dallas
Manufacturers Association. According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished
garment, the garment would then be termed as a "second". For fabrics, this system defines a

second as "more than one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards". For
example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects.
4-Point System ::
The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-grading
system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and is
endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC (American Society or Quality Control).
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance of
the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect. Defect can be in
either length or width direction, the system remains the same. Only major defects are considered.
No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment and make
sure to select at least one roll of each color way.
Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following:
Length of Defect

Penalty points Allotted

Up to 3 inches

1 Point

3 6 inches

2 Points

6 9 inches

3 Points

Over 9 inches

4 Points

Hole and Openings

(Over 1 inch)
Hole and Openings
(Over 1 inch)

2 Points
4 Points

Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance criteria is
generally not more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are
considered "seconds".
The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by:

The following are noteworthy points for this system:

No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.
The fabric is graded regardless of the end-product.
This system makes no provision for the probability of minor defects.
4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry as it is easy to teach and
learn.

General Inspection Procedures ::

1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and
proper lighting.
2. Fabric passing through the inspection frame must be between 45 - 60 degree angles to
inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light above viewing area. Back
light can be used as and when needed.
3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.
4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.
5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior to
inspection.
6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for
assessing color, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.
7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and selvage
and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented.
8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.
9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
10. All defects must be flagged during inspection.
11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on supplier
ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for additional
replacement to avoid shortage.
12. If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be done
from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.
Conclusion ::
Apparel manufacturers inspect the fabric stock upon arrival, so that any fabric irregularities are
caught early in the production process. Textile producers also generally inspect fabrics before
sending them to manufacturers. After identification of fabric defects, a system needs to be
followed to grade the defects to ascertain its acceptance or rejection. 4-Point fabric inspection
system is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now. This test method describes a
procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of fabrics from a visual inspection. It
may be used for the delivery and acceptance of fabrics with requirements mutually agreed upon
by the purchaser and the supplier. This system does not establish a quality level for a given
product, but rather provides a means of defining defects according to their severity by assigning
demerit point values. All type of fabrics whether grey or finished, can be graded by this system.
References ::
1. Managing Quality in Apparel Industry by P V Mehta and S K Bhardwaj.
2. Fabric Inspection and Grading by Daniel D Powderly.
3. Fabric Inspection: The New Order by Fred Fortress.

4. Fabric Science by J J Pizutto.

5. www.textileschool.com/School/Apparel/ApparelManufacturing/FabricInspection.aspx.
6. www.fabricinspection.com.
7. www.acginspection.com/Standard_4.html.
8. www.asiathai.com/images/fabric_inspection1.jpg.
9. 158.132.122.156/itc/macau/fabric-inspection/tsld022.htm.
10. www.textilesindepth.com/index.php?page=fabric-selection-inspection.