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Vermicomposting: Composting with Worms

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Vermicomposting: Composting with Worms

by Soni Cochran, Extension Associate
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NOTE: The following information is for the home vermicomposting enthusiast. This
resource is not intended to be a reference for commercial bins or bins located in
businesses, schools, and/or government agencies.

Many gardeners compost both yard waste and kitchen waste with compost piles,
sheet composting or some other method during the growing season. Fortunately, very
little yard waste is generated during winter months when cold temperatures make
composting difficult. However, usable kitchen waste is constantly being generated and
must be disposed of. Vermicomposting is the process of using worms and microorganisms to turn kitchen waste into a black, earthy-smelling, nutrient-rich humus.

Get Started:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

You Need 5 Basic Ingredients to Start Vermicomposting:

a container
bedding
water
worms
nonfatty kitchen scraps.

Containers:
In the book, Worms Eat My Garbage, writer *Mary Appelhof suggests weighing your
household food waste for one week (in pounds), and then provide one square foot of
surface area per pound. The container depth should be between eight and twelve
inches. Bins need to be shallow because the worms feed in the top layers of the
bedding. A bin that is too deep is not as efficient and could potentially become an
odor problem.
Worm boxes can be purchased or made. Plastic storage containers are convenient and
come in a variety of sizes. These containers are easily transported and are a nice
alternative to heavier wood bins. Many people choose to have several small bins as
opposed to one heavier, large wood bin. Small bins work best in homes, apartments
and school classrooms. They are easy to tuck under desks, place below kitchen sinks
and keep out of the way in laundry rooms.
TIP: If you make a worm bin out of a plastic storage container, never snap the lid
shut tight. The lid should lay loosely on the bin.
The large worm bin below (figure 1) is heavier, but is desirable in situations where a
bin is going to be outdoors part of the year or in a heated garage. Wood bins allow for
a better air movement and a bin this size (figure 1) will take care of food scraps from
a family of four.
TIP: If you are truly going to make this an "environmental experience", try making
your bin out of an old dresser drawer.

1-2-3 Portable Worm Bin

Depending on the size of the container, drill 8 to 12 holes (1/4 - l/2 inches) in the
bottom for aeration and drainage. A plastic bin may need more drainage -- if contents
get too wet, drill more holes. Raise the bin on bricks or wooden blocks, and place a
tray underneath to capture excess liquid which can be used as liquid plant fertilizer.
The bin needs a cover to conserve moisture and provide darkness for the worms. If
the bin is indoors, a sheet of dark plastic or burlap sacking placed loosely on top of
the bedding is sufficient as a cover. For outdoor bins, a solid lid is preferable, to keep
out unwanted scavengers and rain. Like us, worms need air to live, so be sure to have
your bin sufficiently ventilated.

Mary Appelhof's 1-2-3 Portable Worm Bin (1' deep, 2- wide and 3 long).This
bin has a bottom so it can be moved and used in a heated garage or basement during
cold weather. When a worm box is used outside, it does not need to have a bottom.
You may want to line the bottom with rocks or boards to keep rodents and other
worm-loving creatures from tunneling in. Wooden boxes will typically last for 2 or 3
years.

Bedding:
The bedding for vermicomposting systems must be able to retain both moisture and
air while providing a place for the worms to live. Bedding does not have to be
purchased and most of us have plenty of bedding resources in our home, office or
school. Here are some suitable sources of bedding.
**Shredded corrugated cardboard is an excellent bedding, but is difficult to find.
**Shredded paper like newspaper and computer paper is easy to find, but may dry
out quicker than corrugated cardboard. There is not a problem with the ink from the
paper.
**Peat moss has a low pH level that may cause a problem for the worms and it is
more expensive.
**Commercial worm bedding is available in sporting goods stores, but it is also
more expensive.
The amount of bedding depends on the size of the box. A 2-by-2 foot box will
need between 4 and 6 pounds of dry bedding, a 2-by-3 foot box will take 9 to 14
pounds. No matter what the size, the bin should be 2/3 filled with "fluffed" prepared
bedding (see below). For smaller bins, experiment--if you prepare excess bedding, it
can be dried, stored and used another time.

Prepare the Bedding:

Water is needed to moisten the bedding. Place the dry, shredded bedding in a
large container and add water until it covers the bedding. Allow the bedding to absorb
as much water as possible before putting it in the worm bin. This could take from two
to 24 hours, depending on the bedding used.
Before putting the bedding in your bin, squeeze the water out from the bedding as
much as possible. The bedding should feel like a well-wrung washcloth. Place the
bedding in the bin and fluff.
Your bedding needs to remain moist. If it is drying out, mist the paper with water
from a spray bottle and dampen the bedding again.

The Worms:

The worms used in vermicomposting are called redworms (Eisenia foetida), also know
as red wigglers, manure worms, red hybrid or tiger worms.
You can order them through lawn and garden catalogs
You may be able to find them in a bait store
If you know someone who has an established supply, they may be willing to
sell you some of their worms.
An example of a garden catalog source that sells red worms is Gardens Alive! (ph.
812-537-8650). There are many others. The internet is a good place to start looking.
What About Nightcrawlers? Do not try to use nightcrawlers or other worms native
to Nebraska to stock your worm bin. These worms depend on cooler temperatures
and an extensive tunneling system to survive. They will die in your worm bin

Why Redworms? Redworms prefer temperatures between 55 and 77 degrees

Fahrenheit and are suited to living in a worm bin. The temperature of the bedding
should not be allowed to get below freezing or above 84 degrees.
How Many Worms Do I Need? The amount of worms needed will depend on the
amount of kitchen waste generated per day. One pound of redworms will easily take
care of each half-pound of garbage. To add worms to the bin, simply scatter them
over the top. The skin on the worm reacts to light and they will immediately work
their way down into the bedding to get away from the light.

Kitchen Waste:
The kitchen waste fed to worms can come from a variety of sources, including all
vegetable and fruit waste (don't be surprised that some seeds may germinate and
potato peels with eyes sprout), pasta leftovers, coffee grounds (with filter) and tea
bags. Worms may have a problem with garlic and onion skins. Worms have a gizzard
like chickens so fine grit should be added to help the worms digest food. This gritty
material includes cornmeal, coffee grounds and/or finely crushed egg shells (dry the
shells and then crush). Avoid large amounts of fat, meat scraps or bone. Some
sources feel that a small amount of meat and eggs will provide protein to the worms,
but be careful you don't overdo it and know that you may attract rodents.

Adding Kitchen Scraps:

First, and foremost, START SLOWLY. It will take time for bacteria to form and your
bin can quickly become very smelly if you add too much food, too fast. In the
beginning, add a very small amount of gritty material (see above) and a small amount
of vegetable matter. Don't worry about the worms starving because they will be
eating bedding as well. You can gradually increase the amount of food as the bin
becomes established.
The easiest method is to spread the scraps in a thin layer on top of the bedding. If the
bin is kept in a dark place or covered, the worms will come to the surface to eat. You
can also pull back a small amount of bedding in the bin and dump in the scraps. Cover
the scraps with an inch of bedding. Start at one corner of the bin and bury garbage in
a pattern to fill in all the spaces. By the time you get back to the first burying spot,
the worms will have composted most of the waste.
If you notice odors, cut back on the amount of food or try chopping the food up into
smaller pieces. Note: citrus does have a strong odor and the peelings seem to last a
long time in the bin. Bins seem to be more manageable when there is less fruit and
citrus and more of the leafy vegetables.

Harvesting the Compost:

Given the right environment, the worms will go to work to digest the kitchen scraps
and bedding faster than any other compost method. The material will pass through
the worms' bodies and become "castings." In about 3-4 months, the worms will have
digested nearly all the garbage and bedding and the bin will be filled with a rich, black
natural fertilizer and soil amendment. Compared to ordinary soil, the worm castings
contain five times more nitrogen, seven times more phosphorus and 11 times more
potassium. They are rich in humic acids and improve the structure of the soil.
To keep your bin going, you will need to remove the castings from time to time and
there are several ways to go about it. One way to do this is to shine a bright light into
the bin. The worms are sensitive to light and will move to the lower layers of the bin.

Remove the top layer of casting by using your hands or a sieve. Each time you
remove some bedding, the worms will be exposed to the light and they will keep
migrating down to the bottom of the bin. Pick out any wigglers or worm eggs (small,
opaque cocoons) and return them to the bin. Refill the bin with fresh layers of moist
bedding and food.
Another method of harvesting composts is to push the black, decomposed material to
one side of the bin, and fill the other side with new, moist bedding and kitchen scraps.
Then wait several days. The worms will migrate to the freshly filled side of the bin and
you can just scoop out the finished compost. Make sure you pick out any wigglers or
worm eggs and return them to the bin.
Try the "onion bag" method to harvest your worms. Visit the City Farmer Web
site.

Using the Compost:

For potted plants, add a thin layer to the top of the potting soil. You can also add the
compost directly into your soil mix when repotting. In the garden, simply work it into
the ground around the base of each plant. The compost is very mild and you won't
have to worry about accidental burning or overfertilizing.

Some Don'ts:
**Don't put plastic bags, bottle caps, rubber bands, sponges, aluminum foil and glass
in the bin. These materials will be there forever and make your worm bin look like
trash.
**Don't let your cat use your worm bin as a litter box. First, cat urine would soon
make the odor intolerable. Secondly, the ammonia in the urine could kill your worms.
There is also a concern with toxoplasmosis, a disease that is of particular concern to a
pregnant woman who may pass on the disease to her unborn child. If you have cats,
provide a screen or other device to keep them from using the worm bin as a litter
box.
**Don't use insecticides around your worm bin. You'll not only take care of a few
pests, but also your worms.
**Don't use garden soil as bedding for the worms.
**Don't mix fresh cow, horse and especially chicken manure into your bedding. These
manures will heat up the bedding and literally cook your worms.

Other...
After you've had your worm bin established, you may begin noticing other creatures
besides the redworms - especially if you keep your bin outdoors. Most of these are
helpful because they help breakdown the materials. These helpful creatures include
springtails, sowbugs and pill bugs, and millipedes.
There are also some creatures that may cause you problems. These would include
centipedes, predatory mites, fruit flies, rove beetles and ants. Nonlethal methods of
control (swatting, traps for fruit flies and ants, etc.) are the best for areas around

your worm bins. Rodents are not a problem when the bin is constructed and managed
properly.
In Mary Appelhof's book "Worms Eat My Garbage", she suggests that if you are
allergic to molds and mildew, you may want to keep your home bin outside or away
from living areas. Molds and mildew are part of the composting cycle that help to
break down organic materials and naturally occur in a worm bin.
References *Worms Eat My Garbage, Mary Appelhof. Published by Flower Press,
10332 Shaver Road, Kalamazoo, Michigan 49002 . Read about Mary Appelhof
at http://www.wormwoman.com. This book is an excellent reference for anyone
wanting to start and maintain a worm composting system.
Use of commercial and trade names does not imply approval or constitute
endorsement by UNL Extension.

Return for More Resources on Earthworms

The information on this Web site was updated September 2008 and is valid for
residents of southeastern Nebraska. It may or may not apply in your area. If you live
outside southeastern Nebraska, visit your local Extension office
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Common kitchen waste, including papery onion and garlic skins, carrot tops, and coffee grounds, can be
composted year-round in an indoor worm bin. A worm bin fits discreetly into a closet, garage, or pantry,
making composting quick and convenient, especially for small-space gardeners and apartment-dwellers.
Turning food scraps into compost, instead of sending them down the garbage disposal or to the curb, reduces
the amount of organic material that ends up in local wastewater treatment plants and landfills.
The process is known as vermicomposting, and it requires a specific type of worm. Unlike regular garden
earthworms, which burrow in the soil, red wiggler worms (Eisenia foetida) act as natures recyclers, living on
or near the surface, where they help decompose organic matter. This habit makes them ideal candidates for
living in an enclosed worm bin.
Red wigglers eat half their weight in food each day, says Luke Halligan, compost educator with the NYC
Compost Project hosted by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. As they eat, worms produce castingsa crumbly,
granular organic matter that is rich in nutrients.
Worm compost, or vermicompost, is a mix of castings and decomposed organic matter. Vermicompost
contains a greater diversity of beneficial microbes than traditional compost, which may be why it is linked
with increasing plants resistance to fungal diseases. The nutrients in worm compost are also more available
to plantsa quality that researchers think helps plants grow faster and stronger and resist attacks from
aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites.
Ready-made worm bins are available, but it takes less than an hour to build a bin using common household
supplies.
1. A 14-gallon plastic storage container (approximately 24 by 16 by 12 inches) is usually adequate for a
household of two to four people; larger or vegetarian families may need to build two bins to compost all their
food waste. (If you prefer not to use plastic, a similar bin can be built from untreated lumber, perforated in
the same way as the plastic container for ventilation and drainage.)
2. Create a well-drained and ventilated worm bin by drilling a grid of 30 evenly spaced 14-inch holes in the
bottom of the container and its lid. Then drill two horizontal rows of ventilation holes in the sides of the bin,
spacing the holes 112 inches apart and the rows 2 inches apart, with the first one positioned 3 inches below
the rim of the bin.
3. Place the bin on a tray, with wooden blocks or bricks between the bin and the tray to help air circulate
underneath it. The tray should be large enough to catch any liquid that drains from the bin (we used an extra
bin lid). Plan to rinse out the tray weekly, using the nutrient-rich liquid in compost tea. Locate the bin out of
direct sunlight in a place that stays above freezing but under 75F.
4. Red wrigglers prefer to dwell in leaf litter in their native environment, but damp paper makes a fine
substitute in worm bins. To prepare the bedding, plunge strips of black-and-white newspaper or office paper
into a sink filled with water. Wring out the wet strips, fluff them up, and place them in the bin. Fill the bin
about two-thirds full with the paper bedding, which should feel as damp as a wrung-out sponge.
5. Add some dry leaves, if you have them, and then sprinkle 1 cup of garden topsoil over the bedding. This
small amount of grit helps the worms digestion and introduces microorganisms that speed the composting
process.
6. Next, add worms. Garden centers often sell red wigglers, and they can also be purchased online. One
pound of red wigglers will eat approximately 312 pounds of food scraps per week, Halligan says.
Households can use this as a guide if they produce more or less food waste. (To judge how much food waste
your family produces, use a kitchen scale to weigh it for a week.) Add worms to the bin by sprinkling them
evenly over the bedding. Cover with aerated lid.
Kitchen cleanup is easy with a worm binsimply bury raw fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and
filters, teabags, and eggshells under the worm bedding. Avoid adding cooked food or food with sauces, oils,
or spices, and never feed worms dairy or meat products. Citrus peels in large quantities may harm worms if
they cause the bedding to become too acidic.
It usually takes about 3 months for the worms to consume all of the newspaper bedding as well as the food
scraps and turn it into worm compost, Halligan says. To prepare the finished vermicompost for harvesting,
move it all to one side of the bin and place fresh bedding in the other half. Add kitchen scraps to the new
bedding exclusively. After about a month, most of the worms will migrate over to the fresh bedding and food,
leaving behind worm-free compost for the collecting.
Use vermicompost to amend potting soil for both indoor and outdoor plants by adding 1 part worm compost
to 4 parts soilless potting mix, or simply sprinkle a thin layer around the base of container plants. Use this
rich compost in the garden, too, as a nutrient boost in the planting holes of new transplants or a topdressing
for established plants.
Worm composting bins, supplies, and red wigglerworms resources

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