CHEMEKETAN CLIMB PROSPECTUS

Mt St Helens “Retro Climb”

Climb Date: April 17-18, 2010 Leader: John Petrie

Route: Worm Flows/Swift Glacier Co-Leader:
Max. Elevation: 8,365’ Assistant(s): Gloria Petrie
Elevation Gain: 5,685’
Round Trip Distance: 12 Miles Climb Updates/Info, www.RhinoAscents.com
Incl. Climb Roster:
Chemeketan Rating: S1
Technical Difficulty: Glacier/Snow to 35 degrees, altitude, non-technical but strenuous due to elevation gain

The Climb:
Finally, the “Retro Climb” is here! The theme of this trip is to celebrate the history of climbing, Chemeketan style.
Wool pants, shirts, and skirts rule the day. If you have a Fedora, wear it! While Mt St Helens is a strenuous climb,
it’s also the perfect place to enjoy climbing in traditional mid-century style. We will hike in on Saturday and setup our
snow camp near tree line. Up early on Sunday, tag our summit, and glissade back to camp. We should be back to
the cars by mid-afternoon. If you haven’t climbed Mt St Helens before, you’re in for a treat!

Driving Directions/Climbing Permits:

We’ll leave Salem and head north on I-5 to Exit 21 (State Hwy 503) near Woodland, WA. Here we’ll travel east ~28
miles to the Loan Fir Resort in Cougar, WA, where we will sign in and pick up our hang tag team climbing permit. I
will pre-register our team and apply for individual permits online (required) once we know conditions are acceptable
and the climb is a “go”. The permit fee is $22 per climber. Once registered, we’ll continue on Hwy 503 (turns into
FSR 90) to FSR 83, where we’ll take a left and travel 9 miles to Marble Mountain Sno-Park. (Note: Do not follow the
sign to the “Climber’s Bivouac” off of Hwy 503).

Mt St Helens Climbing Page: http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/mount-st-helens/permit-system.shtml

Meeting Place: State Motor Pool Park & Ride, 1100 Airport Rd SE, Salem, Oregon 97301

Lone Fir Resort: 16806 Lewis River Rd., Cougar, Washington 98603. Ph: 360-238-5210

Route Description:
We’ll leave the trailhead (2,700’) and follow Swift Creek Trail 244 on easy grade to Chocolate Falls (3,800’), where the
trail crosses over to the west side of Swift Creek. We’ll continue our approach to timberline, where we will setup
camp (~4,050’). The next morning our route leads us north up the ridge and over to the vast slopes leading towards
the crater rim. The true summit (8,365’) is a short traverse along the rim. We’ll descend the climbing route.

Itinerary:

Date Time
Sat, April 17 12:00 pm Meet at State Motor Pool Park & Ride
2:00 Arrive Lone Fir Resort, grab permits, grab food here or stop at Subway on the way up
2:30 Arrive at Marble Mountain Sno-Park, start approach *Drivers Need Sno-Park Permit*
5:00 Arrive at tree line and setup camp (~4,050’)
Sun, April 18 6:00 am Onwards and upwards!
10:00 Arrive at Summit (8,365’)
1:00 pm Arrive back at camp, pack up, and head out
Grab a bite on the way back to Salem, distribute summit certificates

St Helens Prospectus 2009.doc - Page 1 of 2

Required Equipment Checklist:
Unless otherwise noted, the following equipment is required for participation on this climb. The checklist below lists
the minimum items you will need and should be used as a guide only. Each climber is responsible for their own gear.

Ten Essentials: Navigation - Map & Compass (GPS if available)

Sun Protection – Sunscreen, Lip Balm, and Sunglasses (Goggles – optional)
Insulation - Extra Clothing
Illumination - Headlamp w/ Extra Batteries
First-Aid Supplies
Fire - Fire Starter/Waterproof Matches/Lighter
Repair Kit & Tools – incl. Knife, Whistle
Nutrition - Extra Food
Hydration – Extra Water
Emergency Shelter - Emergency Tarp/Space Blanket/Bivouac Gear
Additional Items: Wool Cap/Sun Hat – think Fadora, Indiana Jones hat, or similar!
Bandana/Buff – dust mask recommended in case we get minor eruptions
Layered Clothing – No Cotton – think wool!
Gloves/Mittens + Extras
Waterproof Jacket/Pants – wool, baby, wool!
Glissade Shorts or other
Mountaineering Boots – Leather or Plastic + Gaiters
Crampons – Fit to Boots Prior to Climb
Ice Axe
Helmet
Snow Camping Gear – Tent, Stove (extra fuel), Water Filter, Winter Bag/Pad, etc
2-3 Liters of Water
Trekking Poles (optional) -- alpenstock!
Radios (optional) – set to 10/5 or 11/6 (TBD)
Snow Shovel (recommended)
Snow Shoes (optional but recommended)
Other Personal Items as Necessary

Team Gear: Radios, GPS, Snow Shovel(s), Wands

Reference/Maps:

Nelson, Jim, & Potterfield, Peter, Selected Climbs in the Cascades, (The Mountaineers, 1993), pp. 22-24

MAPS: USGS 7.5 minute series, Mt St Helens, WA; Green Trails, Mt St Helens

Emergency Contacts:
Skamania County Sheriffs Department, 509-427-9490; Mt Adams Ranger District, 509-395-3400; 911
Nancy Christensen 503-901-9834 (Gloria’s sister, Portland)

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS

1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident
or illness.

2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.

3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately
prepared for the climb.

Additional Comments:
Please notify the leader if you are NOT meeting the group at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride. We will be leaving at
12:15pm sharp.

In case of inclement weather, the final decision to cancel the climb will be made by Thursday, April 15, 2010, before
12:00pm. Our backup climb date TBD. Contact leader for further information. John Petrie 503-910-9041

St Helens Prospectus 2009.doc - Page 2 of 2