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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Glen O. Brechbill

Fragrance Books Inc.


www.perfumerbook.com
New Jersey - USA
2009

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

To my parents & brothers family whose


faith in my work & abilities
made this
manuscript possible
2

ARRANGING FINE PERFUME COMPOSITIONS

This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case of brief quotations
embodied in critical articles and reviews.
Designed by Glen O. Brechbill
Library of Congress
Arranging FinePerfume Compositions / Glen O. Brechbill
P. cm. 338 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Fragrances. 8. Science. 9. Creativity. I. Title.
Certificate Registry # 1 - 200445731
Copyright 2009 by Glen O. Brechbill
All Rights Reserved
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

About The Book

What can I say about a fine perfume. Of course the art of creating a fine fragrance in this industry is a very
carefully guarded craft. In order to learn how to assemble a formula takes a very good memory, talent and years
of hard work. In fact the three leaders in the industry including Givaudan, IFF and Symrise have their own
schools where a student apprentices under a master perfumer.
A fine fragrance is nothing more then an assemblage of pleasing materials that together works harmoniously in
a blend. I decided to add my arrangements in order to display the art as simple as it is complex. If one works
a composition as a percentage of various materials a fine fragrance formula can be deciphered.
Unfortunately one will very rarely find any compositions on the world wide web. Part of this is due to the paranoia within the industry. A material understanding will allow you to decipher the complexity of just about any
fragrance excluding Estee Lauder's Beautiful. Creating a formula with fifteen or more pages just over complicates the art, and of course the fragrance. I decided to add my personal classification of aroma chemicals
through the book to help explain the simplicity of a creation and each fragrance family's uniqueness. Any given
material can play an important role, or a subordinate one. Again, that is the nature of the creative art.
Personally I believe a fine fragrance can be assembled utilizing a page and a half of various materials. What
works together in a blend depends on skill and in part luck by the artist. Most fragrance houses in the states
utilize test panels. Trying to get a scent created with endless critics further degrades the fine art. Asking some one a pointed question the answer can be what you want to hear, but not necessarily the truth.
Fragrance launches today are to many often tied to stars and gimmicks. Chandler Burr in his recent book show
casing the industry states the business needs to get back to its roots. I think he is one hundred percent correct
in his assessment. The miss truths put out by the marketing, public relations and ad advertising folks ads to the
declining sales and many failures.
Whether any particular fragrance in my book works is unknown. However, I do know one will not find a finer
collection of fragrance compositions anywhere on the internet. The craft and its art are that highly prized. If
one finds a book the formulas are either old, useless or misleading further obfuscating the art.
Enjoy presentation into the creative art.

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Glen O. Brechbill

Index

Index

Pages

Copyright

About the Book

Index

4-5

Fragrance Families

6 - 13

Fragrance Pyramid

14 - 16

Costing Out a Fragrance

17

Floral Fragrance Chemicals


Floral Floral Compositions
Floral Bouquet Compositions

18 - 28
29 - 60
61 - 68

Green Fragrance Chemicals


Floral Green Compositions

69 - 72
73 - 92

Fruit Fragrance Chemicals


Floral Fruit Compositions

93 - 96
97 - 120

Rose Fragrance Chemicals

121 - 126

Violet Fragrance Chemicals

127 - 130

Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals


Floral Fresh Compositions
Floral Sweet Compositions

131 - 132
133 - 141
142 - 148
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Floral Aldehydic Compositions


Chypre Floral Compositions
Chypre Fresh Compositions
Chypre Fruity Compositions

149 - 160
161 - 164
165 - 172
173 - 180

Musk Animalic Fragrance Chemicals


Chypre Floral Animalic Compositions
Chypre Green Compositions
Floriental Compositions
Oriental Sweet Compositions
Oriental Spicy Compositions

181 - 184
185 - 192
193 - 204
205 - 208
209 - 212
213 - 224

Masculine Fragrance Families

225 - 228

Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals


Lavender Fresh Compositions
Lavender Spicy Compositions
Fougere Fresh Compositions
Fougere Floral Compositions
Fougere Woody Compositions
Fougere Sweet Compositions
Oriental Sweet Compositions

229 - 231
232 - 235
236 - 239
240 - 243
244 - 251
252 - 255
256 - 259
260 - 263

Spice Fragrance Chemicals


Oriental Spicy Compositions

264 - 266
267 - 270

Woody Fragrance Chemicals


Chypre Woody Compositions

271 - 274
275 - 290

Moss, Amber & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals


Chypre Coniferous Compositions

291 - 292
293 - 296

Leather Fragrance Chemicals


Chypre Leather Compositions
Chypre Fresh Compositions
Chypre Green Compositions

297 - 298
299 - 302
303 - 306
307 - 310

Citrus Fragrance Chemicals


Citrus Floral Compositions
Citrus Fantasy Compositions
Citrus Fresh Compositions
Citrus Green Compositions

311 - 319
320 - 323
324 - 327
328 - 331
332 - 335

Bibliography

336 - 338
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Fragrance Families

LASSIFICATION IS VARIED,

and their are new sub-divisions constantly being added. Keep in mind the subgroups are part of the below families. Tastes and popularity of any particular group can vary from country to country. With the launch of more, and more fine fragrances the market is getting increasingly over saturated. Employed today one will find a lot of marketing hype. This includes of course the use of movie stars,
personalities, custom bottles, and fancy packaging.

Fine fragrances can be categorized in several different aroma groupings. All scents no matter how unique
and distinct fall into fragrance families that include Floral, Chypre, Oriental, Lavender, Fougere and Citrus.
They are further divided between women, and men. Listed below are the original families as outlined by
Haarman & Reimer.

Feminine Notes
Floral Family:
The largest family of fine fragrances is by far the florals. Floral notes can find their way into the heart of
many fragrances. A floral fragrance can be classified as light, green, floral, and heavy. Scents in this family
include violet, carnation, rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, tuberose and narcissus. A light fragrance is often
described as springtime flowers like Lily of the Valley, Lilac and Freesia often with citrusy or fruity top notes.
Green accords can also be based on Muguet, and other leafy stem like materials sometimes based on herbaceous, earthy notes like Galbanum.
Narcotic floral effects can be achieved by blending different floral materials with rose notes plus adding
exotic Ylang-Ylang, Methyl Benzoate, and other diverse floral materials. They are often found in southern climates than in more northerly regions, and are thus considered heavy. These include, first and foremost, Jasmin
represented by Benzyl Acetate, Hedione to name a few of the fragrance ingredients that are available to a creative artist.
Other exotic types include Tuberose, Orange Blossom and Narcissus. Floral notes in this family can also
be balsamic such as Hyacinth. Various violet compounds are a favorite addition to many compositions. The
fragrances included in this group enjoy the greatest acceptance around the world. Many formulas display distinctive accords that are reminiscent of their natural counter parts. It can be made up of a wide variety of floral bouquets, or a certain note which predominates. The floral family has six main sub divisions as Floral,

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Green, Fruity, Fresh, Aldehydic and Sweet.


Floral Floral
A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such
as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose
ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a purely floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are utilized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5
created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today.
Floral Green
A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus
fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly
mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such
as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic
of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during
the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic.
Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis.
Floral Fruity
A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a combination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cassis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth
and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each
day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and
a soft warmth.
Floral Fresh
A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine
fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily
of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based
on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme.
Floral Aldehydic
Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive
effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note
effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on
Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and

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Glen O. Brechbill

depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by
Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combination of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.
Floral Sweet
A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia,
jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl
Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences.
Chypre:
The term Chypre was coined by Francois Coty who created the original perfume in 1917. They were based
on aroma materials that had an origin from Mediterranean countries. Mr. Coty was born on the island of Cyprus
thus he came up with his namesake Chypre. The concept is based on a citrus fresh accord and moss. Originally
the accord was founded on Bergamot Oil although scents in the family can include clary sage, lavender,
patchouli and resins. The scents feel perfect for those who enjoy the fresh outdoors. In women's fragrance
there are five main subdivisions that include Floral, Fresh, Fruity, Musk and Green.
Chypre Floral
Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference
Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord
that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note.
Chypre Fresh
The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins
in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become
increasingly generic in its use.
Chypre Fruity
This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more
pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.
Chypre Floral Musk
There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was originally obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive animal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine
musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris
produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today
most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include
Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce
a musk like honey fragrance.
Chypre Green
A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation
and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with
a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often
added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord.
Oriental Family:
The Oriental family of fragrances is often referred to as Amber. These perfumes have a strong, musky, spicy
scent that often conjure up memories of Arabia and India. They are rich, heavy and diffusive. The sweetness
can be derived from vanilla, sandalwood to name a few. Combining floral ingredients they are mysterious and
sensual. The first Oriental was Jicky created by Guerlain in 1889. This group contain aroma materials often
are reminiscent of the Far East. There's a wide range of interpretations some flowery related whereas others
have a heavy spicy theme.
Oriental Sweet
An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl
Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam
Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials.
Oriental Spicy
Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and
curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide
a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is distinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from balsam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru.
of interpretations based on Lavender, Fougere, Oriental,
Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fragrances.
Lavender Family:

EN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD

Masculine Notes
The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy
freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families

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10

are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended
for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance
there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.
Lavender Fresh
This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.
Lavender Spicy
Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.
Fougere Family:
The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is
based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic
often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on lowgrowing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and
lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord.
Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can utilize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns.
The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of
the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.
Fougere Fresh
This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.
Fougere Floral
The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.
Fougere Woody
This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Sweet
This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.
Oriental Family:
The oriental family of fine fragrances is shared with the women. Scents in this family include amber, vanilla, woods, and resins. Spice materials such as cardamom, nutmeg, caraway, cassia, carnation, cinnamon find
their way in a variety of interesting combinations with a masculine theme. Floral notes such as rose and jasmine including the violet are part of the accord. Bay Oil from the West Indies including Pepper, Basil and
Olibanum are popular base materials. The mystery of the orient gives forth to an interesting, and at the same
time delightful group of fragrances.
Oriental Spicy
Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous
materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.
Oriental Sweet
An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fragrances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.
Chypre Family:
A Chypre fragrance was originally created by Francois Coty, and is based on ingredients originally from the
Mediterranean countries. It emphases the contrast between the citrus freshness of bergamot type top notes and
a mossy patchouli base. Chypre perfumes tend to be strong, and aromatic. In the men's side of the family there
are five main groups that have a woody, leathery, coniferous, fresh and green themes. There is a wide range of
accords that can be achieved by combining masculine aroma notes in daring ways. It is reminiscent of those
who love to explore, and enjoy the fresh outdoors.
Chypre Woody
This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.

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12

Chypre Leather
Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.
Chypre Coniferous
A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.
Chypre Fresh
A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.
Chypre Green
The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.
Citrus Family
This is predominately a man's group of fragrances. Often citrus notes are combined in fine floral fruity
accords to strengthen the top note of this group of fragrances. They are predominately light and fresh with an
overwhelming citrus note such as bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain, grapefruit, tangerine, and mandarin. Citrus fragrances are refreshing very popular in the summer.
Citrus Floral
A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above.
Citrus Fantasy
A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fresh
A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.
Citrus Green
A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.
Ozone Family:
Oceanic, ozone, watery are an example of a new group of fragrances. Often they are described as things
you can't bottle naturally like ocean spray, mountain air, or freshly laundered clothes. There is a wide range of
fragrant ingredient materials available as outlined below:

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14

Fine Womans Fragrance - LAir du Flor


Citrus
Floral
Jasmin
Carnation
Rose
Violet

TOP

Bergamot
Lemon
Lime
Orange

Galbanum
Gardenia
Styrallyl Acetate

Apple
Melon
Peach
Strawberry

Spicy
Cinnamon
Cloves
Nutmeg

Green
Aldehydes

Fruity

MIDDLE

Wood
Cedar
Patchouly
Sandalwood
Vetiver

Mossy
Oakmoss
Tremoss

BASE

Amber
Amber
Labdanum
Vanilla Bean

Animal
Civet
Castoreum
Musk
Musk Traseolide

The Scent Pyramid


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Oriental Balsamic
Benzoin
Opoponax
Tonka

15

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

he florals represent the soul of every feminine perfume. They are basically middle notes. Nevertheless, as
you can see, they also plan an important rolse in the devleopment of the top and the base of the fragrance.

The citruses, first of the top notes, also play a fairly important rose in the development of the middle of a fragrance. Then come the green notes, the fruity notes, and lastly the aldehydes, pure aroma chemicals with no
bases in nature, which are used to give diffusion and originality to a fragrance.
From there, we move on to the base notes, which include the spices ( which may also play an important rose in
the development of the top of the fragrance), the mosses, the woods, the oriental/balsamic, the animal and the
amber notes.
A triangle such as the outside one will give you a fragrance such as LAir du Temps. The narrow inside triangle with its emphasis on the top notes shows a fresh fragrance such as Diorella. The wide traingle with its
emphasis on the base notes illustrates a fragrance such as Shalimar.
While this is a very much a generalization, by varying the form of the traingle one can obtain an idea of the performance of a fragrance and of the corresponding raw materials which go into its development.
The above should not be interpreted as an attempt to reduce a perfume to a mere traingle: the grandeur of a fragrance comes from its richness, not from its austerity. Nevertheless, the triangle approach seems the most apt
for visually translating notions which we all know are particularly difficult to grasp and express.

LAir du Flor / Floral Floral


Top Notes

Bergamot
Rosewood, Neroli

Fresh Flowery

Peach, Spice Notes


Middle Notes

Clove
Rose de Mai, Ylang - Ylang, Jasmin

Floral Spicy

Orris, Orchid, Lily


Base Notes

Sandalwood
Musk, Vetyver, Benzoin, Cedar
Amber, Moss

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16

Chypre Green
Fragrance Ingredient

83
18
.1
6
3
65
11
4
18
.1
57
8
42
29
8
14
1
11
28
15
19
11
22
3
14
3
.1
11
327
1
.1
3
1
1
.1
2

Iso E Super
Musk 50 DPG
Alcohol C - 9
Lavander Abrialis - Aldron
Germacrene DNatural 40 % PC192
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Benzyl Alcohol FR
Santal Blanc
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Geraniol Extra
Top Galbanum 18.326
Di Ethyl Phthalate
Terpineol - Prodasynth
Citronellol
Ionone Alpha White Coeur
Rose Oil - Lebanon
Aubepine
Benzyl Salicylate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Persicol SA
Hercolin - D
Cassis Fragrance
Tangerine / Brazil
Styrallyl Acetate
Iris Abs.
Ethyl Linalool
Di Propylene Glycol
Applinal
Phellodedrine Fruit Oil
Bois Iris
Coriander Seed
Perryfix
Viola Odorata
Eugenyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

6
1
4
1
6
7
22
4
12
15
7
1
23
1
4
.1
5
.1
14
.1
3
16
2
3
2
1

Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol


Geranyle Acetate Pure
Petunial
Frescile
Nectaryl
Hydrofix L
Linalyl Acetate
Heliotropine
Benzoato Benzila
Sandela
Etil Vanilina Thodarome
Mousse De Chene
Benzyl Acetate FFC
Anisyl Alcohol
Ethyl Vanilline
Neofolione
Blood Orange Oil
Acetophenone
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic
Bois Ambrene Forte
Aldehyde C -14
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Ionone
Floralyn
Florol

1,000

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17

The Formula - Converting Pounds into Kilos


100 Lbs.

Divided by 2.2046

45.36

Divided by 1,000

.0453

.0453

Parts

Grams Per Item

1000 Parts

Costing Out a Fragrance - Pine - All Purpose Cleaner


Parts

Aroma
Material

Price Per
Pound

Raw Material
Impact

291
167
39
18
3
27
52
26
24
23
11
34
19
28
1
12
17
20
152
36

Pine Oil Yarmor 302


Iso Bornyl Acetate
Alpha Pinene
Eucalyptol
Camphor Powder
Galaxolide 50
Alpha Terpineol
Benzyl Salicylate
Benzyl Benzoate
Ionone Beta Pure
Vertenex
Di Ethyl Phthalate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cedarwood Oil of Virginia
Piconia
Fir Needle Canadian
Coumarin
Santalex T - Sandela
Di Propylene Glycol
Terpinyl Acetate

1.03
1.35
2.25
5.76
2.00
8.75
1.22
4.05
1.60
17.10
2/45
.860
3.00
6.20
12.80
10.75
7.50
6.50
.64
1.80

.300
.225
.088
.104
.006
.236
.063
.105
.038
.393
.026
.029
.057
.174
.012
.132
.128
.130
.097
.065

1,000

$ 2.408 Per pound

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Glen O. Brechbill

18

Floral Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate Eugenol
Acetate C - 8
Acetate C - 9
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Acetophenone
Adoxal
Alcohol C - 8
Alcohol C - 9
Alcohol C - 10
Alcohol C - 11 Lenic
Aldehyde C - 8
Aldehyde C - 9
Aldehyde C - 11 Cyclic
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Aldehyde C - 11 Undecyclic
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Aldron
Allyl Ionone
Alpha Damascone
Alpha Ionone
Alpha Ionone 60
Alpha Ionone White Coeur
Alpha Terpineol Extra
Ambrette
Ambrette XNM
Ambrettolide
Ambrose Abs.
Amyl Cinnamic Alcohol
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
A C A Di Methyl Acetal
Amyl Salicylate
Anatoly
Andrane

Sweet spicy carnation.


Fruity, slightly fatty waxy floral odor.
Powerful fruity green leafy.
Balsamic, warm faintly spicy.
Pungent sweet odor, dilution - resembles hawthorne.
Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like.
Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor.
Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy.
Sweet slightly fatty oily waxy floral odor.
Fresh rather fatty odor citrusy waxy rosy, petal like note.
Soft woody green mildly floral odor.
Diffusive fatty floral waxy odor.
Pleasant waxy floral refreshing odor.
Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor.
Fatty odor green floral.
Fresh sweet waxy herbaceous clean floral odor.
Floral.
Oily sweet slight flowery, but also fruity woody bark like green.
Intense fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.
Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive.
Mild floral violet odor.
Floral violet like.
Delicately floral and sweet of lilac type.
A fragrance with a floral musk like scent.
Sweet, but heavy floral musk odor.
Floral musky sweet odor.
A very strong green floral type fragrance.
Mild oily waxy floral and sweet.
Mild herbaceous reminiscent of many types of flowers.
Peculiar animal green odor reminiscent of parts of jasmin.
Sweet herbaceous green slightly floral.
A floral material originating in Western Turkey.
A very faint nondescript odor of floral type not sweet or green.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Anisic Aldehyde
Anisyl Acetate
Anisyl Alcohol
Argumen Aldehyde
Aurantesin
Aurantiol

Intensely sweet floral yet somewhat hay like hawthorne.


Mildly fruity floral slightly balsamic vanilla like in plums, lilac.
Mildly floral sweet odor reminiscent of vanilla.
Floral aldehydic hyacinth type.
Sweet floral odor reminiscent of orange blossom.
Very sweet heavy floral orange blossom to linden flowers.

Balinol
Benzophenone
Benzyl Acetate
Benzyl Butyl Ether
Benzyl Butyrate
Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether
Benzyl Iso Eugenol
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Benzyl Salicylate
Beta Ionone
Bois Amberene Forte
Bois De Rose Oil
Boisinal
Bonorax
Bourgenal
Bromystrol Alpha
Bromystrol Omega
Brouts Abs. Eau D ' Oranger

A green floral compound.


Powdery geranium rose like.
Pw thin sweet fresh fruity floral of jasmin gardenia muguet lily.
Sweet fresh floral and somewhat chemical.
Heavy fruity floral, plum like.
Floral fruity odor somewhat greener and herby then benzyl acetate.
Faint rosy balsamic carnation.
Mild sweet honey floral.
Very faint sweet floral.
Warm woody dry floral odor with a fruity undertone.
Green floral odor.
Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange mignoette.
A very weak and sweet fruity floral odor.
An extremely green floral, not excessively sweet or cloying.
A powerful muguet floral note.
Pungent sweet grassy floral odor, reminiscent of hyacinth.
Powerful pungent floral somewhat grassy odor Rem of hyacinth.
Strong and tenacious odor, musty dry faintly floral.

Camomile German
Camomile Moroccan
Camomile Roman
Cananga Oil Java
Cassie Abs.
Cassie Bengale
Cassione
Cassis Base 345B
Cassis A 50339/779602
Cassis D 500608 - 735395
Cassis Fragrance
Cassis Givco
Cetone Alpha
Chamomile Flowers AF - 26
Cinnamalva
Cinnamyl Acetate
Cinnamyl Iso Valerate
CIS Jasmone

Typically sweet, and herbaceous.


Similar to above and below except for a rose, honey character.
Characteristic odor of the flowers, fresh, sweet, herbaceous.
Sweet and floral, ylang ylang oil, jasmin.
Powerful strong spicy floral odor.
A spicy floral odor whose source is located in s.e. asia
Intensely sweet floral, very slightly woody powdery.
A green fruity floral character.
Fruity green sweet and very delicate, but at same time tenacious.
A strong green floral slightly sweet material.
Strong green fruity floral fragrance.
Very diffusive strong green fruity floral odor.
Tenacious floral violet compound.
A herbaceous reproduction of the true flower oil
Powerful warm spicy oily slight floral.
Sweet mild balsamic slightly floral fruity odor.
Fresh, but delicately floral rosy odor.
Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.
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20

Citronella Oil Java


Citronellol Oil Coeur
Citronellol Oil Extra
Citronellol 750
Citronellol 80 Intermediate
Citronellol 850
Citronellol Last Fraction
Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl N Butyrate
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Nitrile
Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate
Citronellyl Propionate
Cyclal C
Cyclamen Aldehyde

Fresh and sweet revealing high content of citronellol rose odor.


Fresh, rosy, floral rosy.
Purer grade, fresher rosy.
Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73 %.
Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5 %.
Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86 %.
Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose.
Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil.
Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like.
Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor.
Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose.
A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva.
Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals.
Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.
Powerful green leafy floral.
Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor.

Damascenia
Damascenia Rosa Abs.
Damascenia Rosa Concrete
Damascenia 185 SA
Damascenone
Delphone
Delta Damascone
Dianthanol
Di Benzyl Either
Di Hydro Floralate
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Di Hydro Linalool
Di Methyl Anthranilate
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl
D M B C - Acetate
D M B C - Propionate
Di Methyl Octanol
Di Methyl Octanyl Acetate
D M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
DIOLA
Di Phenyl Menthane
Di Phenyl Oxide
Dorina S A
Dupical

Rich sweet deep floral rose.


Rich warm spicy floral and very deep rose odor, honey tones.
Extremely rich deep & sweet floral truly reminiscent of pink rose.
Floral fruity rose odor at same time very sweet.
A powerful floral fruity note, very natural rose plum like.
Diffusive fruity floral odor of jasmin.
A hybrid floral rose compound.
A spicy carnation floral rose compound.
Faint sweet odor of aubepine.
A light green floral lily like odor not sweet.
Warm spicy sweet slight floral balsamic odor.
Fruity odor of floral jasmin.
Fresh floral citrusy.
Heavy orange blossom mandarin peel odor.
Warm herbaceous floral reminiscent lilac, eldiflowers.
Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily.
Sweet floral fruity of freesia, sweet pea, peony, magnolia.
Waxy dry rosy odor.
Sweet floral fruity somewhat waxy odor.
Soft floral green.
Reminiscent of sweet lavender oil, herbaceous.
Harsh geranium leaf, orange blossom type odor on dilution.
Harsh floral green, metallic geranium rose type.
Floral rose specialty base extremely fresh and floral.
Floral, muguet.

Efetaal

A floral type odor.


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Ethyl Caproate
Ethyl Laurate
Ethyl Linalool

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Strong fruity winey odor of apple blossom, pineapple.


Fatty flower petal like odor.
Floral oily slight woody green soft odor.

Farenal
Farnesol Oil

Powerful intense aldehydic waxy like slightly floral.


Mildly floral delicately sweet oily fresh green odor.
Feuilles E ' Oranger Abs. Eau Floral odor of feuilles d ' oranger.
Fleuroxene
A strong green floral woody non descript odor.
Fleur D ' Oranger Abs. Eau Dry floral herbaceous reminiscent of mandarin leaf oil.
Fleur D ' Oranger 175 SA
Floral herbaceous odor not sweet or fruity.
Floraline Tuberose Concrete
Heavy floral almost nauseating sweet heavy slightly spicy odor.
Floraline Tuberose Pommade Heavy sweet floral honey like.
Floral N
A soft slightly green floral odor.
Florapal
Herbal fresh floral green.
Florex
A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance.
Floromat
A floral green type odor.
Florosa
A light sweet green floral.
Florosia
A light sweet green floral.
Framboise 2222
A sweet fruity floral odor.
Geraniol
Geraniol 60
Geraniol 90
Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil
Geraniol Extra
Geranium Algerian
Geranium Moroccan
Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate Extra
Geranyl Acetone
Geranyl Anthranilate
Geranyl Benzoate
Geranyl N Butyrate
Geranyl Caproate
Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
Geranyl Propionate

Mild, and sweet floral rose.


Sweet floral rose.
Mild and sweet floral rose.
Sweet and floral rose like.
Sweet floral rose coeur grade.
Lighter more rosy leafy.
Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor.
Sweet fruity floral rosy.
The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost.
Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green.
Heavy sweet floral rose.
Faint rosy, very tenacious mildly floral.
Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy odor.
Fruity geranium rose like.
Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor.
Sweeter then n butyrate.
Soft floral honey rose like.
Sweet fruity rose warm.

Hedione
Helioforte
Heliomet
Heliotropex B - 2226

Warm, and sweet floral jasmin.


Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.
Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.
Liquid form of heliotropin, very sweet and floral.
Heliotropex N M Replacement Warm powdery floral like.
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Glen O. Brechbill

22

Heliotropine
Heliotropine N
Heliotropyl Acetate
Hexalon
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

Sweet floral warm slightly spicy, in dilution - cherry pie.


Liquid form of heliotropine very sweet floral slightly spicy.
Very sweet light floral with distinct fruity cherry top note.
Oily sweet slight flowery.
Mild and sweet oily slightly floral.
Hexyl Cyclo Pentanone # 405 Powerful and diffusive dry floral green herbaceous odor.
Hexyl Salicylate
Faint sweet herbaceous floral odor.
Hyacinth Body
Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note.
Hydratropic Alcohol Coeur Sweet floral, but rather heavy odor of lilac, hyacinth.
Hydrofix L
Sweet floral lily with a fresh green dry out.
Hydrofix R
Floral lily.
Hydroxycitronellal
Sweet floral mild odor of muguet.
Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Muguet sweet floral green, citrusy fresh.
Hysimal
Floral, lily of the valley.
Indolarome
Indole
Interleven Aldehyde
Ionone Alpha Extra
Ionone Alpha Regular
Ionone Alpha Methyl C
Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl
Ionone Alpha Refined
Ionone Alpha White Coeur
Iralia
Iris Aldehyde
Iris Concrete
Iris Concrete 199 KSA
Irival
Irone Alpha Refined
Iso Butyl Benzoate
Iso Butyl Salicylate
Iso Cyclo Citral
Iso Damascone
Iso Eugenol
Iso Eugenol # 6504
Iso Eugenol Ethyl Acetal
Iso Jasmone
Iso Phytol
Iso Plugeol

Diffusive, and powerful floral in extreme dilution.


Powerful choking odor, in extreme dilution - floral.
Waxy rose floral.
Floral violet.
A very diffusive orris violet.
Floral violet.
A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor.
Floral violet.
Floral violet.
A very pure orris or violet note of powdery woody character.
Extremely powerful, and diffusive orisy odor.
Woody oily violet like odor.
Woody fatty oily but distinctly violet floral.
Orris.
Soft warm orris violet like sweet and diffusive.
Weak fresh orisy odor.
Sweet harsh herbaceous floral.
Powerful and diffusive floral green.
A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex.
Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like.
A sweet spicy warm floral odor of carnation very nice.
Spicy floral carnation like, softer.
Isomeric floral jasmin mixture.
Virtually odorless pure, carries dry leaf tea like odor.
Minty herbaceous reminiscent of first smell of tuberose.

Jacinthe 127 SA
Jacintheme 135 SA
Jasmal

A reconstruction of the natural oil.


Reminiscent of the green floral heart of hyacinth.
Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Jasmaprunate
Jasmin # 187
Jasmin Abs.
Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn.
Jasmin Abs. Italian Max.
Jasmin Egyptian
Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt
Jasmolactone
Jasmo Lactone CNC
Jasmonyl
Jessemal

Fruity like apple jasmin dry slight green like wild grapes.
A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.
Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil.
A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.
The purest heart of the floral jasmin.
An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance.
A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor.
Sweet fruity floral jasmin.
Oily fruity floral petal like odor.
Intensely sweet floral jasmin.
Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Kir Base # 9741


Koavone

Woody floral complex with amber violet note.


Woody floral complex with amber violet note.

Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114


Lactone CIS Jasmone # 411
Laevo Citronellol
Lavandin Abrialis
Lavandin Abs.
Lavandin Abs. In Color
Lavandin Concrete
Lavandin Grosso
Lavandin Grosso C - 8713

Soft floral odor of jasmin.


Floral waxy jasmin absolute character.
Fresh and light rosy leafy.
Sweet floral herbaceous lavandin.
Strong herbaceous with a camphoraceous character.
Powerful camphoraceous herbaceous floral type odor.
Captures the heart of the sweet lavandin flower.
Sweet balsamic herbaceous.
Sweet herbaceous slightly camphoraceous lavandin.
Lavender Abs. Barren Green Powerful balsamic camphoraceous, herbaceous floral odor.
Lavender 40/42
Sweet floral herbaceous.
Lavender Oil Spiked
Typically sweet, balsamic and herbaceous.
Lavender Oil Spike Sub. 2707 Fresh herbaceous lavender like.
Liffarome
Violet green.
Lilial
Sweet yet refreshing floral green.
Lile Strallis 22
Fresh light green floral, reminiscent of lilial.
Linalool
Floral.
Linalool Intermediate
Light and refreshing floral woody odor.
Linalool Oxide
Powerful sweet woody floral.
Linalool Terpenes
Floral woody iris, quite harsh odor not pleasant.
Linalyl Acetate
Sweet floral fruity odor, bergamot pear.
Linalyl Benzoate
Balsamic floral bergamot fruity odor.
Linalyl Butyrate
Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like.
Linalyl Formate
Fresh citrusy green bergamot like.
Linalyl Iso Butyrate
More floral less fruity then n butyrate.
Linalyl Propionate
Fruity floral fresh very sweet bergamot.
Lychee
Green floral, very pleasant in extreme dilution.
Lyral
Delicately sweet, light and floral.

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Glen O. Brechbill

24

Mallow
Merion

A slightly green sweet floral fragrance.


A diffusive floral oriental woody complex.
Methoxy Ortho Cinnamic Ald. Sweet and warm spicy floral.
Methyl Acetophenone
Pungent harsh warm sweet odor.
Methyl Acetyl Anthranilate Floral linden blossom not nice.
Methyl Anisate
Sweet herbaceous delicately floral odor.
Methyl Anthranilate
Musty, fruity & dry floral odor reminiscent of concord grapes.
Methyl Benzaldehyde
Warm mildly floral sweet spicy odor of benzaldehyde.
Methyl Benzoate
Heavy sweet deep floral odor reminiscent of tropical flowers.
Methyl Hexyl Ketone
Pleasant floral bitter green, slightly musty.
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra Orris violet floral.
Methyl Ionone Extra
Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl Ionone Gamma A
A floral violet woody isomeric mixture.
Methyl Ionone Gamma X
Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl Ionone Regular
Mild floral odor of violets.
Methyl I G Replacer
Familiar woody floral complex, tobacco like undertone.
Methyl Iso Residue
Harsh floral violet slight woody.
Methyl I G Supreme
Floral violet woody fruity comlplex.
Methyl Ionone Tails
A harsh woody floral violet odor, reminiscent of ionone beta.
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Sweet and warm mild floral tea like slightly spicy.
Methyl Jasmonate
Powerful herbaceous floral.
Methyl Lavandin Ketone
Floral sweet lavandin like.
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Sweet floral lavender.
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Fruity rosy orange like.
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Green violet leaf like.
Methyl Para Cresol
Sharp and sweet, dilution - ylang, hyacinth & wallflower.
Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
Earth green reminiscent of gardenia and hyacinth.
Methyl Tuberate
Floral most likely tuberose, rose like material not sweet.
Mimosa Abs. Essence
A green floral delicately mimosa like.
Mimosa Abs. Morocco
Powerful floral green.
Mimosa Odor Essence
Green floral capturing the heart of the mimosa flower.
Mirabelle 2000
A fruity floral creation.
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Diffusive green muguet lily type odor.
Mugone 207M
A faintly sweet muguet floral odor extremely viscous.
Neo Jasmin # 937
Neral Crude 88 %
Nerol
Nerol A
Nerol Petals
Nerol Special
Neroli Bigarrade Moroccan
Nerolidol

Sweet floral jasmin.


Sweet floral citral lemony floral.
Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like.
Sweet rosy refreshing.
Sweet rosy leafy refreshing.
A fresh sea shore like floral rose.
Sweet spicy orange blossom obtained from sour orange.
Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Nerolin Bromelia Crystals


Neryl Acetate
2,6, Nonadienal # 332
2,6,Nona 1 al Diethyl Acetal

Soft floral.
Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.
Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves.
Smooth floral violet, melon odor.

Octanol 2
Octanol Nitrile 10 B - 2216
Octyl Formate
Oranger Crystals
Oranger Liquid
Orris Concrete
Orris Oil
Orris Resin Abs.
Orris Resinoid
Osmantha
Osmanthus CC Abs.
Osmanthus NT 5232
Oxyertaline Formate

A floral rosy fresh odor.


A rosy floral odor.
Powerful, and relatively diffusive fruity green orris.
Sweet and very tenacious orange blossom.
Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom.
A floral green violet like odor.
Floral violet.
Floral violet.
A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.
Floral.
A sweet floral jasmin odor slightly green.
A sweet floral jasmin odor.
A faint green slightly sweet floral door.

Palmarosa Oil
Sweet floral rosy odor.
Para Cresyl Acetate
Lily like odor.
Para Cresyl Iso Butyrate
Pronounced lily narcisus like odor.
Para Cresyl Methyl
Floral odor of wallflower, and ylang ylang.
Para Cresyl Phenyl Acetate Floral odor of lily, hyacinth, jonquil.
Para Cresyl Redistilled
Floral odor.
Para Methyl Quinoline
Powerful and penetrating, dilution - sweet floral and tobacco like.
Para Methoxy Acetophenone Sweet, but somewhat harsh hay like odor.
Parmavert
Powerful floral green, sweet and violet leaf like.
Petilyn
A very delicate and faint light green floral.
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
Pleasant fresh floral sweet odor.
Petitgrain Citronner Oil
Distinct and pleasant, a fresh lemony floral woody odor.
Petitgrain Oil Moroccan
A fresh lemony floral woody odor extremely tenacious.
Petitgrain Oil S A
A fresh lemony floral woody odor.
Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless
Diffusive less better sweet floral woody odor.
Petitgrainol
Intensely woody neroli note.
Phenoxanal
Fresh floral rose.
Phenoxy Ethanol
Mild rosy, but also metallic.
Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol
Mild honey rose odor.
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Sweet fruity rosy floral.
Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal
Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetal
Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Mild and warm rose honey like odor.
Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate
Very faint floral balsamic odor reminiscent of dry rose petals.
Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

26

Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate


Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
Phenyl Propyl Acetate
Phenyl Propyl Alcohol
Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde
Phixia
Phytia Abs.
Phytol
Pivarose
Piviane 2
Polarose
Pseudo M I Terpenes

Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic rosy odor.


Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Fresh fruity tea rose type.
Powerful diffusive, dilution - jasmin tobacco like.
Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like.
Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor.
Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Faint, but sweet and delicate balsamic floral.
Fresh floral powerful fruity green.
Warm and mild balsamic floral, sweet odor.
Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green.
Sweet, floral at first delicate refreshing mild.
Powerful floral herbaceous balsamic, not sweet.
Delicate floral balsamic notes reminiscent of nerolidol, farnesol.
Floral tea rose.
A sweet rosy floral fragrance.
Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.
A harsh floral violet like odor.

Racinia
Reseda Body
Rhodinol X Citronella
Rhodinol Coeur
Rhodinyl Acetate
Rhodinyl N Butyrate
Rhodinyl Formate
Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate
Rhodinyl Propionate
Rhodinyl Salicylate
Rhodinyl Valerate
Rosacene
Rosalva
Rose Abs. Moroccan
Rose Abs. Turkey
Rose Crystals
Rose Essence 193
Rose Essence Bulgare
Rosemary Oil
Rose Nitrile
Rose Oil Moroccan
Rose Oil Moroccan Select
Rose Oil Templar
Rose Oil Turkey

A dry floral rose complex.


Delicate, but powerful hyacinth, narcisus, reseda note.
Naturally sweet rosy floral.
Geranium rose.
Sweet, light refreshing rose muguet, green leafy notes.
Intensely sweet mellow fruity deep rosy.
Fresh leafy green delicate rosy.
Sweet, very deep soft honey like rose.
Rich and sweet fruity floral rose geranium type.
Very weak sweet rosy powdery balsamic odor.
Heavy fruity, slightly earthy green, but also sweet odor.
A nice light delicate floral rose compound not overly sweet.
Powerful fatty oily, waxy rose odor.
Extremely fresh and sweet floral rose odor.
A tenacious diffusive sweet floral, truly captures fresh flower.
Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.
A very strong, but yet sweet floral rosy fresh odor.
A very diffusive vivacious rose odor, slightly sweet floral nice.
Woody herbaceous, reminiscent of spike lavender oil.
Rich rose geranium woody iris.
Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose.
The finest moroccan rose fragrance at an attractive cost.
A typical sweet rose odor whose source is rooted in English lore.
Diffusive strong vibrant floral rose scent reminiscent of the rose.

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27

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Rose Oil Turkish


Rose Orient
Rose Oxide R

An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense over powering.


Sweet floral rose.
Intensely rose like, mysterious, diffusive, rounded and nice.
Reminiscent of rose geranium.

Scennal
Scentennal
Schiff Base
Schiff Base
Schiff Base
Schiff Base
Sclarene
Sino Citral
Styrallyl Acetate
Styallyl Alcohol
Styrallyl Propionate
Styrax Essence CD
Styrax Clarified
Styrax Provence Essence
Styrax Purified
Sweet Pea
Sweet Pea Double
Syringa
Syringa 1523

A fresh green floral lily type odor.


Powerful green refreshing watery floral.
Methyl Anthranilate/Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde.
Methyl Anthranilate/Hydroxycitronellal.
Methyl Anthranilate/Lilial.
Methyl Anthranilate/Triplal.
A very faint, but yet sweet floral odor.
Fresh citral lemony with a floral background.
Powerful and penetrating green floral in dilution.
Dry floral earthy green, lilac, jasmin, mimosa, type odor.
Balsmaic green floral type odor.
Has a pleasant balsamic odor recalling hyacinth and hawthorne.
Sweet balsamic odor with a hyacinth like floral background.
Sweet balsamic odor, floral in extreme dilution.
Sweet balsamic odor with a hyacinth tuberose background.
Resembles orange blossom, hyacinth and a touch of rose.
Not sweet strong or heavy floral odor.
Floral odor of muguet and neroli oil.
Soft and very tenacious floral odor.

Rose Oil Turkey Commercial

Terpineol Extra
Terpineol Prime
Terpineol 350
Tepyl Acetate
Tetra Hydra Linalool
Tetra Hydra Mugol
Tetralide
The 71795
Tolu Balsam Oil
Tolu Balsam Alva Essence
Tolu Balsam Resinoid
Tolyl Acetate

Delicate floral sweet lilac type perfume grade.


Delicate floral sweet lilac.
Delicately floral reminscent of lilac.
Oily herbaceous floral and sweet earthy odor.
Sweet oily and delicately floral.
Fresh sweet floral odor.
Musky powdery floral.
Tea/Floral.
Warm balsamic and hyacinth like.
A tenacious diffusive balsamic hyacinth in dilution like.
Warm and balsamic hyacinth like.
Sweet floral fruity and mildly green.
Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl Floral rosy.
Trans 4 Decenal # 382
Has a fruity rose aldehydic character.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate Fruity floral.
Tuberanthia S A
Tuberose
Tuberose Abs.
A heavy sweet almost nauseating floral odor of tuberose.
Tuberose Pommade
A heavy sweet almost overpowering tuberose odor.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

28

Undecavertol

Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.

Vanoris
Vartol # 915
Velutone
Violet Abs. French
Violet Abs. Rue
Violet Abs. Selection
Violet Colorless 54.5219
Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149
Violet F ' Builles Abs.

Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type.


Floral rose type odor very dry.
Faint, but sweet floral fruity odor.
Strong herbaceous floral violet.
Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil.
Strong floral violet odor.
Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.
Green floral violet, very subtle slight sweet.
Slightly violet, not strong or sweet.

Wild Pimento Oil

Resembles spike lavender oil.

X.I. Aldehyde

Powerful hay melon ozone note, floral aspect.

Yara Yara Crystals


Ylang Ylang Abs.
Ylang Ylang Complete
Ylang Ylang Concrete
Ylang Ylang Oil
Ylang Ylang Oil Extra
Ylang Ylang " First "
Ylang Ylang " Second "

Intensely sweet orange blossom, acacia like.


Intensely sweet floral, and very diffusive odor.
Powerful, and intensely sweet, but also soft balsamic floral odor.
Rich sweet, and intensely floral.
Sweet floral, and intensely floral.
Very powerful floral intensely sweet of cresylic benzoate type.
In between quality generally a mixture of different fractions.
In between quality generally a mixture of different fractions.

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29

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Floral Floral

FLORAL FLORAL
A floral fragrance owes its nature to flower blossoms that may differ from one another. Rose materials such
as Citronellol, Geraniol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol predominate. Again Jasmine in combination with rose
ingredients are the central part of this theme. By adding carnation, ylang-ylang, tuberose, iris and others a purely floral effect can be achieved. Today more synthetic ingredients including the use of artificial bases are utilized due to the high cost and unavailability of essential oils. For example, a fine fragrance such as Chanel # 5
created by Ernst Breaux in 1923 would smell entirely different today.
Top

Bergamot 3 % - Dry
Jasmin, Rose, Violet Green

Middle

Fruity

Jasmin 10 %
Rose 24 % - Warm, Violet 3 %, Muguet 3 %

Floral

Lilac 1 %, Carnation 6 %
Base

Musk 6.5 %
Tonka - Trace, Sandal 1 %, Moss - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Hercolyn - D 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

30

Floral Floral # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
6
28
.1
7
24
3
12
8
39
1
3
98
3
14
35
8
6
27
48
4
1
9
38
8
7
275
4
.1
3
.1
1
3
175
3
.1

Oakmoss Givco 214


Cedrafix
Traseolide 700 Base
Civet Tincture
Di Hydro Coumarex
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Helioforte
Sandalwood Substitute
Benteine
Galaxolide Artessence
Alpha Damascone
Gardenia Ether
Hedione
Helional
Eugenol
Hercolyn - D
Cyclosia Base
Di Hydro Eugenol
Citronellol
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Super Cepionate
Sandalwood Oliffac
Di Metil Octanol
Muguet Base
alpha - Ionone
Anisic Aldehyde - Basf Germany
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Phixia
Alcool C - 9
Poirinate
Appila Augaflor 5
Geraniol
Sweet Pea
Myrrh Essence

Fragrance Ingredient

1
18
9
5
1
.1
1
4
.1
1
11
14
.1
8
12
.2
.1
3
1
1
4
3
1

Top Rose ABQ 5644


Linalool
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
DMBC - Acetate
Bergamal
Undecatriene
Geranyl Linalool
Verdantiol
Fleurs dOranger abs. artess
Cyclrose
Phenylethylacetate
Terpineol Perfume Grade
Rose Oil Templar
Iraldeine 100 %
Linalyl Acetate
Mirabeeel 2000 D
Folione
Santalol
Strawberry Aroma Base
Tuberose Oliffac
Iononyl Acetate
Acetato Geraniol
Muguet Alcohol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

31

Floral Floral # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

8
4
1
64
35
.1
1
73
10
18
7
12
3
33
1
3
15
1
4
15
35
8
4
1
16
309
163
1
5
9
6
1
13
1
.1

Alcool Benzilico
Brahmanol
Moss Oliffac
Galaxolide Artessence
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Base # 9
Amber Core
Benzyle Acetate
Iso E Super
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
Traseolide
Eugenol
Fleuramone
Carnation Base
Rosone
Eugenol, Iso
Jasmin Province Base
Iso Rose
Cashmeran
Ionone Alpha 60
Hercolin - D
Citronellol 750
Massada
Helioforte
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Troenan
Benteine
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Tangerine, C.P. Brazil
Carnation Augaflor
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Florymoss
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

Fragrance Ingredient

1
4
.1
.1
9
6
3
.1
25
1
.1
2
53
4
.1
1
3
2
4
.1
1
4
1

Bitter Orange Ivory Coast Oil


cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Nonadienal
Iris Beurre Essence
MDJ
Indian Santal Core
Lilivert
Narcissus abs. - France
Linalol Coeur
Jasmone
Love - in - idleness
Merion
Linalyl acetate Pure FCC
alpha - Ionone
Rose Absolute - Turkey
Orinox
Lyral
Jasmonyl Acetate
Scennal
Leaf Acetal
Abies Alba Needle Oil
Neryl Acetate
Tangerinol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

32

Floral Floral # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

63
4
.1
38
9
.1
5
26
.1
3
1
34
51
3
4
9
8
6
1
3
37
4
119
1
83
9
304
8
9
7
39
3
7
.1
4

Galaxolide Artessence
Helional
Civet Augaflor 3
Hercolyn - D
Sandalwood Substitute
Musk Abs. CLess
Vanillin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Mousse Essence Abs.
Anisalcohol
Damascenone
Benzylsalicylate
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Coumone
Hydroxycitronellol 97 %
Lindenol
Citronellol
Anisic Aldehyde - Basf Germany
Benzophenone
Ethyl Vanisal
Rose Base # 60
Methyl Heptenone
Geraniol
Orris Oil
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Cetonal V
Di Propileno Glico
Lyral
Methyl Iso Eguenol
Ionone Alpha 60
Benzyl Acetate
Apple Blossom
Bergamot Oils
Alcohol C - 8
Scennal

Fragrance Ingredient

1
3
.1
4
9
.1
11
.1
4
1
19
1
3
.1
.1
11
4
2
5
7
4
3

Cananga
Peomosa
Leaf Alcohol
Jasmin
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - Acetate
Ylang Heart No. 3
Peach Aroma Base
9 - Decen - 1 - OL
Lily Hexanol
Meranol
Linalol
Cassione
Pamplemousse E. Blanc
Rose Oil Otto
Nonadienal
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Amyl Ketone
Nerol 90 %
Iridales
2 - n - Hexyl Cyclopentanone
Sandalore
Floral N

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

33

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL
Top
Hexyl Salicylate 1 %

Orange 5 %
Strawberry 1 %, Muguet 2 %, Bergamot 3 %

Fruity

Lavender 3 %
Middle

Jasmin 8 %
Violet 9 %, Rose 6 %

Floral

Powdery - Cedarwood & Aubepine


Hawthorn 5 %, Lily 2 %, Lilac 4 %
Base

Cedar 4 %
Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 3 %, Musk 2 %
Civet - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Powdery

Glen O. Brechbill

34

Floral Floral # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

2
38
9
43
11
1
27
5
11
3
1
5
22
9
6
15
7
10
3
61
47
1
9
75
34
292
3
22
5
4
17

Acetyl Iso Eugenol


Cedarwood Oil Texas
Sandalore
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Coumarin Substitute
Styrax Oil Honduras
Powdery Base
Cedrafix
Sanjinol
Heliotropine
Anisyl Alcohol
Cedro ( Arvore )
Galaxolide 50
Amyris
Vanillin
Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
Cedrenyl Acetate
Lilie
Ethyl Vanisal
Hedione
Aubepine
Irone V
Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Ionone Intermediate Base
Terpineol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Elintaal Forte
Jasmin Artificial Base
Iso Raldeine 95
Citronellol
Benzophenone

Fragrance Ingredient

11
.1
4
.1
.4
16
35
4
.1
.1
16
51
2
1
3
8
4
3
.1
25
3
1
4
1
3
5
1
.1
1

Linalool
Alcohol C - 10
p - Cresyl Methyl Ether
Turpentine Oil, Portugal
Methyl Cinnimate
Hydroxycitronellal
Geraniol
Vetiveryl Acetate Popular
Germacrene DNatural 40 % PC 192
Damascenone
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Orange Guinea
Tuberose Augaflor 25
Vertifloreol
Aldehyde C - 24 Poire
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Myraldyl Acetate
Nectarine
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Linalyl Acetate
Nerol 96 %
Mirabelle 2000 D
Lysmeral
Rosewood Texas Rectified
Iso Amyl Geranate
Muguet Alcohol
Neroli Artessence
Florane
Gelsol F

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

35

Floral Floral # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
8
41
23
44
29
1
24
1
3
1
19
48
1
22
65
12
1
3
6
4
9
12
5
301
54
28
71
6
3

Benzoato Benzila
Vanillina ( China )
Cedarwood Texas Oil
Benzophenone
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Extender
Rose Crystals
Benzyl Salicylate
Tonquitone Super
Vanillin, ethyl
Anisyl Alcohol
Coumane
Aubepine
Iso Jasmone
Powdery Base
Hedione
Acetate Benzila Fenil
Musk Ambrette
Heliotropine
Citronellol
Sandalore
Methyl Phenyl Acetate
Ionones For Soap
Leonile
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol 98
Terpineol Prime
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Hydroxycitronellal
Hawthorne

Fragrance Ingredient

6
.1
1
14
6
.1
17
3
6
.3
1
.1
2
14
.1
2
.1
3
.1
4
1
3
53
3
.1
1
4

Galbanum Givco 121


Alcool C - 9
Maive Sylvestris Mall
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Methyl Jasmonate
Tagetes Afrique Du Sed
Hexyl Salicylate
Stawberry pure
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Iso Damascone
Violet Leaf Oil Abs.
Syringa Aldehyde
Lavender 58/52
Neroli Oxide
Jasmorogne
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Lysmeral
2, 6 Nonadienal # 332
Iso Raldeine 95
Neryl Acetate
Fraisse 3333 SA
Orange Oil Juicy
Para Cresyl Redistilled
Muguet Aldehyde
Cassia Bark Oil China
y - Irone

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

36

Floral Floral # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
23
1
26
41
18
.1
21
49
11
18
9
16
8
7
67
10
28
.1
7
4
3
71
8
53
4
11
281
37
4

Civet Ethopian Tincture


Benzophenone
Bisabolene
Cedre Atlas
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Musk Abs. CLess
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Hawthorn
Benzyle Phenyl Acetate
Cou Marin
Benteine
Benzyl Alcohol
Sandalwood
Vanilina
Claigeon ( MDJ )
Methyl Phenyl Acetate
Powdery Base
Oakwood Extract
Citronellol 750
Vanillin, ethyl
Para Cresyl redistilled
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Muguesia
Geraniol
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Lilac Base
Methyl Cedrylone

Fragrance Ingredient

5
6
23
.1
14
6
.1
3
53
1
.3
4
5
12
3
8
3
.1
1
.1
.1
3
.1
6
3
3
1

Lavender Oil 40/42


Strawberry pure
Linalyl Acetate
Styrax Essence
Hexyle Salicylate
Ionone Alpha White Coeur
Aldehyde C - 10
Nerol
Orange Oil Florida Valencia C.P.
Jasilyn
Fraisberry
Ionone - alpha
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Iso Jasmone
Linalol
Muguet Augaflor 16
Nonadienal
Bergamot Ivory Coast
Leaf Alcohol
Rose Orient
Hydrofix R
Rosa Damascenia
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Geranium over Roses
Lavender Oil Std.
Massada

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

37

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL
Pineapple 1 %

Top

Lime 1 %, Bergamot 7 %, Neroli .5 %

Fruity Sweet

Melon .75 %, Apple .5 %, Pear 1 %


Middle
Jasmin 10 %
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 %

Carnation 2 %, Rose 9 %, Muguet 6 %

Floral Fresh

Violet 3 %
Base

Galbanum 1.5 %
Moss - Trace, Amber - Trace, Sandalwood 3 %
Musk 3 %, Styrax .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Sweet Mossy

Glen O. Brechbill

38

Floral Floral # 3a
Fragrance Ingredient

15
3
29
4
28
41
6
3
.1
5
5
4
14
43
26
5
11
38
1
4
10
5
19
73
5
324
6
11
1
1
97
1
3
1

Galbanum Res. 3918P


Benzoin Gum Siam # 3 - Laos
Benzylsalicylate
Styrax Resinoid
Galaxolide
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedarwood Morocco
Amber Substitute
Galbanum Resinoid Artessence
Anthea SandalCoeur
Gardenia Oil
Kephalis
Osyrol
Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido
Laurine
Irone
Cinnamic Alcohol
Muguet Base
Rose Acetate
Cedrenyl Acetate
Meijiff
Citronellol - Basf
Ionone For Soap
Geraniol
Anis Alehyde
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Nerolidol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Iso Jasmone
Benzophenone
Benzyl Acetate
Undecavertol
Lavender Flower
Poirenate

Fragrance Ingredient

31
.1
4
5
11
1
3
4
.1
1
3
2
12
4
3
9
.1
5
48
4
.3
2
.1
.1
1

Linalool 98 %
Vanilla - Mexican
Perryfix
Tangerine Oil CP Clear
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Palmarosa Oil Guatamala
cis - 3 - Heyl Acetate
Viridine
The
Cypriol, light
Pearalate
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Sandal, Asia
Anapear - Givaudan
Melonyl 86471 VMF
Rose Oxide L
Dimetol
Linalyl Acetate S 96
Neroli Oliffac
Cyclal - C
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Rosewood Essence
Leaf Alcohol
Cassia FN 10745

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

39

Floral Floral # 3b
Fragrance Ingredient

1
29
14
3
1
42
3
4
29
6
9
10
17
6
37
19
1
3
5
22
3
1
12
2
315
8
.1
103
62
4
3
.1
1
4
2
3

Ambrox DL Coeur
Etilen Brasilate
Galbanum Givco 121
Koavonne
Moss Oliffac
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandela
Iso - Eugenol
Benzylsalicylate
Styrax Coeur
Sandalwood Oil odor type compound
Cinnamic Alcohol
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Laurine
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Javanol
Hydroxycitronellal A
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Citronellol
Gardenia Acetal
Rosone
Ionone Alpha
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Melonyl 86471 VMF
Rosalva
Acetate De Benzyle
Geraniol
Nepalva
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Undecavertol
Vern Aldehyde
Jasmonyl Acetate
Top Muguet 18.326
Anapear

Fragrance Ingredient

38
1
11
3
52
2
10
9
4
6
3
7
24
4
3
1
1
5
.4
.2
.1
.1

Linalol synthetique
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Ally Amyl Glycolate
Ripe Pear
Muguet Base
Poirinate
Dimetol
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Trifernal
Neroli Oliffac
Perryfix
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Linalyl Acetate
Pine Tree Siberia
Anapear - Givaudan
Berzoate De Methyle
Neroly
Bonorax
Evening Primrose Oil
Floreal
Methyl Tuberate pure
Trimofix O

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

40

Floral Floral # 3c
Fragrance Ingredient

3
.1
29
42
1
3
35
9
.1
10
43
6
101
3
26
.1
9
55
8
13
1
3
8
6
3
9
304
3
77
4
3
5
3
.1
6
9
8

Amber Base
Mousse Essence Abs.
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Rose Crystals
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Benzylsalicylate
Galbanum - Iran
Civet 241 Oliffac
alpha - Ionone
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Styrax Clarified
Acetate De Benzyle
Comfrey
Iso Raldeine Substitute
Boise De Gaiac
Cinnamic Alcohol
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Citronellol
Eugenol
Iso Jasmone
Peomosa
Dupical
Laurine Extra
Cedrenyl Acetate
Iraldeine 100 %
Di Propileno Glico
Applinal
Geraniol
Scennal
Pearlate
Methoxymelonal
Glycoflor
Undecavertol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Lime Oil C.P. Mexico

Fragrance Ingredient

3
5
28
2
4
3
13
45
3
.3
2
4
8
.1
5
4
8
6
.1
.2
4
3
1

Poirinate
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Linalool Nat.
DMBC - Acetate
Levenalis
Top Muguet 18.326
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Linalyl Acetate ( Ex Citrata )
Viridine
Rose Oil Moroccan Select
Meijiff
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Nerol
Ciclal - C
Neroli Oliffac
Anapear - Givaudan
Alpha Ionone White Coeur
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Perryfix
Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic
Tilanol Super
Nerol
White Grapefruit Israeli Oil

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

41

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL
Top

Peach 1 %
Lime 3 %, Lemon 2 %, Bergamot 5 %,

Floral Fruity

Pineapple 1 %
Middle

Lilac 1 %

Muguet 5 %, Lavender 4 %, Violet 3 %


Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 % Rose 5 % - Sweet, Carnation 4 %, Jasmin 2 %
Base

Floral

Tonka 1 %
Sandalwood 3 %, Cedarwood 2 %

Cutters
Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Woody

Glen O. Brechbill

42

Floral Floral # 4a
Fragrance Ingredient

28
13
.1
10
3
.1
25
24
3
8
12
2
5
33
51
15
4
75
22
4
19
27
8
13
9
54
11
280
12
7
6
1
4
.1
3

Sandela
Cou Marin
Moss Oliffac
Benzyle Propionate
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Civet Abs.
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedar Atlantic Oil
Heliotropine
Benteine
Amyl Salicylate
Iso Jasmon
Anisaldehyde
Eugenol
Hydroxycitronellal Aub AB 2040
Amil Cinamico Aldeido
Cedramber
Lilac Base
Cepionate
Flor De Larange Eter
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Citronellol 50
Benzyl Iso Eugenol Forte
Lyral
Geraniol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Iso, Eugenol
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Florymoss
Triplal
Black Currant Bud Absoflor
Citronica

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
38
11
8
.2
3
1
10
24
6
3
1
3
22
.2
37
1
32
1
3
1
1
1

Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Lavender Oil Provenzo
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Nectaryl
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Lavender Oil
Aldeido C - 14
Linalool - China natural
Myrac Aldehyde
Sandafleur
Pimento
Orangeflor
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Aldehyde 13 - 13
Linalyl Acetate
Ionone 100 %
Lemon Ivory Coast
Perryfix
Jasmonyl Acetate
Floramat
Strawberry pure
Muguet Alcohol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

43

Floral Floral # 4b
Fragrance Ingredient

1
32
3
.1
4
35
9
11
14
1
11
75
5
2
9
68
4
8
11
12
36
23
5
9
338
15
34
3
5
8
33
1
3
2
6

Okumal
Iso E Super
Sandalore
Evernyl
Patchouli Oil F 867
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galbanum Resinoide
Benzyl Salicylate
Laurine Extra
Vanilla Bean Clair
Peonile
Super Cepionate
Brahmanol
Javanol
Lilial
Ionone For Soap Base
Methyl Para Cresole
Citronellol
Iso Amyl Geranate
Gardenia Base
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Aubepine
Geranyl Acetate
Lavende Verte
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Geraniol
Anisalcohol
Lyral
Ionone Alpha 60
Galaxolide 50
Poirinate
Galbanodor
Florymoss
Triplal

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
53
.1
114
5
.1
.1
.1
11
1
4
27
.1
3
5
.1
3
1
8
3
5
.1
.1

Alcohol C - 9
Muguet Base
Rose Oil Otto Bulgaria
Linalol S97
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - A
Undecavertol
Violiff
Geraniol 600
Verdox
Sur Fleurs doranger Oil
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Linalyl Acetate
Folione
Di Ethyl Malonate
Florhydral
Leaf Alcohol
Neroli Bigarad
Styrallyl Acetate
Tangerine, Florida
Nerol
Top Galbanum 18.326 SAB
Methyl Tuberate
Geranio Bourbon

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

44

Floral Floral # 4c
Fragrance Ingredient

6
12
33
4
29
11
6
7
22
9
10
.1
9
85
3
15
22
9
13
1
51
33
6
11
299
15
1
11
3
24
26
33
4
3
11
9

Benzoin Siam Resinoid


Alicate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanillin
Sandela
Benzyle Propionate
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Koavonne
Acetato Benzila
Ionone Alpha
Salicylate DAmyle
Adoxal
Di Metil Phenyl Etil Carbinol
Lilac Base
Pommerol
Lavender Oil
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Citronellol 750
Eugenol
Vanilla Resinoid
Geraniol 98
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Diola
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Ionone Alpha Refined
Rose Crystals
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Anisaldehyde
Cedarwood Oil Port Orford
Lyral
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Methyl Pamplemousse
Cassie Egypt
Aldeido C - 14
Triplal

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
4
.1
12
7
1
3
.3
22
24
1
.1
1
1
4
3
22
2
.3
33
6
3
5

Rose Glycol
Eugenyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Myrac Aldehyde
Thyme White Oil
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Lemon P.G.
Linalool Ex Bdr
Acetate De Geranyle
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Florosia
Pepperwood
Lyrame
Nerol
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Concord Grape, Red
Iso Rose
Linalyl Acetate
Menthanyl Acetate
Jasmone
Benzyl Iso Eugenol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

45

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL
Violet Notes

Top

Lime 1.25 %, Rose, Bergamot 5 %

Green

Orange 2 %, Basil 1 %
Middle
Jasmin 6 %
Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %

Rose 26 %, Muguet 6 %, Violet 3 %

Floral

Lilac 5 %, Carnation 1 %
Base

Resin Tolu 1 %
Sandalwood 1 %, Vanilla 2 %, Moss - Trace
Myrrh - Trace, Patchouli .5 %, Styrax .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Light Balsamic

Glen O. Brechbill

46

Floral Floral # 5a
Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
12
41
9
6
10
1
23
1
6
65
11
8
10
12
8
7
3
10
11
45
48
3
304
1
11
25
.1
19
87
1
.1
.3
1

Styrax Resinoide
Rose Crystals
Vanillin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Oil - Light Color
Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
Salicylate DAmyl
Mousse De Chenne
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Hyacinth Body # 1
Benzyl Acetate
Ethyl, Vanillin
Cinnamic Alcohol
Eugenol
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Citronellol
Acetate DIso Eugenyl
Osyrol
Iraldeine Substitute
Geraniol 60
Terpineol Prime
Hysimal
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Cetonal
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Rosalva
Lilial
Phenylethylalcohol
1, 3, 5 Undecatriene FCC
Aldehyde C - 10
Methyl Heptenon
Cassia Oil - Viet Nam

Fragrance Ingredient

4
27
.2
3
1
22
4
8
.3
.1
1
7
4
.2
23
5
.1
1
4
7
9
3

Vanilla Inco 3
Lyral
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Malus Sylvestris Mill - Apple
Jasmonyl
Orange Oil Sweet - US
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Dihydromyrcenol
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Methyl Octin Carbonate Substitute
Ciclal - C
Hydroxyciol
Menthanyl Acetate
Alcohol C - 9
Orange Florida Valencia
Verdyl Propionate
Bramble Florida Water
Neryl Acetate
Litsea Cubeba Oil
Orange Aldeido
Alpha Ionone 70 %
Jasilyn

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

47

Floral Floral # 5b
Fragrance Ingredient

6
5
23
12
10
.1
42
53
4
11
6
12
10
28
5
4
9
7
9
143
7
5
2
14
.1
23
306
5
3
1
47
3
39
22
6

Amyris Oil E.I.


Patchouli Crude
Benzylsalicylate
Vanillin
Resin Tolu Substitute
Evernyl
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Super Cepionate
Indisan
Amyl Salicylate
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Cinnamique Alcool
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iraldeine Substitute
Styrax Eal Resinoid
Iso - Eugenol
Ethyl Vanillin
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Kephalis
Geraniol 60
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Hyacinth PP
Javanol
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Vanilla Sur Abs.
Citronellol Pure
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Cetone V
Eugenol USP
Rose Acetate
Lilac Base
Boisnal
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Orange Oil Florida C.P. Valencia
Verdyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
9
1
.3
23
.1
1
.4
11
9
4
.1
38
4
3
2
1
.1
.1
1
4
3
3
1

Aldehyde C - 10
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Tuberose Augaflor 25
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Linalool
2, 6 Nonadienal # 332
Anisylalcohol
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Mehtyl Ionone For Soap
Dimetol
Methyl Pamplemousse
Alcool C - 8
Linalyl Acetate
Verdyl Propionate
Neroli Oliffac
OJ Carbinyl STV
Rose Turkey
Orange Flower Water Tunisia
Violet Leaf
Iso Rose
Florhydral
Geranyl Acetate
Tilanol NP
Melfloral

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

48

Floral Floral # 5c
Fragrance Ingredient

11
.1
33
1
4
5
12
10
6
65
.1
29
24
11
1
9
12
10
.6
3
97
14
9
1
299
3
4
7
1
79
.1
14
63
27

Sandalwood Oil Nardanised


Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Mousse De Chenne
Sandela
Tolu Resinoid
Vanillin
Amyl Salicylate
Patchouli Cark
Benzyle Acetate
Alcohol C - 8
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Benzyl Salicylate
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Ethyl Vanisal
Styrax Clarified
Cinnamique Alcool
Sandiff
Anther
Geraniol
Hyacinth Base
Lyrame Super
Rose Crystals
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Hyacinth Body # 1
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Methyl Para Cresole
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Aldehyde C - 10
Linalol
Muguet Base
Citronellol

Fragrance Ingredient

1
4
23
11
1
10
5
.4
.1
29
9
.3
1
7
4
.1
3
.1
.1
1
.1
1
24

Vetynal Extra
Muguet Aldehyde
Orange Oils
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Carnaline
Terpineol P.G.
Verdyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 Lenic
Folione
Linalyl Acetate
Dimetol
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Methyl Jasmonate
Verdyl Propionate
Eugenyl Acetate
Aldehyde Iso C - 11
Basil, Sweet
Undecatriene
Tea Essence
Heliotropin Di Ethyl Acetal
Rose Otto Oil
Petilyn
Ionone Alpha

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

49

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL
Top

Basil 1 %
Orange 5 %, Bergamot 4 % - Fruity, Green Notes

Middle

Floral Herbaceous

Rose 14 % - Sweet

Hexyl Salicylate 2 %
Terpinyl Acetate 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 %

Lavender 4 %, Violet 3 %, Muguet 5 %

Base

Tonka 1 %, Musk 2 %, Sandalwood 3 %

Floral

Vanilla 4 %

Civet - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Sweet

Glen O. Brechbill

50

Floral Floral # 6a
Fragrance Ingredient

11
27
8
19
24
35
.1
9
1
6
4
3
15
13
46
1
1
4
52
.1
32
16
7
18
263
4
118
3
1
.1
53
14
46
3
16
3

Benzyl Benzoate
Sandalwood Extender
Coumarin
Vanillin
Musk Gx 50 % in DEP
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Base # 3
Benzylsalicylate
Ambrinol
Helional
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Florosia
Ethyl Vanisal
Eugenol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Doremox
Rose Crystals
Cashmeran
Super Cepionate
Rosalva
Lavender Fresh 50/51
Iso Bornyl Acetate
Citronellol
Carnation Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Benteine
Geraniol 980 Pure
Levenalis
Helioforte
Alcool C - 09
Muguet Base
Linalool Extra 99 %
Orange Base
Basil Oil Sweet USA
Hexyl Salicylate
Bonorax

Fragrance Ingredient

5
1
7
12
2
4
1
3
.3
5
2
11
4
5
7
6
.1
1
3
27
.1
1
3
1
.3

Orange Sweet USA


Vanillyl Alcohol
Ionone Alpha
Terpinyl Acetate
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Ocimenyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate
Clarycet
Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Jessemal
Fir Needle Canadian
Herboxane
Fir Needle Canadian
Verdyl Propionate
Lindenol
Undecavertol
Neryl Acetate
Koavonne
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Leaf Alcohol
Cantryl
Helioboquet
Physalis
Caryophellene Acetate

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

51

Floral Floral # 6b
Fragrance Ingredient

23
4
10
26
8
35
29
9
.1
1
18
57
36
6
1
5
2
39
6
9
22
5
77
46
289
1
3
.1
19
3
.1
8
33

Vanillin
Brahmanol
Benzyl Benzoate
Etilen Brasilate
Cou Marin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Substitute
Benzyl Salicylate
Civet Tincture
Galbanum Resinoid
Ethyl Vanillin
Acetato Benzila
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Amyris Oil W.I.
Levanalis
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Serenolide
Ionone Intermediate Base
Citronellol
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Eugenol
Hydrofix R
Geraniol 60 %
Hydroxycitronellol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iso Rose
Sandalore
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Apple Juice Givco
Aldehyde C - 10
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Lavender Bulgaria Oil

Fragrance Ingredient

14
3
6
3
11
.1
4
2
3
48
17
.1
4
.1
.1
1
2
3
3
28
5
.3
1
3
5

Amyl Salicylate
Macrolide
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Helional
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Rose Turkey Abs. - Turkey
Dihydro Floralol
Styrallylacetate
Troenan
Orange Sweet Argentina Valencia
Linalool
Rose Oxide L
Basil Oil ( Ocimum Cynan Oil )
Orange Essence Oil
Viola Oderata L.
Roseate
Gelsol F
Verdyl Propionate
Myraldyl Acetate
Linalyl Acetate
Nerol
Muguet Alcohol
Petilyn
Ylang Givco 225
Iridales

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

52

Floral Floral # 6c
Fragrance Ingredient

11
18
9
1
57
29
9
.1
4
23
18
6
8
43
8
18
14
1
58
15
19
118
3
23
9
18
276
4
1
27
33
1
3
.1

Coumane
Vanisal
Benzyl Benzoate
Benzoin Siam # 2
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Extender
Benzylsalicylate
Civet Base
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Amyl Salicylate
Fir Needle Oil Canada
Anther
Osyrol
Hedione
Benteine
Irone Alpha
Citronellol Pure
Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Eugenol
Rose For Soap Base
Geraniol 60
Brahmanol
Lilial
Iraldeine 100 %
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propileno Glico
Myraldyl Acetate
Amberonne
Lyral
Linalyl Acetate
Anisaldehyde Di Methyl Acetal
Nutmeg Oil - Sir Lanka
Alcohol C - 8

Fragrance Ingredient

55
18
1
2
.1
4
1
.1
7
4
.1
3
1
3
5
6
.1
5
.1
1
4
.2
3
.1
1

Orange Oil Valencia


Linalool
Shiso
Styrallyl Acetate
Cassia rectified
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Cyclemone A
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Hexyl Salicylate
Eugenol Iso
Nonadienal
Cassifex
Cinnamon Leaf
Diola
Methyl Jasmonate
Verdyl Propionate
Jasmin Indian Abs.
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Geranyl Acetate
Gelsone
Irone V
Acetato Para Cresol
Flor De Laranga Eter
Ylang Oil # 3
Muguet Augaflor

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

53

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL
Top

Bergamot 11 % - Fruity
Orange 3 %, Neroli 1 %, Lemon 1 %, Lime 1 %, Wintergreen - Trace

Fruity

Grapefruit 1 %, Peach 1 %, Lavender - Trace, Cherry, Strawberry .25 %


Middle

Rose 11 % - Warm

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %


Vertofix 2 %
Green Accord
Base

Muguet 4 %, Violet 3 %, Jasmin 2 %

Floral

Lily 1 %, Carnation 3 %
Cedarwood 3 %
Vanilla - Trace, Tonka 3 %, Musk 1 %
Sandalwood 1 %, Patchouli .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Sweet

Glen O. Brechbill

54

Floral Floral # 7a
Fragrance Ingredient

4
31
12
1
24
5
39
3
48
8
22
6
5
23
18
7
5
8
4
23
49
1
36
65
314
4
.1
1
4
3
19
.3
1
5
.1

Vanilline
Coumarin Substitute
Benzyle Propionate
Musk 50 DPG
Cedarwood Oil Port Orford
Patchone
Benzyl Salicylate
Vanillinethyl
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Amil Cinamico Aldeido
Cedrenyl Acetate
Sandalore
Vertofix Coeur
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Lilie
Muguet Aldehyde
Citronellol Prime
Balsam Peru Oil
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Geraniol
Rhovanil Natural
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Rose Oxide R
Meijiff
Cedraclaire
Eugenol
Witergreen Oil
Tuberose Substitute
Benzaldehyde
Rose Templar

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
48
1
6
.1
5
34
.1
7
.3
6
1
.2
11
8
.3
6
3
58
5
.1
1
7

Methyl Jasmonate Pure


Linalool Coeur
Vanillyl Alcohol
Ionone Alpha White Coeur
Celery Essence
Aldeido C - 16
Orange Oil, Sweet
Methyl Octyne Carbonate
Dimetol
Alcohol C - 10
Tangerine Flavor Oil Natural
Meranol
Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
Grapefruit Brazil
Nectaryl
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Ionone Alpha 70 %
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Linalyl Acetate
Neroli Oil Tunisian
Geraniol 600
Floramat
Peach Pure - Givaudan

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

55

Floral Floral # 7b
Fragrance Ingredient

6
3
31
26
48
7
14
5
9
11
38
1
.1
27
4
19
1
4
3
14
3
.1
2
6
55
324
.1
58
5
1
38
38
13
28
1

Iso E Super
Vanillin
Cedarwood Oil Virginia
Rhodiascent Extra Pure
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Oil Light
Etilen Brasilate
Benzyl Propionate
Sandalore
Nepalva
Benzyl Salicylate
Ethyl Vanisal
Rosalva
Vetiver Extender
Balsam Peru Oil
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Sweet Grass
Tonka Resinoid
Methyl Benzoate
Citronellol
Guaicwood Acetate
Rose Oil Templar
Anisyl Alcohol
Benteine
Geraniol 60
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Lavender Oil Bulgarian
Alpha Damascone
Linalol
Muguet Base
Tuberose Substitute
Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
.3
.1
6
1
6
4
38
.1
.4
5
3
1
.1
.5
1
4
1
11
1
.1
57
9
6
1

Viola Odorata
Alcohol C - 10
Orange Bitter Africa
Benzaldehyde
Florymoss
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Eugenyl Acetate
Orange Oil Florida
Leaf Alcohol
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Nerol Coeur
Bisabolene
Methyl Salicylate
Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric
Neroli Oil - Citrus Aurantism
Tangeria Oil Extra
Neryl Acetate
Lemon Spain
Hydrofix L
Neroliflor
Linalyl Acetate
Grapefruit Oil California
Peach Blossom FM - 1042
Aldehyde C - 16

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

56

Floral Floral # 7b
Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
14
9
11
28
53
6
42
1
11
3
10
14
2
1
4
66
3
5
9
6
35
.1
4
48
9
314
37
.2
1
.1
22
53
68
.1

Vanisal
Patchone
Vertofix Coeur
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Benzyle Propionate
Cou Marin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Oil
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Anisyl Alcohol
Vetiver Extender
Cedrenyl Acetate
Amil Cinamic Aldeido
Citronellol
Ethyl Vanillin
Rose Acetal
Sandalore
Rose For Soap Base
Methyl Diantilis
Methyl Phenyl Acetate
Lilie
Di Methyl Octanol
Eugenol
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Heliotropine
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Ionone Intermediate Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Lyral
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Methyl Salicylate
Aldeido C - 10
Super Cepionate
Geraniol 60
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Cinnimate

Fragrance Ingredient

1
4
3
.1
9
.2
6
.3
3
12
4
8
.1
1
38
6
12
3
2
33
10
1
.1

Guaiyl Acetate
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Eugenyl Acetate
Alcohol C - 10
Phenyle Ethyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Benzaldehyde 98 %
Geraniol 600
Sandalwood Super Eco
Persicol SA
Aldehyde C - 16
Lime Oil Roses Type 001
Folione
Vanillyl Alcohol
Linalool
Neroli Oliffac
Grapefruit
Diola
Truffle Oil
Orange Oil Sweet - Sicilian
Lemon Oil, Argentina
Bonorax
Fraise 3333 SA

1,0000

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57

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FLORAL
Neroli 1 %

Top

Orange 3 %, Lemon 1 %, Lavender 1 %, Strawberry .5 %

Floral Fruity

Bergamot 11 % - Fruity, Wintergreen - Trace, Grapefruit 1 %, Peach 1 %, Lime 1 %


Rose 7 % - Warm

Middle
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Vertofix 3 %
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %
Base

Muguet 4 %, Violet 3 %, Jasmin 2 %

Floral

Lily 1.5 %, Carnation 3 %


Cedarwood 3 %
Vanilla 2 %, Tonka 3 %, Musk 1 %
Sandalwood 2 %, Patchouli .75 %

Cutters
Benzyl Propionate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

58

Floral Floral # 8a
Fragrance Ingredient

4
48
9
12
10
28
9
30
8
32
1
10
8
21
19
6
13
29
38
4
11
6
8
17
9
1
295
35
26
3
9
17
29
10
.1
4

Brahmanol
Di Ethyl Phthalate
Vanillin
Galaxoide
Benzyle Propionate
Coumane
Vanillin, ethyl
Cedar Atlantica Oil
Patchouli Rectified Oil
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Methyl Salicylate
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Canada Fir Balsam
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Benzyl Acetate
Methyl Benzoate
Para Cresyl redistilled
Vertofix Coeur
Muguet Base
Rosone
Ionone Alpha Refined
Diola
Citronellol
Jasmin Province Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Balsam Peru Oil
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Carnation Base
Lyrame Super
Cinnamic Alcohol
Sandalwood Substitute
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Grapefruit Oil C.P. FCC
Alcohol C - 10
Lime Oil 410

Fragrance Ingredient

10
10
.1
5
42
3
.3
8
1
14
6
.1
.2
1
3
5
.1
56
4
.1
12
1
4
3

Aroma Peach Base


Lavender Oliffac
Alcohol C - 9
Clementine (o)
Linalool Natural
Methyl Cedrylone
Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
Neroli Bigarade
Azarbre
Peach Aldehyde
Hydroxycitronellal
Orange, Blood Tarocco
Aldeido C - 11 Undecilenic
Jasmone
Galbanodor
Dimetol
Methyl Cinnimate
Linalyl Acetate
Grapefruitone
Rose Oxide R
Lemon Oil Spanish
Fraise 3333 SA
Sandalore
Tangerinol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

59

Floral Floral # 8b
Fragrance Ingredient

8
11
.1
42
19
7
9
3
30
9
22
26
1
6
48
25
6
18
.1
20
5
3
14
27
9
4
300
23
3
13
9
8
35
12
.1
1
25

Vanillin ex Clove Oil


Helional
Rose Crystals
( DEP )
Osyrol
Patchouli Light
Benzyle Propionate
Geranium,Egypt
Benzylsalicylate
Ethylene Brassylate
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Cedro ( Arvore )
Milfoil East European
Vanillin, ethyl
Hydroxycitronellal A
Vertofix Coeur
Metil Benzoato
Benzyl Iso Eugenol 903
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Citronellol Coeur
Meijiff
Para Cresyl redistilled
Ionone For Soap
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Indisan
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Carnation Base
Methyl Cedrylone
Ionone Alpha Refined
Cinnamic Alcohol
Lavender Fine
Orange Sweet
Lemon Guinea
Aldehyde C 11 - 11
Vamba
Geraniol

Fragrance Ingredient

.7
1
1
.1
1
3
.5
4
7
.2
51
38
8
1
1
.1
.1
1
11
4
2
11
4
2
9
38

Alcohol C - 10
Lime Oil W.I. Distilled
Pommerol
Aldehdye C - 10
Floreal
Beramot Calabria
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Tangerina
Methyl Jasmonate pure
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Linalyl Acetate Extra 97.5 %
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Dimetol
Syvertal
Pearlate
Methyl Salicylate
Leaf Alcohol
Iso Eugenol
Grapefruit, Oil Florida - US
Supafleur
Neroli Oil Morocco
Persicol
Kephalis
Nerol
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Linalool

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

60

Floral Floral # 8c
Fragrance Ingredient

11
3
28
1
50
29
18
8
13
9
29
4
3
18
23
9
4
32
43
8
6
1
9
12
7
44
276
7
45
15
33
12
.1
1
9

Musk 50 DEP
Rose Crystals
Cou Marin
Amber Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedarwood Atlas
Sandalore
Benzyle Propionate
Vanillin
Patchouli Oil MD
Benzyl Salicylate
Helioropine
Cedrafix
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Benzyl Acetate 99 %
Ethyl Vanisal
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
Vertofix Coeur
Geraniol
y - Irone
Ethylene Brassylate
Jasmone
Metil Benzoato
Ionone Alpha Refined
Citronellol
Muguet Base
Proplino Glico
Javanol
Linalol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Carnation Base
Peach Aldehyde
Alcohol C - 8
Myraldyl Acetate
Neroli Oliffac

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
35
2
13
.1
.3
1
.1
3
.1
8
63
1
.1
13
1
9
4
.1
11
1
10
1
3
1

Alcool C - 10
Orange Peel Oil Sweet China
Vetiver Java
Orange Oil - Citrus Sinensius
Methyl Geranate
Aldehyde C - 10
Chandanone
Rose Damascenia
Lioral
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenico
Irisone Bis
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Octyl Ketone
Aldehyde C - 12 Laurico
Dimetol
Amberwood
Lemon Oil Cold Pressed
Hydroxyciol
Parmavert
Grapefruit White
Anisalcohol
Lavender Bulgaria
Methyl Salicylate
Para Cresyl redistilled
Bergamot Calabrian Supreme

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Floral Bouquet

FLORAL BOUQUET
The Floral Bouquet fmaily is feminine, and is new and one of my favorites. Some perfumers refer it as a
Frangipianni. In my mind it can be based on jasmin, rose, muguet, gardenia, carnation or for that matter any
floral material. The direction of this group can be based on any theme including fresh floral top notes and fruity
arrangements.
Top

Lemon 2 %
Rose - Trace, Bergamot 6 %, Pineapple 1 %

Floral Fruity

Strawberry
Middle

Rose 11 % - Sweet
Muguet 9 %, Violet 6 %, Lilac 4 %

Floral

Jasmin 5 %, Carnation 2 %
Base

Sandalwood 4 %
Cedar 3 %, Vanilla 3 %
Musk 5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 5 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Sweet

Glen O. Brechbill

62

Floral Bouquet # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

9
.1
3
35
42
4
15
.1
5
9
13
28
53
1
22
.1
71
38
3
6
18
11
83
1
326
6
3
4
1
6
38
11
24
.1
1

Iso & Super


Vanilla Absolute
Acetate Iso Eugenol
SandalwoodSubstitute
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedrafix
Vanillin
Mousse D Arbre
Anandol
Irisone Pure
Ethyl Vanillin
Cedarwood China BPC
Ionone Intermediate Base
Anisyl Alcohol
Laurine Extra
Vanilla Absolute
Muguet Base
Terpineol Prime
Metil Benzoato
Citronellol
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Geraniol
Sandalore
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Rose Artificial
Iso - Eugenol
Geranyl Acetate
Bisabolene
Lilial
Benzyl Salicylate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Linalol
Alcohol C - 8
Carnaline

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
18
.2
.1
3
12
4
10
.1
1
.1
37
5
3
1
4
2
1
.1
3
1
2
1
1

Rose Bulgria
Lemon Oil of California
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Methyl Cinnimate
White Rose
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Nerol
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Leaf Alcohol
Methyl Tuberate Pure
Folione
Linalyl Acetate
Strawberry pure
Grapefruit Pink
Nerolidol
Bergamot C.P. Italy
Top Galbanum 18.326
Poirinate
Ylang Heart No. 3
Hysimal
Roseardia Augaflor 21
Cyclogalbonate
Melonis
Neryl Acetate

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

63

Floral Bouquet # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
1
38
17
42
29
1
11
1
18
44
15
3
6
8
5
38
1
3
22
7
64
3
78
314
9
14
3
6
43
6
27
1
.1
4

Osyrol
Vanilla Bean Clear
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Vanillin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Extender
Gardenia Fleuriff
Benzyle Benzoate
Piperonal ( Heliotropine )
Cedarwood Oil of Virginia
Acetate De Benzyle
Ethyl Vanillin
Cedrenyl Acetate
Lilial
Sandalo Misore
Citronellol
Terpineol PG
Heliomet
Di Methyl Octanol
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Anisic Aldehyde
Geraniol 60
Kephalis
Muguet Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
alpha - Ionone
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Sandalwood Oliffac
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Orange Sweet Israel
Linalol
Top Galbanum 18.326
Alcohol C - 9
Strawberry Aldehyde

Fragrance Ingredient

2
.1
.2
1
24
9
.1
.1
3
.1
.1
3
33
2
.1
11
3
2
1
5
.1
3
2

Cananga Oil Java


Ionone
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Methyl Diantilis
Lemon Oil, Brazil
Rose Base
Leaf Alcohol
Tagette Flower
Persicol
3 - Octanol
Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
Para Cresyl redistilled
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Pollenal 2
Orange Flower Ether
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Lemon Sicilian Pelarice
Neryl Acetate
Iso Jasmone
Lilestrallis 22
Rose China Oil
Jarraral
Santalol

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

64

Floral Bouquet # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

37
42
14
11
5
6
4
33
11
46
48
59
3
1
.1
1
23
6
14
35
25
84
43
.1
1
290
3
9
1
27
18
.1
23
.1
4
1

Sandalwood Oil Substitute


Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanillin
Benzyl Benzoate
Cedrenyl Acetate
Vanilla Beans, Indonesia
Anthea Sandal Coeur
Cedarwood Oil Microscopy
Vanillin, ethyl
Benyzl Acetate FFC
Benzyl Slaicylate - IFF
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Sandalore
Hydroxycitronellal 97 %
Rosalva
Aubepine
Iso Eugenol Replacement
alpha - Ionone
Citronellol
Terpineol Prime
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
Muguet Base
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Alpha Damascone
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Lilial
Phenylethylalcohol
Sandiff
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Linalol
Neroli Egypt Essence
Lemon Oil South African
Alcool C - 8
Strawberry Aldehyde
Noz Moscada

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
1
3
1
.1
4
3
.1
11
.1
1
.1
1
3
1
4
1
1
1
27
3
2
4

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Heliogan
Phenoxanol
Vanillyl Alcohol
Mimosa Abs.
Nerol 96 %
Aldehyde C - 16
Methyl Tuberate
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Viola Odorata
Cananga Java
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Bonorax
Carnation Augaflor 51
Hydroxyciol
Alpha - Ionol
Pamplemousse E. Blanc
Galbanum Oil Artessence
Iris Beurre Oil
Linalyl Acetate
Nerol
Nectaryl
Di Hydro Jasmone

1,000

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65

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL BOUQUET
Bergamot 3 %

Top

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Green Notes 1 %, Lavender .5 %

Fresh Fruity

Peach - Trace
Rose 19 %

Middle

Jasmin 5 %, Violet 5 %, Lilac 1 %

Floral

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 %


Carnation 1 %, Muguet 5 %
Base

Musk 3 %
Tonka 1.5 %, Cedarwood 3 %, Sandalwood 3 %
Amber - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

66

Floral Bouquet # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

13
.1
8
6
9
35
14
6
.1
5
28
49
37
1
46
149
6
.1
12
10
.1
22
304
1
4
46
2
17
3
1
.1

Musk Cetona
Ambrinol - Firmenich
Alicate
Iso E Super
Benzyl Salicylate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Traseolide
Levanalis
Heliomet
Di Hydro Coumarex
Cedarwood Rectified
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Flor De Laranja Eter
Benzyle Acetate
Rose Substitute
Hydroxycitronellal A
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Citronellol 850
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Lilac Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Bois Amberene Forte
Di Methyl Octanol
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Syringa Aldehyde
Phenylethylalcohol
Phenyle Ethyl Acetate
Atralone
Aldeido C - 10

Fragrance Ingredient

19
.6
12
.3
.1
7
3
4
37
.2
11
1
3
.1
4
2
4
1
2
24
3
1
3
8
.1
.1

Vanoris
Tuberose Oliffac
Linalol Natural
Aldehyde C - 11 lenic
Galbanum Oil Artessence
Lavender Oil 40/42
Muguet Des Bois 11793
Cyclorose
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Citrus Corps
Para Cresyl Acetate
Alcohol C - 9
Methyl Benzoate
Styrallyl Acetate
Helioboquet
Honeysuckle
Meranol
Linalyl Acetate
Scennal
Orris Oil - Italy
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
Florida Oil Guinea
Geraniol 600
Kir Base # 9741

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

67

Floral Bouquet # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

4
9
22
38
9
32
29
.1
5
4
6
5
17
19
28
15
.1
11
24
143
12
37
.1
4
325
3
18
11
63
1
16
4
.1
1
1
3

Chandanone
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Sandela
Ethylene Brassylate
Di Hydro Coumarex
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedarwood Texas
Atralone
Sandec Givco
Benzyl Iso Eugenol
Traseolide
Khoavone
Lavender Oil - France
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Hydroxycitronellal 99 %
Alcohol C - 8
Eugenol USP
Ionone Alpha Refined
Geraniol
Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade )
Rose Substitute
Exaltolide
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Benzoin Resinoid
Citronellol
Irisone Pure
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Florymoss
Iso Nonyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Scennal
Geranium Oil Bourbon
Jasmone

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
.1
1
1
3
9
4
.1
1
.2
22
4
11
1
1
3
2
1
1
1
.1
1
3

Rosa Centifolia
Sandalwood Essence
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Mugone S207M
Nectaryl
Linalool
Hydroxyciol
Rose Oxide R
Cassia
Methyl Tuberate
Linalyl Acetate
Gardenia Fleuriff
Ylang Ylang Substitute
Meranol
Tamarind Oil
Jasmorange F
Kohinool
Neroli Oliffac
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Vanilla Mexicana
Rose
Geranyl Linalool
Aquamor

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

68

Floral Bouquet # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
1
35
14
28
31
5
3
10
6
3
4
1
38
43
1
59
12
19
4
23
5
1
48
339
1
152
1
1
12
9
3
.1

Civet Powder
Mousse De Chenne
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Coumarin Extra Pure
Traseolide
Cedarwood Oil Texas
Vanilla Tincture 20 %
Heliotropine
Benzyl Salicylate
Musc BRB
Kephalis
Amyris Oil
Benzyl Iso Eugenol
Aldeido Cinamic Amil
Ionone Intermediate Base
Damascenia 185 SA
Acetato Benzila
Lindenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Sandalwood - Australia
Tuberose Sbustitute
Lavender Oil, Moldovan
Rosone
Hydroxycitronellol Pure 99 % FCC
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iris Beurre Oil
Geraniol 80
Datilat
Geranium Oil - Egypt
Citronellol
Eugenol
Naturanate
Alcohol C - 10

Fragrance Ingredient

5
11
1
4
3
2
.2
13
3
.1
.1
.1
24
3
.1
1
4
.1
.1
6
1
1
3
2

Meijiff
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Muguet Alcohol
Tuberose Oliffac
Linacol
Pasion Fruit
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Syringa
Bulgaflor
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Rose Abs. Bulgarian
Vanoris
Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast
Leaf Alcohol
Citronica
Trepanol
Ylang Ylang # 2
Rose Oxide L
Tangerine - Syria
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Santalyl Acetate
Galbex 183
Jamaica Oil

1,000

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69

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Green Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate C - 9
Aldehyde C - 6
Aldehyde C - 8
Alfania Base 38228
Ambrose Abs.
A C A Di Methyl Acetal
Amyl Salicylate
Anisyl Formate
Armoise Oil

Powerful fruity green leafy.


Powerful fatty green grassy odor.
Soft woody green mildly floral odor.
If a compound based on alfalfa most likely green or herbal.
A very strong green floral type fragrance.
Peculiar animal green odor.
Sweet herbaceous green slightly floral.
Sweet herbaceous green somewhat dry odor.
Herbaceous green.

Balinol
Benzyl Formate
Bois Amberene Forte
Bourgeon De Cassis

A green floral compound.


Powerful fruity green herbaceous.
Green floral odor.
Green.

Cassis Base 345 B


Cassis Fragrance
CIS 3 Hexenyl Acetate
CIS 3 Hexenyl Benzoate
CIS 3 Hexyl Alcohol
CIS 3 Hexyl Salicylate.
Citralva
Citronellal
Citronellyl Formate
Cortex Aldehyde
Cumin Aldehyde
Cuminic Aldehyde
Cyclal - C
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Cyclo Galbonate

A green fruity floral character.


Strong green fruity floral fragrance.
Intensely green sharp fruity, very diffusive, dilution - banana.
Mild, but tenacious green herbaceous woody odor.
Powerful, and intensely green grassy odor.
Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor.
Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor.
Powerful fresh green citrusy, slight woody odor.
Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light Rem of geranium rose.
Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet.
Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy slightly fatty odor.
Pungent green herbaceous odor.
Powerful green leafy floral odor.
Diffusive powerful floral green stem like odor.
Strong herbaceous green.

Decatone
A strong green odor.
Di Ethyl Malonate
Sweet pleasant fruity green reminiscent of apples.
Di M Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol Soft floral green.
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Glen O. Brechbill

70

Di Phenyl Oxide

Harsh floral green.

Ethyl Levlulinate
Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate

Ethereal fruity, somewhat green and sweet odor.


Powerful diffusive green fruity pungent odor Rem of apple peels.

Farnesol
Feuillage Vert Base 47.062
Fleuroxene
Floral N
Floromat
Floropal
Florosa
Florosia

Mildly floral delicately sweet oily fresh green odor.


Green floral base possessing a cool natural freshness.
A strong green floral woody nondescript odor.
A soft slightly green floral odor.
A floral green type odor.
Herbal fresh floral green.
A light sweet delicately floral green fragrance.
A light sweet green floral.

Galbanum Oil
Galbex 183
Geranium Bourbon
Geranyl Acetone
Geranyl Formate
Grapefruit Body Fleurom
Gyrane

Spring green leafy like.


Woody green herbaceous odor.
Green leafy rosy strong.
Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green.
Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor.
Extremely powerful green grapefruit odor.
A diffusive herbal green type odor.

Heptavert
Herbaflorat
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Hexyl Benzoate

A green woody odor.


Green sweet fruity.
Oily sweet fruity green apple, and galbanum like odor.
Woody green piney balsamic odor.
Homo Cumminic Aldehyde 50 Pw, diffusive green twiggy effect with cut grass hedge like odor.
Hyacinth Body
Powerful leafy green with hyacinth note.
Hydratropic Aldehyde
Very powerful penetrating green earth foilage.
Hydratropic A D M Acetal Powerful, earthy warm spicy green deep fruity odor.
Hydrofix L
Sweet floral lily with a fresh green dry out.
Hydroxycitronellal X Citronellol Muguet sweet floral green, citrusy fresh.
Iso Cyclo Citral

Powerful and diffusive floral green.

Jacintheme 135 SA

Reminiscent of the green floral heart of hyacinth.

Leaf Acetal Extra


Leaf Acetate
Leaf Alcohol
Leaf Salicylate
Liffarome
Ligustral

Powerful oily green odor with a sweet vegetable undertone.


Intensely green diffusive odor.
Powerful fruity green slightly fruity.
Sweet, slightly green balsamic odor.
Violet green.
Fresh green.

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71

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lilial
Lile Strallis 22
Linalyl Formate
Lyral

Sweet yet refreshing floral green.


Fresh light green floral, reminiscent of lilial.
Fresh citrusy green bergamot like.
Delicately sweet, light and floral.

Mallow
Mayol
Melon Enhancer
Melonyl 86471 VMF
Methyl Heptenone Extra
Methyl Hexyl Ketone
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
Mimosa Abs. Essence
Muguet Aldehyde 50

A slightly green sweet floral fragrance.


A sweet green floral material.
A diffusive green melon type odor.
A very nice light sweet green melon odor very diffusive.
Fruity green slightly waxy.
Pleasant floral bitter green, slightly musty.
Green violet leaf like.
Earth green reminiscent of gardenia and hyacinth.
A green floral delicately mimosa like.
Diffusive green muguet lily type odor.

Nerolidol
Nerolidyl Acetate

Mild and delicately floral slight green reminiscent of apple lily.


Sweet woody and mildly refreshing green.

Olibanum Oil
Orris Resinoid

Strongly diffusive fresh terpeney green.


A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.

Phenyl Acetaldehyde
Phenyl A Glycerine Acetal
Phenyl Di Methyl Acetal
Phenyl Ethyl Acetal
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Propyl Acetate
Phenyl Propyl Aldehyde

Powerful green wood sap like.


Peculiar oily green earthy ranty, but mild and sweet.
Powerful green earthy flower stem like odor.
Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor.
Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Fresh floral powerful fruity green.
Floral hyacinth, lilac, balsamic green.

Rhodinyl Formate
Rhodinyl Valerate
Rose Crystals

Fresh leafy green delicate rosy.


Heavy fruity, slight earthy green, but also sweet odor.
Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.

Scentenal
Stemone
Strallyl Acetate
Strallyl Propionate
Syringa Aldehyde

Powerful green refreshing watery floral.


Green slightly herbaceous odor.
Powerful and penetrating green floral in dilution.
Balsamic green floral type odor.
Powerful and refreshing green fruity forest like sweet odor.

Taget Abs.
Tolyl Acetate

Intensely herbaceous green with a sweet fruity undertone.


Sweet floral fruity and mildly green.

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Glen O. Brechbill

72

Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate


Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate

Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor.


Powerful herbaceous green and fresh woody odor.

Undecavertol

Strong, however not over powering slightly green floral odor.

Vern Aldehyde
Vetchouli

Fresh green.
Green herbaceous odor.

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73

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Floral Green

FLORAL GREEN
A floral green fragrance are natural in nature compounded by blending of herbs, ferns, mosses and citrus
fruits. This group is characterized of typical botanical fragrance notes, like those of leaves, stalks or freshly
mown grass as well as cucumber-violet-like green notes. Generally relying on parts of plants, and flowers such
as Muguet, or Lily of the Valley. They can be delicate as Muguet or have a strong stem like note characteristic
of Styrallyl Acetate or Cyclamen Aldehyde. Green is often used to describe lush forests, fallen leaves during
the autumn, a woodland meadow, or grassland. They can be further subdivided under Fresh and Balsamic.
Galbanum or Olibanum would be in the later family, or the can be a green accord such as Cassis.
Top

Green Notes 1.5 %


Violet Notes, Cassis .5 %, Melon 1.5 %, Jasmin

Green

Pineapple 1 %, Green Materials 2 - 4 %, Apple .5 %


Middle

Muguet 5 %
Lily 12 %, Carnation 2 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet

Floral

Lilac 2 %, Jasmin 3 %, Violet 3 %


Base

Musk 6 %
Tonka .5 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Galbanum 2 %
Civet - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %
Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Animalic

Glen O. Brechbill

74

Floral Green # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

53
21
9
18
6
43
5
22
3
12
.1
34
11
1
48
15
19
6
4
13
19
12
4
37
.1
315
1
69
7
11
63
1
.1
14
9

Galaxolide 50
Sandalwood Extender
Benzylique Alcool
Galbanum Coulress A
Coumane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Javanol
Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China
Heliotropine
Amyl Cinnamic aldehyde
Civet Ethiopian
Hydroxycitronellal A
Jasmin Artificial Base
Geranodyle
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Eugenol
Methyl Benzoate
Rose Substitute
Lindenol
Citronellol
Sweet Grass
Lilial
Rosalva
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Tuberose Oliffac
Geraniol
Iso & Super
Lysmeral
Muguet Base
Applinal
2, 6 Nonaiden 1 OL
Styrallyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

1
26
3
2
4
9
.1
4
.1
2
3
1
.3
4
1
3
15
2
1
.2
10
4

cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate


Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso
Di Ethyl Malonate
Methyl Jasmonate pure
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Linalol
Aldehyde C - 8
Top Galbanum 18.326
Celery Essence
Apple Oliffac
Green Base Augaflor 10
Muguet Alcohol
Leaf Salicylate
Vern Aldehyde
Methyl Tuberate
Scennal
Linalyl Acetate
Cassis Fragrance
Iridales
Damascol - 4
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Hydroxyciol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

75

Floral Green # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

6
1
44
.1
9
17
43
21
9
7
16
13
25
6
4
15
9
14
25
3
.1
8
.1
14
323
18
114
55
3
14
35
4
.1
11
3

Brahmanol
Evernyl
Galaxolide 50 in DPG
Civet Abs. A
Santal Core
Galbanum Res. 3918 P
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyl Alcohol
Cashmeran
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Jasmin Artificial
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Salicylate DBenzyle
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Verdilyn
Rose Substitute
Eugenol
Hexil Cinamico Aldeido
Ionone Alpha 60
Cyclo Galbanate
Rose Oxide L
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Citronellol
Propileno Glico
Terpineol Prime
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Geraniol 90
Metil Benzoato
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Hedione
Top Galbanum 18.326
Aldehyde C - 8
Styrallyl Acetate
Verdox

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
3
15
17
.1
6
5
1
4
22
3
1
3
5
1
4
7
1
11
1
.2
1

2, 6 Nonadienal
Petunial
Carnation Base
Melon Oliffac
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Linalool 925
Hydroxy Extra
Cyclal - C
Apple Oliffac
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Florosa
Limette Pressee Afroid
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Tuberose Oliffac
Irisone Pure
Kir Base # 9741
Lyrame
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Jasmone
Neryl Acetate
Sandalore

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

76

Floral Green # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

53
21
9
18
6
43
5
22
3
12
.1
34
11
1
48
15
19
6
4
13
19
12
4
37
.1
315
1
69
7
11
63
1
.1
14
9

Ethylene Brassylate
Sandela
Benzylique Alcool
Galbanum Coulress A
Coumane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Javanol
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
Heliotropine
alpha Amyl Cinnamic aldehyde
Civet Tincture
Hydroxycitronellal A
Jasmin Artificial Base
Geranodyle
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Eugenol
Methyl Benzoate
Rose For Soap Base
Lindenol
Citronellol
Sweet Grass
Lilial
Polarose
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Tuberose Oliffac
Geraniol
Iso & Super
Lysmeral
Muguet Base
Applinal
2, 6 Nonaiden 1 OL
Styrallyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

1
26
3
2
4
9
.1
4
.1
2
3
1
.3
4
1
3
15
2
1
.2
10
4

cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate


Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso
Di Ethyl Malonate
Methyl Jasmonate pure
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Linalol
Aldehyde C - 8
Top Galbanum 18.326
Celery Essence
Apple Oliffac
Green Base Augaflor 10
Muguet Alcohol
Leaf Salicylate
Vern Aldehyde
Methyl Tuberate
Scennal
Linalyl Acetate
Cassis Fragrance
Iridales
Damascol - 4
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Hydroxyciol

1,000

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77

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN
Top

Green Notes .6 %
Bergamot 3 % - Fruity, Cassis 1 %, Peach 3 %

Fruity Green

Green Materials, Apple 1 %


Middle

Carnation 1 %
Muguet 12 %, Jasmin 14 %, Lilac 2 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %


Base

Floral

Violet 5 %, Rose 6 % - Warm


Musk 2 %
Tonka - Trace, Moss - Trace, Galbanum 1 %
Cedarwood 2 %

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Animal Sweet

Glen O. Brechbill

78

Floral Green # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

13
6
10
.1
11
48
1
29
17
8
13
6
123
15
6
3
.1
62
5
2
.1
13
6
19
8
314
4
1
8
.1
103
3
1
18
.1
1
4

Iso & Super


Coumane
Benzyl Alcohol
Moss Oliffac
Galbanum Resinoid - Iran
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Safranal
Benzyl Salicylate
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Cedrenyl Acetate
Benzoin Resinoid
Tradeolide
Acetate De Benzyle
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Anis Aldehyde
Cedro ( Folha )
Roseessence 193 D
Ionone Intermediate Base
Jasmonyl Acetate
Cedraclaire
Fir Balsam
Ionone Alpha Refined
Heliotropine
Terpineol
Pine Oil Light
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Citornellol
Methyl Tuberate
Jasmin Province Base
Alcohol C - 6
Muguet Base
Apple Blossom FM - 1242
Carnaline
Geraniol
Ylang Heart No. 3
Bergamot Oil - FCF
Lavender Oil Clonal

Fragrance Ingredient

2
7
11
4
5
14
.3
1
1
7
9
1
3
29
.1
3
1
4
3
2
1
.1
4
2

Di Methyl Octanol
Cassis Fragrance
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Styrallyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Linalool
Syringa Aldehyde
Geranylacetoin
Cassia Oliffac
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Neroli Oil - Morocco
Boisnal
Linalyl Acetate
Nonadienal Di Methyl Acetal
Kir Base # 9741
Jasilyn
Neryl Acetate Primary
2-n-Hexyl Cyclopentanone
Bois Ambrene Forte
Irotyl V
Rose Bulgare Oil
Persicol
Cyclamen Aldehyde

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

79

Floral Green # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

6
12
4
28
19
.1
34
11
3
5
14
6
3
.2
7
3
135
11
2
8
1
35
4
3
323
1
4
5
12
.1
23
120
4
1
.1

Cou Marin
Benzyl Alcohol
Heliotropine
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galaxolide 50
Oakmoss Givco 204/2
Benzyl Salicylate
Galbanum Resinoid
Vanisal
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Ionone Alpha
Musk Gazalle
Cedrenyl Acetate
Cetonal V
Hexil Cinamico Aldeido
Kephalis
Muguet Base
Eugenol
Vanillin, ethyl
Citronellol
Methyl Jasmonate
Geraniol
Lyrame Super
Cedraclaire
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Methyl Benzoate
Di Methyl Octanol
Carnaline
Ionone Alpha Refined
Folione
Terpineol Prime
Benzyl Acetate
Acetate De Styralyle
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Rose Oil Turkey

Fragrance Ingredient

19
6
3
11
8
.1
17
1
11
2
7
3
.3
2
2
24
1
.1
7
11
4
2
1
3
5
1

Peach Aroma Base


Jasmonyl Acetate
Stemone
Linalol
Pech pure - Givaudan
Mirabelle 2000
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Petilyn
Verdox
Aldeido C - 14
Vert de Cassis Givco 180
Bois Ambrene Forte
Ylang Ylang Second
Appila Augaflor 7
Persicol SA
Linalyl Acetate
Nerol
Leaf Alcohol
Green Peach Base
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Neo Galbanum Oil N
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Boisnal
Gardenia Fleuriff
Florosia
Neryl Acetate

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

80

Floral Green # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

4
3
11
9
18
.1
53
3
1
34
.1
10
4
19
13
8
4
99
107
6
38
9
1
1
44
3
1
11
328
1
22
4
1

Galaxolide
Heliotropine
Alcool Benzilico
Coumane
Traseolide 700 Base
Atralone
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Heliomet
Velvet Rose
Benzyle Salicylate
Damascenone
Alpha Ionyl Acetate
Cyclogalbaniff
Ionone Alpha 60
Aldeido Hexil Cinamico
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Atlas Cedar
Super Cepionate
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Citronellol
Jasmin Province Base
Eugenol
Methyl Jasmonate
Lavanda Spliego
Geraniol
Hydroxycitronellal 97 %
Pepperwood
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Methyl Para Cresole
Peach Pure
Cassis Bourgeons
Oxanone

Fragrance Ingredient

1
3
.3
4
18
1
3
9
4
7
9
6
.1
12
10
.1
3
1
4
.1
8
25
1
.2

Vetiveryl Acetate Popular


Bourgenal
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Nerolidol
Lindenol
Undecatriene
Blue Rus Accord - IFF
Persicol SA
Nerol
Iso Raldeine
Aldeido C - 14
Muguet Augaflor 16
Rosessence 17.600B
Verdox
Linalool
Bois De Rose Essence
Kir Base # 9741
Honeysuckle
Scennal
Jonquil Abs.
Cassis Givco
Linalyl Acetate
Apritone
Rose Orient

1,000

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81

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN
Cassis .5 %

Top

Bergamot 4 %, Peach 7 %, Green Notes 1 %

Fruity Green

Apple 1 %
Jasmin 20 %

Middle

Lilac 1 %, Violet 3 %, Rose 3 %

Floral

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %


Muguet 13 %
Base

Musk 5 %
Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood .5 %, Civet - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

82

Floral Green # 3a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
10
.1
12
43
38
9
74
.1
93
114
6
1
9
1
8
4
7
6
1
4
.1
77
9
303
2
23
16
1
4
12
.1
7
52
1

Musk Emeressence
Alcool Benzilique
Civet Base # 5
Ferula Galbaniflua
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Ethylene Brassylate
Helional
Benzyl Salicylate
Helioforte
Benzyl Acetate
Muguet Base
Alicate
Serenolide
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cyclomugal
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Florosia
Lindenol
Citronellol 98 %
alpha - Irone
Sweet Grass
Rose Oxide l
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Rose Artificial Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Heliogan
Geraniol Extra pure
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Jasmone
Lyrame Super
Linalol Coeur 97 %
Galbanum Oil Artessence
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Aldehyde C - 14
Tuberose Oliffac

Fragrance Ingredient

4
8
4
.1
3
5
6
.1
1
5
3
4
1
9
2
.1
2
1
11
.1
1
25
1
3

Styrallyl Acetate
Apple Juice Givco 123
Kir Base # 9741
2, 6 Nonadien # 332
Verotyl
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Irone Alpha Refined
Neroli Blossom Water
Muguet Alcohol
Applitone OA
Stemone
Tangerine ( O )
Alpha Damascone
Green Peach Base
Petilyn
Geraniol Oil pure
Green Augflor Base
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Alcohol C - 90
Cyclal - C
Linalyl Acetate
Perryfix
Lavender Oils

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

83

Floral Green # 3b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
42
53
9
1
7
.1
24
1
19
73
5
4
78
9
73
4
1
5
9
.1
.1
15
.1
309
4
5
.1
6
7
14
17
5
7

Coumane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galaxolide Artessence
Benzylalcohol
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Sandalwood Oliffac
Damascenia 185 SA
Benzyl Salicylate
Fluffy Musk - Givaudan
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Cedrafix
Etilen Brasilate
Muguet Base
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Benzyle Acetate
Iso Amyl Geranate
Di Hydro Coumarex
Sweet Grasss
Citronellol 750
The
Musk Abs. CLess
Terpineol Prime
Rosone
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
Ionone Alpha Refined
Rose Oxide R
Myraldyl Acetate
Hydrofix L
Linalol
Methyl Ionone Alpha
Acetate De Styralyle
Green Base Augaflor 8

Fragrance Ingredient

9
.1
14
33
4
1
5
8
38
27
11
1
4
1
8
3
1
4
.3
4
3
2
1
.1

Bergamot Oil Substitute


2, 6 Nonadienal # 332
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Geraniol
Kir Base # 9741
Tonka Feve Resinoide
Cassis Fragrance
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Aldehyde C - 14
Linalyl Acetate
Verdox
Florosia
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Bergamot Italian - Citrus Bergamia
White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan
Nerol
Perryfix
Applinal
Bourgenal
Citronet
Di Ethyl Malonate
Top Galbanum 18.326
Meranol
Geraniol 600

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

84

Floral Green # 3c
Fragrance Ingredient

3
12
47
9
42
6
3
24
1
1
3
11
63
.1
118
11
4
3
1
1
1
28
6
3
.1
12
24
292
.1
3
86
5
.1
15
3

Heliomet
Benzyl Alcohol FR
Etilen Brasilato
Tonka Resinoid
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galbanolide
Sandalore
Benzyl Salicylate
Kephalis
Cyclal - C
Vanillina
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
MDJ
Rose Oxide L
Muguet Base
Cepionate
a - Irone
Gardenia Fleuriff
Reseda Body
Rose Crystals
Doremox
Ionone Alpha Refined
Citronellol
Lioral
Exaltolide
Lindenol
Geraniol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
cis - 2 - Hexen - 1 - OL
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Hedione
Cyclamen Aldheyde
Aldehyde C - 8
Linalol synthetique
Kir Base # 9741

Fragrance Ingredient

32
4
17
4
11
1
.1
1
4
29
1
.2
3
3
2
.1
28
4
5
3
4
1
.2
1

Peach Aroma Base


Verbena Oil France
Gardenia Base
Orange West Indian
Verdox
Bergamot Calabrian Essence
Black Currant Bud ( Cassis ) Abs.
Vanillyl Alcohol
Di Ethyl Malonate
Peach Aldehyde
Bois Ambrene Forte
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Ferula Galbani Flua
Jasmonyl Acetate
Stemone
Folione
Linalyl Acetate
Styrallyl Acetate
Viridine
Pearlate
Muuet Alcohol
Rose Orient
Cyclomyral
Melfloral

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

85

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN
Top

Bergamot 11 % - Fruity
Green Notes .5 %, Tangerine 1.5 %, Berryflor .5 %

Fruity Green

Melon 1.5 %, Lavender .5 %


Middle

Rose - 13 % Warm

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %

Kephallis 2 %, Muguet 8 %, Jasmin 7 %

Floral

Violet 10 %, Lilac 3 %
Base

Musk 3 %
Galbanum 1 %, Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 1 %
Amber - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

86

Floral Green # 4a
Fragrance Ingredient

11
9
4
13
35
9
1
28
6
11
10
53
19
5
33
54
6
22
29
1
15
13
8
1
301
3
48
7
3
52
15
.1
1
4
6

Galbanum Resinoid
Santalex T Neat
Amyris Oil W.I.
Iso E Super
Di Ethyl Phthlate (DEP)
Coumane
Amber Substitute
Ethylene Brassylate
Osyrol
Hydroxycitronellal E
Laurinal
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Kephalis
Sweet Grass
Super Cepionate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Benzoate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Lilac Base
Benzophenone
Jasmin Province Base
Lilial
Citronellol Pure
Santalol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Peomosa
Geraniol 60
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Oncidal
Muguet Base
Melon Oliffac
Alcohol C - 9
Orange Carbonyls
Acetate De Styrallyle
Hexyle Salicylate

Fragrance Ingredient

.2
1
1
3
1
5
.3
1
2
1
4
8
2
1
5
3
12
9
.1
4
10
.1
14
1

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
Jonquil Absoflor
Styrallyl Acetate
Green Base Augaflor 5
Aldehyde C - 14
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Verdantiol
Ciclamen Aldeido
Cassis Bourgeons
Stemone
Lilie
Cyclal - C
Sweet Pea
Gardenia Ether
Berryflor
Amyl Salicylate
Geranyl Acetate For Soap
Rose Glycol
Methyl Amyl Ketone
Ionone Alpha Refined
Leaf Alcohol
Tangerine Oil - Florida
Cassis Fragrance

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

87

Floral Green # 4b
Fragrance Ingredient

12
10
14
11
12
1
.1
34
32
.1
9
17
5
22
14
5
1
7
76
.1
.1
28
43
69
318
98
.1
1
6
3
78
1
5
1
6
1

Galbanum Resinoid
Sandalwood Extender
Muskylein
Salicylate DBenzyle
Helional
Amber Base
Civet Tincture
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Hidroxicitronelal
Cedrol Crystals
Benzyl Benzoate
Musk Z 4 - IFF
Melfloral
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Citronellol 96 FCC
Kephalis
Rhodinol Ex Geranium Oil
Iso - Eugenol
Geraniol 60
Musk Abs. CLess
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Lilac Base
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Ionone Intermediate Base
Tuberose Oliffac
Rose Crystals
Lyral
Berryflor
Muguet Base
Anapear - Givaudan
Hexyl Salicylate
Vandor B
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Vernol

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
1
6
3
14
.3
2
.3
.3
1
3
.1
2
15
1
1
.1
3
.1
2
1
.1
3
.1
1

Neroli Egypt Essence


cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Palmarosa Indian
Tangerinol
Poirenate
Ciclal - C
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Sweet Pea
Molton Woods - Firmenich
Styrallyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Neroli Tunisian
Melon Oliffac
Petilyn
Lavender 48/50 %
Alcool C - 9
Muguet Alcohol
Rose - Egypt
Berryflor
Iso Jasmone
Leaf Alcohol Pure 98 %
Myraldyl Acetate
Tuberose Augaflor 25
Aquamor

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

88

Floral Green # 4c
Fragrance Ingredient

3
28
9
11
12
4
35
9
6
4
9
.1
66
22
6
11
18
29
63
1
9
6
73
48
14
3
300
12
3
1
.1
.1
6
1
3

Ambre 140 BSA


Traseolide 700 Base
Rhodiascent
Benzyl Salicylate
Galbanum Select - Ferol Galbanifera
Cedryl Acetate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Oil Indonesia
Muskylein
Vanilys
Hydroxycitronellol
Cinnamon Bark Ceylon
Benzyle Acetate
Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido
Berryflor
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Kephalis
Lindenol
Muguet Base
Bergamot African
Citronellol Coeur FCC
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Ionone Intermediate Base
Geraniol
Lyral
Ionone - alpha
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Sandalwood Oliffac
Cyclal - C
Alcohol C - 9
Galbanum Resinoid Artessence
Hexyl Salicylate
Lily Aldehyde
Allyl Phenoxy Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

1
.2
6
2
4
.3
5
4
3
6
9
.1
6
17
34
1
.1
3
5
9
52
5
2

Cis 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate


Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Phenylethylacetate
Acetate De Styralyle
Galbex 183
Aldehyde C - 12 lauric
Iso Raldeine 70
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Sweet Grass
Tangerinol
Gardenia Fleuriff
Violiff
Green Key KF1
Melonyl 85471 VMF
Linalool
Undecatriene
Leaf Alcohol
Ionone
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Mandarin Oil, Red
Linalyl Acetate
Neryl Acetate
Cyclamen Aldehyde

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL GREEN
Orange 6 %

Top

Bergamot 4 % - Fruity, Lemon 2 %, Grapefruit 1 %

Fruity Green

Green Notes .5 %, Apple - Trace, Petitgrain 1 %, Basil 1 %


Muguet 5 %

Middle
Amyl Salicylate 5 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 %

Rose 17 %, Hyacinth 1 %, Violet 1 %

Floral

Jasmin 4 %
Base

Musk 5 %
Tonka 2 %, Galbanum .5 %, Pine 1 %
Moss - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Mossy Animalic

Glen O. Brechbill

90

Floral Green # 5a
Fragrance Ingredient

6
13
9
29
18
3
34
43
5
1
49
38
23
4
6
17
8
4
5
38
3
6
5
13
113
5
274
7
9
8
25
8
.1
24

Galbanum Oil A
Traseolide
Vanillin
Benzyl Salicylate
Helional
Iso Bornyl Crystals
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Amyl Salicylate
Kephalis
Alpha Damascone
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Benzyl Acetate
Etilen Brasilate
Calyxol
Hyacinth PP
Gardenia Base
Alpha Ionone
Top Galbanum 18.326
Hyacinth
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Florosia
Citronellol 750
Gardenia Fleuriff
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Geraniol Pure
Hysimal
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Cedar Atlantic Oil
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Lyral
Linalyl Acetate
Blood Orange Oil
Aldehyde C - 8
Lemon Oil of California

Fragrance Ingredient

3
2
1
6
.1
.1
18
1
3
5
53
.1
2
4
.1
4
.3
1
1
2
3
7
11
2
6
9

Vern Aldehyde
Triplal
Rhodiaflor
Styrallyl Acetate
Nonadienal
Alcohol C - 9
Linalool Coeur
Geranyl Acetate
Irone V
Green Base Augaflor 10
Orange Oil Midseason
Aldehyde Iso C - 11
Neryl Acetate
Myrac Aldehyde
Friasse Distille
Verdyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Tuberose Oliffac
Cyclal - C
Orange Aldehyde
Verdox
Verdyl Propionate
Grapefruit Oil, White, Brazil
Methyl Pamplemousse
Balsam, Fir Canada
Petitgrain Oil Paraguay

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

91

Floral Green # 5b
Fragrance Ingredient

6
33
.1
28
1
32
.1
3
1
19
.1
62
38
.1
13
18
21
37
6
101
3
14
2
7
282
6
.1
23
8
.1
3
58
2

Galbanum Resinoide
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Evernyl
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Rose Crystals
Benzyle Salicylate
Alpha Damascone
Styrax Resinoid
Helioforte
Ethylene Brassylate
Nonadienal
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Acetate De Benzyl
Rosalva
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Ionone Alpha Refined
Citronellol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Sweet Grass
Geraniol 60
Nepalva
Jasmin Artificial Base
Hyacinth PP
Lilial
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
MDJ
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Argumen Substitute
Aldehyde C - 24 Poire
Top Muguet 18.326
Orange Oil Brazilian C.P.
Styrallylacetate

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
6
1
3
1
50
9
4
.1
11
1
1
8
4
25
4
1
3
1
28
4
3
3
1

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Triplal
Vern Aldehyde
Tangerinol
Cassis
Amyl Salicylate
Petitgrain Paraguay
Myrac Aldehyde
Aldehyde C - 10
Linalool
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
Methyl Chamomile
Lyral
Bergamot Oil - FCF
Lemon Oil Washed
Appila Augaflor 5
Orange Aldehyde
Silvial
Jasilyn
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Nerol
Meijiff
Osyrol
Vanillin Acetate

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

92

Floral Green # 5c
Fragrance Ingredient

48
.1
.1
35
9
32
19
1
4
3
9
12
73
1
14
7
3
12
37
14
8
113
5
3
12
295
16
.1
3
1
43
.1
3
3
.1

Ethylene Brassylate
Civet Tincture
Evernyl
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galbanum Resinoid
Benzyl Salicylate
Cou Marin
Benzophenone
Di Metil Benzil Carbinol
Symmusk
Hyacinth PP
Cetone V
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Anisyl Alcohol
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Sweet Grass
Lavender Oil Standard
Citronellol 850
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Lyral
Pine Oils Natural 70 %
Geraniol Pure
Top Galbanum 18.326
Iso, Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Tuberose Substitute
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Hydrofix R
Vert De Bois 480M
Benzyl Acetate
Alcohol C - 8
Vern Aldehyde
Di Hydro Nootkatone
Aldeido C - 10

Fragrance Ingredient

24
1
2
6
4
9
.3
8
5
63
1
3
2
.1
3
6
.1
1
6
7
4
1
3
2

Lemon Oil California


Styrallyl Acetate
Jasmin Egyptian
Triplal
Green Base Augaflor 10
Petitgrian Oil Mandariner
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Verdyl Propionate
Myrac Aldehyde
Orange Oil of Florida
Aldeido Ciclamen
Rhodiaflor SoA
Verdox
Leaf Salicylate
Pearalate
Lyral
Orange Aldehyde
Boisnal
Vredyl Acetate
Grapefruit Oil Pink C.P.
Neryl Acetate
Felandrene
Iridales
Sandalwood Oliffac

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

93

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fruit Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate C - 6
Alcohol C - 6
Aldehyde C - 7
Aldehyde C - 10
Aldehyde C - 14
Aldehyde C - 16
Aldehyde C - 18
Aldehyde C - 19
Aldehyde C - 20
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Acetate PA
Allyl Amyl Glycoate
Allyl Caproate

Sweet fruity berry pear like.


Chemical winey, slightly fatty fruity odor.
Powerful oily fermenting fruity.
Powerful sweet waxy orange peel like odor.
Powerful peach odor.
Sweet fruity candy like strawberry.
Coconut, in extreme dilution - fruity.
Pineapple.
Raspberry.
Sweet balsamic spicy fruity odor of clove's.
Sharp mixed fruity pineapple like odor, heavy and sweet.
Strong fruity pineapple.
Fatty fruity, reminiscent of pineapple.
Allyl Cyclo Hexyl Propionate Powerful and sweet fruity odor resembles pineapple.
Allyl Heptoate
Sweet, fruity pungent resembles banana.
Alpha Damascone
Intense fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.
Amyl Acetate
Powerful fruity banana like odor.
Amyl Butyrate
Fruity odor of apricot banana pineapple.
Amyl Iso Valerate
Fruity ethereal heavy apple like odor.
Amyl Phenyl Acetate
Fruity balsamic sweet odor.
Amyl Propionate
Sweet fruity apricot pineapple like odor.
Apple Oliffac
Fresh green apple.
Aurantiol
Sweet heavy floral orange blossom lily.
Benzyl Acetate
Benzyl Butyrate
Benzyl Formate
Benzyl Iso Amyl Ether
Benzyl Propionate
Bergamot Oil FCC
Bergamyl Acetate
Beta Damascone
Beta Ionone

Powerful thin sweet fresh, fruity floral odor of jasmin gardenia.


Heavy fruity floral plum like.
Powerful fruity green herbaceous.
Floral fruity odor somewhat greener and herb than B.A.
Fruity sweet, rosy floral.
Fresh, fruity citrus odor.
A sweet bergamot orange fragrance.
Fruity.
Warm woody dry odor, fruity undertone.

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94

Glen O. Brechbill

Boisnal
Butyl Butyrate

A very weak and sweet fruity floral odor.


Powerful fresh sweet fruity reminiscent of banana pineapple.

Calone 1951
Casis Base 345B
Cinnamyl Acetate
Cinnamyl Iso Butyrate
CIS Jasmone
Citrathal
Citroflex # 2
Citronal
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellyl N Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Propionate

Has a faint fruity melon odor.


A green fruity floral character.
Sweet mild balsamic, slightly floral fruity odor.
Fresh fruity, mild balsamic, sweet odor, Rem of ripe banana.
Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.
Fruity fresh like odor.
Mild sweet winey, fruity plum like.
Fruity.
Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor.
Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal.
Powerful leafy green fruity rosy fresh & light Rem of geranium.
Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.

Damascenia 185 SA
Delta Dodelactone
Di Ethyl Malonate
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
D M B C - Acetate
D M B C - Butyrate
D M B C - Propionate
Di Methyl Malonate

Floral fruity rose odor at same time very sweet.


Fresh fruity oily odor of good tenacity.
Sweet pleasant fruity green odor reminiscent of apples.
More fruity less floral.
Powerful fresh floral fruity slight herbaceous jasmin lily.
Mild herbaceous fruity plum prune like.
Sweet floral fruity odor of freesia, sweet pea, peony, magnolia.
Apple ethereal fruity.

Ethyl Acetate
Ethyl Aceto Acetate
Ethyl Anthranilate
Ethyl Benzoate
Ethyl Butyrate
Ethyl Caproate
Ethyl Caprylate
Ethyl Cinnimate
Ethyl Heptoate
Ethyl Iso Valerate
Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
Ethyl Pelargonate
Ethyl Valerate

Pleasant ethereal fruity brandy like.


Ethereal fruity sweet rum like.
Sweet fruity grape like milder than methyl ester.
Warm floral fruity.
Powerful ethereal fruity odor of banana, pineapple.
Strong fruity winey odor of apple blossom, pineapple.
Fruity winey, and sweet odor Rem of apricot and pineapple.
Sweet balsamic, fruity honey like odor.
Powerful fruity wine like brandy berry.
Powerful and penetrating apple ethereal vinous fruity.
Powerful diffusive apple, green fruity pungent of apple skins.
Slight fatty oily fruity nut like.
Fruity apple like.

Gamma Decalactone
Geranyl Acetate
Geranyl N Butyrate

Peach like.
Sweet fruity floral rosy.
Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy like.

Helioforte

Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.


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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Heliomet
Heliotropine
Heliotropyl Acetate
Herbaflorat
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Hexyl Acetate
Hexyl N Butyrate

Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.


Very sweet floral, warm lightly spicy, dilution - cherry pie.
Very sweet light floral, cherry fruity undertones.
Green sweet fruity.
Oily sweet fruity green apple, and galbanum type odor.
Sweet fruity berry like, pear like milder then amyl acetate.
Powerful fruity heavy odor a melange of unripen fruits.

Ionone Beta Pure


Iso Amyl N Butyrate
Iso Amyl Propionate
Iso Butyl Caproate
Iso Damascone
Iso Nonyl Acetate

More fruity, and woody like than alpha.


Powerful diffusive fruity sweet apricot pineapple like odor.
Sweet fruity apricot pineapple.
Mild herbaceous woody, but over all fruity oily odor.
A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex.
Woody fruity soft refreshing odor.

Jasmin # 187
Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn.

A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.


A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.

Ketopommal

Fruity sweet.

Laveo Menthyl Acetate


Linalyl Acetate
Linalyl Butyrate
Linalyl Iso Butyrate
Linalyl Propionate

Mild and sweet slightly fruity herbaceous minty odor.


Sweet floral fruity recalling bergamot pear.
Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like.
More floral less fruity.
Fruity floral.

Manzanate
Melon Oliffac
Methyl Anthranilate
Methyl Cinnimate
Methyl Heptenone Extra
Methyl Heptoate
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Methyl Salicylate
Mirabelle 2000

A slightly spicy heavy ethereal fruity apple odor.


Fresh clean melon odor.
Mostly fruity and dry floral odor reminiscent of concord grapes.
Powerful fruity balsamic like, dilution - strawberry less balsamic.
Fruity green slightly waxy.
Fruity green slight waxy berry like.
Fruity rosy orange like.
Warm sweet rosy fruity.
A fruity floral creation.

Nerolin Bromelia Crystals


Neryl Acetate
Nopyl Acetate

Delicate and sweet very tenacious floral fruity odor.


Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.
Sweet woody fruity odor.

Octyl Formate
Oxanone

Powerful, and relatively diffusive fruity green orris.


Very sweet fruity warm raspberry odor.

Peach Oliffac

Peach.
Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

96

Persicol
Perryfix
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Prenyl Acetate

Peach.
Fruity sweet odor of pears, very nice and diffusive.
Fruity sweet, rosy floral.
Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Fresh fruity tea rose like.
Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Fresh diffusive, fruity banana, bergamot like.

Raspberry Ketone

Very sweet fruity warm odor of raspberry preserves.

Strawberry Oliffac

Fresh sweet fruity odor of strawberries.

Trans 2 Hexenyl Acetate

Powerful and fresh green sweet fruity very natural odor.


Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate Fruity floral.
Vanoris
Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type.
Veltol
Warm fruity caramellic sweet odor.
Veltol Plus
Intensely sweet fruity bread like pleasant odor.
Velutone
Faint, but sweet floral fruity odor.

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97

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Floral Fruity

FLORAL FRUITY
A fragrance of a floral fruity type can be achieved by blending fruity elements of a single fruit or a combination of two or more of which one can dominate. Apple accords that include, peach, apricot, pineapple, cassis, prune, strawberry, and raspberry. Mixed with fine floral ingredients that include jasmine, violet, hyacinth
and others provide a rich show case of what can be achieved within this family. Becoming more popular each
day is the utilization of Papaya, and Passion Fruit. These perfumes are known to have a clean fruit quality and
a soft warmth.
Top

Bergamot 9 % - Fruity
Rose - Trace, Strawberry - Trace, Green Notes .5 %

Floral Fruity

Lavender 3 %, Orange 1 %, Ylang 1.5 %, Wintergreen - Trace


Middle

Muguet 3 %
Hawthorn 2 %, Rose 6 %, Jasmin 4 %

Floral

Violet 5 %, Carnation 2 %, Lilac 3 %, Ylang 2 %, Geranium - Trace


Base

Musk 2 %
Vanilla 1 %, Tonka 3 %, Balsams 1 %,
Civet - Trace, Sandal 1 %, Labdanum 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm Balsam

Glen O. Brechbill

98

Floral Fruity # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

18
2
23
9
.1
11
12
6
7
1
42
5
1
24
8
4
7
35
59
7
1
3
125
9
1
294
5
3
6
8
.1
45
3
.1
44
11
1

Galaxolide
Coumarin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyl Salicylate
Civet Powder # 1A
Benzyl Benzoate
Amyl Salicylate
Musk Emeressence
Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG
Amberonne
Benzyl Acetate
Cedraclaire
Anisyl Alcohol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Benzophenone
Meijiff
Hidroxicitronelal
Geraniol
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Vanilla Tincture 20 %
Sandela
Lilac Base
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Javanol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Hyacinth
Citronellol
Peach Oliffac
Lilial
Thyme Oil Red
Ionone Intermediate Base
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Elderflower Extract
Linalool Synthetic FCC
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Cassia Oliffac

Fragrance Ingredient

3
2
1
3
22
.1
.1
1
.2
2
.1
11
.1
28
1
16
52
1
.1
.1
3
4
2
1
1
5

Geranyl Acetate
Anapear - Givaudan
Undecatriene
Lolitol
Aubepine
Alcohol C - 10
Rose Centifolia
Methyl Diantilis
Aldehdye C - 12 Fram.
Strawberry Pure
Mirabelle 2000D
Orange Oil Sweet
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Lavender Oil, Moldovian
Geranyl & Neryl
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Linalyl Acetate
Santalol
Leaf Acetal
Rose De Mai
Bergamot Oil, Brazilian
Scennal
Ionone - alpha
cis - Jasmone
Bourgenal
Methyl Iso Eugenol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

99

Floral Fruity # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

4
22
7
11
.1
28
24
6
9
4
18
1
.1
33
4
8
1
3
25
127
29
8
48
.1
5
297
14
48
9
1
13
23
.1
3
.1

Acetyl Iso Eugenol


Ethylene Brassylate
Bacdanol
Benzyl Salicylate
Civet Artificial I.A.
Coumarin Substitute
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanisal
Benzyl Benzoate
Cashmeran
Sandalwood Mysore Core
Cinnamique Aldehyde
Rose Oxide R
Hydroxycitronellol
Ethyl Vanillin
Labdanum Resinoid
Caryophylline
Eugenol
Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde )
Lilac Base
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Citronellol
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Alcohol C - 8
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Ionone For Soap
Geraniol
Lyral
Bois De Gains
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic
Styrallylacetate
Amyl Salicylate

Fragrance Ingredient

1
6
.1
.1
14
8
1
14
37
1
.1
1
17
9
1
.1
1
.1
.1
1
1
2
1
1
53

C - 16 ( Strawberry )
Lavender 50/52 %
Violiff
Aldehyde C - 10
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Geranyl Acetate
Thyme Captatus Oil
Orange Bigarade California
Linalol Pure FCC
Anapear - Givaudan
Vanilla Abs. - Madagascar
Nutmeg
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Terpineol P.G.
Indian Sandal Core
Niaouli Essence
Rose Acetate
Methyl Salicylate
Leaf Alcohol
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Ylang Oil # 1
Kephalis
Geraniol 600
Peach Oliffac
Linalyl Acetate

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

100

Floral Fruity
Fragrance Ingredient

4
3
9
.1
6
11
28
47
29
11
8
23
14
1
29
1
4
11
10
6
7
8
33
135
19
7
4
289
9
10
42
1
.1
.1
1
4

Benzophenone
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Benzoin Siam
Civet Base # 1
Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
Vanilla Tincture 20 %
Di Hydro Coumarex
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyl Salicylate
Sanjinol
Benzyl Benzoate
MDJ
Anisic Aldehyde PQ
Thymol Crustals
Eugenol
Anisylalcohol
Labdanum Resinoid
Rose For Soap Base
Aldeido Cinamico
Lavender Chinese
Di Hydro Eugenol
Citronellol
Geraniol
Lilac Base
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Sandalore
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Ethylene Brassylate
Lyral
Meranol
Folione
Citronellyl Acetate
Thyme Oil Redistilled
Apium Graveolens Linne

Fragrance Ingredient

9
3
41
14
1
.1
4
2
1
.1
63
1
10
17
.1
1
1
3
1
.4
1
1
.1
1

Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol


Pelargene
Linalol
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Neryl Acetate Pure
Methyl Salicylate
Jasmonyl
Rhodiaflor SoA
Amyl Salicylate
Methyl Tuberate
Linalyl Acetate
Styrallylacetate
Orange Oil Midseason
Jasphene
Aldehyde C - 10
Mandarin Oil Essence
Vartol
Nerol
Methyl Ionone
Geranylacetoin
Hydroxyciol
Strawberry Aldehyde
Reseda Body
Jamaica Oil

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

101

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY
Top

Bergamot 9 %

Wintergreen - Trace
Spice Notes

Strawberry - .5 %, Green Notes

Floral Fruity

Lavender 3 %, Orange 1 %, Ylang Ylang 1.5 %, Wintergreen - Trace


Middle

Muguet 4 %
Carnation 2 %, Hawthorn 2 %, Rose 6 %, Jasmin 4 %, Violet 5 %

Amyl Salicylate 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Base

Floral

Lilac 11 %, Ylang Ylang 4 %, Reseda


Musk 3 %
Vanilla 1 %, Tonka 2 %, Balsamic 1 %
Sandalwood 1 %, Labdanum 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Balsamic

Glen O. Brechbill

102

Floral Fruity # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

26
9
.1
3
42
4
2
23
9
5
6
1
8
14
3
11
6
28
23
10
7
31
1
5
19
8
276
65
3
3
19
1
1
.1

Osyrol
Alcool Benzila
Veltol
Amber Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate
Raspberry Ketone
Mousse De Metre
Benzylsalicylate
Muskylein
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Benzyl Butyrate
Atalone
Iridales
Ethyl Aceto Acetate
Cetonal
Iso Eugneol Replacement
y - Irone
Jasphene
Hidroxicitronelal
Citronellol
Laurine Extra
Rose For Soap Base
Rosone
Eugenol, Iso
Hydroxycitronellal 97 %
Methyl Ionone
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol Prime
Kir Base # 9741
Rosa Centifolia
Linalool
Tuberose Augaflor 25
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Leaf Alcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

10
6
3
163
1
1
45
.1
17
.1
.1
13
1
3
1
2
.1
27
19
4
1
3
1
4
2
.5

Peach Pure - Givaudan


Benzaldehyde
Styrallyl Acetate
Citroflex # 2
Hexyl Salicylate
Pepperwood
Verdox
Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute
Peach Aroma Base
Styrax Mix - Oil
Alcool C - 9
Fructone
Ciclamen Aldeido
Top Muguet 18.326
Cassia Oil B & F
Sparkling Champagne - IFF
Nerol Artessence
Linalyl Acetate
Strawberry pure
Stemone
Rose Oil Maroc
Calendula Officinalis
Anisyl Acetate
Kohinool
Neryl Acetate
Orange Peels

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

103

Floral Fruity # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

3
12
.1
37
3
23
6
42
.1
5
109
10
3
9
1
5
8
13
.1
72
1
16
123
26
303
9
1
3
5
1
1
3
1
2

Rosone
Tonkarinol
Civet Powder # 1B
Musk 50 DPG
Cedrenyl Acetate
Benzyl Salicylate
Chandanone
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanilla Absolute
Alcool Cinamico
Benzyl Acetate
Cashmeran
Benzoin Siam No. 2
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Damascenia
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Tonka Resinoid
Citronellol
Rosalva
Hedione
Rose Templar
Lilac Base
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Geraniol 60
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB2040
Cyclal - C
Lavender 40/42
Gardenia Fleuriff
Beta Damascone
Tuberose Oliffac
Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
Styrallyl Acetate
Lilestralis

Fragrance Ingredient

.2
1
58
3
9
.3
14
3
.1
.1
6
6
.1
.1
4
1
5
3
8
1
11
1
4
1
3
1

Alcohol C - 10
Veryflor
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Acetyl Eugenol
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
Verdox
Jasmonyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 11
Fleurs d Oranger Abs. Artess
Green Peach Base
Nerol
Undecatriene
Nonadienal
Vert de Cassis Givco 180
Methyl Pamplemousse
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Iris Beurre Oil
Bergamot C.P. Italy
cis - 3 - Hexnyl Salicylate
Persicol SA
Tansy Oil Canada
Geranyl Acetate
Orange Essence Oil, Brazil
Lyral
Mimosa Artessence

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

104

Floral Fruity # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

1
35
10
8
23
.1
.1
19
1
6
4
6
9
15
1
17
9
8
16
3
14
66
17
7
8
29
6
335
10
26
9
13
2
26
15

Amberlyn
Cou Marin
Patchouli Oil MD
Vanilline
Benzyl Benzoate
Mousse Essence Abs.
Civet Tincture
Sandalwood Substitute
Earth
Cinnamique Alcool
Glabanum Resinoid
Helional
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Geraniol 600
Vertofix Coeur
alpha - Ionone
Laurine
Hexil Cinnamic Aldeido
Di Methyl Octanol
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Geraniol Pur
Citronellol
Syringa
Oxanone
Tuberose Substitute
Vanillin, ethyl
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Sandec Givco
Benzyl Salicylate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Grape Base
Dianthanol
Methyl Anthranilate
Linalol S 97

Fragrance Ingredient

57
19
3
39
10
1
1
.3
9
3
10
.1
1
34
2
5
11
4
1
9
6
1
.4

Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Nectaryl
Styrallyl Alcohol
Aurantiol pure
Mandarin Oil Red
Pepper Oil Black
Geranyle Acetate
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Peach Aldehyde
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Folione
Damascenia
Linalyl Acetate
Iso, Eugenol
Bois Ambrene Forte
Vetiver Acetate
Tilanol Super
Florantone T
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Verdyl Propionate
C - 14
Galbanolide

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

105

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY
Grape 6 %

Top

Rose, Peach, Bergamot 6 %, Violet Note

Floral Fruity

Pineapple 1 %, Raspberry 1 %, Mandarin 1 %, Green Notes 1.5 %


Rose 6 %

Middle

Lilac 3 %, Jasmin 5 %, Violet 1 %


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 %
Vertofix 1.5 %
Lily 6 %, Carnation 5 %, Tuberose 3 %
DMPEC 1 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 %
Patchouli 1 %
Base
Tonka 3 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Vanilla - Trace, Vetiver 1 %
Amber 1 %, Earth, Galbanum .5 %, Civet - Trace, Moss - Trace
Cutters
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1.5 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1.5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 35 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Floral

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

106

Floral Fruity # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

4
35
.1
11
29
15
29
15
9
15
11
4
12
3
54
9
1
34
12
9
12
11
10
15
4
3
8
12
318
5
33
9
48

Amber Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Tincture
Sandalwood Substitute
Cumarine
Benzyl Benzoate
Cumarine
Benzyl Benzaote
Patchouli Oil - Indonesia
Benzyl Salicylate
Galbanum Resinoide
Vanillin
Gardenia Base
Iso Bornyl Crystals
Benzyl Acetate
Cinnamique Alcool
Earth
Hydroxycitronellol
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cyclosia Base
Jasmin Artificial Base
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Vertofix Coeur
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Vanillinethyl
Florex
Ionone Alpha
Laurine
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Citronellol
Lilac Base
MDJ
Iso Eugenol Replacement

Fragrance Ingredient

14
8
11
9
6
7
3
1
64
23
1
4
.1
11
8
35
17
5
1
3
.1
4
1
3
.4
5
.1
1

Tuberose Substitute
Geranyl Acetate
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Mandarin Italy
Styrallylacetate
Aldeido C - 14
Ethyl Geranate
Iso Jasmonate
Geraniol
Linalol
Cassia Egypt
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Rose Oxide
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Linalyl Acetate
Aurantiol Pure
Jasmonyl Acetate
Raspberry Ketone
Coriander Leaf
Undecavertol
Muguet Aldehyde
Tuberose Oliffac
Lysmeral
Bonorax
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Hydroxycitronellaldimethylacetal
Apium Graveolens

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

107

Floral Fruity # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

14
3
9
11
3
1
19
51
12
.1
17
.1
10
1
19
17
3
44
11
1
45
18
9
1
33
42
330
.1
8
1
4
27
3
.1

Benzyl Benzoate
Amberwood F
Patchouly Oil
Sandalwood Extendre
Vanisal
Anisque Alcool
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyle Acetate
Cinnamique Alcool
Iso Butyl Quinoline
Benzylsalicylate
Civet Natural
Gardenia Base
Mousse De Chenne
Vertofix Coeur
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Laurine - Givaudan
Eugenol
Jasmin Province Base
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Lilie
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Citronellol
Benzoin Siam # 1
Terpineol Prime
Geraniol
Propileno Glico
Vanilla Resinoid
Ionone Alpha Refined
Damascenone
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Aurantiol pure
Citronica
Violiff

Fragrance Ingredient

10
11
14
3
32
9
6
28
13
2
28
1
13
.3
1
3
1
1
5
2
35
3
1
.1

Ylang Ylang Substitute


Mandarin Oil - Washed
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Bois Ambrene Forte
Methyl Anthranilate
Persicol SA
Syringa Aldehyde
Tuberose Substitute
Cyclosia Base - Firmenich
Acetate De Styrallyle
Linalol
Tagette Oil
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Top Muguet 18.326
Clove Leaf Madagascar
Oxanone
Cyclorose
Hysimal
Gardenia Fleuriff
Jasilyn
Linalyl Acetate
Bois Ambrene Forte
Canfora
Leaf Alcohol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

108

Floral Fruity # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

1
14
.1
33
4
22
7
10
2
9
28
.1
9
13
10
7
13
28
46
35
17
.1
10
9
13
11
300
26
9
13
35
3
2
12

Amborate
Benzoato Benzila
Civette French
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanillin
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
Galbanum Resinoid
Sandalwood Extender
Ethyl Vanillin
Cinnamic Alcohol
Helional
Earth
Jasmin Artificial Base
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Laurine Extra
Citronellol
Cyclosia Base
Tuberose Substitute
Eugenol
Geraniol Pure
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Mousse De Metre
Patchouly Light Indonesia Oil
Gardenia Base
Ionone Alpha 60
Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Terpineol Prime
Methyl Ionone
Para Cresyl redistilled
Aurantiol
Top Galbanum 18.326
Dianthanol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic

Fragrance Ingredient

53
1
2
27
.1
10
12
24
6
9
1
5
.3
.1
37
3
22
9
6
7
11
.1
.2
3

Benzyle Acetate
Styrallyl Propionate
Aldehyde C - 20
Methyl Anthranilate
Geranium Egyptian Type
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Linalol
Raspberry Ketone
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Styrallylacetate
Geranyl Acetate
Cassia Oil 80/85 %
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Linalyl Acetate S 96
Bois Amberene Forte
Hedione
Peach Blossom FM - 1042
Florhydral
Lysral
Mandarin Oil Italian Select
Roseessence 193 D
Leaf Alcohol
Nerol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

109

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY
Apple 5 %

Top
Hexyl Salicylate 5 %
Florhydral .5 %
Iso Eugenol Tech .5 %
Rosyrane Super .5 %
Delta Damascone .1 %

Green .5 %, Bergamot 5 %, Orange Blossom 1 %

Fruity

Pear .5 %
Rose 10 % - Sweet
Jasmin 6 %, Muguet 4 %, Violet 1 %

Middle
Peonile 3 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4.5 %

Floral

Aubepine .5 %, Carnation .5 %
Galbanum .5 %

Base
Musk 5 %, Iso E Super 2.5 %, Tonka 1 %
Vanilla 1 %, Sandalwood 1.5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Animalic, Amber

Glen O. Brechbill

110

Floral Fruity # 3a
Fragrance Ingredient

11
1
38
9
7
42
4
23
8
1
27
62
5
41
4
6
1
3
.1
1
8
21
5
9
17
6
318
83
1
11
13
9
3
5

Benzyl Alcohol
Benzophenone
Traseolide 700 Base
Vanillin
Iso & Super
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Caraway Oil - Ukraine
Benzyl Salicylate
Javanol
Anisyl Alcohol
Peonile
Acetate De Benzila
Lilial
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Florhydral
Vanillinethyl
Peomosa
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Sandalore
Citronellol
Lyral
Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Jasmin Artificial Base
Iso Eugenol Tech - Givaudan
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Sparkling Champagne - IFF
Anis Aldehyde PQ
DMBC - Acetate
Rose Substitute
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Spirogalbanone

Fragrance Ingredient

12
37
.3
14
18
22
.1
.1
3
9
10
.1
27
4
8
1
3
.2
1
4
8
3
5
.1
7

Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme


Verdox
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Geranyl Acetate
Linalool
Hexyle Salicylate
Orange Flower Abs.
Rose Oxide R
Lily Aldehyde
Neroline
Apple Oliffac
Alcool C - 8
Linalyl Acetate
Rosyrane Super
Peach Pure
Delta Damascone
Neroli Artessence
Massada
Apritone
Cetonal V
Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled
Stemone
Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
Ionone
Tangerine Oil Florida

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

111

Floral Fruity # 3b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
1
38
9
7
42
4
23
8
1
27
62
5
41
4
6
1
3
.1
1
8
21
5
9
17
6
318
83
1
11
13
9
3
5
12

Benzyl Alcohol FR
Benzophenone
Traseolide 700 Base
Vanillin
Iso E Super
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Caraway Oil - Ukraine
Benzyl Salicylate
Sandela
Vanilla Tincture 80 %
Peonile
Acetate De Benzila
Lilial
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Florhydral
Vanillin Ethyl
Peomosa
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Sandalore
Citronellol
Liral
Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Jasmin Artificial Base
Iso Eugenol Tech - Givaudan
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Ghost Lisly
Aubepine
DMBC - Acetate
Rose Substitute
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Spirogalbanone
Methyl Ionone Gamma

Fragrance Ingredient

37
.3
14
18
22
.1
.1
3
9
10
.1
27
4
8
1
3
.2
1
4
8
3
5
.1
7

Verdox
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Geranyl Acetate
Linalool
Hexyl Salicylate
Orange Flower Abs.
Rose Oxide R
Lily Aldehyde
Neroline
Apple Oliffac
Alcool C - 8
Linalyl Acetate
Rosyrane Super
Aldehyde C - 14
Delta Damascone
Neroli Oliffac
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Apritone
Cetonal V
Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled
Stemone
Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
Ionone
Tangerine Oil California

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

112

Floral Fruity # 3c
Fragrance Ingredient

11
1
38
9
7
42
4
23
8
1
27
62
5
41
4
6
1
3
.1
1
8
21
5
9
17
6
318
83
1
11
13
9
3

Benzyl Alcohol double distilled


Benzophenone
Traseolide 700 Base
Vanillin
Iso E Super
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Caraway Oil - Ukraine
Benzyl Salicylate
Javanol
Anisyl Alcohol
Peonile
Hedione
Lioral
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Florhydral
Vanillinethyl
Florymoss
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Javanol
Citronellol
Liral
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Jasmin Artificial Base
Iso - Eugenol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
Hawthorn
DMBC - Acetate
Rose Substitute
Styrallyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

5
12
37
.3
14
18
22
.1
.1
3
9
10
.1
27
4
8
1
3
.2
1
4
8
3
5
.1
7

Galbanum Resinoid
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Verdox
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Linalool
Hexyl Salicylate
Jasmin Egyptian AbsoluteAbs.
Rose Oxide L
Lily Aldehyde
Neroline
Apple Oliffac
Alcool C - 8
Linalyl Acetate
Rosyrane Super
Peach Pure
Delta Damascone
Neroli Artessence
Massada
Apritone
Cetonal V
Mandarin Oil Italian Distilled
Stemone
Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
Ionone
Tangerine - North Korea

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

113

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY
Top

Melon 17 %
Green Notes .5 %, Violet - Trace, Apple 5 %

Floral Fruity

Bergamot 5 %, Fruity, Strawberry 3 %, Peach 2 %


Middle

Jasmin 7 %

Muguet 4 %, Rose 8 % - Fruity, Violet 3 %


Benzyl Butyrate 1.5 %
Ethyl Aceto Acetate 1 %
Lily 2 %, Carnation 1 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %
Base

Floral

Veltol - Trace
Raspberry - Trace, Sandalwood 2 %, Moss - Trace
Musk 2 %, Amber - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Mossy

Glen O. Brechbill

114

Floral Fruity # 4a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
11
3
24
31
6
5
3
12
4
33
21
1
9
5
74
37
3
6
1
14
12
8
6
3
11
277
9
38
7
3
2
1
9

Veltol
Benzyl Alcohol
Heliotropine
Sandalwood Extender
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Amber Substitute
Raspberry Ketone
Berryflor
Benzyle Butyrate
Muskylein
Hexil Cinamico Aldeido
Benzyl Salicylate
Ambrox DL Coeur
Ethyl Aceto Acetate
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Benzyl Acetate
Fructone
Vetamber ( Kephalis )
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Rosone
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Serenolide
Citronellol
Methyl Para Cresole
Javanol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iraldeine Gamma
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Lilie
Galbanodor CG
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Methyl Jasmonate

Fragrance Ingredient

24
3
53
3
9
.1
103
3
.1
4
.1
1
33
4
.5
9
33
5
4
1
1
1
3
1
.1

Linalool
Benzladehyde
Geraniol 60
Acetyl Eugenol
Peach Blossom FM - 1042
Metil Tuberato
Citroflex # 2
Methyl Amyl Ketone
Rosacene
Geranyl Acetate
Neofolione
Ghost Lily Accord - IFF
Verdox
Neryl Acetate
Jamaica Oil
Nectaryl
Linalyl Acetate
Strawberry Aroma Base
Myraldyl Acetate
Jasmone
Bourgenal
Iritone
Santalyl Acetate
Iso Amyl Geranate
Ribes Nigrum

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

115

Floral Fruity # 4b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
1
.1
45
19
22
28
.1
11
4
15
1
9
63
4
.1
3
6
12
3
27
1
16
.1
23
274
6
22
7
4
5
6
3
33

Benzyl Alcohol
Mousse De Chenne
Veltol
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galaxolide 50
Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China
Sandalwood Extender
Civet Powder # 1b
Benzyl Butyrate
Cedrafix
Benzyl Acetate
Amberwood
Hidroxicitronelal
Acetate De Benzila
p - Cresyl Acetate
Rosalva
Oxanone
Lilie
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Woodynol I
Aldeido Hexil Cinamico
Rose Crystals
Laurine Extra
Alpha Damascone
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Citronellol
Jasmin Province Base
Water Melon Ketone ( Aquamor )
Hysimal
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Ionone For Soap
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Verdox

Fragrance Ingredient

1
.3
159
.1
48
22
.1
1
9
3
22
1
.1
3
1
9
28
1
1
1
.1
1
3
1

cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate


DMBC - Acetate
Fructone
Galbanum Art Essence
Geraniol 60
Linalool
Nonadienal
Osmanthus Fleuriff
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Cyrohexylethylacetate
Strawberry pure
Kir Base # 9741
Alcohol C - 8
Neryl Acetate
cis - Rose Oxide
Di Ethyl Malonate
Linalyl Acetate
Massada
Jasmorange
Lolitol
Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
Santalyl Acetate
Phenafleur
Jasilyn

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

116

Floral Fruity # 4c
Fragrance Ingredient

1
.1
11
24
38
1
1
7
11
.1
24
29
9
11
3
58
31
8
3
29
8
11
7
64
9
282
3
1
8
1
3
.1
4
23

Amber Base
Veltol
Benzyl Alcohol FR
Galaxolide
Phthalate D-Ethyle
Heliotropine
Rasberry Ketone
Vanillin
Benzyle Butyrate
Vetimoss
Benzysalicylate
Ionone Intermediate Base
Eugenol
Fructone
Eugenol
MDJ
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Lilial
Jasmin Artificial Base
Osyrol
Jasphene
Citronellol
Laurine
Geraniol
Lyral
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Vanilla Tincture 20 %
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Terpineol Prime
Phenoxanol
Styrallyl Acetate
Tuberose Oliffac
Hidroxicitronelal
Peach Aroma Base

Fragrance Ingredient

6
.1
9
.1
22
28
111
7
.2
1
12
6
4
33
3
5
.1
13
1
.2
1
4
1
3
6

DMBC - Acetate
Folione
Citroflex # 2
Methyl Cinnimate
Linalool synthetique
Verdox
Melon Oliffac
Peach pure - Givaudan
Aldehyde C - 8
Jasmonyl Acetate
Melonyl 86471 VMF
Berryflor
Aquamor
Linalyl Acetate
Geranyl Acetate 60 % FCC
Di Ethyl Malonate
Stemone
Aldehyde C - 16
Mugone S 207M
3 - Nonen - 2 - ONE
Perryfix
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Tangerine
Bergamot Augaflor 4

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRUITY
Top

Strawberry 4 %
Blueberry 6 %, Lemon 2 %, Orange 5 %

Fruity

Peach 2 %, Grape 3 %, Pineapple 1 %, Cherry 1 %


Middle
Ethyl Butyrate .5 %
Amyl Acetate .5 %
Benzyl Butyrate .5 %
Base

Violet 7 %
Rose 6 % - Sweet, Hawthorn 1 %, Carnation 1 %

Floral

Jasmin 4 %, Cinnamic Alcohol 2.5 %


Vanilla 2 %
Veltol .5 %, Raspberry .5 %, Sandalwood .5 %
Musk .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

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Sweet

Glen O. Brechbill

118

Floral Fruity # 5a
Fragrance Ingredient

4
1
11
13
2
35
24
6
21
36
5
4
3
9
10
8
53
55
17
4
1
12
53
5
19
307
9
11
3
6
3
9
.1
32
13

Veltol
Amberlyn
Alcool Benzila
Vanisal
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
Cremophor - Basf
Alcool Cinamico
Blueberry Treatarome Base
Amyl Acetate
Benzyl Butyrate
Oxanone
Muscone
alpha - Ionone
Ethyl Vanillin
Claigeon
Iraldein Standard Substitute
Eugenol
Citronellol Extra
Anisyl Alcohol
Ethyl Butyrate
Geraniol
Metil Benzoato
Anisic Aldehyde
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Alpha Ionone 80
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Phenyl Carbinol
4 - (P - Acetoxy phenyl ) 2 - Butanone
3 - Octen - 2 - One
Benzaldehyde
Folione
Blueberry Base
Lemon Oil

Fragrance Ingredient

4
2
13
.1
9
3
14
7
1
5
1
3
29
6
8
22
11
48
2
.3
.1
1
1

Cassifix
Rasberry Leaves - IFF
Methyl Anthranilate
Alcohol C - 8
Linalol Natural
Cis - Jasmone
Persicol SA
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Liffarome
Geranyl Acetate
Vertosine
Rose Acetate
Strawberry Aldehyde
Nerol
Peach Blossom FM - 1042
Linalyl Acetate
Aurantiol
Orange CP Brazil
Neryl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 10
Cherry Extract
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Jasmone

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

119

Floral Fruity # 5b
Fragrance Ingredient

10
4
12
33
5
1
38
8
24
5
10
9
22
30
5
19
6
5
3
67
7
8
45
4
329
.1
12
6
1
43
3
12
9
33
1
.1
1

Benzyl Alcohol double distilled


Heliotropine
Vanisal
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Veltol
Anisyl Alcohol
Blueberry Base
Benzaldehyde
Benzyl Slaicylate - IFF
Raspberry Ketone
Eugenol
Ethyl, Vanillin
Cinnamique Alcool
Blueberry Treatarome Base
Ethyl Butyrate
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Citronellol 96 FCC
Methoxymelonal
Benzophenone
Ionone Intermediate Base
Amyl Acetate
Ionone Alpha Refined
Geraniol
Hawthorn Base
Di Propileno Glico
Civet Powder # 1A
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Benzyl Butyrate
Geranyl Iso Valerate
Hedione
Cremaphor Basf
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Linalol
Persicol SA
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Cherry Extract
Vanilys

Fragrance Ingredient

4
17
1
3
6
6
1
1
.1
27
.3
1
22
13
28
.1
.1
1
46
1
1
1
1

Geranyl Acetate
Methyl Anthranilate
Fraistone
Methyl Jasmonate
Nerol
Strawberry Pure
Bigarade Oxide
Geranyl Acetate
Apricot Essence
Linalyl Acetate
Muskylein
Neryl Acetate
Lemon C.P. & Distilled
Aurantiol Pure
Aldehyde C - 16
Ivor Corps
Folione
Cassia Oliffac
Orange Sweet Israel
Galbanodor
Meranol
Wardia
Irival

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

120

Floral Fruity # 5c
Fragrance Ingredient

4
23
1
10
4
33
9
42
8
21
65
3
73
3
11
1
1
12
9
12
27
4
53
9
4
330
3
6
9
27
1
.1
9
3

Balsam Peru Oil


Benzylsalicylate
Veltol
Benzyl Alcohol double distilled
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyl Butyrate
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Cremophor
Alcool Cinamico
Ionone Intermediate Base
Amyl Salicylate
Blueberry Base
Di Hydro Iso Jasmone
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Berryflor
Cetylia Base B
Ionone Alpha 60
Citronellol
Hawthorn
Blueberry Treatarome Base
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Geraniol
Ethyl Butyrate
Vanillin
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Lilial
Geranyl Acetate
Methoxy Melonal
Hercolin - D
OJ Carbinyl STV
Alcool C - 9
Oxanone
Ethyl Vanisal

Fragrance Ingredient

21
4
9
13
5
3
51
6
1
17
1
.1
.1
4
11
13
1
.4
2
1
.3
1
4
2

Peach Aldehyde
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Aurantiol pure
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Aldeido C - 16
Benzaldehyde
Orange Blood Teracco
Linalool Pure 99.5 %
Anisylalcohol
Lemon Oil, Brazil ( Tahiti Type )
Nerol Coeur
Aldehyde C - 10
Methyl Cinnimate
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Linalyl Acetate natural
Methyl Anthranilate
Neryl Acetate - IFF ( Ventos )
Perryfix
Iso Nonyl Acetate
Jasmonyl Acetate
Iso - Eugenol
Geranyl Iso Valerate
Mandarinal
Nerol

1,000

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121

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Rose Fragrance Chemicals

Adoxal
Alcohol C - 8
Alcohol C - 9
Alcohol C - 11 Lenic
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Alpha Damascone

Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like.


Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor.
Powerful oily floral fresh petal like, dilution - rosy.
Fresh rather fatty odor, citrusy waxy rosy petal like note.
Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor.
Intensely fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.

Benzophenone
Beta Damascone
Bois De Rose Essence
Bois De Rose Oil
Bois De Rose Syn AB2034

Powdery geranium rose like.


Fruity apple rose like odor.
Slightly rose like with a sweet undertone.
Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange mignoette.
Excellent substitute for bois de rose oil.
Bois De Rose Terpeneless Oil Floral and reminiscent of rose orange and mignonette.
Citronellol BRI
Citronellol Oil Coeur
Citronellol Oil Extra
Citronellol 700
Citronellol 700 98TA
Citronellol 750
Citronellol 80 Intermediate
Citronellol 850
Citronellol 850
Citronellol 950
Citronellol Last Fraction
Citronellyl Acetate
Citronellyl Acetate A
Citronellyl Acetate BRI
Citronellyl Acetate Pure
Citronellyl Anthranilate
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellyl N Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Formate Natural

Fresh, clean floral rosy odor.


Fresh, rosy, floral rosy.
Purer grade, fresher rosy.
Clean fresh rose, citronellol 70%, Geraniol 7%, Nerol 18%, D M Octanol 5%.
Clean, fresh, rose.
Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 73%.
Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 83.5%.
Clean fresh rose odor, fraction of citronellol 86%.
Clean fresh rose, citronellol 86%, geraniol & nerol 12%.
Clean rose like, citronellol 95%, geraniol and nerol 4 %.
Rosy, not as sweet as a typical fresh floral rose.
Fresh, rosy, fruity odor reminiscent of geranium oil.
Sweet fruity geranium rose citronellyl acetate 85%, neryl acetate 5%.
Fresh, rosy, fruity odor.
Sweet, fruity rose like, citronellyl acetate 95%, neryl acetate 5%.
Rosy, fruity odor, extremely long lasting.
Fresh almost citrusy rosy, intensely fruity and sweet odor.
Intensely fruity, sweet and somewhat rosy leafy, petal like.
Pw leafy green fruity rosy fresh and light reminiscent of geranium rose.
Sweet citrus floral honey.
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Glen O. Brechbill

122

Citronellyl Lactone D
Citronellyl Methyl Acetal
Citronellyl Nitrile
Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate
Citronellyl Propionate
Citronellyl Tiglate
Citronellyl Valerate

Tenacious, spicy, rose absolute character.


A little known citrus note very effective natural note to lemon.
A green rose like scent almost reminiscent of citralva.
Sweet herbaceous rosy, heavy and reminiscent of rose petals.
Fresh fruity, sweet rosy odor more berry fruity odor.
Leafy, rosy geranium note useful in geranium, rose petal bases.
Rosy, herbaceous honey like aroma.

Damas Rose FM1248


Damascenia
Damascenia Rosa Abs.
Damascenia Rosa Concrete
Damascenia 185 SA
Damascenone
Damascone Beta
Delta Damascone
Di Butyl Sulfide
Di Hydro Carvyl Acetate
Di Methyl Octanol
Di Phenyl Oxide
Dorina S A

Is very damascone rose directed.


Rich sweet deep floral rose.
Rich warm spicy floral and very deep rose odor, honey tones.
Extremely rich deep and sweet floral truly reminiscent pink rose.
Very powerful warm fresh top note of rose otto.
A powerful floral fruity note, very natural rose plum like.
Powerful, fruity floral note reminiscent of blackcurrant, plum, rose, dil.
A hybrid floral rose compound.
Green, violet leaf, rose geranium character.
Floral with rose, and cuminsed background, useful in floral accords.
Waxy dry rosy odor.
Harsh floral green, metallic geranium rose type.
Floral rose specialty base extremely fresh and floral.

Ethyl Ortho Methoxy Benzoate Ylang tuberose, floral complex with raspberry and phenolic nuiance.

Farnesyl Acetate
Florane
Florex

Faint, green floral rosy odor use in rose apple and herbal accords.
Powerful, green crrushed petals rose like.
A deep not sweet floral rose fragrance.

Geraniofix AB751
Geraniol
Geraniol Coeur
Geraniol Extra
Geraniol For Soap AB2015
Geraniol 5020
Geraniol 60
Geraniol 600
Geraniol 7030
Geraniol 8020
Geraniol 90
Geraniol 980
Geraniol NC
Geraniol N Supra
Geraniol RG
Geraniol WT

Sweet green geranium rose, best used in 10% dilution.


Mild, and sweet floral rose.
Floral, rose oily and green.
Sweet floral rose coeur grade.
Economical sweet rose base in lieu of geraniol last several days.
Blend of geraniol 52%, nerol 25%, citronellol 20%.
Sweet floral rose.
Fresh rose petal, geraniol 60%, nerol 25%.
Sweet fresh rose, geraniol 71%, nerol 19%.
Sweet fresh rose with a citrus note, geraniol 81%, nerol 18%.
Mild and sweet floral rose.
Dry, rose petal, geraniol 97%.
Floral, spicy note reminiscent of rose & palmarosa with carnation tone.
Typical rosy mild, reminiscent of palmarosa oil
Rose alcohols mix with citrus, verbana notes of nerol, dewy.
Floral rose note with fresh verbena nuances.

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123

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Geraniol X Palmarosa Oil


Geranium Absolute
Geranium Algerian
Geranium Augaflor 9
Geranium Bourbon
Geranium Bourbon Oliffac
Geranium Bourbon Super
Geranium Chinese
Geranium Concrete
Geranium Egyptian
Geranium Moroccan
Geranium Oil

Sweet and floral rose like.


Intense and powerful somewhat leafy earthy but soft pleasant.
Lighter more rosy leafy.
A powerful rose like odour of Bourbon with a high degree of tenacity.
Green leafy rosy strong.
An economical simulation of the natural oil for fine fragrances.
A low priced apporach to geranium oil.
Natural source is China with a fine herbaceous rose like fragrance.
A delightful earthy herbaceous somewhat rosy foilage green like odor.
Floral geranium rose blended from different batches.
Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor.
Has a full leaf like rose odor.
Geranium Oil Syn ABQ 5629 Excellent substitute, interesting fruity and rosy nuances.
Geranium 222
Powerful green, leafy rosy with a fruiy minty undertone, rich.
Geranodyle
Is a complex mixture with a fresh geranium odour.
Geranyl Acetate
Sweet fruity floral rosy.
Geranyl Acetate Extra
The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost.
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Sweet, fruity and rose, geranyl acetate 98%.
Geranyl Acetone
Fresh floral light, but rather penetrating sweet rosy light green.
Geranyl Anthranilate
Heavy sweet floral rose.
Geranyl Benzoate
Faint rosy, very tenacious mildly floral.
Geranyl N Butyrate
Sweet rather heavy fruity rosy odor.
Geranyl Caproate
Fruity geranium rose like.
Geranyl Formate
Fresh somewhat dry green leafy rosy odor.
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Sweeter than n butyrate.
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
Soft floral honey rose like.
Geranyl Propionate
Sweet fruity rose warm.
Geranyl Tiglate
Quite pleasant sweet herbaceous geranium like fragrance.
Iso Amyl Geranate
Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate
Iso Damascone
Iso Rose

Rosy, lemon honey character.


Powerful leafy rosy musky fragrance.
A nice sweet slightly fruity green rose complex.
An isomeric rose floral compound.

Lorena

Has a fresh odor of rose that recalls tang of the sea.

Meranol
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Methyl Tuberate

Dry rose petal.


Fruity rosy orange like.
Floral most likely tuberose, rose like material not sweet.

Neo Rose Otto


Nerol
Nerol A
Nerol BG

A very high quality rose otto replacement at a lower cost.


Sweet rosy refreshing wet seashore like.
Sweet rosy refreshing.
A good general purpose rose verbena quality with a warm spicy.
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Glen O. Brechbill

Nerol Coeur
Nerol 800
Nerol 850
Nerol G
Nerol 900
Nerol O M
Nerol Petals
Nerol Regular
Nerol Special
Neryl Acetate
Neryl Butyrate
Neryl Formate
Neryl Geranyl Acetate
Neryl Iso Butyrate
Neryl Iso Valerate
Neryl Propionate

124

Moderately priced lemon verbena note dominating the rosy.


Sweet fresh citrusy rose.
Sweet citrusy, rose and fresh.
A powerful refreshing, clean lemon rose odor.
Sweet floral rose fresh citrus like.
Earthy, musty, palmarosa notes covering the verbena character.
Sweet rosy leafy refreshing.
A green note blends with the rose verbena tones in this grade.
A fresh sea shore like floral rose.
Very sweet fruity, floral odor of raspberry rose.
Green waxy oily and fatty.
Rosy, herbaceous green character.
Citrus sweet floral.
Rosy, berry character.
Rich, clary sage of bergamot odor in oriental, oakmoss.
Fruity, jam like odor used in citrus and floral fragrances.

Octanol 2
A floral rosy fresh odor.
Octanol Nitrile 10 B - 2216 A rosy floral odor.
Palmarosa Oil
Palmarosa Oil Brazil
Palmarosa Oil Guatemala
Palmarosa India
Patinol AB286
Peomosa
Peonile
Phenirat
Phenoxanal
Phenoxy Ethanol
Phenoxy Ethyl Alcohol
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Acetal
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Extra
Phenyl Ethyl Benzoate
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnimate
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Pivalate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Pivane 22

Sweet floral rosy odor.


Palmarosa has a sweet, floral, rosy scent.
A pale yellow or olive colored liquid with a sweet floral rosy odor.
Palmarosa oil has a sweet floral with a hint of rose.
Is more geranium rosy in character then geranofix.
Floral, rose mimosa like with a special light dry out.
With its geranium-rosy character provides interesting floral effects.
Sweet, fruity, floral like rose somewhat honey.
Fresh floral rose.
Mild rosy, but also metallic.
Mild honey rose odor.
Sweet fruity rosy floral.
Warm, green leafy also rosy balsamic odor.
Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Mild and warm rose honey like odor.
Fine, smooth, more powerful quality lasts a few days.
Very faint floral balsamic odor reminiscent of dry rose petals.
Very faint and sweet pleasant balsamic odor.
Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Fresh fruity tea rose type.
Heavy and very sweet floral balsamic odor, musky honey like.
Floral possibly faintly rosy pratically no odor.
Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
A sweet rosy floral fragrance.
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125

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Pivarose
Polarose

Pleasant, tea rose.


Powerful fatty oily waxy rosy odor.

Racinia
Rhodinol Coeur
Rhodinol X Citronella
Rhodinol X Geranium Oil
Rhodinyl Acetate
Rhodinyl N Butyrate
Rhodinyl Formate
Rhodinyl Phenyl Acetate
Rhodinyl Propionate
Rhodinyl Salicylate
Rhodinyl Valerate
Rosacene
Rosalva
Rosamusk
Rose Abs. Morocco
Rose Abs. Oliffac
Rose Abs. Turkey
Rose AB380D
Rose Acetate
Rosania FM1018
Roseate
Rose Bulgare Oil
Rose Concrete Morocco
Rose Crystals
Rose De Mai
Rose De Mai Abs.
Rose De Mai Abs. French
Rose Essence 193
Rose Essence Bulgare
Rose Geranium Augaflor 19
Rose Givco 217
Roseessence 17.600B
Rose Moroccan Abs.
Rose Moroccan Oil
Rose Nitrile
Rose Oil Moroccan
Rose Oil Moroccan Select
Rose Oil Otto
Rose Oil Templar
Rose Oil Turkey

A dry floral rose complex.


Geranium rose.
Naturally sweet rosy floral.
Floral, rose sweet waxy and powdery.
Sweet, light refreshing rose muguet, green leafy notes.
Intensely sweet mellow fruity deep rosy.
Fresh leafy green delicate rosy.
Sweet, very deep soft honey like rose.
Rich and sweet fruity floral rose geranium type.
Very weak sweet rosy powdery balsamic odor.
Heavy fruity, slight earthy green, but also sweet odor.
A nice light delicate floral rose compound not overly sweet.
Powerful fatty oily, waxy rose odor.
Unusual combination of rose with musky modifications.
Extremely fresh and sweet floral rose odor.
An inexpensive substitute of natural absolutes from rose petals.
A tenacious diffusive sweet floral, truly captures fresh flower.
Rose absolute, slightly herbal animalic tones.
Mild floral rosy.
Diffusive natural green geranium rose.
Delicate moist rose petal tone with gentle power.
Intensely rose like, and sweet.
Has a warm deep floral, slight woody sweet with honey like notes odor.
Mild, at first very weak green rosy balsamic odor.
Rich, sweet, deep rosy very tenacious odor with honey notes.
Rich and sweet deep rosy tenacious odor.
Has a rich sweet, deep rosy very tenacious odor.
A very strong, but yet sweet floral rosy fresh odor.
A very diffusive vivacious rose odor, slightly sweet and floral.
A wonderfully rich, warm rosey odour reminiscent of a summer day.
Warm rosy resembling natural Turkish oil quite delightful.
Full, rich, strong as natural rose otto bulgarian.
Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose odor.
Fragrant rose and characteristic of the flower.
A rich rose geranium woody note with excellent strength.
Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose.
The finest moroccan rose fragrance at an attractive cost.
Warm deep floral slightly spicy odor reminiscent of red roses.
A typical sweet rose odor whose source is rooted in English lore.
Diffusive strong vibrant floral rose scent reminiscent of the rose.
An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense or over powering.

Rose Oil Turkey Commercial

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126

Rose Oil Turkish


Rose Orient
Rose Otto Augaflor
Rose Otto Syn. Pour Savon
Rose Otto Turque Oil
Rose Oxide D
Rose Oxide Inactive
Rose Oxide L
Rose Oxide R
Rose Oxyde
Rose Oxyde Gauche
Rosetal A
Rose Tenace
Rose Turkey Absolute
Rose Turque Essence

Sweet floral rose.


Intensely rose like, mysterious diffusive, rounded and nice.
A deep, warm, rich unmistakable rose odor.
A low cost simulation of rose otto for general purposes.
Sweet, intense floral rose.
Gives fresh herbal rose effects and rosy green nuances.
A compound with an intensive note of roses.
Constituent of bulgarian attar of roses.
Reminiscent of rose geranium.
Green, very diffusive fresh note which resembles geranium oil.
Similar although sweeter, fresher and more diffusive.
Diffusive rose absolute type odor for use in floral based fragrances.
Diffusive long lasting rose odor suggests otto of rose.
Deep sweet rich rosy floral odor, souce Turkey.
Fragrant rose characteristic.

Top Rose ABQ5644


Trans 4 Decenal # 382
Tuberanthia SA
Tuberose Abs.
Tubereuse 181
Tuberose Oliffac
Tuberose Pomenade

The top note of bulgarian rose oil lasts a few weeks.


Floral rosy.
Floral rosy.
Tuberose.
A heavy sweet almost nauseating floral odor of tuberose.
A reconstitution of tuberose absolute, rich warm, sensual.
Sweet intense floral character of tuberose.
A heavy sweet almost overpowering tuberose odor.

Wardia

A classic reproduction of rose de mai absolute, powerful.

Trans De Cadro Beta Naphyl

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Violet Fragrance Chemicals

Alpha Ionone
Alpha Ionone 60
Alpha Ionone White Coeur

Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive.


Mild floral violet odor.
Floral violet like.

Beta Ionone
Beta Ionone R
Bicyclohexanone P

Warm woody dry odor with a fruity undertone


Dry powdery, floral, woody, orris.
Cyclamen floral note with orris, woody, ozone nuances, fresh.

Cetonal

Is an elegant ingredient used in woody, orris accords as well as with


leather, tobacco and animal notes where it acts as an excellent
blending agent and adds to the harmony of a fragrance.
Tenacious floral violet compound.
Has many facets to its character and thus has many uses. It blends
well with ionones, citrus notes, lavender, fruity and oriental accords
where it adds body and excellent diffusion.

Cetone Alpha
Cetone V

Folione

Used in traces, produces violet-leaf and cucumber notes. It blends


extremely well with products in the orris family of ionones.

Ionantheme 100 %

Is used largely in floral, violet bouquets, but also in fruit accords


to provide volume and substantivity. Is fruitier and less woody
than either Irisone Alpha or Irisone pure.
Ionol Alpha
Berry, sweet ionone like with a woody floral powdery note.
Ionol Beta
Sweet, woody berry powdery, floral and fruity.
Ionone
Warm, balsamic, violet floral.
Ionone Alpha
Floral, violet, woody fruity.
Ionone Alpha Extra
Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha Beta Regular Warm, woody more violet, alpha ionone 60%, beta ionone 30%.
Ionone Alpha Methyl C
Floral violet.
Ionone Alpha Methyl Naphyl A very faint slightly sweet floral violet type odor.
Ionone Alpha Refined
Fruity, woody violet, fresher, alpha Ionone 81%, beta ionone 9%.
Ionone Alpha Regular
Warm, woody violet, alpha ionone 70%, beta ionone 30%.
Ionone Alpha White Coeur Floral violet.
Ionone Beta Pure
More fruity, and woody like than alpha.
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Ionone 100 %
Iraldein Delta
Iraldein Gamma
Iraldein 100%
Iralia
Iris Aldehyde
Iris Beurre Essence
Iris Beurre Oil
Iris Concrete
Iris Concrete 8 % Irone
Iris Concrete 11 % Irone
Iris Concrete 199 KSA
Iris Givco 204/2

128

Iris 199 D
Iris 199/K SA
Iris 199 SA
Iris Resin
Iris Resinoid
Iritone
Irival
Irone Alpha Refined
Iso Butyl Benzoate

Violet odor with a suggestion of cedarwood and orris.


Floral violet as well as with dry powdery iris nuances.
Sweetly floral like violet slightly fruity like fig and raspberry.
Pleasant floral like violet as well as somewhat woody.
A very pure orris or violet note of powdery woody character.
Extremely powerful, and diffusive orisy odor.
Orris violet.
Orris violet.
Woody oily violet like odor.
Orris, violet leaf like green odor.
Orris, violet leaf like green odor.
Woody fatty oily but distinctly violet floral.
This is a floral base specifically designed to match the scent of orris absolute
for use in functional applications. This reconstitution reflects the different facets
of natural orris absolute: gourmand, floral, woody and powdery. Iris Givco
204/2 acts as a modifier of Isoraldeine 70 and Ionone Beta, boosting and
imparting sparkling and vibrant effects to them. It also blends beautifully with
floral-green accords and enriches woody/chypre themes. This base does not
lead to discolouration. Cost-effective, natural-smelling and stable replace-ment
for orris absolute
Violet floral orris like.
Violet floral.
Widely used in perfume compositions of almost all types. The use of the fragrances in rose bases is very common. It is used in woody, floral, balsamic,
piney or citrus-like fragrances.
Widely used in perfumes designed for functional products. Its powerful, rich,
floral-violet character is easy to blend with many floral, woody, aldehydic,
fruity and chypre accords.
Wax like mass of woody, but distinctly violet odor.
A reconstitution of iris concrete.
A reconstitution of iris absolute.
Deep sweet slightly woody tobacco like.
Oily woody violet like.
A velvety floral note in the violet ionone family.
Concentrated orris note.
Soft warm orris violet like sweet and diffusive.
Weak fresh orisy odor.

Linalool Terpenes

Floral woody iris, quite harsh odor not pleasant.

Mahagonate
Merion
Methyl Ionone
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra

Woody spicy resembling patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood iris.


Highly diffusive floral, oriental woody complex with violet note.
Warm, woody floral violet lasts several days.
Orris violet floral.

Iris Noir Abs.


Irisodor
Irisone Alpha

Irisone Pure

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Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra


Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso
Methyl Ionone Alpha 60
M I A Iso Super FM1110
Methyl Ionone Beta
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Methyl Ionone Extra
Methyl Ionone Extra 500
Methyl Ionone Gamma A
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Methyl Ionone Gamma Extra

Methyl Ionone Gamma Pure


Methyl Ionone Gamma Replacer
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme

Methyl Ionone Regular


Methyl Ionone Regular 450
Methyl Ionone Residue
Methyl Ionone Tails
Methyl Ionone Terpenes
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Methyl Octine Carbonate Sub.

Methyl Octyne Carbonate

Neofolione

Nonadienal
2,6 Nonadien 1 OL
2, 6, Nonadienal # 332
2, 6 Nonad 1 al Diethyl Acetal

Nonadienol

Octyl Formate
Orriniff 25 % IPM
Orris Abs.
Orris Augaflor 13

Orris Concrete

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Floral, violet, isomeric mixture.


Precious wood tobacco, creamy violet.
Floral, violet, isomeric mixture.
A sophisticated product in which the violet florality is enhanced.
Woody warm odor.
Purer grade more woody, and warm.
Mild floral odor of violets.
Floral, woody, violet.
A floral violet woody isomeric mixture.
Woody, floral violet.
Mild floral odor of violets.
Woody, floral violet, dry.
Familiar woody floral complex, tobacco like undertone.
Floral violet woody fruity complex.
Mild floral odor of violets.
Violet, woody.
Harsh floral violet slightly woody.
A harsh woody floral violet odor, reminiscent of ionone beta.
Harsh woody solvent masking odor.
Green violet leaf like.
An unrestricted and safe replacement.
Widely used in floral notes. It produces the powerful yet subtle
note of violet leaves with a fruity-vegetable cucumber undertone.
Blends very well with most floral notes, especially violet, where it is particularly useful in replacing Folione. It imparts freshness and diffusion and has good
stability.
Blends well in green top note accords. Used as a modifier it imparts
a natural violet leaf aspect.
Cucumber or violet flower odor.
Intense powerful vegetable green, reminiscent of violet leaves.
Smooth floral violet, melon odor.
A constituent of violet leaves as well as of cucumber. Is effective in a
wide range of applications in adding a natural melon-cucumber note.
It is olfactively similar to Nonadienal, but is fruitier and less leafy.
Powerful and relatively diffusive fruity green orris.
Floral, violet, orris leather.
A floral green violet like odor.
This beautiful orris blend has all of the orris characteristics, warm in the top
note, cascading into a sea of violet, thus extending the Perfumer's art to include
this delicate fragrance.
Floral violet.

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130

Orris Concrete Natural


Orris Conc. Natural Essence
Orris Extract
Orris Oil
Orris Resin Abs.
Orris Resinoid

Oily violet leaf like.


Violet floral.
Waxy sweet floral violet with berry woody nuances.
Floral violet.
Floral violet.
A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.

Parmavert
Pseudo M I Terpenes

Powerful floral green, sweet and violet leaf like.


A harsh floral violet like odor.

Raldeine A GV

A special quality of methyl ionone containing larger amounts of the


n-alpha greater 50 %, and n-beta typically 15 %. The result is a woodier,
fruitier olfactive character.
Powerful green note, fruity floral and herbal, undertone orris.

Rhuboflor
Violet

Violet Abs. French


Violet Abs. Rue
Violet Abs. Selection
Violet Augaflor 27
Violet Colorless 54.5219
Violet Concrete
Violet Leaf Absolute
Violet Leaf Abs. N.Y. 11149

Violet Leaves Abs.


Violet Leaves Abs.
Violet Leaf Abs.
Violiff

A favorite in Sufi healing since a hadith of the Prophet states that


"the excellence of the extract is above all others extracts as the
excellence of me is above all of the rest of creation". A shy yet
deep and early scent for quiet beauties.
Strong herbaceous floral violet.
Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil.
Strong floral violet odor.
A fresh, green, violet odour. Long lasting, with a wonderful deep
green odour.
Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.
Characteristic of fresh violet leaves with a possible source in Egypt.
Oily green cucumber leafy fresh sweet floral odor quite strong.
Green floral violet, very subtle slightly sweet.
Powerful green leaf odor delicately floral note reminiscent violet.
Green, melon floral, fresh waxy and leafy.
Slightly violet, not strong or sweet.
Floral, violet, banana.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Jasmin Fragrance Chemicals

Benzyl Acetate
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Benzyl Acetate FFC
Benzyl Propionate

Strong sweet fresh fruity floral odor of many types of flowers.


A richer, softer jasmin.
Floral, jasmine
Fruity sweet, floral undertone type jasmin.

Claigeon
Cepionate
Cis-Jasmon
Cis-2-Pentenol
CIS Jasmone

Jasmin-like.
Powdery long lasting, jasmin.
Diffusive, fruity jasmin.
Powerful, jasmin, like.
Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.

Delphone
Di Hydro Iso Jasmone
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Di Hydro Jasmone
Di Jasmone
D M B C - Acetate

Powerful, diffusive and complex floral aromatic and fruity, jasmin.


Lactonic, floral, jasmine.
Fruity odor floral jasmin.
Fruity sweet floral woody with a powdery nuance.
A full, deep jasmin type odor, intensely floral.
Fresh powerful fruity floral odor of jasmin, lily.

2-Heptyl Cyclopentanone
2-n-Hexyl Cyclopentanone

Floral, herbal, jasmin-like.


Green floral, jasmin-like.

Iso Jasmone
Iso Jasmone Pure

Isomeric floral jasmin mixture.


Powerful, latonic, celery - jasmin.

Jasmacylene
Jasmal
Jasmaprunate
Jasmatone
Jasmelia
Jasmin # 187
Jasmin AB13
Jasmin AB 410
Jasmin Abs.
Jasmin Abs. Concrete Syn

Low cost, fresh diffusive green, woody anise, herby, - jasmin.


Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.
Fruity like apple jasmin dry slightly green like wild grapes.
Diffusive, warm spicy celery, with a hint of frutiness, - jasmin.
A pungent jasmin, jasmone odor with a hint of parsley.
A sweet floral fruity jasmin floral complex.
Economical but tenacious base with a fruity top note.
Long lasting, absolute note of floral jasmin.
Floral jasmin not overly sweet like cananga oil.
A pleasant fruity sweet floral jasmin odor.
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Jasmin Abs. Italian Max.


Jasmin Abs. Oliffac
Jasmin Chassis Abs.
Jasmin Concrete
Jasmin Egyptian
Jasmin Egyptian C2612
Jasmin Etoile Givco 144
Jasmin Lactone
Jasmin Petals Abs. Egypt
Jasmin 74D
Jasmine
Jasmolactone
Jasmolactone CNC
Jasmo Lactone XC
Jasmoneige
Jasmonol
Jasmonyl
Jasmonyl Acetate
Jasmophyll
Jasmorange
Jasmopyrane
Jasmopyrane Forte
Jessemal

132

The purest heart of the floral jasmin.


An economical approach of the precious jasmin flower.
Resembles orange flower absolute, warm sweet and heavy.
With a varying source odor is waxy, fatty sweet jasmin like.
An extremely fine floral jasmin fragrance.
Has fine jasmin top note quite diffusive.
Spicy warm floral.
Powerful cream, jasmine, peach coconut note.
A sweet strong jasmin green floral petal like odor.
A reconstitution of jasmin absolute.
The sweetest and most celebrated flower of North Africa.
Sweet fruity floral jasmin.
Oily, fruity floral petal like suggestive of many floral absolutes.
Jasmin absolute odor with a buttery note.
Natural jasmin.
Floral waxy odor works well in tuberose, honeysuckle and jasmin.
Intensely sweet floral jasmin.
Jasmin somewhat pear like odor.
Sweet floral fruity like jasmin slight green herbal woody nuance.
Fruity balsamic, green floral, aldehydic.
Rich, waxy, sweet floral jasmin complex.
More tenacious floral jasmin, and has a slight mushroomy note.
Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Lactone CIS Jasmone # 114 Soft floral odor of jasmin.


Lactone of CIS Jasmone # 411 A floral waxy, jasmine absolute odor. Used in jasmine fragrances.
Methyl Jasmonate
Methyl Jasmonate Extra

The floral heart of jasmin, petal soft and tenacious, elegant.


More powerful and floral than standard material extremely diffusive.

Zeppin

Diffusive, sweet, noble jasmin.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Floral Fresh

FLORAL FRESH
A flower that is found in nature can be fresh, yet sweet and green. This is part of the classification of fine
fragrances that is open to interpretation. Some suggest that this type of fragrance can be based on hyacinth, lily
of the valley and orange blossom with a fresh fruity note of Bergamot and other citrus materials. Jasmine based
on Benzyl Acetate or Hedione can also be part of the theme.
Top

Bergamot 8 % - Fruity

Floral Fruity

Orange 4 %, Peach 1 %, Jasmin .5 %


Middle

Rose 22 % Warm
Jasmin 10 %, Violet 5 %, Muguet 4 %

Green Ivy Givco 2 %


Geranium 1 %
Base

Floral

Lilac 4 %, Carnation 4 %
Amber .5 %
Musk .5 %, Sandal 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Amber

Glen O. Brechbill

134

Floral Fresh # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

3
11
34
6
23
5
9
10
6
.1
4
3
96
5
3
11
4
23
31
3
4
127
9
77
276
3
19
1
.1
1
41
.3
1
1
17
3

Vanilla Beans - Madagascar


Musk Ambrette Substitute
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Amyris Oil
Benzyl Salicylate
Musk Dione
Galbanum Oil A
Salicylate DAmyle
Vanillin
Anisyl Alcohol
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Pelargene
Benzyl Acetate
Anisque Aldehyde
Methyl Benzoate
Ionone Alpha Refined
Methyl Cedyl Ketone
Citronellol 850
Eugenol
Ethyl Vanisal
Styrax Resinoide
Geraniol
Iridales
Lilac Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Ionone
Musk abs. CLess
Alpha Damascone
Lyral
3 - Octyl Acetate
Cassis
Orinox
Linallol (l) ( natural )
Syringa

Fragrance Ingredient

6
8
1
3
9
17
8
12
.1
23
3
1
12
.3
.1
1
4
3
1
5
3
9

Methyl Anthranilate
Lime Oil C.P.
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Santalol
Ionone - alpha
Peach Aldehyde
Aurantiol
Lemon USA - CA
Blackcurrant Absolute
Linalyl Acetate
Petilyn
Meranol
Lyrame
Jasilyn
Leaf Alcohol
Black Tea Tincture
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Ethyl Geranate
Jacinthe Augaflor 11
Givescone
Veraflor
Citron Corps

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

135

Floral Fresh # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

5
2
1
3
24
21
1
3
6
11
13
46
25
1
3
2
43
28
6
8
7
42
105
11
287
4
.1
9
7
4
4
9
68
.1

Ethylene Brassylate
Cedryl Acetate
Ambrox DL Coeur
Benzophenone
Benzylsalicylate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Heliomet
Cashmeran
Resinoide Galbeno
Sandalwood Extender
Benteine
Ionone For Soap Base
Citronellol
Irotyl
Sandasweet
Benzoin Resinoid
Rose For Soap Base
Eugenol
Di Metil Octanol
Hysimal
Osyrol
Lilac Base
Geraniol
Methyl Ionone Alpha
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
y - Irone
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Floramat
Santall
Geranyl Acetate Ex. Palmarosa
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Violettyne MIP

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
3
.1
42
13
35
.1
2
1
1
9
47
4
3
3
.2
5
.1
2
3
6
11
.2

Alcohol C - 10
DMBC - Acetate
Rose Oxide R
Orange Oil of Florida
Aldehyde C - 14
Linalool 99 %
Rose Absolute Decolorized
Methyl Diantilis
Rose Acetate
Folia SA
Orange Peel ( sweet )
Linalyl Acetate
Persicol SA
Tangerinr Oil Florida
Meranol
Aldehyde 13 - 13
Floreal
Leaf Alcohol
Iso - Eugenol
Fraisberry
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Hedione
Iris Beurre Essence

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

136

Floral Fresh # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

12
3
4
.1
24
9
5
27
3
.1
1
6
19
73
7
38
.1
8
34
37
138
3
1
54
3
290
1
.1
4
2
34
1
1
4
2
.1

Santalex T Neat
Benzophenone
Amber Base
Civet Powder # 1B
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galaxolide 50
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Benzyl Salicylate
Iridales
Alpha Damascone
Amberwood
Irone V
Citronellol Coeur
MDJ
Green Ivy Givco 168
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Alcohol C - 8
Liral
Jasmin Province Base
Terpineol PG
Geraniol 98 %
Lioral
Iso Jasmone
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Javanil
Di Propileno Glico
Top Muguet
Angel Essence
Iso Eugenol
Methyl Diantilis
Etil Linalol
Vanilla Tincture 20 %
Citronellyl Acetate
Iso Jasmone B 11
Para Cresyl redistilled
Undecavertol

Fragrance Ingredient

6
3
41
1
48
7
4
2
5
3
.1
1
9
.1
.1
4
1
.3
1
4
7
3
1

Lavender Oil
Fraise 3333 SA
Orange Oil Sweet - US
Citronellyl Acetate
Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
Peach Aldehyde
Melfloral
Geranyl Acetate
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Grapefruit Cypress White
Alcohol C - 10
Styrallyl Acetate
Orange Florida Midseason
Aldehyde 13 - 13
Rose Oxide R
Peach Blossom FM - 1042
Vanilla Beans
Hydroxycitronellal DMA
Sandalwood, India
Bergamot Oil Sicily
alpha - Ionone
Santaliff
Levanalis

1,000

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137

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL FRESH
Top

Grape 1 %
Bergamot 4 % - Dry, Lemon 1 %, Lime - .5 %

Floral

Peach 1 %
Middle
Amyl Slaicylate 1 %
Methyl Benzoate 1 %

Jasmin 10 %
Violet 3.5 %, Muguet 7 %, Hawthorn 2 %

Fresh Floral

Carnation 4 %, Lilac 9 %, Rose 20 %


Base

Musk 1 %
Galbanum .5 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Styrax .5 %
Vanilla 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Sweet

Glen O. Brechbill

138

Floral Fresh # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

3
2
.1
.2
35
2
119
28
14
3
14
30
1
9
7
34
2
1
9
5
11
8
73
9
293
1
35
4
39
3
13
36
9
4
3

Amber Substitute
Raspberry Ketone
Civet Augaflor 3
Veltol
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Safraleine
Galaxolide 50 DEP
Salicylate De Benzyle
Osyrol
Ethyl Butyrate
Alicate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Ambrofix
Hyacinth PP
Citroflex # 2
Benzyl Acetate
Butyl Acetate
Iso - Eugenol
Hexyl Acetate
Methyl Benzoate
a - Ionone Extra
Citronellol
Muguet Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Di Propileno Glico
Ultrazeur
Geraniol Coeur
Florhydral
Linalyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
DMBC - Acetate
Dihydromyrcenol
Hexyl Salicylate
Santalex T
Rhodiascent Extra Pure

Fragrance Ingredient

1
3
4
9
1
.1
5
3
.1
22
5
10
.2
1
4
1
47
.1
11
.1
2
.1
1

Raspberry Leaves - IFF


Orange Flower Base
Methyl Pamplemousse
Triplal
Ghost Lily
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
C - 16
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Linalool
Strawberry Pure
Lemon Oil California
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Muguet Aldehyde
Lime - Gambia
Tuberose Oliffac
Verdox
Folione
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Leaf Orient
Iridales
Rose Turque Essence
Honeysuckle

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

139

Floral Fresh # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

6
3
19
27
5
34
9
8
11
14
3
15
6
8
74
.1
5
23
9
1
.1
73
4
8
291
21
6
8
13
21
11
24
117
9
3
1

Vanilina
Kephalis
Benzyl Salicylate
Osyrol
Galbanum Colorized
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Styrax Purified
Amyl Salicylate
Galaxolide 50
Ethyl, Vanillin
Ionone Alpha Refined
Hyacinth PP
Metil Benzoato
Acetate de Benzila
Rosalva
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Ionone Intermediate Base
Anisic Aldehyde
Vanilla Resinoid
Alcohol C - 9
Lilac Base
Javanol
Lyral
Di Propileno Glico
Hedione
Citronellol 750
Syringa
Rose For Soap Base
Linalol
Lemon Oil Italian C.P.
Eugenol Pure
Geraniol
Persicol SA
Eugenol Acetate
Rhodiaflor SB

Fragrance Ingredient

24
2
1
.1
6
3
.1
.1
6
2
1
27
.3
13
8
4
.1
3
8
1
1
.1

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol


Nutmeg East Indian
Floral
Tuberose Oliffac
Methyl Anthranlate
Berryflor
Nonadienal
Rose Iran Double Distilled Oil
Dimetol
Jasmin Egyptian
Geranium Oil Chinese
Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
Santalyl Acetate
Lemon Oil - Washed
Dihydromyrcenol
Leguminal
Celery Essence
Lime, Steam Distilled
Aurantiol pure
Iris Beurre Oil
Jasmylone 99
Leaf Alcohol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

140

Floral Fresh # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

3
11
34
6
23
5
9
10
6
.1
4
3
96
5
3
11
4
23
31
3
4
127
9
77
276
3
19
1
.1
1
41
.3
1
1
17
3
6

Vanilla Beans - Madagascar


Galaxolide Artessence
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Amyris Haiti
Benzyl Salicylate 98 % - China
Musk Dione
Galbanum Oil A
Salicylate DAmyle
Vanillin
Anisyl Alcohol
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Pelargene
Benzyl Acetate FCC
Anisque Aldehyde
Methyl Benzoate
Ionone Alpha Refined
Methyl Cedyl Ketone
Citronellol
Eugenol
Ethyl Vanisal
Styrax Resinoide
Geraniol
Ionone Alpha
Lilac Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Ionone
Musk Abs. CLess
Alpha Damascone
Lyral
3 - Octyl Acetate
Cassis
Orinox
Linallol (l) ( natural )
Syringa
Methyl Anthranilate

Fragrance Ingredient

8
1
3
9
17
8
12
.1
23
3
1
12
.3
.1
1
4
3
1
5
3
9

Lime Oil C.P.


cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Verdantiol
Ionone - alpha
Peach Aldehyde
Aurantiol
Lemon USA - CA
Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
Linalyl Acetate
Petilyn
Meranol
Lyral
Sparkling Champagne
Leaf Alcohol
Black Tea Tincture
Soft Skin Accord - IFF
Ethyl Geranate
Jacinthe Augaflor 11
Florymoss
Veraflor
Citron Corps

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

141

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Floral Sweet

FLORAL SWEET
A floral sweet fragrance is often described as a floriental. Fragrances in this family can include gardenia,
jas mine, freesia, and orange flower. A fine sweet fragrance can be based on Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl
Cinnamic Aldehyde, Vetiver including exotic spices and their essences.
Top
Hexyl Salicylate 4 %
Hexyl Acetate 1 %
Triplal .5 %

Jasmin 1.5 %
Lime 4 %, Bergamot 6 %, Apple 5 %, Raspberry .5 %

Fruity Sweet

Strawberry .5 %, Pineapple 1 %, Lemon 1 %

Middle

Muguet 8 %

Fructone 1 %
Butyl Acetate .75 %
Ethyl Butyrate .25 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %

Rose 4 %, Jasmin 1.5 %, Violet 3 %

Floral

Hyacinth 1 %, Lily 1 %
Amber - Trace

Base
Musk 12 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Civet - Trace
Sandalwood 1 %, Veltol - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

142

Floral Sweet # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

3
2
.1
.2
35
2
129
28
4
3
14
35
1
4
7
34
2
1
9
5
11
8
73
9
293
1
35
4
39
3
13
36
9
4

Amberwood
Oxanone
Civet Powder # 1B
Raspberry Ketone
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Safraleine
Galaxolide 50
Salicylate De Benzyle
Osyrol
Ethyl Butyrate
Alicate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Ambrofix
Styrax Coeur
Citroflex
Benzyl Acetate
Butyl Acetate
Iso, Eugenol
Hexyl Acetate
Methyl Benzoate
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Citronellol 750
Muguet Base
Methyl Ionone
Di Propileno Glico
Ultrazeur
Geraniol
Florhydral
Linalyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
DMBC - Acetate
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Hexyl Salicylate
Sandela

Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
3
4
9
1
.1
5
3
.1
22
5
13
.2
1
4
1
44
.1
11
.1
2
.1
1

Helional
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Orange Flower Base
Pamplemousse
Triplal
Lyral
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Aldehyde C - 16
Geranyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Linalool - Kurary
Strawberry Pure
Lemon Oil California
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Muguet Aldehyde
Lime - Gambia
Methyl Tuberate Pure
Verdox
Folione
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Leaf Orient
Iridales
Rose Turque Essence
Honeysuckle

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

143

Floral Sweet # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

3
2
.1
.2
35
2
119
28
14
3
14
30
1
9
7
34
2
1
9
5
11
8
73
9
293
1
35
4
39
3
13
36
9
4
3

Amber Substitute
Oxanone
Civet Augaflor 6
Veltol
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Pepperwood
Galaxolide 50 DEP
Salicylate De Benzyle
Osyrol
Ethyl Butyrate
Alicate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Ambrofix
Hyacinth PP
Frutone
Benzyl Acetate
Butyl Acetate
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Hexyle Acetate
Methyl Benzoate
a - Ionone Extra
Citronellol
Lilial
Methyl Ionone
Di Propileno Glico
Ultrazeur
Geraniol 60
Florhydral
Linalyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
DMBC - Acetate
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Hexyl Salicylate
Sandalore
Coumarin pure

Fragrance Ingredient

1
3
4
9
1
.1
5
3
.1
19
5
12
.2
1
2
1
47
.1
14
.1
2
.1
1

Raspberry Leaves - IFF


Orange Flower Base
Methyl Pamplemousse
Triplal
Lilie
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Aldehyde C - 16
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Linalol S 97
Strawberry
Lemon Oil of Florida
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Muguet Aldehyde
Lime Oil # 410
Tuberose Oliffac
Verdox
Orange Flower Abs.
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Leaf Orient
Iridales
Rose Turque Essence
Kir Base # 9741

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

144

Floral Sweet # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

2
2
.1
.2
36
2
124
28
14
3
14
25
1
9
7
37
2
1
6
5
11
12
73
3
293
1
41
4
35
3
13
36
9
4

Amber Substitute
Oxanone
Civet Augaflor 3
Veltol
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Safraleine
Galaxolide 50 Dpg
Salicylate De Benzyle
Osyrol
Ethyl Butyrate
Alicate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Ambrofix
Hyacinth PP
Frutone
MDJ
Butyl Acetate
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Hexyl Acetate
Methyl Benzoate
a - Ionone Extra
Citronellol
Muguet Base
Methyl Ionone
Di Propileno Glico
Ultrazeur
Geraniol 60
Florhydral
Linalyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Hexyl Salicylate
Santalex T

Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
3
4
9
1
.1
5
3
.1
22
5
10
.2
1
4
1
47
.1
11
.1
2
.1
1

Helional
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Orange Flower Base
Methyl Pamplemousse
Triplal
Ghost Lily
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Aldehyde C - 16
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Linalool - Kurary
Strawberry Pure
Lemon Oil California
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Muguet Aldehyde
Lime - Gambia
Tuberose Oliffac
Verdox
Nonadienal
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Leaf Orient
Iritone V
Rose Turque Essence
Honeysuckle

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

145

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL SWEET
Bergamot 5 %

Top

Orange Flower 1 %, Green Notes .5 %

Fruity Green

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Jasmin 1 %, Vetiver


Jasmin 5 %

Middle

Violet 8 %, Rose 8 %, Carnation 2 %


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %
Amyl Salicylate 3 %
Base

Floral

Muguet 5 %, Vetiver 3 %
Musk 3 %
Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 1 %, Styrax 1 %
Moss - Trace, Patchouli 2 %, Opoponax .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 3 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Light Musk

Glen O. Brechbill

146

Floral Sweet # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

9
24
29
11
6
48
31
1
24
3
5
53
9
10
1
4
7
5
29
27
48
8
5
7
64
15
248
38
1
9
42
.1
36
8
.1
9

Styrax Mix - Oil


Patchouli Oil Substitute
Benzyl Alcohol FR
Alicate
Opoponax Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galaxolide Gx 50 % DPG
Mousse De Chenne
Benzyle Salicylate
Piperonyl Acetate
Cedrenyl Acetate
Super Cepionate
Hidroxicitronelal
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Rosalva
Methyl Phenyl Acetate
Traseolide
Eugenol
Amyl Salicylate
Vetiver Extender
Laurine - Givaudan
Citronellol
Super Cepionate
Lavender Oil 40/42
Geraniol 60
Carnation Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Hydroxycitronellol
Iso, Eugenol
Lyral
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Aldehyde C - 24 Pear
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Hexyl Salicylate
Orange Flower Abs.
Meijiff

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
10
.1
9
26
1
2
11
3
1
7
31
4
1
3
.1
2
1
4
.1
3
6

Amberwood
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
2, 6 Nonad 1 al Diethyl Acetal
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Linalol S 97
Cassia Chinese
Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal
Orange Flower Base
Vetiverol Extra
Rose Oil Type NF 17
Bourgenal
Linalyl Acetate
Aurantesein
Jasmophyll
Bergamot Oils
Neroli Oliffac
Eugenyl Acetate
Neryl Acetate
Rosilial Plus
Caraway Seed Essence
Santalex T - Neat
Iridales

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

147

Floral Sweet # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

9
28
8
11
47
29
3
21
18
1
6
33
1
6
9
3
15
38
6
9
17
3
5
8
15
6
8
325
51
3
33
48
25
3
14

Sandec Givco
Benzyl Alcohol FR
Di Hydro Coumarex
Styrax Clarified
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Ethylene Brassylate
Balsam Peru Oliffac
Benzyl Salicylate
Patchouly Light
Atralone
Opoponax Resinoid Washed
Vetivert Extender
Vanisal
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Sandalore
Eugenol
MDJ
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Rose For Soap Base
Vanilla Bean Tincture
Irone V
Citronellol
Hedione
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Lilial
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol 60
Iridales
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Salicylate DAmyle
Bois Amberene Forte
Linalool Synthetic

Fragrance Ingredient

9
.1
7
.1
5
48
3
1
2
.1
2
1
3
.1
1
2
11
6
27
1
.1
1
2
3
1

Orange Flower Base


Alcohol C - 9
Vetiver Oil Haiti
Ionone
Styrallyl Acetate
Muguet Base
Hydratropic Aldehyde
Vertifloreol
Tuberose Augaflor 25
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Genievre Baies Oil
Scennal
Caraway Oil
Rose Essence 193 D
Veraflor
Jamsonyl Acetate
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Myraldyl Acetate
Linalyl Acetate
Santal Blanc
Leaf Alcohol
Methyl Diantilis
Neryl Acetate
Florantone T
Cassia Oil - Fractions

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

148

Floral Sweet # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

9
7
16
6
28
.1
49
11
28
10
24
19
77
8
9
38
3
.1
27
1
6
13
1
2
9
335
14
23
1
4
1
66
1
23
.1

Musk Ketone
Patchone
Traseolide 700 Base
Opoponax Resinoid Washed
Benzyl Alcohol
Mousse De Metre
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Styrax Resinoid
Amyl Salicylate
Sandalwood Substitute
Musk 50 DEP
Iso E Super
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
a - Ionone
Amil Cinamico Aldeido
Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB 2040
Musk R - 1
Rose Oxide L
Vetivert Extender
Helioforte
Santalol
Meijiff
Iris Beurre Oil
Heliotropin
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Hydroxycitronellol
Rose for Soap Base
Florosia
Citronellol
Sandalo Olifac
Geraniol Extra
Tonkarinol
Linalool Coeur
Methyl Tuberate

Fragrance Ingredient

3
5
4
6
.1
23
1
.2
.1
35
3
1
13
5
6
7
3
.4
4
7
1
3

DMBC - Acetate
Orange Flower Base
Eugenol Ex Clove
Terpineol 318
Ylang Ylang Oil # 3
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Styrallyl Alcohol
Lily Aldehyde
Vanilla Resinoide - Jamaica
Linalyl Acetate
Sweet Pea
Laurinal
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Vetiverol Extra
Florantone T
Ionone Alpha Refined
Muguet Alcohol
Iso Rose
Massada
Orangeflor Deco
Aniba Roseodora
Persicol SA

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

149

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Floral Aldehydic

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC
Floral aldehydic compounds were discovered in the 19th century. Aldehydes have a powerful diffusive
effect, and are characterized by a rich opulent top note. In small parts certain aldehydes are used as a top note
effect simulating a variety of floral scents that are found in nature. Muguet or Lily of the Valley based on
Hydroxycitronellal is a popular example. Utilizing aldehydes provide modern accords with a richness and
depth. The first fine fragrance utilizing a large percentage of synthetic components was Chanel # 5 created by
Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel. Other sub groups can include woody and powdery notes that are a combination of Anisic Aldehyde, and Cedarwood Oil of Virginia.
Top

Bergamot 6 % - Dry
Orange Blossom 1 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Wardia 2 %

Floral Aldehydic

Cassis 1 %
Middle

Muguet 13 %
Jasmin 6 %, Ylang 2 %, Rose 4 % - Warm

Floral

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 %


Violet 9 %, Carnation 3 %, Nutmeg .5 %
Base

Musk 6 %
Sandalwood 1 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 %
Civet - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 31 %
Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Sweet Spicy

Glen O. Brechbill

150

Floral Aldehydic # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
43
29
9
48
9
24
17
9
62
109
1
7
3
4
22
27
4
23
4
1
75
1
20
.1
3
314
17
1
4
33
11
.1
1
9

Civet Base # 9
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Benzyl Benzoate
Cou Marin
Vanisal
Benzyl Salicylate
Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde
Sandela
Benzyle Acetate
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Damascenia
Vanillin, ethyl
Irisone Pure
Hidroxicitronelal
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Eugenol
Citronellol
Muguet Base
Javanol
Rosone
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Mallow
Geraniol
Vanilla Abs. CLess
Gardenia Acetal
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Iso Jasmone
alpha - Irone
Galaxolide Gx 50 % DEP
Orange Flower Base
Aldehyde C 11 - 11
Vanillyl Alcohol
Wardia - Firmenich

Fragrance Ingredient

6
.1
.1
1
1
.1
3
5
3
.1
4
2
1
5
3
.1
1
4
2
3
6
1
3
.1
1

Hydroxycitronellal A
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Rose Bulgare Oil
Helional
Gaultheria Southern FCC
Alcool C - 9
Orange C.P. & Sweet
Iso - Eugenol
Anisque Alcool
Jasmine Abs. - India
Galbanodor
Citroflor
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Soft Skin Accord - IFF
Methyl Jasmonate pure
Leaf Alcohol
Aldehyde Cortex 50
Floramat
Jasilyn
Alpha Ionone 60
Kephalis
Bourgeons
Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
Mallow
Citronica

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

151

Floral Aldehydic # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
44
.1
9
24
.1
11
3
48
63
10
.1
15
16
117
9
4
5
9
8
43
5
1
8
26
307
72
7
8
3
1
7
4
1
3

Sandalwood Substitute
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Base # 1
Iso E Super
Salicylate De Benzyle
Tallish Patro Resinoide
Benzyle Benzoate
Anisyl Alcohol
Coumane
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Laurine Extra
Oakmoss Givco 214
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Sandalmysore Core
Muguet Base
Methyl Ionone Alpha
Citronellol
alpha - Ionone
Meijiff
Vanillin
Geraniol 970
Lilivert
Musk Emeressence
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Ionone Intermediate Base
Vanillin, Ethyl
Lavender 40/42 %
Sweet Pea
Cyclogalbaniff
Vetiveryl Acetate
Phixia
Croton Fruit Oil
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

4
15
19
8
.1
4
.1
3
4
.1
2
5
3
4
1
2
1
.1
.3
8
4
.1

Apritone
Orange Flower Base
Geranyl Acetate
Bergamot Oil Na
Aldheyde C - 11 Lenic
Prunella
Aldehyde C 11 - 11
Cassis Fragrance
Nutmeg Oil Indonesia
Ylang Oil I Morocco
Orangeflor Deco
Tangerine Oil C.P. Florida
Kir Base # 9741
Florantone T
Peomosa
Vanilla Inco 3
Petilyn
Rose Templar
Leaf Alcohol
Geranyl Acetate Super FCC
Santalol
Iso Eugenol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

152

Floral Aldehydic # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

38
1
.1
24
7
43
6
44
9
6
11
4
58
13
104
10
1
4
.1
26
9
5
7
.1
65
11
316
3
3
.1
1
.1
10
28
17

Galaxolide 50
Ambrox DL Coeur
Civet Augaflor 6
Salicylate De Benzyl
Vanillina
Coumarin Substitute
Khoavone
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Serenolide
Hydrofix L
Benzyl Benzoate
Ethyl Vanisal
Benzyl Acetate
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Muguet Base
Ionone For Soap
Musk Tibetine
Iris Beurre Oil
Rose Crystals
Eugenol 98 % natural
Jasmin Province Base
Citronellol Coeur
Leeral
Musk Absolute
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Rose Substitute
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Citronellol Muguet 92 %
Vanilla Tincture 20 %
Neroline
Florisia
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Orange Flower Base
Geraniol
Linalyl Acetate Special

Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
4
.1
1
3
2
1
25
.3
17
.1
1
8
3
.1
1
1
3
1
9
4
1
1

p - Cresyl Acetate
Sandalore
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Neroli Morocco
Verdantol
Nutmeg Oil - Indonesia
Phenyl Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Vanilys
Linalol
Ylang # 1
Wardia
Alcohol C - 98
Ylang Ylang Substitute
Orange Oil of California
Sandalwood Oil Rectified India
Orange Flor Deco
Tuberose Oliffac
Cassis Fragrance
Massada
Carnaline
alpha - Ionone
Sandenol 208
Franboise 2222
Persicol

1,000

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153

Aranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC
Top

Bergamot 6 %
Pear 1 %, Rose 2 %, Cassis .5 %, Strawberry - Trace

Floral Aldehydic

Orange Flower 1 %
Middle

Lily of the Valley 11 %


Rose 4 %, Ylang Ylang 1.5 %, Jasmin 5 %

Floral

Nutmeg .5 %, Violet 10 %, Carnation 3 %


Base

Sandalwood 2 %
Musk 5 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 %
Civet - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Sweet Spicy

Glen O. Brechbill

154

Floral Aldehydic # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
43
29
9
48
9
24
17
9
62
109
1
7
3
4
22
27
4
23
4
1
75
1
20
.1
3
314
17
1
4
33
11
.1
1
9

Civet Base # 1
Di Ethyl Phthalate
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Benzyl Benzoate
Coumarin
Vanillin
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Benzyl Acetate
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Damascenia
Vanillin, ethyl
Irisone Pure
Hidroxicitronelal
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Eugenol
Citronellol
Muguet Base
Sandela
Rose Crystals
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Mallow
Geraniol 98 %
Vanilla Bean Clair
Gardenia Acetal
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Jasmone Iso
alpha - Irone
Galaxolide Gx 50 % DEP
Orange Flower Base
Aldehyde C 11 - 11
Vanillyl Alcohol
Wardia

Fragrance Ingredient

6
.1
.1
1
1
.1
3
5
3
.1
4
2
1
5
3
.1
1
4
2
3
6
1
3
.1
1

Hydroxycitronellal 55
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Rose Bulgare Oil
Alicate
Gaultheria Southern FCC
Alcool C - 10
Orange C.P. & Sweet
Iso - Eugenol
Anisque Alcool
Jasmine Abs. - India
Galbanodor
Citroflor
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Iso Amyl Gernate
Methyl Jasmonate
Leaf Alcohol
Aldehyde Cortex 50
Floramat
Jasilyn
Alpha Ionone 60
Kephalis
Bourgeons
Geranyl Acetate Pure - IFF
Biflor
Citronica

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

155

Floral Aldehydic # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

62
47
9
.1
11
34
8
1
33
11
3
111
3
12
1
3
77
9
4
11
32
20
.1
4
20
.1
323
13
22
1
.2
4
.1
1

Ethylene Brassylate
Coumarin Substitute
Benzyle Salicylate
Rosalva
Sandalwood Oil Australian
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanillin
Beta Damascone
Benzyl Acetate
Rose For Soap Base
Heliotropine
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Aspic Espagne
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Dupical
Eugenol
Iraldiene Standard Substitute
Lilial
Ethyl Vanillin
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Geraniol
MDJ
Syringa
Citronellol Pure
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Eugenol / Clove
Bonorax
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Nutmeg Oil - India
Nonadienal
Lime Oil Roses Type

Fragrance Ingredient

34
1
.1
15
.4
4
1
6
20
.6
1
3
.1
1
6
8
3
.1
.1
1
3
1

Linalol S 97
Carnaline
Black Tea Extract
Orange Blossom Base
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Lavender Population
Geraniol - ex Plmarosa Oil
Bourgenal
Linalyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Caraway Oil
Ionone 100 %
Celery Essence
Rose Oil Templar
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Neroli Artessence
Bergamal
Undecatriene
Leaf Alcohol
Fruitline AB876
Bourgenal
Mallow

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

156

Floral Aldehydic # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

42
1
7
11
46
.1
3
8
1
12
128
63
.1
16
9
85
22
4
6
3
9
11
21
8
1
309
.1
4
.1
3
55
1
.1
1
29
4

Di Ethyl Phthalate
Benzophenone
Cashmeran
Benzyl Salicylate
Coumane
Civet # 3 S - 788
Piperonyl Acetate
Vanillin
Anisyl Alcohol
Sandec Givco 220
Muguet Base
Benzyle Acetate
Rosa Damascena
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Phenylethylalcohol
Ionone Intermediate Base
Eugenol
Ethyl, Vanillin
Citronellol
Ionone Alpha
Ylang Ylang Substitute
Hedione
Geraniol 98
Lyral
Orris Oil
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Carrot Weed Oil
Tuberose Substitute
Lichen
Safraleine
Galaxolide 50 Gx in DEP
Tuberose Oliffac
Alcool C - 8
Undecatriene
Linalool
Nutmeg Oil India

Fragrance Ingredient

3
2
.1
6
4
3
5
2
17
7
5
.1
4
5
1
2
.1
3
3
.1
1
1
3

Muguet Aldehyde 50
Florantone T
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Cassis Fragrance
Iso Jasmone B - 11
Orangeflor
Fir Needle Silver
Neroli Oliffac
Linalyl Acetate
Nerol
Orange Flower Base
Violet Leaf
Wardia - Firmenich
Alpha Iso Methyl Ionol Acetate
Bergamot, C. P. Guinea
Zingerone
Iridales
Vetiveryl Acetate Java
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Leaf Acetal
Cyclorose
Feuillage Vert Base
Neryl Acetate

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

157

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

FLORAL ALDEHYDIC
Top

Orange Blossom 1 %
Ylang Ylang .5 %, Wardia 2 %, Cassis .5 %

Floral Aldehydic

Bergamot 6 % - Dry
Middle

Muguet 11 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 % Rose 3 %, Ylang Ylang 2 %, Jasmin 5 %


Nutmeg .5 %, Violet 10 %, Carnation 3 %
Base

Sandalwood 2 %
Musk 5 %, Tonka 5 %, Vanilla 1.5 %
Civet - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Floral

Glen O. Brechbill

158

Floral Aldehydic # 3a
Fragrance Ingredient

57
5
8
.1
11
34
4
5
49
5
44
.1
11
4
6
21
76
17
6
9
.1
23
1
319
3
17
8
12
9
83
5
1
9
4

Traseolide 700 Base


Picca Mariana
Vanisal
Civettone
Sandalwood Substitute
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyle Salicylate
Tonka Feve Resinoide
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Musk Emeressence
Acetate De Benzyle
Vanilla Tincture
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Sandalwood Oil
Ethyl Vanillin
Eugenol
Muguet Base
Ionone Alpha
Citronellol
Iso Jasmone
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Rose For Soap Base
Cassia Oliffac
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Pepperwood
Geraniol
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Hydroxycitronellol
Laurine Extra
Ionone Intermediate Base
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Perryfix - CA
Orange Blossom Base
Nutmeg Indonesia

Fragrance Ingredient

8
.3
6
1
3
15
34
21
4
2
1
.4
3
.1
1
.3
18
1
3
.6
3
1

Wardia - Firmenich
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade )
Trimentina
Orafleur
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Linalool
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Tuberose Oliffac
Bourgeons De Cassis
Orange Bitter
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Lysmeral
Nonadienal
Ylang Heart No. 3
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Linalyl Acetate
Florymoss
Orangeflor Deco
Tangerine Oil CP Florida
Nerol Petals
Freesia

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

159

Floral Aldehydic # 3b
Fragrance Ingredient

9
11
7
34
15
.1
12
47
51
4
1
6
5
18
33
1
4
53
1
12
5
6
14
103
.1
105
308
14
1
1

Vanillin
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Kephalis
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Osyrol
Alpha Damascone
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Rhodiascent Extra pure
Benzyl Acetate
Cashmeran
Florymoss
Ethyl Vanisal
Sandol - SA
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Carnation Base
Balsam Peru Oliffac
Di Hydro Coumarex
Galaxolide Gx in 50 % DEP
Hydroxy Extra
Rose Substitute
Anisic Aldehyde
Citronellol
Hedione
Ionone Intermediate Base
Rosalva
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Di Propileno Glico
Geraniol 80
Iso - Eugenol
Cedraclaire

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
5
4
7
.1
.1
1
.4
6
3
41
.1
1
.1
.1
1
10
.1
23
.4
3
5
1
4
1
.1
1

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Bergamot Africa
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Lyral
Folione
Ligustral
Geranium Oil African
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Nutmeg Oil East Indian
Linalol
Violetleaves
Applitone
Alcohol C - 08
Rose Bourbon Abs.
Galbanodor CG
Orange Blossom Base
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Linalyl Acetate
Rose Summer Damask
Cassis Fragrance
Dupical
Lavender 50/52 %
Nerol
Vamba
Geraniol 600
Massada

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

160

Floral Aldehydic # 3c
Fragrance Ingredient

62
47
9
.1
11
34
8
1
33
11
3
111
3
12
1
3
77
9
4
11
32
20
.1
4
20
.1
323
13
22
1
.2
4
.1
1

Galaxolide 50
Coumarin Pure
Benzyl Salicylate
Polarose
Sandalwood Oil East Indian
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanillin
Delta Damascone
Benzyl Acetate
Rose For Soap Base
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Hydroxycitronellal Substitute
Aspic Espagne
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Dupical
Eugenol / Clove
Iraldiene Standard Substitute
Lilial
Ethyl Vanisal
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Geraniol
Benzyl Acetate
The
Citronellol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Eugenol / Clove
Petilyn
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Nutmeg Oil - India
Nonadienal
Kaffir Lime

Fragrance Ingredient

34
1
.1
15
.4
4
1
6
20
.6
1
3
.1
1
6
8
3
.1
.1
1
3
1

Linalol S 97
Methyl Diantilis
Black Tea Extract
Orange Blossom Base
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Lavender Oil - France
Geraniol - ex Plmarosa Oil
Cassis Fragrance
Linalyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Caraway Oil
Ionone 100 %
Celery Essence
Rose Oil Templar
Zeppin
Neroli Artessence
Bergamal
Undecatriene
Leaf Alcohol
Fruitline AB876
Bourgenal
Mallow

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

161

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Chypre Floral

CHYPRE FLORAL
Keeping this concept true to form the rose is used as a dominate theme. In my book titled, A Reference
Book On Fragrances I have a sub division that lists over 200 rose materials. Also used is a Gardenia accord
that can be artificially recreated using a Jasmin rose theme with Styrallyl Acetate as a predominate green note.
Top
Triplal .5 %

Bergamot 4 % - Fruity
Green Notes - Trace, Jasmin

Citrus

Undecavertol - Trace, Lavender .5 %, Apple 1 %


Middle
Peonile 1 %
Iso E Super 3 %
HCA4%
Base

Violet 7 %
Muguet 6 %, Jasmin 7 %, Hawthorn 2.5 %

Floral

Argumex 2 %, Gardenia 1 %, Rose 6 % - Sweet


Sandalwood .5 %
Musk 3 %, Galbanum 1 %, Moss - Trace
Patchouli - Trace, Okumal - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 34 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

162

Chypre Floral # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

8
27
1
22
33
1
9
.1
13
35
7
14
42
9
3
.1
24
38
26
5
15
1
18
1
345
54
71
1
55
4
9
.1
3
.1

Sandela
Iso & Super
Oakmoss Givco 214
Benzyl Salicylate
Galaxolide Gx 50 in DEP
Mousse De Chenne
Galbanum Colourless A
Civet Powder # 1A
Alicate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Gardenia Fleuriff
Peonile
Hedione
Gardenia Base
Styrax Extra
Rose Crystals
Aubepine
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Benzyl Acetate
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinol
Citronellol
Florymoss
Jasmin Province Base
Anisyl Acetone
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Liral
Geraniol
Sage Clary
Ionone Intermediate Base
Mayol
Amyl Salicylate
Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylenic
Verdantiol
Rose Otto Bulgaria

Fragrance Ingredient

17
2
1
9
6
14
1
.1
9
1
1
3
1
.1
.3
4
23
9
.1
3
1
.1
1
1

Argumen Aldehyde Substitute


cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Geranyl Acetate
Phenylethylalcohol
Triplal
Linalool Special 99 %
Hydroxyciol
Rose - Saudi Arabia
Verdox
Methyl Jasmonate
Styrallyl Acetate
Ionone Alpha
Meranol
Undecavertol
Bois De Cedre Texas
Iso Amyl Geranate
Linalyl Acetate
Lavender Tasmanian
Methyl Tuberate
Apple Oliffac
Tangerinol
Leaf Alcohol
Cyclogalbonate
Iso - Eugenol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

163

Chypre Floral # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

1
32
3
.1
4
35
9
11
14
1
11
75
5
2
9
68
4
8
11
12
36
23
5
9
338
15
34
3
5
8
33
1
3
2
6
.1
53

Okumal
Iso E Super
Sandalore
Evernyl
Patchouli Oil F 867
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galbanum Resinoide
Benzyl Salicylate
Laurine
Vanilla Bean Clair
Peonile
Super Cepionate
Osyrol
Javanol
Lilial
Ionone For Soap Base
Methyl Para Cresole
Citronellol 750
Iso Amyl Geranate
Gardenia Base
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Aubepine
Geranyl Acetate
Lavende Verte
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Geraniol
Anisalcohol
Lyral
Ionone Alpha 60
Galaxolide 50
Poirinate
Galbanodor
Berryflor
Triplal
Alcohol C - 9
Muguet Base

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
114
5
.1
.1
.1
11
1
4
27
.1
3
5
.1
3
1
8
3
5
.1
.1

Rose Oil Otto Bulgaria


Linalol ( Perfumery Grade )
DMBC - Acetate
Undecavertol
Jasmine India Absolute
Geraniol 600
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Sur Fleurs doranger Oil
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Linalyl Acetate
Folione
Apple Oliffac
Florhydral
Leaf Alcohol
Neroli Bigarad
Styrallyl Acetate
Tangerine, Florida
Nerol
Top Galbanum 18.326 SAB
Methyl Tuberate
Geranio Bourbon

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

164

Chypre Floral # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

33
9
35
1
17
4
7
35
.1
2
18
1
12
63
1
71
64
33
58
11
57
.1
6
14
321
3
1
4
11
3
1
3
.1
10
1

Iso E Super
Top Galbanum 18.326
Phthalate DEthyle
Mousse De Metre
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Patchouli Oil Light
Sandalwood Synthetic
Musk 50 DEP
Anisylalcohol
Javanol
Gardenia Base
Heliotropine
Peonile
Hydroxycitronellol
Gardenia Acetal
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Ionone For Soap
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Geraniol 970
Anisque Aldehyde
Ionone Intermediate Base
Parmavert
Citronellol 750
Argumen
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Methyl Jasmonate
Benzophenone
Freesia
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Mallow
Perryfix
Sandalwood Oliffac
Aldeido C - 8
Linalool Synthetic FCC
Muguet Aldheyde 50 BB

Fragrance Ingredient

3
4
.1
5
1
1
11
.1
3
.1
3
5
2
27
1
4
.2
1
.1
1
3
3
.1
1

Geranyl Formate
Triplal
Folione
Lavender 48/50 %
Orris Inco 2
cis - Jasmone
Verdox
Vert de Cassis Givco 180
Apritone
Undecaverto
Citronet
Nerol Pure
Begamont
Linalyl Acetate
Pamplemousse
Allyl Amyl Glycolate 97 %
Neroli Bigarade Oil
Stemone
Germacrene DNatural 40 % PC 192
Iris Givco 204/2
Sweet Orange Oil
Applinal
Cis - 3 - Hexenol
Florymoss - Givaudan

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

165

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Chypre Fresh

CHYPRE FRESH
The term fresh is open to a wide variety of interpretations. Fresh can be floral directed having its origins
in many different flowers, and of course with citrus top note components. With time this term has become
increasingly generic in its use.
Top

Bergamot 6 % Dry
Jasmin 1 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Grape .5 %, Woody Notes .5 %

Fresh

Green Notes, Carnation


Middle

Jasmin 8 %
Violet 9 %, Carnation 2 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet

Floral

Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye 2.5 % Vetiver 5 %, Muguet 2.5 %, Lavender .5 %
Base

Tonka 3 %
Patchouli 2 %, Sandalwood 4 %, Moss - Trace
Musk 2 %, Opoponax - Trace, Olibanum - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Woody

Glen O. Brechbill

166

Chypre Fresh # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
19
10
34
3
4
42
16
5
11
8
35
77
14
23
4
73
59
16
3
1
39
8
8
318
3
1
2
6
1
.1
4
3
6
2

Evernyl
Patchouli Indonesian Light
Benzyl Alcohol
Coumane
Olibanum Resinoid
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galaxolide Artessence
Opoponax Base
Benzyl Salicylate
Meijiff
Sandalwood Extender
Acetato Benzila
Hidroxicitronelal
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Endro Estragao
Ionone Intermediate Base
Geraniol
Carnation Base
Levanalis
Sandalwood Oliffac
Vetiver Extender
Citronellol
Irisone Bis
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Roseone
Veraflor
Koavonne
Anisyl Alcohol
Undecavertol
Geranyl Acetate
Nutmeg India
Amyl Salicylate
Guaiyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

8
11
4
6
29
4
.1
1
7
1
2
9
1
3
1
20
14
9
6
.1
.1
5
3
.1
.3

Methyl Anthranilate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Carnation Augaflor 51
Menthanyl Acetate
Linalool 97 %
DMBC - Acetate
Alcohol C - 9
Styrallyl Acetate
Ylang Ylang Substitute
Pearlate
Vetiveryl Acetate
Aurantiol Pure
p - Cresyl Acetate
Petilyn
Bois Amberene Forte
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Ionone Alpha
Lyral
Myraldyl Acetate
Carnaline
Leaf Alcohol
Empetal
Jasmonyl
Ionone
Phelandrone

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

167

Chypre Fresh # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

28
14
9
1
22
3
44
2
6
9
25
45
6
1
5
74
12
3
7
34
25
19
3
65
4
47
1
316
1
3
44
9
3
.1
2
5

Coumarin Substitute
Cashmeran
Benzyl Alcohol double distilled
Evernyl
Salicylate De Benzyle
Opoponax Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Olibanum Resinoid 50 % / DPG
Galbanum Resinoide
Acetate Iso Eugenol
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Rose Base
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Jacinthe 127 SA
Citronellol
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Eugenol
Di Methyl Octanol
Kephalis
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Galaxolide Gx in DEP
Patchouli natural & std. Oil
Lyral
Geraniol 60
Hydroxyciol
Vetiver Extender
Santalol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Helioforte
Tangerine - Mexico
Sandalwood Substitute
Lavender Oliffac
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Alcool C - 8
Valarian
Geranyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

.2
1
4
25
.1
11
4
.1
1
3
2
.1
1
.1
5
3
.1
2
.1
37
3
1
.1
1

Methyl Tuberate Pure


Dianthanol
Grape Base
Linalool
Octyl Acetate
Ylang Ylang Substitute
Muguesia
Bha
Girofle Griffex
Cedrenyl Acetate
Scennal
Rosa
Mountain Savory
Ylang
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Jasmonyl Acetate
Fleur DOranger Vert De 115SA
White Graperuit Israel Oil
Rose 1892
Linalyl Acetate
Bourgenal
Sandel, Asia
Rose Oxide R
Vanillin

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

168

Chypre Fresh # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

19
9
28
1
37
42
24
3
.1
11
1
4
19
26
14
.1
6
3
22
5
45
9
13
1
11
24
309
.1
83
45
24
1
9
4
1

Patchouli Oil MD
Benzyl Alcohol
Coumarin Substitute
Lichen
Sandalwood Extender
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Galaxolide 50
Brahmanol
Vanilla Absolute
Salicylate Amila
Opoponax Resinoid
Sanjinol
Benzyl Salicylae
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Benzyl Salicylate
Alcohol C - 8
Alpha - Ionol
Musk Gazalle
Citronellol
Orris Oil
Geraniol
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Damascenia Base
Opoponax Resinoid Washed
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Carnation Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Ravensare
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Vetiver Extender
Lilial
Acetate Styralyle
Aurantiol pure
Neryl Acetate
Phyllos

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
1
.3
23
.1
3
5
3
.1
39
.1
3
5
2
1
2
1
4
3
.1
33
4
3
6
4

Bitter Orange Sicily Essence


Ethyl Geranate
Ionone
Linalol S97
Tea Green
Gyrane
Methyl Jasmonate
Scennal
Violiff
Linalyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 10
Rodinol Sweet
Citronet
Lindentree
Petilyn
Orange Oils Dark
Thyme, White
Nerol 97
Cananga
Undecatriene 10 %
Ionone Alpha 60
Rose Acetal
Mandarinal
Methyl Anthranilate
Iso, Eugenol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

169

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FRESH
White Vineyard Peach 4 %

Top

Pear 1 %, Violet Leaves - Trace, Bergamot - Italian 6 % Fruity

Fresh Fruity

Mandarin Yellow 3 %, Orange Flower Abs. - Trace


Ylang Ylang 3 %
Middle
Rose 9 % - Sweet, Sir Paul Smith Rose .5 %, Violet 5 %

Floral

Vetiver 2 %
Reseda 1 %, Muguet 6 %, Jasmin 8 %
Base

Patchouli 3 %
Sandalwood 3 %, Moss - Trace, Vanilla 3 %
Tonka 1 %, Benzoin .5 %, Leather .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

170

Chypre Fresh # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

22
.1
.1
28
15
41
5
3
29
4
.1
5
15
1
22
3
6
9
1
4
8
1
13
5
312
53
11
78
2
57
71
9
.1
24
5
.1

Patchouli Oil T 871


Civet
Evernyl
Sandela
Vanisal
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
Cedryl Acetate Liquid
Benzylsalicylate
Di Isopropyl Phenol
Chharla
Brahmanol
Ethyl Vanillin
Adoxal
Vetiver Extender
Balsam Peru Oil
Javanol
Hydroxyciol
Leather LWS - 3768
Reseda Body
Citronellol750
Nyctanthes
Rose For Soap Base
Jasmorange F
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Geraniol 98 %
Beta Ionyl Acetate
Muguet Base
Hedione
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Alcohol C - 08
Mandarin Oil Yellow C.P.
Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
Cassia rectified

Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
34
1
1
5
24
1
1
2
.1
3
57
1
.1
4
9
.1
4
2
.2
1

Geranyl Acetate
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Peacharoma Base
Heptone
Santallyl Acetate
Orange Flower Base
Linalool
Serenolide
Neroline
Iso Amyl Geranate
Methyl Octine Carbonate Substitute
Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Benzoate
Neroli Blossom Water
Lilial
White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan
Ylang Eco Essence
Lavender Oil Clonal
Ionone Alpha
Leaf Alcohol
Meranol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

171

Chypre Fresh # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

8
1
44
17
35
29
1
25
2
13
6
2
5
19
27
12
3
68
13
14
.1
25
7
3
18
25
74
327
5
9
1
.1
28
.1
4
3

Benzoin Siam Resinoid


Oakmoss Givco
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanilina
Benzylsalicylate
Sandalwood Extender
Cedryl Acetate
Patchouly Madagascar
Benzophenone
Di Iso Propyl Phenol
Green Ivy Givco 168
Suderal LT
Serenolide
Vetiver Extender
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Vanillin, Ethyl
Heliotropinone
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Benzyle Acetate
Citronellol
Vanilla Absolute
Ionone Alpha
Terpineol
Rose Oil Templar
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Geraniol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Reseda Body
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Musk Emeressence
Alcohol C - 9
Mandarin Italian
Irone V
Sir Paul Smith Rose - Givaudan
Amyl Salicylate

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
1
3
2
5
.1
1
3
1
.1
35
1
3
.1
.1
1
3
2
11
1
.1
4
.1

Orange Flower Base


Anapear
Suderal HT - IFF
Ultrazur
Geranyl Acetate
Orange Flor Deco
Cassis Fragrance
Geranodyle
cis - 3 - Hexanol
Sandalwood Essence
Aldehyde C - 14
Calendula Oil
Jasmonyl Acetate
Folione
Bergamot Eco Essence
Anapear
Nerol Coeur
Phyllos
Alil Amil Glicato
Petilyn
Rose Riviera
Laurine Extra
Vertocinth

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

172

Chypre Fresh # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

5
29
42
25
32
.1
.1
1
3
1
4
3
1
24
2
6
75
17
1
8
63
29
24
4
15
314
9
.1
4
.1
22
54
28
2
4
18

Benzoin Siam Resinoid


Patchouli Oil MD
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanillin
Sandela
Mousse De Chenne
Rose Oxide L
Glycolierral
Cedryl Acetate 50 %
Anisyl Alcohol
Reseda Body
English Leather Base
Methyl Benzoate
Vetiver Extender
Hawthorn
Rosenol Synthetic
Acetate De Benzila
Ethyl Vanisal
Damascenia 185 SA
Hidroxicitronelal
Geraniol
Ylang Ylang Substitute
Ionone Alpha 60
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Rose Substitute
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Citronellol Pure
2 - Undecanone
Laurine Extra
Alcohol C - 8
Linalool
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Massada
Meranol
Methyl Ionone Gamma

Fragrance Ingredient

11
8
26
.2
1
.1
3
5
.1
6
4
3
4
3
11
1
1
4
.1
.1
1
38

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol


Vertofix Coeur
Mandarin Oil - South Africa
Pepperwood
Birch Sweet Canada
Undecavertol
Anapear
Argumex hc
Rose Blossom Pentanol
Tangerine Oil - Florida
Nerol
Orange Flower Base
Pearlate
Lindestrene
White Vienyard Peach - Givaudan
Bergamote Cote dIvoire
Bergamot Oil Calabrian Finest
Geranyl Acetate
Leaf Acetal
Violet Leaves
Iso Jasmone
Linalyl Acetate

1,000

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173

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Chypre Fruity

CHYPRE FRUITY
This concept is characterized by a predominate fruitiness often having a peach like fragrance. It is more
pronounced in this group having components that are inherent to this family.
Top

Apple 3 %
Bergamot 8 %, Lime 4 %, Tangerine 2 %

Fruity

Peach 1 %
Middle

Jasmin 8 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %


Methyl Cedryk Ketone 1 %

Rose 14 %, Lilac 6 %, Hawthorn 1 %

Floral

Muguet 2 %, Argumen 1 %
Base

Musk 10 %
Cedar 1, % Sandalwood 1 %
Moss - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Animalic

Glen O. Brechbill

174

Chypre Fruity # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
93
9
35
14
8
3
22
4
1
65
9
4
3
10
22
1
5
9
58
7
4
2
1
294
7
91
3
.1
1
3
8
4
.1
10
17

Moss Oliffac
Galaxolide Artessence
Osyrol
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Coumane
Cedarwood Oil Virginia
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Benzylsalicylate
Sandalore
Rosone
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Argumen Substitute
Cycrohexylethylacetate
Florhydral
Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde )
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Terpineol Prime
Citronellol
Florhydral
Di Methyl Octanol
Meijiff
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
alpha - Ionone
Geraniol
Jasilyn
Rose Templar
Glycolierral
Tropical Jasmine
Apple Juice Givco 204/2
Jasmin Egypt
Aldehyde C - 11 Undecylenic
Hexyl Salicylate
Verdox

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
.1
8
6
11
29
4
9
.3
.1
3
8
4
1
9
43
2
3
29
5
2
.1

Alcohol C - 9
Lime Essence
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Tangerinol
Di Ethyl Malonate
Linalool
Ocimene PQ
Lime Oil Distilled Mexican
Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric
Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
Bergamot Oil - Italy
Hydroxyciol
Methyl Diantilis
Phenylethylacetate
Menthanyl Acetate
Linalyl Acetate
Perryfix
Hysimal
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Vetyralia 3562 P
Top Muguet
Alpha Damascone

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

175

Chypre Fruity # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
22
9
1
.1
73
35
10
9
3
1
8
5
22
4
7
75
10
9
14
2
1
3
8
9
35
297
5
67
28
11
.1
26
.1
1
.1
4

Santalex T Neat
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Coumarin
Mousse De Chenne
Civet Artificial IA
Galaxolide Artessence
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Indonesian Light
Aubepine
Scennal
Cedro ( Folha )
Hyacinth Base
Florhydral
Hexil Cinamico Aldeido
Sandalwood Oliffac
Cedarwood Oil ( Indian )
bEnzyl Acetate
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Argumen Substitute
Citronellol - High Purity
Lindenol
Methyl tuberate Pure
Di Methyl Octanol
Rose Substitute
Lilial
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Lyral
Geraniol 60
Lilac Base
Hexyle Salicylate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Apple Juice 600
Black Tea Extract
Iso Damascone
Rose Abs. Maroc
Armoise Maroc

Fragrance Ingredient

5
.1
13
.1
4
9
3
26
.1
33
.1
1
.1
1
1
19
1
47
1
1
.1
3
5
1

Floramelon
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Lavender Citrus Base
Violet Leaf Abs.
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Fresh Apple - Sweet Note
Persicol SA
Dimetol
Nonadienal
Linalool
Rose Blossom Pentanol
Vanilla Bean Tincture
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Tangerinol
Applinal
Tangerine Oil C.P.
Scennal
Linalyl Acetate
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Apritone
Leaf Alcohol
Methyl Jasmonate
Citrus Bergamia
Meranol

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

176

Chypre Fruity # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

4
8
1
2
75
14
33
1
22
9
3
58
4
21
3
9
12
10
55
4
15
5
103
1
1
.1
302
3
26
7
.2
.1
.3
31

Cedrenyl Acetate
Brahmanol
Oakmoss Givco 214
Ambarine - Synarome
Galaxolide Artessence
Coumarin pure
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Rose Crystals
Benzylsalicylate
Laurine Extra
Javanol
Acetate De Benzila
Melfloral
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Sandalwood Oliffac
Aubepine
Argumen Substitute
Methyl Cedryl Ketone ( Vetamber )
Terpineol Prime
Citronellol
Jasmin Province Base
Ionone Alpha 60
Geraniol 98 %
Cashmeran
Styrax REsinoide
Alcohol C - 9
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Ivor Corps
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Carnation Leaves Essence
Rose Otto
Linalol Synthetic

Fragrance Ingredient

3
6
.3
2
1
47
19
6
11
8
4
7
9
.8
23
2
.1
1
3
1
.1
2
1

Apple Juice Givco 223


Bergamot Oil - Italian
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Berryflor
Iralia
Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
Dimetol
Geranyl Acetone
Verdox
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Vanilla Beans
Lime Oil, distilled
Di Ethyl Malonate
Styrallyl Acetate
Tangerine Oil - Florida
Gelsol F
Ethyl 2 Methyl Butyrate
Syringa Aldehyde
Petilyn
Apple Oliffac
Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
Silvial
Nerol

1,000

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177

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FRUITY
Top

Vanoris 3 %

Bergamot 6 % - Fruity, Petitgrain 1 %, Lemon 7 %


Fleuramone - Trace
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate - Trace
Basil 2 %
Extrovert High Impact - Trace
Rose Nitrile - Trace
Jasmine 11 %
Middle
Tilanol 3 %, Rose 7 % - Sweet, Violet 2 %
Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Verotyl 3 %, Argumen 1 %, Cyclomyral 1 %
Vertenex 3 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Iso E Super 4 %
Base
Vanilla 1 %, Tonka .5 %, Spruce Oil 2 %
Fir Needle Oil 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Fruity

Floral

Warm Woody

Glen O. Brechbill

178

Chypre Fruity # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

6
3
10
1
7
24
41
1
.1
22
10
2
4
68
2
34
9
3
52
29
.4
11
18
287
27
.1
9
6
7
35
27
1
.1
.2
10
23
.3

Coumarin pure
Heliotropine
Benzyl Alcohol
Rose Crystals
Vanillin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Iso E Super
Sandalwood Oliffac
Orcinyl 3
Benzyl Saliyclate
Ionoen Alpha White Coeur
Fleuranone
Ethyl Vanisal
Hedione
Toscanol
IBCH - Acetate ( Vertenex )
Cyclomyral
Methyl Octalactone
Geraniol Pur
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Meijiff
Rose For Soap Base
Methyl Ionone
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Tilanol Super
Vanillyl Absolute
Lilial
Citronellol
Floralmelon
Linalyl Acetate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Neroli Egypt
Aldehyde C 11 - 11
Applinal
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Linalol
Rose Nitrile

Fragrance Ingredient

6
28
.1
.2
67
9
.1
25
.2
10
16
1
11
4
1
3
.1
1
4
1
.1
5
3
1

Petitgrain Paraguay
Iso Nonyl Acetate
Floral Water Rose
Spearmint Oil
Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free )
Verdyl Acetate
Cyclovertal
Verotyl
Extrovert High Impact
Fir Douglas
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Ionone Alpha REfined
Verdyl Propionate
Iso Methyl Cedyl Ketone A
Jamaica Oil
Tangerine Oil Florida
Basil Commores Essence
Amyris Oil - Haiti
Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
Meranol
Bulgaflor
Nerol
Trepanol
Iso - Eugenol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

179

Chypre Fruity # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

5
3
10
1
7
25
31
1
.1
22
10
2
1
71
2
34
9
3
50
29
.4
13
18
300
27
.1
9
3
7
38
24
1
.1
.2

Coumarin pure
Heliotropine
Benzyl Alcohol
Rose Crystals
Vanillin
( DEP )
Iso E Super
Sandalwood Oliffac
Lichen
Benzyl Saliyclate
Ionoen Alpha Refined
Fleuranone
Ethyl Vanisal
Benzyl Acetate
Toscanol
IBCH - Acetate ( Vertenex )
Cyclomyral
Methyl Octalactone
Geraniol 60
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Laurine
Rose For Soap Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Tilanol Super
Vanillyl Absolute
Lyrame
Citronellol
Melfloral
Linalyl Acetate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Neroli Egypt
Aldehyde C 11 Lenic
Perryfix

Fragrance Ingredient

7
26
.3
6
18
.1
.2
77
9
.1
22
.2
10
19
1
11
4
1
3
.1
1
4
1
.1
5
3
1

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol


Linalol
Rose Nitrile
Petitgrain Paraguay
Iso Nonyl Acetate
Floral Water Rose
Spearmint Oil
Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free )
Verdyl Acetate
Cyclovertal
Verotyl
Extrovert High Impact
Fir Douglas
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Ionone
Verdyl Propionate
Iso Methyl Cedyl Ketone A
Jasilyn
Tangerine Oil Brazil
Basil Commores Essence
Amyris Oil - Haiti
Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
Meranol
Bulgaflor
Nerol
Trepanol
Iso - Eugenol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

180

Chypre Fruity# 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

6
3
10
2
7
24
40
3
.1
22
8
1
4
68
3
34
9
5
52
27
.4
9
6
306
27
.1
5
6
7
37
27
1
.1
.2
10
21
.3

Coumarin pure
Heliotropine
Benzyl Alcohol
Rose Crystals
Vanillin
Phthalate (DEP)
Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Sandalwood Oliffac
Orcinyl 3
Benzyl Saliyclate
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Fleuranone
Ethyl Vanisal
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Toscanol
Vertenex
Cyclomyral
Alicate
Geraniol 60
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Meijiff
Rose For Soap Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Tilanol Super
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Mallow
Citronellol 850
Melfloral
Linalyl Acetate
Jasphene
Neroli Egypt
Aldehyde C 11 - 11
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Linalool
Rose Inactive

Fragrance Ingredient

6
28
.1
.2
67
9
.1
25
.2
10
16
1
11
4
1
3
.1
1
4
1
.1
5
3
1

Petitgrain Paraguay
Vanoris
Rose Orient
Spearmint Oil
Lemon Oil ( Euro Coumarin Free )
Verdyl Acetate
Cyclovertal
Verotyl
Extrovert High Impact
Fir Douglas
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Ionone
Verdyl Propionate
Sandalore
Florymoss
Tangerinol
Basil Commores Essence
Amyris Oil - Haiti
Muguet Aldehyde 50 BB
Meranol
Bulgaflor
Nerol
Trepanol
Iso - Eugenol

1,000

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181

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Musk, Animalic Fragrance Chemicals

Abalide
Ambargris

Ambergris T Oliffac
Ambrain
Ambrette Ess. Beurre Lave
Ambrette C
Ambrette XNM
Ambrettex
Ambrettolide
Ambrinol
A C A Di Methyl Acetal
Amyl Phenyl Acetate
Angelic Root Oil
Animalic 9143
Animalone

Sweet musk similar to tonalid.


A healing panacea made from large chunks of ambergris only when
they are found by fisherman floating on the Atlantic Ocean. A scent
so beautiful and popular in Morocco that it inspired John Singer
Sargent to paint his famous La Furnee d'Ambergris.
A substitute for the traditional 3 % tincture of ambergris.
Labdanum musk.
A delicate sweet musk fragrance.
Sweet musk.
Sweet, but heavy floral musky odor.
Musk.
Floral musky sweet odor.
Extremely powerful amber with natural somewhat musky.
Peculiar animal green odor.
Sweet musk animal odor.
Pleasantly aromatic a mixture of musk.
Animal.
Musk.

Benzyl Phenyl Acetate

Mild sweet honey floral.

Castaulon
Castorium Hyper Abs.
Cashmeran
Celestolid
Civet Abs. 394 BF
Civet AAB394
Civet AB422A
Civet Abs. 394 BF
Civet Artificial I.A.
Civet Artificial XBS
Civet Augaflor 6

Warm, intense fatty hairy animal odor.


Very powerful warm animal like scent.
Diffusive musk.
Mild, and sweet musky odor.
An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor.
Fine substitute of the original absolute.
Excellent reconstitution long lasting.
An extremely powerful obnoxious animal like fecal odor.
Lacks the characteristic softness which is found with powder.
Obnoxiously strong fecal odor.
Strong, long lasting civet-like specialty, unmistakably animal with
a woody background. A good economical reproduction of the

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Glen O. Brechbill

182

Civette 170 BSA


Civettone
Copaiba Oil
Cyclo Penta De Canolide

original and possesses good fixative properties. May be used to


advantage in toiletries where the price of the natural material
precludes use.
A very sweet slightly cloying fecal odor of the abyssinian cat.
Strong acidic animal, fecal tone invaluable in fine fragrances.
Musky odor extremely diffusive and tenacious.
A glandular secretion collected from primarily male cats. In small
traces adds a velvety touch to many different fine bouquets.
A strong animal odor of the civet cat close to the natural oil.
Typical animal sweet musky odor reminiscent of the civet cat.
Unquestionably animal fecal odor of the civet cat.
Diffusive animal fecal like odor of the civet cat.
An odor reminiscent of the civet cat, fecal like.
Strong animal, fecal notes similar to natural civet, sensual.
A liquid form which lacks the softness found with natural powder.
Animal sweet, free from fecal and urine notes.
Animal sweet.
This Givco is a close reconstitution of civet absolute, which it can replace in
equal amounts. It does not contain any animal extract. It adds diffusive
warmth to fragrances and provides the distinctive effect produced by natural
civet in floral-jasmin, amber, oriental, chypre, and tobacco accords.
Typical animal sweet odor of the civet cat.
A ketone, active element in Abyssinian civet synthesized.
Musk, milder sweeter almost creamy balsamic.
Musky somewhat animal.

Di Hydro Ambrettolide

Musky sweet odor of good tenacity.

Ethyl Phenyl Acetate


Ethylene Brassylate
Exaltolide
Exaltex

Powerful sweet honey like.


Sweet musk warm and powdery.
Delicately animal.
Musk.

Fixolid

Sweet wody musky.

Galaxolide 50
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
Grisalva

Powerful sweet and musky.


Soft floral honey rose like.
Ambergris.

Horsey Dis

An animal amber complex.

Indoflor Crystals
Iso Butyl Phenyl Acetate

Distinct civet like slightly obnoxious animal odor.


Powerful leafy rosy musky fragrance.

Civet Base # 1
Civet Concentrate 50
Civet Concrete
Civet Ethiopia
Civet # 3 S - 788
Civet 170 BSA
Civet Powder
Civet Resin Abs.
Civet Tincture
Civet 241 Oliffac
Civettal
Civette Abs.
Civette Artifical Abs.
Civette Givco 169

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183

Labdanum Abs.

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

A sweet herbaceous recalling ambergris, slightly animal.

Methyl Phenyl Acetate


Monofax
Moskene
Muscambre 66.130
Muscenone
Muscomer Extra 810P
Muscone

Powerful and diffusive honey musk odor.


Musk.
Musky sweet odor.
A musky animal odor.
Musk.
An animal musk slightly sweet odor.
Musk.
Musk Booster 8-2-3 # DB10253 Musk.
Musk C - 14
Musk, sweet.
Musk C - 14 Supra
Musk, sweet.
Musk 144
Sweet musk.
Musk Abs. C ' Less
An animal musky odor powerful and intense.
Musk Alpha
A weak animal note, not very sweet.
Musk Ambrette
Sweet, but yet heavy floral musky odor.
Musk Emeressence
Sweet musk.
Musk Ketone
Sweet and very tenacious musky odor.
Musk KN
Musk.
Musk T
Musk, sweet.
Musk T Supra
Musky, fatty.
Musk Tibetine
Delicately sweet musky, mildly animal like.
Musk TM II
Sweet tenacious musk like.
Muskylein
Sweet musk.
Musk Xylol
Sweet musk tenacious odor rather harsh.
Nepalva

Sweet musky odor.

Oxahexalid
Oxalide T
Oxalide T Supra

Sweet tenacious musk with an ambrette note.


Sweet, soft extremely animal musky odor.
An isomeric sweet musk mixture.

Phantolid
Phenyl Acetic Acid
Phenylal
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Polafix
Polaride

Sweet, musky somewhat animal odor.


Sweet honey animalic type odor.
A very sweet honey animal odor.
Very sweet, rosy fruity honey like odor.
Mild and warm rose honey like odor.
Sweet, woody musky odor.
Sweet and musky odor.

Skatole

Powerful sweet warm animal.

Tetralide

Musky powdery floral.

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Glen O. Brechbill

Tonalid
Tonalix 50
Tonquitone
Traseolide 100
Triflaige - A

184

Sweet woody musky.


Strong radiant musk.
Musk.
Sweet musk.
Tropical, fruity, floral, musk-like.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

185

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Chypre Floral Animalic

CHYPRE FLORAL ANIMALIC


There are several popular animal notes that are employed in modern perfumery today. Musk was originally obtained from the musk deer native to Asia. In dilution otherwise known as a tincture it has a distinctive
animal like note. Civet is a cat native to Ethiopia in Africa. The animal has a gland that produces a sweet urine
musk like odor that produces a velvety nuance to many fragrance blends in trace amounts. A third is Ambergris
produced by the sperm whale. Often this material gray in color is found washed up on the shores of beaches
around the world after being vomited by the whale. A pound of this material can bring a King's ransom. Today
most of the musk like animal materials are produced synthetically. Fine representations of this group include
Galaxolide 50, Ethylene Brassylate including Cashmeran, and Nepalva. Materials that include Phenyl produce
a musk like honey fragrance.
Bergamot 6 %

Top

Lime 2 %, Cassis 1 %, Green Notes .5 %, Pineapple - Trace

Fruity

Apple - Trace, Pear - Trace


Middle

Jasmin 7 %,
Rose 15 %, Violet 7 %, Muguet 6.5 %

Floral

Tuberose - Trace
Base
Musk 18 %
Sandalwood 2 %, Vanilla 1 %, Moss - Trace
Tonka 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %
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Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

186

Chypre Floral Animalic # 1a


Fragrance Ingredient
9
1
123
8
1
38
1
32
37
2
11
4
3
.1
1
11
72
6
18
103
2
46
3
5
1
267
19
7
1
.3
.1
24
4
3
1
11

Sandela
Moss Oliffac
Galaxolide 50
Benzilique Alcool
Ambre 140
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Ambergris
Benzyl Salicylate
Traseolide
Cedraclaire
Amyl Salicylate
Massada
Cashmeran
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Iso Rose
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Acetate De Benzila
Vanilline
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Geraniol
Iso Amyl Geranate
Muguet Base
Ethyl Vanisal
Citronellol
Amyris Oil W.I.
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Rose For Soap Base
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
p - Cresyl Acetate
Mugone S 207M
Alcohol C - 8
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Styrallyl Acetate
Top Galbanum 18.326
Musk Emeressence
Dimetol

Fragrance Ingredient
1
3
19
1
1
10
.1
17
6
3
2
38
.1
4
3
2
4
.1
3
5
.1
2
.1

Breu
Stemone
Linalol Pur FT
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Bergaleaves
Vert de Cassis Givco 180
Folione
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Di Ethyl Malonate
Cassis
Pearlate
Linalyl Acetate
Rose Oil Bulgaria
Applinal
Menthanyl Acetate
Pearalate
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Leaf Acetal
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Myraldyl Acetate
Orange Essence Oil
Galbex 183
Grapefruit Essence

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

187

Chypre Floral Animalic 3 1b


Fragrance Ingredient

11
6
125
9
.1
35
1
9
1
6
14
9
77
6
5
.1
4
9
16
4
7
15
8
63
289
14
94
3
2
8
7
9
3
1
4

Alcool Benzilico
Cedrenyl Acetate
Galaxolide Artessence
Vanillin
Civet
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Oakmoss Givco
Levosandal
Adoxal
Macrolide
Rose Substitute
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Ethyl Vanisal
Top Muguet 18.326
Exaltolide
Petunal
Ionone Alpha
Rose Centifolia Base
Iso Eugenol Acetate
Citronellol
Sandalwood Oliffac
Lilial
Muguet Base
Di Propylene Glycol
Ionone For Soap
Geraniol
Lavender - Turkey
Bois Ambrene Forte
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
a - Ionone Extra
Lime Oil # 96
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast
Verotyl

Fragrance Ingredient

11
22
.1
7
3
4
.1
1
3
9
38
3
15
4
1
2
2
1
.3
1
1
.1
.3

Amyl Salicylate
Linalool Pur
Rose Turkish Abs.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate
Verdox
Santalol
Alcohol C - 9
Moon Drops - Givaudan
Styrallyl Acetate
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Linalyl Acetate
Perryfix
Dimetol
Phenyl Hexanol
cis - 3 - Hexyl Salicylate
Pearlate
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Cassis Givco
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Jasmonyl Acetate
Irisone Pure
Tuberose Oliffac
Reseda Acetal

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

188

Chypre Floral Animalic # 1c


Fragrance Ingredient

4
35
9
22
173
.1
9
1
64
1
3
1
4
11
8
6
3
10
7
2
14
3
.1
1
10
9
105
301
14
.1
53
.1
11
4
27

Vanilla Tincture 80 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyl Alcohol
Sandalwood Oil Australia
Galaxolide Artessence
Moss Oliffac
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Benzophenone
Acetate De Benzila
Iso Jasmone
Hydroxycitronellal Sub AB 2040
Damascenone Alpha
Para Cresyl redistilled
Salicylate Amila
Kephalis
Hawthorn
Ionone
Hydroxycitronellal
Ionone Alpha Refined
Peach Oliffac
Jasmin Province Base
Citronellol 750
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Methyl Benzoate
Lyral
Iris Beurre Oil
Geraniol Coeur
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl ALcohol
Exaltolide
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Alcohol C - 10
Tuberose Substitute
DMBC - Acetate
Linalyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

1
3
1
.3
.1
.3
5
.1
4
1
3
3
6
3
1
1
19
5
3
1
2
11
1

Tangerine Green Oil


Myraldyl Acetate
Bergamot Calabrin Essence
cis - 3 - Hexenyle Salicylate
Muguet Alcohol
Aldeido C - 11 Lenico
Lime Oil, C/P & Folded
Nonadienal
Pivane 22
Bourgeons De Cassis
Styrallyl Acetate
Lioral
Menthanyl Acetate
Verdox
Cetylia Base T
Iralia
Linalool
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Vert De Cassis Givco 180
Nerol Coeur
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Dimetol
Farnesol

1,000

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189

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE FLORAL ANIMALIC


Top

Bergamot 6 % - Fruity
Lemon 2 %, Pineapple .5 %, Basil .5 %

Fruity

Violet Notes, Jasmin, Nutmeg .25 %


Middle
Iso E Super 2 %
Vetivert 1 %
Florhydral 1 %
Cinnamic Alcohol 1 %

Jasmin 8 %
Muguet 5 %, Violet 5 %, Geranium 1 %
Ylang Ylang 1 %, Rose 5 %, Lavender .5 %
Musk 20 %

Base
Sandalwood 3 %, Vanilla .5 %, Galbanum .5 %
Tonka .5 %, Amber - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Floral

Glen O. Brechbill

190

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2a


Fragrance Ingredient

23
28
137
1
3
35
.1
43
9
11
1
6
9
72
16
1
5
2
4
3
24
4
6
48
4
305
9
6
17
1
.1
3
1
5
28

Iso E Super
Sandalwood Extender
Galaxolide Artessence
Moss Oliffac
Vanillin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civettal
Etilen Brasilate
Brahmanol
Benzyl Salicylate
Amber Substitute
Muskylein
Alcool Cinamico
Benzyl Acetate
Vetiver Extender
Phyllos
Lyral
Ethyl Vanisal
Hysimal
Citronellol
Di Hyrdro Iso Jasmone
Florhydral
Lavender 40/52
Geraniol 60
Muguet Augaflor 16
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Koavonne
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Apple Blossom
Iris Abs.
Geranyl Acetate
Everlasting Oil - France
Velvione
Linalol

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
4
7
.1
.1
5
29
1
37
3
.1
11
.1
1
27
1
.1
3
.1
2
4
.1

Parmavert
Nutmeg Oil
Iso Raldeine
Nonadienal
Orange Aldehyde 50 %
cis - 3 - Hexyl Acetate
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Geranium Oil Moroccan
Linalyl Acetate
Bourgenal
Rose Otto
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Exaltolide
Citronellyl Acetate
Lemon Oil, Italian
Bonorax
Bitter Orange Sicily Essence
Glycoflor
Tuberose Oliffac
Cetylia Base T
Cepionate
Nerol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

191

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2b


Fragrance Ingredient

19
183
4
18
5
.1
23
9
4
11
8
1
86
19
7
3
7
6
7
9
.2
3
4
48
6
45
.1
285
7
9
4
.1
3
12
.1
3

Sandela
Galaxolide Artessence
Vanillin
Iso E Super
Velvione
Vetimoss
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzyl Salicylate
Eugenol
Muskylein
Alcool Cinamico
Ethyl Vanillin
Super Cepionate
Vetiver Extender
Alpha Ionone
Rose Givco 217
Florhydral
Polarsan
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Citronellol
Elintaal Forte
Musk Emeressence
Iso Amyl Geranate
Laurine
Geranium Oil Egypt
Geraniol 970
Iris Tincture
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Iso Raldeine 70
Nutmeg Oil Indonesia
2 - Undecenal
Florymoss
Rose For Soap Base
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Stemone

Fragrance Ingredient

4
6
24
.1
6
7
4
.1
24
3
1
38
3
6
1
.1
1
.1
1
11

Lavender Oil French


Verdyl Acetate
Linalol
2, 6 Nonadien
Orange Blood Oil Sicilian
Applinal
Nerol
Geranyl Phenyl Acetate
Lemon Oil Washed
Verdyl Propionate
Rose Orient
Linalyl Acetate S96
Farnesyl Acetate
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Petilyn
Hydroxycitornellaldimethylacetal
Florosia
Leaf Acetal
Sandalwood Oliffac
Ylang Ylang Synthetic

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

192

Chypre Floral Animalic # 2c


Fragrance Ingredient

22
6
3
165
5
4
33
1
2
4
81
9
6
15
27
5
7
3
6
21
6
53
5
.1
334
19
1
4
11
.1
33
5
1
.1
.1

Iso & Super


Benzophenone
Vanalina Rhovanil
Musk Gx 50 % in BB
Galbanum Resinoid
Coumane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Amber Base
Ethyl Vanillin
Givescone
Benzyl Acetate FFC
Ionona Alfa
Lilial
Methyl Ionone Alpha
Ethylene Brassylate
Iris Givco 204/2
Citronellol
Jasmonyl LG
Elintaal Forte
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Alcool Cinamico
Geraniol 98
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Exaltolide
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Tuberose Substitute
Iridales
Cetone Alpha
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Merion
Sandalwood Extender
Vetivery Acetate, Bourbon
Neroli Augaflor 15
Violet Methyl Carbonate
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
3
1
48
1
3
1
4
6
3
1
.3
.1
1
.1
24
3
1
.1
1
1

Cassis Abs.
Nutmeg India
CIS - 3 - Hexenyl Acetate
Muguet Base
Sauge Sclarce
Citronellyl Acetate 85 %
Rose Acetate
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Verdyl Acetate
Styrallyl Alcohol
Ylang Ylang 3
Undecavertol
Roseate
y - Irone
Lemon Oil - Washed
Verdyl Propionate
Sweet Pea
Methyl Tuberate
Styrax Oil - Turkey
Eugenyl Acetate

1,000

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193

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Chypre Green

CHYPRE GREEN
A delightful concept, and one of my favorites is the Green theme. It is always open for experimentation
and interpretations. Generally a wide variety of floral components are incorporated into this arrangement with
a greenness based on Galbanum, Muguet, or Lily of the Valley, with strong green like synthetic notes. Often
added are herbaceous coniferous traces to round off this accord.
Top

Bergamot 3 % - Fruity
Pineapple 1 %, Violet Notes, Cassis 1 %

Floral Green

Green Notes, Peach 2 %


Middle

Argumen 1 %
Muguet 10 %, Lilac 3 %, Jasmin 7 %

Floral

Violet 3 %, Rose 5 %, Carnation 1 %, Hawthorn 1 %


Base

Iso E Super 9 %
Sandalwood 1 %, Musk 3 %, Vanilla 1 %
Moss - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Alccohol 2 %
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Woody

Glen O. Brechbill

194

Chypre Green # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

8
11
9
103
42
7
12
3
1
14
44
10
9
102
4
11
8
4
29
7
5
.1
22
1
4
6
1
325
42
1
33

Galbanum Coeur
Alcool Benzilico
Santela
Iso E Super
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanillin
Benzyl Benzoato
Heliotropine
Patchouli Oil
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
MDJ
Argumen Aldehyde
Eugenol 100
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Neo Galbanum Oil N
Anisaldehyde PQ
Citronellol
Vanillinethyl
Terpineolprime
Rose For Soap Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Alcool C - 9
Iraldeine Standard Substitute
Methyl Benzoate
Citronellol
Lyral
Iso Jasmone
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Boisnal
Ethylene Brassylate

Fragrance Ingredient

6
3
11
4
.1
3
.2
13
9
6
10
7
1
1
1
1
.1
4
3
1
.1
1
1
5
3
.4
4
23

Tangerinol
Jasmonyl Acetate
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Acetato Styralyle
Undecatriene
Stemone
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Linalool Synthetic FCC
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Aldeido C - 14
Peacharoma Base
Cyclal - C
Poirinate
Tuberose Oliffac
Neroli Artessence
Galbanum Essence
Muguet Alcohol
Cassis Fragrance
Geranyl Acetate
Vanillyl Alcohol
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Peomosa
Green Base Augaflor 10
Petilyn
Melon Org
Narcisse 2573 - RI - 4
Linalyl Acetate

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

195

Chypre Green # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

6
21
2
.1
54
15
6
12
3
93
38
19
27
4
19
13
8
10
1
.1
3
37
21
5
3
.1
9
324
4
2
43
24
49
8
3
7
.1

Vanillin
Alcool Benzila
Balsam Peru Oil
Mousse Essence Abs.
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Javanol
Patchouli Oil China
Benzyl Benzoate
Cedryl Acetate
Iso E Super
Benzyl Salicylate
Kephalis
Galaxolide Artessence
Osyrol
Aubepine
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Lavender Oil 40/42
Sanjinol
3 - Octyl Acetate
Cyclrose
Rosone
Lilial
Carnation Base
Citronellol
Vanilla Tincture 20 %
Alcohol C - 8
Hidroxicitronelal
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Acetate De Benzyle
Iris Beurre Oil
Hercolyn - D
Liral
Geraniol
Linalol
Anapear - Givaudan
Lavender Citrus Base
Geranium Egypt Essence

Fragrance Ingredient

5
.1
24
3
6
12
8
1
17
10
.1
.1
2
3
5
.1
4
.1
3
1
.1
3

Cassia Fragrance
Ylang Eco Essence
Linalyl Acetate
Meijiff
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Ionone Alpha Refined
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Peach Pure
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Ribes Nigrum ( Black Currant )
Nonadienal
Aldehyde C - 12 Pear
Styrallylacetate
Iso Amyl Geranate
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Nerol
Methyl Tuberate
y - Irone
Damascenia 185 SA
Leaf Alcohol
Myraldyl Acetate

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

196

Chypre Green # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

11
8
104
8
.1
9
43
7
1
34
9
1
21
14
3
13
1
19
10
2
9
28
6
4
1
5
1
339
44
7
22
105
6
3
2

Benzyl Benzoate
Helional
Iso & Super
Cinnamic Alcohol
Lichen
Sandela
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vanillin
Amyris Haiti
Salicylate DBenzyle
Alpha - Ionone
Holy Basil Oil
Gardenia Base
Methyl Jasmonate pure
Javanol
Aubepine ( ANisic Aldehyde )
Rosone
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Eugenol
Garcenia 75 %
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Terpineol Prime
Citronellol 950
Hydrofix L
Sandalore
Myraldyl Acetate
Iso Rose
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Eugenol, Iso
Hercolyn - D
Muguet Base
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Anapear - Givaudan
Cassis Fragrance

Fragrance Ingredient

9
14
4
.1
2
3
2
.1
11
.2
9
4
1
.1
.1
1
.3
3
1
1
25
3
.1
4
.1
2

Linalool ex Citrata
Aldehyde C - 14
y - Irone
Rose Turque
Scennal
Vetyver Java
Acetate De Geranyle
Tuberose Oliffac
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Oxanone
Peach Blossom FM - 1042
Bourgenal
Vanilla Bean Clair
Rose Oxide L
Nonadienal
White Rose
Leaf Alcohol
Florymoss
Friastone
Rose Acetate
Linalyl Acetate
Bergamot Calabrian Gr. 3
Genet Abs. - Italy
Vernol
Alcohol C - 09
Sandal, India

1,000

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197

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE GREEN
Green Notes 1 %

Top

Cassis 1 %, Pear 2 %, Bregamot 4 % - Fruity

Fresh Green

Pineapple 1 %, Grapefruit .5 %, Basil .5 %


Muguet 11 %

Middle

Lily 3 %, Hyacinth 1 %, Rose 7 %

Floral

Violet 5 %, Jasmin 3 %, Hawthorn 1.5 %


Base
Galbanum 2 %
Sandalwood 5 %, Oakmoss - Trace, Tonka 2 %
Civet - Trace, Vanilla .5 %, Patchouli 1 %
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

198

Chypre Green # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

6
22
3
11
43
.1
23
29
1
24
8
11
14
9
5
.1
6
3
10
14
103
1
.1
5
22
69
238
1
19
5
48
6
3
2
3
1

Vanillin
Alcool Benzila
Amyris Oil W.I.
Patchouli Chinese
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Tincture
Helional
Salicylate De Benzyle
Mousse De Chenne
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cetonal V
Lavande - Matherone
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Sandalore
Vanilla Abs. 100 %
Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur
Ethyl Vanisal
Para Cresyl redistilled
Citronellol
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Alpha Damascone
Alcool C - 8
Pine Seed Oil
Hawthorn
Geraniol 970
Di Propylene Glycol
Rosewood Texas Rectified
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Hyacinth Body
Sandalwood Extender
Styrallylacetate
Galbanodor
Florymoss
Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate
Sweet Basil Oil

Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
3
.1
2
.4
7
1
14
2
3
1
5
8
6
23
7
.1
4
6
1
3
4
.1
5

Vert de Cassis Givco 180


Meranol
Lime Distilled Peruvian
Aldehye C - 11 Lenic
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Iridales
Grapefruit Oil - West Indian
3 - Octyl Acetate
Linalool
Irisone Pure
Geranyl Acetone
Bourgeon DAvana
Tangerine Oil Calif. - US
Gardenia Base
Nerol
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Verdyl Propionate
Geraniol 600
Bergamot Italian FCC
Cassis Fragrance
Aldehyde C - 19
Petilyn
Verdyl Acetate
Ionone
Myraldyl Acetate

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

199

Chypre Green # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

6
22
3
11
43
.1
21
31
1
26
6
11
14
9
5
.1
2
3
10
7
114
1
.1
5
22
69
258
1
12
3
41
5
1
1

Vanillin
Alcool Benzila
Sandalore
Patchouli Oil MD
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Tincture
Di Hydro Coumarex
Salicylate De Benzyle
Mousse De Chenne
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cetonal V
Lavande - Matherone
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Sandalore
Vanilla Abs. 100 %
Methyl Cedryl Ketone Coeur
Ethyl Vanisal
Para Cresyl redistilled
Citronellol
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Damascenia 185 SA
Alcohol C - 9
Fir Needle Oil Canadian
Hawthorn
Geraniol 970
Di Propylene Glycol
Rosewood Texas Rectified
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Hyacinth Body
Sandalwood Extender
Styrallylacetate
Galbanodor
Florymoss

Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
3
1
3
.1
2
.4
5
1
16
1
3
1
5
10
4
24
7
.1
8
6
1
3
4
.1
1

Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate


Sweet Basil Oil
Vert de Cassis Givco 180
Meranol
Lime Distilled Peruvian
Aldehye C - 11 Lenic
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Iridales
Grapefruit Oil - West Indian
3 - Octyl Acetate
Linalool
Irisone Pure
Geranyl Acetone
Bourgeon DAvana
Tangerine Oil California
Gardenia Base
Nerol
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Verdyl Propionate
Meranol
Bergamot Italian
Cassis Fragrance
Aldehyde C - 19
Petilyn
Verdyl Acetate
Ionone
Myraldyl Acetate

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

200

Chypre Green # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

4
10
3
9
47
.1
23
22
1
34
8
9
15
10
5
.1
6
3
5
11
121
1
.1
1
19
57
265
1
11
5
48
6
3
2
3
1

Vanillin
Benzyl Alcohol FR
Amyris Oil W.I.
Patchouli Chinese
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Tincture
Helional
Salicylate De Benzyle
Mousse De Chenne
Hedione
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Ionone Alpha Refined
Lavender Oil - French
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Indisan
Vanilla Abs. CLess MD
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Ethyl Vanillin
Para Cresyl redistilled
Citronellol 850
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Beta Damascone
Alcool C - 8
Pine Seed Oil
Aubepine
Geraniol 970
Di Propylene Glycol
Rosewood Texas Rectified
Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol
Hyacinth Body
Sandalwood Extender
Styrallylacetate
Galbanodor
Berryflor
Aldehyde Cyclo Hexyl Propionate
Sweet Basil Oil

Fragrance Ingredient

3
1
1
.1
2
.4
7
2
15
2
1
1
5
8
2
27
9
.1
2
6
1
3
4
.1
5

Vert de Cassis Givco 180


Rose Acetate
Lime Oil 410
Aldehye C - 11 Lenic
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Iridales
Grapefruit Oil - West Indian
3 - Octyl Acetate
Linalool
Irisone Pure
Geranyl Acetone
Bourgeon DAvana
Tangerinol
Gardenia Base
Nerol Petals
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Verdyl Propionate
Geraniol 600
Bergamot Italian FCC
Cassis Fragrance
Aldehyde C - 19
Petilyn
Verdyl Acetate
Ionone
Myraldyl Acetate

1,000

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201

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE GREEN
Top

Lime 2 %

Undecavertol - Trace
Pharanone 10 % - Trace
Florhydral - Trace

Apple 6 %, Bergamot 9 %, Green Notes 1 %


Pear .5 %, Raspberry - Trace

Middle

Rose 9 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 %


Peonile 1.5 %
Hexyl Aceate 2 %
Base

Fresh Green

Muguet 7 %, Jasmin 2 %, Violet 3 %

Floral

Narcissus - Trace, Osmanthus 1 %


Spiro Galbanone 1 %
Musk 8 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Civet - Trace
Ambrettolide - Trace, Sandalwood 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Balsamic

Glen O. Brechbill

202

Chypre Green # 3a

9
14
1
1
53
42
.1
11
22
4
3
10
19
1
38
25
76
14
2
15
10
1
87
4
14
3
367
5
8
10
.1
3
.3
19
3

Fragrance Ingredient

Fragrance Ingredient

Spirogalbanone
5
Cou Marin
.1
Mousse De Chenne
8
Ambrox DL Coeur
2
Galaxolide Artessence
33
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
3
Civet Ethopia
.1
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
21
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
5
Cedraclaire
1
Sandela
3
Galbanum Reunion
12
Sandalwood Extender
4
Rosone
2
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
1
Zeppin
5
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
9
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
11
Anthamber Premium
4
Citronellol 750
2
Florymoss
5
Delta Damascone
8
Geraniol 60
1
Lilie
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Koavonne
1,000
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Gardionolene
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Gardenia Base
Undecavertol
Orange Oil Sweet
Aldehyde C - 8
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl - Acetate
Styralyl Acetate

Top Muguet 18.326


Alcohol C - 8
Alicate
Pharone 10 %
Verdox
Aldeido Ciclamen
Methyl Tuberate
Apple Juice Givco
Bourgenal
Vanillyl Alcohol
Muguet Aldehyde
Dimetol
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Osmanthus
Vern Aldehyde
Geranyl Acetate
Raspberry Ketone
Lime Oil # 96
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Bourgenal
Myraldyl Acetate
Manzanate
Soft Skin Accord - IFF

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

203

Chypre Green # 3b
Fragrance Ingredient

9
9
1
1
73
37
.1
11
22
4
3
8
26
1
41
29
76
20
2
11
4
1
83
4
17
3
349
4
8
11
.1
3
.3
19
3

Spirogalbanone
Alicate
Mousse De Chenne
Mberwood
Galaxolide Artessence
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Powder # 1A
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Benzyle Salicylate
Florhydral
Bacdanol
Galbanum Reunion
Sandalwood Extender
Rose Crystals
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Super Cepionate
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Anthamber Premium
Citronellol
Berryflor
Alpha Damascone
Geraniol
P - Cresyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Kephalis
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Gardenia Fleuriff
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Gardenia Base
Undecavertol
Bitter Orange
Aldehyde C - 8
DMBC - Acetate
Styralyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

8
.1
8
2
48
3
.1
15
2
1
3
11
4
2
2
7
9
11
4
2
5
1
1

Top Muguet 18.326


Alcohol C - 9
Hexyle Acetate
Pharone 10 %
Verdox
Aldeido Ciclamen
Methyl Tuberate
Apple Oliffac
Bois Ambrene Forte
Vanillyl Alcohol
Muguet Aldehyde
Dimetol
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Hedione
Vern Aldehyde
Geranyl Acetate
Oxanone
Lime Oil # 96
Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate
Bourgenal
Myraldyl Acetate
Manzanate
Cashmeran

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

204

Chypre Green # 3c
Fragrance Ingredient

9
16
1
1
63
40
.1
11
22
4
3
10
19
1
41
29
85
9
2
16
16
1
73
4
17
5
341
4
14
11
.1
3
.3
19
3
5

Top Galbanum
Coumane
Mousse De Chenne
Ambrox DL Coeur
Galaxolide 50
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Civet Tincture
Argumen Aldehyde Substitute
Benzyl Salicylate IFF
Florhydral
Bacdanol
Galbanum Reunion
Sandalwood Extender
Rose Crystals
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Zeppin
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
alpha - Ionone
Anthamber Premium
Citronellol
Peonile
Damascenia
Geraniol
P - Cresyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Gardionolene
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Gardenia Base
Undecavertol
Bitter Orange
Aldehyde C - 8
Jasmin Egypt
Styrallyl Acetate
Top Muguet 18.326

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
8
2
43
3
.1
14
5
1
3
9
4
2
1
5
9
11
4
2
5
8
1

Alcohol C - 8
Hexyle Acetate
Pharone 10 %
Verdox
Aldeido Ciclamen
Methyl Tuberate
Apple Juice Givco
Vert De Cassis Givco
Vanillyl Alcohol
Muguet Aldehyde
Dimetol
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Osmanthus
Vern Aldehyde
Geranyl Acetate
Oxanone
Lime Oil # 96
Di Ethyl Malonate
Bourgenal
Myraldyl Acetate
Applinal
Soft Skin Accord - IFF

1,000

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205

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Floriental

FLORIENTAL
A Floriental is a new family of fine fragrances. The heart of the composition is based on a floral arrangement with a slight emphasis on oriental notes. Whether this fragrance should be classified in the floral family
of fragrances or the oriental is open for debate. I decided to place it before the oriental family since the spice
notes will predominate most arrangements.
Peach 1 %

Top

Strawberry 1 %, Bergamot 7 %, Orange 5 %

Fruity Sweet

Lemon 3 %, Tangerine 1 %, Apple - Trace, Basil 1 %


Rose 6 %

Middle

Carnation 4 %, Jasmin 5 %, Violet 3 %


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 %

Floral Spicy

Muguet 3 %, Lilac 1 %
Opoponax 1 %

Base
Myrrh .5 %, Benzoin .5 %, Tonka 5 %
Musk 3 %, Sandalwood 1.5 %,
Bacdanol 1 %, Vanilla .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm Spicy

Glen O. Brechbill

206

Floriental # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

19
4
16
13
4
40
11
12
25
33
5
4
9
3
26
18
35
57
6
23
5
14
3
6
11
4
335
3
47
5
3
6
25
9
3
7

Benzoato Benzila
Heliotropine
Alicate
Sandela
Myrh Resinoid Washed
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Opoponax Resinoid
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Galaxolide
Coumarin Pure
Bacdanol
Vanillin
alpha - Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Muscomer 1151 P
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Hidroxicitronelal
Eugenol
Benzyle Acetate
Hidroxicitronelal
Ionone Alpha
Osyrol
Carnation Base
Vanillinethyl
Citronellol
Lindenol
Kephalis
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Verdantiol
Geraniol
Myraldyl Acetate
Terpinyl Acetate
Syringa
Linalol
Hexyl Salicylate
Cinnamon Leaf Oil
Phenylethylalcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

4
1
8
.1
3
1
.1
1
1
35
2
5
.1
1
5
2
.1
9
3
27

Dianthanol
Florymoss
Strawberry Oliffac
Myrrh Essence
Verdyl Acetate
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Violet Absolute
Meranol
Nutmeg Oil - Sri. Lanka
Linalyl Acetate Pure 98 %
Methyl Chavicole
Verdox
Celeri Oil
Suderal LT
Nectaryl
Osyrol
Geranyl Acetate
Tangerinol
Jasmonyl Acetate
Lemon Oil, Washed

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

207

Floriental # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

48
5
17
9
9
24
43
8
1
9
3
13
9
65
5
1
17
4
7
3
19
4
11
63
9
314
5
.1
22
14
1
.1
34
1
39

Coumarin Substitute
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Sandela T Neat
Benzyl Benzoate
Opoponax Base
Ethylene Brassylate
Phthalate DEthyle
Benzoin Resinoid Synthetic
Styrax Coeur
Benzyl Salicylate
Carvi
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Vanillin
Claigeon
Kephalis
Rose Crystals
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Lilial
Citronellol
Bisabolene
Cinnimique Aldehyde natural
Sandalore
Iso - Eugenol
Geraniol
Terpineol Prime
Di Propileno Glico
Hydrofix L
Rose Oxide ( Inactive )
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Ionone Alpha Refined
Celery India
Tea Essence
Carnation Base
Phytol
Linalyl Acetate Pure

Fragrance Ingredient

1
14
31
1
11
55
7
1
3
14
3
2
24
1
4
13
9
6
.1
3
7
1
3

Ylang Ylang Third


Irisone Pure
Lemon Oil Arizona C.P.
CIS Jasmone
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Orange Oil Guinea C.P.
Aldehyde C - 16
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Verdox
Pine Maritime Oil - France
Carnation Augaflor 41
Perryfix
Linalol
Cassia Oil B & F
Tonkarinol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Terpinyl Acetate
Clove Oil rectified
Tonka Beans Abs.
Raspberry Ketone
Hidroxi Citronelal
Thyme Wild Oil
Acetate De Vetiver Coeur

1000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

208

Floriental # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

4
23
38
41
12
9
10
1
3
9
12
19
1
16
35
4
3
63
3
7
8
12
1
44
10
318
4
1
6
5
34
.1
4
3
.2
17

Acetyl Iso Eugenol


Benzoato Benzila
Rhodiascent Extra Pure
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
Musk 781
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Moss Oliffac
Vanillin
Opoponax Resinoid 50 % / DPG
Sandela
Sandalwood Oil Australian
Benteine
Aldeido Cinamico Amil
Carnation Base
Eugenol
Caraway Oil
Super Cepionate
Iritone
Citronellol 750
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Lilac Base
Thymol Crystals
Geraniol 60
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Musc 50 % DPG
Rosone
Verdyl Propionate
Pepperwood
Muguet Base
Ionone
Carnaline
Methyl Chavicole
Aldehyde C 11 ( Undecylinque )
Acetate De Terpinyle

Fragrance Ingredient

5
1
10
29
.1
53
.1
.1
3
4
3
41
5
7
6
3
7
2
37
.1
3
1

Citrus Bergamia
Safraleine
Aldehyde C - 14
Linalool
Alcohol C - 8
Orange Navel Cold Pressed
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Styrallyl Propionate
Piperonal
Verdyl Acetate
Clove Leaf Oil rect., min 85 %
Linalyl Acetate
Hydrofix R
Pine Tree Std.
Di Ethyl Malonate
Tangerine Oil - Syria
Peach Oliffac
Myraldyl Acetate
Lemon - Iran
Rose Oil Templar
Nutmeg Indonesian
Sweet Pea

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

209

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Oriental Sweet

ORIENTAL SWEET
An oriental sweet scent can have a citrus top note and a sweet vanilla amber foundation. Vanillin, and Ethyl
Vanillin both aldehydes can be used up to 10 % providing that extra sweetness. One can also utilize Balsam
Peru Oil, Vanilla Tincture, Vanilla Sur Abs. C'Less MD in conjunction with Benzyl family of materials.
Top

Bergamot 9 % - Dry
Green Notes .5 %, Jasmin 2 %, Orange 1 %

Fruity Sweet

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Peach 3 %, Vetiver Acetate .5 %


Middle

Muguet 4 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %

Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 5 %, Rose 6 %

Floral

Violet 1 %
Base

Vanilla 1.5 %
Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 2 %, Patchouli 1 %
Tonka 1 %, Vetiver 4 %, Bacdanol 1 %
Resin Benzoin 1, Moss - Trace, Earth Note - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Balsamic

Glen O. Brechbill

210

Oriental Sweet # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

9
10
7
22
41
5
1
68
13
5
7
1
1
35
42
39
3
2
9
1
37
4
8
4
319
1
52
3
1
35
6
5
9
2
1
1
1

Bacdanol
Benzoato Benzila
Vanisal
Sandalwood Extender
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benteine
Oakmoss Givco
Salicylate De Benzyle
Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
Ethyl, Vanillin
Patchouli Light
Sandalwood Oil East Indian
Earth
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Vetiver Extender
Benzyle Acetate
Vanilla Resinoid
Cedrenyl Acetate
Di Hydro Coumarex
Serenolide
Hidroxicitronelal
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Citronellol
Laurine Extra
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iris Beurre Oil
Geraniol
Koavone
Meijiff
Carnation Base
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Irisone Pure
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Acetate De Styrallyle
Meranol
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Tuberose Oliffac

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
8
54
9
1
4
10
29
28
.1
.2
1
4
27
3
1
2
1
1
1
1
3

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
DMBC - Acetate
Linalol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Vetiver Acetate
Orange Oil of Florida
Linalyl Acetate
Peach Pure
Folione
Alcohol C - 10
Undecatriene
Nectaryl
Aldeido C - 14
Vertoyl
Orange Aldehyde
Petilyn
Sandalore
Bourgenal
Fleuroxene
Phixia
Ciclamen Aldeido

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

211

Oriental Sweet # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

8
11
1
10
43
22
4
63
11
9
23
38
31
5
6
9
3
35
6
7
43
58
4
47
11
5
317
.1
4
2
11
38
.1
.1
.1
.1

Vanilla
Benzoato Benzila
Rose Crystals
Coumarin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Substitute
Woodynol - II
Salicylate D Benzyl
Patchouli Oil, Indonesian, Light
Benteine
Galaxolide 50
Eugenol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Javanol
Ethyl Vanisal
Laurine Extra
Cedrenyl Acetate
Vetiver Extender
Citronellol 850
Ionone, beta
Cepionate
Geraniol 97 %
Cedraclaire
Iso Eugenol Substitute
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Iraldeine Standard
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Vanilla Sur Abs. CLess
Nerol
Bisabolene
Resin Benzoin
Muguet Base
Moss Oliffac
Rosenol synthetic
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Styrax Mix - Oil

Fragrance Ingredient

3
6
2
11
24
3
5
.1
4
2
3
2
25
5
1
1
.1
.1
.1
1
9
3
.1
4

Raspberry Leaves - IFF


Vetiver Oil Haitian
Styrallyl Acetate
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Bergamit Oil Substitute
Cetonal
Vetiver Acetate
Alcool C - 9
Sandela
Meijiff
Ciclamen Aldehyde
Muguet Alcohol
Peach Aroma Base
Sandalwood Oliffac
Meranol
Undecatriene
Rose Otto Augaflor
Petilyn
Neroli Blossom Water
Orange Naval Cold Pressed
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Bergamot C.P. Guina
Violet Leaves
Fir Needle Canadian

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

212

Oriental Sweet # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

9
8
3
12
28
22
39
8
4
73
1
26
32
1
4
8
43
9
13
6
1
48
.2
35
1
308
11
8
17
4
47
2
.1
1
.1
.3
1

Helional
Vanillin
Cedrenyl Acetate
Benzyl Benzoate
Galaxolide 50
Sandalwood Extender
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Indonesia
Cinnamon Bark Sri Lanka 40 %
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
Earth
Hydroxycitronellal A
Hexil Cinamic Aldeido
Amber Core
Vanillin, ethyl
alpha - Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol
MDJ
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Lilial
Cironellol
Fixateur 404
Carnation Base
Melaleuca Altrni Folia
Geraniol
Pepper ( Jalapeno )
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Methyl Ionone Beta
Eugenol
Koavonne
Linalol S 97
Styrallyl Acetate
Tomato Leaves
CIS Jasmone
Sandalwood Essence
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Acalea II

Fragrance Ingredient

4
3
.1
5
9
4
17
5
1
29
13
4
3
32
7
4
6
12
1
3
.1
1
1
3

Laurine
Caryophyllene Acetate
Methyl Cinnimate
Thyme Inco 20
Terpinyl Acetate
Cassia
Orange Oil Guinea
Zinergone
Florymoss
Linalyl Acetate
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Vetiver Acetate
Clove Bud Oil
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
Black Agar Givco 215
Peach Aroma Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Pepperwood
Bay Leaves Oil Anise
Rose Oxide - ( Z )
Spicy Carbonate
Persil Feuilles
Cyclamen Aldehyde

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

213

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Feminine Fragrances - Oriental Spicy

ORIENTAL SPICY
Incorporating spicy ingredients often from Indian can include clove, nutmeg and carnation, cardamom and
curry. Adding musk materials that can include floral accords such as jasmine and ylang-ylang tend to provide
a delicate touch to this group. The notes can be bitter, or contain sweet elements A fragrance in this area is distinctive, and can be enjoyed by both men and women. Many perfumers add balsamic notes derived from balsam materials including resinous notes derived from Balsam Peru.
Top

Green Notes .5 %
Jasmin 2 %, Bergamot 9 % - Dry, Orange 2 %, Ylang Ylang 1 %

Fruity Sweet

Peach 3 %, Apple .5 %, Neroli .5 %, Pear .25 %, Vetiver Acetate .5 %


Middle

Violet 2 %
Jasmin 7 %, Carnation 4 %, Rose 5 %

Floral

Muguet 5 %
Base

Vanilla 2 %
Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 3 %, Patchouli 1 %, Tonka 1 %
Vetiver 3 %, Earth - Trace, Bacdanol 1 %, Resin Benzoin 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Balsamic

Glen O. Brechbill

214

Oriental Sweet # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

9
10
22
.1
10
34
9
8
67
5
4
2
31
28
24
7
8
4
3
6
4
5
43
3
323
6
4
8
4
3
48
8
7
3
.3
1

Vanisal
Osyrol
Benzoato Benzila
Iso Propyl Quinoline
Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Javanol
Vertofix Coeur
Benzylsalicylate
Methyl Jasmonate
Florhydral
Methyl Benzoate
Super Cepionate
Hexil Cinamico Aldeido
Vetiver Extender
Ethyl, Vanillin
Benteine
Farnesol Oil
Irone V
Cinnamic Alcohol
Meijiff
Verdantiol
Carnation Base
Dianthanol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Sandalwood Mysore
Laurine
Rose For Soap Base
Kephalis
Phixia
Muguet Base
Citronellol
Phenylethylalcohol
Styrallylacetate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Caraway

Fragrance Ingredient

1
14
43
4
1
3
2
12
5
.3
24
.1
.1
1
1
1
9
58
4
3
2
1
.1
9
1
37

Undecatriene
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Linalool Synthetic FCC
Jamsonyl Acetate
Celery Seed Oil - India
Floralol
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Peach Pure
Vetiver Acetate
Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
Orange Oil of California
Alcohol C - 9
Ylang # 1
Bourgenal
Geranium Over Roses
Rose Acetate
Cinnamon - Chinese
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Melfloral
Neryl Acetate
Stemone
Pepper Black India Essence
Alcohol C - 10
Orange Oils, Dark
Anisyl Alcohol
Geraniol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

215

Oriental Sweet # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

5
8
22
.1
10
38
9
8
69
5
4
2
21
28
24
7
8
4
3
6
4
5
43
3
333
6
4
8
4
3
48
8
7
3
.3
1

Vanisal
Sandela
Benzoato Benzila
Earth
Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Javanol
Vertofix
Benzylsalicylate
Methyl Jasmonate
Pescheux
Methyl Benzoate
Hedione High Cis
Hexil Cinamico Aldeido
Vetiver Extender
Ethyl, Vanillin
Benteine
Farnesol Oil
Irone V
Cinnamic Alcohol
Meijiff
Sandela
Carnation Base
Bisabolene
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Sandalwood Mysore
Laurine Extra
Rose Base
Kephalis
Phixia
Muguet Base
Citronellol 750
Phenylethylalcohol
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Cosmone - Givaudan

Fragrance Ingredient

1
14
43
4
1
3
2
12
5
.3
34
.1
.1
1
1
1
11
48
2
3
2
1
.1
9
1
37

Undecatriene
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Linalool Synthetic FCC
Jamsonyl Acetate
Celery Seed Oil - India
Floralol
Ciclamen Aldeido
Peach Blossom FM - 1042
Verdantiol
Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
Orange Oil Sweet
Alcohol C - 9
Ylang # 3
Bourgenal
Geranium Over Roses
Rose Acetate
Cinnamon - Chinese
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Melfloral
Neryl Acetate
Stemone
Pepper Black India Essence
Alcohol C - 10
Orange Oils, Dark
Anisyl Alcohol
Geraniol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

216

Oriental Sweet # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

9
8
22
.1
7
39
9
8
67
3
6
2
31
28
20
7
10
5
3
8
2
5
45
1
326
3
4
5
4
3
51
8
7
3
.3

Vanisal
Bacdanol
Benzoato Benzila
Earth
Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Javanol
Vertofix
Benzylsalicylate
Myraldyl Acetate
Pomarose
Methyl Benzoate
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Vetiver Extender
Ethyl Vanillin
Iso Jasmone
Nerolidol
Irone V
Cinnamic Alcohol
Meijiff
Verdantiol
Carnation Base
Bisabolene
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Sandalwood Mysore
Meijiff
Rose Base # 60
Kephalis
Phixia
Muguet Base
Citronellol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Styrallylacetate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic

Fragrance Ingredient

1
1
14
43
4
1
3
2
12
5
.3
24
.1
.1
1
1
1
9
58
4
3
2
1
.1
9
1
37

Caraway
Corsican Violet
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Linalool
Jasmone
May Rose
Floralol
Ciclamen Aldeido
Peach Blossom FM - 1042
Vetiver Acetate
Aldehyde C - 31 Blackcurrant
Orange Oil Sweet
Alcohol C - 8
Ylang # 2
Bourgenal
Citronellyl Acetate
Meranol
Cinnamon - Chinese
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Melfloral
Neryl Acetate
Stemone
Pepper Black India Essence
Alcohol C - 10
Orange Oils, Dark
Anisyl Alcohol
Geraniol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

217

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

ORIENTAL SPICY
Top

Strawberry 1 %
Bergamot 6 %, Orange 5 %, Lemon 3 %,

Fruity Sweet

Mandarin 2 %, Basil 1 %, Peach - Trace


Middle

Cinnamon 2 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %


Spice Notes 2 %

Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 5 %, Rose 5 %

Spicy Floral

Violet 3 %, Muguet 1 %, Pine 1 %


Base

Tonka 6 %
Opoponax 1 %, Myrry 1 %, Musk 2 %
Sandalwood .5 %, Cedramber 1 %, Bacdanol 1 %, Vertofix 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 2 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm Spicy

Glen O. Brechbill

218

Oriental Spicy
Fragrance Ingredient

6
55
17
21
9
28
4
6
11
9
4
42
10
39
12
4
43
10
12
11
4
12
15
4
8
292
11
12
36
5
9
.1
1
24
9

Bacdanol
Coumarin Substitute
Ethylene Brassylate
Phthalate DEthyl
Sandalwood Oil Australian
Benzyl Benzoate
Cedrenyl Acetate
Thyme Spanish White Commercial
Opoponax Resinoid
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Alicate
Hercolyn - D
Alpha Cinnamic Aldehyde
Eugenol
Myrrh Resin Substitute
Thymol Crystals
Benzyle Acetate
Fir Needle Oil Canada
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Di Isopropyl Phenol
Safraleine
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Ionone Alpha
Iso Eugenol
Citronellol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Lilial
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Geraniol
Poivre 125
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Nutmeg Aromatic Water
CIS Jasmone
Linalool
Vertofix Coeur

Fragrance Ingredient

7
4
9
13
4
17
1
45
1
.1
.3
37
1
32
8
5
4
.1
.3
3
1
8
.1
3

Lavender Oil Bulgarian


Zingerone
Strawberry Aldehyde
Terpinyl Acetate
Lyral
Mandarin Oil Italian Select
Fennel Oil, sweet
Orange spanish
Carvi Europe
Nonadienal
Ylang Ylang Complete
Linalyl Acetate
Rosemary Leaves Oil
Lemon Oils
Hydroxycitronellal A
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Persicol SA
Cury Leaf Oil
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Strawberry Oliffac
Cassia Oil - Viet Nam
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Proionate
Myrrh Essence
Cardamon Seed

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

219

Oriental Spicy # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

5
28
61
18
23
9
10
6
43
1
41
12
9
11
8
12
13
18
42
39
11
4
10
13
1
7
289
9
.1
32
41
3
52
.1
1
4
7

Acetate DIso Eugenyl


Benzoato Benzila
Coumane
Galaxolide Artessence
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedramber
Opoponax Base
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
MDJ
Aubepine
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Alcool Cinnamique synth.
Bacdanol
Pine Oil 900
Carnation Base
Hercolyn - D
Geraniol Pure
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cardamon Oil - Honduras
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Vertofix Coeur
Bisabolene
Citronellol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Lilial
Exaltolide
Ionone Intermediate Base
Hercolyn - D
Carnaline
Orange Oil Sweet - US
Alcohol C - 8
Tea Tree Oil
Jasmonyl Acetate
Terpinyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

35
1
4
.1
5
1
9
22
.1
.1
.1
1
4
2
3
5
.1
3
5
.3
2
1
1
1

Lemon Oil - Ivory Coast


Celery India
Thyme Oil - Spanish White
Sandalwood Essence
Vetivert Oil - Haiti
Lilial
Aldeido C - 16
Mandarin Oil - South African
Tobacco Inco 20
Lime Essence
Ylang Ylang II
Clove Bud Oil
Verdy Propionate
CIS Jasmone
Iralia
Hydroxycitronellal A
Nonadienal
Verdyl Acetate
Nectaryl
Beta Caryophellene
Massada
Caraway ( Carvi )
Opoponax Augaflor 24
Iso - Eugenol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

220

Oriental Spicy # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

3
9
57
4
32
11
1
10
6
16
10
9
4
8
36
12
8
19
24
43
18
33
2
8
319
7
11
14
5
9
9
.1
.3
8
6
1
25
3

Fragrance Ingredient

Rose Crystals
5
Verdyl Acetate
Sandela
9
Lyral
Coumane
3
Cassia Oliffac
Acetate Iso Eugenol
14
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
1
Pepper Black India Oil
Myrrh Resinoid Substitute
41
Linalyl Acetate
Drywood Augaflor
9
Aldehyde C - 16
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
7
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
Cedrenyl Acetate
.1
Narcissi Moroccan
Muscomer 1151 P
45
Orange Oil Brazil
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
1
Pelargene
Ionone Alpha
33
Lemon Juicy Coast
Flavoperine
8
Hidroxicitronelal
Massada
2
Coriande Seed Oil
Eugenol
.1
Benzoin Abs. - Sumatra
Pine Oil
5
Celery Seed Oil
Sandalore
.1
Folione
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
8
Safraleine
Cinnamic Aldehyde
8
Tangerine, Florida
Geraniol
4
Santalol
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Girofle Clous Oil
1,000
Citronellol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Lilial
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Acetato Terppinla
Benzyl Iso Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Iso Eugenol
Birch Sweet Essence
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Nectaryl
Vertofix Coeur
CIS Jasmone
Linalol Coeur
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

221

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

ORIENTAL SPICY
Top

Lemon 4 %
Orange 2 %, Jasmin, Cherry .5 %

Fruity

Raspberry .5 %, Melon .5 %, Bergamot 2 %


Middle
Pepper 1 %

Muguet 6.5 %
Carnation 4 %, Rose 9 %, Violet 6 %

Floral Spicy

Jasmin 3 %, Cinnamon 7 %
Base

Musk 3 %
Opoponax 1 %, Myrrh 1 %, Sandalwood 3 %
Moss - Trace

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylae 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 32 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm Spicy

Glen O. Brechbill

222

Oriental Spicy # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

5
10
31
24
8
1
44
8
6
11
12
.1
29
31
14
9
4
3
12
15
4
8
53
306
14
9
12
6
72
4
45
2
1
.3
7

Acetate Iso Eugenol


Coumarin Extra Pure
Benzyl Salicylate
Ethylene Brassylate
Opoponax Base
Thymoxane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Brahmanol
Caryophylline 919
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Moss Oliffac
Eugenol
Benzyl Acetate
alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol
Liral
Bisabolene
Tonka Resinoid
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Benzoato Benzila
Safraleine
Thyme ( Thymol Type )
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Di Propileno Glico
Ionone Alpha 60
Citronellol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Raspberry Ketone
Geraniol
Jasmin Egypt
Muguet Base
Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper
Anisaldehyde
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Geranyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

2
9
6
25
.3
11
6
13
41
1
.2
6
4
9
1
3
.1
1
5
3
22
3
1
2

Eco Friendly Accord


Cinnamon Bark Oil
Jasmolactone Extra C
Orange Oil, Sweet
Tobacco Tincture
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Suderal HT
Terpinyl Acetate
Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop )
Pimento Leaf
Sweet Almond Flower
Benzaldehyde
Clove Oil, Rectified
Linalool
Clemenflor
Melon Oliffac
Coriander Oil Russian
Nerol
Methyl Diantilis
Carnaline
Linalyl Acetate
Girofle Clove Oil
Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
Tangerinol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

223

Oriental Spicy # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

33
2
1
31
10
14
43
28
6
11
9
6
45
31
4
7
5
29
17
3
4
9
2
8
322
3
75
2
9
14
13
3
1
.1
4

Ethylene Brassylate
Heliotropine
Mousse De Chenne
Benzyl Salicylate
Myrrh Resin Substitute
Benzyl Benzoate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Javanol
Bisabolene
Opoponax Base
Pepper Oil Black
Cashmeran
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Poivre 125
Eugenol USP 926
Caryophelline Beta
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Pepperwood
Thymol Crystals
Citronellol - High Purity
Muskylein
Cardamon Oil - Guatemala
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iso - Eugenol
Geraniol 60
Sandalore
Terpinyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Linalol S 927
Cascarilla Oil
Tea Tree Oil
Methyl Cinnimate
Jasmonyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

2
5
.1
43
9
.1
.1
4
5
13
24
3
6
3
6
3
6
29
.5
3
4
2
.1
26

Leather LWS - 3768


Carnation Augaflor 51
Rose Oxide BRI
Lemon Oil, Spanish
Tangerine California FCC
Aldehyde C - 12 Lenic
1, 3, 5 - Undecatriene FCC
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Lysmeral
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Orange Sweet
Benzoin Infusion
Oxanone
Cassia Oliffac
Melonyl 86471 VMF
Florymoss
Benzaldehyde
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Aldehyde C - 20 Raspberry
Jasphene
Cassione
Fraise 3333 SA
Coriander Russian Essence
Linalyl Acetate

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

224

Oriental Spicy # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

1
19
8
4
2
45
3
1
13
29
32
30
11
.1
6
8
3
68
7
52
4
3
11
6
339
7
54
38
.1
4
33
.1
1
3
2

Vanillin
Rhodiascent Extra pure
Opoponax Base
Heliotropine
Black Agar Givco 215
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Bisabolene
Moss Oliffac
Helional
Benzyl Salicylate
Sandela
Benzyle Acetate
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Alcohol C - 10
Poivre 125
Benzyl Benzoate
Safraleine
Geraniol
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Hydroxycitronellal 98 %
Caryophyllene Acetate
Pepper Oil Black
Lyral
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Citronellol
Ionone Intermediate Base
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Rose Crystals
Benzyl Iso Eugenol
Eugenol
Orris Oil
Sage Leaves Oil - France
CIS Jasmone
Aldeido Seringa Sarl

Fragrance Ingredient

5
9
.1
13
6
42
1
3
5
27
3
1
2
.1
4
2
6
.1
14
.3
3
1
.1
.1
1
4

Carnation Augaflor 51
Linalol S 97
Methyl Cinnimate
Acetate De Terpinyle
Tonkarinol
Lemon Oil Italian C.P.
Cassia Natural Essence
Costausol
Tilanol Super
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Fir Needle Oil ( Pine Needle Oil )
Suderal LT
Coriander Oil Russian
Nonadienal
Lavendula Stoechas
Coleus Oil
Raspberry Ketone
Ylang Ylang Super Extra
Linalyl Acetate
Rose - Egypt
Flavoperine
Sweet Pea
Rooibus
Benzoin Abs. - Sumatra
Jeseate
Benzaldehyde

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

225

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fragrance Families

based on Lavender, Fougere,


Oriental, Chypre and Citrus. The Oriental, and Chypre group shares a common theme with women's fragrances

EN'S FRAGRANCES TODAY ARE OPEN TO A MYRIAD OF INTERPRETATIONS

MASCULINE NOTES
Lavender Family:
The fragrances are comprised of a union of lavender, or lavandin notes atop a mossy base with a citrusy
freshness. Fougere Royale by Houbigant was the first scent in this class. The Lavender and Fougere families
are similar often incorporating aroma materials that can be found in either theme. Originally it was intended
for women, but soon found its way to the men's side. Having fresh lavender as the main part of the fragrance
there is less room for creative interpretation. Both fresh and spicy themes predominate.
Lavender Fresh
This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.
Lavender Spicy
Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.
Fougere Family:
The French word for Fern is Fougere. Ferns found in nature have very little odor. Generally the concept is
based on herbaceous materials that include Coumarin, Oak Moss, Lavender and Geranium. They are aromatic
often with a camphoraceous, minty, eucalyptus like with an earthy nuance. They are usually found on lowgrowing, unobtrusively blossoming plants. Other examples include rosemary, sage as well as peppermint and
lavender. It also can be quite representative of a woodland accord.
Fougere Royale first introduced by Houbigant in 1882 was the start of this family. A composition can utiFragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

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226

lize a wide range of aromatic chemicals as mentioned above including a variety of herbs, geranium and ferns.
The group was originally intended for the feminine market. However, it soon found its way to the men's side of
the fragrance isle. There are four sub-divisions in this group headed by Floral, Fresh, Woody and Sweet themes.
Fougere Fresh
This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.
Fougere Floral
The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.
Fougere Woody
This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.
Fougere Sweet
This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.
Oriental Family:
The oriental family of fine fragrances is shared with the women. Scents in this family include amber, vanilla, woods, and resins. Spice materials such as cardamom, nutmeg, caraway, cassia, carnation, cinnamon find
their way in a variety of interesting combinations with a masculine theme. Floral notes such as rose and jasmine including the violet are part of the accord. Bay Oil from the West Indies including Pepper, Basil and
Olibanum are popular base materials. The mystery of the orient gives forth to an interesting, and at the same
time delightful group of fragrances.
Oriental Sweet
An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fragrances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.
Oriental Spicy
Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.
Chypre Family:
A Chypre fragrance was originally created by Francois Coty, and is based on ingredients originally from the
Mediterranean countries. It emphases the contrast between the citrus freshness of bergamot type top notes and
a mossy patchouli base. Chypre perfumes tend to be strong, and aromatic. In the men's side of the family there
are five main groups that have a woody, leathery, coniferous, fresh and green themes. There is a wide range of
accords that can be achieved by combining masculine aroma notes in daring ways. It is reminiscent of those
who love to explore, and enjoy the fresh outdoors.
Chypre Woody
This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.
Chypre Leather
Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.
Chypre Coniferous
A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.
Chypre Fresh
A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.

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228

Chypre Green
The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.
Citrus Family:
This is predominately a man's group of fragrances. Often citrus notes are combined in fine floral fruity
accords to strengthen the top note of this group of fragrances. They are predominately light and fresh with an
overwhelming citrus note such as bergamot, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain, grapefruit, tangerine, and mandarin. Citrus fragrances are refreshing very popular in the summer.
Citrus Floral:
A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note based on the above.
Citrus Fantasy
A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.
Citrus Fresh
A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.
Citrus Green
A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.
Ozone Family:
Oceanic, ozone, watery are an example of a new group of fragrances. Often they are described as things
you can't bottle naturally like ocean spray, mountain air, or freshly laundered clothes. There is a wide range of
fragrant ingredient materials available as outlined below:

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Herbaceous Fragrance Chemicals

Alfania Base # 38228


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Anisyl Formate
Armoise Oil

If a compound based on alfalfa most likely green or herbal.


Mild herbaceous reminiscent of many types of flowers.
Sweet herbaceous green somewhat dry odor.
Herbaceous green.

Basil Oil Commores


Benzcinimal
Benzyl Formate

Fresh, somewhat herbaceous.


Powerful sweet herbaceous, cinnamon spicy odor.
Powerful fruity green herbaceous.

Camomile German
Camomile Moroccan
Camomile Roman
Carvacrol
Carvone Laveo
CIS 3 Hexenyl Benzoate
Cornmint Terpenes
Coumarin
Cuminic Aldehyde
Cyclo Galbonate

Typically sweet, and herbaceous.


Similar to above and below except for a rose, honey.
Characteristic odor of the flowers, fresh, sweet herbaceous.
Penetrating dry medicinal phenolic herbaceous odor.
Warm herbaceous bread like, reminiscent of spearmint oil.
Mild, but tenacious green herbaceous woody odor.
Warm herbaceous bread like, spearmint like.
Sweet, herbaceous warm somewhat spicy odor, dilution - hay like.
Pungent green herbaceous odor.
Strong herbaceous green.

Di Hydro Anethol
Di Hydro Cuminyl Alcohol
Di Methyl Benzyl Carbinyl
Di Methyl Hydro Quinone

Powerful sweet herbaceous.


Warm, herbaceous slightly woody odor.
Warm herbaceous floral.
Warm herbaceous, nut tobacco like.

Ethyl Methacrylate

Very diffusive and penetrating grassy herbaceous odor.

Floropal
Flove Oil

Herbal fresh floral green.


Intensely sweet, coumarin hay like heavy herbaceous odor.

Galbex 183
Gamma Heptalactone
Gamma Octalactone

Woody green herbaceous odor.


Sweet herbaceous nut like.
Sweet herbaceous coconut like.

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Geranium Moroccan
Gyrane

230

Sweet and powerful, rosy leafy slightly herbaceous odor.


A diffusive herbal green type odor.

Herbonal
Herboxane

A fresh garden herb like fragrance.


A faint herbal odor with a sweet dry out.
Hexyl Cyclo Pentanone # 405 Powerful and diffusive dry floral green herbaceous odor.
Hexyl Salicylate
Faint sweet herbaceous floral odor.
Iso Butyl Caproate
Iso Butyl Salicylate
Iso Nonyl Alcohol
Iso Plugeol

Mild herbaceous woody, but over all fruity oily odor.


Sweet harsh herbaceous floral.
Powerful oily herbaceous, dilution - sweet odor.
Minty herbaceous reminiscent of the first smell of tuberose.

Jasmal
Jessemal

Powerful oily herbaceous warm jasmin odor.


Herbaceous floral jasmin.

Labdanum Abs.
Laveo Menthyl Acetate
Lavandin Grosso
Lavender Oil Spiked
Lie De Vin Select

A sweet herbaceous recalling ambergris, slightly animal.


Mild and sweet slightly fruity herbaceous minty odor.
Sweet balsamic herbaceous.
Typically sweet, balsamic and herbaceous.
Harsh herbaceous floral type odor.

Marigold Abs.
Menthanyl Acetate
Methyl Anisate
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Methyl Heptyl Ketone
Methyl Jasmonate
Methyl Lavender Ketone

Intensely bitter herbaceous odor.


Fresh piney citrusy somewhat herbaceous.
Sweet herbaceous delicately floral odor.
Powerful sweet herbaceous cinnamon spicy.
Fruity floral, slightly fruity and herbaceous odor.
Powerful herbaceous floral.
Sweet floral lavender.

Ocimene
Origanum Oil
Orris Resinoid
Ortho Methyl Cinnamic Ald
Oxaspirane

Warh herbaceous and very diffusive odor.


Possesses a tar like herbaceous, but very refreshing odor.
A very herbaceous slightly green floral like odor.
Powerful sweet herbaceous woody camphoraceous, spicy.
Powerful herbal minty camphoraceous.

Patchouli Dark
Patchouli MD
Patchone
Phenyl Ethyl Formate
Phenyl Ethyl Propionate
Phytia Abs.
Piconia

Extremely rich sweet herbaceous aromatic spicy woody.


Very sweet rich spicy aromatic herbaceous balsamic odor.
Extremely dry woody camphoraceous, patchouli like odor.
Powerful green herbaceous rosy odor.
Very warm herbaceous rosy deep fruity.
Powerful floral herbaceous balsamic, not sweet.
Woody, patchouli earthy like.

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Rosemary Oil

Woody herbaceous, reminiscent of spike lavender oil.

Sage Oil Clary


Sage Oil Dalmation
Stemone

Sweet herbaceous tenacious odor.


Fresh strong warm spicy herbaceous, camphoraceous.
Green slightly herbaceous odor.

Taget Abs.
Talin
Tansy Oil
Terpinyl Acetate
Tepyl Acetate
Thyme Oil Red
Thymol Crystals
Tonka Beans Abs.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
T M Cyclo Hexanol Acetate

Intensely herbaceous green with a sweet fruity undertone.


Fruity herbal odor of anise, basil and fennel.
Almost sharp and spicy dry herbaceous odor.
Mildly herbaceous sweet and refreshing.
Oily herbaceous floral, and sweet earthy odor.
Rich sweet powerful, warm herbaceous spicy.
Powerful sweet medicinal herbaceous warm odor.
Sweet herbaceous slightly coumarin.
Powerful herbaceous green, and fresh woody odor.
Mild and sweet minty herbaceous.

Veltonal
Verdyl Propionate
Vetchouli
Violet Abs. French
Violet Abs. Rue
Violet Colorless 54.5219

Strong herbaceous type odor.


Fresh herbal note reminiscent of basil oil.
Green herbaceous odor.
Strong herbaceous floral violet.
Herbaceous floral violet, not as sweet as the french oil.
Herbaceous floral odor of the violet.

Wormwood Oil

Intensely herbaceous green warm and deep.

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232

Masculine Fragrances - Lavender Fresh

LAVENDER FRESH
This group is categorized by a predominate Lavender accord. Supporting notes can come from many areas
opening up this theme to a wide range of creative interpretations.
Lavender 7 %

Top

Orange 5 %, Beramot 4 % - Fruity, Green Notes

Herbaceous

Basil 1 %, Rose
Jasmin 3 %

Middle
Amyl Salicylate 2 %
Terpinyl Acetate 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 5 %

Lilac 1 %, Carnation 4 %, Rose 10 %

Floral

Pine 5 %, Violet 1 %, Muguet 2 %


Vanilla 3 %

Base
Tonka 1 %, Benzoin 1 %, Musk 4 %
Labdanum .5 %
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate .5 %
Benzyl Salicylate .5 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

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233

Lavender Fresh # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

7
5
3
34
11
6
18
7
4
3
25
.1
6
9
4
8
19
8
38
33
26
6
5
28
9
98
6
285
7
1
7
1
56
4
18
36

Benzyl Benzoate
English Leather Base
Iso Bornyl Crystals
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Coumarin
Salicylate De Benzyle
Vanisal
Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG
Iso E Super
Musk Emeressence
Amyl Salicylate
Iso Propyl Quinoline
Black Agar Givco
Iso De Hydro Lavandual
Ethyl, Vanillin
Kephalis
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Terpineol Prime
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Hercolin - D
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Jessemal
Labdanum Resinoid
Fir Needle Oil Canadian
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Geraniol
Sandela
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Cedrenyl Acetate
Benzophenone
Lyral
Mahagonate
Lavender Oil Std.
Eugenol
Terpinyl Acetate
Galaxolide 50

Fragrance Ingredient

9
11
.1
23
.4
14
1
3
14
5
3
11
.1
28
4
.1
6
.3
1
1
.1
1
.1
3
.1

Ionone Beta
Citrus Lavender Base
Birch Tar Rectified
Citronellol
cis - 3 - Hexenyl Salicylate
Bergamot Substitute
Lyral
Rosemary Oil Tunisian
Lianlool
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Diola
Leather Base FM 1064
Rose Oxide L
Linalyl Acetate
Herbonal
Aldehyde C - 8
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Rose Acetate
Massada
Nonadienal
Rosimariff
Leaf Alcohol
Sage Sclarel - Russia
Costus Oliffac

1,000

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234

Lavender Fresh # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

14
9
33
5
11
16
28
5
4
.1
52
.1
9
43
8
28
12
47
9
22
1
3
8
4
75
1
304
1
13
6
5
1
.1
19
11
8
3

Benzyl Benzoate
Coumane
Vanillina
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Benzoin Siam Resinoid 50 % DPG
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Musk Ambrette Substitute
Cedraclaire
Benzylsalicylate
Iso Propylene Quinoline
Hedione
Earth
Musk Gazalle
Hercolyn - D
Levanalis
Ethyl Vanllin
Lilial
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Jasmin Province Base
Citronelol
Iso Propyl Quinoline
Rosalyptus
Lavender Oliffac
Cedrenyl Acetate
Geraniol
Pelargene
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Mousse De Chenne
Methyl Ionone Beta
Tonalid II
English Leather Base
Benzophenone
Phenylacetaldehyde
Amyl Salicylate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Lindenol
Lavandulas

Fragrance Ingredient

22
.1
.1
7
3
.2
5
1
48
53
3
2
1
3
.1
5
.1
1
4
2
3

Acetate De Terpinyle
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Nonadienal
beta - Ionone
Santalyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 Laurico
Hyacinth PP
Drywood Augaflor
Orange - Belize
Lavender Fleurs 40/42 % FCC
Santalyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Suderal LT
Sage Oil Clary
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauryl
Verdyl Acetate
Rose Oxide L
Petilyn
Bergamot C.P.
Vertocinth
Khovane

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

235

Lavender Fresh # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

9
33
8
13
26
3
.1
7
4
3
22
9
34
42
45
17
4
2
39
6
5
3
4
5
21
14
295
65
6
11
6
57
1
.2
6

Iso E Super
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzoato Benzila
Cedro Virginia
Vanilina
Alicate
Iso Propyl Quinoline
Benzyle Salicylate
Iso Bornyl Crystals
Benzoin Resinoid
Amyl Salicylate
Fir Needle Oil
Benzyl Acetate
Hercolyn - D
Carnation Base
Ethyl Vanillin
Tonka Resinoid
Woodynol - I
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Rhodia Scent
Citronellol
Hydro Carbon Resin SB
Di Methyl Octnaol
Musk Gx 50 % DEP
Lyral
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Tonalid I
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Hexyl Salicylate
Lavender 40/52
Styrallyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Diola

Fragrance Ingredient

1
4
19
6
11
9
2
4
1
.1
52
1
17
6
.2
1
27
4
3
1
1
.1
1
3
.3

Carnation Leaves Essence


Sage Oil, Dalmatian
Terpinyl Acetate
Ethyl Geranate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Linalool
Carnaline
Verdyl Acetate
Costus Oliffac
Aldehyde Supra
Orange Oil, Sweet
Cyclal - C
Fir Needle Canada
Verdyl Propionate
Iralia
Costus Oliffac
Linalyl Acetate
Jessemal
Geranyl Acetate
Petilyn
Cyclemone A
Folione
Cedrafix
Rosemary Spain
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA

1,000

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Masculine Fragrances - Lavender Spicy

LAVENDER SPICY
Again Lavender is the dominate theme. However added to it is a pine like spiciness with a herbaceous tone
centered on the fresh flower. It is generally found its way in many masculine applications possessing a wide
range of different themes.
Top

Lavender 6 %
Petitgrain 2 %, Bergamot 4 %, Clary Sage 1 %

Fresh Herbaceous

Lemon 3 %, Basil 1 %
Middle

Rose 5 %

Vetiver 1 %
Lily of the Valley 4 %, Carnation 3 %, Jasmin 5 %
Terpinyl Acetate - Trace
Cinnamic Alcohol - Trace
Geranium 2 %, Fern 1 %, Fir 3 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Patchouli 2 %
Base
Musk 2 %, Sandalwood 4 %, Leather 2 %
Labdanum 1 %, Cedar 3 %, Amber - Trace, Moss - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Floral

Sweet Mossy

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237

Lavender Spicy # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

22
5
3
11
12
28
43
9
3
11
22
29
7
16
29
14
5
3
4
7
12
53
24
39
2
319
6
.3
4
2
17
9
3
1
1

Benzyl Benzoate
Cedryl Acetate
Benzophenone
Amber Substitute
Patchouli Oil MD
Benzyl Salicylate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Iso & Super
Alcool Cinamico
Coumane
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cedarwood Himalayan
Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG
Carnation Base
Sandalwood Mysore
Ionone Beta Coeur
Cade Oil
Claryfol
Diola
Citronellol
Organic Shampoo Base
Benzyle Acetate
Eugenol
Geraniol
Verdantiol
Di Propileno Glico
Turpntine Oil Steam Distilled
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Koavonne
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay
Hexyle Salicylate
Suderal LT
Cirtronellyl Acetate
Safraleine

Fragrance Ingredient

12
5
34
3
22
.3
5
3
62
6
5
3
9
.1
3
5
7
4
21
3
1
5
7

Citrus Lavender Base


Sage Oil, Solvia Officia
Lemon Oil South African
Caraway ( Carvi )
Linalool
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Grapefruit White
Acetate De Terpenyle
Lavender French Alpine
Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast
Verdyl Acetate
Green Ivy Givco 168
Fir Needle Oil Chinese
Rose Oxide L
Dipteryx Odorata
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
Methyl Amyl Ketone
Herbon
Linalyl Acetate
Syringa
Methyl Chavicol
Vetiver Acetate Java
Ocimene PQ

1,000

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Lavender Spicy # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
5
3
11
12
28
54
9
3
11
27
24
7
16
29
14
5
3
4
5
14
53
21
42
2
320
6
.3
4
1
15
9
5

Benzyl Benzoato
Cedrol Liquid 65
Benzophenone
Amberwood
Patchone
Benzyl Salicylate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Iso & Super
Alcool Cinamico
Coumane
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cedarwood Oil Texas Light
Labdanum Resinoid
Carnation Base
Sandalwood Mysore
Ionone Beta Coeur
Leather LWS - 3768
Claryfol
Diola
Citronellol 750
Heidera Base
MDJ
Eugenol
Geraniol
Veraflor
Di Propileno Glico
Turpntine Oil - Viet Nam
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Kephalis
Sandalore
Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay
Hexyle Salicylate
Suderal HT

Fragrance Ingredient

1
1
12
5
34
3
19
.3
8
3
62
6
5
1
11
.1
3
5
7
4
21
3
1
5
7

Citronellyl Acetate
Bisabolene
Citrus Lavender Base
Sage Oil, Solvia Officia
Lemon Oil South African
Caraway ( Carvi )
Linalool
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Grapefruit White
Acetate De Terpenyle
Lavender French Alpine
Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast
Verdyl Acetate
Green Ivy Givco 168
Fir Needle Oil Chinese
Rose Oxide L
Dipteryx Odorata
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
Methyl Amyl Ketone
Herbon
Linalyl Acetate
Syringa
Methyl Chavicol
Vetiver Acetate Java
Ocimene PQ

1,000

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239

Lavender Spicy # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

10
5
3
11
12
26
45
9
3
14
21
27
5
18
31
16
5
1
4
7
10
50
24
42
2
331
6
.3
4
2
17
9
3
1

Benzyl Benzoato
Cedrol Liquid 65
Benzophenone
Amber Substitute
Patchouly Madagascar
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Iso & Super
Alcool Cinamico
Coumane
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cedarwood Himalayan
Labdanum Resinoid 50 %/DPG
Carnation Base
Sandalwood Mysore
Ionone Beta Coeur
Leather LWS - 3768
Claryfol
Diola
Citronellol 850
Organic Shampoo Base
Benzyl Acetate
Eugenol
Geraniol 60
Oncidal
Di Propileno Glico
Turpntine Oil - West Virginia
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Kephalis
Chandanone
Petitgrain Bigarade Tree Oil - Paraguay
Hexyle Salicylate
Suderal LT
Citronellyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

1
9
5
31
3
22
.3
5
3
65
6
5
3
9
.1
3
5
10
4
21
2
1
6
7

Bisabolene
Citrus Lavender Base
Sage Oil French
Lemon Oil South African
Caraway Oil Holland
Linalool
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Grapefruit White
Acetate De Terpenyle
Lavender French Alpine
Bergamot Oil - Ivory Coast
Verdyl Acetate
Green Ivy Givco 168
Fir Needle Oil Chinese
Rose Oxide L
Dipteryx Odorata
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
Methyl Amyl Ketone
Herbon
Linalyl Acetate
Syringa
Methyl Chavicol
Vetiver Acetate
Amyl Salicylate

1,000

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240

Masculine Fragrances - Fougere Fresh

FOUGERE FRESH
This group has a predominate lavender freshness. Many of today's fragrances have utilized a dry-fresh
approach that can often incorporate a variety of different accords.
Bergamot 5 %

Top

Lavender 7 %, Anise 1 %, Clay Sage 1.5 %

Fresh Herbaceous

Lemon 3 %, Rosemary .5 %, Artemisia 1 %


Cedar 3 %

Middle
Vetiver 3 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Base

Geranium 2 %, Jasmin 4 %, Rose 6 %

Floral Woody

Sandalwood 3 %, Carnation 4 %
Patchouli 3 %
Amber .5 %, Oakmoss - Trace, Tonka 6 %
Musk 3 %, Leather 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 29 %

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Mossy Leathery

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

241

Fougere Fresh # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

53
22
1
3
5
47
29
8
31
39
28
15
27
11
4
12
26
3
4
6
5
38
6
3
12
13
41
6
307
4
3
8
10
.3

Rhodiascent Extra Pure


Benzoato Benzila
Lichen ( Moss )
Cedrenyl Acetate
Amber Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Dark
English Leather Base
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Benzyle Acetate
Galaxolide 50
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
Jessemal
Organic Shampoo Base
Tonka Feve Resinoide
Di Methyl Ionone
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Eucalyptus Radiata
Herbaflorat
Citronellol 750
Morillol
Vetiver Extender
Serenolide
Benzophenone
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Fir Needle Oil Canadian
Geraniol
Hawthorn
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Green Ivy Givco
Citrus Lavender Base
Sage Spain
Aldeido C - 12 Laurico

Fragrance Ingredient

1
19
4
2
3
2
.3
.3
1
4
25
1
4
38
6
8
16
1
.1
3
2
4
5
3
9
5

Guaiyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Anisyl Alcohol
Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia
Citronellyl Acetate
Romarin Afrique de Nord
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Peppermint Oil - American
Methyl Camomile
Linalol
Carnaline
Vetiver Acetate
Lemon Oil Argentina
Methyl Chavicole
Anethole
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Cedrylone
Rose Oxide L
Sandela
Pepper, White
Syringa
Rhodiascent
Tonkarinol
Methyl Ionone Beta
Claryfol

1,000

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242

Fougere Fresh # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

53
18
1
6
5
46
20
10
31
44
28
19
22
11
6
10
24
3
4
8
7
30
8
1
12
15
36
6
316
4
3
13
10
.3
1
19

Coumarin Substitute
Benzoato Benzila
Mousse De Metre
Cedrenyl Acetate
Amber Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Oil - Indonesia
English Leather Base
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Acetato De Benzyl
Galaxolide 50
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
Jessemal
Organic Shampoo Base
Tonka Feve Resinoide
Di Methyl Ionone
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Eucalyptus Radiata
Herbaflorat
Citronellol
Morillol
Vetiver Extender
Cashmeran
Rose Crystals
Ionone Beta
Fir Needle Oil Canadian
Geraniol 99 %
Hawthorn
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Green Ivy Givco
Citrus Lavender Base
Sage Spain
Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
Guaiyl Acetate
Phenylethylalcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

4
2
1
5
.3
.3
1
6
26
1
4
33
6
8
17
1
.1
3
2
4
5
3
9
5

Anisyl Alcohol
Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia
Citronellyl Acetate
Romarin Afrique de Nord
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Peppermint Oil - American
Hexyl Salicylate
Linalol
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Vetiveryl Acetate
Lemon Oil Argentina
Methyl Chavicole
Anethole
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Cedrylone
Rose Oxide L
Santalol
Pepper Oil India
Syringa
Rhodiascent Extra Pure
Tonkarinol
y - Irone
Claryfol

1,000

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243

Fougere Fresh # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

43
22
1
6
5
42
29
10
31
44
28
15
22
11
3
10
24
3
4
8
5
38
6
3
12
10
44
9
315
1
3
13
10
.3
1
13

Cou Marin
Benzoato Benzila
Moss Olifac
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Amber Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Oil MD
English Leather Base
Benzyl Salicylate
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Traseolide
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
Jessemal
Organic Shampoo Base
Tonka Feve Resinoide
Di Methyl Ionone
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Eucalyptus Radiata
Herbaflorat
Citronellol
Morillol
Vetiver Extender
Serenolide
Benzophenone
Methyl Ionone Beta
Alpha Pinene
Geraniol
Aubepine ( Anisic Aldehyde )
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Sandalore
Green Ivy Givco
Citrus Lavender Base
Sage Morocco
Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
Guaiyl Acetate
Pheny Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

4
2
1
5
.3
.3
1
16
24
2
4
35
6
8
17
1
.1
3
2
4
5
3
9
1

Anisyl Alcohol
Genievre Basil Oil Yugoslavia
Citronellyl Acetate
Romarin Afrique de Nord
Aldehyde C - 11 Iso
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Peppermint Oil - American
Alicate
Linalol
Iso Eugenol
Vetiveryl Acetate
Lemon Oil Argentina
Methyl Chavicole
Anethole
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Cedrylone
Rose Oxide L
Santalol
Pepper, White
Syringa
Rhodiascent
Tonkarinol
Ionone Beta
Claryfol

1,000

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244

Masculine Fragrances - Fougere Floral

FOUGERE FLORAL
The fougere floral theme can incorporate a variety of different components. This can include combinations
of dry fresh lavender often utilizing muguet, cyclamen and spicy woody notes.
Top

Artemesia 3 %
Lavender 7 %, Green Notes 1 %, Laurel 2 %

Fresh Herbaceous

Rosemary 1 %, Petitgrain 3 %, Basil 1 %, Aldehydes 1 %,


Middle

Rose 4 %

Oncidal .5 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Green Ivy Givco .5 %
Vetiver 4 %

Geranium 1 %, Carnation 4 %, Fern 1.5 %

Herbaceous Floral

Jasmin 4 %, Lily 1 %
Moss - Trace

Base
Amber .5 %, Labdanum 2 %, Cedar 2 %, Fir 1 %

Mossy Powdery

Tonka 6 %, Styrax .5 %, Benzoin 1 %


Herbs:
Armoise, Basil, Bucchu, Camphor, Cedar Leaf, Chamomile, Eucalyptus, Hay, Hyssop, Juniper Berry,
Lavandin, Lavender, Oregano, Parsley, Pennyroyal, Peppermint, Pine, Rosemary, Sage Clary, Spearmint,
Spruce, Tansy, Tarragon, Thyme.
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

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245

Fougere Floral # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
55
3
1
38
21
8
23
34
19
42
9
1
4
38
10
1
23
6
32
8
1
13
29
4
306
3
8
21
5
.3
4
9
1
72
.1

Evernyl ( Lichen )
Coumarin Extra Pure
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Amber Base
Musk 50 DPG
Benzyl Salicylate
Styrax Resinoid
Cedar, Leaves / Toya
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Labdanum Resinoid
Benzyl Acetate
Benzoin Base
Eucalyptol 97
Herbaflorat
Vetiver Extender
Fir Needle Oil Canadian
Rose Crystals
Cedarwood Oil Atlas
Diola
Eugenol
Citronellol
Herboxane
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Geraniol 98
Oncidal
Di Propileno Glico
Koavonne
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
Veraflor
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Sandalore
Hexyl Salicylate
Styrallyl Acetate
Lavender Dalmatian
Phenyl Acetaldehyde

Fragrance Ingredient

4
10
8
5
7
6
1
5
31
3
1
4
7
.5
1
1
27
5
3
4
5
2
1

Aubepine
Oak Base
Laurel Oil
Carnaline
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Fir Balsam Artesence
Lilie
Dianthanol
Petitgrain Mandarin Oil
Methyl Chavicole
Terpinyl Acetate
Rosemary Tunisia
Verdyl Propionate
Pomarose
Caryophelline
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Artemesia
Verdyl Acetate
Scennal
Sage Leaves Oil - France
Eugenyl Acetate
Citronellyl Acetate
Iridales

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

246

Fougere Floral # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
50
3
5
30
22
3
23
41
19
35
9
5
4
38
10
1
31
6
32
8
1
13
29
4
303
3
8
21
5
.3
4
9
1
72

Moss Oliffac
Coumarin Substitute
Acetyl Iso Eugenol
Amber Base
Musk 50 DEP
Benzylsalicylate
Styrax Resin
Cedar, Leaves / Toya
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Labdanum Resinoide
MDJ
Benzoin Base
Eucalyptus Oil
Herbaflorat
Vetiver Extender
Fir Needle Oil Chinese
Rosone
Cedarwood Oil Port Orford
Lavandonat
Eugenol
Citronellol
Herboxane
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Geraniol 98
Oncidal
Di Propileno Glico
Koavonne
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
Verdantiol
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Sandalore
Hexyl Salicylate
Styrallyl Acetate
Lavender Dalmatian

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
8
6
8
5
7
6
3
5
27
3
1
2
7
.5
1
1
31
5
3
4
5
2
1

Phenyl Acetaldehyde
Aubepine
Oak Base
Laurel Oil
Carnaline
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Fir Balsam Artesence
Amyl Salicylate
Methyl Diantilis
Petitgrain Mandarin Oil
Methyl Chavicole
Terpinyl Acetate
Rosemary Tunisia
Verdyl Propionate
Diola
Iso - Eugenol
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Artemesia
Verdyl Acetate
Stemone
Sage Leaves Oil - France
Eugenyl Acetate
Citronellyl Acetate
Iridales

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

247

Fougere Floral # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
58
3
5
34
19
3
23
43
15
42
9
3
4
40
8
1
23
6
27
8
1
18
25
2
307
1
8
21
5
.3
4
9
1
72

Moss Oliffac
Coumarin Substitute
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Amberwood
Musk 50 DEP
Benzyl Salicylate 98 % China
Styrax Coeur
Cedarwood Oil Texas Light
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Labdanum Resinoid
Benzyle Acetate
Benzoin Resinoid
Alpha Fenchyl Alcohol
Herbaflorat
Vetiver Extender
Fir Needle Oil Austria
Rose Crystals
Cedrenyl Acetate
Lavandonat
Eugenol 100 %
Citronellol 750
Herboxane
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Geraniol 98
Veraflor
Di Propileno Glico
Koavonne
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehdye
Veraflor
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Sandalore
Hexyl Salicylate
Styrallyl Acetate
Lavender Oil 40/42

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
8
6
8
5
7
6
3
5
24
3
1
4
7
.5
1
1
32
5
3
4
5
2
1

Phenyl Acetaldehyde
Anisicaldehyde
Oak Base
Laurel Oil
Carnation Augaflor 23
Lavender Oliffac
Fir Balsam Artesence
Scennal
Methyl Diantilis
Petitgrain Mandarin Oil
Methyl Chavicole
Terpinyl Acetate
Rosemary Tunisia
Verdyl Propionate
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Eugenyl Acetate
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Artemesia
Verdyl Acetate
Amyl Salicylate
Sage Leaves Oil - France
Eugenyl Acetate
Citronellyl Acetate
Iridales

1,000

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248

FOUGERE FLORAL
Lavender 7 %

Top

Rosemary 2 %, Bergamot 4 %, Petitgrain 1.5 %

Fresh Herbaceous

Laurel 2 %, Basil 5 %, Lemon 5 %


Geranium 2 %

Middle
Oncidal 1 %
Green Ivy 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %
Base

Carnation 3 %, Rosewood - Trace, Jasmi 4 %

Floral

Cedarwood 2 %, Fern 4 %
Moss - Trace
Musk 2 %, Amber - Trace, Tonka 5 %

Styrax 1 %, Labdanum 2 %, Leather 1.5 %, Benzoin .75 %


Bases - English Leather, Lilac, Citrus Lavender, Carnation, Organic Shampoo
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 3 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Mossy Ambery

249

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Floral # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
2
32
1
1
33
7
48
11
21
5
26
.1
5
12
11
15
8
.1
15
9
18
9
13
13
7
17
13
9
334
5
7
1
35
7
9
4
6

Fragrance Ingredient

Cade Oil
13
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Benzophenone
3
Methyl Geranate
Benzoato Benzila
9
Citrus Lavender Base
Amberwood
15
Verdyl Propionate
Mousse De Chenne
3
Rosemary Tunisia
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
.2
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Cedryl Acetate 50 %
13
Organic Shampoo Base
Coumarin
4
Methyl Cedrylone
English Leather Base
3
Pepper White
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
.3
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Eucalyptus Globulos 70
3
Vetyver Acetate Haiti
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
75
Lavender True Organic
Iso Propyl Quinoline
.3
Piconia
Di Isopropyl Phenol
4
Sage Oil Dalmatian
Benteine
8
Methyl Ionone Beta
Lilac Base
7
Verdyl Acetate
Lyral
11
Terpineol Prime
Lilie
4
Methyl Chavocle
Lavender Abs.
14
Linalool
Vertenex
6
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Oncidal
27
Linalyl Acetate
Carnation Base
.1
Folione
Methyl Ionone Beta
3
Methyl Heptone Ketone
Citronellol 850 - IFF
5
Veraflor
Carnation Base
1
Stemone
Beta Ionone R
4
Laurel ( Bay Laurel )
Geraniol
Labdanum Resinoid
Styrax Pure
1,000
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Diola
Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
Methyl Camomile
Hedione
Herbenal
Green Ivy Givco 168
Drywood Augaflor
Citronellyl Acetate
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250

Fougere Floral # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
3
28
1
1
43
7
51
11
25
3
22
.1
5
12
11
15
8
.1
17
9
18
7
15
18
7
15
9
9
325
3
7
1
37
5
11
2

Birch Tar Oil


Benzophenone
Benzoato Benzila
Amberwood ABQ 5583
Mousse De Metre
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedryl Acetate Crystals
Coumarin
English Leather Base
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
Eucalyptus Globulos 70
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iso Propyl Quinoline
2, 6 Xylenol
Benteine
Lilac Base
Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal
Lilie
Tobacco Absolute
Vertenex - IBCH Acetate
Oncidal
Carnation Base
Beta Ionone R
Citronellol Pure
Carnation Base
Beta Ionone R
Geraniol 98 %
Labdanum Resinoide
Styrax Pure
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Diola
Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
Methyl Camomile
Hedione
Herbenal
Green Ivy Givco 168
Drywood Augaflor

Fragrance Ingredient

6
13
3
8
19
3
.2
12
1
3
.3
4
72
.3
7
14
7
9
4
11
6
30
.1
3
7
1
2

Citronellyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Geranate
Citrus Lavender Base
Verdyl Propionate
Rosemary Oil Spanish
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Organic Shampoo Base
Methyl Cedrylone
Pepper White
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Vetyver Acetate Haiti
Lavender True Organic
Piconia
Sage Oil Dalmatian
Methyl Ionone Beta
Verdyl Acetate
Terpineol ( Perfumery Grade )
Methyl Chavocle
Linalol S 97
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Linalyl Acetate
Nonadienal
Methyl Heptone Ketone
Sandela
Stemone
Laurel ( Bay Laurel )

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

251

Fougere Floral # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
6
28
1
1
43
7
48
11
21
5
26
.1
5
12
11
15
8
.1
15
9
18
7
15
18
7
15
13
9
319
5
7
1
35
7
11

Birch Tar Oil


Benzophenone
Benzoato Benzila
Amberwood ABQ 5583
Mousse De Metre
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedryl Acetate Crystals
Coumarin
English Leather Base
Benzyl Salicylate 98 %
Eucalyptus Globulos 70
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iso Propyl Quinoline
2, 6 Xylenol
Benteine
Lilac Base
Hydroxy Citronellal Di Ethyl Acetal
Lilie
Tobacco Absolute
Vertenex - IBCH Acetate
Oncidal
Carnation Base
Beta Ionone R
Citronellol
Carnation Base
Beta Ionone R
Geraniol Pur
Labdanum Resinoid
Styrax Pure
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Diola
Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
Methyl Camomile
Hedione
Herbenal
Green Ivy Givco 168

Fragrance Ingredient

2
6
13
1
12
23
3
.2
13
2
1
.3
5
70
.3
4
8
7
11
2
14
8
27
.1
3
5
1
4

Drywood Augaflor
Citronellyl Acetate
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Geranate
Citrus Lavender Base
Verdyl Propionate
Rosemary Tunisia
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Organic Shampoo Base
Methyl Cedrylone
Pepper White
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Vetyver Acetate Haiti
Lavender True Organic
Patchone
Sage Oil Dalmatian
Methyl Ionone Beta
Verdyl Acetate
Syringa
Methyl Chavocle
Linalool
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Linalyl Acetate
Violet Leaves
Methyl Heptone Ketone
Veraflor
Scennal
Laurel ( Bay Laurel )

1,000

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252

Masculine Fragrances - Fougere Woody

FOUGERE WOODY
This is a predominate woody theme. However, to keep the fragrance a fougere woody materials have to be
used that are part of this group. Sub divisions within this family can include ones with a leather, tobacco and
animal materials.
Top
Oncidal .5 %
Veraflor .5 %

Lavender 6 %
Bergamot 4 %, Anise 1 %, Basil 1.5 %, Lemon 3 %

Fresh Herbaceous

Clary Sage 1 %, Artemesia 1 %, Petitgrain 2 %


Middle

Cedarwood 4 %

Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Fir Needle Oil 3 %, Jasmin 1.5 %, Carnation 1 %
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %
Iso E Super 3 %
Fern 1 %, Pine 3 %, Rose 2 %, Violet 4 %
Base

Floral Woody

Sandalwood 5 %
Tree Moss - Trace, Vanilla .5 %, Vetiver 3 %, Tonka 4 %
Labdanum 1 %, Amber - Trace, Benzoin .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Ambery Mossy

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

253

Fougere Woody # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

11
37
38
5
1
4
51
18
7
6
1
14
9
6
35
1
11
16
6
5
3
8
3
15
331
41
5
22
3
9
10
9
29
32
3
7

Benzyl Benzoate
Coumane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
Amber Substitute
Vanillin
Sandalwood Givco 203
Benzyle Salicylate
Alpha Pinene
Cedrenyl Acetate
Labdanum Resinoid
Vetamber ( Kephalis )
Amyl Salicylate
Oncidal
Vetiver Extender
Bois de Rose
Organic Shampoo Base
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Patchouli Crude
Beta Pinene
Ethyl, Vanillin
Fir Needle Oil
Citronellol
MDJ
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Cedarwood Oil - US
Anethole USP
Geraniol 60 %
Dihydro Cyclacet
Ionone Beta Coeur
Iso E Super
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Iso Bornyl Acetate
Lemon Oil Washed
Lyrame
Phenylethylalcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
5
17
.3
4
.1
6
5
1
.1
70
8
.1
24
1
3
5
.1
4
1
16
3
2
6
3
4
.1
.1

Vertimoss
Citronellyl Acetate
Petitgrain Citronee Oil
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Ocimene PQ
Cedarwood Essence
Herbavert
Drywood Augaflor
Ocimum Basilicum L.
Rose Oxide L
Lavender Bourbon
Methyl Cedrylone
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Linalol 925
Pinhero Anao
Methyl Chavicole
Levenalis
Folione
Clary Sage
Trimofix
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Woodinyl Acetate
Clove Bud Oil
Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan
Fir Needle Oil Canadian
Cedryl Acetate
Benzoin Abs.
Horseradish Oil

1,000

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254

Fougere Woody # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

10
33
41
5
1
4
49
23
5
4
1
14
9
8
38
1
11
9
6
5
3
5
3
13
346
32
5
24
1
8
8
13
29
32
3
10
.1
3

Fragrance Ingredient

Benzyl Benzoate
19
Petitgrain Citronee Oil
Coumane
.3
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
8
Ocimene PQ
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
.1
Cedarwood Essence
Amber Substitute
6
Herbavert
Vanisal
2
Drywood Augaflor
Sandalwood Extender
3
Ocimum Basilicum L.
Benzyle Salicylate
.1
Rose Oxide L
Alpha Pinene
62
Lavender Oil 40/42
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
8
Methyl Cedrylone
Labdanum Resinoid
.1
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Iso E Super
28
Linalool
Amyl Salicylate
1
Alpha Pinene
Oncidal
1
Rosemary Oil Maroc
Vetiver Extender
5
Levenalis
Bois de Rose
.1
Folione
Organic Shampoo Base
4
Clary Sage USA Oil
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
2
Trimofix
Patchouli Oil MD
17
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Alpha Pinene
8
Woodinyl Acetate
Ethyl Vanillin
2
Clove Stem Oil
Fir Needle Oil
6
Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan
Citronellol
3
Massada
Benzyl Acetate FCC
4
Cedryl Acetate 50 %
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
.1
Benzoin Abs.
Cedarwood Oil - US
.1
Javanol
Anethole USP
Geraniol 60 %
Hexyle Salicylate
1,000
Methyl Ionone Beta
Iso E Super
Eugenol
Iso Bornyl Acetate
Lemon Oil California
Hidroxicitronelal
Phenyle Ethyl Alcohol
Vertimoss
Geranium Oil Egyptian
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Fougere Woody # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

22
34
32
3
1
4
47
23
7
4
1
14
6
5
35
1
11
22
6
5
3
8
3
14
334
38
5
22
3
9
10
9
29
34
3
7
.1
1

Fragrance Ingredient

Benzyl Benzoate
19
Petitgrain Citronee Oil
Rhodiascent
.3
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
8
Ocimene PQ
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
.1
Cedarwood Essence
Ambrox DL Coeur
6
Herbavert
Vanisal
5
Drywood Augaflor
Sandec
3
Ocimum Basilicum L.
Benzyle Salicylate
.1
Rose Oxide Inactive
Alpha Pinene
64
Lavender Chinese
Cedraclaire
8
Methyl Cedrylone
Labdanum Resinoid
.1
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
( Kephalis )
24
Linalol 925
Amyl Salicylate
1
Pinhero Anao
Oncidal
3
Methyl Chavicole
Vetiver Extender
5
Diola
Palmarosa Oil
.1
Folione
Organic Shampoo Base
4
Clary Sage Oil Spanish
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
1
Sandalore
Patchouli Oil Indonesia
16
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate
Beta Pinene
3
Woodinyl Acetate
Ethyl Vanillin
2
Clove Bud Oil
Fir Needle Oil
6
Artemisia Vulgaris Moroccan
Citronellol
3
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Benzyle Acetate
4
Cedryl Acetate 50 %
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
.1
Benzoin Abs.
Cedarwood Oil Virginia
.1
Alpha Damascone
Anethole USP
Geraniol 60 %
Dihydro Cyclacet
1,000
Ionone Beta Coeur
Iso E Super
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Iso Bornyl Acetate
Lemon Oil California
Lyral
Phenylethylalcohol
Lichen
Citronellyl Acetate
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256

Masculine Fragrances - Fougere Sweet

FOUGERE SWEET
This division has a predominate lavender interpretation usually built on the tonka bean otherwise known
today as coumarin. Depending on who smells the fragrance it can be sweet, fresh and yet woody depending on
the percentages of fragrance ingredients utilized.
Top

Lavender 7 %

Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric

Bergamot 4 %, Rosemary 1 %, Laurel %

Herbaceous

Thyme - Trace, Basil 2 %


Middle

Carnation 5 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %

Jasmin 7 %, Muguet 2 %

Floral Spicy

Geranium 2 %, Rose 4 %
Base

Musk 2 %
Tonka 3 %, Sandalwood 5 %, Amber - Trace
Patchouli 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

257

Fougere Sweet # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

20
17
7
2
1
8
29
19
36
10
17
.1
33
5
3
15
7
18
6
10
39
19
5
4
15
5
9
315
10
2
68
75
16
11
3
9

Benzyle Benzoate
Musk NC
Tonka Substitute
Benzophenone
Mousse De Chenne
Patchluli Oil Light
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Coumarin Crystals Extra Pure
Osyrol
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iso Propyl Quinoline
Carnation Base
Cashemran
Fir Balsam Canadian
Oak Base
Herboxane
Eugenol
Kephalis
Heidera Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cedrenyl Acetate
Prenol
Organic Shampoo Base
Citronellol
Lyral
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
b - Irone
Benteine
Benzyl Acetate
Lavender ( Bulgaria )
Linalol Synthetic FCC
Helional
Rosmary Oil Morocco
Hexyle Salicylate

Fragrance Ingredient

14
27
.3
10
9
4
15
.1
.1
4
2
.1
5
3
17
1
5
.3
19
1
2
4
1

Bergamot Oil Substitute


Geraniol 98 %
Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
Verdyl Acetate
Citrus Lavender Base
Iso Nonyl Acetate
Terpinyl Acetate
Undecatriene
Rose Oxide L
Carnaline
Safraleine - Givaudan
Birch Tar Oil - Rectified
Ionone Alpha Refined
Thyme Oil White
Verdyl Propionate
Celery Seed Oil - India
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Aldehyde Supra
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Chavicole
Syringa
Eugenyl Acetate
Tea Tree Oil

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

258

Fougere Sweet # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

10
17
9
3
1
8
26
19
48
10
19
.1
14
2
1
15
7
40
6
10
39
19
7
5
12
5
15
314
10
4
68
72
14
4
3
12

Benzyl Benzoate
Musk Ketone
Tonka Substitute
Geranium Rose - China
Mousse De Metre
Patchluli Oil MD
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Alicate
Sandela
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iso Butyl Quinoline
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Traseolide - Quest
Fir Balsam Oil
Oak Base
Herboxane
Eugenol
Kephalis
Heidera Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cedrenyl Acetate
Vernol
Organic Shampoo Base
Citronellol 850 - IFF
Lyral
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
a - Ionone
Meijiff
Super Cepionate
Lavender ( Bulgaria )
Linalol Synthetic FCC
Helional
Rosmary Oil
Hexyle Salicylate

Fragrance Ingredient

16
27
.3
10
9
4
12
.1
.1
4
2
.1
5
1
17
1
4
.3
23
1
2
4
1

Bergamot Oil Substitute


Geraniol 60
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Verdyl Acetate
Citrus Lavender Base
Pampleousse
Terpinyl Acetate
Undecatriene
Rose Oxide L
Carnaline
Poivre 125
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Ionone Alpha 60
Thyme Oil - Spanish
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
Celery Seed Oil - India
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate
Phenylacetaldenyde
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Chavicole
Syringa
Eugenyl Acetate
Basilic

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

259

Fougere Sweet # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

14
17
6
3
1
8
28
14
45
10
19
.1
14
5
1
20
4
38
6
8
41
19
7
5
12
5
19
303
12
4
68
72
14
11
3

Benzyl Benzoate
Ethylene Brassylate
Coumane
Benzophenone
Mousse De Chenne
Patchluli Oil Light
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Di Hydro Coumarex
Sandela
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Earth
Iso - Eugenol
Musk Emeressence
Fir Balsam Anhydrol Inco 5
Oak Base
Herboxane
Eugenol - Indonesia
Kephalis
Heidera Base
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cedrenyl Acetate
Prenol
Organic Shampoo Base
Citronellol
Lyral
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
y - Irone
Benteine
Hedione
Lavender ( Bulgaria )
Linalol Synthetic FCC
Helional
Rosmary Oil Morocco

Fragrance Ingredient

9
8
27
.3
12
9
3
16
.1
.1
4
2
.1
5
3
17
1
8
.3
23
1
2
4
1

Ocimene
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Geraniol 60
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Verdyl Acetate
Citrus Lavender Base
Vanoris
Terpinyl Acetate
Undecatriene
Rose Oxide D
Rhodiascent
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Pepperwood - Givaudan
Ionone Beta
Thyme Oil - Spanish
Verdyl Propionate
Celery Seed Oil - India
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Aldehyde Supra
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl Chavicole
Syringa
Eugenyl Acetate
Basilic

1,000

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260

Masculine Fragrances - Oriental Sweet

ORIENTAL SWEET
An oriental sweet fragrance can share many similarities with its spicy counter part. In this family of fragrances there is a sweetness that can be based on vanilla, jasmine, or synthetic aldehydes to provide strength.
Of course cloves, ginger, carnation, nutmeg, including caraway, and nutmeg are characteristic of this theme.
Jasmin 2 %

Top

Orange 1 %, Green Notes .5 %, Bergamot 8 %

Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Benteine
Laurine Extra

Fruity Sweet

Ylang Ylang 1 %, Peach 3 %


Violet 1 %

Middle

Muguet 4 %, Jasmin 4 %, Rose 6 %

Floral Sweet

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %


Carnation 5 %
Vanilla 1.5 %

Base

Sandalwood 2 %, Musk 2 %, Patchouli 1 %, Tonka 1 %


Vetiver 4 %, Resin Benzoin 1 %, Moss - Trace, Earth - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 7 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 33 %

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Balsamic

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

261

Oriental Sweet # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

11
9
6
19
10
39
1
4
23
72
9
11
8
43
9
1
38
4
22
3
.1
45
9
6
1
3
329
11
1
25
33
.1
3
1
47
.1

Bacdanol
Benzyl Benzoate
Vanilla Beans, Indonesia
Sandalwood Substitute
Rhodiascent Extra Pure
Phthalate DEthyle
Mousse De Metre
Sandalwood, Java
Galaxolide Artessence
Benzyl Salicylate
Patchouli Oil MD
Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
Ethyl Vanillin
Benzyl Acetate
Jasphene
Carnaline
Vetiver Extender
Fleuramone
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Orris Oil
Earth
Geraniol 60
Hydroxycitronellal A
Citronellol
Balsam Peru Oliffac
Javanol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Sandalwood Agemarked E.I.
Muguet Base
Carnation Base
Parmavert
Nutmeg, Ceylon
Geraniol Ex Palmarosa
Linalool Coeur
Violiff

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
9
28
1
3
.1
2
11
35
.1
2
1
9
6
.3
11
4
3
.1
1
1
3
5
9
.1

Civet
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Peach Aldehyde
Rosardia Augaflor 21
Neroli Artessence
Undecavertol
Methyl Diantilis
Ionone Alpha White Coeur
Linalyl Acetate
Alcohol C - 10
Styrallylacetate
Iso Jasmone
Lavender Oliffac
Anapear - Givaudan
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Orange Oil, Sweet
Vetiver Acetate
Ciclamen Aldeido
Vanilla Absolute
Kir Base # 9741
Mysoriff
Nerol G
Vertifloreol
Clemflor
Decanal 4 Trans

1,000

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262

Oriental Sweet # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

8
22
6
19
9
42
11
10
4
1
.1
6
3
51
9
26
31
49
9
42
.1
2
1
319
2
41
38
1
11
7
10
4
5
6
.1
11

Vanillin
Musk Gx 50 % DEP
Bacdanol
Sandalwood Extender
Benzyl Benzoate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cou Marin
Patchouli Indonesia
Iso E Super
Cedraclaire
Iso Propyl Quinoline
Etil Vanilina Rhodiarome
Iris Beurre Oil
Benzyl Salicylate - 98 % China
Osyrol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Vetiver Extender
Eugenol
Citronellol
Muguet Base
Alcohol C - 08
Iris Givco 204/2
Winter Green
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Fir Needle Oil Asia
Geraniol Pure
Acetate De Benzyle
Vanilla Beans
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Methyl Ionone
Benzoine Resinoid
Odorys RH
Iso - Eugenol
Vetiver Acetate
Nonadienal
Orange Oil, Spanish

Fragrance Ingredient

4
3
11
4
54
2
1
1
.1
3
38
27
6
.1
1
3
11
.1
3
1
4
6

Laurine Extra
Carnation Augaflor 17
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Jasmonyl Acetate
Linalool Coeur
Styrallylacetate
Methyl Pamplemousse
Bois Ambrene Forte
Aldehyde C - 11 Undecelenico
Flroeal
Linalyl Acetate
Peacharoma Base
Hidroxi Citronelal
Rose Abs.
Amberfleur
Aldeido Ciclamen
Aldehyde C - 14
Leaf Alcohol
Citronellyl Acetate A - IFF
Eugenol Acetate
Iso Jasmone T
Mandarinal

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

263

Oriental Sweet # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

11
10
11
6
20
8
4
44
11
.1
58
4
5
48
41
27
.1
4
5
49
3
1
1
32
334
2
6
3
35
4
27
.1
9
1
4
33

Patchouli Oil MD
Benzoato Benzila
Coumarin Substitute
Opoponax Base
Cashmeran
Sandalwood Oliffac
Vanilla Tincture 20 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
Evernyl
Benzyl Salicylate
Vanilla Resinoid
Heliotropine
Vetiver Extender
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iso Butyl Quinoline
Cedrenyl Acetate
Ethyl Vanisal
Geraniol
Lysmeral
Anisyl Alcohol
Di Methyl Octanol
Eugenol
Di Propileno Glicol
Benzoin Oliffac 63
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Citronellol
Eugenol
Cedarwood Oil Atlas
Peach Aldehyde
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Benteine
Linalyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

9
6
1
3
11
1
4
2
1
4
2
3
1
4
55
1
11
3
1
9
1
3
2

White Vineyard Peach - Givaudan


Hydroxycitronellal 99 %
Iridales
Muguet Augaflor 16
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cis Jasmone
Cedraclaire
Styrallyl Acetate
Fixateur 404
Alicate
Fir Balsam Canadian
Petilyn
Bisabolene
Nerol
Linalool
Santalyl Acetate
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Acetate Terpenila
Orange Oil C.P. - USA
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Vetiver Acetate
Orange West Indies

1,000

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264

Spice Fragrance Chemicals

Acetate Eugenol
Acetate Iso Eugenol

Sweet spicy carnation.


Balsamic, warm faintly spicy.

Bay Oil West Indies


Bisabolene

Powerful spicy and sweet.


Warm spicy balsamic.

Caraway Oil
Cardamon Oil
Cardamon Abs.
Cardamone Oil D - 1204
Caryophelline Beta
Cassia Oil
Cassie Abs.
Cassie Abs. Syn 17.620
Celery Seed Oil
Cinnamalva
Cinnamic Aldehyde
C A Di Methyl Acetal
Cinnamon Leaf Oil
CIS Jasmone
Clove Bud Abs.
Clove Bud Oil
Clove Critical

Intense and spicy.


Spicy balsamic odor.
Strong warm spicy aromatic.
Sweet, spicy piney woody camphoraceous.
Woody spicy dry and tenacious.
Intense cinnamon like.
Powerful strong spicy floral odor.
Warm powdery spicy and at same time herbaceous odor.
Spicy warm sweet, and rich soup like odor.
Powerful warm spicy oily slight floral.
Warm spicy balsamic odor suggestive of cassia, cinnamon.
Warm spicy, balsamic odor, cinnamon like.
Warm spicy rather harsh, lacks rich body of bark oil.
Diffusive, warm spicy fruity, dilution - floral.
An intensely warm powerful sweet clove spicy odor.
Warm, sweet clove odor.
Sweet, clean clove spicy.
Clove De Girofle Resin Abs. An extremely strong spicy, and herbaceous odor.
Clove Leaf Decolorized Oil Has a typical clove odour.
Clove Leaf Oil
Harsh, woody and dry spicy odor.
Clove Stem Oil
Strong spicy somewhat woody, but quite pleasant odor.
Clove Terpenes Oil
Warm sweet spicy strong, typical clove odor.
Coriander Oil
Pleasant sweet somewhat woody spicy aromatic candy like.
Coriander Essence Max
A pungent spicy aromatic odor of coriander oil.
Coriander Oil Russian
Spicy and aromatic, very nice.
Coumarin
Sweet, warm, herbaceous, slightly spicy, dilution - hay like.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Coumarin Sub # 772A


Cubeb Oil
Cumin Oil
Curruma Oil
Cyclotene

Almost oppressively cloying, more vanilla then herbaceous.


Dry woody, but simultaneously warm camphoraceous spicy.
Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy, slightly fatty odor.
Spicy and fresh Rem of sweet orange, ginger & galganga oil.
Sweet and very powerful, caramellic spicy odor, walnut mapple.

Dianthanol
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol

A spicy carnation floral rose compound.


Warm spicy sweet slight floral balsamic odor.

Elemi
Eugenol
Eugenol Acetate

Terpene, peppery lemon dilweed.


Powerful warm spicy balsamic.
Mild and sweet spicy balsamic.

Fennel Oil Bitter


Fennel Oil Sweet
Flove Oil

Sharp peppery, camphoraceous.


Sweet peppery, spicy.
Intensely sweet, coumarin hay like heavy herbaceous odor.

Ginger Oil

Warm fresh woody, spicy odor.

Heliotropine

Sweet warm floral, slightly spicy, dilution - cherry pie.

Iso Eugenol
Iso Eugenol # 6504
Iso Eugenol Ethyl Acetal

Mild and sweet deep floral carnation like.


A sweet spicy warm floral odor of carnation very nice.
Spicy floral carnation like softer.

Methyl Amyl Ketone


Methyl Benzaldehyde
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Methyl Eugenol
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Myrr Essence
Myrr Oil
Myrr Resinoid
Myrtle Oil Rectified, Tunesia

Penetrating fruity spicy light odor.


Warm mildly floral sweet spicy odor of benzaldehyde.
Powerful sweet herbaceous cinnamon spicy.
Peculiar musty tea like, warm mildly spicy.
Sweet and warm mild floral tea like slightly spicy.
Warm balsamic, sweet somewhat spicy.
Warm spicy.
Intensely warm deep spicy.
Distinct, spicy and camphoraceous.

Nutmeg Oil

Fresh warm spicy.

Olibanol
Opoponax Oil
Opoponax Resinoid
Orange Des Indes 68A817

Highly balsamic and spicy.


Possesses and intensely sweet balsamic spicy.
Sweet aromatic reminiscent of spicy soups.
A nice clean fresh orange odor with a discreet spicy note.

Pepper Oil Black

Fresh dry, woody warm spicy odor resembles dried pepper.

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266

Pimento Berries Oil


Pimento Leaf Oil

Warm, spicy sweet odor.


Dry, woody warm spicy aromatic odor reminiscent of clove leaf.

Terpinyl Acetate
Thyme Oil Red
Thyme Oil White
Thymol Crystals.
Tonka Beans Abs.
Tonkarinol

Herbaceous sweet, refreshing spicy.


Rich sweet powerful, sweet warm herbaceous spicy.
Sweeter then red oil.
Powerful sweet medicinal herbaceous warm spicy.
Sweet herbaceous slightly spicy.
Rich sweet warm distinctly coumarin.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrances - Oriental Spicy

ORIENTAL SPICY
Scents in this family can include combinations of spicy notes along with amber, vanilla, woods and resinous
materials. Fine fragrances in this group can be on the heavy side, and long lasting.
Top

Bergamot 6 %
Strawberry 1 %, Orange 5 %, Lemon 3 %

Fruity Sweet

Mandarin 2 %, Basil 1 %, Peach 1 %


Middle

Cinnamon 3 %

Carnation 4.5 %, Jasmin 5 %, Rose 5 %


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1.5 %
Spice Notes 2 %
Violet 3 %, Muguet 1.5 %, Pine 1 %, Lilac .5 %
Base

Spicy Floral

Tonka 6 %
Opoponax 1 %, Myrrh 1 %, Musk 2 %
Sandalwood 2 %

Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2%
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Warm Spicy

Glen O. Brechbill

268

Oriental Spicy # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

1
17
28
22
10
3
38
8
6
11
15
.1
33
27
14
9
4
3
12
15
4
8
53
306
14
9
12
6
72
4
45
2
1
.3
7

Heliotropine
Alicate
Benzylsalicylate
Ethylene Brassylate
Opoponax Base
Thymoxane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandela
Caryophylline 919
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Lichen
Eugenol
Benzyl Acetate
alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol
Lilial
Bisabolene
Tonka Resinoid
Carnation Base
Hercolyn - D
Pepperwood
Thymol Crystals
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Di Propileno Glico
Ionone Alpha 60
Citronellol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Raspberry Ketone
Geraniol
Jasmin Egypt
Muguet Base
Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper
Anisaldehyde
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Geranyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

4
9
6
23
.3
11
6
13
41
1
.2
6
4
9
1
3
.1
1
5
3
22
3
1
2

Pepperwood
Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka
Jasmolactone Extra C
Orange Oil, Sweet
Tobacco Tincture
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Suderal LT
Terpinyl Acetate
Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop )
Suderal LT
Tea Tree Oil
Benzaldehyde
Clove Oil, Rectified
Linalool
Clemenflor
Melon Oliffac
Lavender Absolute
Nerol
Methyl Diantilis
Iso - Eugenol
Linalyl Acetate
Girofle Clove Oil
Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
Tangerinol

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

269

Oriental Spicy # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

5
13
28
22
10
3
42
8
6
11
12
.1
29
31
14
9
4
3
12
15
4
8
53
306
14
9
12
6
72
4
45
2
1
.3
7
4

Acetate Iso Eugenol


Coumarin Extra Pure
Benzylsalicylate
Ethylene Brassylate
Opoponax Base
Thymol Crystals
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Brahmanol
Caryophylline 919
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Lichen
Eugenol
Benzyl Acetate
alpha Methyl Cinnamic Alcohol
Lyral
Caryophelline
Tonka Resinoid
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Benzoato Benzila
Poivre 125
Thyme ( Thymol Type )
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Di Propileno Glico
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Citronellol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Raspberry Ketone
Geraniol
Jasmin Egypt
Muguet Base
Piper Nigrum - Black Pepper
Anisaldehyde
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Geranyl Acetate
Pepperwood

Fragrance Ingredient

9
6
23
.3
11
6
13
41
1
.2
6
4
9
1
3
.1
1
5
3
22
3
1
2

Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka


Jasmolactone Extra C
Orange Oil, Sweet
Tobacco Tincture
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Suderal HT
Terpinyl Acetate
Lemon Italian Select ( Winter Crop )
Pimento Leaf
Tea Tree Oil
Benzaldehyde
Clove Oil, Rectified
Linalool
Clemenflor
Melon Oliffac
Coriander Oil Russian
Nerol
Dianthanol
Carnaline
Linalyl Acetate
Girofle Clove Oil
Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
Tangerinol

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

270

Oriental Spicy # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

5
11
30
19
10
3
42
10
3
11
12
.1
29
34
12
9
4
1
12
15
4
5
49
320
16
9
8
6
72
1
48
2
1
.3
7
4

Heliotropine
Coumarin Substitute
Benzyl Salicylate
Galaxolide 50
Opoponax Base
Thymoxane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Brahmanol
Caryophylline 919
Myrrh Resinoid Washed
Cinnamon Bark Substitute
Moss Oliffac
Eugenol
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Methyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Liral
Bisabolene
Tonka Resinoid
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Benzyl Benzoate
Poivre 125
Caraway Oil - Holland
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Di Propileno Glico
a - Irone
Citronellol
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Raspberry Ketone
Geraniol
Jasmin Egypt
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Pepper Oil Black - India
Anisaldehyde
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Geranyl Acetate
Safraleine

Fragrance Ingredient

9
2
23
.3
11
6
13
45
1
.2
6
4
9
1
3
.1
1
5
3
22
3
1
2

Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Sri. Lanka


Methyl Jasmonate
Orange Oil Valencia ( Sweet )
Tobacco Tincture
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Suderal LT
Terpinyl Acetate
Lemon Oil Washed
Pimento Leaf
Tea Tree Oil
Benzaldehyde
Clove Oil, Rectified
Linalool
Orange Aldehyde
Melon Oliffac
Jasmine India Absolute
Nerol Coeur
Methyl Diantilis
Carnaline
Linalyl Acetate
Girofle Clove Oil
Cinnamon Leaf Ceylon FCC
Mandarinal

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Woody Fragrance Chemicals

Abalyn
Allyl Ionone

A weak piney woody odor.


Oily sweet slight flowery, but also fruity woody bark like green.
Aloe Vera Lupo Quinon Extract An extremely fine delicate ambergris sandalwood odor.
Alpha Pinene
Warm resinous, refreshing coniferious like.
Ambergris T Oliffac
Amber
Amphermate
Woody.
Amyris Acetate
Woody slightly sweet dry, fresh.
Amyris Oil W.I.
Faintly woody not dry.
Bacdanol
Beachwood Cresote
Benteine
Beta Pinene
Birch Leaf Oil
Birch Tar Oil
Brahmanol

Powerful sandalwood note.


Powerful and penetrating resembling that of smoked wood.
A woody odor.
Dry, woody resinous piney.
Pleasant woody green balsamic odor.
A phenolic tarry woody smoky leathery, diffusive material.
A light sweet odor of sandalwood.

Cabreuva Oil
Cade Oil
Cadinene
Calamus
Cedarwood Alcohol
Cedarwood Oil Terpeneless
Cedarwood Oil Texas Crude
Cedarwood Oil Virginia
Cedramber
Cedrene
Cedrenol
Cedrol Crystals
Cedrenyl Acetate
Cedryl Acetate
Citronella Oil Ceylon

Sweet woody very delicate slightly floral.


Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor.
Mild, dry woody slightly medicinal tarry odor.
Warm, woody spicy and pleasant odor.
A woody cedar type odor, a bit harsh.
Stronger woody cedar odor free from terpenes.
Pleasant sweet woody somewhat tar like odor.
Oily woody almost sweet mild pleasant, cedar chest like odor.
Refined woody, pleasantly green odor.
Woody, camphoraceous, somewhat dry green odor.
Mild woody odor less dry more balsamic than cedrene.
Very faint odor of cedarwood type.
Faint fresh woody odor.
Woody slight leathery.
Peculiar warm woody yet fresh grassy odor of wet leaves.

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Glen O. Brechbill

Cortex Aldehyde
Costus Oil
Cubeb Oil
Cypress Oil

272

Powerful green woody sap like, but fresh aldehydic sweet.


Peculiar soft tenacious, reminiscent of old precious wood.
Dry woody, but simultaneously warm camphoraceous spicy.
Pleasing smoky woody similar to amber.

Di Hydro Cuminyl Alcohol Warm, herbaceous slightly woody oily odor.


Fir Needle Balsam Resin
Fir Needle Canadian
Fir Needle Siberian
Fixolide
Fleuroxene

A powerful diffusive pine forest type odor.


Rich balsamic sweet, and pleasant oily pinaceous fragrance.
Refreshing balsamic, slight fatty oily with Pw pine forest odor.
Sweet woody musky.
A strong green floral woody non descript odor.

Ginger Oil
Guaicol
Guaicwood Acetate
Gurjan Balsam Oil

Sweet fresh woody spicy.


Powerful smoke like medicinal odor.
Soft warm delicately sweet rosy woody odor.
Mildly woody balsamic sweet odor.

Heptavert

A green woody odor.

Ionone Beta
Iraldeine Beta
Iris Resin
Iso Cyclomene E
Iso E Super
Iso Longifolanone
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A

More fruity, and woody like than alpha.


Woody warm odor.
Deep sweet slightly woody tobacco like.
Woody amber.
Woody amber.
Fresh woody raw amber.
A fine sandalwood cedar complex quite natural.

Kephalis LRG - 1182


Koavone
Kohinool

Woody amber complex.


Woody floral complex with amber violet note.
A fine woody amber dry out.

Linalool Oxide

Powerful sweet woody floral.

Menthanyl Acetate
Menthol Racemic
Merion
Methyl Ionone Beta
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Methyl Ionone Gamma A
Methyl I G Supreme
Methyl Ionone Tails
Methyl Ionone Terpenes

Fresh piney citrusy somewhat herbaceous.


Similar to above more woody less sweet.
A diffusive oriental woody complex.
Woody warm odor.
Purer grade more woody, and warm.
A floral violet woody isomeric mixture.
Floral woody fruity complex.
A harsh woody solvent masking odor.
Harsh woody solvent masking fragrance.

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273

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Mousse De Chenne Abs.


Mousse De Metra
Moussyl 1055

Powerful clean oakmoss odor.


Powder form of oakmoss.
A mossy balsamic type odor almost woody like very dry.

Nerolidyl Acetate
Nopol
Nopyl Acetate
Norsdandyl 81157

Sweet woody and mildly refreshing green.


Mild woody camphoraceous odor.
Sweet woody fruity odor.
A fine woody complex.

Orivone
Very diffusive woody camphoraceous odor.
Ortho Methyl Cinnamic Ald. Powerful sweet herbaceous woody camphoraceous.
Osyrol
Sandalwoody flowery woody note.
Parsley Seed Oil
Patchone
Patchouli Dark
Petitgrainol
Phenyl Acetaldehyde
Pine Oil Yarmor # 302
Polarsan

Warm woody sweet spicy.


Extremely dry woody camphoraceous.
Extremely rich sweet herbaceous aromatic spicy woody.
Intensely woody neroli note.
Powerful green wood sap like.
Fresh, harsh pine type.
Sandalwood.

Rosemary Oil
Rose Nitrile

Woody herbaceous, reiminiscent of spike lavender oil.


Rich rose geranium woody iris.

Sandalore
Sandela
Sandalwood Essence
Sandalwood 77.125B
Sandalwood Oil East Indies
Sandalwood Oil Australian
Sandranol
Santalum Citrinum

Sandalwood amyris woody type odor.


Sandalwood.
Captures the sweetness and heart of sandalwood very nice.
Has the dry slightly sweet balsamic odor of amyris oil W.I.
Extremely soft sweet woody almost animal balsamic.
Soft woody extremely tenacious and somewhat balsamic.
Woody, and extremely fine sandalwood compound last days.
Very pleasant sweet woody odor reminiscent of sandalwood.

Thiazyl
Tree Moss Abs.
Trimofix
Turpentine SDW

Dry woody and Eau De Grouts character.


A strong at the same time persistent moss odor.
Amber woody note with vetivert and smoky tobacco nuances.
A woody solvent which is steam distilled.

Unipine 85
Unipine 90
Unitene D

Fresh pine.
Fresh pine.
Piney lemony type odor.

Valanone B

Warm woody odor.

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Glen O. Brechbill

274

Vanoris
Vertenex
Vertofix
Vetivert Oil Bourbon

Woody fruity, soft refreshing odor of mild orris type.


Sweet, animal creamy woody odor with a soft floral undertone.
Woody.
Woody, finest grade of vetivert oil.

Woodine

Woody.

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275

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrances - Chypre Woody

CHYPRE WOODY
This is a group that is highly reminiscent of chipped wood. One of the exceptions is that of cedar which
smells like a cedar chest odor with a slightly camphoraceous off-note. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, and
warm at times described as somewhat animalic. Vetiver from Haiti has a pronounced grassy earthy wood like
note that varies depending on its purity. Patchouli can smell earthy, herbaceous sweet yet possess a slightly
fruity tone. Other wood like materials include rosewood and pine oils. Each theme has a distinct pattern, and
can incorporate materials that are utilized in other groups.
Lime 3 %

Top

Grape 1 %, Apple 1 %, Orange 1 %

Fruity Sweet

Bergamot 6 % - Dry, Strawberry - Trace, Cherry 2 %, Basil 3 %


Veternex 19 %

Middle
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2 %

Hawthorn 3 %, Jasmin - Trace, Lilac - Trace

Woody

Carnation 2 %
Base
Sandalwood 10 %
Musk 5 %, Patchouli 1 %, Vanilla - Trace
Iso E Super - 2 %
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

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Warm

Glen O. Brechbill

276

Chypre Woody # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

22
1
40
35
114
7
10
8
3
7
5
4
18
15
5
6
163
8
14
15
8
6
4
7
9
277
1
2
1
5
18
24
1
3
2
.3
11

Iso E Super
Vanilla Resinoid
Ethylene Brassylate
Phthalate Ethyle D
Sandalwood Extender
Patchouli Light
Benzyl Salicylate
Javanol
Heliotropin
Acetate Cedrenila
Bacdanol
Lyral
Benzyle Acetate
alpha - Amyl Cinnami Aldehyde
Syringa
Methyl Phenyl Acetate
Vertenex
Phnyl Ethyl Alcohol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iso Eugenol Substitute
Osyrol
Anisic Aldehyde
Citronellol 850
Valanone B
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Bisabolene
Merillol
Rose Crystals
Sandalwood Mysore
Benzaldheyde
Dihydromyrcenol
OJ Carbinyl
Merion
Base 3
Aldeido C - 12 MNA
Verdyl Propionate

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
3
28
2
3
1
25
1
.1
1
1
8
11
1
.1
17
4
3
1
2
2
4
2
3

Earth
Methyl Anthranilate
Geraniol 60
Vetivert Acetate
Pheny Ethyl Acetate
Guaiyl Acetate
Linalool
Massada
Aldehyde C - 10
Verdox
Santalyl Acetate
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Orange Oil Sweet
Cedarwood Oil Virginia
Methyl Cinnimate
Linalyl Acetate
Eugenyl Acetate
Lime AB 402
Oranger Crystals
Fir Douglas
Waxberry Aldehyde
Ionone Beta
Amyris Oil - Haiti
Lavender Oliffac

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

277

Chypre Woody # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

15
9
11
1
3
35
87
6
48
19
.1
7
2
16
4
25
157
.1
17
15
9
1
3
2
278
14
3
8
27
4
2
1
4
.3
14
1

Iso & Super


Patchouli MD
Benzyle Salicylate
Cade Crude
Vanillin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Substitute
Heliotropine
Galaxolide Artessence
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Birch Tar Oil rectofoed
Cedrenyl Acetate
Vanillin, ethyl
Supercepionate
Vetamber
Aubepine
Vertenex - IBCH Acetate
Mousse Essence Abs.
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Citronellol
Tonalid II
Coniferan
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Geraniol
Bisabolene
Methyl Ionone Beta
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Terpineol
Lindenol
OJ Carbinyl
Hexyl Salicylate
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Verdyl Propionate
Piconia

Fragrance Ingredient

11
21
.2
6
1
.1
3
3
41
1
.1
9
7
3
16
.1
1
2
18
1
4
.1
1

Orange Oil Brazilian Distilled


Dimetol
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Lime Oils ( c.p. / dist. )
Earth
Aldehyde C - 10
Litsea Cubeba Oil
Verdox
Linalool
Orange Crystals
Celery Essence
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
Methyl Anthranilate
Aldeido C - 16
Benzaldehyde
Rose Wood Oil
Santalol
Methyl Ionone Beta
Linalyl Acetate
Drywood Augaflor 16
Lavender Oliffac
Violet Leaves
Azarbe

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

278

Chypre Woody # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

103
1
35
.1
9
12
11
48
87
9
8
13
11
2
1
6
9
16
4
10
3
12
1
1
12
23
18
296
22
1
22
25
3
1
.1

Sandalwood Oil Substitute


Amberwood
Phthalate DEthyle
Moss ( Lichen )
Alpha Pinene
Benzyl Salicylate
Iso E Super
Galaxolide Artessence
( IBCH - Acetate )
Sandalo Indie
Cedrenyl Acetate
Amil Cinnamic Aldehyde
Patchouly Indonesia Oil
Vanilina
Cade Oil rectified
Jasphene
Terpineol Prime
Kephalis
Hysimal
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Valanone B
Citronellol
Ethyl Vanisal
Bisabolene
Cepionate
Geraniol 80
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Base # 3 - Givaudan
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Anisic Aldehyde
OJ Carbinyl
Strawberry pure
Phenylacetaldehyde

Fragrance Ingredient

3
5
7
.3
37
22
.1
1
10
.3
4
1
.2
2
14
1
22
.4
2
5
3
1
9
12
.5
2

Apple Oliffac
Vertofix Coeur
Methyl Ionone Beta
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Linalool Nat.
Dihydromyrcenol
Folione
Methyl Chamomile
Verdyl Propionate
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Methyl Anthranilate
Tonalid I
Violet Oil MF
Orange Bigarade California
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Cinnamon Leaves
Linalyl Acetate
Fir Needle - Canada
Terpinyl Acetate
Benzaldehyde
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Fir Balsam Oreton
Oranger Crystals
Lime Oil Roses Type
Meranol
Pearlate

1,000

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279

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY
Top

Bergamot 6 % - Fruity
Jasmin, Rose, Violet Notes

Floral Fruity

Pear - Trace
Middle

Lyral 8 %
Violet 1 %, Jasmin 6 %, Rose 5 %

Floral

Muguet 2 %, Carnation - Trace


Base
Bacdanol 3 %
Cedramber 1.5 %

Musk 12 %
Sandalwood 12 %, Patchouli 3 %, Tonka 3 %
Vanilla 3 %, Tolu Balsam 3 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 3 %
Di Propylene Glycol 28 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Woody

Glen O. Brechbill

280

Chypre Woody # 2a
Fragrance Ingredient

9
28
103
26
4
35
1
9
12
106
9
3
15
6
8
3
1
4
7
12
63
1
25
6
270
9
11
8
3
4
45
4
.1
13
.1
1
1

Bacdanol
Patchouli
Galaxolide Artessence
Di Hydro Coumarex
Iso E Super
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DP)
Amber Core
Bacdanol
Hydroxy Citronellal
Sandalwood Substitute
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Chandalone
Vanillin
Coniferan
Benteine
Eugenol
Jessemal
Kephalis
Tolu Balsam Resinoid
Citronellol 96 %
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Geraniol
Cedrenyl Acetate
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Ethyl Vanillin
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Lyral
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Sandela
Hedione
Beta Ionone For Soap
Guaiaicol
Cedarwood Oil Texas Light
Phenylacetaldehyde
Eugenyl Acetate
Glycolierral

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
4
22
1
1
1
1
9
.2
14
7
12
33
.1
.1
4
3
11
1
1
1
5
3

Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Ionone Beta
Linalol S 97
Black Agar Givco 215
Kephalis
Muguet Alcohol
Thuja Wood Oil
Pin de Siberle AN
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Vetiver Oil - Viet Nam
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Alpha Pinene
Linalyl Acetate
Styrax Essence
Methyl Octyne Carbonate Substitute
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Woodynol - II
Terpineol
Citronellyl Acetate
Verdantiol
Lioral
Pine Oil
Orris Givco 204/2

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

281

Chypre Woody # 2b
Fragrance Ingredient

9
28
19
3
14
32
75
6
1
14
9
3
27
11
14
6
23
9
7
8
17
4
43
3
5
309
11
8
3
104
58
.3
3
1

Benzoato Benzila
Sandela
Etilen Brasilato
Rose Crystals
Vanillin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Traseolide 700 Base
Labdanum Resinoid 50 % / DPG
Tonkarinol
Oak Base
Benzyl Salicylate
Anthamber Premium
Cumarine
Cedarwood Texas
Ethyl Vanillin
Galaxolide 50 DEP
Pachouli Oil Light
Cedramber
Pine Needles Oil - Siberia
Citronellol 850
Lindenol
Javanol
Geraniol 60
Sandalwood
Tolu Balsam Resinoid
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Iris Beurre Oil
Black Agar Givco 215
Sandalwood Extender
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Blue Cypress
English Leather Base

Fragrance Ingredient

6
1
14
5
3
1
4
3
1
3
1
.1
1
1
4
2
3
1
9
15
1
4
.1
27

Ionone For Soap


Trimofix
Ethyl Linalool
Vetyver Java
Fir Needle Silver
Methyl Ionones
Cedryl Acetate
Jessemal
Santalyl Acetate
Karnal
Citronellyl Acetate
Merion
Piconia
Base 3
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Drywood Augaflor 8
Hydroxyciol
Massada
Lavener Oil 40/42
Pine Scotch Oil
Wealdwood ABQ 7019
Birch - USA
Woodamber - SA
Linalyl Acetate

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

282

Chypre Woody # 2c
Fragrance Ingredient

17
5
.1
34
7
48
88
18
9
25
7
11
14
13
6
125
4
.1
1
47
1
6
4
3
11
306
9
4
35
6
14
.1
1
.1
4
25
7

Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A


Patchouly - Indonesia
Oakmoss Givco
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cedrenyl Acetate
Traseolide 700 Base
Sandalwood Substitute
Vanillin
Benteine
Cou Marin
Alpha Pinene
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Osyrol
Tolu Balsam Resinoid
Citronellol Prime
Sandalwood Extender
Jasmin Benzola
Alcohol C - 8
Jivanti
Acetato De Bencilo
Di Methyl Octanol
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Kephalis
Iso Bornyl Acetate
Jasmin Province Base
Di Propileno Glico
Lyrame
Heliotropine
Gernaiol
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Ethyl Vanillin
Labdanum Resinoid
Rose Acetate
Blanca Flor
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Ethyl Linalool
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

1
1
3
17
.1
5
3
.1
2
2
5
.1
1
.2
1
25
4
2
5
1
2
4
.1

Hydroxy Extra
Aubepine
Methyl Nonyl Ketome
Ionone Beta
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Jasmonyl Acetate
Diola
Folione
Dianthanol
Santalyl Acetate
Amyris Oil W.I.
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Costus Oliffac
Pivarose
Styrax Essence
Linalyl Acetate Pure 98 %
Massada
Sandenol
Iso Eugenyl Acetate
Irival
Guaiyl Acetate
Sandiff
Rose Templar

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

283

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY
Top

Bergamot 5 % - Dry
Peach 1 %, Green Notes, Pear

Fruity

Violet Note
Middle

Jasmin 1 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 1 %


Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %

Muguet 4 %, Carnation 1 %, Rose 3 %

Floral

Lily 1 %, Cedarwood 3 %
Base

Sandalwood 25 %
Tonka 1 %, Vetiver 14 %, Patchouli 1 %
Musk 1 %

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 27 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm & Sweet

Glen O. Brechbill

284

Chypre Woody # 3a
Fragrance Ingredient

7
8
206
1
18
.1
9
4
3
10
31
4
18
7
91
1
27
5
2
4
73
9
12
1
3
1
284
27
11
1
9
14
.3
26
1
8

Cashmeran
Hexyl Salicylate
Sandalwood Extender
Benzophenone
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Evernyl
Patchouli - J.Piltz
Amyris Sandalwood Oil - Haiti
Cedrenyl Acetate
alpha Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Benzyl Acetate
Sandalwood Oliffac
Eugenol
Methyl Octlactone
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Piconia
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Osyrol
Lavender Clonal
Vetiver Extender
Ionone Beta
Oak Base
Massada
Citronellol
Pine Nigare
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Rose Substitute
Geraniol 98
Labdanum Resinoide
Benzyl Alcohol
Galaxolide
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Linalol Coeur
Madrox
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

11
1
6
3
1
2
1
17
4
2
1
5
3
2
1
.3
1
.1
1
.2
3
1

Bergamot Oil Substitute


Drywood Augaflor
Di Hydro Coumarex
Methyl Ionone Beta
Benzophenone
Ocimene PQ
Guaiyl Acetate
Linalyl Acetate
Aldeido C - 14
Bangalo
Costus Oliffac
Ionone Beta
Piconia
Vetiver Redistilled
Sandalore
Geranium Oil E
Cedryl Acetate Liquid
Phenylacetaldehyde
Rhodiaflor SB
Santalox 244 M
Pine Oil White
Folia SA

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

285

Chypre Woody # 3b
Fragrance Ingredient

3
11
49
8
7
175
6
12
29
8
9
.1
11
3
103
8
5
1
12
1
66
24
3
8
285
4
1
1
22
5
3
1
1
.3

Cinnamic Alcohol
Coumarin crist.
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Oliffac
Patchouli China
Sandalwood Extender
Traseolide
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Cedarwood
Benteine
Amil Cinamico Aldeido
Mousse De Metre
Cepionate
Leather LWS - 3768
Vetiver Extender
Osyrol
Sandenol China
Benzyl Phenyl Acetate
Oak Base
Para Cresyl redistilled
Muguet Base
Cedarwood Oil Virginia
b - Ionone
Citronellol
Di Propileno Glico
Iso E Super
Rose Crystals
Abies Alba Oil - Bulgaria
Geraniol
Cedrenyl Acetate
Galbanolide
Labdanum Resinoid
Costus Oliffac
Aldeido C - 12 MNA

Fragrance Ingredient

9
14
7
18
1
4
1
3
1
4
2
5
6
3
4
1
25
3
.2
1
.1
2
.1
1
.1

Peach pure - Givaudan


Vertofix Coeur
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Linalyl Acetate
Geranium Oil Algerian FCC
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Vetiver Acetate
Jessemal
Citronellyl Acetate
Dihydrocoumarin
Majantal - IFF
Turpentine Oil SDW
Clary Sage Oil - Hungary
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Santalex T
Merion
Linalol
Nectaryl
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Drywood Augaflor 8
Geraniol 600
Massada
Rose Otto, Bulgaria
Mirabelle 2000 D
Styrax

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

286

Chypre Woody # 3c
Fragrance Ingredient

3
21
1
2
7
42
1
35
1
9
14
3
1
127
1
25
1
11
105
28
81
3
38
6
9
309
1
3
5
17
9
1
6
3
14
3
1

Iso Bornyl Crystals


Musk 50 BB
Vertimoss
Brahmanol F
Cedrenyl Acetate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzophenone
Vertenex - IBCH Acetate
Sandalmysore Coeur
Cedarwood Leaf Oil
alpha - Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Cedraclaire
Tonalid II
Vertofix Coeur
Massada
Vetiver Extender
Benzyl Iso Eugenol 903
Citronellol 96 %
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldheyde
Sandalwood Substitute
Para Cresyl redistilled
Geraniol Pure
Terpineol Prime
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Patchone
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Tuberose Substitute
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Eugenol
Styrallylacetate
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Cedro ( Arvere )
Peach Pure - Givaudan
Iso - Eugenol
Santalyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
5
4
1
.1
4
.2
3
1
1
1
4
.1
3
5
3
9
1
3
4
1

Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Turpentine rectified
Nectaryl
Geranium over Roses
Rose Oxide L
Ocimenyl Acetate
Base R 924
Methyl Cedrylone
Rosemary Moroccan
Costus Oliffac
Massada
Vetyver China
Aldheyde C - 12 Lauric
y - Irone
Lavender Oil - Bulgaria
Santal Oil & Resinoid MF
Ionone For Soap
Fixateur 404
Muguet Alcohol
Diola
Costus 320

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

287

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

CHYPRE WOODY
Top

Bergamot 5 %
Orange 7 %, Lemon 3 %, Lime 4 %

Fruity

Basil 8 % - Fruity
Middle

Woody 16 %

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3%


Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3.5 %
Oranger Crystals .75 %
Base

Lilac 13 %, Rose 5 %, Muguet 2 %

Woody Sweet

Lavender 2 %
Musk 4 %
Tonka 1 %, Sandalwood 2 %, Moss - Trace
Vanilla - .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Benzoate 1%
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 25 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Sweet

Glen O. Brechbill

288

Chypre Woody # 4a
Fragrance Ingredient

7
11
9
16
12
2
19
42
1
3
75
4
25
11
14
6
38
1
83
3
6
3
269
4
23
1
9
3
1
.3
11
9
22
8

Bacdanol
Benzyl Alcohol FR
Helional
Sandalwood Extender
Benzyl Benzoate
Oranger Crystals
Traseolide 700 Base
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Mousse De Metre
Cade Rectified Oil
Iso Butyl Cyclo Hexyl Acetate
Cedrenyl Acetate
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Benzylsalicylate
Cedarwood Oil Port Orford
Sandalore
Vetiver Extener
Rosone
Lilac Base
Woodinyl Acetate
Citronellol
Iridals
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Rosmarina Offinalis
Geraniol
Ionone For Soap
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Laurel Leaf Morocco
Santal - India
Aldeido C - 12 Laurico
Menthanyl Acetate
Oak Base
Linalool
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Fragrance Ingredient

5
17
4
2
73
.2
1
9
18
7
31
14
1
1
3
.5
24
3
5

Hexyl Salicylate
Verdyl Propionate
Laurel Bay Oil
Guaiyl Acetate
Orange Guinea
Aldehyde C - 111 Lenic
Birch Sweet Southern Oil
Mandarin Artessence
Lavender China Oil
Dimetol
Linalyl Acetate S 96
Verdyl Acetate
Sweet Pea
Bangalol
Lime Oil Distilled Peru
Fir Needle Siberia - Russia
Lemon Italian
Methyl Cedrylone
Ionone Beta Coeur

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

289

Chypre Woody # 4b
Fragrance Ingredient

9
28
1
3
12
38
7
1
8
17
72
4
5
113
1
4
2
33
19
6
4
1
3
1
282
6
5
.1
38
1
35
1
6
4
25

Alcool Benzilico
Traseolide 700 Base
Amborate
Patchouli Augalflor 22
Coumane
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Iso & Super
Cade Crude ( Juniperus )
Alpha Pinene
Osyrol
Vertenex - IBCH Acetate
Cedrenyl Acetate
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Lilac Base
Cedro ( Folha )
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Oranger Crystals
Vertofix Coeur
Cedarwood Oil, Chinese
Koavone
Traseolide
Rosone
Fixateur 404
Pimento
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Citronellol
Iso Bornyl Acetate
Folione
Geraniol 98 %
Thuja Wood Oil
Lemon Oil - Spain
White Thyme Oil
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Amyris Oil
Hexyl Salicylate

Fragrance Ingredient

71
17
28
.1
.2
3
4
8
3
15
.1
6
1
25
6
3
1
5
.1
1
4
2
.1
2

Sweet Orange Spruce Oil


Tri Cyclo Decenyl Propionate
Dihydromyrcenol
Tea - Tree
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Ocimenyl Acetate
Diola
Menthanyl Acetate
Woodynol - II
Verdyl Acetate
Cedarwood Essence
Dimetol
Fire
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
Vetiver Acetate
Costus Root Oil
Labdanum Resinoid - Siam
Fir Needle Oil
Rose Oxide L
Black Agar Givco 215
Iris
Santalyl Acetate
White Rose
Cedre Atlas Maroc

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

290

Chypre Woody # 4c
Fragrance Ingredient

.1
1
43
41
9
6
8
43
9
16
23
11
16
64
15
4
3
8
9
29
1
1
27
101
5
10
261
.1
6
3
1
3
1
22
1

Civet Powder # 1a
Amber Base
Galaxolide
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Coumarin
Patchouly Oil
Tonalid II
Vertofix Coeur
Benzyl Salicylate
Sandela
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Vetamber
Alpha Pinene
Vertenex Coeur
Cedarwood Oil Texas
Helional
Etilen Brassilate
Methyl Cedryl Ketone
Citronellol
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Jessemal
Woodynol II
Geraniol
Lilac Base
Hydroxycitronellal For Soap
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Cedryl Acetate Crystals
Methyl Ionone Beta
Iso Bornyl Crystals
Massada
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Verotyl
Hexyle Salicylate
Cade, Rectified

Fragrance Ingredient

3
.4
4
9
6
3
32
14
1
1
4
53
17
.1
6
4
3
27
.1
2
.3
1
3
5

y - Irone
Oranger Crystals
Fir Balsam
Mandarin Oil Red
Ionone Beta
Labdanum Resnoid 50 % / DPG
Verdyl Propionate
Linalol S 97
Santalyl Acetate
Guaiyl Acetate - IFF
Menthanyl Acetate
Orange Oil, Sweet
Verdyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Ocimene PQ
Turpentine Oil
Dimetol
Linalyl Acetate
Jessate
Vetiverol
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Anisaldehyde
Fixateur 404
Levenalis

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

291

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Moss, Amber, & Tobacco Fragrance Chemicals

Moss AB311
Moss AB311D
Moss Oliffac

Powerful, decolorized moss.


Contains more colour stable mosses.
Very tenacious oak moss odor as found growing on your forest tree. Free
from coloring problems.
Mousse B Resin Abs.
Oakmoss.
Mousse B Solide Resinoid Oakmoss.
Mousse C Savon Resinoid Oakmoss.
Mousse De Arbe Abs.
Woody dry forest like, or seaweed like, herbaceous green.
Mousse De Arbe Resinoid Treemoss.
Mousse De Cevennes
Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene
Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Abs.
Powerful clean oakmoss odor.
Mousse De Chene Abs.
Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Abs. Moroc Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Abs. Yugo
Oakmoss.
Mousse De Chene Morocco Very tenacious oakmoss odor.
Mousse De Mer FM1062
Effervescent, fresh, sea moss, interesting whiskey and ginger note.
Mousse De Metra
Powder form of oakmoss.
Mousse Essence Abs.
Typical treemoss odor.
Mousse 27/30
Oakmoss.
Moussyl 1055
A mossy balsamic type odor almost wood like very dry.
Tree Moss Abs.

A strong and at the same time persistent moss odor.

Tree Moss Abs. C ' Less M.D. A powerful mossy type odor which lasts days on the blotter.

Tree Moss C ' Less L.C.

A diffusive tree moss woody odor.

Amber
Ambafix AB549
Amber AB472
Amberlyx AB2000
Amberwood ABQ5583
Amborate

Musky, tobacco, animalic fixative base, amber.


Warm, sweet slightly animalic, amber.
Powerful, rich amber base.
Woody, amber complex.
Delicate woody amber character.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

Amboryl Acetate
Ambrasol AB455
Ambre 140 BSA
Ambrox D - L Coeur
Ambrox 10 %

292

Woody, with a delicate tenacious woody amber character.


Cost effective, animalic, amber base.
Very powerful amber and woody note.
Very faint amber odor.
Powerful and elegant amber note with discreet rich woodiness.

Tobacco
Ambafix AB549

Musky, tobacco, animalic fixative base, amber.

Cade Oil

Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor.

Frescolat

Faint minty somewhat reminiscent of tobacco and camomile.

Gamma Hexalactone

Warm powerful herbaceous sweet, tobacco like.

Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso

Precious wood tobacco, creamy violet.

Styrax Coeur

Tobacco, dewy, resinous balsamic.

Tabac Balkan Dec. Abs.


Tabac Noir Abs.
Tabanon
Tetra Hydro Para Methyl
Quinoline

Strong almost repulsive faintly reminiscent of cigar tobacco.


Warm aromatic intense odour of tobacco.
Warm, dry sweet tobacco like with good fixation.
Is frequently used in traces for artificial civet bases and in heavy oriental com
positions. It produces honey, tobacco and animal notes also giving excellent f
fixation.
The/Res Inc ( Tea ) Resinoid Warm and reminiscent of tobacco.
Tobacarol
Woody, amber, spicy tobacco.
Tobacco Abs.
A diffusive material reminiscent of fresh tobacco leaves.

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

293

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrances - Chypre Coniferous

CHYPRE CONIFEROUS
A coniferous fine fragrance is reminiscent of crushed conifer needles, or resins that often display citrusy,
herbaceous, or aromatic spice like elements. They can also possess an earthy note. This group is predominately
resinous and green. Pine needle oil like Iso Bornyl Acetate, Fir Needle Canadian is preferred. Citrus top notes
are often utilized to create sweet like fresh notes.
Top

Rosemary 1 %
Lavender 5 %, Bregamot 6 % - Dry, Lemon 2 %

Herbaceous

Sage .5 %
Middle

Pine 8 %
Rose 3 %, Violet 4 %, Jasmin 5 %

Base

Floral Woody

Fir 3 %, Carnation 4 %, Turpentine 1 %


Sandalwood 3 %
Cedarwood 1 %, Musk 3 %, Leather 1 %
Amber 1 %, Benzoin .5 %, Birch Tar Oil - Trace, Earth - Trace

Bases:
English Leather Base, Sandalwood Extender, Organic Shampoo Base,
Oak Base, Iso Eugenol Replacement
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Benzyl Alcohol 1 %
Benzyl Salicylate 1 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %
Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Woody

Glen O. Brechbill

294

Chypre Coniferous # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

11
28
25
41
.1
6
1
8
11
14
5
19
.1
13
8
35
107
5
22
14
2
7
11
29
9
1
42
281
9
4
5
9
27
4
11
.1

Benzoato Benzila
Sandalwood Extender
Galaxolide 50
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cade Oil
English Leather Base
Ambrofix
Cedrenyl Acetate
Benzyl Alcohol FR
Alpha Pinene
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Iso Butyl Quinoline
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Organic Shampoo Base
Cepionate
Acetate Iso Bornila
Black Agar Givco 215
Vertofix
Beta Pinene
Indisan
Kephalis
Oak Base
Ionone Alpha White Coeur
Citronellol
Rootanol 100
Carnation Base
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Suderal LT
Resinoide Labdanum
Fir Needle Oil Canada
Geraniol
Sage Oil Clary
Citrus Lavender Base
Methyl Cinnimate

Fragrance Ingredient

3
.4
1
.1
1
22
.5
53
1
3
11
29
1
4
3
2
3
19
4
7
.1
3
.7

Santalyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Cade
Folione
Girofle Feuilles
Lemon Mexico
Aldehdo C - 12 Laurico
Lavender 40/42
Irone V
Cedryl Acetate
Pine Needles Oil - Siberia
Linalol
Sandalwood Oliffac
Ionone Beta
Turpentine Oil SDW
Amyl Salicylate
Cedarwood Oil Texas Light
Linalyl Acetate
Eucalyptus Radiata
Syringa
Artemisia Morocco Essence
Polysantol
Jessemal

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

295

Chypre Coniferous # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

3
11
4
35
94
7
1
9
4
12
1
35
113
21
17
4
1
21
1
7
3
11
21
18
20
1
26
251
13
.3
4
29
18
.1
3
.3

Acetate Iso Eugenol


Benzyle Benzoate
Benzoin Siam Resinoid
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Sandalwood Extender
Cedryl Acetate 50 %
Ambermor
Alpha Pinene
Bisabolene
Salicylate De Benzyle
Aniba Rosaeodora
Musk 50 DPG
Acetato Iso Bornila
Geraniol 98 %
IBCH - Acetate
Cuir de Rosse
Kephalis
alpha Amyl Cinamic Aldehyde
Ionone Beta
Citronellol Prime
Suderal LT
Beta Pinene
Hedione
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Anisaldehyde PQ
Rose Crystals
Lilial
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Eugenol
Aldehyde C - 12MNA
Patchouli
Dihydromyrcenol
Benzaldehyde
Rose Oxide R
OJ Carbinyl
Aldeido C - 12 Laurico

Fragrance Ingredient

4
3
5
7
6
21
3
.1
1
.1
3
1
.1
19
4
2
1
5
23
14
1
9
17
31

Piperonyl Acetate
Trimofix O
Gyrane
Methyl Anthranilate
Clary Sage Bulgarian
Verdyl Propionate
Piconia
Alcohol C - 10
Terpineol
Violet Leaf
Greanodyle
Methyl Chamomile
Strawberry Aldehyde
Linalyl Acetate
Apple Oliffac
Orange Crystals
Vanillyl Alcohol
Aurantiol
Orange Oil, sweet
Verdyl Acetate
Meranol
Lime Base 400
Fir Needle, Canada
Linalool

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

296

Chypre Coniferous # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

13
4
9
17
4
11
31
21
3
27
4
149
1
9
3
2
25
19
13
1
21
3
1
35
2
.1
296
25
35
9
22
16
.1
.1
1

Sandalwood Super Eco


Di Hydro Coumarex
Benzyle Salicylate
Musecone
Vanilla Inco 3
Patchouli Dark OE
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vetamber
Cedryl Acetate
Amil Cinnamico Alddeido
Cedar Atlantica Oil
Iso Bornyl Acetate
Ethyl Vanillin
Cashmeran
Irone V
Hawthron
Aldeido Hexil Cinamico
Vertenex
Ionone Beta
Alpha Fenchyl Alcohol
Pine Oil 907
Safraleine
Labdanum Resinoid
MDJ
Citronellol
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Carnation Base
Geraniol Pure
Alpha Pinene
Sandela
Linalyl Acetate
OJ Carbinyl
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Strawberry Aldehyde

Fragrance Ingredient

6
35
8
24
9
2
1
.1
1
.1
19
20
15
.1
4
9
3
5
3
2
1
1

Irone Alpha Refined


Linalol
Vetiver Oil - Hairi
Benzaldehyde
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Borneol Iso Pure
Helional
3 - Octyl Acetate
Dorina SA
Aldehyde C - 10
Orange Oil Sweet - Sicilian
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Neroline
Petunial
Di Ethyl Malonate
Litsea Cubeba Oil
Basil Commores Oil
Chandalyn AB 1513
Berryflor
Vanillin Acetate
Jasmonyl Acetate

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Leather Fragrance Chemicals

Birch Tar Oil


Birch Tar Oil Distilled
Birch Tar Oil Rectified

Powerful phenolic, tarry woody smoky, leathery.


A tenacious woody smoky leathery quite diffusive.
A phenolic tarry woody smoky leathery, diffusive material.

Cade Oil
Castoreum Abs.
Castorium Abs. C ' Less
Castoreum Abs. 50 BB
Castoreum Givco 116

Intense tar like smoky phenolic odor.


Warm animal leather like sweet odor.
Strong and warm resembles birch tar oil, leather like.
Rich animal leather note extracted from beaver castors.
Castoreum Givco is a reconstitution of the natural oil, which it can replace in
equal amounts. This reconstitution contains only synthetic ingredients and
plant-based naturals. It reflects all the typical warm, animal, leather-like notes
and is a highly interesting note for use in chypre, tobacco, leather and fougre
types.
Castoreum Hyper Abs.
Very powerful warm animal like scent.
Castoreum Oliffac
An economical consistent quality substitute for castoreum.
Castoreum 172 SA
Warm, animal, leather like sweet odor with distinct smoky note.
Castoreum Resin
Strong and warm resembling birch tar oil.
Castoreum Resin Synthetic Excellent reproduction of the natural material.
Castoreum Resinoid
Strong and warm leather like sweet odor of the beaver.
Castoreum Tincture
A alcoholic prepared extract of the castoreum beaver quite characteristic
of the natural product.
Castorium Synthetic 172 SAB A very strong sweet animal odor typical of the beaver.
Castorium 10 " Pauls "
Tenacious and warm birch tar like phenolic.
Castorium Tincture
Warm animal leather like sweet odor.
Cedrafix
Woody, cedar, leather.
Cedryl Acetate
Woody slight leathery with earthy undertone resembles vetiver.
Di Ispropyl Phenol (DIP)

Has a faint hydrocarbon phenolic type odor.

Hydrocarbon Resin S B

Balsamic leather.

Iso Butyl Quinoline

Used in chypre, leather and woody compositions. It is widely used


in masculine colognes where its vibrant, intense leather character

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Glen O. Brechbill

298

can be used to great advantage. Powerful and long lasting.


Leather Base FM1064
Leather Base FM1064B
Leather 3768 - LWS

Fine leather goods, woody, animalic undertones.


More economical quality less costly then Leather Base FM1064.
A powerful diffusive leather fragrance.

Suederal HT
Suederal LT

Concentrated true leather odor reminiscent of finest tanned hides.


Leather odor reminiscent of finest tanned hides with a lighter note.

2, 6, Xylenol

Sweet rooty odor of leather.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrances - Chypre Leather

CHYPRE LEATHER
Fragrance notes derived from genuine leather are dominate in this accord. Typical components can include
Birch Tar Oil that is distilled from Birch Trees. Cade Oil can often be used to simulate the odor including
Costus Oil. Other materials include Cedryl Acetate, 2, 6 Xylenol, Suderal LT & HT plus the Quinolines. Of
course fine leather bases such as Leather LWS - 3768, and Hydrocarbon SB are often used to great effect. Great
care has to be taken to tame the materials. Keep in mind some have restrictive uses in the European Union that
includes Birch Tar Oil. I clearly remember on one occasion sampling this odor finding it lasted on a smelling
strip well over a month.
Top

Tangerine 2 %
Lime 1 %, Pineapple 1 %, Tangerine 2 %,

Fruity

Bergamot 1 %
Middle
Vertofix 5 %
Iso E Super 5 %
Amyl Salicylate .5 %
Base

Rose 3 %
Jasmin 4 %, Carnation 1.5 %, Muguet 5 %

Floral

Violet 3 %
Musk 7 %
Black Agar Resin 1 %, Tonka 1.5 %
Leather 1.5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 1 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Sweet Leather

Glen O. Brechbill

300

Chypre Leather # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

1
6
11
3
15
27
42
9
6
4
7
28
63
38
7
1
14
45
3
8
6
9
13
22
8
7
303
11
29
8
7
.2
17
4
11

Birch Tar Oil rectified


Tonalid
Benzoato Benzila
Acetatyl Iso Eugenol
Coumarin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Iso E Super
Sandalwood
English Leather Base
Cedryl Acetate 50
Koavonne
Di Isopropyl Phenol
Galaxolide
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Black Agar Givco 215
Cade Oil
Eugenol
Vetiver Extender
Labdanum Resinoide
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Citronellol FCC
Organic Shampoo Base
Ionone Beta
Geraniol 98
Woodynol - I
Fir Balsam Canada
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Acetato Iso Bornila
Lindenol
Dihydromyrcenol
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Taqngerine Brazil
Lilial
Lavender Citrus Base

Fragrance Ingredient

8
.1
6
9
53
8
3
1
1
.1
5
1
4
1
.1
2
4
69
4
13
1
3
12

Pine Oil 907


Birch White Rett Essence
Amyl Salicylate
Lavender 40/42
Linalol S 97
Vetivert Oil - Bourbon
Tangerinol
Ionone
Carnaline
Fir Balsam Artessence
Methyl Cedryl Ketone For Soap
Musk Emeressence
Iso - Eugenol
Ambermor
Methyl Octine Carbonate
Florhydral
Bangalol
Linalyl Acetate
Dimetol
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Fixateur 404
Santalyl Acetate
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

301

Chypre Leather # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

27
.1
.1
19
10
14
7
9
.1
35
7
48
7
49
16
23
5
9
7
1
8
13
23
11
323
9
3
11
1
6
53
39
42
.1
8

Di Iso Propyl Phenol ( DIP )


Civet Tincture
Cade Oil rectified
Coumarin Substitute
Black Agar Givco 215
Benzyl Benzoate
Anandol
Cedryl Acetate 50 %
Iso Propyl Quinoline
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Cuir de Russe
Vertofix Coeur
Benzoin Siam # 2
Vertofix Coeur
Pine Oil 900
Leather LWS - 3768
Iso Methyl Cedryl Ketone A
Citronellol
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Methyl Amyl Ketone
Givescone
Eugenol 100 %
Geraniol 80
Methyl Ionone Beta
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Hydrocarbon Resin SB
Cedrol Texas
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Atralone
Kephalis
Galaxolide Artense
Benzyl Acetate Coeur
Linalol
Folione
Levenalis

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
9
.1
8
7
4
9
.2
8
1
.1
4
12
7
5
.8
3
6
1
2
.1
3
67

Aldehyde C - 12 MNA
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Linden Blossom
Vetiveryl Acetate Popular
Lindenol
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Fresh Pineapple
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Cedarwood Chinese
Rootanol 100
Aldehyde C - 11
Labdanum Resinoid
Florhydral
Benzyle Acetate
Tangerine
Iridales
Jasmonyl Acetate
Suderal LT
Corps Pamplemousse
Liguvert ABQ 7061
Anise Essence
Timberol
Linalyl Acetate

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

302

Chypre Leather # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

1
6
23
12
5
43
9
14
23
3
10
9
4
25
3
42
29
4
2
48
11
35
4
12
7
20
328
3
1
4
32
7
1
.1
3
.2

Birch Oil, Tar Rectified


Benzoin Sumatra Resinoid
2, 6 Xylenol
Benzyle Benzoate
Cedryl Acetate
Phthalate DEthyle
Benzyl Salicylate
Coumarin Pure
Di Isopropyl Phenol
Rose Crystals
Black Agar Givco 215
Vetamber
Suderal LT
Ionone Intermediate Base
Base 3
Acetate De Benzyle
Vetiver Extender
Ionone For Soap
Labdanum Resinoide
Hidroxicitronelal
Citronellol
Musk Gx 50 % BB
Di Metil Octanol
Eugenol
Iso & Super
Geraniol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Myraldyl Acetate
Symmusk
Ionone Beta
Iso E Super
Ocimene PQ
Basil Oil Sweet - USA
Zedemina Essence
Mysoriff
Aldehyde C - 12 MNA

Fragrance Ingredient

1
.1
8
3
.3
1
10
1
23
14
61
3
9
.1
4
2
.1
73
1
1
1
2
1
.1

Tangerinol
Tea Tree Oil
Lavender Oil 40/42
Vetiveryl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Valarian Root Oil
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Teak 10995
Citrus Retiulata - Tangerine
Suderal LT
Linalol
Serenolide
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Rosemary Leaves Oil
Styrax Resinoide
Turpentine SDW
Iso Propyl Quinoline
Linalyl Acetate Pure
Methyl Camomile
Santalum Citrinum
Carnaline
Benzyl Iso Eugenol Forte
Poivre 125
Sage Oil Dalmatian 30 %

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrances - Chypre Fresh

CHYPRE FRESH
A chypre fresh concept can include notes of sage, lavender, oakmoss, patchouli and resins. The scents have
a woodsy outdoor feel reminiscent of the forest.
Top

Bergamot 6 %
Jasmin .5 %, Ylang Ylang .5 %, Grape 1 %

Fresh Floral

Green Notes
Middle

Muguet 2 %

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 2.5 % Violet 8 %, Jasmin 7 %, Rose 6 % - Fruity


Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Verdantiol 1 %
Vetiver 4 %, Lavender 1 %
Methyl Benzoate .5 %
Patchouli 1.5 %
Base
Tonka 4 %, Sandalwood 3 %, Moss - Trace
Musk 3 %, Opoponax - Trace, Myrrh - Trace
Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 30 %

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Floral

Warm Spicy

Glen O. Brechbill

304

Chypre Fresh # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

39
14
24
3
1
42
27
32
1
23
9
5
10
44
29
63
5
23
.1
6
13
1
48
1
6
1
58
311
5
1
1
.1
14
23
2

Coumarin Pure
Pogostemon Cablin
Benzyl Salicylate
Acetate Iso Eugenol
Mousse De Metre
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Osyrol
Galaxolide 50
Iso - Eugenol
Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde - KAO
Armoise Tunisian
Opoponax Base
Amyl Salicylate
Vetiver Extender
Ethylene Brassylate
MDJ
Sandalwood Oliffac
Ionone For Soap
Evernyl
Citronellol Prime
Ionone 100 %
Iso Jasmone
Geraniol
Cedrafix
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Rose Crystals
Iraldeine Standard
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenylethylalcohol
Geranium Oil
Geranyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Bergamot Oil Italy
Linalool
Nutmeg Geranada

Fragrance Ingredient

4
5
9
3
4
8
3
5
1
8
6
4
1
3
2
4
31
.7
5
3
.1
1
4

Styrallyl Acetate
Aurantiol
Lavender Bulgaria Oil
DMBC - Acetate
Carnaline
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Vanilla Beans
Methyl Anthranilate
Rose Acetate
Bergamote Italy
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Methyl Benzoate
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Top Rose
Veraflor
Linalyl Acetate
Irisone Pure
Meranol
Sandalwood, India
Rose Oxide R
Muguet Alcohol
alpha - Ionone

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

305

Chypre Fresh # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

39
14
27
3
1
42
15
26
1
28
9
3
10
41
32
51
5
27
.1
6
13
1
48
1
6
1
47
329
8
1
1
.1
25
23
2
4
5

Rhodiascent Extra Pure


Patchouli Oil MD
Benzyle Salicylate
Acetate Iso Eugenol
( Lichen )
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Osyrol
Galaxolide 50
Iso - Eugenol
Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde
Armoise Tunisian
Opoponax Base
Amyl Salicylate
Vetiver Extender
Ethylene Brassylate
Hedione
Sandalwood Oliffac
Ionone For Soap
Florymoss - Givaudan
Citronellol Prime
Ionone 100 %
Iso Jasmone
Geraniol Pure
Cedrafix
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Rose Crystals
Iraldeine Standard
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenylethylalcohol
Geranium Oil
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Linalool
Nutmeg Geranada
Styrallyl Acetate
Aurantiol

Fragrance Ingredient

9
3
4
8
3
5
1
8
6
4
1
3
2
4
31
.7
5
3
.1
1
4

Lavender Bulgaria Oil


Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Carnation Flower
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Vanilla Beans
Methyl Anthranilate
Rose Acetate
Bergamote Italy
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Methyl Benzoate
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Jasmone
Rose Orient
Verdantiol
Linalyl Acetate
Irisone Pure
Meranol
Sandalwood, India
Rose Oxide R
Muguet Alcohol
alpha - Ionone

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

306

Chypre Fresh # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

39
14
27
3
1
42
27
29
3
24
8
3
10
41
32
66
5
20
.1
6
13
1
48
1
8
1
47
332
6
1
1
.1
9
23
2
4
5
9

Fragrance Ingredient

Coumarin cryst.
3
DMBC - Acetate
Pogostemon Cablin
4
Carnation Flower
Benzyle Salicylate
8
Methyl Ionone Gamma Supreme
Heliotropine
3
Vanilla Beans
Mousse De Metre
5
Methyl Anthranilate
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
1
Rose Acetate
Osyrol
1
Bergamote Italy
Galaxolide 50
6
Ylang Ylang Synthetic
Iso - Eugenol
4
Methyl Benzoate
Amyl Cinnamic Alehyde - KAO
1
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Armoise Tunisian
3
Jasmone
Opoponax Base
2
Top Rose
Amyl Salicylate
4
Verdantiol
Vetiver Extender
31
Linalyl Acetate
Ethylene Brassylate
.7
Irisone Pure
MDJ
5
Rose Acetate
Sandalwood Oliffac
3
Sandalwood, India
Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur
.1
Rose Oxide R
Evernyl
1
Muguet Alcohol
Citronellol Prime
4
alpha - Ionone
Ionone 100 %
Iso Jasmone
Geraniol
1,000
Cedrafix
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Rose Crystals
Iraldeine Standard
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Geranium Oil
Geranyl Acetate Pure
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Linalol S 97
Nutmeg Oil W.I.
Styrallyl Acetate
Aurantiol
Lavender Oliffac
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Masculine Fragrances - Chypre Green

CHYPRE GREEN
The chypre green accord incorporates the same group of aromatic chemicals. However, in this case often
Galbanum Oil and other green related floral materials are added to provide a fresh green effect.
Top

Bergamot 5 % - Fruity
Cassis 1 %, Peach 2 %, Pineapple 1.5 %

Floral Green

Green Notes, Violet Notes, Neroli .5 %, Apple - Trace


Middle

Argumen 2 %

Rose 7 %, Lily 1 %, Muguet 9 %


Iso E Super 8 %
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol 1 %
Jasmin 6 %, Hawthorn 1 %, Carnation .5 %, Reseda .5 %
Amyl Salicylate 1 %
Base

Fresh Floral

Moss - Trace
Sandalwood 3 %, Musk 3 %, Vanilla 1 %,
Patchouli 2 %

Cutters
Benzyl Salicylate 4 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 34 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Woody

Glen O. Brechbill

308

Chypre Green # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

42
27
1
.1
75
6
38
4
9
8
.1
7
1
20
11
65
.1
9
.1
4
5
91
4
11
9
329
1
4
3
14
3
.1
6
9
4
3

Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)


Sandalwood Extender
Evernyl
Civet Augalfor 5
Iso & Super
Vanalina
Benzyle Salicylate
Massada
Patchouli Oil J 871
Anisaldehyde PQ
Rosalva
Hydroxycitronellal 55
Iso Jasmone
Argumen Substitute
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Super Cepionate
Alcool C - 8
Lilie
Rose Orient
Ethyl Vanillin
Reseda Body
Hydoxycitronellal Extender
Nerol
Eugenol
Amyl Salicylate
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Mallow
Citronellol
Amyris Oil W.I.
Rose For Soap Base
Apple Oliffac S
Orange Essence Oil
Phenylethylalcohol
Brahmanol F
Meijiff
Oxanone

Fragrance Ingredient

72
1
3
14
5
.2
1
19
3
23
.1
4
2
1
1
16
.1
4
1
3
.1
1
1

Geraniol
Neroli Oil
Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1
Linalol
Irone Alfa
Di Ethyl Malonate
Florhydral
Aldeido C - 14
Myraldyl Acetate
Linalyl Actate Synthetic
Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Pearalate
Scennal
Jasmone
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Nonadienal
Top Galbanum 18.326
Mugone S 207M
Irone V
Leaf Acetal
Nerol Petals
Tangerine Oil Natural

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

309

Chypre Green # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

42
27
1
.1
75
4
38
4
9
8
.1
7
1
24
11
63
.1
9
.1
4
5
90
4
11
14
327
1
4
3
14
3
.1
6
9

Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)


Sandela
Evernyl
Civet Powder # 1A
Iso & Super
Vanalina
Benzyl Salicylate
Massada
Patchouli Oil J 871
Aubepine
Polarose
Hydroxycitronellal 55
Iso Jasmone
Argumen Substitute
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Super Cepionate
Alcool C - 8
Lilie
Adoxal
Ethyl, Vanillin
Reseda Body
Hydoxycitronellal Extender
Nerol
Eugenol
Amyl Salicylate
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Mallow
Citronellol
Indisan
Rose For Soap Base
Apple Oliffac S
Orange Essence Oil
Phenylethylalcohol
Brahmanol

Fragrance Ingredient

1
3
75
1
3
14
5
.2
1
19
3
23
.1
4
2
1
1
11
.1
4
1
3
.1
1
1

Meijiff
Raspberry Leaves
Geraniol 60
Neroli Oil
Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1
Linalol
Irone Alfa
Di Ethyl Malonate
Myraldyl Acetate
Aldeido C - 14
Myraldyl Acetate
Linalyl Actate Synthetic
Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Pearalate
Scennal
Jasmone
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Nonadienal
Top Galbanum 18.326
Mugone S 207M
Irone V
Leaf Acetal
Nerol
Tangerinol

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

310

Chypre Green # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

42
27
1
.1
75
6
38
4
9
4
.1
5
1
22
11
63
.1
13
.1
4
7
103
4
11
9
318
1
4
3
14
3
.1
6
9

Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)


Sandalwood Extender
Evernyl
Civet Ethopia
Iso E Super
Vanalina
Benzyle Salicylate
Massada
Patchouli Oil J 871
Anisaldehyde PQ
Rosalva
Hydroxycitronellal A
Methyl Jasmonate pure
Argumen Substitute
Di Methyl Phenyl Ethyl Carbinol
Super Cepionate
Alcool C - 8
Lilie
Alpha Damascone
Ethyl, Vanillin
Reseda Body
Hydoxycitronellal Extender
Nerol
Methyl Iso Eugenol
Amyl Salicylate
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Scennal
Citronellol nat.
Amyris
Rose For Soap Base
Apple Oliffac S
Orange Essence Oil
Phenylethylalcohol
Brahmanol

Fragrance Ingredient

4
3
72
1
3
14
5
.2
1
19
3
23
.1
4
2
1
1
16
.1
4
1
3
.1
1
1

Meijiff
Raspberry Leaves - IFF
Geraniol 98 %
Neroli Oil
Bergamot FCF Green Gr. 1
Linalol
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Di Ethyl Malonate
Florhydral
Aldeido C - 14
Myraldyl Acetate
Linalyl Actate Synthetic
Rose Abs/
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Perryfix
Scennal
Jasmone
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Nonadienal
Top Galbanum 18.326
Mugone S 207M
Irone V
cis -3 - hexenyl Salicylate
Nerol Petals
Tangerine Oil Brazil

1,000

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Citrus Fragrance Chemicals

Abbarome 011
Acerola
Acetate C - 10
Alcohol C - 8
Alcohol C - 11 Lenic
Alcohol C - 11 Saturated
Aldehyde C - 10
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Aldehyde C - 12 MOA
Aldehyde Mandarine 10 %
Aldenal C - 9
Aldenal C - 10
Alpha Terpinene
Auralva

Citrus, herbal, fresh.


Any of various species of the genus Malpighia. The fruit has a citrusy like
fragrance sweet and fresh.
Sweet fatty fruity odor of pineapple orange.
Powerful fresh, orange rose like waxy & sweet odor.
Fresh rather fatty odor, citrusy waxy rosy, petal like note.
Oily fruity floral citrussy odor slight fatty overall fresh.
Powerful sweet waxy orange peel like odor.
Powerful waxy rosy citrusy odor.
An aldehyde with a citrus tangerine note.
A mandarin orange fresh and citrusy.
Blend of saturated unsaturated aldehydes powerful fresh and waxy citrus.
Blend of powerful, fresh citrus odor.
Refreshing lemony citrusy odor.
Neroli orange, muguet, grape odored schiff's base.

Bergamal
Bergamot Augaflor 4

Refreshing, aldehydic lemon, petitgrain note.


Characteristically bergamot, this compounded specialty has a
fruity, woody, slightly sweet fragrance. Can be used up to 5 %
in many medias.
Bergamot Eco Essence
A sweet fruity odor typical of the bergamot orange.
Bergamot FCC
Rich sweet fruity.
Bergamot Givco 104
This reconstitution is bergapten-free and has no phototoxic potential. This
is a bergamot that replaces the essential oil with superior stability and
performance in functional products.
Bergamot LCNP
Alternative to bergamot, low cost non phototoxic.
Bergamot NPT
Closely resembles odor of bergamot oil, non phototoxic.
Bergamot Oil Italian
A fresh odor of the delightful bergamot natural source is Italy.
Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast
Sweet fruity bergamot odor that smells right off the west coast of
Africa.
Bergamot Oil Non Sensitizing Characteristic of the natural oil with natual sensitizing components
removed in our special distillation process.
Bergamot Oil Rectified
A natural bergamot oil fragrance rectified to enhance its effect in
many different fragrance formulations.
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Bergamot Oil Reconst.


Bergamot Super Oliffac
Bergamot Terpeneless Extra
Bergamote 17.530 SA
Bergamyl Acetate
Beta Pinene Coeur
Bitter Orange NPT

Juicy, natural reconstitution.


Low cost simulation of the bergamot note for general purposes.
Extremely smooth dry and clean of sweet bergamot.
Rich, sweet fruity initial odor with balsamic body and dry out.
A sweet bergamot orange fragrance.
Pine, citrus, lime.
Odor similar to the West Indies bitter orange oil free of phtototoxicity.
Bitter Orange Oil Cold Pressed A citrusy orange type odor.
Bitter Orange Oil 5 Fold
Slightly bitter but yet fruity citrusy orange odor.
Bitter Orange Oliffac 301
Economical replacement for West Indies bitter orange oil dry citrus.
Cedrat Peel Oil
Cedrat Petitgrain Oil
Citracetal
Citral
Citral Di Ethyl Acetal
Citral Di Methyl Acetal
Citral Di Methyl Acetal Pure
Citral Extra
Citral 700
Citral 750
Citral 850
Citral 900
Citral Residues
Citral Terpenes
Citral X Lemon
Citral X Litsea
Citralex
Citralva
Citralva Plus
Citrathal
Citrathanil ABQ7023
Citric Acid Amhydrus
Citrilys Givco 169

Citrofuran AB5531
Citronal
Citron Leaf Rectified Oil
Citronalva
Citronama

A citrus fruit that resembles the lemon in appearance.


Oil obtained from the leaves and twigs of the sour orange.
Citrus like odor, close to citral in it's strength.
Powerful lemony fragrance.
Fine, fresh, citrusy stable in alkalis, fresher then nitrile.
Has a milder but much more natural lemon odor than citral.
Very pleasant, floral lemon note.
Finest quality of citral.
Strong lemon odor suitable for chemical intermediate use.
Grade suitable for chemical intermediate use.
Clean, fresh citrus lemon odor.
Intermediate grade, citrus lemon odor.
A verbana grassy sweet type odor very diffusive.
Harsh citral lemon odor.
Fresh, juicy lemon peel, with a sweet tang nuance.
Powerful, fresh top note, lemon.
Fresh lemon, clean citrus odor resembling citral.
Powerful oily green lemony fresh odor.
Intense lemon character, non discoloring.
Distinctive fresh lemon lime lasts one day.
Is more green floral and tenacious lemon then agrudor.
A crystalline acid with a pleasant acid taste.
A pleasant citrus accord which evokes freshly squeezed tangerine peel blended
with floral marine notes, giving it an unusual sparkling zest. The fruity back
ground enhances the composition's natural aspect. Extremely diffusive and
long-lasting, it performs well in most functional product bases. Designed for
use as a top and middle note, it gives freshness and volume to all citrus, floral
and green accords.
Is a more lavandacious citrus complex containing rhubafuran.
Fruity.
Tree native to asia having lemon like fruit with aromatic rind.
Citrus, lemon, aldehydic, metallic.
Intense orange, ginger, palmarosa with ozone muguet aspects.
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Citronellal
Citropal
Citrotone B
Citrus Base
Citrus Terpenes
Citryl Acetate
Citryl Nitrile
Citryl Nitrile B - 1313
Clonal
Decanol Natural
Decanal - 4 - Trans

Di Hydro Linalool
Di Hydro Myrcenol
Di Hydro Myrcenyl Acetate

Di Hydro Terpineol
Di Hydro Terpinyl Acetate
D ' Limonene
Di Methyl Anthranilate
Di Methyl Octenone

Dimetol
Di Myrcetol
Dipentene 122
Elemi Essence
Elemi Oil
Elemi Resinoid
Ethyl Linalyl Acetate

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Powerful fresh green citrusy, slight woody odor.


Moderate citrus type odor.
Clean fresh fruit odor generally citrus, for all citrus types.
Strong odor to lemon peels similar to melissa oil.
Based on d-Limonene this fresh citrusy fragrance is a perfumers
delight helping to create fresh fruit blends and bases.
Includes features of bergamot oil with delicate lemon top note.
A very strong lemon form of citral not pleasant lemon odor.
Dry hay like, fresh lemon, citral note.
Dry orange peel note for citrus, bergamot cologne types.
A diffusive natural orange, but not of great tenacity.
Is an exceptionally strong and diffusive chemical. Used mainly as a
top note ingredient, it produces a fresh, natural, citrus-like effect,
imparting tremendous lift.
Fresh floral citrusy.
Powerful fresh lime like.
Sparkling, fresh lime, lavender lasts one hour.
Floral, citrus, lime pine.
Fresh piney citrusy.
Citrus orange.
Heavy orange blossom mandarin peel odor.
Can be used to great advantage in citrus accords where it underlines the natural
bitterness of the fruit. Its combination with fresh notes is much appreciated for
the difusion that it brings to compositions. Its utilization with certain modern
accords can give original and natural grapefruit character.
Powerful lime cologne like odor similar to di hydro myrcenol.
Fresh citrus lime like odor.
Fresh and sweet citrusy lemon.
Fresh lemon like.
Fresh spicy lemon.
Fresh terpeney peppery lemon.
Is softer, more floral, more bergamot and less lavender than Linalyl Acetate. It
has an elegant, refreshing effect in floral bouquets.

Feuilles D ' Oranger Abs.

Reconstituted feuilles d ' oranger.


Feuilles E ' Oranger Abs. Eau Floral odor of feuilles d ' oranger.
Gamma Terpenes
Geraldehyde
Geranonitrile
Gloria ABQ7022
Grapefruit Oil 5 Fold

Citrus odor.
Intense aldehydic note with marine, floral and citrus moieties.
Fruity green, lemon.
Is a more citrusy fantasy base with a musky dry down.
Citrusy grapefruit slightly sweeter then grapefruit oil of Florida.
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Grapefruit Oil of Florida


Grapefruit Oil Nardenised
Grapefruit Oil Terpenes
Grapefruit Base # 15794 B
Grapefruit Body Fleurom
Grapefruitone

Tangy, citrusy grapefruit nice and fresh.


A tingling, fresh deterpenised oil lasts several weeks.
Fresh citrusy rather sweet odor.
A typical odor of a very ripe grapefruit.
Extremely powerful green grapefruit odor.
Is a sweet fruity specialty with a grapefruit rind character.

Helioforte
Heliomet
2, 4 Hexadien 1 AL
Hexadienal 2 Trans 4 Trans
Hypo-Lem

Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.


Schiff base, sweet fruity orange, methyl anthranilate.
Fresh, spicy green, floral citrusy odor used as top note.
Green fruity aldehydic citrus use in melon, kiwi, tropical fruit.
Citrus, aldehydic lemon.

Iso Bornyl Cyclo Citral

A citrus lemon fruit type odor.

Jonquille Jacinthe Abs.

A moderate orange that is yellower and stronger then honey dew.

Khadija

Musk, ambre, citrus oriental bouquet.

Leila

Lilacs in full bloom spiced with a hint of bergamot. A romantic


spring bouquet conjuring visions of victorian elegance and the
Belle Epoque.
Lemarome N
Extensively used for its lemon effect in cologne blends. Is also
extremely useful in certain floral compositions where it imparts
a unique natural freshness.
Lemon Basil Oil
The citral content of 41% gives this oil a verbena like quality
while the basil side is not very evident.
Lemon Essence HC Free
A natural oil which has had terpene, and sequisterpenes removed.
Lemon Givco 112
This base is an imitation of natural lemon odour that in addition has excellent
stability and substantivity in all kinds of finished products. This Givco was
especially developed for difficult bases like H.D.L.D. and H.D.P.D. Has strong
diffusion & good impact on wet laundry.
Lemongrass Oil Chinese
Strong grassy lemon type.
Lemongrass Oil Cochin
Otherwise known as East Indian lemongrass oil. The finest essential
oils odor varies depending on content of citral and other components.
Lemongrass Oil Guatemala A very strong grassy lemon type.
Lemongrass Oil Indian
Citral content lower then above, but at same time similar.
Lemongrass Oil Nardenised Lemon fresh, deterpenised oil lasts a few days.
Lemongrass Oil Rectified
Appears more lemony and sweet less verbena.
Lemongrass Oil Terpeneless A verbena green grassy odor free from harsh terpenes.
Lemonile
Is used in lemon, verbena and lime compositions where it imparts freshness
and diffusion. This nitrile is an extremely powerful chemical and has excellent
stability in alkaline media.
Lemon Isolate
Is a natural distilled product with a fresh juicy tart lemon.
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Lemon Juicy
Lemon Oil
Lemon Oil 5 Fold
Lemon Oil Italian
Lemon Oil of California
Lemon Oil Reconstructed
Lemon Oil Spanish
Lemon Oil Synthetic
Lemon Oil Washed
Lemon Petitgrain Oil
Lemonrone Lemonrone
Lemon Terpenes
Lemorale
Lemon 360
Lemsyn
Lime AB402
Lime Blossom

Fresh juicy lemon with a sweet citral terpeney nuance.


Typical lemon and refreshing.
Purer sweeter lemon.
A lemon which is sweet and juicy from Italy.
Sweet juicy lemon.
A reconstituted fragrance closely resembling the essential oil.
Sweet, fruity odor of lemon, source Spain.
Low cost reconstitution lasts one day.
A slightly lighter and sweeter juicy lemon.
Strong fresh odor with a woody dry out.
Powerful lemon fragrance very chemical like.
Mildly lemon.
Brisk fresh top note useful for lemon limes bergamot herbal.
A slightly sweet fruity lemon odor.
Synthetic citral.
Sweet yet sharp lasts a few weeks.
The oil made from the flowers has a fresh green muguet lily like fragrance.
Can be used as a floralizer to create interesting effects in many blends.
Lime Exp. H C Free
A natural oil which has terpene and sequesterpene removed.
Lime Expressed NPT
Similar odor to the natural expressed oil free of phototoxic.
Lime Oil Distilled
A tart sour ball candy like lime odor, very sweet.
Lime Oil Distilled 4 Fold W.I. A tart lime odor vacum distilled for terpene removal.
Lime Oil # 410
Oily sweet fruity lime.
Lime Oil 4 Fold
Sweeter juicer resulting from vacum distillation process.
Lime Oil Expressed
A lime fragrance fresh from the peel very reminiscent.
Lime Oil Expressed 4 Fold W.I. A fresh slightly tart peel like in sweetness lime odor.
Lime Oil Nardenised
Sweet, pure deterpinseed oil with petitgran character on dry out.
Lime Oil Reconstructed
A reconstituted oil closely resembling the odor of a lime.
Lime Oil Roses Type
Sweet, juicy, candy lime like with a fresh peel character.
Lime Terpenes
Lime.
Lime Oil Terpeneless
Lime oil with the terpenes removed.
Lime Oil Sequisterpeneless Lime oil terpene free.
Lime Oxide
Adds freshness and intensity to perfumes designed for functional products
It is also a powerful citrus booster with excellent stability in many applications
applications, including bleach.
Limetol
Is used where a lemon-woody note is desired. It also offers pine needle and
lime nuances.
Limettal ABQ5701
Tingling, fresh floral aldehydic, long lasting.
Limettene
Very strong pleasant fresh citrus note.
Limonene - D
Fresh and light sweet citrussy odor resembles orange peel.
Limonene 130
Fresh hydrocarbon type lemon odor.
Limonene Tech.
Fresh clean citrus odor of the orange.
Linaloe Wood Essence
Floral rose citrus, soft and sweet.

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Linalyl Acetate
Linalyl Acetate Synthetic
Linalyl Benzoate
Linalyl Butyrate
Linalyl Cinnimate
Linalyl Formate
Linalyl Iso Butyrate
Linalyl Propionate
Litsea Cubeba Rectified Oil
Litsea Cubeba Terpenes
Lolitol

Sweet floral fruity odor, bergamot, pear.


Widely used for its typical bergamot freshness and lavender characteristic.
Balsamic floral bergamot fruity odor.
Heavy fruity sweet bergamot like.
Mild and balsamic sweet.
Fresh citrusy green bergamot like.
More floral less fruity then n butyrate.
Fruity floral fresh very sweet bergamot.
Intense citrus fruity lemon like.
Now as sweet as regular litsea cubeba.
Fresh floral muguet with citrus nuances.

Mandarin AB646
Mandarin Oliffac
Mandarinal
Mandarinal 32.048 SA
Mandarin Ald. 10 Citrate
Mandarin Italian Select
Melissa Oil
Melissa Resinoid
Methanyl Acetate
Methyl Octyl Ketone
Mugol Extra
Myrcene
Myrcenol 50
Myrcenol Super
Myrcenyl Acetate

The juicy zest base is built around citrathal.


Sweet characteristic citrus mandarin note.
A powerful fresh citrus aldehydic mandarin orange.
Powerful, fresh citrus aldehydic note of mandarin.
An aldehydic mandarin orange.
Intensely sweet not very fresh orange odor.
Has a sweet fresh lemon like scent.
A herb obtained by distilling lemon oil over the herb.
Piney citrusy type odor.
Powerful citrusy orange.
Soft woody, citrus lime note with floral aspects.
Refreshing almost citrussy.
An excellent cologne note with a citrus lime quality.
Fresh, citrus.
Sweet citrus.

Nardozeste ABQ5031
Neoproxen
Neral Crude 88 %
Nerger Formate
Nerol Coeur
Nerol G
Neryl Geranyl Acetate
Nonanal Di Methyl Acetal
Nootkatone Purified

Powerful, dry lemon peel note.


Herbal, leafy, green citrus.
Sweet floral citral lemony type fragrance.
Tangy, sweet citrusy, lime, lemon, bergamot odor.
Moderately priced lemon verbena note dominating the rosy.
A powerful refreshing, clean lemon rose odor.
Citrus sweet floral.
Refreshing, citrus, floral green odor.
Citrus grapefuit odor.

Octacetal
Orafleur
Orange Aldehyde
Orange Carbinyl
Orange Carbonyls
Orange Des Indes 68A817

Fresh, clean citrus character reminiscent of orange.


Powerful neroli, orange flower note, fresh and diffusive.
Powerful, dilution - sweet orange like, fatty odor.
Fruity orange.
Natural orange juice odor.
A nice clean fresh orange odor with a discreet spicy note.
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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Orange Essence Oil


Orange Flavor Zing.
Orange Flower Absolute

A natural oil free from terpene and sequesterpenes.


Green, fresh juicy sweet orange for juicy top notes in citrus blends.
Has a very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh,
long lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms.
Although this absolute certainly has notes in common with jasmin absolute, it
has a much more versatile application as a floral fond when used at a comparatively low concentration. It shows a pleasant, but peculiar and characteristic,
sweet herbaceous backnote, not unlike the one found in jasmin.
Orange Flower Bitter
Very intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm, but also delicate and fresh, long
lasting odor, closely resembling the odor of fresh bitter orange blossoms.
Orange Flower Concrete
A dark, brownish or orange brown paste or soft mass. Its odor is extremely
strong, floral, deep sweet, with a peculiar woody breadcrust like backnote and
great tenacity in floral notes. In high dilution, it is strikingly reminiscent of the
odor of fresh orange blossoms.
Orange Flower Ether
Citrus grapefuit note also reminiscent of bergamot orange.
Orange Guinea Oil
Sweet fruity, reminiscent of the orange peel.
Orange Isolate
Has odor of natural peel, juicy with a rich aldehydic tone.
O.J. Carbinyl STD
Very juicy with an orange top note.
O.J. Carbinyl VCV
Orange, source is most likely valencia oranges.
Orange Juice Extract Natural 4/10 Very characteristic of freshly squeezed oranges without the pulp or slight bitter
taste that naturally occurs in the fresh fruit. Overall a delightful fragrance suitable for many different creative blends.
Orange Oil Bitter
Bright bitter odor of oranges.
Orange Oil California
Sweet orange peel like odor.
Orange Oil Distilled
Orange peel like slightly less sweet and juicy.
Orange Oil 5 Fold
A very weak orange peel like odor.
Orange Oil Fla. Mid Season Fruity orange.
Orange Oil Guinea C.P.
Orange, source Guinea, a country located on the west coast of Africa.
Orange Oil Nardenised
A beautiful sweet, deterpenised oil.
Orange Residue
Orange peel type odor, however not sweet like california oranges.
Orange Oil Sweet
Sweet fruity odor of oranges.
Orange Terpenes
Sweet fruity orange.
Orange Terpeneless
A nice light rich very smooth orange odor.
Orange Terpeneless
Sweet fruity orange peel like, very nice.
Orange Oil Terpeneless Special A A sweet fruity very smooth orange soda like odor.
Orange Oil Terpeneless Extra A delicately sweet orange peel odor reminiscent of orange preserves.
Orange Terpeneless X 5 Fold A very weak pure orange odor.
Orange Oil Valencia
Orange, source valencia type florida oranges.
Orange Wax
A real orange peel like odor, neither sweet or juicy.
Oranger Crystals
Sweet and very tenacious orange blossom.
Oranger Guiena Essence
Sweet fruity and characteristic of orange peel.
Oranger Liquid
Sweet floral rather harsh orange blossom.
Ozonil
Very strong fruity reminiscent of nuances in orange and mandarin oil.

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Glen O. Brechbill

Pamplefleur
Petitgrain Abs.
Petitgrain Bigarade Abs.

Citrus, grapefruit, floral vetivert.


The best of petitgrain oil free of terpenic harsh by notes.
A beautiful product where the sulphur notes of petitgrain are
muted. Has a green tea, citrus like woody note representing
the essential oil to its finest.
Petitgrain Bigarade Oil
Pleasant fresh floral sweet odor.
Petitgrain Citronnier Oil
Distinct and pleasant, a fresh lemony floral woody odor.
Petitgrain Oil Moroc Sur Fleurs Fresh floral citrus scent and a woody-herbaceous undertone.
Petitgrain Oil Mandarin
A fresh lemony floral woody odor extremely tenacious.
Petitgrain Oil Paraguay
Strong, bitter sweet, woody floral odor. The topnote is somewhat harsh, but it
quickly gives way to a heavy and sweet bodynote of typical petitgrain character,
bitter floral, with a sweet and slightly woody backnote. The dryout, which
comes quickly since the odor of this oil is not very tenacious, is sweet and
slightly woody floral. According to the age of the oil, there are wide variations
in the topnote of its odor. Most often, the topnote smells like the topnote of
crude bois de rose oil, almost nutmeg like and warm spicy.
Petitgrain Oil S A
A fresh lemony floral woody odor.
Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless
Diffusive less bitter sweet floral woody odor.
Psuedo Linalyl Acetate
Citrus, bergamot floral lavender.
Rhodinol Augaflor 18

Schiff Base
Sino Citral
Sinocitril ABQ4020
Stymonile ABQ7020
Tamarine Base 41.310
Tangelo Oil

Tangerine Essence
Tangerine Oil
Tangerine Oil Florida
Tangerine Terpenes
Tangerine Type Oil
Tangeris Givco 212

This crisp, citrusy type compound can implant an element of Lemon in a per
fume. Gives the finished fragrance a freshness of smell, and touch much sought
after.
Ligantraal, green citrus, orange blossom best in 10 % solution.
Fresh citral lemony with a floral background.
Powerful aldehydic floral which has an enhanced tangerine character.
Is a zesty citrusy, radiant, ozone fresh complex.
Very diffusive and natural note of the green mandarine.
The fragrance is a cross between a grapefruit and a tangerine. They
have become a popular fruit commercially, since they are larger
than tangerines with less seeds. Altogether fresh and citrusy.
Fruity, characteristic sweet tangy tangerine.
Fresh sweet odor reminiscent of valencia oranges.
Fresh sweet odor of valencia oranges.
Fresh sweet fruity odor of valencia oranges.
Sweet tangy tangerine like reminiscent of the peel.
A pleasant citrus accord that evokes freshly squeezed tangerine peel, blended
with floral, marine notes that give it an unusual sparkling zest. The fruity back
ground enhances the composition's natural aspect. Extremely diffusive and
long-lasting, it performs well in most functional product bases. Designed for
use as a top and middle note, it gives freshness and volume to all citrus, floral
and green accords.

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

Terpinene Gamma
Terpinyl Acetate Extra
Terpinyl Acetate (CST)
Terpinyl Acetate (GUM)
Tetra Hydro Mugol Coeur
Tetra Hydro Myrcenol
Triplal
Triplal Extra

Terpeney, sweet, citrus with tropical and lime nuances.


Sweet slightly herbaceous of the bergamot lavender.
Sweet, herbal, bergamot pure.
Sweet, herbal, bergamot lavender.
Floral, citrus woody.
Citrus, lime, sweet juicy.
Powerful citrus green.
Green, citrus, herbal, aldehydic.

Unitene D

Piney lemony type odor.

Vandor B
Vertocitral

Aldehydic, green, citrus fatty.


Strong grassy green note, citric, somewhat herbal camphor like.

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Masculine Fragrances - Citrus Floral

CITRUS FLORAL
A citrus floral arrangement is predominately floral based with a distinctive citrus note.
Top
Hexyl Salicylate 1 %
Vanoris 1 %

Lime 5 %
Grapefruit 4 %, Mandarin 1.5 %, Bergamot 9 % - Fruity

Citrus

Green Notes .3 %, Pineapple 1 %, Basil 1 %


Middle
Vertofix 2 %
Iso E Super 2 %
Pine Oil 3 %
Base

Lavender 3 %
Violet # %, Muguet 4 %, Carnation 3 %

Fresh Floral

Jasmin 7 %
Musk 1 %
Sandalwood 2 %, Tonka 1.5 %, Vanilla .5 %
Patchouli 2 %

Bases:
Orange Base, Bergamot Base, dLimonene Substitute
Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 2 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 20 %

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Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

321

Citrus Floral # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

8
14
10
3
11
40
1
.1
9
24
8
.1
4
2
31
223
9
1
15
19
21
5
3
4
147
9
3
77
5
7
.1
28
8
7

Sandela
Coumane
Benzyl Alcohol
Vanalina
Sandec Givco
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Mousse De Chenne
Spirambrene
Iso E Super
Benzyl Salicylate
Gamma Terpenes
Oranger Crystals
Indisan
Ethyl Vanillin
Hydroxycitronellal A
dLimonene Substitute
Para Cymene
Folrosia
Carnation Base
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Geraniol 98 %
Myrcene
Citronellol
Di Hydro Iso Eugenol
Hercolin - D
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Geranyl Acetate
Hedione
Diola
Lyral
Aldehyde C - 11
Bergamit Oil Substitute
Vertofix
Allyl Amyl Glycolate

Fragrance Ingredient

5
13
51
44
3
11
3
.1
35
1
6
1
9
4
53
1
.1
.1
1
3
.4
1
1
1
.1
1

Verdyl Acetate
Hexyle Salicylate
Dihydromyrcenol
Linalool Synthetic
Grapefruit Body Fleurom
Iso Nonyl Acetate
Styrallylacetate
Aldehyde C - 12 Lauric
Grapefruit California C.P. Pink
Muguet Alcohol
Cycloprop
Levenalis
Dimetol
Myraldyl Acetate
Linalyl Acetate
Grapefruitone
Nonadienal
Ocimenyl Acetate
Citronella Oil
Bergamot
Aurantesin
Clemenflor
Lemonile
Santal
Aromabase Strawberry
Bourgenal

1,000

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322

Citrus Floral # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

11
13
.1
7
15
23
16
3
28
11
14
4
5
41
73
9
8
4
8
195
6
19
65
1
3
7
55
11
4
11
.3
16
3
38
9

Musk 50 DPG
Benzyl Alcohol
Lichen
Sandalore
Cou Marin
Benzyle Salicylate
Iso E Super
Heliomet
Iso Bornyl Acetate
Vanisal
Patchouli Oil Light
Citronellal
Ionone Alpha 60
Muguet Base
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Eugenol
Myrcene
Citronellol
Lavandulas
DLimonene Substitute
Vanillinethyl
Geraniol 60
Hercolyn - D
Iso Eugenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Lavender Oliffac
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Gamma Terpenes
Methyl Ionone Gamma
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Vanoris ( Iso Nonyl Acetate )
Laurine - Givaudan
Grapefruit Oil South African C.P.
Hexyl Salicylate

Fragrance Ingredient

5
3
6
11
31
6
38
6
1
5
63
24
3
11
5
.1
2
3
4
3
.1
.1

Methyl Chavicole
Acetate De Styralyle
Clonal
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate
Linalol
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Grapefruit Oil White Indian
Lysmeral
Santalol
Mandarine, Itlaian C.P.
Linalyl Acetate
Dihydro Myrcenol
Bergamot Oil ( Misc Origins )
Verdyl Propionate
Dimetol
Leaf Alcohol
Grapefruitone
Ocimene PQ
Alpha Ionone 70 %
Citralva
Orange Essence Oil
Bay Leaves

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

323

Citrus Floral # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

7
6
19
22
14
20
1
3
42
6
27
58
1
250
3
8
115
3
5
9
6
2
23
.1
14
7
12
1
22
7
27
41
16
3
.3
4

Rhodiascent
Cedrenyl Acetate
Alcool Benzilico
Patchouli Oil Indonesia
Sandela
Benzyl Salicylate
Moss Oliffac
Vanillin
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Levinalis
Vertofix
Benzyl Acetate
Jasmone
d Limonene Substitute
Lioral
Pin Silvestre de France i.n.
Hercolyn - D
Iso Amyl Geranate
Koavonne
Eugenol
Citronellol Coeur
Vanillinethyl
Jasmin Artificial Base
Lichen
Geraniol
Citralva
Benzyle Benzoate
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Citral 750
Ionone Alpha
Lemongrass Oil Java
Linalol
Dihydromyrcenol
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Hexyl Salicylate

Fragrance Ingredient

3
11
9
13
7
.1
39
.1
4
2
1
.1
27
4
1
.3
6
3
11
1
2
53
4

Acetate De Styralyle
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Natural Nootkatone 80 - 85 %
Dimetol
Iso Nonyl Acetate
Aldeido C - 10
Grapefruit Cyprus White
Undecatriene 10 %
Methanyl Acetate
Scennal
Lemon Essence Oil
Peach Blossom FM 1042
Lime Oil Washed
Mandarinal
Fruitalire
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Verdyl Acetate
Methyl Ionone Alpha Iso
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Berryflor
Verdyl Propionate
Linalyl Acetate
Litsea Cubeba Oil

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

324

Masculine Fragrances - Citrus Fantasy

CITRUS FANTASY
A citrus fantasy concept can also have a floral theme different base materials including the combination of
many different citrus notes to produce different effects.
Bergamot 10 %

Top

Orange 9 %, Lemon 4 %, Grapefruit 2 %

Fresh Citrus

Lemongras 1 %, Peach 1.5 %, Neroli 1 %, Verbena .5 %, Apple - Trace


Middle

Vetiver 1.5 %
Jasmin 7 %, Muguet 3.5 %, Rose 2 %

Floral

Violet 4 %, Lavender 2 %
Vanilla 2 %

Base

Moss - Trace, Sandalwood 3 %, Tonka .5 %


Patchouli 2 %, Pine 1 %
Bases:
Bergamot, Lemon Arizona, Orange, Orange Flower
Cutters
Benzyl Benzoate 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 19 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Warm

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

325

Citrus Fantasy # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

9
5
4
25
.1
35
14
17
3
20
1
3
24
6
3
14
3
27
9
63
4
11
163
9
1
28
5
7
35
8
209
9
.3
15
.1

Benzyl Benzoate
Cumarone 3157 P
Vanilline
Sandalwood Extender
Mousse De Metre
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Vertofix Coeur
Patchouli Oil F 867
Oranger Crystals
Gamma Terpenes
Jasmone
Sandela
Benzyl Salicylate
Pine Oil White
Muskylein
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Iso Amyl Geranate
Hydroxycitronellol synthetic
Iso Eugenol Replacement
Super Cepionate
Methyl Ionone Alpha Extra
Citronellol 80
Dipentene 122
Citronella Oil Ceylon
Undecatriene 10 %
Hercolyn - D
Di Methyl Octanol
Alcool Benzilique
Geraniol
Cymene Para 95 %
Orange Oil Sweet
Valencene - ex Orange
Aldehyde C - 10
Litsea Cubeba Oil
Aldeido C - 10

Fragrance Ingredient

3
7
14
.1
35
1
.1
.3
1
3
47
6
17
.1
1
11
3
2
15
3
8
33

Neral, Refined 60 - 63 %
Lime Oil Washed
Verdox
Aldehyde C - 31
Linalool Extra 99 %
Muguet Aldehyde 50
Feuilles D Oranger Abs.
Raspberry Ketone
Verotyl
Citroflex # 2
Linalyl Acetate Ex Petitgrain
Methyl Pamplemousse
Lemon Oil of California
Leaf Alcohol
Clonal
Aldehyde C - 14
Helioforte
Citrilys Givco 169
Lemongrass Paraguay
Perryfix
Myrcenyl Acetate - IFF
Orange Terpenes

1,000

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Glen O. Brechbill

326

Citrus Fantasy # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

19
6
.1
47
1
1
28
1
1
11
4
1
86
9
5
13
25
9
4
.1
14
6
29
4
41
1
3
168
8
3
9
7
105
.3
41

Benzyl Alcohol
Vanisal
Amberwood
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Pine Oil Yarmor
Undecatriene
D-Limonene
Jasmon
Balsam Peru Oil
Citrathal
Sandela
Benzyle Butyrate
Super Cepionate
Citral 850
Jasphene
Myrcene
alpha - Ionone
Benzylacetate
Citronellol
Aldehyde C - 10
Gamma Terpenes
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Geraniol 60
Citrilys Givco 169
Hercolin D
Nerone
Peach Aldehyde
DLimonene Substitute
Lilial
Methyl Jasmonate Pure
Vanoris
Triplal - IFF
Orange Oil Sweet Cyprus
Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
Linalol

Fragrance Ingredient

1
1
8
39
3
73
.1
36
.1
.2
8
6
1
1
9
4
88
1
.1
5
3
1
.1

Benzaldehyde
Methyl Pamplemousse
Petitgrain Citroneer Oil
Sweet Orange Oil
Methyl Heptenone
Linalyl Acetate
Folione
Lemon Oil 340
Aldehyde C - 10
Anapear - Givaudan
Hydroxycitronellal 99 %
Pamplemousse E Blanc
Verbena Oliffac
Melaflor
Citronella 85/25 China
Grapefruit Australina
Limonene D
Orangeflor
Petilyn
Verdox
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Stymonile ABQ7020
Floralat

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

327

Citrus Fantasy # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

24
6
.1
42
1
3
25
1
1
9
7
1
76
19
5
13
25
9
17
.1
14
6
28
4
64
1
4
133
8
3
9
7
125
.3
41
1

Benzyl Alcohol FR
Vanilline
Ambergris
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Iso Bornyl Crystals
Undecatriene
D-Limonene
Jasmon
Balsam Peru Oil
Citrathal
Sandalina
Fruitline AB 876
Zeppin
Citral 700
Jasphene
Myrcene
Methyl Ionone
Benzyle Acetate
Citronellol
Aldehyde C - 10
Gamma Terpenes
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Geraniol 60
Citrilys Givco 169
Hercolin D
Nerolin
Peach Aldehyde
DLimonene Substitute
Lilial
Jasmorange
Vanoris
Triplal
Orange Oil Sweet Cyprus
Aldeido C - 11 Lenic
Linalool - John Manheimer
Benzaldehyde

Fragrance Ingredient

1
8
15
3
73
.1
36
.1
.2
8
6
5
7
2
4
89
1
.1
5
3
1
.1

Methyl Pamplemousse
Petitgrain Lemon Oil
Sweet Orange Spain Oil
Methyl Heptenone
Linalyl Acetate Nat.
Nonadienal
Lemon Oil Washed
Aldehyde C - 10
cis - 3- Hexyl Acetate
Hydroxycitronellal
Pamplemousse E Blanc
Verbena Oliffac
Aqualone
Citronella Oil China
Grapefruit Australina
Limonene D
Orangeflor
Petilyn
Verdox
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Stymonile ABQ7020
Floralat

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

328

Masculine Fragrances - Citrus Fresh

CITRUS FRESH
A citrus fresh fragrance is open for interpretation. What's fresh to one interesting can be green to another.
A fresh fruit can be tart, sweet, juicy strong or weak.
Lemon 3 %

Top

Petitgrain 1.5 %, Neroli 1 %,Lime 3%, Bergamot 6 %

Citrus Fresh

Mandarin 1 %, Orange 10 %, Peach 1.5 %


Middle
Jasmin 6 %
Citral 4 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3 %

Violet 3 %, Rose 8 %, Lemongrass 2 %

Floral

Geranium - Trace, Verbena 1%


Base

Moss - Trace
Amber .5 %, Civet - Trace, Sandalwood 1 %
Vanilla 2 %

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Di Ethyl hthalate 4 %
Hercolyn - D 4 %
Di Propylene Glycol 26 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Moss Ambery

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

329

Citrus Fresh # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

21
4
1
44
3
4
7
4
3
8
14
5
7
.4
12
64
5
21
37
9
3
.1
.2
8
336
1
4
17
4
45
9
14
7
10
38

Benzyl Alcohol
Iso E Super
Mousse De Metra
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Citropal
Citronellal
Di Hydro Nootkatone
Palmarosa Guatemala
Azuril
Lemon Carbonyls FN12231
Citronellol
Di Methyl Octanol
Lemongrass Oil Yunnun
Orange Aldehyde
Citral Natural Ex Litsea
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Citroasis Base 129022L
Linalool
Hexyl Cinnamic Alehyde
L - Limonene 75
Citronama
Benzaldehyde
Aldehyde C - 11 MOA
Citralva
Orange Terpenes
Allyl Caproate
Lemsyn
Ionone
Floralate
Geraniol 8020
Laurine
Orange Guinea
Bergamyl Acetate
Mandarin Yellow Brazil
Linalyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

.3
8
5
3
129
4
3
4
15
27
5
1
4
3
7
1
3
7

Aldehyde C - 10
Myrcetol
Verbenna Oliffac
Citrilys Givco 164
Orange Oil Florida Velencia C.P.
Lemonile
Jasmonyl Acetate
Bergamot ( Italia )
Peach Aldehyde 98 %
Lime, Haitian Distilled
Petitgrain, Moroc Sur Fleurs
Orange Carbonyl
Grapefruitone
Tamarine Base 41310G
Orange Oil Sweet Brazilian
Perryfix
Geranyl N - Butyrate
Orange C.P. & Sweet

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

330

Citrus Fresh # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

17
23
.1
3
45
62
.3
7
24
13
21
2
5
23
6
1
5
8
.1
12
2
9
4
48
7
13
1
332
4
7
23
18
.3
1

Benzyl Alcohol
Sandela
Mousse De Chenne Morocco
Balsam Peru Oil
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Super Cepionate
Alcohol C - 9
Gamma Terpinene 95
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Citral FF
Citronellol Coeur
Terpinol
Geraniol 98 %
Linalool
Citral Natural
Bois Iris
Citruls Givco 169
Myrcene 90
Civet Powder
Hydroxy Citronellal Dma
Citronella Oil 85/35 Chinese
Rose Artificial
Citronelva
Geraniol 5020
Lyral
Ionone Alpha
Vert De Fleur DOranger
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Vertacetal
Sandalore
Violet Base
Hedione
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Citryl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

5
3
4
13
39
17
8
.1
113
12
.1
1
3
2
.1
3
19
3
5
2
1
.2

Triplal
Dimetol
Petitgrain Mandarin Oil
Aldehyde C - 14
Linalyl Acetate
Lemon Oil of California
Dipentene 5100
Leaf Alcohol
Orange Oil Sicilian
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Rose Oxide L
Methyl Para Cresol
Melafleur
Neorosal 16G
Aldehyde C - 10
Petitgrain Oil Moroc Sur Fleurs
Orange Sweet Oil
Violet
Dimyrcetol
Florosa O
Helioforte
Citrus Base

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

331

Citrus Fresh # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

12
.1
1
6
39
13
.1
68
5
.3
4
8
10
3
24
6
5
19
27
44
5
3
4
3
2
13
327
9
3
5
13
.4
5
2

Benzyl Alcohol
Veltol
Amberlyn AB2000
Santiliff
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Glbador CG
Civet 170BSA
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Citronellal
Alcohol C - 9
Dimetol
Citronella Oil Java
Citronellol
Lotus 172
Hydroxycitronellal Pure FCC
Oncidal
Lilial
Benzyl Salicylate
Vetiver Oil Indonesia (Java)
Geraniol Prime
Citrathanil ABQ7023
Melisse Oil
Citracetal
Geranyl Acetate
Limetol
Nerol
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Zeppin
Iso Amyl Captoate 35 % FCC
Neofolione
Grapefruit Oil Florida
Aldehyde C - 10
Citryls Givco 169
Mandarin Oil Essence

Fragrance Ingredient

8
39
23
.3
1
3
5
4
7
4
.1
4
6
2
135
61
3
.7
6

Grapefruit California C.P. Pink


ORANGE OIL SUBSTITUTE
Linalool Standard Ex Orange
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Orangeflor
Bergamot Augaflor 4
Orange
Lilyall
Di Hydro Myrcenol Acetate
Orange Oil Bitter W.I.
3, 6 Nonadien - 1 - OL
DMBC Propionate
Lime Terpenes
Octacetal
Floral Orange Valencia
Linalyl Acetate
Lime Blossom
Strallyl Alcohol
Aldehyde C - 14

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

332

Masculine Fragrances - Citrus Green

CITRUS GREEN
A citrus green fragrance has elements of all of the above. The greenness can be derived from Galbanum
Oils, Olibanum that can possess a natural green note to many floral materials including powerful top note green
note aromas.
Top

Tangerine 1 %
Lime 5 %, Orange 13 %, Bergamot 9 % - Fruity

Citrus Floral

Pineapple 1.5 %, Mandarin 2%, Green Notes - Trace


Middle
Muguet 6 %
Amyl Salicylate 2 %
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 4 % Lavender # 5, Violet 4 %, Rose 5 % - Sweet

Floral

Jasmin 2 %, Geranium .5 %
Base

Musk 2 %
DLimonene Sub 30 %

Patchouli 1 %, Amber - Trace, Vanilla .5 %


Sandalwood .5 %

Cutters
Benzyl Alcohol 2 %
Benzyl Salicylate 3 %
Di Ethyl Phthalate 5 %
Hercolyn - D 3 %

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Dry

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

333

Citrus Green # 1a
Fragrance Ingredient

1
23
8
35
8
17
4
28
3
19
24
21
5
3
49
33
.1
15
6
3
154
1
41
3
.1
53
1
9
10
1
43
21
43
9
.1
1

Ambrox DL Coeur
Musk TM II
Sandalwood Substitute
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Patchouli Oil Light
Benzyl Alcohol
Vanillin
Benzyl Salicylate
Benzophenone
Salicilato Amil
Ionone Alpha White Coeur
Benzyl Acetate 99 %
Muskylein
Ethyl Vanillin
Hydroxycitronellal Extender
Jasphene
Rosone
Mandarinal
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Cedrenyl Acetate
DLimonene Substitute
Irisone Pure
Geraniol
Sandalore
Heliomet
Di Propileno Glico
Mallow
Citronellol
Methyl Lavender Ketone
Lorysia
Hercolin - D
Citralva
Linalool 97 %
Tangerine Oil C.P. Florida
Aldehyde C - 10
Santalyl Acetate

Fragrance Ingredient

3
.1
8
57
1
9
23
14
6
.2
43
.1
101
1
.1
1
9
3
25
.1
.1
1

Vanillyl Alcohol
Alcohol C - 09
Tangerinol
Linalyl Acetate
Cis Jasmone
Fresh Pineapple
Bergamot Oil Substitute
Lavender Oil French 40/42
Lyral
Geranium Rose Oil
Dihydromyrcenol
Folione
Orange Oil Substitute
Kir Base # 9741
Rose Oxide D
Jasmil 5329
Lime Oil West - Indian
Acetate De Styralyle
Orange Peel Oil Sweet Florida
Alcohol C - 11
Lemongrass Jave Essence
Jasmone

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

334

Citrus Green # 1b
Fragrance Ingredient

9
3
6
35
3
4
23
.1
1
5
22
3
24
38
.1
3
55
6
33
7
4
23
1
9
33
.1
3
85
6
1
31
207
3
4
36

Patchouly Oil
Amber Substitute
Sandalwood Givco 203
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Benzophenone
Vanisal
Salicylate DAmyle
Benzoin Essence - US
Musk Emeressence
Benteine
Benzyl Alcohol
Florhydral
Di Hydro Iso Jasmonate
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Alpha Damascone
Vanillinethyl
Hydroxycitronellol
Jasmin Province Base
Iso Raldeine 70
Citronellol
Sandalwood Oliffac
Citral
Givescone
Myrcene
Geraniol Synthetic 85 FCC
Mallow
Orange Amore Bresil
Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Cis Jasmone
Lavender 40/42
Hercolyn - D
Tangerinol
Levenalis
Di Hydro Myrcenol

Fragrance Ingredient

.1
6
3
1
.3
41
7
3
.1
107
.1
1
.1
1
14
57
3
8
.1
1
17
1
2
.1

Rose Oxide L
Petitgrain Citronee Oil
Lysral
Citronellyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Linalool Synthetic
Tangerine Oil - South American
Scennal
Rose Acetate
Orange Oil Substitute
Aldehyde 13 - 13
Bois Ambrene Forte
Perryfix
Bitter Orange Basil Oil
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Linalyl Acetate ( x - Mentha Citrata )
OJ Carbinyl STV
Lime Oil - Washed
Aldeido C - 10
Fleurs d oranger abs. artess
Mandarinal
Undecatriene
Citronella 82/32
Ribes Nigrum

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

335

Citrus Green # 1c
Fragrance Ingredient

4
21
8
4
33
7
19
53
1
14
23
25
6
261
9
11
4
3
25
41
17
1
15
11
79
17
21
3
6
.1
37
.3
4
35
63

Vanillin
Alcool Benzilico
Patchouli Dark OE
Givescone
Benzyl Salicylate - IFF
Sandalwood Oil Extender
Galaxolide
Di Ethyl Phthalate (DEP)
Amboryl Acetate
Gamma Terpenes
Amyl Salicylate
Cepionate
y - Irone
DLimonene Substitute
Ionone Alpha 60
Citronellal Oil Java
Florhydral
Ethyl Vanisal
Citral Extra
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
Para Cymene
Musk Emeressence
Citronelol
Methyl Ionone Gamma Coeur
Hercolyn - D
D. Limonene
Geraniol
Methyl Nonyl Ketone
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Orange Aldehyde
Orange Oil Guinea
Aldehyde C - 11 Lenic
Iso Nonyl Acetate
Ethyl Linalool
Orange Oil Substitute

Fragrance Ingredient

6
1
.1
4
6
3
1
4
3
9
1
4
7
.2
1
1
11
1
2
1
.1
2
51

Valencene
Citronellyl Acetate
Aldehyde C - 10
Dimetol
Orange Power Givco 229
Styrallyl Acetate
Aldehyde Mandarin 10 % Citr
Lavender Oliffac
Veteacetal
Mandarine
Glycolierral
Petilime FM 1213
Allyl Amyl Glycolate
Orange Essence Oil
Geranodyle
Cis Jasmone
Tangerine, Florida
Nerol
Vernol
Artemisa
Rose Oxide R
Formate De Geranyle
Linalyl Acetate

1,000

Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

336

Bibliography

Ackerman, Diane. A Natural History of the Senses, 1990.


Aftel, Mandy. Essences & Alchemy - A Book of Perfume, 2001.
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume & Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. 1960.
Arctander, Steffen. Perfume & Flavor Chemicals, Volumes # 1 & 2.
Aurora Photos - Perfume Bottles - 20 - 36 Danforth Street, Suite # 216, Portland, Maine 04101.
Bailey, L.J. Hortus, A Dictionary Of Horticulture of North America. 1935.
Bedoukian, Paul Dr. Perfumery & Flavoring Synthetics.
Bedoukian, Paul Dr. Perfumery & Flavoring Materials, Articles, 1945 - 1992.
Bedoukian Research. Distinctive Perfume & Flavor Ingredients.
Black, Penny. The Book Of Potpourri, Fragrant Flower Mixes For The Home.
Brechbill, Glen O., A Reference Book on Fragrance Ingredients, 2005.
Burfield, Tony. The Adulteration of Essential Oils, Globalnet.co.uk, London, 2003.
Burr, Chandler. The Emperor of Scent, A Story of Perfume, & Obsession. 2002.
Bush Boake & Allen, Inc. Aroma & Terpene Products.
Calkin, Robert R. Perfumery Practice & Principles.
Chanel Parfums, The Story of Coco Chanel, 1999.
Clifford, Frank S. Romance Of Perfume Lands. 1881.
Cola, Felix. Book of Perfumery. 1947
Creations Aromatiques Inc., Bases, Essential Oils, Fine Fragrances & Aromatic Materials.
Dana, Star W. How To Know The Wild Flowers. 1995.
Dictionary, The American Heritage Dictionary Of The English Language, 1971.
Dictionary, Webster's Third New International Dictionary, Unabridged.
Donato, Giuseppe & Siefried Monique. The Fragrant Past: Perfumes of Cleopatra and Julius Ceasar. 1995.
Dorland, Gabrielle J. Scents Appeal.
Dorland, Rogers. The Fragrance & Flavor Industry. 1971.
Dragoco. World Class Flavor Ingredients.
Duff, Gail. Natural Fragrances, Outdoor Scents For Indoor Use.
Edwards, Michael. Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, 1998.
Fabulous Fragrances II, A Guide to Prestige and Perfume For Women & Men, 2001.
Firmenich, Inc. Chemicals & Specialties.
Fragrance Foundation. Fragrance & Olfactory Dictionary & Directory. 1981.
Fragrance Foundation. The History, The Mystery, The Enjoyment of Fragrance.
Fragrance Profiles. Allured Publishers.
French Society Of Perfumers. Fragrance Classification Des Perfumes.
Fragrance Books Inc @www.perfumerbook.com

337

Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions

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