Effect of different materials on wicking property of the plated fabrics

Abstract
Cloths serve as barrier between environment and human body. It allows the transport of heat and
moisture out of the body to the environment. Thus provide the thermo-physiological comfort by
controlling the transportation of heat and moisture from body to the environment. Moisture
management is crucial for thermo-physiological comfort [1]. For thermo-physiological comfort it
is required to release sweat immediately from the body to the environment to reduce the skin
humidity. For moisture management double layered fabric with different combination of yarn on
outer and inner layer of the fabric are used[2]. The outer layer (in contact with environment) is
made with hydrophilic yarn while the inner layer (in contact with body) is made with
hydrophobic yarn. The function of inner layer is to transport and remove the sweat from the body
while that of outer layer is to spread and evaporate the sweat to the environment. Instead of using
double layer fabric, single layered plated fabric was used to perform the same function. Different
structures and combination of different hydrophilic and hydrophobic yarn were used in outer and
inner side of the fabric. It was concluded that for proper moisture management, the hydrophilic
yarn should be used on outer side of the fabric and hydrophobic yarn should be used on inner
side of the plated fabric.
Different researchers made plated fabric with the combination of natural fiber cotton on outer
side and synthetic fiber polyester, polypropylene and nylon in inner side.[3] But their moisture
management properties are not as higher as required in high exertions work load. Another
problem with these fabric is that their moisture spreading and evaporation speed is low. The
outer side of fabric takes much time to dry.
The aim of this study is to find the single layer plated fabric composition which will give
maximum sweat transportation with minimum time without any chemical treatment and have the
high spreading and evaporation speed. For this purpose two hydrophilic yarns (100% Cotton and
100% Modal) was used on outer side and synthetic yarn (Polyester and Micropolyester) were
used in inner side of the plated fabric.

It was found that by using a combination of modal (on outer side) and cool max (on inner side)
maximum moisture transportation was obtained. With this combination not only moisture
management but also air permeability and thermal insulation were also improved without extra
treatment. This fabric have much higher evaporation rate and low drying time.

Introduction
Wicking is the spontaneous movement of fluid through a porous substrate, along solid surfaces,
driven by capillary forces. It is an important property for fabrics used in sportswear, industrial
uniforms, and protective services (e.g. firefighters, police, and soldiers) due to its effects on
thermal and sensorial comfort (Simile & Beckham, 2012). Engineering of clothing and textile
products is essential to obtain physiological and psychological comfort and, more fundamentally,
to insure suitable physical conditions around our body for survival. The clothing comfort is
dependent upon the low stress mechanical, thermal and moisture transfer properties of the fabrics
(Uttam, Mukhopadhyay, & Ishtiaque, 2013). It is very important that body should keep
temperature and moisture balance according to different environmental conditions. Thermal
comfort is the satisfactory feel for the thermal conditions of the environment. Therefore, comfort
is based on fabric properties related to moisture management other than their thermal properties
(ner & Okur, 2013). In order to make the wearer feel comfortable, the fabric worn next to the
skin should have two important properties. The first property is to absorb the perspiration from
the skin surface, and the second property is to transfer the absorbed moisture into the
atmosphere. Diffusion and wicking are the two important moisture properties through which the
moisture is transferred to the atmosphere (Taylor, Patil, Kane, & Ramesh, 2009). Moisture
transport in textile materials directly affects the end-use performance of the products. The

behavior of the yarns and fabrics while in contact with liquid is an important indicator of the
comfort features of the textiles. The capillary movement of any liquid within the textile structure
is called as wicking. The wicking performance of the fabrics and clothing assemblies is
significantly affected by the wicking performance of the yarn. Many parameters, such as fibre
type, fibre composition, number of fibres in yarn cross-section, fibre configuration in yarn, yarn
structure, twist level and twist distribution determine the wicking performance of knitted fabrics
(Erdumlu & Saricam, 2013). Moisture vapor transmission through fabric takes place by three
processes; 1) sorption on the inner layer and desorption on outer layer by hydrophilic sites of the
fabric (Barnes & Holcombe, 1996), 2) diffusion of moisture vapor through pores of fabric
(Sachdeva, 2005), and 3) forced convection by moving air over fabric (Manshahia & Das, 2013).
Analysis of the transverse wicking characteristics of clothing fabric is also as important as that of
longitudinal wicking. The transfer of perspiration from the skin to the fabric involves movement
of liquid from one surface of the fabric to the other, then across the fabric thickness and finally in
the lateral or transverse direction of the fabric (Raja, Prakash, Ramakrishnan, & Koushik, 2014).
Many research workers have investigated on the various aspects of fabric comfort such as
behavior of different finishes, effect of fabric structure, yarn material and effect of yarn
structures. Das, Kothari, and Balaji reported the characteristics of cotton-shrinkable acrylic

Commented [SA1]: Researchers refrence

blended yarns and the fabrics produced from intimate blended ring spun yarns (Taylor,
Mukhopadhyay, Ishtiaque, & Uttam, 102AD). Das and Ishtiaque studied the comfort
characteristics of fabrics made of twist less and hollow yarn structures. Das and Mal and Das,
Zimniewska, and Mal reported the characteristics of cotton-shrinkable acrylic blended bulked
yarns and fabrics produced from different spinning technology yarns (Taylor, Wardiningsih, &
Troynikov, 2012). Ishtiaque, Das, and Singh and Das, Ishtiaque, and Singh reported the impacts

Commented [SA2]: What has been reported

of some of the spinning process parameters on the characteristics of micro-porous yarns and the
characteristics of fabrics made out of them. The fabric structural characteristics influence the
thermal transmission through insulation and permeability characteristics (Taylor, Jhanji, Gupta,
& Kothari, 2014). Das and Yadaw carried out a detailed study to understand the phenomenon of
moisture vapor transmission through bulked fabrics which may affect the heat stress and the
performance of wearer. Ozdil and Marmarali studied the effect of yarn properties on thermal
comfort characteristics of knitted fabrics (Raja et al., 2014).
Literature shows that both raw material and fabric structural parameters are important in
determining fabrics wicking and comfort properties of the fabrics. The aim of the current study is
to examine the effect of fabric structural parameters and yarn material on fabric liquid-moisture
transport properties. For this purpose, single jersey knitted fabrics of different stitch length and
yarn materials were produced and their wicking and moisture management properties were
compared.

Materials and methods

The materials used in this study of the wicking property of plated knitted fabrics were Modal
fibers, cotton, micro-polyester and polyester. By using these materials, four types of plated
knitted fabrics were produced. The four fabric samples were prepared in such a combination that
the hydrophilic yarns such as cotton and Modal appear on the technical face of the plated fabric
while hydrophobic yarns such as polyester and micro-polyester appear on the technical back of
the plated fabric. The yarn counts used in this study are,

Combed Cotton 30/1

Polyester 75 Den /36 f

Micro-Polyester - 75 Den /36 f

Modal - 75 Den /36 f

Fabric specifications of four types of samples are given in Table 1.

Table 1 Fabric specifications

Fabric
Front
Combed
Cotton
Combed
Cotton

GSM

Back

Stitch Length (cm)

Cotton/Modal

Polyester

Wales/cm Course/cm

Stitch Density
(Stitches/cm2)

Polyester

349

0.302

0.3

19.68

25.19

496

Micro
Polyester

293

0.316

0.284

17.32

23.22

402.17

Modal

Polyester

336

0.345

0.325

18.11

24.80

449

Modal

Micro
Polyester

283

0.32

0.3

16.92

24.41

413

These yarns were knit on a Single Jersey circular knitting machine of Dia/Gauge, 30/26 to
produce Plain structure of plated fabrics. The purpose of using hydrophobic fibers on the
technical back was to achieve the wicking of liquid water by capillary action and not to absorb
but to adsorb the water on the surface of the fibers. The plated fabric produced from the knitting
process has following specifications.
The tests performed in this study along with the international standards are given below.
1.

Fabric Areal density (ASTM)

2.

Air Permeability (ASTM-D737)

3.

Thickness (ASTM-D1777)

4.

Moisture Management Test (AATCC 195-2009)

5.

Pilling Test (ICI Pilling Box Test) (BS-5811)

Fabric areal density was measured by G.S.M cutter which cuts the fabric sample in circular
form and areal density of the sample was
Gram per unit area is mostly used to measure the weight of the fabric in a unit area. In this test,
the fabric swatches (dimensions) of four samples were taken to measure their GSM (grams per
square meter). Air permeability test (ASTM-D737) was used to measure the rate of air flow
perpendicular through the fabric under prescribed air pressure. The standard ASTM-D1777 for
thickness testing was used to find the thickness of textile fabrics. The fabric whose thickness is
to be measured is kept on a flat anvil and a circular pressure foot is pressed on it from the top
under a standard fixed load. The Dial indicator directly gives the Thickness in mm. Moisture
management standard (AATCC 195-2009) is used for the measurement and evaluation of liquid
moisture management properties of the textile fabric. The test measures the spreading speed of
water on top and bottom surfaces, its absorption and then evaluates the data to give the final
index% of liquid transportation in fabric. The results obtained from this test are based on the
water resistance, water repellency and water absorption characteristics of the fabric structure
including fabrics geometric and internal structure and the wicking characteristics of its fibers
and yarns. Pilling in fabric is produced due to the entangling of the protruded fibers. The
entangled balls are called Pills and they are more likely to produce in the fibers which have
high strength and less flexural rigidity. The principle of this test states that the specimens of
fabric are mounted on the polyurethane tube. The tube is then subjected in the pilling box which
rotates for a certain period of time. The abrasion of fabric with the walls of box protrude fibers
and cause fabric to pill. (BS-5811)
Results and Discussion
Moisture Management

Table 2 Moisture management test result of cotton/polyester fabric

Wetting Time
Top (sec)

Wetting
Time
Bottom
(sec)

cotton/polyester

4.286

cotton/micropolyester

4.276
4.677

Top
Absorption
Rate
(%/sec)

Bottom
Absorption
Rate
(%/sec)

Top
Max
Wetted
Radius
(mm)

Bottom
Max
Wetted
Radius
(mm)

Top
Spreading
Speed
(mm/sec)

Bottom
Spreading
Speed
(mm/sec)

Accumulative
one-way
transport
index(%)

OMMC

4.596

30.0235

44.0134

15

15

2.2406

2.1771

109.9288

0.3703

4.196

30.3385

41.437

15

20

2.4282

2.5813

107.6476

0.3943

4.436

21.357

60.6957

15

20

2.2557

2.5616

417.9632

0.771

3.715

15.5325

45.8963

15

20

2.4065

2.9897

484.749

0.7655

modal/polyester
Modal/micropolyester

4.276

The results given in the

Table 2 show that the absorption rate and wetting time of inner side (technical back) is less than

Wetting Time
Top (sec)

Wetting
Time
Bottom
(sec)

cotton/polyester

4.286

cotton/micropolyester

4.276
4.677

Top
Absorption
Rate
(%/sec)

Bottom
Absorption
Rate
(%/sec)

Top
Max
Wetted
Radius
(mm)

Bottom
Max
Wetted
Radius
(mm)

Top
Spreading
Speed
(mm/sec)

Bottom
Spreading
Speed
(mm/sec)

Accumulative
one-way
transport
index(%)

OMMC

4.596

30.0235

44.0134

15

15

2.2406

2.1771

109.9288

0.3703

4.196

30.3385

41.437

15

20

2.4282

2.5813

107.6476

0.3943

4.436

21.357

60.6957

15

20

2.2557

2.5616

417.9632

0.771

modal/polyester
Modal/micro4.276
3.715
15.5325
45.8963
15
20
2.4065
2.9897
484.749
polyester
that of the outer side (technical face). The possible reason behind this behavior is that the
polyester is a hydrophobic fiber and have a very little moisture regain of 0.4% while cotton
(hydrophilic in nature) have moisture regain of 8.5%. Therefore, the absorbency rate of outer
side is higher than that of inner side. The difference is also visible in wetting time and spreading
speed. The wetting time of polyester is less because the water is not absorbed in the polymeric
structure but it is adsorbed on surface and spreads through capillary action. On the other hand,

0.7655

cotton is more absorbent due to which water is absorbed in its polymeric structure and wetting
time is increased for the same area as compared to the given area of polyester. The polymeric
structure of the polyester and its narrow paths wicks the water away to the cotton surface where
it is absorbed and then dried. The accumulative one way transport index % show the value of
fabrics ability to transport water from surface to the other in a specific time. (explain please)
The results given in the shows that the spreading speed of water on micro-polyester is less than
that of combed cotton. It is because of the reason that the wicking action of the micro-polyester
is more due to the narrow spaces and high surface energy.
The results of this table shows that the Modal have high absorption rate with less wetting rate. It
makes it an excellent alternative of the cotton in terms of absorbency. Similarly, Modal have
high spreading rate, its combination with polyester makes it an excellent wicking and absorption
machine for sweat. The polyester with high surface energy and less diameter wicks the water and
transfer it to Modal surface where it is quickly absorbed and spread for the evaporation.
The testing results of this single jersey plated fabric depicts the fabrics tendency to transport the
water. This combination of Modal and Micro Polyester has highest accumulative one way
transport Index (%) among all the other plated fabrics used in this study. The reason lies in the
unique properties of Micro polyester and Modal. The narrow channels in the micro polyester
structure reduce the wicking time and quickly transfers the water from skin to outer surface
where Modal quickly absorbs the water and spreads it to be evaporated.
Air permeability
Table 6. Air permeability results
Pressure
(Pa)

Fabric

Temp
(oC)

Front

Back

Combed
Cotton

Polyester

100

31.1

Combed
Cotton

Micro
Polyester

100

31.1

Humidity
(%)

Air Permeability
(mm/sec)
Face

Back

Mean

54

57.8

59.9

59

54

56.9

60.5

59

Modal

Polyester

100

31.1

54

113

102

108

Modal

Micro
Polyester

100

31.1

54

90

91.4

91

The above table shows that the air permeability of the plated fabric having Modal and Polyester
has highest air permeability value which makes it exceptional breathable as compare to other

Fabric

Weight Applied
(ounces)

Thickness (mm)

Face

Back

Combed Cotton

Polyester

8.6

0.76

Combed Cotton

Micro Polyester

8.6

0.78

plated fabrics.

Thickness
Table 7 Thickness results

Modal

Polyester

8.6

0.78

Modal

Micro Polyester

8.6

0.8

The table shows that the thickness of the fabric with modal and micro polyester is higher than
other fabrics with the same application of load. This is because of the air particles present in the
fabric with resist to further compression.

Pilling
Table 8 Pilling results

Time in ICI
Pilling Box

Fabric
Front

Back

Combed
Cotton

Polyester

Combed
Cotton

Pilling (Grading)
Face

Back

4 Hours

1 (Very Severe
Pilling)

2 (Severe Pilling)

Micro
Polyester

4 Hours

4 (Slight Pilling)

4 (Slight Pilling)

Modal

Polyester

4 Hours

1 (Very Severe
Pilling)

1 (Very Severe
Pilling)

Modal

Micro
Polyester

4 Hours

5 (No Pilling)

5 (No Pilling)

The pilling results of all the fabrics shows that modal fabric with micro polyester combination
has highest resistance to pilling with same duration. With make the Modal fabric with micro
polyester an excellent fabric.

Conclusions
It is concluded from this study that wicking properties of plated fabrics depends upon the
material used on plating side of the fabric. More the hydrophobicity of the material more will the
wicking properties. Also finer the fibers more will be the surface area and moisture will be
transported easily. The fabric made by using modal on front and micro polyester show better
moisture management properties. The moisture evaporation rate of fabric with this combination
is much higher than other fabrics with different combination given in the list.

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