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Jerry Lindsey
Contents
Forward6
History..7
Legal..8
Tools...9
Design..10
Internal Parts..13
Frame Construction..20
Stocks..37
Sights...39
Templates.42-43
Forward
This is a guide for anyone wanting to build their own
rifle, it was something I always wanted to do myself,
and after a bit of research of designs for existing arms, I
decided to borrow from an early single shot design that
would be fairly simple to reproduce without expensive
machinery or any experience in gunsmithing. I did work
in a machine shop twenty five years ago and bring some
knowledge of engineering and machine work but the
point of this project is that no mill or lathe will be
required. The job will be completed with hand tools and
a drill.
This is not a quick and dirty zip gun, but a classic
design that happens to lend itself to the home workshop
and should last for generations. If you put in the time
and care, this can be a beautiful rifle that you and your
descendants will be very proud of or you can more easily
make a very utilitarian rifle. This design makes for a
fairly simple project in the home and you will see that
the individual components are not complicated and if
you concentrate on one part at a time, then the fitting of
each part, there is nothing here that will be too difficult.
The skills required are those that most of you already
posses if you do any work around the house or simple
repairs on your vehicles.
History
Legal
In the United States it is currently (2009) legal for an
individual to build their own firearm providing that it
complies to the legal requirements of arms, i.e.
minimum barrel length of 16 for rifles, no shoulder
stock on pistols, no short barrel shotguns etc.
One thing that you must remember is that this self built
gun may never, ever be sold. It may be past to your
heirs but never sold. Firearm construction and
possession in your locale is your responsibility to
research. You should check your local laws since they
will likely be changing in this political climate.
Tools
I have for some years worked on my own guns and
those of friends and family so I already had some
gunsmithing tools, mostly files, stones and hand tools,
but I did have a bench grinder and some power tools
including a rotary tool. You wont need anything
expensive to finish this project but there are some
things that will be difficult to do without. One of the first
things I knew I would need was a bench vise, but given
the small size of the parts that we will be making I
decided that a 4 in. vise would be adequate and has
been very useful. The Shop Fox Gunsmithing Vice from
Midway USA is ideal for this. If you have other uses for a
vise you might want a larger one but for this project an
inexpensive 4 in. model is just fine.
While you might be able to complete this project with a
hand drill, a small imported drill press will make the job
so much easier and make your parts more precise. I
obtained a cheap drill press for about 50 bucks from
harbor freight tools. There will be a list of sources for
tools and all materials needed at the end of this book.
A milling vise or drill press vise is very useful to firmly
hold parts on the drill press table; it will also help you
move the parts precisely when locating the position for
the holes. You may be able to clamp a small bench vise
to the table of the drill press.
Some files will be needed and while they can be
purchased from discount tool outfits, it is best not to
skimp on files. A good file can get through material very
quickly if the right one is chosen. Im not going to write
a chapter on all the types of files available, but you
should be able to get by with a large (12 in.) bastard cut
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(rough) and a similar size fine cut. You will need at least
one small round file for inside radiuses and for the
notches made for the sear you will need a small fine
square or triangle file.
While not absolutely necessary for this project a bench
grinder is always valuable as well as a rotary tool like a
dremel.
Design
This chapter is to discuss the design and briefly explain
how this thing gets put together before we get into the
fabrication of each individual part.
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INTERNAL PARTS
Step one;
Please read through the entire chapter before
proceeding with any work.
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In this photo you see the hammer being cut out of stock
using the described process. The original Remington
hammer is visible in the upper left of the picture, notice
that the area below the hammer spur is concave, and
this is where the original flat spring bore against the
hammer. The design we will be using will utilize a coil
spring so this area is cut straight and later a hole bored
for the spring to seat in.
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See in the picture how the shelf below the hammer face
supports the breech block when closed. This was taken
during fitting of the parts; the drill bits are the size of
the pivot holes and are just used for fitting. You are
seeing the center section and opposite side plate in
position, the tube is in place of the barrel for mock-up
purposes. There are templates for the breechblock, hammer and trigger that should be printed
then transferred to card stock or something thick
enough to hold its shape then finally transferred to
your steel stock by coating the steel with Dykem*
or a similar product. There will also be a dimensional
scale of the parts that you should check when printing
the templates, you may need to resize your print to
obtain the proper size templates.
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Now lets look at the trigger. The steel stock used for the
trigger should be roughly half the thickness of the
hammer and breech block. When cutting out the basic
shape make sure you leave enough material at the top,
this is the engagement surface to the sear, in fitting we
will want to be sure we have a positive engagement that
will hold the hammer securely. Use a large round file on
the inside front of the trigger where your finger will
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Frame construction
Now we need to put together the frame so we can fit the
parts you have made. As mentioned before I feel
aluminum is a fine material for the frame of this rifle, I
used 6061 aluminum stock with fine results though
there are other options, some that wont work as well
regarding cutting and machining, 6063 and 5052 should
be avoided, find stock that can be worked without
gumming your files and tools, there are things you can
do to reduce this like chalking your file, a simple process
of rubbing the cutting surface of the file with chalk. The
side plates are .125-2in. wide and 6in. long. Cover the
pieces with a coating of dykem and trace the template
with a scribe. Cut the parts out with your band saw or
jigsaw leaving just a hair of material outside the scribe
line to finish fitting with the center section.
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can file all of the pieces even later but the less filing the
better, and make sure the liner is facing the correct
way. Barrel liners are made by pulling a die through the
tubing, so the bullet should travel the same way to avoid
excess fouling. The breech end is usually marked with a
ring around its diameter near the end. While the epoxy
is wet install the barrel bolt, it should be just long
enough to go through the frame and have enough
threads to just go through the securing nut. The bottom
of the frame wont be a flat surface for the barrel
securing nut so you should use a mill bit similar to the
picture below to create a flat surface at the frame
bottom where the bolt comes through.
If you do use a regular rifle barrel prepare it for your
frame in the same manner described above by locating
the position for the hole just like described but do some
math before you drill. You can figure the barrels wall
thickness by measuring the overall diameter dividing by
2 and subtracting .224 this last number can vary but not
by more than a couple of thousandths. This will give you
the thickness of the material you are drilling and be very
careful not to ruin your barrel by drilling into the bore. If
there isnt .200 of wall to drill into you might should
finish the hole with a bottoming drill and tap, they will
leave a square bottom of the hole as opposed to the v
shaped bottom that serves no purpose but a regular drill
bit and tap are configured like this.
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then mark the breech block, drill it, then drill through
the first side of the frame and breech block, then the
last side of the frame. If youre using a drill press, try to
lay the frame on its side and clamp the frame to the drill
press table, the frame should flex enough that by
clamping right on the breech block area it can hold the
breech block in place. I used #15 drill because I had drill
rod on hand to make the pins but you could use .125.1875 for this and the hammer. The pin for the trigger
might have to be smaller because of the size of the part.
Now obtain or make a pin from drill rod that tightly fits
the frame and breech block, but allows the breech block
to move up and down. Later another pin should be made
that will be pressed into the frame and remain there; it
may be just one size larger on the wire gauge scale. You
will have to polish the hole in the breech block so it will
pivot on this pin, or you can obtain a reamer of the
appropriate size to finish the hole. You will have to do
the hammer and trigger pins and holes the same way so
Ill take this opportunity to explain. These pins must fit
the moving parts tightly but allow their movement; also
they must be pressed into the frame so that they will
not move. You can drill the frame and moving parts the
same size then find a fractionally larger pin or drill rod
stock that will have to be pressed into the frame and
would also fit the moving parts too tightly so the moving
parts holes must be polished to allow their movement on
the pins. The larger you make these holes the easier
they will be to polish so keep that in mind when
choosing pin sizes. You probably have a gun cleaning jag
with a slot for cleaning patches, if not you can carefully
cut the end of a piece of rod smaller than the holes
youll be polishing, enough smaller that a patch will also
fit. Now chuck this jag or homemade part in your drill
and apply some grinding paste* to a patch. Put this
patch in the jag and polish the inside of the holes, you
may continue with a finer compound like jewelers rouge
if you want a really slick action.
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Before you can install the trigger you will have to make
a channel in the bottom of the center frame for the
trigger to pass through. If your trigger is very wide you
may have to completely cut out the center frame for the
trigger, this is fine if you install frame pins in front and
behind the channel, but if the trigger is narrow enough
you can leave some material on either side, I dont know
how much this will strengthen the frame but I dont
think it is a concern. You can measure the width of the
trigger and use a drill of the same size and drill a couple
of holes next to each other and square out the channel
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Stocks
As I mentioned earlier, stocks for the H&R handi-rifles
and pardner shotguns can be very readily adapted to
use on this project. Most stocks for rifles or shotguns of
this configuration might be adaptable, but the H&R stock
is made in a couple of different configurations, including
a raised comb stock for use with a scope and an old
fashioned style that is probably more appropriate with
this rifle. Stocks for the Remington model 6 were still
available as of this writing but if you purchase one of
these, please do so before beginning construction of the
frame so you can redesign the rear of the frame to
accommodate the Remington stock. If you have
obtained the H&R stock, to adapt it to this use, simply
locate the stock to the rear of the frame and transfer the
dimensions of the center section of the frame to the
front of the stock, where the attaching bolt hole is. You
will now have to remove material from the stock with a
band saw if available, or hand saw to begin, and then
finish the work with wood chisels. Work a little at a time,
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test fitting often, and when you reach the point where
the frame fits into the channel you have created,
identify the correct angle for the rear of the frame to
contact the stock. You can sink the frame into the stock
just to the point of the side plates and finish the stock to
match the line of the side plate, or you can continue to
deepen the center cut and open up the front of the stock
so that is comes over the side plates slightly, this will
create a more finished appearance but will be
considerably more work. I made my stock fit right to the
side plates, and then narrowed the front of the stock to
make it blend more cleanly to the narrow frame. The
H&R stock is kind of chunky and will look much better if
you rasp the dimension down a bit, blending to the size
of the frame.
The fore end of the H&R fits this rifle very well with the
barrel diameter of 7/8 in. The only fitting necessary to
the fore end is to remove the plastic part at the rear of
the H&R fore end and then remove some material at the
sides of the rear where it contacts the front of your
frame, this is only for cosmetic reasons. You should test
fit the fore end and mark the location of the hole to
attach it. Drill and tap the hole to attach the fore end
with the appropriate tap for the screw that came with
the fore end. Of course, you can use another screw if
you choose, or dont have the original, but the H&R
screw will fit the fore end properly. You may also want
to install a pin in the front of the frame that will fit into a
hole in the rear of the fore-end, this will add strength to
the attachment of the fore end. You will have to decide if
you need to do this yourself. There are several styles of
fore end available for the H&R rifle, so you can look
around and decide what you prefer. The one in the
picture is the standard Schnabel design that comes on
most models. You could remove the front couple of
inches from it and with a little rasping and sanding
create a splinter style fore end.
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Sights
Sights are available from Midway USA, brownells and
others by barrel diameter. Marbles and Williams sights
are very inexpensive and you can choose from a variety
of styles. When shopping for your sights, pick a type
that you feel looks appropriate with the rifle, and then
choose the model that is available for your correct barrel
diameter. Front and rear sights are available for
universal applications.
You will have to mark the mounting points on the barrel
and I suggest that you clamp the sights with spring
clamps or even rubber bands to hold the sights in place
while you carefully make adjustments in their position to
find the top center. It is very important to take your
time here and get the sights centered properly.
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Materials
All the materials required to complete this project are
available from onlinemetals.com, as well as
http://www.amazon.com and many other sources.
Barrel
The barrel liners I used, as well as complete barrels are
available from numrich gun parts, http://www.egunparts.com/
Sights
Sights are available from http://www.midwayusa.com/
brownells, numrich gun parts, as well as many other
sources.
Stocks
The H&R stock I recommend is available from H&R,
which is owned by marlin and available online at
http://www.hr1871.com/Support/accessoryProgram.asp
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Finish
Gun finishes are available locally, check your gun store
or http://www.cabelas.com, bass pro shops or online at
http://www.brownells.com/
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Notes *
Casenit is a chemical product available from Brownells
and other sources, used to surface harden mild steel.
Dykem is a dye used to layout work on materials; it is
available at hardware stores.
Grinding paste is a material used in the automotive
industry and can be found at any auto parts store.
H&R 1871 is a trademark of the Harrington and
Richardson Company.
Remington is a trademark of RA Brands, L.L.C., Madison,
NC 27025.
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Notes:
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Notes:
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