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Change-Makers.
The material basis
of sustainable fashion
p. 1
www.sustainability-lab.net
info@blumine.it
The research team:
Marco Ricchetti, sustainability-lab
Aurora Magni, sustainability-lab and Universit Cattaneo-LIUC
Emanuela Mora, Centro ModaCult, Universit Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Milano
Fabio Guenza, sustainability-lab
Alberto Saccavini, sustainability-lab
Karan Khurana, sustainability-lab
Draft
Milano, 18.06.2015
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution NoDerivatives 4.0 International
License.
You can copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format under the following
terms: You must give appropriate credit and provide a link to the original source, you may
not change or modify text data or charts.
p. 2
Note: further to the above listed companies Miroglio Group has participated in
the project. The text of the interview to Miroglio Group is still pending for revision
it will be included in the final version of the document.
p. 3
www.besani.eu
The area between Varese and Milan is marked by towns like Gallarate, Busto
Arsizio and Legnano, which until the 90's was one of the most important
European centers for cotton processing. To remind this are the great nineteenthcentury factories many of which are now reconverted into institutional buildings,
shopping malls and universities. But cotton in Lombardy is not just nostalgic
memory. It is still selected and carefully worked in companies that know how to
value fabrics and garments for the high end boutiques.
Besani srl well represents this reality living on small but innovative textile firms
which have addressed this crisis by pushing the accelerator on quality and
internationalization.
With its 30 employees and a turnover made 40% in China and the United States,
Besani srl designs and manufactures knitted fabrics in fine cottons for
major high-end sportswear brands. A production of 141,000 kg/year
become polo and t-shirts for tennis, sailing, golf or simply for everyday wear with
casual elegance. Silk was added to cotton as it further enhances fabrics
preciousness.
Besani srl was founded in the late sixties at the initiative of three contractors,
two of which today are still present in the company while the third was replaced
by the son of one of the founders, Mario Riva, today in his forties.
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www.canepa.it
Canepa is a major Italian fabric maker, it combines industrial organization with
artisan care in products design and customer relationships. Established in 1966
by the Canepa family which still is at the helm, it is now part of a group that has
its centre and most of the supply chain within the Como silk district.
One quarter of the over 700 employees consists of creative technicians who
design each year over 25,000 original designs. The activity covers the entire cycle
of creation, production and distribution of fabrics and textile accessories, for
both men and women, for the big international fashion brands. The group
develops and produces collections of accessories and clothing that distributes
under its own brand names.
Interview with Alfonso Saibene Canepa, Supply Chain & Sustainability Director
p. 7
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the requirements of our customers, often the requests are initially purely
theoretical. It is in the relationship with customers that, together, we
translate the theoretical requests into achievable goals, streamlining the
whole supply chain.
Sustainability is a journey and not an end point, what are the next steps
of your journey?
Sustainability in the fashion industry is still in a beginning stage: we covered
only the first few steps of a long journey. We are now addressing the real
issue, which is the innovation of green chemistry in particular in dyes and
textile auxiliaries. Until now the most careful and advanced textile
companies have been able to optimize, selecting in the processes for the
better, more sustainable chemicals on the market, but the path that can
lead us to have dyes and auxiliaries on the market in line with the
sustainability requirements is still long. The first problem we have to solve is
information: we must know what there is in the dyes and auxiliaries we buy.
We are still in a phase where the producers of chemicals ask us to just trust
their declaration that a product conforms to a sustainability protocol, in the
absence of chemical lab tests prooving their actual compliance. There is
demand for transparency from our customers but we buy chemicals in a
black box. Greater transparency from manufacturers of dyes and chemical
auxiliaries: this is today the crucial point! To solve this problem we need all
interested parties make their voices sound louder in the relationships with
the chemical industry giants, to make the changes happen.
p. 9
www.dienpi.com
Born from the initiative of three young entrepreneurs Dienpi is a company
dedicated to the research, graphic design and production of fashion labels and
tags for apparel made with always new techniques and materials: paper, cloth,
leather, eco-leather, jacron. The leather products are made exclusively in Italy
and all the labels have a lot of identification, to allow clients to track the batch of
leather from which they come from.
p. 10
First listening to the needs of our clients, among which there are big names
in the international fashion system and who in most cases have sustainable
production policies, often consequence of their commitment to
environmental campaigns, so to ensure the absence of hazardous
chemicals on labels is a priority. Our environmental policy is not only a
response to the demands of the fashion market that has become greener in
recent years, is a matter of corporate culture that we pursue with passion.
Designing a label is exciting, it is necessary to do just the style of the client
and of the collection in which it is intended, to choose the materials and
processes to lower environmental impact without compromising the desired
aesthetic effect. With surprise we realized that this environmnetal attention
allows us to get even more original effects. In other words ecodesign is an
enhancement of creativity not a constraint, it pushes you to consider
solutions and materials to which you would not have thought in designing a
standard product, with results stylistically interesting.
Pushing on creativity and research then, a rich archive of ideas and
suggestions, but also a rigorous organizational model.
Our products reflect all the quality standards required by current
regulations for workers protection and work ethic. This is achieved by
paying close attention to the materials used and the relationship with
suppliers. We favour sustainable raw materials such as recycled paper or
from renewable plantations, chrome-free leather, water-based inks, recycled
fabrics or with environmental certifications. Given that on a label there can
be up to 12 different materials and that we produce each year an average
of over 900 different types of labels, (a total of about 5 million of various
kinds of labels per year) to ensure the safety of finished products requires a
constant monitoring of materials and activities carried out internally as well
as those given to our suppliers. Since sustainability is not only respect for
the environment but also valuing the people who contribute to create a
product, Dienpi has initiated the process of compliance with all rules and
ethical conduct in order to obtain in 2014 the SA8000 certification.
Some specific sustainability project?
I would like to mention our etiECO line, labels made with leather from
Italian farms and tanned without chrome but with natural tannins. The
result is a washable label with a good degree of dimensional stability. The
collection Living Matter instead favours organic or recycled fibers, canvas,
handmade paper, wood, jacron and certified eco-leather. Even the colours
used to dye and print labels in this range are natural, with shades ranging
from beige to ecru, to dove to brown, to the range of avion. We play with
forms, overlays, folds and perforations of labels and hanging tags. Waste
due to die cutting become sophisticated basis for new accessories. We have
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www.lampo.eu
Giovanni Lanfranchi has an ancient history. It was established in the second half
of the 19th century by the initiative of a courageous technician in a button
factory in Brescia area who decided to open his own production unit and grab
the opportunities offered by the then in vogue and growing corozo market. He
lived the glories of the industrial revolution but also two world wars, the
restrictions of the autocratic Fascist period, then the economic boom, the growth
of prestige of Made in Italy to the most recent events that have changed the
profile of the fashion industry and pushed the accelerator on
internationalization.
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Itaclab. Collections
finishings
development
and
garments
www.itaclab.com
Itaclab is a perfect example of the hybrid nature of fashion industry where
creative skills and expertise on materials and manufacturing processes are
combined. The company is responsible for the design and development of
collections of everything related to jeans wear and the production of prototypes
and samples testing garments treatments and finishings. It belongs to Itac Group
owned by the Cossiri family, led today by the third generation of entrepreneurs.
p. 16
For any company like ours that operates exclusively Made in Italy and in full
respect of the laws and working contracts, attention to social sustainability
is a matter of fact, the Italian regulatory system regarding work and safety
is very advanced and stringent. Therefore we consider social sustainability a
logic and essential feature of our business. Our main focus is on the
environmental impacts of our work, particularly in regards to quantity and
quality of the water we use and reintroduce in the environment and energy
consumption. The reason is that these two elements, and water in
particular, are critical in our processes.
What were the impacts on processes?
As regards the processes, we have systematically and progressively
optimized systems and technologies to reduce the use of water and energy.
When the company was founded in 2009, we used about 300 liters of water
per garment, today we arrived at about 1/3, 100 liters; then the greater part
of our treatments were made at 60, with great use of energy to heat the
water, we are now on an average of 30, almost at room temperature. We
have also introduced new processes and materials, this year success is the
complete elimination of formaldehyde. Also in this case we went beyond the
law that allows its use below certain thresholds. We preferred to be more
radical and become formaldehyde-free.
And on business organization?
The first pillar on which we base our commitment to sustainability is the
role of our R&D and of the laboratory for chemical and physical analysis.
Our engineers are systematically testing products and chemical treatments
with lower impact to replace those with higher impact and less
technological. The laboratory systematically analyses the chemicals we use
to verify their conformity to the technical sheets and to our safety and
performance parameters. The use of any chemical in production is
conditioned by the laboratory green light. If a client asks us for special
treatment for which are necessary auxiliaries that do not fit our standard,
the laboratory does not give the green light, therefore we renounce to apply
the treatment. The second pillar is the stable relationship with our
chemicals suppliers. It is a clear policy, I would say a company's culture, we
maintain long-term relationships with suppliers, even beyond price
convenience, we think the first victim of the exasperated search of price and
price wars among suppliers, is the opportunity for collaboration. There is
need for partnership. We think that collaboration, ultimately, is beneficial.
In this way we establish a transparent relationship with suppliers
particularly in regards to information on chemical formulations. We
actually know what there is in the chemicals we use. We can also work with
p. 17
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www.italdenim.it
Italdenim is a Lombardy based company that designs and produces the fabric for
top global jeans brands. With an annual output of 5 million meters of fabric, it is
one of the leading companies in the European market of denim fabrics. Recently
reached the headlines for having signed -first in the world among denim
manufacturers- Detox Greenpeace campaign.
Each year more than 2 billion pairs of jeans are produced in the world
confirming that this garment is indispensable and irreplaceable. How
does the culture of sustainability fit in the denim market?
Right now we are experiencing an interesting phenomenon and I am not
referring only to the constant demand for denim by the fashion market.
While the digital culture seems at the center of every relationship and the
basis of self representation, there is an incresed attention from consumers
on the quality of what they buy. The tactile feel of a fabric, its production
history are regaining importance. To produce ecologically is a way to
answer to this request for authenticity providing consumers with beautiful
and performing fabrics that are also ecological and ethical.
What was the meaning of the Detox commitment for Italdenim?
The Detox commitment was an important fact in the history of Italdenim
and rewards an effort started several years ago. For some time now we
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www.itvdenim.com
ITV was established in Vicenza in 1972 thanks to the intuition and deep
knowledge of the textile sector of Romano Gnutti, still president of this family
run business, now at its third generation. In the 90s most of the production is
transferred in Abruzzi a region that found in the jeans production its own
industrial peculiarity. In an area of 24 thousand square meters ITV Denim
performs all stages of denim production: from spinning to cotton
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www.mantero.com
Mantero Seta has its roots in the land of the Como silk district where it was
established in 1902. In over 100 years of history, the family of the founder
Riccardo Mantero has steadily maintained its commitment in the ownership and
management of the company which is now run by the fourth generation of
family entrepreneurs.
The activity covers the entire cycle of creation, production and distribution of
fabrics and textile accessories for men and women. Customers are international
and include top global luxury and fashion brands, but also some fast fashion
leaders.
p. 25
How did it work for the company organization and your supply chain?
An essential step has been to engage everyone, every single worker, and
make the new standard pervasive in the company. We had to change our
concept of how chemicals contribute to the quality of the products as well
as our mindset about chemicals safety: it has to do with the vision of the
company and the quality of the product, it is not just about the bureaucratic
compliance to laws and norms. Aligning the entire company to this view is
the only way to actually reach it. In this context we have created a new unit
which has the task of monitoring and assessing all aspects of the
sustainable quality of our processes and products. Finally, this reflects also
in the relationships with our supply chain. We discovered hidden values,
which we had not perceived as yet, in some of our suppliers who had
already invested in innovative and cleaner processes and environmental
certifications. More in general, we have expanded the dialogue with our
suppliers and increased information exchange, thereby strengthening the
partnership. It was, we must admit, an unexpected but very interesting
effect, that has turned a problem into an opportunity.
Does sustainability pay off? What have been the results in terms of
business development?
We believe the demand for sustainability that comes from our customers is
a permanent factor. It is a component of the business model no modern
textile company can miss, a key to success in the international markets for
companies that focus on quality. Competitors unable to demonstrate a
serious commitment to sustainability will gradually be expelled from the
market. This perspective offers a competitive advantage to Italian and
European companies, over competitors located in countries whose sole
advantage is cost and where the regulatory framework for sustainability is
maintained weak. Our sustainability committment has delivered positive
results for our business, our customers have been able to measure our
effort and some of the brands most sensitive to sustainability have recently
begun to work with us because of this.
They say that sustainability is a journey and not an end point, what are
the next steps of your journey?
Our first short term goal is to consolidate the results obtained with the ban
of hazardous chemicals by publicly committing to the most ambitious and
advanced standards, the DETOX solution proposed by Greenpeace is the
one we are working on currently. The issue of clean and safe chemicals has
a particular value for Mantero, especially with regards to dyes. We think
colors as our core business, the printed colors is what makes our fabrics
unique. Our aim is to be number one and world leader in colors
p. 26
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www.radicigroup.com
Radici Group is a multinational company with deep roots in Italy, particularly in
the valleys surrounding Bergamo where it was established at the beginning of
1900. Today it has factories and sales offices in Europe, USA, South America, Asia
where, with over 3000 employees, conducts diverse operations and focuses in
the areas of chemicals, plastics, synthetic fibers and nonwovens. The textile
component production has applications in clothing, furnishings, automotive,
floorings, in technical textiles. Radici Group is among the 5 largest world
producers of polyamide fiber, also known as nylon.
The company has always been committed to research and technological
innovation and devotes significant resources to improve the performance of its
products from an environmental perspective.
Servalli,
marketing
director and
responsible
for
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www.attilioimperiali.it
Como is known as the Silk District, over the years has been challenging the
contamination of man-made fibers managing to combine tradition and
innovation, style and technical performance, aesthetic and research. This story
that tastes of past and future, is part of the Tessitura Attilio Imperiali of Lurate
Caccivio whose origins are rooted in the second half of the 19th century,
although the establishment of the company in its current form dates back in the
sixties.
At the beginning of his history, the production of Tessitura Inperiali was focused
on wedding and ceremony textiles. Growth has been rapid and in the following
years was created the department of footwear fabrics strengthening the offer of
fashion fabrics at 360 degrees. Today Tessitura Attilio Imperiali produces high
fashion fabrics for leading international brands, fabrics that range from clothing
to accessories, shoes and bags.
Interview with Giovanni Di Gristina, General Director
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Wash Italia.
finishings
Product
development
and
garments
www.washitalia.it
Wash Italia is an industrial laundry and dry house specialized in the treatment of
garments produced by major Italian and international brands. The company was
founded in 1986 by a group of local businessmen under the name Lavanderia
Italia snc. Growth is rapid and in 2003 with the entry of important shareholders it
becomes an inc. under the name Wash Italy. Over the years the industrial and
technological equipment have been expanded and upgraded. Also the number
of employees has increased, is now 60, and the network of suppliers who work
with us. The production capacity is over 20,000 pieces a day.
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