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Trout Creek C limbing

Madras locals will tell you Trout Creek climbing area is inaccurately named since the actual Trout Creek is
nowhere in sight of the climbing. In fact, there is no running water near the cliff at all. The local name, Dry
Island, is much more fitting. The climbing area is named Trout Creek for the campground where climbers
must park to approach the crag. Parking at spots other than the campground forces hikers over private land
and could lead to access problems for us as a user group. The mesa above the cliff is used as a hunting
preserve and owned by the original homesteaders of Gateway, the Vibbert family. They are nice people but
understandably do not want climbers walking or driving over their property.
To climb at Trout Creek, park at the Trout Creek Day Use Area in the upstream corner of the campground
(and follow the directions posted at the end of this intro) to approach the climbing. Now if we want to get
technical, Trout Creek campground doesnt sit next to Trout Creek either, instead the creek meets the Lower
Deschutes downstream from the campground where it flows through private land. Private land is important
to respect in this area, even if you are as far from the climbing at Trout Creek as Trout Creek itself. Much of
the private land is not clearly posted so if in doubt, dont venture off the beaten path and please keep a
friendly low profile. The hike from the campground to the cliff takes about 45 minutes at a normal pace.
Dont forget to bring plenty of water, its a dry island up there.

The columns will be around a long time after we are all gone and so will any changes made to the rock.
Whether drilling, hammering, chipping or chopping, alterations permanently transform the true identity of
natural lines into something else. Defacing the rock to adjust a routes difficulty (or its severity) not only
changes the integrity of the climb, it steals the futures potential. With difficulty standards increasing every
year, and more climbers heading to the cliff, Trout Creeks hardest climbs and boldest possibilities are ever
closer to getting ticked. If you do something new or have information to help shed more accurate light on any
part of the crags history, let us all know by sharing it in the guidebook located inside the crag bucket. All
updates and corrections are written into the crag copy of the guide. More importantly the crag bucket contains
a simple first aid kit and it is also the best spot to leave small lost and found items or steel carabiners you would
like to donate (see page #11). So far, it seems to be working well but dont let fixed gear (or any info in a book)
trump your common sense when it comes to staying safe. For many reasons, todays good beta may change
tomorrow. Legally, some things cannot go without saying, so CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK.
I want to extend a huge thank you to the climbers who have contributed photos or unwittingly posed for them to
make this guide more visual. Also, thanks to all the people who have donated steel carabiners, trail work tools
and, most importantly, their time into making the place safer and more user-friendly.
Cheers,
Jeff Wenger, 7/2010

TROUT C REEK
A BOUT

THE

AREA

THE MAIN WALL


T HE NOR THERN END
THE SW CORNER
C ASTLE W ALL

P GS 12-31
P GS 32-41
P GS 42-43
P GS 43-46

THE COOL W ALL


R OUTE LISTS

P GS 3-11

P GS 46-50

( A N D OT H ER I N FO)

P G S 51-59

Photos credits from left to right: Last Row: Michael Dake, Dan Higgins; 2nd Last Row:, Micha Tannenbaum, Matthew Battarbee;
Next Row Up: Jesse Huey; Additional shots on this page, Jeff Wenger Collection; Page #8: Aspect/Season Photo, Jesse Brown;
Cover: Cody Scarpella climbing Gold Rush during a February sunset , Jeff Wenger; All Other Uncredited photos: Jeff Wenger Collection

A Brief H istory
The stretch of water from Warm Springs to Trout Creek is a blue ribbon section of the
Deschutes. World Class fishing along with scenic beer-in-hand style rafting attracts a steady
stream of visitors during the warmer months each year. Over the years, many jaws have
dropped open and many eyes have bulged at the site of proud, clean, golden columns in view
for a good portion of the float. From the trout opener in April through the falls famous
steelhead run, the cliff line west of Trout Creek is probably discovered a hundred times a week.
Not surprisingly, loads of climbers have taken note of this awesome cliff. In particular it was
Madras local, Bill Ramsey who was most likely the first person to explore the vertical climbing
at Trout Creek. Ramsey had already solo top-roped many of the crags plums prior to
convincing partners like Alan Watts to venture away from Smiths tuft for a look. With the
Smith-birthed sport climbing revolution in full-swing (and rattlesnakes in season) one look was
enough for Watts. Watts was already busy in Terrebonne spearheading the development that
soon put Smith Rock on the short list of top international crags. Still, word of a Crack World
north of Madras soon surfaced and other Smith Rock guns like John Rich, Brooke Sandahl,
Stevie Byrne, Chris Grover, and a few of their compadres, such as crack star Hidetaka Suzuki,
visited the cliff a handful of times in the mid-eighties. These guys probably ticked more of
Trouts classics than they can now recall and many other hardmen and women surely checked
the area out prior to the more recent development.
Its healthy to view the history of any and all naturally protected climbing with a bit of a
mystery. Who knows, a number of unidentified climbers armed with passive gear, or none at all,
may have paid this area quiet visits long before even Ramseys exploits. Jack Tackle and friends
in the 70s perhaps? Hopefully more information will soon come out of the woodwork. If we go
way back, the archaeological record has confirmed rumors that Deschutes Sahaptin speakers
(who sent hard) once frequented the area we know as Trout Creek today.
After getting the go-ahead from a few modern day pioneers, I replaced the old ! inch bolts and
faded webbing anchors they had left behind in the eighties and began picking away at the
remaining lines on the main wall with Colleen Brennan, John Rich, Jamie Wenger, Marty
Hickey, Michael Pruden, Mike Tsoi, Jack Herrick and Darryl Nakahira. Others were exploring
the cliff too, with the most notable development led by Gavin Ferguson, Brett Yost, Dave
McCrae, David Potter, Karl Sutton and later Pat McCarthy. Within a couple years, the area
stirred up some local attention. Most people shared the psych of what Trout Creek offers while
some hated the sustained, physical nature of the climbing. Regardless word kept spreading.

Paranoid the artes would get bolted or someone would include Trout Creek in a publication
that would bring the masses, in 2002 I threw together an underground guide with a general
message of keeping the crag on the down-low. It seemed to many of us, that if the area stayed
quiet it would be just plain better, on several levels. Of course, this reasoning was largely
selfish; we wanted the climbing and the view and the experience all to ourselves. I actually used
the guide as a way to spread the words, Dont spread the word and pointedly did not include
driving directions, except to express the importance of NOT trespassing over private land.
This pretense built into a guidebook was arguably dumb and that argument was made. Some
people flat out disagreed with the mindset of keeping things quiet. To them, our semi-covert
message of Come on out, tell your friends about Trout Creek, but dont tell the world! was
problematic and sent the wrong message. A new message was soon delivered. In early 2007,
Utah Dave McRrae
wrote a piece for a local
magazine titled, The
Best Hand Crack Ever:
Blowing the Lid off Trout
Creek, with a version of
the same article
running in Climbing
Magazine less than a
year later. The articles
brought the crag into
another realm of
exposure and use.
Huge crowds followed.
Okay maybe not.
Things have actually
remained fairly quiet
except for spring/fall
weekends and the
occasional party.
Jamie Wenger on Gold Rush

2007 ushered in another wave of development at Trout Creek as climbers finally realized that
many of the routes previously overlooked as too hard were actually quite possible. The uberpsyched Matt Dread Coty, Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, Chris Garner, Micha Tannenbaum,
Cody Scarpella, myself and others started trying and sometimes succeeding on the most obvious of
these lines. In April of 2008, Will Stanhope visited Trout Creek for a few hours and casually added
two of the crags best finger cracks, Winter Sustenance (5.12) and Full Clip (5.12+), to the established
routes at the Main Walland both were sent on-sight! We immediately realized two things: 1.
Will could climb really hard and 2. The rest of us needed to step-up to the remaining lines wed
been staring at for so long. While our realizations did not yield a multitude of hard on-sight FAs,
we regularly confirmed that the small gear placements would hold really big falls on the areas
basalt. Occasionally somebody held on to the top and over time many more excellent lines were
added to the Main Wall, mostly in the 5.11 to 5.12 range. Pat McCarthy and Marsha Hamilton
were particularly active at this time, especially at The Cool Wall where they established several
quality routes between 5.10 and 5.11+. All said, thirty new routes were put up in 2007-08.
Throughout the activity of 2008, and stretching well into 2009, a standout route now called The
May Fly trumped most of the FA action at Trout Creek. This exciting climb was named for several
reasons, not least of which being the huge air logged in May of 09 as a few climbers gunned for
the FA. In late summer, Cody Scarpella succeeded on it and at about the same time, several of us
started trying the finger cracks between Full Clip and Gold Rush. Tommy Caldwell came close to
sending one of these new lines just left of Gold Rush (listed as #9b potential and pictured on page
#8) over three days of great conditions that October. His trip also included an inspired first
onsight of The May Fly, confirming a grade range of 5.12+ to 5.13-. By February of 2010, Scarpella
added Reservation Blues (another 5.12+) to the long list of Main Wall classics. At this rate, the near
future will yield several more hard lines. Check the crag guide for updates.

The May Fly in perfect February conditions

Trout C reek Today (7 /10 )


More climbers, more established routes, more lines being contemplated. Despite increased
attention, Trout has retained a small community feel. Its up to all of us, as users, to protect the
area. What that means in terms of development presents conundrums we each have to answer
for ourselves. Generally, less is more in traditional climbing and so far, bolts have been placed
for anchors only. All of the current routes are entirely protectable with natural pro. With few
exceptions, the integrity of the rock allows climbers to attempt lines ground-up, in the best
possible style. Please be aware of what the future could bring in terms of bold classics before
changing the approach or end result to Trout Creeks style of development.
Trout Creeks early growth spurt may have made for a somewhat awkward adolescence but the
general vibes at the crag have always been of sharing beta, protection, ropes, food, drink and
fun. They remain that way today. More importantly, access now seems secure. By respecting
the private property on top (as in, NOT USING IT to get to the cliff), weve built trust with the
before-weary owners. As a result they feel much better about us being in the area and that
REALLY matters in this case. Most of us believe that Trouts gradual, guarded development
helped make this possible. Plus, the lack of information left room for discovery and provided
the intended We found it! scavenger hunt fun for some. It didnt jive with others, especially
after they had just purchased a guidebook. This developed into an unwanted paradox as the
guides semi-secret structure sent the wrong message over time. With that said, driving
directions are now included. Please park at the Trout Creek campground to access the climbing.
Again, parking or approaching from other directions could lead to access issues.

Driving D irections

(See Page #10 for hiking approach directions)


The Trout Creek campground sits North of Madras, Oregon on the beautiful Deschutes River.
Driving to the crag is like stepping back in time. The sleepy hallow of Gateway is architecturally
grounded in rural 1960, complete with the classic Pumphouse Park. The old river road and older
homesteads bump imaginations back to
a place where settlers built lives and
worked the hard Oregon Outback.
From the HWY 26: Immediately on top
of the hill as you rise out of Warm
Springs turn NE (left) onto Gumwood
Lane. Take your first right on Deschutes
Dr. and follow it to Juniper Lane. Go
right and continue to the end of the
mesa where you will drop down into
Gateway. Take your first left on
Clemens Dr. This road turns to gravel
and drops down through a single lane
tunnel before following Trout Creek
toward the Deschutes. Its four miles to
the campground.
From Madras: Head north on HWY 97.
Turn left onto Cora Lane as you descend
the first hill out of town, this merges
with NE Clark. Recalibrate here if
coming from the north. Stay straight on
NE Clark (sign to Gateway) at the NE
Old intersection. Cross the tracks in
Gateway and turn right on Clemens Dr;
follow this road four bumpy miles to the
campground.
Park at the Day Use Area located on the upstream side of the Trout Creek Campground.

Dogs
If youre thinking about bringing canine pals, make sure
they climb hard. Pinballing down into the talus is a real
and dangerous concern for dogs and weve seen it happen
more than once. Despite our best intentions as owners,
some dogs hate the experience of Trout Creeks bouldery
base. This is not the time to abandon pets with a, Theyll
be fine attitude. Not every climber is a dog person and
they shouldnt have to deal with our pets because we, as
owners, are not doing so ourselves. If your dog is having
trouble, please dont leave it alone. Unfortunately,
rattlesnakes pose another huge danger to dogs in the
summer months. Rattler vaccinations are available for
dogs and it is advised to carry Benadryl as a precaution
for people or pets. Two dogs were bitten in 2009 alone!

The Grading Gam e


From fingers to chimneys, straight-in jamming to all out stem-fests, theres something to suit
every crack fans strength or weakness at Trout Creek. As with any crack climbing area, ratings
here can be incredibly subjective. If you have really small hands you may find Gold Rush
punishing and cruise the
harder JR Token. With that
in mind, this guide uses the
+- system of less precise
grade measurements. For
those unfamiliar with this
system, 5.10- is in the range
of 5.10a or b; 5.10 is 5.10b or
c; 5.10+ is about 5.10c or d.
To the best of my ability,
grades have remained in the
hands of first ascentionists.
In a few cases, people have
adjusted their original
ratings since after traffic,
difficulties sometimes ease
and other times climbs feel harder when revisited. The general goal has been consistency and
there are no dangerously sandbagged routes. Its worth noting that, in a few cases, it is possible
to avoid the difficulties of one climb by bailing to another route and creating something easier.
Also, many of the stem boxes can be climbed as single crack classics by eliminating would-be
options to one side or another. Unless otherwise mentioned, routes in this guidebook are graded
with the assumption that climbers will attempt the lines in an uncontrived fashion.

Projects
See a line that inspires you? Go for it! All climbs
are open and fair game whether they have been
done, attempted, abandoned or ignored.
Remember, please think before drilling and if you
do something new let us all know by writing it in
the crag copy of the guide at the staging area.
Photo above: Pat McCarthy on the FA of
Out Ridin Fences, Photo: Dan Higgins.
Photo right: Tommy Caldwell attempting one of
the many immaculate unclimbed routes on Trout
Creeks Main Wall.

Camping
The Trout Creek Campground has a fine selection of riverside camping. Nearly all sites are
equipped with picnic tables and fire pits with easy access to well-maintained outhouses. Costs
range from $8-35 a night depending on the season and whether or not you are in a single or
group site. See details below. Plans are in the works for facility upgrades but at the time of
writing, there is no potable water at the campground. The area sees considerable traffic during
fishing season. Then, from mid-Nov. to April, weve got it all to ourselves.

Aspect/S eason
The Main Wall faces west and
wraps to the northeast. The west
facing rock comes into the sun
between 12:30 and 2:00
depending on the season and
day light savings. The Cool
Wall faces north and only gets
sun in the summertime. The
northerly aspects have lichen
growth while the Main Wall is
naturally clean.
Temperatures on average are quite similar to
Smith Rock, which means youll typically be
seeking the shade (or more likely the river) by
early afternoon in the summer and shivering
until after 1:00pm in the winter. Spring and fall
offer consistently good temps but warm winter
days create the best conditions. On the other
hand, cold winter days can make you wonder
why youre up there. In the rare event of snow,
getting around at the base is VERY sketchy.
The nature of the base definitely adds another
dimension to Trout Creeks already isolated
position and is, by a landslide, the most
dangerous aspect of visiting Trout Creek.

Non-Clim bing Da ngers


Ticks can be an issue in spring to early summer,
especially close to the river. Rattlesnakes are
commonly spotted from May-Sept. in the
campground, on the approach and on top of the
cliff. Bill Ramsey recently recalled that back in
the 80s there was the equivalent of a
rattlesnake den on top of the cliff. Rattlers are a
serious danger, especially to dogs (See Page #7).
In 2006, eight adult cougars were killed in the
Trout Creek area. While some of us find this
fact more disturbing than the few annually
reported cat attacks nationwide, a run-in with
one of these predators could be a deadly affair.
If you see a cougar give it lots of space and
assume it has been and will be watching you for
some time. At the time of writing, the last
sighting was in the campground in Oct. 09. An
important note: cougar attacks on groups of two
or more are almost non-existent. Rattlesnakes
pose way more of a real danger then cougars
but neither should be a major concern if people
stay alert and on the trails.

The Approach
Park in the Day Use Area, located at the southwest
(upstream) end of the campground and walk
upstream to access the river road past a cattle guard.
A direct approach to the Northern End is visible on
the left (see page #32) allowing the Main Walls
talus field to be avoided.
The Normal Main Wall Approach: Walk 20-25 minutes upstream and cross a second cattle
guard. Continue two hundred yards along the road to the first weakness in the hillside. Leave
the road here and follow a trail up the short rise to the left. The bulk of the climbing at Trout
Creek is now clearly in view.

Approach the Main Wall from the hillside to the SW (right) by tending west to avoid talus,
following a well worn trail through two tiers of meadows and then up the steep(er than it looks)
hillside. Hug the base of the wall (and check out the SW Corners wild formations) as you step
left to gain the talus field of the Main Wall. It takes 20-25 minutes to walk the trail leaving the
river road to the climbs of the Main Wall at a normal pace.

If heading to the Cool Wall add 15-20 minutes. For an alternative approach to The Cool Wall see
page #46; again, see page #30 for the direct approach to The Northern End. The Main Wall
approach is 45-50 minutes from the day use parking area at a normal pace.

If you hug the trail next to the cliff the first route youll come to is the dirty little ass-kicker,
Napoleon, on the satellite columns toward the right side of the cliff. For Trout Creek, this is
a sideshow route and youll likely be lured toward the longer, cleaner lines to the left.
Shasta (70)
Electric Chair (52)

Gold Rush (9)


Fingerlings (39)

Time Bomb (3)

U2 (28)

Napoleon (1)

Logis tics
If you choose to drop in from above, it will be a pain in the ass. Youll need to set up a natural
anchor, rap with two ropes unless youre hauling around a 70 meter rope, set directionals, deal
with rope drag and avoid the snakes (see page #9). Due to access issues, there have been
considerable efforts taken to avoid placing bolts on top. Trout Creek is a lead climbing area by
design. Ramseys old TR bolts from the 80s are still there but should be avoided. All other
existing anchors at the crag were placed in 2001 or later and get you back to the ground with a
single 60-meter rope. However, the lines that end near the rim come in right at 100 feet so watch
the ends of the rope! The JR Extension anchor (#14b) is particularly precarious when lowering
with a 60m, scramble up the starting blocks of #14 as a precaution, better yet, use a 70m rope.

10

For safety and convenience, nearly all anchors are equipped with lowering carabiners on chains.
This makes for a faster way down and people never have to untie to thread the rope. The most
popular routes have steel carabiners, the others are aluminum. For those that feel uneasy about
lowering off gear other than their own, use the anchors as you normally would but please leave
the carabiners in place for the rest of us. Donations are appreciated and can be left in the crag
bucket (more on donations on the next page).

Being T here
With a position high above the Deschutes River, the crag provides sweeping views of the
Central Oregon landscape and a gorge framed viewing of Mt Jefferson. The natural lines, like
the scenery, are exceptional and offer a particularly high concentration of classics at 5.10 and
harder. For the most part, the columns come together to form spectacularly sustained inside
corners and stem boxes. Occasionally the angles produce splitter-like results, so bring a desert
rack or be prepared to run it out. Trout Creeks texture tends to be abrasive, which means its
great for your feet but rough on your skin. Most climbers choose to tape.
Some of you may notice a couple changes to the guide as additional information about the crags
history has come to light. Difficulty ratings have also been adjusted here and there (see The
Grading Game on page #7). The biggest and most relevant differences have to do with the
number of established routes, which is over five times that of the original guide.

11

The Main Wa ll
Trouts Main Wall is a small area in beautifully big setting.
As youll soon discover, the majority of the routes here are classic.
Gold Rush and J.R. Token will be the obvious hand cracks that come in
view as you start boulder hopping at the west end of the Main Wall.
Once at the cliff, most climbers drop their packs at the staging area of fallen
columns roughly in line with the climb Gold Rush (#9). Poke around the
staging area and you will locate a community bucket with a crag copy of
this guide, a pen, a first aid kit, and few other items. The crag copy of the
guide is useful to check for route updates and is the best way to add your
own additions. If you are interested in donating steel carabiners, tape,
or other climbing essentials, the crag bucket is a good spot to do so.
Also $ donations to Trout Creek are tax deductible (see page #58).
All routes on the Main Wall are described from right to left
starting at Napoleon on page #14. Climbing on this page
Jesse Brown on the Gold Rush extension, Dame el Oro.

JR Token (14)
Gold Rush (9)

Fingerlings (39)

12

1. Napolean 5.10+
A short, pumpy climb thats worth checking out. Scramble down toward
#2 to get off or continue (5.6) to the top.
Gear to 3 (No Anchor)
1a. The Approach 5.9
Climb the short shaded hand crack and
beware of loose rock. Carefully step left
ASAP to avoid wider climbing above.
Pro to 3 (No Anchor)
2. Out Ridin Fences 5.11+
The corner systems this route ties together
create an excellent route. Scramble up to
the belay from right to left. Climb the
obvious aesthetic line that tends right.
Pro to 2
3. Time Bomb 5.11 (or 5.9+)
This route is located in an unnerving
position that wont always be around. The
5.11 start climbs fingers up to a stance left
of the pillar. The moderate (5.9+)
scrambles in past #4. Either way youll
soon find yourself in a precarious spot.
Finish up the left crack to the top.
Pro to 4 mostly small (No Anchor)

PHOTO: DAN HIGGINS

13

The FA of Out Ridin Fences

4. Double Trouble 5.11 (5.11- to the #5 anchor)


Excellent double cracks lead to a bulging off-width or bypass the OW and finish on Two Step.
Pro to 5 (No Anchor) Pro to 1 if stopping at Two Step anchor
5. Two Step Right 5.9+
Step 1: Gain the pillar on the right side.
Straight-in, physical climbing.
Step 2: Attack the cool crack above, hand
traverse and try to figure out the finish.
Pro to 4

Gavin Ferguson approaching the Two Step zigzag

6. Two Step Left 5.10Step 1: Gain the pillar on the left side of this
awkward partner. An off-set lesson.
Step 2: Same as #3
Pro to 3

6a. The Way That It Was 5.10+R


Climb #5 or #6, move left at the zigzag and pull steep pockets above minimal gear.
Pro to 4
7. Midas Touch 5.11+
Although not as serious as it appears from the ground, this classic route is rarely climbed.
Moderate thin hands leads to a highly technical mid-section and an amazing #8 finish.
Pro to 2
8. Alchemy 5.12This magical line is the obvious first choice for emerging 5.12 leader. Powerful laybacking,
aesthetic locks, technical stemming, this route has it all. Do not underestimate the pumpy 5.10
finish above the horizontal. Most of the route is easily top roped from the Gold Rush anchors.
Pro to 1 (Larger if protection is placed in the pod)
8a. Pan Handlin 5.10
This link-up route might be the best and toughest 5.10 at the cliff. Climb Gold Rush and finger
traverse right at Alchemys obvious horizontal crack and then continue on up the #8 finish.
Pro to 3 (bring small gear for the upper part)

14

PHOTO: C ODY SCARPELLA

Wally Fox in the business of Alchemy

15

9. Gold Rush 5.10The Main Walls most popular classic ! for good reason.
Wide hands to perfect hands to a classic finish. Stop at the
first set of anchors or continue on up the face for #9a.
Pro to 3
9a. Dame El Oro (Gold Rush Extension) 5.11
What is even better than Gold Rush? Continuing above
Gold Rush! Step up and right from the #9 anchors on
exposed edges and pockets and then follow the vertical
seam to the rim. See photo on page #13.
Pro for #9 + gear to "
9b. Potential
Just left of Gold Rush is a very difficult line just awaitin
In 10/09 Caldwell came close. Whos up?
10. Hip to Toe 5.11+
Three lines left of Gold Rush lies a shallow, stem box that
delivers a waist-down pump worthy of its namesake. Long
overlooked (protection seemed to seam-out) until a sudden
flurry of ground-up attempts exposed awesome, reasonably
protected climbing the whole way. Classic.
Pro to "
11. Unknown U1 (AKA The Ruiner) 5.10
With a loose looking section, this climb was ignored for years. Despite appearances, its a
tremendous route and the loose looking flake is surprisingly solid. Stiff for the grade.
Pro to 3
12. Monster 5.12- (or Landing a Monster 5.10)
Start off the lower block leading to JR Token. Expect HARD locks down low. Consensus has
brought this one in well beyond its original grade of 5.11. For the excellent 5.10 version,
Landing a Monster (#12a) start on #11 and connect left via the obvious #12a horizontal break.
Pro to 4
13. The River Wide 5.9
A journey both wide and deep. Youll go through all the sizes to borrow up toward the surface.
Start off the higher block leading to JR Token and follow the consistently widening crack. Same
anchor as #12.
Pro to 6+(Much larger pro needed if staying in left crack)
14. JR Token 5.10
A token JR climb and an all time classic! The crux section spits-off many a capable 5.10 climber.
Scramble-up the two blocks to begin. Difficulties slowly build as the crack narrows. Many
people find this route more classic and less grueling than Gold Rush.
Pro to 2
14a. Immortal Illusions 5.12 R
A bold line that was done ground-up. Climb JR Token, pull the roof and boulder to the top. Gear
is nonexistent for all but the easy top section.
Pro: A strong head (to 2 for the gear anchor)
14b. JR Token Extension 5.10
Balance left and power through a short section of quality finger locks to a face climbing and
corner crack finish. A great way to drop a rope over #15 or #16.
Pro for JR + gear to "

16

Jesse and Tami Brown enjoying a quiet afternoon at The Main Wall

17

P HOTO: JESSE H UEY

Cold weather cranking on the classic Winter Sustenance

18

15. Potential
This line is considerably easier than #17 or #18 but, at the time of writing, it has not seen an FFA.
16. Reservation Blues 5.12+
More powerful and much more
sustained than the popular #20.
Step right off the block unto very
thin locks and keep something
in reserve for the endurance
crux at # height. Except for the
smaller start and moderate runout finish, this route protects
well with blue TCU sized gear.
Pro to !
17-18. Potential
Directly behind and left from the
block lie two stunning lines that
will someday get done.
19. Full Clip 5.12+
Off-set tips to rattley fingers for
what will feel like forever. This
route is a test piece for proud FA
style. Sent ground up, on sight.
Bring a full clip of thin crack
arsenal. Killer.
Pro to 1
20. Winter Sustenance 5.12
The most moderate of the test
pieces to the right and still one
of the toughest (and best) pure
finger cracks at the crag. This
climb sees plenty of TR action
from the #21 anchor.
Pro to "
21. The Space Between 5.10+
None of the individual jams will
stop you but the space between
P HOTO: W ALLY F OX
Cody Scarpella on the FA of Reservation Blues
them just might. Enjoy a beautiful
view of columnar architecture as you race the stemming pump. If you find this one too easy,
step left to #22. Head either right or left at the anchor to access top ropes for #19/20, or #22.
Pro to 1
22. Space Mission 5.11
Another crag classic. This advanced version of #21 is characterized by a tough stemming section
down low before gaining better jams and airy positions high on the route. If youre reasonably
good at stemming, this might be the Trout Creeks most straightforward 5.11. And if youre still
not pumped, step left to #23!
Pro to 1
23. Purple Pinky Eater 5.12An exceptional line and a stout lead. Moderate double hands converge into a tiny crack. From
there, high-tech, cryptic stem work eventually reopens to jams and a great finish. So named for
the seam's appetite for purple TCU's and tiny pinky-first "locks". Dont make this your first
jaunt into 5.12- or youll be eaten.
Pro to 2

19

TO:

24. Mr. Squiggles 5.10


Worthy of its reputation as one of Trout Creeks best 5.10s. Step right off the block into the ringlock to thin hand crux. A fall at the bottom could be bad news without an attentive belay. The
shorter length of #24 and #25 make these routes less intimidating to many climbers.
Pro to 3
25. Suzuki 5.10+
Classic double cracks. This FA was documented on the Japanese catalog cover of Gear Point in
the mid-80s. Like its squiggly partner to the right, this is a very popular route.
Pro to 2

COLLEEN BRENNAN

The FA of The Space Between

26. Fissuremen 5.10Get your grovel on. A bit on the dirty side but getting cleaner with every ascent. It is possible to
top rope part of #27 from the anchors!expect about 5.12- if you stop at the crossing.
Pro to 4
27. The May Fly 5.12+
One of Trouts most sought after hard routes. Climb fingers with ascending difficulty to a burly
crossing. Make the move left and lieback the thin and committing crux section. Hit the jug or
you will fly. Continue on technical ground to an anchor above the grey overhang. Awesome!
Pro to "

Andy Wyatt setting up for the crux section of The May Fly

28. (Unknown) U2 5.10+


Sustained double cracks lead to a roof then left to the #29 anchors. Top belay or take special
precautions to avoid rope drag when lowering by using long slings at the roof. Excellent.
Pro to 2
29. (Unknown) U3 5.9+
A wide variation of sizes, including restful chimneying is encountered in another good box.
Many people choose this route (or #4) as their first Main Wall lead.
Pro to 4

20

21

32. Muffin Top 5.10


An awesome line and Trouts purest off-width. Most climbers find this route very hard.
Comparatively the grade of 5.10 might be a bit cruel. Come hungry or youll get munched.
Pro to 6
33. The Long March 5.10+
A varied passage through Trout Creek terrain. Technical double cracks ease to hands before
hitting a few bigger sizes. A Trout must-do and a good first 5.10+ lead at the Main Wall.
Pro to 4
34. Redd Alert 5.11+
The redds of the Lower Deschutes produce strong, scrappy fish. Heres a classic 100 ft fight
with cruxing locks (practically campusing) down low. Reach the pillar and take a break before
another thin section. Stay alert up high on the exposed face.
Pro to 2

35. Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) 5.12Technical stemming, powerful locks, great positions up high: another classic. Charmed with
straightforward protection and good shakes. Stay left and eventually merge with Red Alerts
face climbing finish. Named in honor of the early Sahaptin speaking Trout Creek locals.
Pro to 1

22

36. (Unknown) U4 5.11Two separate, high quality lines can be led to the anchors but the uncontrived classic uses them
both. Another one of Trout Creeks best routes. Hyper-flexible, tall climbers find it a bit on the
soft side. For the flexibly and/or vertically challenged, it feels unrelentingly stiff at 5.11-.
Pro to 1
37. Chinese Chicken 5.10Prepared many imaginable ways and none of them fat free. Creative 5.10 climbing and a good
intro to the areas off-widths. OW technique can be mixed with stemming and finger sizes.
Pro to 5 (Can be protected with small gear on left)
38. Fun Soup 5.10
A satisfying combination of many fun styles. Look for the deepest box to start off the block.
Sustained climbing leads to a good rest and an excellent finish. Save a small piece for the top.
Pro to 2
39. Fingerlings 5.11- (See photo on next page)
A nemesis route for many climbers ! if you cant reach the first jams of the tiny crack,
bouldering in from the left makes the bottom much harder (5.12-), better to just stack some
rocks. The rest of the steep off-set creates classic locking jams almost the whole way.
Pro to 3

Marsha Hamilton cruising Wonder Twins

23

PHOTO: BEN H ERNDON

Adrian Daigle pushes through the upper section of Fingerlings

24

40. Redside 5.10+


A colorful Lower Deschutes native that puts up a tough fight. There isnt one size you can avoid
and youll see plenty of the bigger ones. Everyone agrees that this is a five star route, well except
people who avoid fat cracks. Bring two pieces over 5 or your commitment level will go way up.
Pro to 6+
41. Wonder Twins 5.10
A top choice for fingers to fistsbut not in that order. Climb closely spaced double cracks and
then fingers around the roof. Another worthy candidate for the best 5.10 at the cliff. This route
sees a lot of airtime. Be sure of your gear at the roof.
Pro to 4
42-43 Potential
These lines will someday go free but both are going to be desperate, even by todays standards.
It is possible to top rope from the anchors of #41 and #44.
44. The Question Air Box 5.10+
After trying and failing to pull, push and pry off the sketchy looking block, we climbed it. It
seems solid. Squirm around the questionable block (most parties go left) to reach the high
quality box. Pull the roof on thin hands and hidden pockets to an anchor.
Pro to 4
45. Out Of The Question 5.12From the questionable block, step out left to the mean off-set splitter. Beware of the protruding
left point of the pillar when protecting the crux section. Easily top roped from #46. Classic.
Pro to 4

PHOTO: CASEY COLLINS

Jeff Wenger on Out Of The Question

25

46. California Weakender 5.11One of Trout Creeks best for the grade. Originally called 5.10! Most climbers find it stiff, even
at its current rating. A bouldery start leads to technical jamming before hitting the weakend
ledge. The stem box above features wide climbing and pulls a roof up top. (See opposite photo)
Pro to 5 (Possible to use smaller pro in the wide section)
47. Lou Dog 5.10
Bold, fun and tough: Lou. Cautiously gain the leaning column, most parties go left. Jam the
aesthetic fist to OW crack and easy corner system to the top. Great blue collar climbin.
Pro to 4 (No Anchor)
48. Potential
Very thin gear sketchy positions.
49. Off Width Your Head 5.9
A moderate journey into OW climbing that is best done as a two pitch route. Diagonal left to
keep the climbing wide and finish on #51.
Pro to 6
50. Horse With No Name 5.10+
Climb #49 and continue straight up the stem box with thin gear. Exit out left on steep ground
and finish on the more moderate #51.
Pro to 4
51. Moki Steps 5.8+
Start by caving in left from below #47 and chimneying toward the light. Fun and best climbed
in three pitches. Possible to start right of #52. Save small gear up high on the last pitch.
Pro to 3 (No Anchor)

26

PHOTO: B EN H ERNDON

Another classic finish, Craig Pope pulling the final moves of California Weakender

27

52. Electric Chair 5.9


Good stances, solid jamming, great gear and the ability to TR (using long slings) three other
quality lines make this a popular way to go. Best to top-belay to avoid rope drag.
Pro to 4 (Rap bolts)
53. Gas Chamber 5.10
For those seeking the wide 5.10 experience without the commitment of off-width leading, this
route is easily TRd. For the lead, bring wide gear and tough clothing. A sustained, classic OW.
Pro 6-7 (Same anchor as above)
54. The Guillotine 5.10
Named for the block that nearly decapitated the belayer on the FA, inspiring the death theme on
the nearby routes. Today the guillotine block provides a nice flat spot to sit while you boot up
for a full tour of 5.10 sizes. This is, for good reason, the most popular route to the anchors. Be
careful of getting the rope stuck in the constrictions when pulling. Use long slings if top roping.
Pro to 5 (Same anchor as above)
55. Adipose 5.10You may find this route morbidly obese if youve never ventured into the world of wide. 5.10has many faces. Come armed for fat business or the fat will consume you.
Pro to 6 (Same anchor as above)
56. Geologic Time 5.11
At some point the hanging pillar will come crashing down. Our attempts to hurry along the
geologic smack created a key jug on the resulting classic route. The column itself appears solid.
Climb around the roof, stem delicately to the jug and boulder to the top on committing ground.
Pro to 2
56a. Potential
Climb right at the roof to access #55 and then commit to the finger crack to rejoin #56.
57. Martian Chronicles 5.12Stand under this route and youll quickly see its a heads-up lead. Bouldery double cracks link
into stellar fingers and a hero finish. Take big precautions right off the deck where a slip could
drag leader and belayer into the dark depths below.
Pro to 2
58. The Right Way 5.12Follow the stunning fingers to ring locks splitter just past an oval shaped scar where small
crimps lead to the next line right. Expect powerful gear placements at the cruxing traverse and
dont let your guard down on the technical climbing above. Merge with 59s moderate finish.
Pro to 1
59. Straightway 5.11+
A technical, thought provoking classic. Jam the excellent crack and continue straight up the
line where #58 and #60 step away. The pro gets small, the holds all but disappear but the
climbing angle lessons just enough to allow difficulties to link together nicely. Stay straight on
the line for 5.11+, reaching over into the upper crack of #60 makes it easier.
Pro to 1
60. Gateway 5.11
The most moderate and most popular of the three ways. Follow #59 up about 40 ft, where the
line starts to peter out go left and then up double cracks with good shakes. The line eventually
links into an arching crack with an excellent, moderate finish. A good first Trout Creek 5.11.
Pro to 2
61. Potential
Connecting the fractures and right facing corner directly under the top of route #60 will
someday create a bold, somewhat contrived test piece with a desperate start. Decent gear
placements look unlikely for a good part of the route. Any takers?

28

Casey Wenger reaching the arching finale of Gateway

29

62. Steelhead 5.11


The elusive steelhead is rarely landed first try. Locate the steel colored scar to start. An
interesting push-and-pinch problem gives way to thin jams and excellent, varied stem work.
Bring a strong head for the bottom and protect the chance of an early pop-off with passive gear.
A stout classic; most climbers choose to TR this route (easily set up from #63) before leading it.
Pro to 2

PHOTO: A NN MARIE SWEENEY

Michael Pruden following the technical classic Steelhead

63. Bushwhacker 5.10Youll see the bush thats been whacked (and keeps growing back) on the right hand side of this
worthy box. Stop at the anchor or carry on like the FA party via easy ground up the visible
summit crack to the top. Many climbers find this one a bit stiff for the grade.
Pro to 3
64. Diminishing Returns 5.10+
One of the best routes on this part of the Main Wall. Climb the nice stem box to an anchor on
the right. This aptly named route diminishes many peoples returns and stymies some attempts
right at the chains.
Pro to 3

30

Nate Bohling placing the Bushwhacker anchor

31

The N orthern End


Several of the following climbs actually face to the west but The Northern End is best described
here since the alternative approach below gives more direct access to anything on this side of the
cliff. Also, the climbing style changes noticeably after route #65. Heading left from here most
routes are characterized by lower angles and more lichen growth as the cliff wraps to the north.
Many of the climbs are still a bit dirty. Still, this part of the cliff offers a lot!including a more
secluded feel, the areas best selection of moderates, and plenty of shade for routes #80-#100.
There are also a few harder gems here, the standout super-classic being Wheres Noah Vibbert?.
At the time of writing, the trail is brand new and still pretty faint in some areas but the cairns are
easy to follow. Walk the river road as for the regular approach. After the long gentle bend,
keep your eyes peeled for a bench (not the topographical kind, the regular old wooden kind) on
the right overlooking the river just downstream from a large island. Here the road jogs left and
back right, after it straightens look for a cairn on the left. Leave the road and follow the draw for
about 100 yards and then tend right to gain the open hillside (pictured below). Climb the
hillside via switchbacks on the right of the talus slope to eventually reach a small outcropping.
For access directly to the Main Walls left side, depart from the main trail at the outcropping and
head (steeply) right to regain a large trail leading to the horizon line and then up to The Prow.
For access to the routes on the far Northern End stay left at the outcropping on the main trail
and then scramble directly up toward the stellar line of Wheres Noah Vibbert? (route #98).

32

P HOTO: MICHA T ANNENBAUM


COLLECTION

65. Girls with Chim(n)ay 5.10Enter the chasm just left of #64 and chimney up into moderate Trout Creek terrain with good
gear. Interesting positions lead to the obvious constriction and a classic finger crack finish. Lead
on to the rim or step right to the #64 anchor. Rarely done but well worth the effort.
Pro to 5
66. Sleepy Hallow 5.10A wake-up call for the aspiring 5.10- leader. Thoughtful climbing on a giant hollow section of
rock leads to solid jamming around the roof (left) to an anchoror continue to the rim on easier
ground like the first ascent party.
Pro to 2
67. The Gods Must Be Angry 5.10Scramble up the block to begin. A few insecure moves give way to hidden holds and good jams
on this popular double crack route. Named for two separate supernatural storms, two days in a
row, that challenged the first ascent. The anchor is placed just to the left of the route.
Pro to 2

33

68. Lefty Loosey 5.10


The left crack of #67 becomes the right hand crack of this tricky line. Beware of the hollow
section of rock on the left face. A bit contrived, possibly dangerous, not highly recommended.
Pro to 2
69. Lively Up Yourself 5.10This straight-in thin to wide hand crack will lively you up for the more sustained routes to the
right. A good route and a popular first 5.10-. Lichen growth can be a factor from #69-#100.
Pro to 3(Bolts and webbing anchor)
70. Shasta 5.8
Classic and a crag favorite for the grade. Dont let the
wide start scare you away from this quality route. Shasta
is the first of many climbs providing excellent rests at
breaks in the columns. Step right to finish on the #69
anchor. Named in honor of a late, great crag dog.
Pro to 5
71. Anorexic Doughboy 5.8
Another good moderate starts just left of Shasta. Climb
double cracks and finish left on #72.
Pro to 4
72. Plumbline 5.9 (see picture on next page)
One line left of #71 is an interesting climb. The
uncontrived moderate utilizes the double cracks with an
emphasis on the right plumbline through the shallow
roof. For the semi-contrived but better route (5.10-), climb
the line without help from the left crack.
Pro to 2-lots of fingers (chain anchor out of sight)

34

73. Bro Club 5.10


Big Bros that is. This is the rightmost of the two obvious off widths on The Prows right side.
Look for a notch down and left of #72 to start, see photo on page #32. Take the line to the rim.
Pro to 7
74-77. The Prow Climbs 5.6-5.8
Long, long ago the columns on this part of the cliff buckled outward until they snapped in
several places creating individual, stacked pillars of various lengths. For climbers, the breaks
make for positive horizontals and less sustained climbing angles. All the routes on this part of
the cliff link to the top, none of them have anchors!although it is possible to use the anchors for
climbs #78-#80 if you are doing something on The Prows left side or #72 on the right.

Most of the climbs on The Prow go free from mid-5th class to the 5.8 range. There are a couple
harder onesconsider this area adventure land. Bring long runners or break the climbs into
two pitches. Due to the loose rock youll likely encounter up high, these easy routes are some of
the more dangerous at the cliff. Youll notice a few more lines than the corresponding numbers
(#70-#77) indicate. Yes, they have all been done, see the FRA info at the end of this text.
Of all the nearby moderates to choose from, Route 66 (now listed as #75) is done most often and
has the reputation as being the coolest line on The Prow. Coming in at 5.7 (right off the ground)
this is one to bring your non-climber friends up to check out the view from on top. Again, tread
lightly up high as not to pull something off and bring long runners to prevent rope drag.

35

78. Craig Lueben Memorial 5.8


A tribute to the recently lost inventor of the Big Bro. There are three long, arching columns that
form the left side of The Prow. This is the rightmost OW. Climb it to a stance.
Pro to 9
79. Chimney Sweep 5.9+R
The next line left is a squeeze chimney. Lichen should be less of a factor than the FA, but this
route doesnt see many ascents. Top out on a small ledge where the leaning columns come to an
end. Use the same anchor as #78.
Pro to #5 Big Bro
80. Middle Earth 5.9
You will see a cave like chasm to descend into from the base of the Chimney Sweep. Climb
straight up, eventually topping out through the tunnel of light above. A new anchor has been
placed to service all three routes on this page. The climb is not visible in the above photo.
Pro to 5

36

PHOTO: GAVIN FERGUSON

Pat McCarthy on the FA of T-Handles

81. Slideshow 5.9


This is the first route to the left of the lower angle fat cracks on the north side of The Prow.
Scramble up the short pillar to a shallow stem box with double finger cracks to begin. An
exciting outing in the spirit of all things dirty, Slideshow might make for its namesake until it gets
a cleaning. As is, it is not recommended for a first 5.9 lead. Connect left to the #83 anchor.
Pro to 1
82. T-Handles 5.9
Climb fists to fingers and, to convince your partner to follow, bring a brush. This will be a
popular route once it is cleaned. For now it makes good company to #81. Use the #83 anchor.
Pro to 4

37

*Most parties in search of classic moderates head straight to this part of the cliff (Routes #83-#100).
83. Talkin It Clean 5.10Walk the talk. Technical thin hands to
fingers leads to a thought provoking finish.
This is currently the cleanest offering of the
routes close by. The shorter length,
straightforward protection and low angle
make it one of the crags most popular routes
at the grade.
Pro to 2
84. Ol Dirty Bastard 5.10+
A fun, moderate crack suddenly turns into a
thin little bastard. Expect problematic
stemming above small gear placements.
Despite the name, the route is reasonably
clean and despite the grade, it shuts most
people down.
Pro to 2
Talkin it Clean FA
85. Deparado 5.11Similar in style to ODB above
with excellent climbing
throughout. Somehow we
bypassed this route until the
summer of 2009. Bring small
gear for the upper section and
use everything to your
advantage, especially the low
angle. A great route that
might be a bit easier than #84.
Hmmm.
Pro to 2
86. Buried Alive 5.10
Those in search of a true
circus route, step right up!
Unbelievably, this route was
done prior to the classic #85.
Not surprisingly, it was on a
dare. Step down and to the
left of the pictured block
where it is possible to
scramble up into a chamber
room where lies a nice hand
crack. Climb hands in an odd
position, place a high piece
and down climb until it is
possible to squeeze out into
precarious squirming (see
page #55 FA thumbnail).
Dont take this route lightly, a
fall in the wrong place could
land the leader onto the pillar.
Pro to 6 (at least)
An anchor was placed servicing #85
and #86 after the photo was taken. PHOTO: CASEY COLLINS

38

PHOTO: ANN MARIE SWEENEY

Buzzing the FA of The Beer Float

87. Great Googlie Mooglie 5.8+


This excellent and popular climb ascends a variably sized stem box one line to the left of #86.
Expect everything, including off-width sizes before stepping left around the roof to an anchor.
Pro to 5
88. Mr. Green Jeans 5.9
Another quality route and a great choice for the aspiring wide crack leader. At any point, offwidth technique can be avoided with hidden options. Traverse right to the #87 anchor.
Pro to 5
89. The Beer Float 5.9
This classic summertime diversion is well worth the effort. Continue directly up the thin crack
that quickly widens (instead of heading left to #90) and finish as for #90 after the stance.
Pro to 4
90. Usual Suspects 5.8+
Trouts most popular moderate. Look for a strangely placed hand crack starting off a horizontal
low on the route. Youll know it when you see it. Classic!
Pro to 3
91. Zippin Your Shin Skin 5.9+
Careful or you will. Climb the right facing corner directly left of #90. Varied, physical climbing.
Pro to 4

39

92. The Wiggle Room 5.10+


You better hope your wiggles
dont turn into the shakes on this
northern classic. A popular top
rope, this route is now clean and
quite soft for the grade.
Pro to 2
93. The Northern Thrown 5.8+
or Change Over 5.9
Either start yields another one of
the more popular moderate
cracks at Trout Creek. Start as
for #92 or #94, hand traverse at
about 10 ft to gain the throne
pillar and enjoy straight-in crack
climbing in a great position.
Pro to 4

PHOTO: NATE BOHLING

Following the FA of The Wiggle Room

94. Haunchos De Vomitos 5.10Full squirm value. Burrow into the chimney and then escape before the constriction makes you
sick. Follow the thin crack connecting good horizontals and step right to the #93 anchor or
venture on up to the rim.
Pro to 5
95. Salad Daze 5.9
Start just left of #94 on top of the short pillar. Climb the obvious wide hand crack that turns into
twin cracks about half way up. Follow these cracks until it is possible to traverse left across
horizontals up to the Rodeo Crack anchor. A great climb thats getting cleaner by the month.
Pro to 3

40

96. Bedside Manner 5.9 (See photo on previous page)


A bouldery start quickly opens from fingers to hands to fist jams. The wider crack looks harder
than it is thanks to satisfying reach-around possibilities.
Pro to 4
97. Rodeo Crack 5.10
This proud OW sits just left of #96. Cowboy-up into 5 stacks until gaining a hand jam rest at
mid-height. From there, continue with more 5 buckin to the anchors. A Northern End classic.
Pro to 5

98. Wheres Noah Vibbert 5.11The most sustained route on The Northern End and one of the finest climbs at Trout Creek!
Technical, off-size jamming eventually turns to fingers, tips, and arte pinches before stepping
right to the #97 anchor. It is possible to bail early to #97 dodging the upper difficulties but this
finish misses out on the stellar final moves of the true line. Stay straight for the real thing.
Pro to 1
99. Ninjinski 5.10Ring locks on great low angle climbing. Enjoy quality climbing all the way to the rim.
Currently dirty up top, but well worth the effort. Be very aware of loose rock toward the upper
section and save gear for an anchor.
Pro to 1
100. Underground Up 5.10
As the name suggests, you can actually descend 15 or 20 feet at the base of this route to get the
very most out of the line. Like its neighbors, enjoy great low angle jamming and stem work.
Pro to 1

41

The S outhw est C orner


All climbs from here through The Cool Wall are listed from left to right.
Be very wary of loose rock in this area.

101. Utah Sucks 5.11


Like #102, named for of old tunnel graffiti. Climb the short, steep stem box followed by a
transition onto strange horizontally layered columns. Aim directly for a six-foot roof split by a
hand crack and continue on questionable rock to the top. Not recommended due to loose blocks
up high on the route.
Gear to 3 (No Anchor)
102. Herman is Pregnant 5.10+
Finger stacks on sharp rock lead to a rightward traverse and a strenuous mantle on slopers.
Follow the obvious lower angle line to the top.
Gear to 1 (No Anchor)
103. Potential
Another link up to #102 can be had one line to the right.
*Many of us have contemplated punching a route or two straight out the middle of
the wild overhanging columns to the left of #93. For now, we have all decided to
avoid this section of cliff since it would mean trashing dozens of canyon wren
nests as well as a large, sometimes occupied, eagles nest. Please think twice if you
are considering developing routes here.

42

104. Blackened Trout 5.8


Arapalise in Madras? Nope. Potential loose rock makes this outing low on most peoples
priority list. If cleaned, it might get done now and again.
Pro to 1 (No Anchor)
105. Potters Pillar 5.10- (See photo on page #11)
Part way down the hill, youll find Trout Creeks strangest climb. Ascend the sketchy pillar.
No Pro (No Anchor) The FA threw a top rope over the pillar.

Castle Wa ll-North
Castle Wall sits opposite the SW Corner of the Main Wall. Approach from the SW Corner.

43

The FA of Rock Around the Block

Following the FA of A Walk in the Park

106. Rock Around the Block 5.8+


Dance up the short hand crack and easily identifiable left leaning columns split at a friendly
angle, then rock around the teetering (but solid) block at the top. Some lichen but getting
cleaner every year. This is the best route and most popular of he nearby routes.
Pro to 4
107. Channel Surfing 5.7
Chimney and stem up the low angle box to the right of #106. This may become a popular
moderate after it gets cleaned. Avoid damaging the tree by starting in from the right.
Pro to 4
108. A Walk in the Park 5.5
Just right of #107 is Trout Creeks easiest described route and a friendly stroll into the world of
crack climbing. For others in this range look immediately right or travel to the more plentiful
moderates at The Prow (routes #70-#77).
Pro to 3 (No Anchor)

44

Castle Wa ll-Front
You dont have to spend much time at this part of Castle Wall to realize the inherent dangers of
loose, balanced columns jumbled around the base and leaning against the wall. This is a sketchy
place to go rock climbing, but for those seeking an adventure outing it has a few intriguing
climbs and potential for a few more.

109. The Pauper 5.9


Climb the steepest columns on the lower left side of Castle Wall. After a low angle section,
continue on steeper ground past a small roof to the rim.
Pro to 3 (No Anchor)
110. Castlevania 5.9
This climb attacks the left side of the main headwall atop the loose jumbled boulders. There are
a couple ways to connect the lower columns into the steeper crack heading to the rim.
Pro to 3 (No Anchor)
111. Stormin the Castle 5.10Excellent adventure climbing but serious due to an unavoidable hanging section of column
about 40 feet from the rim. See the caution sign on the next page. Start on the cleanest section of
rock and connect up to the crack leading into the aesthetic overhanging dihedral.
Pro to 2 (No Anchor)

45

112. Potential
The upper dihedral looks awesome getting there looks to be bold.
113. The Watchtower 5.10Be aware of loose dinner plates as the columns peter out on this worthy route. There are a
couple alternative ways to get to the upper face crack.
Pro to 1 (No Anchor)

Other Castle Wall Potential


A couple shorter lines to the right of #113 look like they may be worth the scrambling approach.
In particular the gaping OW pictured above should be worth the effort but be really careful
getting to it. The loose rock dangers in this area are very real.

The C ool Wall


This wall is a bit of a struggle to get to but once youre there, moving around the base is much
easier then any other area at Trout Creek. Like the Northern End and Castle Walls north side,
youll enjoy cool temperatures when everybody else is roasting at the Main Wall. The listed
lines at The Cool Wall are all worth checking out and are generally cleaner than other shady
options at Trout Creek.
Theres a lot of rock between Castle Wall and The Cool Wall. For climbers unafraid of obscurity,
these weird columnar features and odd sections of rim rock will surely connect together in a
couple spots for grand (maybe even protectable) adventures. Still, nothing jumps out enough to
be included as a route of obvious potential.
Those looking to repeat the established classics of The Cool Wall should head straight to the
stand of trees on the crags right side. There are two ways to approach The Cool Wall.
Approach 1 is generally preferred. As for Castle Wall, routes are listed from left to right since
most climbers approach from the direction of the Main Wall.

46

Approach 1. Veer right at the base of the steep hillside leading up to the Main Wall (see page
10) and then connect your way to the crags right side by avoiding the largest sections of talus
and cruising straight up the steep bowl pictured above. Once you reach the wall, head right
until you locate Chick Magnet. Approach time is about 1 hour.

Approach 2. Stay on the river road for 10 minutes past the approach trail to the main wall.
After passing the campground, tend left to gain the bench. From here the steep hillside leads
directly to a talus field at the right side of the cliff. Like Approach #1, hiking time is about 1
hour.
114. Webelos Gone Wild 5.10In the middle of 07 a single bolt anchor appeared on a line formerly listed as potential. It is
located several hundred feet left of #115. Another bolt should be added soon. No photo.
Pro to 3 (Single bolt anchor?)
Left side Cool Wall Potential
There are still several moderate cracks leftbut they probably will be equipped soon.
About 100 feet left of Chick Magnet, it is possible to scramble up to a ledge with four varied
routes to choose from. #118 is a standout Cool Wall classic. See the next page.

47

115. 4 Letter Word 5.10Take something bigger than a 3 piece or (like the FA) you'll be saying four letter words in
addition to wide. FYI, dirt is also an operative four letter word for this route.
Pro to 5
116. Beauty in Dirt 5.10+
Finger locks low on the route, a loose block midway, hands to finish. This dirty yet worthy line
shares the anchor with #115. Despite the dirt, enjoy good climbing.
Pro to 2
117. Potential
A mean looking OW will share the #116 anchor.

118. Dry The Rain 5.11+


Climb a stubby column on its left. Pull into the crack proper and jam tight hands, fingers and
tips to a bulge, pull it and continue on tricky ground to an anchor. An excellent pitch.
Pro to 1
119. The Way Of The Bull 5.11
A welded crack opens to hands. The crux right off the ground is tough to protect but difficulties
ease quickly. Surmount the column and carry on to top of mesa. Wander through range land
and cow patties to belay off a juniper about 70 feet back from the rim.
Pro to 5
120. Chick Magnet 5.10
Small hands? Heres your Gold Rush. Climb the beautiful thin hand crack in an isolated
position. The anchor has been extended to make clipping the chains more feasible. Before, the
moves to the anchor provided a lousy ending to an otherwise great route.
Pro to 2
121. The Gambler 5.11+
Awesome, varied, go-for-it climbing! Step right from Chick Magnet 15-20 feet to start. The crux
section hits high on the route as locker jams end and the real fun begins. A Cool Wall classic!
Pro to 1 (One 3-4 piece is useful at the start)

48

122. Bood Guky 5.11


The striking left-facing corner creates a laybackin good booky, or something similar to it.
Difficulties build slowly, leading to a thin pumpy crux near the top. Another must-do climb.
Pro to 1

123. Glory Bulge 5.10


Pass the broken bottom to the bulge. Jam and stem your way to glory. Use Anchor #122.
Pro to 2
124. Pearls Jam 5.11Marred only by a similar start as #123, enjoy excellent, sustained climbing and a well-protected
entry into the 5.11 range.
Pro to 1 (Rap Bolt Anchor)
125. Billy is Gay 5.9
This grand double crack excursion is a swell coming-out route for the budding 5.9 leader. A
neat funnel shape is created as the area between the cracks steadily grows bigger and wider.
Named from more tunnel graffiti.
Pro to 3

49

126. Merle Kicks Ass 5.10


Ready to rumble? Heres a varied little OW with enough burl to pummel the unexpecting 5.10
leader. This route should not be repeated in its current condition. There is no anchor and the
gear at the top is sketchy at best.
Gear to 6 (No Anchor, simul-rap the column, have fun pulling the rope)
127. Potential
The right side of the pillar is home to another lil big fat crack that promises to be fun.
128.. Promise Not To Stop When I Say When 5.10
From a distance this climb looks to be a fat crack but, when youre standing under it, a left hand
(thinner) crack helps keep the promise.
Pro to 5
129. Potential
Youll notice a cord-a-lette anchor half way up this line. It has not yet been completed due to the
heavy lichen factor on the routes upper section.
Pro to 3
130. Potential
One climb right of #129 is a nice line but, like its neighbor, the low angle section will make for a
very dirty affair.
Pro to 3
131. Non Servium 5.10
No classic but better than trail work. Surmount a stubby column to begin a finger to hand crack.
Where the crack ends, and rock above turns into horizontal columns, either go right around
buttress or continue straight up. Both lines converge at an anchor.
Pro to 3

50

First (Recorded) Ascent Information


The following recorded climbs are, to the best of my knowledge, the first free ascents on lead. In a
couple cases, climbs that were done on lead with falls, hangs and/or aid are listed with the
designation F.A. (First Ascent) followed by the F.F.A. (First Free Ascent) if the route was later
climbed free by someone else. F.S. designates routes first climbed free solo. Routes listed as
Potential have not yet seen known F.F.A. ascents. Due to the nature of traditional climbing and
Trout Creeks history, this section is subject to more errors than any other part of the guide.
Again, our hats should be off to the unknown hardmen and women who quietly visited the area over
the past few decades and also to the early pioneers like Ramsey, Sandahl, Rich and others who
probably ticked more of the area classics than they can now recall. As mentioned at the beginning
of this guide, Bill Ramsey solo top-roped dozens of lines at the crag in the early to mid-eighties.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
5a.
6.
7.
8.
8a
9.
9a.
10.
11.
12.
12a.
13.
14.
14a.
14b
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.

Napoleon, 5.10+, Jeff Wenger, Casey Collins, 6/05


Out Ridin! Fences, 5.12-, Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, 4/06
Time Bomb, 5.11 David Potter, Brett Yost, Dave McRae, 5/06
Double Trouble, 5.11 Jeff Wenger, Colleen Brennan, 4/03
Two Step Right, 5.9+ (lower pillar John Rich/friends) higher anchor, Jeff Wenger, Colleen Brennan, 3/03
The Way That It Was, 5.10+R, Jeff Wenger, Cody Scarpella, 3/10
Two Step Left, 5.10-(lower pillar John Rich/friends) higher anchor, Jeff Wenger, Colleen Brennan, 4/03
Midas Touch, 5.11+, Pat McCarty, Phillip Hranicka, 2/08
Alchemy, 5.12-, Several ascents to the #9 anchor; Full route going right at the horizontal, David Potter, 11/06
Pan Handlin!, 5.10, Jeff Wenger, Lucas Hodgen, 6/08
Gold Rush, 5.10-, Jeff Wenger, Colleen Brennan, 4/02
Dame El Oro (Gold Rush Extention), 5.11, Sam Macke, 5/07; F.F.A. Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, 11/07
Hip to Toe, 5.11+, Cody Scarpella, Greg Garretson, 8/08
Unknown (U1), 5.10, Brooke Sandahl, Stevie Byrne, mid-80s (Replaced anchor 2/02, Jeff Wenger)
Landing a Monster, 5.10, Brett Yost, Karl Sutton, 6/03
Monster, 5.12-, Jason Huston, Dylan Johnson, 11/06
The River Wide, 5.10-, Brett Yost, Karl Sutton, 6/03
JR Token, 5.10, John Rich/friends, mid-80!s, (Placed anchor 2/02, Jeff Wenger)
Immortal Illusions, 5.12 R, Chris Garner, Matt Coty and the rest of our tag team, 1/08
JR Token Extension, 5.10, Pat McCarthy, Marsha Hamilton, 5/09
Potential
Reservation Blues, 5.12+, Cody Scarpella, Jeff Wenger, 2/10
Potential
Potential
Full Clip, 5.12+, Will Stanhope, Mike Doyle, Ben Moon, 4/08
Winter Sustenance, F.A. Matt Coty, Cody Scarpella, 11/06; F.F.A. Will Stanhope, Mike Doyle, Ben Moon, 4/08
The Space Between, 5.10+, Jeff Wenger, John Rich, Colleen Brennan, 10/01
Space Mission, 5.11, Jeff Wenger, Colleen Brennan, 3/02
Purple Pinky Eater, 5.12-, Ben Moon, Colin Haley, Matt Coty, (Pre-placed gear), 10/07 F.F.A. Cody Scarpella, Greg Garretson, 8/08
Mr. Squiggles, 5.10, Hidetake Suzuki, Brooke Sandahl, mid-80!s (Replaced gear anchor 4/02, Jeff Wenger)
Suzuki, 5.10+, Hidetake Suzuki, Brooke Sandahl, mid-80s (Placed anchor 5/02, Jeff Wenger)
Fissuremen, 5.10-, Brett Yost, Karl Sutton, 6/03; (Placed anchor 3/04, Gavin Ferguson)
The May Fly, 5.12+, Cody Scarpella, Jeff Wenger, 9/09
Unknown (U2), 5.10+, Brooke Sandahl, Stevie Byrne, mid-80s (Replaced anchor 2/02, Jeff Wenger)
Unknown (U3), 5.9+, Brooke Sandahl, Stevie Byrne, mid-80s (Same anchor as #23)
Wengerbanger, 5.10, F.A. Karl Sutton, Brett Yost, 5/03; F.F.A. Unknown
Slim Pickens, 5.8+R, Brett Yost, Karl Sutton, 5/03
Muffin Top, 5.10, F.A. Unknown, possibly Jim Ablao, 6/03; F.F.A. Jed Brown, Collin Haley, 11/06
The Long March, 5.11-, Mike Tsoi, Colleen Brennan, Jack Herrick, Jeff Wenger, 4/03
Redd Alert, 5.11+, Pat McCarthy, Jeff Wenger, 10/07
Tawtnuk Tiicham, 5.12-, Jeff Wenger, Chris Garner, Lucas Hodgen, 4/08
Unknown (U4) 5.11-, Brooke Sandahl, Stevie Byrne, mid-80!s, (Replaced anchor 2/02, Jeff Wenger)
Chinese Chicken, 5.10-, Mike Tsoi, Jack Herrick, Jeff Wenger, 4/03
Fun Soup, 5.10, Jeff Wenger, Marty Hickey, 4/02
Fingerlings, 5.11-, Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 5/03
Red Side, 5.10+, Jeff Wenger, Darryl Nakahira, 5/03
Wonder Twins, 5.10, Jamie Wenger, John Rich, Michael Pruden, Jeff Wenger, 11/01
Potential
Potential
The Question Air Box, 5.10+, Jeff Wenger, Gavin Ferguson, 4/07
Out of the Question, 5.12-, Jeff Wenger, Casey Collins, 8/07
California Weakender, 5.11-, Nate Bohling, Jamie Wenger, Jeff Wenger, 4/07
Lou Dog, 5.10, Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 5/03
Potential
Off Width Your Head, 5.9, Lucas Hodgen, Gavin Ferguson, 1/08
Horse With No Name, 5.10+, Cody Scarpella, Pat McCarthy, 3/10
Moki Steps, 5.9, Gavin Ferguson, Kory Nelson, 5/07, Low start: Gavin Ferguson, Sarah Conroy, 6/07
Electric Chair, 5.9, Gavin Ferguson, Kory Nelson, 4/05
Gas Chamber, 5.10, Gavin Ferguson, Sarah Conroy, 3/06
The Guillotine, 5.10, Gavin Ferguson, Kory Nelson, 2/05
Adipose, 5.10-, Gavin Ferguson, Sarah Conroy, 03/05
Geologic Time, 5.11, Phillip Hranicka, Pat McCarthy, 3/08
Martian Chronicles, 5.12-, Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka , 3/08

51

58.
59.
60.
61.
62.
63.
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
69.
70.
71.
72.
73-77.
78.
79.
80.
81.
82.
83.
84.
85.
86.
87.
88.
89.
90.
91.
92.
93.
94.
95.
96.
97.
98.
99.
100.
101.
102.
103.
104.
105.
106.
107.
108.
109.
110.
111.
112.
113.
114.
115.
116.
117.
118.
119.
120.
121.
123.
124.
125.
126.
127.
128.
129.
130.
131.
132.

The Right Way, 5.12-, Pat McCarthy, Marsha Hamilton, 4/09


Staightway, 5.11+, Jeff Wenger, Pat McCarthy, 3/08
Gateway, 5.11, Pat McCarthy, Jeff Wenger, Gavin Ferguson, 6/07
Potential
Steelhead, 5.11, Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 2/08
Bushwacker, 5.10-, Gavin Ferguson, Pete Lynn, 03/04, (Placed anchor 5/04, Nate Bohling)
Diminishing Returns, 5.10+, Pat McCarthy, Gavin Ferguson, 3/05
Girls With Chim(n)ay, 5.10-, Micha Tannenbaum, Dustin Hardgrove, 5/07
Sleepy Hallow, 5.10-, Dan Higgins, late 90!s, (Placed anchor Jamie Wenger, 4/05)
The Gods Must Be Angry, 5.10-, Jack Herrick, Mike Tsoi, Jeff Wenger, 4/03
Lefty Loosey, Jeff Wenger, Casey Collins, 4/07
Lively Up Yourself, 5.10-, John Rich, Jeff Wenger, Colleen Brennan 10/01
Shasta, 5.8, Unknown, 80!s crowd? Named by Gavin Ferguson
Potential
The Bro Club, 5.10, Gavin Ferguson, Lucas Hodgen, 5/04
Northern Moderates, Sahaptin speaking hardmen, long ago (All routes have been done FS since 2000)
The Chimney Sweep, 5.9+, Gavin Ferguson, Pat McCarthy, 6/05
Middle Earth, 5.9, Gavin Ferguson, Lucas Hodgen, 8/04
Craig Lueben Memorial, 5.8, Gavin and Sarah Ferguson, 9/09
Slideshow, 5.9, Jeff Wenger, Nate Bohling, Jamie Wenger, 4/07
T-Handles, 5.9, Pat McCarthy, Lucas Hodgen, 6/05
Talkin! It Clean, 5.10-, Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 4/05
Ol! Dirty Bastard, 5.10+, Phillip Hranicka, Pat McCarthy, 3/08
Desparado,, 5.11-, Trevor Bowman, Brian Schmitz, 7/09
Buried Alive, 5.10, Jeff Wenger, Pat McCarthy, 4/09
Great Googlie Mooglie, 5.8+, Gavin Ferguson, Sarah Conroy, 5/07
Mr. Green Jeans, 5.9, Pat McCarthy, Gavin Ferguson, 5/07
The Beer Float, 5.9, Jeff Wenger, Michael Pruden, 6/07
Usual Suspects, 5.8+, Gavin Ferguson, Pat McCarthy, 7/05
Zippin! Your Shin Skin, 5.9+, Michael Pruden, Jamie Wenger 4/05
The Wiggle Room, 5.10+, Nate Bohling, Jamie Wenger 5/05
The Northern Throne 5.8+, Jeff Wenger, Michael Pruden, 4/05; (Left Side) Change Over, 5.9, Dave McRae, David Potter 4/04
Haunchos de Vomitos, 5.10-, Micha Tannenbaum, Kate Hawley, 8/07
Salad Daze, 5.9, Gavin Ferguson, Sarah Conroy, 6/06
Bedside Manner, 5.9, Pat McCarthy, Gavin Ferguson, 7/05
Rodeo Crack, 5.10+, Gavin Ferguson, Kory Nelson, 9/03
Where!s Noah Vibbert, 5.11-, Lucas Hodgen, Gavin Ferguson, 8/08; Direct Finish, Cody Scarpella, 9/09
Ninjinski, aka?, 5.10, 80!s Crowd?
Underground Up, 5.10, 80!s Crowd? Two guys from Eugene, 9/08
Utah Sucks, 5.11, Dave McRrae, David Potter, 6/06
Herman is Pregnant, 5.10+, Dave Potter, Dave McRae 6/06
Potential
Blackened Trout, 5.8, Gavin Ferguson, Ty Melero, 5/02
Potter!s Pillar, 5.10-, David Potter, Brett Yost (Top rope thrown over the pillar), 5/06
Rock Around the Block, 5.8+, Colleen Brennan, Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 1/02
Channel Surfing, 5.7, Gavin Ferguson, Jeff Wenger, Eddie Lacey, Ben Freud, Roman Brocklapuos, 3/09
A Walk in the Park, 5.5, Jeff Wenger, Jesse Wallulatum, Nathaniel Fletcher, Chris Adams, 10/09
The Pauper, 5.9, Dave McRae, David Potter, 6/06
Castlevania, 5.9, F.S. Jeff Wenger, 4/03
Stormin! the Castle, 5.10-, Jeff Wenger, Michael Pruden, 10/06
Potential
The Watchtower, 5.10-, David Potter, Dave McRae, 6/06
Webelos Gone Wild, 5.10-, Nathan Tack, 6/07
4 Letter Word, 5.10-, Pat McCarthy, Marsha Hamilton, 9/08
Potential
Beauty In Dirt, 5.10+, Pat McCarthy, Marsha Hamilton, 9/08
Dry The Rain, 5.11+, Pat McCarthy, Marsha Hamilton, 11/08
The Way Of The Bull, 5.11, Pat McCarthy, Marsha Hamilton, 10/08
The Gambler, 5.11+, Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, 8/09
Chick Magnet, 5.10, Dave McRae, Brett Yost, 6/04 (Placed Anchor, 6/04, Ted Stahl)
Bood Guky, 5.11, F.A. Ted Stahl, Brett Yost, 6/04; F.F.A. Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, 9/07
Glory Bulge, 5.10, Dave McCrae, Brett Yost, 6/04
Pearl!s Jam, 5.11-, Brett Yost, Ted Stahl, 6/04
Billy is Gay, 5.9, David Potter, Dave McRae, Robert Johnson, 6/04
Merle Kicks Ass, 5.10, Dave McRae, Pat McCarthy, Jeff Wenger, 7/07
Potential
Promise Not To Stop When I Say When, 5.10, Bret Yost, Ted Stahl, 6/04
Potential
Potential
Non Servium, 5.10, Marsha Hamilton, Pat McCarthy, 10/08

PHOTO: D AN HIGGINS

52

Sam Macke on the aesthetic U4

53

Routes By Rating
We have painstakingly extrapolated data from climbers of all shapes, sizes and abilities in order
to create a hierarchical route list. The most sought after lines in each grade are listed top down
by popularity, not by difficulty. These recommendations are based on carefully measured
exclamations ranging from, Wow, thats one of the best damn routes Ive ever done! to This route
sucks! How could anyone call this monotonous climbing classic!. Problem is, those two quotes were
shouted from the same route on the same day. If grades are subjective, recommendation ratings
are nothing short of style-bias opinions but since we stayed away from a star system, the list
below might be a good place to start.
Obviously, wandering around and seeing what sucks you in or repels you is the best way to
pick a climb. And while theres no substitute for intuition or good old fashion peer-pressure
when deciding what to actually lead, those searching (for or trying to avoid) certain types of
climbing should also check out the general style references to the right of each climb. Nearly half
the pitches between 5.10 to 5.12+ could be in contention for the crags best lines depending on
what style or difficulty you are after.
TH=THIN (SMALLER THAN HANDS)
H=HANDS TO FISTS
OW=OFF-WIDTH, FACE CLIMBING
CH=CHIMNEY
DC=DOUBLE CRACKS
F=FACE CLIMBING
V=VARIED (several styles)

5.8 and Under

A Walk in the Park


Channel Surfing
The Prow Climbs
Shasta
Anorexic Doughboy
Craig Lueben Memorial
Blackened Trout

#108
#107
#74-77
#70
#71
#79
#104

DC
DC
V
DC
DC
OW
TH

5.8+

Usual Suspects
The Northern Thrown
Moki Steps
Rock Around The Block
Slim Pickins (5.8+R)
Great Googlie Mooglie

#90
#93
#51
#106
#31
#87

H-TH
DC, H
V
H
CH
V

5.9

Salad Daze
The Beer Float
Billy is Gay
Mr. Green Jeans
Plumbline
Electric Chair
Change Over
Off Width Your Head
Bedside Manner
T-Handles
Middle Earth
The Pauper
Castlevania
Slide Show

#95
#89
#125
#88
#72
#52
#93
#49
#96
#82
#78
#109
#110
#81

H, DC
TH-OW
DC
OW
TH, DC
TH, DC
CH, H
OW
V
H
OW-CH
V
V
TH

5.9+

U3
Two Step Right /Left (5.10-)
Time Bomb (higher start)
Zippin your Shin Skin
The Chimney Sweep

#24
#5, #6
#3
#83
#80

DC, CH
H, DC
CH
V
OW-CH

54

5.10-

Gold Rush
Talkin it Clean
Sleepy Hallow
Chinese Chicken
Lively Up Yourself
Bushwhacker
The Gods Must Be Angry
The River Wide
Adipose
Girls With Chim(n)ay
Haunchos de Vomitos
Fissuremen
4 Letter Word
The Watchtower
Stormin the Castle
Underground Up

#9
#83
#66
#31
#69
#64
#67
#13
#55
#65
#94
#26
#116
#113
#111
#100

H
TH
DC
DC
TH-H
DC
DC
TH-CH
OW
CH-TH
CH-TH
V
V
V
V
TH

5.10

Pan Handlin
JR Token/JR Extention
Wonder Twins
Mr. Squiggles
Fun Soup
U1
Muffin Top
Chick Magnet
Rodeo Crack
Ninjinski
The Guillotine
Glory Bulge
Lefty Loosey
Wengerbanger
Landing a Monster
Lou Dog
Non Servum
Promise Not to Stop
Gas Chamber
Buried Alive
Merle Kicks Ass

#8a
#14/#14b
#41
#24
#38
#11
#32
#120
#97
#99
#54
#123
#68
#30
#12a
#47
#131
#128
#53
#86
#126

H-TH
H-TH
V
TH-H
DC
DC, H
OW
TH-H
OW
TH
V
DC
DC
TH-H
TH-H
H-TH
V
DC
OW
H-OW
OW

5.10+

The Space Between


Redside
The Long March
Suzuki
U2
Diminishing Returns
The Question Air Box
Ol Dirty Bastard
Horse With No Name
Beauty in Dirt
The Wiggle Room
Herman is Pregnant
Napoleon
The Way That It Was

#21
#40
#33
#25
#28
#64
#44
#84
#50
#116
#92
#102
#1
#6a

DC
TH-OW
V
DC
DC
DC
DC
TH
V
V
DC-TH
V
TH
H-F

5.11-

Wheres Noah Vibbert


U4
Fingerlings (Harder if you are short)

#98
#36
#39

TH
DC
TH

55

5.11-

Pearls Jam
California Weakender
Double Trouble (5.11 to the top)
Desparado

#124
#46
#4
#85

TH
V
DC
TH

5.11

Space Mission
Dame El Oro
Steelhead
Bood Guky
Gateway
Geologic Time
The Way of the Bull
Time Bomb
Utah Sucks

#22
#9a
#62
#122
#60
#56
#119
#3
#101

DC
TH-F
DC
TH
TH-DC
TH
TH-H
TH, CH
V

5.11+

Midas Touch
Hip to Toe
Out Ridin Fences
Straightway
Dry the Rain
The Gambler
Redd Alert

#8
#10
#2
#59
#118
#121
#29

TH-V
DC
TH, DC
TH
TH
TH-F
TH-V

5.12-

Alchemy
Purple Pinky Eater
Out of the Question
Monster
The Martian Chronicles
Tawtnuk Tiicham
The Right Way

#8
#23
#45
#12
#57
#30
#58

TH
DC-TH
TH
TH-H
TH
TH
TH

5.12

Winter Sustenance
Immortal Illusions (R)

#20
#14a

TH
TH-F

5.12+

The May Fly


Reservation Blues
Full Clip

#27
#16
#19

TH
TH
TH

(Continued)

Most of the routes at Trout Creek are, in some way, worth stepping up to try but the routes
listed on this page are climbs worth aspiring to. Despite the grade, so is the climb below, Muffin
Top ! proof positive for thinking of the grades as suggestions only.

56

Food and F un in Madras


Although not exactly known for its fine dining, Madras has several great, authentic
Mexican options for the aprs-climb feed. If youre giving the Madras singles scene the
shakedown, try The Meet Market for a cultural extravaganza!
Taco Express! Halfway through town heading south
This great family operation graduated from the below van to a permanent location.
Taco Express is the top choice for Mexican food in Madras.

Pepes Mexican Restaurant: Halfway through town heading north


Pepe has an inspiring Rags-to-Madras story that is almost as good as his food.
Good tortas!
Martinas Market: 839 SW Hwy 97
Popular with long range, south of the border bus lines. The Mexican bus-stop real deal.
Cabanita Panaderia Restaurant: 241 Se 5th St
Good Mexican food and a friendly atmosphere.
Mexico City: 48 SW 4th St
If your after a good selection of beer and dont mind syrupy margaritas
Black Bear Diner Halfway through town heading south on the left
Have an appetite for four? Find this obnoxiously portioned Northern Cali chain.
Breakfast and everything else served all day.
Ginos Grill Halfway through town heading south on the right
Madras chic in a newer building. The only spot listed where you can find a good
glass of wine and feel a little pressure to wash-up before entering.
Cove Bar and Grill Corner of SW E St and SW 1 st St
An okay choice for pub food.
Meet Market Pub: 107 NE Cedar St (By Safeway)
Looking for a place to knock back a few cold ones or for a date to bring back to the
campground? Belly up at this Madras classic.

57

Getting the Guide: As easy as


1. Going to L ulu.com
2. Se ar ching fo r Tro ut C ree k Climbing
3. Orde ring th e p rint or download o ption of yo ur choice .
Its that simple. There are a quite a few reasons why I have decided to go this route. First, it
allows you (each person) to be able to print on demand and I dont have to commit to a
truckload of copies prior to actually selling any of them. More importantly, it is the most
reasonable pricing per book and I can provide downloads for free.
e-Book Download: The master file of this document is formatted at 6 x 9. When printed
on 8.5 x 11 it comes out to about the right size for a guidebook but with really large
margins. If that bugs you, trim the edges or better yet, swing into a print shop and grab
some nice 6 x 9 (US Trade) paper and you are good to go . Note that if you download the
file and have it printed and saddle stitched at your average print shop it will run you about
$40 for full color. Thats twice the price of a books you can order Lulu.com (before
shipping) with a pro perfect binding and quality printing. The download option only
makes sense if you want to print the guide yourself. Make sure to get the proper page
order dialed and print double-sided if you want to saddle stitch it into a book. The biggest
advantage to the e-Book option is that it is cheap and disposable. Print it out, and if it gets
trashed, print another one. Just dont start selling the free DL or you will be cursed.
Full Color, Perfect or Coil Binding
Downloadable Guide (6 x 9format)

$20.00 + shipping
$3.00 (As close to free as Lulu allows)

Donations
Printed guidebooks are marked up slightly and any/all profits are considered donations
that go directly back into the upkeep of the crag. If you would like to donate steel
carabiners for anchors, please leave them in the crag bucket. It is also possible to make
tax deductible donations through COR (Central Oregon Rocks). Please contact me
through the lulu site if you are interested in making a donation. Thanks to everyone who
has already donated money, gear, time and energy into the crag especially Casey, Gavin,
Sarah, Pat, Marsha, Lucas, Haydar, Greg, Cody, Wally, Micha, Philip, Ken K!, Chris H., Chris G.,
Max, Thad, John, Nate, Jamie, Ann Marie, Michael, Colleen, Mike, Jack, Jesse, Tami, Coty,
Eric, Craig, Ben, Adrian, Joyce, Esther, Andy, my students, Redpoint Climbers Supply and
many others.
Look for postings at Redpoint in regard to trail work weekends, etc. See you out there.
Jeff

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If there is an

Emergency
Get the First Aid Kit out of the crag bucket
located at The Main Wall staging area.
If Medical attention is needed and
you cannot get back to your vehicle:
1. Call 911: You may need to get on top of the crag
for reception. Do not leave the injured person
alone unless it is absolutely necessary. If you
dont have a cell phone the farmhouse is about a
ten minute run. Access the top by wrapping
around the SW Corner and up the hillside. Follow
a faint private road directly on top of the hill to the
paved road, the house is on the right.
2. Transport: If you can safely move the injured
person, get them to the top of the crag and wait for
help. If it is at all questionable, stay put. Keep the
injured person warm, hydrated and as
comfortable as possible. Do not try and treat
injuries outside of your medical training zone.
Help will be there soon.

" 2010 JEFF WENGER.


All Rights Reserved
No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner without
written permission. Please use the contact information through Lulu.com.

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