Books by Author

Designer Birdhouses 20 Upscale Homes for Sophisticated Birds (2008)

Architectural Birdhouses
Richard T. Banks

If you can build a box, you can build a Great Birdhouse

Text, Photography, Illustrations, Book and Cover Design 2012

Richard T. Banks
All rights reserved

The written instructions, photographs, designs, patterns, and projects

in this book are intended for the personal use of the reader and may
be reproduced for that purpose only. Any other use, especially
commercial use, is forbidden under law without written permission of
the copyright holder.
Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this
book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools, and
individual skills, the author and publisher cannot be responsible for
any injuries, losses, and other damages that may result from the use of
the information in this book.
If you have any questions or comments about this book please contact:
Richard T. Banks: rtbarch@centurylink.net.
The designs illustrated in this book were made with power tools.
Should you attempt to duplicate any of the techniques described you
are encouraged to wear protective eyeglasses and take all necessary
safety precautions. We cannot accept liability for any damage or
injury the reader might incur.

Architectural Editions
Pinehurst, North Carolina

Dedication
For my wife Marilyn, for her endurance, compassion, and patience
when all she could see was the back of my head.

Building a Birdhouse
Start with a boxadd some enhancementsa dab of paint

and you have a Beautiful Birdhouse!

Contents
Introduction 9
1 Getting Started 12
2 Building the Basic Box 25
3 Beyond the Basic Box 39
4 The Projects 50
Pieces and Features 52
Features and Patterns 56
Features and Stripes 60
Mix and Match 64
Lattice House 68
Lattice and Brackets 72
Board and Batten Shingle House 76
Your Choice 82
Roosting Box 86
Sticks and Blocks 92
Paddle House 96
Recycled Triangles 100
Sponge and Stencil 104
Pinstripes 108
Three in One 112
The Temple 118
Swing Low, Swing Softly 124
Acorn House 128
Keyhole House 132
Fish or Fowl 136
5 After You Build It 140
6 Display 153
Author's Biography 161
Metric Equivalents 163

Introduction

I am not a bird expert I leave that to the ornithologists. I am an architect with a fondness for birds
and a love for woodworking. Considering my background, it is not much of a stretch to go from
building for people to building for birds. However, I am getting ahead of my story and to tell you
how it all began, I have to go back several years to a particular morning just before Christmas.
Each year I make my wife a gift for Christmas and one for her birthday in January. With the two
events so close together, it is a challenge to come up with new ideas each year. So there I was, a
week before Christmas without a clue as to what to make. One morning, while mindlessly gazing
out the window at our garden, the idea hit me - Why not a birdhouse?

It seemed like the perfect gift. My wife is an avid gardener who loves to "play in the dirt", and
what better way to show my appreciation than with a gift for her garden. She loved the new
birdhouse, and so the story goes, the rest is history. Well, not quite . As her garden grew, so did the
number of birdhouses. Before I knew it, I was asked to make more for my adoring public. Now
the original houses were figments of my imagination; once made, difficult to duplicate. To keep up
with the unexpected demand, I had to find a way to simplify my design and building process, while
creating nesting boxes that were attractive and well constructed.
To that end, I came up with the concept of the basic box a concept we will explore throughout
this book. By varying this theme and adding simple embellishments, I was able to create a number
of distinctive designs that I could readily duplicate. The idea worked out so well that it led me in
another direction. With the help of my eldest son, a mom and pop commercial website business
was born, featuring several nesting box editions to suit a variety of tastes.
www.architecturaleditions.com
As stories go, one chapter leads to another. In 2008, I wrote and illustrated a very successful
birdhouse book, Designer Birdhouses: 20 upscale Homes for Sophisticated Birds, published by
a well respected "How To" book publisher. Although the book was critically acclaimed for its
unique designs, detailed instructions, and informative photography, it is now out of print and
considered a collectible. You still might find a copy on Amazon or some used book websites,
however you may find price prohibitive. But, that's not the end of the story. After receiving many
emails, letters, and phone calls from birdhouse building enthusiasts inquiring whether the book
would be reprinted, I decided to self-publish this current and expanded edition. This edition
contains much of the information presented in the original book with added sections on what to do

after you build your birdhouse and considerations for indoor and outdoor display. In addition, I
have simplified the how-to instructions, allowing the reader to concentrate on the graphic
illustrations. You know the theory a picture says a thousand words. I have also de-emphasized
the use of heavy-duty power tools so the novice builder will not be intimidated, and to this end, I
explain how to do many tasks with just hand tools.
Through the process of building birdhouses and writing about them, I learned more about birds and
their quest for survival. However, I became aware of something else something about myself.
Most non-celebrity authors write to share what they know, and not for the meager financial returns
received for the time and effort it takes to produce a book. It is for that reason, and the wonderful
response I received from so many people, that I decided to reprint this edition and make it
available to the public.
As an architect, I continue to be acutely aware of the threat to our environment from poorly planned
developments and unrelenting urban sprawl, and with it, the desecration of natural breeding
habitats for cavity-nesting birds. I started my own personal crusade by encouraging others to build
birdhouses, and in so doing, I took notice of what the marketplace had to offer. For the most part
products were poorly designed, shoddily constructed, and would not last a season. I was
determined to show others how to design and build a better birdhouse - the premise for the original
book, and the premise for this edition as well.
The concept of this book, Architectural Birdhouses, is based on geometric relationships where
you start with a basic box and add related components consistent with the geometry of the box to
form new relationships. The parts make up the whole, and the whole becomes the some of the parts.
In this book, you will see this concept unfold in a natural progression with each chapter building on
the one that precedes it. In Section 1, Getting Started we will start with the basic tools and
materials you will need to accomplish five basic tasks measuring, cutting, drilling, fastening, and
finishing. Emphasis is placed on basic hand tools and corded hand tools. Section 2, Building the
Basic Box, is a how-to section that shows you how to accomplish the various tasks needed to build
the basic box. It stresses how to use the tools and materials of Section 1 for layout, cutting, drilling,
and making joints, with tips on assembly and finishing. Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box is what I
refer to as the fun section. It introduces you to the three variations of the basic box concept, the use
of enhancements; purchased items, templates, and handmade items you can fashion for changing
shapes and features.

In Section 4, The Projects I will show you how to use the information from all the previous
sections to make a variety of projects 20 in all, based on the three variations of the basic box.
Some projects are more difficult than others, and some, kids can make, with a little help from mom
and dad. All the projects include detailed diagrams, instructions, and photographs of the completed
project to help you visualize how they are made.
Section 5, After You Build It, is a new illustrated section that covers the subject of attracting
birds, their habitat, nest box placement and support, security, housekeeping, and maintenance. This
section will help you keep your creation safe and healthy for birds, and serviceable for many years
to come. In the book's final section, Section 6, Display we will explore ways to display your
birdhouses for artistic effect both outdoors and indoors using photographs taken at our home and
property in Pinehurst, North Carolina.
From my perspective, the object of this book is not to overwhelm you with projects too difficult to
build, but provide ones you can actually achieve based on your individual skill level. From there I
hope to inspire you to go on and explore the depths of your own imagination, using this book as a
starting point. The object of my endeavor is quite simple,

it is not he who has done the best; it is he who suggests the

most, he, not all whose meaning is at first obvious, and who leaves
you much to desire , to explain, to study ;much to complete in your
turn
Charles Augustin Saint-Beuve (1804-1869)

1 Getting Started

uilding a birdhouse is not exactly rocket science, and you do not need a workshop
equipped with expensive tools, and hard-to-find materials to be successful. However,
some of the birdhouses in this book do require better than average skills, and are best
accomplished with power tools.

Nonetheless, even for the novice there are projects in this book that can be achieved with
surprising results, with just a little time, patience, and basic manual skills. The good news is, very
few corded tools are required for getting started and those that you need, you probably have around
the house, or can be borrowed from a friend. With a decent set of hand tools and some useful
accessories, you can be well on your way to building some creditable birdhouses.
Tools and Materials

The tools and materials for making the projects in this book fall into five basic categories
measuring, cutting, drilling, fastening, and finishing. They consist of two groups hand tools and
power tools, with power tools further divided into hand held or stationary bench tools. For the
novice builder I recommend using basic handheld tools consistent with your skill level. For the
seasoned builder, tool selection choice is a matter of judgment based on personal experience.
Within each of the five basic categories I will describe some of the tools that will help you achieve
each of the five basic tasks. For instance, on some projects, you can cut wood with a standard
handsaw, powered circular saw, jigsaw or table saw. The choice is yours with safety being your
primary concern. All the projects in this book can be built with hand tools. However, for the more
difficult projects some tasks would be labor intensive and are better accomplished with
electrically powered tools for speed and efficiently. In all cases, the handheld electric drill is
almost an essential. You will need it for drilling various birdhouse holes, making pilot holes for
screws, and driving screws with the proper accessory drill bit.
I build birdhouses for sale and use a combination of hand held powered tools as well as bench
tools for accuracy and expediency, but I still reach for a simple hand tool when the occasion
demands it. Nonetheless, I do not have a high-powered shop just a few serviceable powered
bench tools; a drill press, table saw and scroll saw. For purposes of assembly, I use a pneumatic
nail gun that drives and countersinks nails with a pull of the trigger. It is fast, accurate and a real
time saver. Whatever tools you decide to use, choose those that you are most comfortable with and
that can do the job efficiently. Above all, respect the tool you are using, and use it for its intended
purpose. Do not expect a tool to accomplish a task it was not designed to perform.

Measuring

For measuring and layout work, a tape measure and a combination square are very useful. The
typical combination square is 12 inches long and suitable for laying out cross cut lines and 45degree angles. The body of the square slides along the blade and can be set at any point with a
thumbscrew for setting accurate measurements. The square's body usually incorporates a small
bubble level and a scratch awl that can be used for marking your work. The blade portion of the
combination square can be removed and used as a straightedge or ruler. A 25-foot tape measure is
handy for measuring and laying out longer stock. For angles of 30 and 60 degrees a simple 30/60
drafting triangle will do. For drawing circles and circle segments, all you need is an inexpensive
adjustable pencil compass.
Cutting
For straight cuts, a standard crosscut or ripsaw will do the job. A crosscut saw, as the name
implies, is a hand tool used to cut across wood grain. It usually has five to ten teeth per inch to
produce a smooth cut. A jigsaw, also known as a saber saw, is a great portable power tool for a
beginner. It will cut wood faster and more efficiently than a handsaw, and its adjustable guide can
be tilted for cutting miters and bevels. The jigsaw uses a 4-inch blade driven in an up-and-down or
reciprocating motion. This tool accommodates a variety of blade designs for cutting wood, metal,
plastic, and PVC. With the appropriate blade, you can cut curves, scrolls, circles
and make pocket cuts in wood with or without a pilot hole. You can also cut curves and circles
with a coping saw or fret saw; both saws use very thin blades for fine cutting which are secured
with pins at each end of the saw, making blade changing simple and fast.

Drilling
In the process of building birdhouses, drilling is one of the more important tasks you will
undertake. You actually want to leave holes in your work to allow birds to get in and out, air to
flow through for ventilation, and excess water to drain freely. The cordless or corded hand drill is
probably the one tool found in most households, and for good reason. With the proper accessories,
you can use it to drill pilot holes for other tools, fasten screws, cut out circles with an accessory
device, and bore holes of various sizes. The most convenient type to use is a 3/8 inch corded
variable speed reversible drill with a keyless chuck for removal and tightening accessories.

Drill Bits
For building the projects in this book, you will need a couple of drill bits and a hole saw. I
recommend a 1-1/2 inch Spade Bit for drilling the most common birdhouse entry holes. A 1/2 inch
spade bit is adequate for making air holes. Spade bits are so named for their flat, spade-like shape.
They have a very sharp, pointed tip for easy centering, however the holes cut with a spade bit can
be rather rough, which is fine so don't worry about it, as it makes entry holes that are easier for
birds to grip. A 1/4 inch Brad Point Bit is handy for drilling drainage holes in the bottom of your

nesting box. A brad-point bit is really a modified twist drill with a sharp center point that keeps the
bit from wandering and side spurs that cut wood fibers cleanly. For drilling smaller holes in wood,
these bits are excellent. If you intend to use screws as a fastening device, choose a small diameter
drill bit somewhat smaller than the screw you are using, for making pilot holes prior to driving
screws. You will notice that the majority of projects in this book have two entry holes forming two
duplicate fronts. I decided upon this method for three reasons:
It allows a bird a means of escape from predators.
It allows a birdhouse to be oriented in a direction best suited to the environment and
most pleasing to the viewer.
It allows your creative effort to be viewed from any angle and to be placed in a variety
of settings, indoors or outdoors.
Hole-Saws
Hole- saws are a combination saw and drill bit. They are available in a wide range of diameters;
sold singly or as multiples in sets. As the name implies, hole-saws have teeth like a saw and are
useful for cutting large diameter holes. With a multiple blade hole-saw set, you can combine two
cutters around the plunging bit, and cut a donut-shaped wooden circle with an entry hole all in one
operation. For our purposes, I call this wood cutout a predator guard. However, multiple blade
hole-saws are not easy to come by. As an alternate to making a predator guard in one operation,
you can use a 3-inch diameter hole-saw for the outer circle and a 1-1/2 inch spade bit to drill the
inner circle.
Fastening
Once you have measured, cut, and drilled the basic pieces for your birdhouse, now is the time to
put it all together. In assembling your birdhouse, there is nothing more critical then getting all the
pieces to line up properly for gluing and nailing. I use a bench hook to assemble most of the
birdhouses I make. It is a great little device for aligning and squaring up the four pieces of your
basic box by just using hand pressure while the glue is setting up. I mention this device for those of
you who will make more than one project; it is an effective aid for "getting it straight" and a real
time saver. It consists of a 12-inch square piece of medium density fiberboard (MDF) with two 1 x
3 inch cleats glued and nailed to the top surface at a true 90-degree angle. A front cleat is attached
to the underside of the MDF and acts as a hook, overlapping the top of your counter or workbench.

Clamps
Who could not use another set of hands? That is exactly what clamps are, additional help in holding
pieces steady while you are joining parts together, especially if you are only making a single
project. A pair of medium size Quick-Grip throat clamps is about all you need for the small
projects in this book. These clamps are capable of exerting a high concentrated force over a limited
surface by squeezing the handle with just one hand while your free hand is used to steady your
work. What could be simpler?

Nails, Hammer and Nail Set

Nails, together with waterproof glue, make an excellent choice for fastening the pieces of your nest
box together. There are over 100 varieties of nails you can purchase, but for birdhouse building, I
suggest the 1-1/2-inch long casing nail. These nails are a heavier version of the standard finishing
nail, and have a small indented head for countersinking with a nail set. You do not have to
countersink driven nails, but if you are like me, doing so makes a neater job and avoids rust stains.
Of course, filling the holes left behind is an added task but it sure makes for better workmanship.
For attaching small moldings and trim you can select small, thin nails called brads, however the
waterproof glue I recommend usually does the trick without nailing and it avoids splitting thinner,
delicate wood pieces. Whatever type of nail you use, your choice will depend on its application.
Left exposed, galvanized and other coated nails can be compromised by hammering. On the other
hand, if you are using redwood or western red cedar, you will want to use stainless steel nails, as
the tannic acid in these wood species will cause unsightly staining if you use galvanized nails. A
medium sized hammer will work just fine. For delicate work just use less force when driving

smaller nails.

Screws
If you live in a climate subject to extreme weather conditions and heavy snows, you cannot beat
screws for fastening reliability. And if you are using redwood or cedar, stainless steel screws
should be your screw of choice. Above all, do not use drywall screws. These bugle flaredheaded screws are designed for bearing against paper-faced drywall. They do not have the strength
or capability of screws intended for fastening other materials.

g
If you want to use screws for birdhouse building, I recommend the trim head screw. It resembles a
finishing nail, but comes with a square slot in the top. The screw has a trumpet-shaped head and
extremely sharp point that allows the screw to countersink itself as it is being driven; it is a real
time saver with strong holding power. The head of the screw requires a square driver bit that seats
firmly in the screw head to avoid stripping and spin out," and a lot of unnecessary aggravation.
Another type of screw you will require is a standard 1-1/2-inch, #8 pan head Phillips wood screw
for securing the wood base to your nesting box to allow for easy removal for maintenance. For best
results in driving screws, you can obtain the appropriate driver bits for your electric drill.
Glues, Adhesive and Wood Filler
Of the many types of glue on the market, I have found Titebond III Ultimate wood glue yields the
best results when used with nails or screws. It is waterproof, extremely strong and cleans up with
water. It can be sanded and painted and offers a longer assembly time than its predecessor
Titebond II. Although I prefer the number three version, Titebond II is also a very good product. It
cost less than Titebond III; remains strong over gaps less than 1/32 nd of an inch, and is water
resistant but not waterproof. Both glues are non-toxic, and for my money, you cannot go wrong with

either choice, but for the best exterior performance, I suggest you try Titebond III. Liquid Nails is a
name brand construction adhesive used to join dissimilar materials like metal to wood. It is also
very useful for adhering small trim pieces and moldings. It can be purchased in a handy squeeze
tube for small projects. The adhesive is fast bonding, permanent, weather resistant, sandable, and
paintable. Liquid nails works in areas where a hammer and nails cannot. Elmer's Carpenter's
Interior/Exterior Wood Filler is a very good product for repairing dents, scratches, and gouges in
wood surfaces and for filling countersunk nail and screw holes. When dry it can be sanded to a
smooth, flat surface for painting. It can be purchased in a squeezable tube or various sized
containers.

Sandpaper and Sanding Blocks

Sandpaper is useful, but birdhouses do not really need a lot of sanding. A couple of grades of
garnet sandpaper are about all you need fine (180-150), medium (120-80) and coarse (60-50).
You can wrap a piece of sandpaper around a dowel for circular sanding, or around a wood block
for straight, flatwork. I assure you, birds will not love you any more for a finely sanded box or one
that is just a little rough they will never know the difference.
Finishing
As a final finish, to protect and help preserve your birdhouse, you can apply paint or stain to suit
your personal taste, or just leave your project natural, coated with a couple of coats of wood sealer
or clear polyurethane. If you decide on color, there are several prevailing opinions regarding its
use. Some purists advocate leaving the wood in its natural state. I do not. Other folks favor muted

colors. They claim that birds shy away from bright colors. I disagree. According to the National
Bird Feeding Society, The color of the house probably has little influence on birds choosing it.
Proper entrance dimensions are more important. We have bright colored birdhouses on our
property and every season they are occupied by cavity nesters. The choice to paint, stain, or leave
your birdhouse natural is up to you. The sheer number of surface finishes available is staggering,
and where a special finish or technique is suggested for a project in this book, I will explain the
technique for that specific project.
Paint, Brushes and Masking Tape
As far as finishes go, paint is still the most popular choice. Paint is user friendly and an excellent
choice for exterior exposure. Latex paints are more flexible and breathable than oil-based paints,
allowing moisture to escape and withstand the inevitable shrinking and swelling of wood. If you
decide to work with stains, I have found that solid stains are more penetrating than transparent or
semi-transparent varieties. In the original edition of this book, I suggested using a primer undercoat
with artist's acrylic paint as a finish coat. At the recommendation of one of my readers, I tried one
of the combination primer and paint in one-application varieties. To my surprise, I was very
pleased with the results. I now use BEHR Premium Plus Ultra interior/exterior paint in one.
Instead of buying more paint than you need, you can purchase the 7-ounce sample size, or
mismatched rejects for less than a dollar. You have your choice of a full range of colors available
through BEHR's computerized color matching system. The paint is 100% acrylic latex; resists
peeling, blistering, fading, and mildew growth, providing a washable finish which can be easily
cleaned to remove stains and dirt. Clean up is simple with soap and water. Applying paint to raw
wood is very hard on the bristles of a brush. I suggest you use synthetic nylon/ polyester brushes in
three sizes -1-inch flat for large surfaces, a medium size pointed brush for details, and an" edger"
brush for painting those hard to get at surface transitions. Scotch Blue Painters Tape is very
helpful for masking colors and it will speed up your painting time. Regular masking tape or inferior
brands of painter's tape are not as effective.

Heavy- Duty Power Tools

I have purposely played down the use of heavy-duty power tools to encourage people of various
skills to try their hand at some of the projects in this book, and to explore their own creativity. For
the more seasoned woodworker I do not have to tell you about the speed, precision, and versatility
of heavy-duty power tools. As a commercial birdhouse builder, I would not be in business very
long without them. In my shop, I rely on three bench-type tools: table saw, drill press and scroll
saw. For fastening, I use a pneumatic nail gun that drives interchangeable sized nails with speed
and precision. However, even with some "shop mates" I still depend on many of the hand tools and
accessories I recommend. Telling people what to do and what tools to use is always difficult
because you have no way of knowing the skills and tool availability of your audience. I am well
aware, of the very talented people out there who do not need my advice on the safe use of power
tools. They realize the damage they can cause if used improperly.

A Safe Workspace
People who see my workshop are surprised at how meager it is. It is really quite simple but very
serviceable. My shop measures 10 feet wide by 14 feet long with a center aisle and counters on
each side. With the exception of my base-mounted table saw, my bench power tools sit on the
counter, mounted on 3/4-inch wood bases for mobility. When needed, I just slide the selected

power tool down the counter and clamp it in place at a convenient location. When not in use, I slide
all the power tools to one side, freeing precious counter space for other tasks. My hand tools and
accessories are hung on the wall or stored on shelves, with my portable powered tools tucked
away below the counter.
Do you need a shop to build a few birdhouses certainly not? You will require a place to work.
The place you choose should be clean and uncluttered, preferably away from other activities,
especially food preparation areas. You should have grounded power outlets at your disposal for
any corded electrical tools you may use, and adequate counter space for layout, measuring and
assembly. All your tools and equipment should be thought out ahead of time, placed well at hand
and within easy reach. Above all, make sure you have excellent lighting conditions, whether it is
overhead, or task lighting. Wherever you work, and whatever tools you use, safety should always
be a first and foremost consideration.
Dress properly: do not wear loose clothing or jewelry that can be caught up in moving
parts.
Wear safety goggles and a dust mask whenever you are cutting or drilling pieces of
wood that could create chips, splinters, and considerable sawdust.
If you use loud power tools, like a table saw, use ear protection.
Keep your work area clean and well swept, with no loose cords to slip on.
Have a first aid kit handy and a phone nearby for emergencies.
It all comes down to a combination of common sense and alertness. If it looks and feels wrong, it
probably is. Woodworking is a hobby that involves sharp objects, often spinning at high speeds.
The possible cost of making a mistake is so great that taking undue risks is not worth the injury you
could sustain.
Wood
Nesting boxes can be made from a variety of materials, but wood is still king. It is a good insulator,
readily available, easily worked with hand or power tools, and is akin to a birds natural habitat.
However, wood has its shortcomings. Being a natural material, it absorbs and releases moisture
that leads to distortion. The art of working with wood is to anticipate moisture problems to
minimize dimensional changes. Surface coatings are one defense, but no coating is entirely
moisture proof. To get the best service from wood you must take care in selecting, storing, and

working with it.

Selecting Wood
How a board is fabricated has a bearing on its stability. Boards purchased from your local
lumberyard or home improvement store are generally plain-sawn, with grain lines running
horizontally to the width of the board. Even though the boards are kiln-dried, they still have a
tendency to swell, shrink, cup, and twist. Just hold a board up to your eye, look down its length,
and you will see what I mean. If possible, try to purchase quarter-sawn boards, with the grain lines
running vertical to the end of the board. Quarter-sawn boards offer better resistance to warping and
are dimensionally more stable. If available, seek out tight-grained boards instead of the wide grain
type, they are less prone to cupping and warping. Lumber is graded according to its surface
appearance and thickness. For birdhouse construction, you will be using boards that are less than 2
inches thick, graded on a diminishing scale based on surface imperfections. The scale is quite
broad but your selection should range from Select C grade to No.1 Common, or even as low as a
No.3 Common. Do not always buy the most expensive board. Consider what your finish will be
and what will show. If you intend to finish your birdhouse with paint or a solid stain, imperfections
in the wood will be less apparent. Your geographical location, relative to where a wood is grown
and milled, will have a bearing on its availability and cost. For durability, I suggest you choose
wood with an actual thickness of no less than 3/4-inch nominally referred to as 1-inch thick at
your point of purchase.
Wood Sizes
When selecting a specific board size, remember that boards are sold according to their nominal
dimension. The actual size is the dimension it comes from the mill after it is surfaced. For example,
a standard 2 x 4 is actually 1-1/2 inches x 3-1/2 inches. The following chart is a handy reference
for selecting the right board size. In the Projects Section of this book, I have included cutting lists
indicating the board sizes you will need to complete a project and to help you make the fewest cuts
with the least waste. The list, Standard Dimensions of Softwood Boards will aid you in selecting
the right board size. The nominal dimension is the way boards are listed at your place of purchase.
The surfaced size is the actual thickness of the board. Although not listed, another handy lumber
dimension to remember is the standard 4 x 4 with an actual dimension of 3-1/2 inches square. A 4 x
4 is actually a post and ideal for mounting all the birdhouses in this book.

Wood Species
In North America the principal softwoods used for making nesting boxes are cedar, cypress,
Douglas fir, pine, redwood and poplar; although
poplar is technically a hardwood. Each species has different characteristics. Some are
dimensionally more stable and better at resisting rot and insect damage.
Cedar
There are six common species of cedar. Western Red Cedar is the most popular for birdhouses. It
is native to the northwestern United States, strong, lightweight, and easy to work, with very low
shrinkage. It also holds paint well and is highly resistant to decay, but it can be expensive and has a
tendency to split and splinter. Like Redwood, cedar bleeds tannins, an acid within the wood that
makes painting and fasteners problematic. Tannins can appear as dark stains around fasteners and
can even show through paint.

Dimensions of Softwood Boards

(All dimensions are in inches)

1x1
1x2
1x4
1x6
1x8
1 x 10
1 x 12

Nominal Size
3/4 x 3/4
3/4 x 1-1/2
3/4 x 3-1/2
3/4 x 5-1/2
3/4 x 7-1/2
3/4 x 9-1/4
3/4 x 11-1/4

Surfaced Size (actual)

Cypress
Cypress is primarily found in the southeast region of the United States. It is not an easy wood to
come by, and one that is distinguished by decay pockets known as pecks. However, it is highly
resistant to decay, exhibits moderate shrinkage, and holds paint well. On the down side, it is
expensive and resists nailing.
Douglas fir

Grown in the Pacific Northwest, Douglas fir is a strong, hard, heavy wood that holds paint
extremely well; is moderately priced, but not readily available outside of the region where it is
grown.
Pine
Pine is readily available, economical and has many applications. It is grown in various parts of
North America in seven different species. Southern Pine usually includes long leaf, short leaf, and
loblolly, all of which are amply available in the southeast. Pine is easy to work, lightweight, and
soft. It holds paint well; is relatively inexpensive and a good choice for nesting boxes, even though
it is prone to warping. Pine and cedar, are the two woods commonly available at your local home
improvement store.
Redwood
Like Douglas fir, redwood is primarily grown in the Pacific coast region. It is a straight grain
wood, easily worked that holds paint well, shrinks very little, and is highly resistant to decay. It is
expensive compared to other soft
woods and it has a tendency to split and crack. Redwood also exhibits the same tannins problem
associated with Western Red Cedar.
Poplar
Poplar is sometimes referred to as the soft hardwood. It is light to medium in weight, strong, soft,
and easily worked. It is moderately priced and grown primarily from New England to Michigan
and from the Appalachians to the Gulf of Mexico. With its very close grain, it is an excellent
choice for detail work and moldings.
Treated Wood
Chemically treated arsenical wood, labeled CCA, ACA, ACZA, should not be used in birdhouse
construction. These wood products can be hazardous to your health and that of our feathered
friends. As early as 2004, the most common chemical treatment CCA (chromate copper arsenate)
was replaced with ACQ (alkaline copper quat). ACQ is much safer to use, holds up well under
outdoor conditions, and will not make a tasty lunch for insects.
Other Flat Materials

Plywood is a manufactured product, universal in its use for a variety of applications. Due to its
many layers, joints are difficult to make and fasten, and edges need special attention to prevent
them from delaminating. If you use plywood, make sure it is for exterior use or marine grade.
Trim Board is a pre-primed product used in residential construction and sold in home
improvement stores. It is a hardboard wood product made from 100% wood fiber coated with
protective resins and finished with an oven-cured primer. I use it as a supporting layer for latticetype roofs and exposed finished roofs for its weather resistant quality. However, any visible
underside of the material must be sealed, and the top surface finished with two coats of durable
paint. The material is thinner than wood, usually measuring 1/2-inch in thickness. It tends to be
brittle and not suitable for basic box construction but as a roof material, it is very durable.

Project under construction, using trim board as a base for applying lattice strips.

2 Building the Basic Box

Build a box, and you can build a great Birdhouse

If you build it, will they come?

Not necessarily, if you build for the wrong species in the wrong environment, they will not come.
In North America, of the 920 known birds, only 85 are classified as primary or secondary cavitynesters. Primary nesters make their own nesting holes, and do so with each new breeding season.
Secondary cavity-nesters are not so lucky, they depend on hollows made by other birds, and
crevices found in decaying trees called "snags" or fabricated nest boxes. Of this group,
approximately 50 species will regularly inhabit birdhouses. But do not be fooled by what appears
to be a small number, its the sheer volume of these birds, and the steady decline of suitable nesting
places that make building birdhouses so essential to their survival. Studies indicate that the rate of
survival for birds bred in nesting boxes is 60 to 80%, as opposed to open nests where a new
nestling only has a 20 to 40% chance for survival.
So what makes a good birdhouse? The answer is quite simple:
Adequate box and entry-hole size for the intended species
Proper ventilation and provision for drainage
Easy access for cleaning and maintenance
Structural stability and quality workmanship

Cavity-nesting birds depend on hollows made by other birds, and crevices found in decaying
trees called snags.

Birdhouse Dimensions
Birdhouses do not have to be mathematically precise. As indicated in the Birdhouse Data and
Dimensions Chart, most small cavity-nesters can be accommodated in boxes of similar
dimensions. The same holds true for larger birds. It is also generally accepted that entry holes of 11/2 inches in diameter will suffice for all small birds and still keep aggressive starlings at bay. For
larger birds, entry holes tend to be more species-specific. Birdhouse dimensions are useful
guidelines, but more important is knowledge of a birds dominant habitat. Common sense dictates
that you would not build a nest box to attract a particular bird without knowing where that bird is
most likely to live and breed. This is where the alphabetical Chart Key comes in handy to give
you an idea of the dominant habitats associated with a particular species. Each habitat is
designated with a letter from A to K shown on the Chart Key and the Birdhouse Data and
Dimension Chart. This information helps you locate where a particular bird may be found. It also
serves as a guideline for making your personal property more conducive for attracting birds

Chart Key
A = Forest edges, meadows, open woods, groves, golf courses, and parks.
B = Wooded open forests, farmlands, mixed coniferous and deciduous trees.
C = Pastures, fields, meadows, parks and woodlots.
D = Open fields with scattered trees.
E = Open fields near water, pastures and marshes.
F = Dry plains spotted with trees or cacti; semi desert.
G = Forest edges, shallow water, mixed deciduous or coniferous trees.
H = Open forests, fresh water, marshes and swamps.
I = Lakes, rivers, ponds and mudflats.
J = Areas of scrub vegetation, frequently with thorn bushes.
Habitat Quality: Good habitat quality provides adequate nesting sites, abundant food to support
adults and young, and many places to escape predators. Without these essentials, birds will go
elsewhere.

Birdhouse Data and Dimensions Chart

Bird
Above

Floor
Dominant
Size

Diameter

Entry Hole

Hole Height

Above Floor

Height

Interior

Height

Ground (feet)

Habitat
Downey Woodpecker
4 x4
1-1/4-1-1/2
20
G
Black-cap Chickadee
4x4
1-1/8-1-1/2
15
A
Carolina Chickadee
4x4
1-1/8-1-1/2
15
A
Mountain Chickadee
4x4
1-1/8-1-1/2
15
A
Brown-Head Nuthatch
4x4
1-1/8-1-1/2
15
B
White-breast Nuthatch
4x4
1- /8-1-1/2
20
A
House Finch
5x5
1-1/2
57
Bewick's Wren
5x5
1-1/4-1-1/2
10
B
Carolina Wren
5x5
1-1-1/2
67
B
House Wren
5x5
1-1-1/2
67
Plain Titmouse
5x5
1-3/8-1-1/2
15
B
Tufted Titmouse
5-x-5
1-3/8-1-1/2
15
B
Tree Swallow
5x5
1-1/4-1-1/2
15
E
Violet Green Swallow
5x5
1-1/4-1-1/2
15
E
Prothonotary Warbler
5x5
1-1/4-1-1/2

8 12

8 -10

5-

68

8 - 12

68

8 12

68

8 12

67

9 12

68

8 12

9 12
67
6 12
6 12
67
67
17

5 15
9 12

J
5

5 10
5 10
9 12

C
5

8 12

9 12

17

6 12

57

8 12

12
E
Eastern Bluebird
5x5
1-1/2
67
8 12
5 10
A
Western Bluebird
5x5
1-1/2
67
8 12
5
10
B
Mountain Bluebird
5x5
1-1/2
67
8 12
5
10
B
Ash-throat Flycatcher
6x6
1-1/2
67
8 12
3
20
F
Great-crest Flycatcher
6x6
1-1/2
68
8 12
6
50
B
Gold-front Woodpecker
6x6
2
10 14
14 16
3
25
B
Redhead Woodpecker
6x6
2
10 14
14 16
8 80
A
Purple Martin
6x6
2-1/4
1
6
5 20
E
Bufflehead Duck
7x7
23
17 19
17 24
16
24
I
Northern Flicker
8x8
2-1/2
10 20
16 24
6
20
B
Screech Owls
8x8
3
10 12
12 18
10 30
D
American Kestrel
9x9
3
10 12
16 18
10
30
A
Common Goldeneye
12 x 12
4
16 18
24 25
15
20
I
Hooded Merganser
12 x 12
4
16 18
24 25
15
20
J
Wood Duck
12 x 12
4
16 18
24 25
6 30
H
Common Merganser
12 x 12
4
16 18
24 25
15
20
A
All dimensions are in inches unless noted in feet.
House sparrows and starlings are not listed, as they are an imported,
aggressive species and competitors with native nesting-box birds. These two species,

introduced from Europe, are not protected by U.S law and may be removed from nests.
The Basic Box
Given the similarity in nest box size, does one size fit all birds? Well, not exactly. The Birdhouse
Data & Dimensions Chart, which I have arranged by box size, suggests that a basic box,
constructed within certain parameters, will accommodate all small birds. It is a bit different for
larger species, but even there, dimensional similarities do exist. Keep in mind, that although
birdhouse dimensions are significant, birds are creatures in the wild, and they do not go about
measuring holes or potential nesting boxes. It has been known for small birds to use larger houses
or for woodpeckers to enlarge entry holes to suit their needs. Nonetheless, all the projects in this
book do list specific dimensions for building purposes and continuity. Guidelines are helpful, but
when circumstances arise where a few dimensions may have to be altered, that is okay. With the
emphasis on small birds, the majority of projects in this book are based on what I call the Basic
Box.

Dimensions of the Basic Box

Woodworking Basics
Woodworking basics are methods and tips to aide you in building a durable, watertight nest box. In
one way or another, these basics apply to all projects featured in this book, but no matter what
tools, tips, or methods you use, they are no excuse for poor workmanship. Proper layout, cutting,
drilling, assemblage, and finishing are tasks only you can perform in accordance with your level of
skill.
Layout
Layout requires accurate measuring and the maximum use of raw material. T h e Standard

Dimensions of Softwood chart will help you to select the board size that best suits your needs. In
the project section, each project is illustrated with the proper dimensions for each piece you will
require. Pieces to be cut from the same size board can be laid out with a standard tape measure or
combination square.

If you layout your pieces along the length of the board, marking your various cross cut lines as you
go, make sure you make allowance for each saw cut. If you use a combination square, here is how
to get the most use out of it. Set the combination square to the exact width and length dimension
required. Hold the square against the board, and mark the dimensions with a pencil. For all your
straight cuts, continue the same process, adjusting the length of the square, as the need requires.
For laying out 45 degree angled-cuts, just set the 45-degree side of the square against your board to
mark the required cut.

Additional angles of 30 and 60 degrees can be drawn using a standard 30/60 degree drafting
triangle in conjunction with the carpenters square, which serves as a T-square.

If the need arises, you can loosen the setscrew on the square and use the ruler portion as a straight
edge. On the other hand, instead of marking with a pencil you can scribe a line with the handy awl
that is part of the tool, or use it to make a starter hole to keep a drill bit from drifting. In addition,
the combination square can be used as a level to make sure your nesting box is squared- up for
assembly. It is easy to see why this user-friendly tool is called a combination square.

Cutting
If you only want to build a few basic birdhouses, you can do so with basic cutting tools. When
cutting by hand, make sure the piece you are cutting is properly clamped to your work surface
before you start.
For cross cuts, cutting across the width of a board, a standard crosscut saw will do the job. To
steady your hand while cutting, set a block of wood against the blade to keep it from wobbling.

Rip cuts, cutting along the length of a board, can also be made with a crosscut saw if the length of
the cut is not too long. A saber saw is a better choice for longer lengths. For cutting smaller pieces

you can use a saber saw with a piece of scrap wood or your combination square clamped to your
work surface to act as a guide. Saber saws can accommodate several types of blade. For fine
cutting, use a 3/16 inch hollow ground blade, but be careful, the thinner the blade the easier it is to
break. Most saber saws are equipped with an adjustable base guide that can be set for cutting
miters and bevels, but always clamp a straight edge guide to keep your saw in line.

Although a saber saw with a fine blade can be used for making curved cuts with a small radius, a
coping saw can do likewise, and it is safer and far less expensive for the beginner. The coping saw
is also very handy for cutting small trim pieces. Like the saber saw, it can accommodate a variety
of blades for fine or coarse cutting.

There several tips I use when cutting with a power bench saw that could be applied to hand cutting.

Tape pieces together, like gables, fronts, and sides, and cut both pieces in one
operation.
For small repetitive pieces, gang-tape strips together and cut several at one time.
If you need special duplicate pieces, cut one exactly to size and use it as a templatetracing guide for any additional pieces.
After you cut all your required pieces, label them by writing on a piece of masking tape
and sticking it on the work piece. It also helps to include an arrow showing the proper
direction for assembly. Do not write on the wood, you are just making extra work for
yourself when it comes time to remove the marks.
If you are using all miter or bevel cuts, cut them when you do your basic box cutting, it
saves time and effort later on.

Drilling
I know of no other woodworking task than building birdhouses where holes are what you want in
your finish project. You will need several holes, and it is best to drill them right after you cut your
box pieces.

Before you start drilling, always place a piece of scrap wood under the piece you are working on
and securely clamp your work to your work surface. Small entry holes, 1-1/2 inches in diameter

are best made with a spade bit by simply drilling partway through the wood until the point exits the
opposite side. Turn the piece over and drill from the opposite side to complete the hole. Before
you start drilling, you will find this method makes drilling entry holes a lot easier, and prevents the
wood from ripping out.
To avoid drowning newly hatched nestlings, use a pilot bit to drill 1/4- inch drain holes in bottom
piece of the box, preferably one in each corner. As an option, when using a recessed bottom, cut all
four corners on a slight angle for the same purpose. A 1/2- inch spade bit can also be used for
drilling ventilation holes; located preferably higher rather than lower, and across from one another,
to release the upward flow of heat. When the box design allows it, another ventilation method that
I find useful, is to cut the sides lower than the front and back to create an air slot for cross
ventilation.

If you plan to assemble your birdhouse with the trim head screws, pilot holes are necessary to
avoid cracking the wood. Remember, when using screws in softwood, the pilot hole should always
be slightly smaller than the screw shank for a good fit without splitting the wood. For attaching
bases to your birdhouse, you will need to drill holes for Phillips screws. These holes should also
be smaller than the screw size to allow for attaching and reattaching the base before and after
maintenance.

Joints
For durability and water-tightness, solid joints are your first line of defense. In nest box building
the three most basic joints are the plain miter, butt joint, and shoulder joint.

For right angle connections, an accurately cut glued and nailed butt joint will work just fine. Roof
joints are a bit trickier. The miter joint is generally used for sloped roofs because it does not
expose vulnerable end grain. The butt joint is easier to make and still the most popular for 45degree slopes, but to survive harsh weather conditions it requires some form of end grain treatment
for the one side of the joint that is left exposed. A more difficult joint to make is the 60-degree
gable miter. Even a bench saw is not much help, without some kind of a jig, since most saw blades
cannot be titled to a 60-degree angle. However, if you do not mind dealing with end grain, a
compromised 60-degree joint can be made by cutting two boards at a 30-degree bevel and joining
them in what might be termed a butt-miter joint. Since I do not consider a 60-degree roof joint as
basic, I will show you how to cut this joint on one of the projects where it is used.
In woodworking, wood joints have their pros and cons, and it comes down to choices and
compromises that you must make. Nonetheless, any joint that exposes the end grain is a problem
joint and needs to be properly sealed using one of the following methods:
Prior to painting, coat the exposed grain with a mixture of two parts waterproof glue
to one part water.
Spread a thin coat of paintable caulking adhesive over the grain.
Paint two coats of clear acrylic medium over the exposed joint one coat before
painting and one coat after.
You should pay close attention to all joints located in horizontal surfaces; caulk them

or use one of the suggested sealing methods. An old construction rule of thumb says if
a water-suspect joint points its nose to the sky caulk it!

Assembly
Before you assemble the four sides of your basic birdhouse, spend a little time in worthwhile
preparation.
Sand any rough edges that might impede assembly and finishing.
Clean all impediments from the surfaces to be joined, sawdust, wood chips, and
splinters.
Make sure all exposed surfaces have been properly sealed.
For good measure, temporarily tape your pieces together to check for proper fit,
accurate joints, or any uneven surfaces that you may regret later.
There are several ways to assemble the basic box. In the preceding Tools and Materials section, I
mentioned that I use a handmade bench hook for assembly for most of the birdhouses I build. It is a
great little device for squaring up and aligning the various parts of your project. Now I realize if
you are making a single birdhouse, you do not want to go to the trouble of making a bench hook.
Nevertheless, you will need a substantial surface that is level to maintain accuracy; preferably, one
that has a vertical side that acts like a bench hook.
There are several ways you can assemble the Basic Box. You can hold the pieces together with
clamps or tape while you drive your fasteners, or you can use a simple bench hook for alignment
and support, or some similar such method that allows for easy assembly. For illustration purposes,
I will show you how to assemble the Basic Box using screws or nails with the help of a bench hook
or with the use of clamps. Whatever method you use to assemble the Basic Box your first order of
business should be gluing for a long-lasting strong joint. First apply a bead of Titebond III

Ultimate wood glue to the inside edges of the first front piece where it will meet the sides. Apply
the glue in a zigzag bead; a thinner coat is better than a thick one. Then rub the two pieces to be
connected together to evenly transfer the glue from one surface to the other.

If you are using nails with a bench hook or similar method of alignment, as the glue is setting up,
tape the pieces together prior to nailing to keep them aligned. Drive the casing nails at a slight
angle (varying the angles from nail to nail) and they will be less likely to pull out over time. If you
do not have a method for keeping your pieces aligned and level, use your combination square to
square up your box. You do not want a crooked box because that leads to a crooked roof. After you
have nailed on the first front, flip the box over and repeat this step for the second front. This is the
easiest way to assemble the Basic Box for beginners.

If you are using screws with a bench hook or similar means of support, first apply glue as noted in
the previous step. While applying pressure to the front of the box, use your corded hand drill with
the proper drill bit to drive trim screws into the predrilled pilot holes. After you have attached the
first front, turn the box around and repeat the process for the second front.

If you are using clamps with hand-driven trim screws, after applying the glue, clamp the four
pieces of the box together in the correct alignment. Drive the screws into the predrilled pilot holes
with a screwdriver containing the proper driver head.

TIP: Dipping your nail or screw into a bar of soap before you drive it helps it go in easier.

Finishing
Some of the projects require intricate painting and I am often asked how I achieve successful
results. My answer is, "Very carefully". Of course, this reply hardly suffices as an answer to a
legitimate question. What I usually do is paint the main body of the birdhouse before I add the
intricate trim. I paint the trim pieces separately, then glue, and nail these pieces on to the main body
of the box. On the main body of a project, where pieces overlap or different colored surfaces meet,
I either use Scotch Blue Painters Tape to mask off one piece from another, or I freehand paint the
adjoining edge with an artist's "edger" brush once again, very carefully. An "edger" brush is
essentially a flat brush with the end cut at an angle. These brushes can be purchased from just about
any art or craft store. This handy brush is excellent for painting precise lines and curves as well as
edges. To properly "cut in" edges, use the narrow edge of the brush, pressing just hard enough to
flex the bristles. Keep your eye on the paint edge, and paint with long, slow strokes.

Before I start painting, I countersink all my nails with a nail set, fill the holes with Elmer's
Carpenter's Interior/Exterior Wood Filler, and then lightly sand the surface to get a smooth
finish.

This added little step keeps the fasteners from rusting and staining the finish and it makes for good
workmanship. Is it necessary? Not really, if you are only making a single birdhouse or two, but
when you are in the business of making birdhouses, as I am, it is a sign of a quality product.
When adding the final paint finish, I offer the following tips:
In selecting colors, keep in mind paint dries darker so choose colors accordingly.
Paint light-colored areas first followed by dark over light for better coverage.
Paint the edges of wood surfaces before painting flat surfaces.
Always paint in the direction of the wood grain.
In general, smooth out your initial strokes as you paint, always starting from a wet
edge.
Bases
I usually consider the base, or bottom of the box, as separate from the box itself. With the base
being separate, it allows for attachment to a post or other support independent of the house itself.
Once the base is in place the house can be attached or removed from the underside. When attached
to the box the base then serves as the nesting platform, a means of access, and a mounting device all

in one. Regardless of how a base is cut, they all share common features concealed rust resistant
fasteners, protection from water intrusion, and for the most part, four blocks, balls or thread spools
for interior display. The following bases are ones I typically use:
The Chamfer, with a four-side beveled edge and 1/4-inch recess.
Square cut, featuring a 1/4-inch setback.
Semi-recessed, with one surface concealed and the other set back.
The Flat Plate; a basic block attached to the underside of a pocket hole.

Basic Box Variations

The Basic Box can be tall, short, narrow, or wide and still be a captivating nesting place for birds.
I have developed four variations of the basic box that serve as the underlying structure for the
designs in this book. Each project begins with one of the variations to help you visualize a
particular design and to comprehend its simple origin.
Variation 1 is a rectilinear box.
Variation 2 is the integral gable box.
Variation 3 Is a basic box crowned with a special top.
Variation 4 is what I refer to as the "three-sided" box.
The best is yet to come!
Up to this point, we have explored the Basic Box concept, so where do you go from here? Well, if
you were to take any of these Basic Box variations, with an adequately sized entry hole, then attach

a top and bottom you might attract a bird or two. However, the result might not be a fascinating
feast for the human eye, which is why the Basic Box is just the beginning. From this point on the
real fun begins. Starting with any one of the four variations, you can progress from Building the
Basic Box to going Beyond the Basic Box by adding some well-chosen enhancements that I will
show you, or by exercising some of that stored-up creative ingenuity.

3 Beyond the Basic Box

From Basic to Beyond Basic

If variety is the spice of life, birdhouses have to be one of the seasonings. They can be found in a
vast array of shapes, sizes, and colors, made from every imaginable material you can think of, and
some you may have never thought possible. Birdhouses can be purely functional, fanciful or
downright bizarre, but one thing is for sure, they offer the greatest opportunity for artistic
expression and personal gratification. Building birdhouses can be fun for the whole family - a great
way to teach the little ones about art and design while showing them how to handle and respect
tools.
So where do you start? Like the projects in this book, you start with the basics and go beyond,
trying your hand at the projects that interest you and are best suited to your skill level. Regardless
of where you start, it all begins with one of the Basic Boxes. Change a few shapes, alter a few
features, embellish a surface or two, add some of your own creative juices, and you will have a
recipe for success.
In this section, I will show you how to change a simple box into a fascinating birdhouse by
changing gables; altering roof slopes, adding special tops and creating free form designs. I will
introduce you to the concept of surface embellishment, using products purchased off the shelf, and
ones you can make. This section, together with the previous two, will serve as your primer for
building the projects in Section 4. They are intended to serve as a reference that you can return to
during the building process to refresh your memory, recall a tip, or find a particular part required
for the project you are working on.
Changing Shapes and Features
In Section 2, I mentioned that all the birdhouses in this book derive from one of the four Basic Box
variations. However, I encourage you to improvise and challenge your own creative skills by
starting with one of the basic variations and using your own ingenuity.
Variation 1 is a simple box composed of two equal sides attached perpendicular to two equal
fronts. The two sides are cut-down for ventilation purposes. By using a dominant design element,
like a prominent gable to support the roof, you can change a Basic Box so it no longer resembles its
humble beginnings. You can also alter the gable feature by cutting it in half, adding columns, or

extending legs all using the design theme of the enlarged gable. By alternating how the sides are
the attached to the fronts, you can change the look of the Basic Box making the front wider and the
gable smaller. The smaller gable can then be transformed by cutting different geometric shapes
within the same feature a circle, triangle, or square. In addition, by changing colors and adding
patterns to the sides of a Basic Box, what started as a common feature can become something quite
distinctive.
Four Variations of the Basic Box

Variation 2, a Basic Box with an integral gable offers many opportunities for changing features
and shapes. I use 30, 45, and 60- degree slopes because of their architectural reference and
because they are the easiest to cut and simplest to reproduce. To add variety, I change the height or
expand the width of the box, cut some gable boxes with legs, or re-use pieces that are often
discarded to create a new shape.
Variation 3, the special top, extends the concept of the Basic Box by employing different tops to
transform a rectangular or square box into an artistic statement. One topping device I use is a
standard 6-inch square copper post cap, purchased from a home improvement store. An extended
wood platform supporting a gable is another useful feature that adds a different dimension to a
Basic Box. On the other hand, you can cap a box with a shape of your own choice to add variety
and interest.
Variation 4 the freeform, offers endless opportunity for design. Your only limitation is your
imagination. I have developed four projects in this book to illustrate the potential of adding free
form shapes to a simple three-sided box a bottom with two sides. You can easily duplicate these
shapes by enlarging the small-scale templates that I have provided for each specific project.
Templates
For some of the projects, specific templates are not only useful but also necessary. I do not
advocate enlarging a template with a grid of measured squares, they are not only time consuming,
but often not very accurate. The best way to have the templates enlarged is at your local copy
center. It saves the trouble and aggravation for a very small cost. Even if the enlarged template is
on paper, you can carefully tape it down in just a few places, and trace it with a soft pencil. If you
are so inclined, you can also cut out the paper template and glue it to a piece of cardboard.
Boxes with identical fronts are best laid out by taping two pieces of wood together, drawing the
proper slope or shape on the surface of one piece, and then cutting the two pieces in one operation.
This method is more precise for matching shapes because one shape acts as a template for its
duplicate.
For the retail market, I replicate designs; therefore, I make durable plastic templates for the main
features of every birdhouse I reproduce. If you are only making one or two birdhouses, paper or
card stock templates will work just fine. However, for stencil designs, you will need standard

stenciling material or Mylar for cutting your stencils.

Enhancements
Enhancements are anything you add to a Basic Box. It can be functional like a predator guard or
purely decorative like a handmade molding. For purposes of this section, I have divided
enhancements into two categories purchased and handmade. You can also modify a purchased
item, like a piece of chair rail molding, by cutting it into special profiles. Other fabricated items
can be used directly without modification. Handmade items are pieces you can make with the basic
tools as illustrated in the Tools and Materials Section.
Purchased items
Purchased items are considered standard stock items. Some stock items like wood dowels and
craft-sized pieces of poplar come in small lengths of 3 to 4 feet. Wood balls, half balls, and thread
spools are best found in craft stores. Moldings, and lattice, are usually sold in 8-foot lengths
however some stores have an "odds and ends" bin where you can purchased inexpensive cut-offs.
For attaching small pieces, I recommend a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails or waterproof
glue like Titebond III. For best adhesion, I suggest taping the pieces to the surface while the glue
sets up. If you use thin brad-type nails, you should be able to attach small trim pieces without
predrilling pilot holes. You can cleanly cut moldings, small shapes, and fine pieces with a coping
saw. As part of the enhancement group of items, I have illustrated, sized, and named the various
fabricated pieces that I have used for the projects in this book. Where a specific item is used on a
project, it is so noted in the Projects Section
Purchased Items Chart

Chair Rail Molding

Chair rail molding is in a class by itself. As the illustrations indicate, you can cut a wide variety of
sizes and shapes from a standard chair rail molding that can be purchased in any home
improvement store. I have indicated seven specific profiles that can be made from a typical 3-inch
chair rail profile. Each of these pieces is used in one way or another on several projects depicted
in this book. However, there is a downside. Chair rail molding comes in long lengths and that can
get expensive, so I advise you to head back to the store's "odds and ends" bin. Another option is to
stop by a construction site and ask the millwork contractor for a scrap piece. I am sure they will be
very happy to oblige. Most experienced wood workers are handy with a router and can fabricate
their own intricate pieces, but for the novice, a router usually exceeds their skill level. The various
chair rail pieces you can cut, go a long way in enhancing a design, and they offer you a lot of
freedom of choice. I have numbered several chair rail profiles from # 1 through # 7 that correspond

to their specific use on projects illustrated in this book.

This diagram illustrates various chair rail segments 1 thru 7 cut from a standard Chair
Rail Molding. Where a specific segment is used on a particular project, it is listed with one of
the above numbers in the Projects Section of this book

PVC Tubing
Polyvinyl chloride, abbreviated PVC, is a thermoplastic polymer widely used in the construction
industry; it is inexpensive, durable, and easily worked. PVC tubes come in a variety of sizes
purchased from your local home improvement store. I prefer the 3-1/2-inch diameter by 1/4-inch
thick size for use in birdhouses because the scale is more appropriate. You can cut PVC with a fine
tooth handsaw, hacksaw or coping saw and any number of power tools. Regardless of the tool you
use, make sure it is fitted with the correct blade for cutting PVC. When cutting by hand, the PVC
tube should be securely clamped to your work surface. Half pieces are useful for roof shapes,
while 3/4-inch wide segments make an excellent choice for entry-hole predator guards. If the edges
are rough, after cutting, a little sand paper will easily smooth them out. To attach PVC to just about
any surface, construction adhesive is your best bet. Finishing nails and glue work just as well,
although I suggest you predrill small pilot holes prior to nailing.

PVC tubing cut into half-rounds and segments.

Post Caps
Like many of the fabricated products I recommend, post caps are readily available from your home
improvement store in a wide range of finishes and sizes. I find the nominal 6-inch square

Nominal 6-inch copper-topped post cap

copper-topped variety to be ideal for the tall and narrow Basic Box. The cap is easily fastened
without the use of nails. You simply squirt a bead of caulk or construction adhesive around the
inner rim and push the post cap over your pre-prepared box.

Handmade Items
In addition to items you can purchase, you can make several
items. You can make predator guards for entry holes,
moldings and brackets for enhancements, and a variety of
finials to top off your handy work. All of these items are used
in one way or another for the projects in this book.
Predator Guards for Entry Holes
Predator guards are both functional and decorative. They can be made in almost any shape to add
character and color to a design. Based on simple blocks, all you really need is a saw, an electric
drill with a hole-saw accessory, and a 1-1/2 -inch spade bitl. Many of the projects in this book
include a special type of predator guard consisting of a circular wood ring with a cutout
center that I call the predator donut. The cut out center portion matches the standard 1-1/2-inch
entry hole. What is unique about the predator donut is that it can be cut in one operation using a
multi-blade hole-saw accessory attached to your hand drill.
However, a multi-blade hole-saw, with interchangeable blades, is not easy to come by, and you
may have to ask your home improvement store to order one for you. The good news is they are not
very expensive. To use the hole-saw, I set one blade to the widest width, 2-1/2-inches, and the
center blade to 1-1/2-inches to make the proper size predator donut. You can also cut the predator
donut in half and it becomes an arch. As with any handmade item, safety always comes first. It is
very important to clamp your work piece to a bench or sturdy table before starting. Drills and holesaws have a tendency to spin a piece of wood beyond your ability to hold it, so be careful!

Making a wooden Predator Donut by cutting the inner and outer circle in one operation using
a handheld electric drill with a hole saw attachment.

Handmade Moldings
It is not too difficult to make your own moldings. I have included four that you can fabricate without
too much trouble, using a 1/4-inch thick by 3/4-inch to 1-inch wide wood strip. With an accurate
layout and some patience, the moldings can be cut with a handsaw or the power tool of your
choice. Moldings are somewhat delicate and require a finer grade of wood like select pine or fine
grain poplar. Lattice, cut to proper width, can also be used. You will need an adequate means of
support when cutting moldings by hand. In addition, remember to clamp your work before you start
cutting, even a hand tool can cause a serious injury.
The four moldings I have illustrated, M1 through M4, are 1/4-inch thick stock, M 3 is 1/2-inch
thick.

M1: a 1/8-inch wide saw cut is made on the top edge of the molding strip every 1/2-inch to a depth
of 1/4-inch.

M2: 45-degree notches are cut every 3/4-inch, 3/8-inch deep.

M3: 45-degree notches are cut every 1/2-inch to 1/4-inch deep.

M4: a 1-inch wide strip with 1/8-inchwide saw cuts every 3/4-inch to a depth of 1/8-inch.

Roofing Materials
The basic building material for roofs is 3/4-inch pine. I also use cedar lattice that I cut from cedar
stock, but that requires a table saw to maintain a consistent thickness. As a substitute, you can
purchase pine lattice and paint or stain it to suit your taste.
Some projects make use of metal for a roof. Contrary to what some believe, metal roofs will not
"roast" young nestlings. Actually, shiny metals reflect the rays of the sun in much the same way as
reflective glass in high-rise office buildings. The metals I use are 30-gauge rolled copper sheet
and commercial aluminum flashing. Both materials are light gauge, can be cut with ordinary
household scissors, and adhered with Liquid Nails construction adhesive. To smooth rough-cut
edges medium weight sandpaper will do the job nicely. Roof materials, use singly or in
combination with other materials, are listed with the specific project. Lightweight metals can be
purchased in sheets from local metal craft stores or online.

Hardware
Other than nails and screws, birdhouses do not require a lot of hardware. If you use hooks, hangers
or hinges make sure they are suitable for exterior application. Your best bet are metals that are
corrosion resistant like stainless steel, aluminum, brass, and bronze. A less expensive substitute is
the plated variety but you are sacrificing durability.
Miscellaneous Items
To the novice woodworker, some of the items used on the projects may seem out of their
woodworking comfort zone. By applying the following methods, you should be able to accomplish
most of the Beyond Basic tasks using basic tools. As with all hand cutting and drilling, I cannot
over emphasize that you securely clamp your work to a solid work surface before you start any
cutting or drilling task. When you drill holes in a piece of wood, always place a sacrifice piece
under the one you are drilling.

Cutting a Predator Guard: If you do not own a multi blade hole-saw, you can make the predator
donut using a single blade hole-saw. First, drill the center hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit until

the point pierces the underside of the wood block. Do not drill all the way through. Then drill the
outside circular shape all the way through with a single 2-1/2-inch hole-saw. Then turn the circular
cut out shape upside down and drill out the rest of the center portion with the spade drill.

Cutting a Predator Donut

Cutting a Circular Archway: Draw a circle for the archway to the required dimension using a
pencil compass. With a hole saw and electric drill, cut out the circular shape. Use a coping saw to
cut the two vertical lines, and then carefully cut the two horizontal lines to join the circular cutout.

Cutting a circular archway

Cutting Equal Brackets: Find the center of a 3-inch square by crisscrossing two equally spaced
lines. At the center, drill a hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit. Saw the drilled block along the
original equally spaced lines with a coping saw to make four equal brackets.

Cutting equal brackets

Cutting an Air Hole Slot: Drill two equal holes the required distance apart with a 1/2-inch spade
bit. Cut horizontal lines between the drilled holes with a jigsaw or coping saw to complete the slot.
The coping saw blade can be loosened and reset within the drilled hole for cutting in a horizontal
direction.

Cutting a Pilot Hole: Layout the portion to be cut out with pencil guidelines. In one corner of your
layout, drill a hole with a 1/2-inch spade bit. With a jigsaw or coping saw cut out the required
space.

Finials; See Projects for Location

4 The Projects

he best way to learn and improve is to challenge yourself. If something does not work out
as I say it should, use your intuitive sense and devise your own solution. If you make a
mistake, do not be discouraged, we often learn more from our mistakes than we do from
our successes.
Choose a project.
Study the project that interests you, and is within your comfort zone. Review
illustrations carefully to determine what tools and materials you will need and what
you may have to purchase or borrow from friends. Checking the Getting Started
section is also recommended.
Assemble all your tools and materials in an orderly manner according to the sequence
in which they will be used and be mindful of safety.
Measure, cut, drill, and label all your major pieces prior to assembly. Remember the
enhancements are considered "add-ons".
The choice is up to you
With all the projects in this book, I want to encourage you to explore and experiment.
Many of the parts and pieces used as enhancements can be interchanged from one

project to another including moldings, predator guards, and finials. I leave color
selections up to you, as I know some of you have your personal favorites, so far be it
from me to impose my favorites.
I also suggest that if something does not quite work out the way I say it should, use your
intuitive sense and devise your own unique solution. If you come up with a better way
to do something, how about letting me know about it?

Now let's build some fantastic birdhouses!

PIECES and FEATURES

Like two other projects in the Variation 1 series, simple geometry plays a key role in altering
common features to change a design. A linear theme is chosen for this project using a square
predator guard with a rectangular-cut gable. The linear design is complemented with a vertical row
of 1/4-inch square pieces of poplar stock attached to each side for additional contrast and texture.
The box can be painted in vivid colors accented with brightly colored wood buttons and topped off

with an eye-catching finial.

Cutting List
Description
Qty
Size
Cut From
Gable
2
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 pine
Roof
2
3/4 x 7-1/4 x 9
1 x 8 pine
Front
2
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8
1 x 8 pine
Base
1
3/4 x 7-1/2 x 7-1/2
1 x 10 pine
Side
2
3/4 x 5 x 6
1 x 6 pine
Blocks
4
3/4 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4
scrap pine
Trim
2
1/4 x 1/4 x 48
stock poplar
Other Items: 3-inch square predator guard cut from scrap (2), Finial # 6 (See Section 3, Beyond
the Basic Box P.49)

Instructions
To begin, layout the gables, fronts, sides, and base on the required
sized board. Layout the finial and predator guards on scrap wood as indicated in the
cutting list.

Figure 1
Cut the basic box pieces with your choice of cutting tools. Roof
miters and the base chamfers are best cut with a power tool. Cut the finial pieces,
predator guards and four wood blocks from scrap.
Next, drill the entry holes as indicated with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.
Note the sides of the box are cut down for purposes of ventilation.

Figure 2
Assemble the basic box by applying glue to the edge of each side
and attaching the fronts as shown with 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim screws. Spread
glue on the backside of the gable and attach it to the basic box. Make sure the gable
aligns with the top of the box exactly as shown in the figure 2 or the roof will not fit.
Repeat for the second gable.
Attach one roof section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing
nails. Align each roof section with the top of the gable one section at a time. When
adding the second section spread a bead of glue the full length of the miter and on the
adjoining gable section. Press the second roof section firmly in place and fasten with
1-1/2-inch casing nails.
Attach the four blocks to the underside of the base with
construction adhesive. Now set the base under the box so the sides and front align
allowing for the drip edge on the chamfer. Drill two pilot holes through the base to
engage the sides of the box and insert two 1-1/2-inch # 8 Phillips screws that can be
removed for easy maintenance. Locate the midpoint of the roof and attach the finial

with construction adhesive. Attach the predator guards with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing
nails.
Cut twelve1/4-inch square pieces of poplar stock 6-inches long six for each side. Glue and nail the pieces in place with 3/4-inch brads as indicated in
the diagram, spaced 1-inch on center starting from the seam where the front meets the
side.
Countersink all visible nails and screws. Fill the holes with
exterior wood filler and sand the holes smooth. Paint or stain the project according to
your personal choice.

FEATURES
and
PATTERNS
This nest box
follows
the
common theme
of Variation 1 change features
and you change
a
design.
Triangular
gables,
with
predator guards
to
match,
distinguish this
project from the
other two in the
series.
The
main feature of
this nest box is
the
stenciled
pattern
that
appears on each
side. I suggest
you paint the
pattern
in
contrasting colors for variety and interest.
Cutting List
Description
Gable
2
Front
2
Base
1

Qty
Size
Cut From
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 7-1/2 x 7-1/2
1 x 10 pine

Side
2
3/4 x 5 x 6
1 x 6 pine
Blocks
4
3/4 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4
scrap pine
Other Items: 2-1/2-inch square predator guard cut from scrap (2), Finial # 7; (See Section 3,
Beyond the Basic Box P49)
Instructions
Layout the gables, fronts, sides, and base on the required sized
board. Layout the finial and predator guards on scrap wood.
Cut the basic box pieces and two identical gables with your choice of
cutting tools.

Figure 1
Chamfers and miters are best cut with a power tool.
Cut the finial pieces, predator guards and four wood blocks from
scrap.
Next drill the entry holes as indicated with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.
Note the sides of this box are cut down for ventilation.
Before you assemble the box, I suggest that you divide each side
into four equal parts and paint the contrasting backgrounds as shown in the photo in
preparation for the stencil pattern that will be overlaid on the four sections.

Figure 2
Assemble the basic box by applying glue to the edge of each side
and attaching the fronts as shown with 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim screws. Spread
glue on the backside of the gable and attach it to the basic box. Make sure the gable
aligns with the top of the box exactly as shown in the diagram or the roof will not fit.
Repeat for the second gable.
Attach one roof section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing
nails. Align each roof section with the top of the gable, one section at a time. When
adding the second section spread a bead of glue the full length of the miter and on the
adjoining gable. Press the second roof section firmly in place and fasten with 1-1/2inch casing nails.
Attach the four blocks to the underside of the base with
construction adhesive. Now set the base under the box so the sides and front align
allowing for the drip edge on the chamfer. Drill two pilot holes through the base to
engage the sides of the box and insert two 1-1/2-inch # 8 Phillips screws that can be
removed for easy maintenance. Locate the midpoint of the roof and attach the finial
with construction adhesive. Attach the predator guards with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing
nails.

If you have not already done so, paint each 5-inch side panel. You
can paint each square a different color, or alternate the colors in the four spaces.
Whatever you decide, it is desirable that the side sections should differ in color from
the main body of the box for variety and interest.

While the paint is drying, enlarge the panel design to the size
indicated. Tape the design down on a flat surface and tape a piece of clear adhesive
stencil material over it. (Do not remove the backing that covers the adhesive portion at
this time). With a craft knife only cut out the elliptical shapes within the squares.
Carefully remove the adhesive backing from your tracing and press the cut out stencil
onto the 5-inch panel surface. Smooth out the design so it adheres flush to the surface.
Mask out the portions that are to receive a different contrasting color. With a 4-inch
sponge roller, cover the cut out portion with paint. Make sure the roller is not overly
loaded with paint or it could run or smear. Repeat for each side panel.

Figure 3

FEATURES
and STRIPES
Circular arches,
predator guards
cut from circles,
and a whimsical
finial are just a
few
features
that
separate
this
project
from two others
in the series on
changing
features.
The
box is painted
in
a
rich
background
color, and then
wrapped with
bright
contrasting
color bands.
Cutting List

Description
Gable
2
Front
2
Base
1
Side
2

Qty
Size
Cut From
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 7-1/2 x 7-1/2
1 x 10 pine
3/4 x 5 x 6
1 x 6 pine

Blocks
4
3/4 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4
scrap pine
Other Items: Two 3-inch round predator guards cut from scrap, Finial # 8 (See Section 3,
Beyond the Basic Box P49) Make sure you have a good quality painter's masking tape for this
project as recommended in (Section 1, Getting Started)
Instructions
First layout the gables, fronts, sides, and base on the required
sized board, then layout the finial and predator guards on scrap wood.
Cut the basic box pieces with your choice of cutting tools. Roof
miters and the base chamfers are best cut with a power tool. Cut the finial pieces,
predator guards and four wood blocks from scrap.
Next drill the entry holes as indicated with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.
Note the sides of this box are cut down for ventilation

Figure 1
Assemble the basic box by applying glue to the edge of each side
and attaching the fronts as shown with 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim screws. Spread
glue on the backside of the gable and attach it to the basic box. Make sure the gable
aligns with the top of the box exactly as shown in the diagram or the roof will not fit.
Repeat for the second gable.

Figure 2
Attach one roof section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing
nails. Align each roof section with the top of the gable one section at a time. When
adding the second section spread a bead of glue the full length of the miter and on the
adjoining gable. Press the second roof section firmly in place and fasten with 1-1/2inch casing nails.
Attach the four blocks to the underside of the base with
construction adhesive. Now set the base under the box so the sides and front align
allowing for the drip edge on the chamfer. Drill two pilot holes through the base to
engage the sides of the box and insert two 1-1/2-inch # 8 screws that can be removed
for easy maintenance. Locate the midpoint of the roof and attach the finial with
construction adhesive. Attach the predator guards with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing
nails.
Apply paint in the colors of your choice. Let the paint dry, and
then mark off the color stripe arrangement as shown. Keep your colors bright with a lot
of contrast. For the overlaid stripe pattern, tape off the segments as indicated in the
diagram and apply two coats of paint in the colors of your choice.

Remember to paint dark colors over light ones for the best results
and use painter's masking tape to achieve straight lines.

MIX
MATCH

and

This
project
mixes profile
pieces cut from
chair
rail
molding with
parts hand cut
from standard
stock. Together
they make a
match,
one
complementing
the other, to
enrich
the
surface of an
ordinary basic
box with an
attached gable.
The
special
gable
design
organizes
the
ensemble,
setting
a
framework for
the placement of
enhancements.
Cutting List
Description
Roof
2
Base
1
Front
2

Qty
Size
Cut From
3/4 x 10 x 10
1 x 12 pine
3/4 x 7-3/4 x 7-1/4
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 7 x 7
1 x 8 pine

Gable
2
Trim
4
Triangles
14
Dowels
8
Flat Trim (front)
Flat Trim (side)

3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8
1 x 8 pine
1/4 x 1/4 x 48
stock poplar
1/4 x 1 x 1
stock poplar
1/2 diameter x 2-1/2
stock poplar
2
1/4 x 5/8 x 8-1/4
stock poplar
2
1/4 x 5/8 x 5
stock poplar

Other Items: 3/4-inch PVC section cut from 3-1/2-inch diameter tube; Chair rail pieces #2, 3, and
6 and Finial # 11 (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box P49)
Instructions
Lay out the basic box pieces, gables, roof sections and base using a
carpenters combination square or a metal ruler and 45-degree drafting triangle.
Cut all the basic box pieces with the cutting tools of your choice.
Miters and chamfers are best cut with power tools; however, you could use a butt joint
for the roof in lieu of a miter.

Figure 1
Assemble the box. Spread glue on the edges of the sides, and attach
the fronts as shown with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. In the illustration, note the specific
alignment of the gable to the box. This alignment is critical to the placement of the
enhancement pieces. Spread glue on the backside of the gable and attach it to the box
with 1-1/2-inch casing nails, respecting the exact location indicated. Repeat for the
second gable.

Figure 2
Now set the roof in two sections. Apply glue to the gable slopes and
make sure the roof overhangs the front face of the gable by 1- inch. Attach each section
with 1-1/2-inch casing nails making a tight butt or miter joint at the peak. At this point
you can add the four 1-1/4-inch blocks to the base with construction adhesive and set
the base aside for now.

Cut two triangles (A) 1-inch by 2-inches wide from 1/4-inch poplar for
the gable peak. Cut twelve 1-inch-by-1-inch triangles (B), six to a gable from 1/4-inch
poplar. Following the pattern shown, align and glue the triangles in place with
construction adhesive. Add the 1-1/4-inch half ball (C) directly under triangle (A),
also with construction adhesive
Refer to Section 3, and cut all your chair rail pieces (D, E and H) as

indicated and glue in place. Cut the 3/4-inch PVC section as explained in Section 3
and attach it with construction adhesive. Finish the other front exactly the same way
before proceeding further.
Cut 1/4-inch flat trim (G) to the size indicated in the cutting list and glue
in place. Cut 1/2-inch dowels (F), four for each front to the size indicated in the cutting
list and glue in place as shown with a 1/8-inch space between each set of two
dowels.
Align the base with the sides and drill a pilot hole in each edge of the
access base to engage it with the sides. These holes are for the 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillipshead screws that are easily removed for maintenance. Do not glue the access base to
the sides. Add the 1/4-inch square trim to the ends of the roof as indicated. Refer to
Section 3 for finial #11.
Countersink all exposed nails and fill the holes with exterior wood filler.
Sand the holes smooth. Paint all exposed surfaces with your choice of colors

Lattice House
In this project, the main design element is the gable; however, the roof can take on a personality of
its own by adding lattice strips. This design is one in a series of three cedar box birdhouses based
on Variation 1, the simple box. For the beginner, it is not too difficult and a good one to start with.

Cutting List
Description
Qty
Size
Cut From
Gable
2
1 x 10-1/2 x14
1 x12 pine
Roof
2
1/2 x 10-1/2 x 12
1/2 x 12 trim board
Side
2
1 x 6 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 cedar
Front
2
1x5x8
1 x 6 cedar
Lattice Strips
22
1/4 x 1-1/2 x 12
purchased
Base
1
1 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2
1 x8 cedar
Blocks
4
1 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4
scrap cedar
Other Items: Predator Guard: 3/4-inch segment cut from 3-1/2-inch diameter PVC tube, Finial #
9 (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box P49)
Instructions
Cut the basic cedar box pieces, with the saw of your choice, to the size indicated in
Figure 1 and the cutting list. After the fronts are cut it is best to drill the 1-1/2-inch
entry holes with a spade bit prior assembly.

Figure 1
To assemble the box, use exterior waterproof glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim
screws. Make sure the sides are fastened to the fronts as shown in the illustration or the
gables will not fit properly. Fasten the gables to the cedar box with casing nails and
glue.
Now cut the roof pieces. If you purchased 12-inch wide trim board just cut two 9-3/4inch by 12-inch pieces. The illustration indicates a mitered roof joint, but if you prefer
the easier butt joint, cut one roof section 1/2-inch less, which is the trim board
thickness.
Attach the roof one section at a time. Center one of the roof pieces over box- gable

assembly and fasten it to the gable with glue and 1-1/2-inch, casing nails. Align the
second roof section with the first one then glue and nail it in place. The 12-inch piece
is measured from front to back.
Over the gable archway, just above the entry hole, attach a 3/4"-inch segment of PVC
as a predator guard. Attach the PVC using construction adhesive.
Cut the access base to the size shown. Cut four 1-1/4-inch square base blocks and
attach them to the bottom of the base with construction adhesive.
Drill a pilot hole at each edge of the access base to correspond with the cedar box
above. The holes are for the screw attachment of the base to the box that may be
removed for routine maintenance. Temporarily attach the base with the two #8, 1-1/2inch long zinc-coated Phillips-head screws.
Attach the precut lattice strips with glue and 3/4-inch brads starting at the lower end of
the roof overlapping each lat 1/2-inch as you progress upward to the peak. If you have
access to a table saw, you can cut your own lattice out of cedar stock.

Figure 2
As a final touch, cut finial #9 and attach it to the roof at the center point with 1-1/2-inch
nails or construction adhesive. Add three 1-inch painted wood buttons on each front as
shown to complete the design, or an enhancement of your choice.

Figure 3

LATTICE and BRACKETS

Cedar or pine lattice and brackets distinguish this house from the other two in the Variation 1 cedar
box series. The bracket is an architectural feature that has witnessed a comeback in building
design. The lattice is well suited to the rustic character and scale of a birdhouse. You can cut your
own lattice or purchase it from a home improvement store.
Cutting List
Description
Qty
Size
Cut From
Gable
2
1 x 11-1/4 x 12
1 x 12 pine
Roof
2
1/2 x 12 x 12-1/4
1 x 12 trim board
Side
2
1 x 6 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 cedar
Base
1
1 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 cedar
Front
2
1x6x8
1 x 6 cedar
Blocks
4
1 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4
scrap cedar
Brackets
4
1 x 1-1/2 x 1-1/2
scrap pine or cedar
Other Items: Trim, 1/2-inch wide by 1/4-inch thick cedar; predator donut, Finial # 10 and
brackets (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box P49) Lattice, cut from cedar stock or purchased

Instructions
Layout and cut the basic cedar box pieces and gables according to
the illustrations shown below with the saw of your choice, and then drill the 1-1/2inch entry holes with a spade bit.

To assemble the box, use exterior waterproof glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim
screws. Make sure the sides are fastened to the fronts as shown in the illustration, or
the gables will not fit.
Three inches up from the bottom of the cedar box is the line where the gable is to be
attached. By setting the box and gable upright on a flat surface, the two pieces will
self-align. Make sure the gable is centered over the entry hole. Add glue to the back of
the gable and attach it to the cedar box with 1-1/2-inch casing nails.
The roof consists of two parts, the support for the wood lattice and the lattice itself.
For the support roof cut two pieces 12-1/4-inches by 12-inches from the12-inch wide
trim board. On the 12-inch end cut a 45-degree miter on each board or use a butt joint.
Attach one roof piece at a time. Center the first piece on the gable /box assembly. Glue
and nail the roof piece to the pine gable using 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Align the second
piece with the first and attach it to the gable. You now have a solid base for attaching
the wood lattice.
You can purchase readymade wood lattice in 8-foot lengths at your local home
improvement store and stain it with a semi-transparent cedar stain. If you own a table
saw you can fabricate your own lattice from cedar stock.
The trim shown on the front is cut from cedar scrap. Cut a few lengths 1/2-inch wide by
1/4-inch thick and least 9-inches long. Measure the strips to fit and cut the required
angle cuts with a coping saw. Attach the cedar trim strips to the gable with glue and
3/4-inch brads.
To complete the assembly, cut the access base to the dimensions shown in the
illustration. Cut four 1-1/4-inch square blocks and fasten them to the base with

construction adhesive. Drill two pilot holes in the base for the screw connection for
fastening the base to the nest box. For the screw attachment use the two #8, 1-1/2-inch
zinc-coated Phillips-head screws. The screws can easily be removed for routine
maintenance.
At the center point of the roof, attach finial # 10 with construction adhesive. Paint or
stain the finished birdhouse to suit your taste. I suggest you coat all the exposed cedar,
with an exterior clear sealer to accentuate the wood's natural color.

Assembly Diagram

Board
and
Batten
Shingle
House
The
name of
this
house
derives
from the
roof
design,
made
from
crude,
cedar
shingles
normally
used as
leveling
shims. It
is
the
only
project
in this
book that has a roosting shelf and the last in a series of three that uses same basic cedar box.
However, this design is not as simple as the other two designs and relies on accurate measurements
and a good deal of patience.
Cutting List
Description
Qty
Size
Cut From
Gable
2
1 x 7-1/2 x 15
1 x 10 pine
Roof (base)
2
1/2 x 11-1/4 x 12
1/2 x 12 trim board

Roosting Shelf
1
1 x 7-3/4 x 15-1/2
1 x 10 cedar
Side
2
1 x 6 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 cedar
Base
1
1 x 6-1/2 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 cedar
Front
2
1x5x8
1 x 6 cedar
Blocks
4
1 x 1-1/4 x 1-1/4
scrap cedar
Other Items: purchased cedar shims for roof shingles, 4 feet of 1/2-inch wood dowel, PVC
predator guard and Finial # 9 (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box P49)
.
Instructions
Layout and cut the basic cedar box pieces and gables according to the illustrations
shown below with the saw of your choice and drill the 1-1/2-inch entry holes with a
spade bit.

Figure 1
To assemble the box, use exterior waterproof glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails or trim
screws. Make sure the sides are fastened to the fronts as shown in the illustration or the
gables will not fit.
Three inches up from the bottom of the cedar box is the line where the gable is to be
attached. It is critical that the gable be attached at this line and the top of the box and
not protrude beyond the slope of the gable, if it does the roof will not fit properly.
Fasten the gables to the cedar box with glue and casing nails.
The next step is to cut the required piece for the roosting shelf. There cannot be any
mistakes, so if you have a table saw now would be the time to use it. If not, use a jig
saw with a properly clamped guide.

Refer to the roosting shelf diagram below for the proper location of the 1/2-inch
dowel holes, center cutout, and dimensions.

Figure 2
To attach the gable/box assembly to the roosting shelf, spread glue on the underside of
the cedar box and place it directly over the 5-inch square hole. From the underside of
the roosting shelf, permanently screw the cedar box to the shelf with 1-1/2-inch trim
screws.
Now here is a neat trick. Instead of trying to cut each dowel to the exact length, it is
easier to insert the dowels from the bottom through the 1/2-inch pre-drilled holes and
cut off any excess. Remember to allow for the thickness of the roosting shelf. I also
suggest you paint the dowels before you insert them and when they are half way up, add
a bead of glue to each top. Push the dowel up firmly against the underside of the gable
and make sure it is straight.
Now turn your attention to the roof. The roof consists of two parts; the support for the
shingles, made with 12-inch trim board, and the shingles themselves. Start by cutting
two pieces 11-1/4-inches by 12-inches from the 12-inch wide trim board. Cut a 45degree miter on the short end of each roof piece for joining the boards at the top of the
gable. Attach one trim board at a time to the pine gable using glue and 1-1/2-inch
casing nails.

Completed Board and Batten Shingle House mounted on a 4" x 4" post.

With the support roof in place, you are ready to add the shingles. From the bundle of
rough shingles, select those that have a similar profile with approximately the same
tapered thickness. You will need eight equal sections to cover the two roof surfaces.
Cut the shingles into 3-inch wide by 11-1/2-inch long sections. The thickest part of the
taper should align with the peak of the gable. Cut the thicker tapered end of the shingle
at a 45-degree angle for a snug fit at the peak.
Glue and nail each 3-inch shingle section, side by side, across the 12-inch width of the
roof using 5/8-inch brads. From your shingle bundle select one good piece, and cut it
into 1/2-inch wide strips 12-inches long. You will need six strips. Miter the thinner
end of the 1/2-inch strip at a 45-degree angle where it meets the gable peak. Glue and
nail the strips over the seams of the shingles to create a board and batten effect.

Trim out the front edge of the gable with shingle strips 1/2-inch wide by 1/4-inch thick
and fasten them to the gable with glue and1/2-inch brads. Complete the roof by
attaching the #9 finial over
the center batten strip with construction adhesive.
To complete the assembly, cut the removable base to the dimensions
shown in the illustration. Add the four 1-1/4-inch square blocks to the base with
construction adhesive. Drill two pilot holes in the base to correspond to the cedar box
above for the #8, 1-1/2-inch zinc-coated Phillips -head screws for easy removal and
routine maintenance. Referring to the project photo, attach the 3/4-inch PVC
predator guard segment over the entry hole with construction adhesive. Complete the
trim on the gable front by attaching 1/4-inch square wood stock from the predator
guard, around the perimeter of the archway and edge of the gable. Brush on two coats
of exterior clear sealer to accentuate the natural color of the cedar parts. Paint the
columns and gable in a contrasting color, preferably white.

Assembly Diagram

YOUR
CHOICE
I
call
this
project
your
choice. You are
encouraged to
create your own
design on the
two fronts using
repetitive
shapes.
Browsing
art
and craft shops,
you can find an
array of wood
parts to create
your
own
personal panel
design,
toy
parts,
game
pieces,
stars,
hearts, nautical
shapes,
or
choose from a
vast array of
ready-made
wooden items.
Better yet, make your own unique shapes.
Cutting List
Description
Roof
2
Base
1

Qty
Size
3/4 x 7-1/2 x 9-1/4
3/4 x 7-3/4 x 7-3/4

Cut From
1 x 10 pine
1 x 10 pine

Front
2
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 10-1/2
1 x 8 pine
Side
2
3/4 x 5 x 7-1/4
1 x 8 pine
Trim Bar
2
1/2 x 5/8 x 9
scrap pine
Blocks
4
3/4 x1-1/4 square
scrap pine
L-shape Trim
16
1/2 x 1-3/4 square
16 long strip poplar
Predator Guard
2
3/4 x 3 x 4
scrap pine
Other Items: Finial # 12 (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box P49)
Instructions
Layout the project with a carpenter's square. Cut all pieces with the saw of your
choice. If you use a jigsaw, the cutting will be easier. Drill entry holes in each front
with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit, and the air holes in the side pieces with a 1/2-inch brad
point bit as shown below.

Assemble the box by fastening the fronts to the sides as indicated using glue and 1-1/2inch casing nails.
Now assemble the roof, one section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.
The roof is 9-1/4-inches long, which allows for a 1-3/8" overhang on each front.
Repeat for the second roof section using glue at the peak joint and glue on the sloped
gables; attach with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Make a tight joint at the peak using a miter
cut or a butt joint.
Over each entry hole, attach the predator guard with glue, and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.
Directly below the predator guard, fasten the trim bar so it touches the sloped roof on
both sides. Use glue and 1-inch brads.
The panel left beneath the trim bar is for the illustrated one-shape pattern or one of

your choice. From scrap wood, cut the four 1-1/4-inch blocks and attach them to the
bottom of the 7-3/4-inch square base with construction adhesive.
Position the base beneath the box so it corresponds to the sides. Turn the box upside
down and drill pilot holes through the base to engage the sides. Temporarily attach the
base with the two 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws. The base should remain
removable for maintenance. Do not glue it to the sides.
Now it is Your Choice . You can fabricate the L-shaped pieces as illustrated
from1/2-inch thick poplar 8 pieces for each front. On the other hand, you can browse
art and craft stores and purchase pieces to suit your taste.
If you decide on ready-made pieces, keep it simple, the challenge is to create a design
with just one shape.
Whatever you decide, I suggest that you paint the blank space first and then add the
pieces with construction adhesive. It would be too difficult to paint around several
small pieces unless you have a "well-trained" hand that can accomplish the task. Add
the finial and paint the birdhouse in contrasting colors using paint like BEHR Premium
Plus Ultra interior/exterior paint and primer.

Assembly Diagram

ROOSTING
BOX
Roosting boxes
are as crucial to
birds survival
in
inclement
weather, as a
nest box is
during
the
mating season.
A
birdhouse
offers
some
protection, but
due
to
its
limited
size,
lack of interior
perches,
and
holes
for
ventilation, they
are unsuitable.
A roosting box
only requires
one entry hole,
located at floor
level, to allow
heat to rise and
stay within the
box. Equipped with staggered interior perches more birds can be accommodated, allowing them to
cling together to share body heat.
Cutting List
Description
Front
1

Qty
Size
3/4 x 11 x 11-1/4

Cut From
1 x 12 pine

Back
1
3/4 x 11 x 11-1/4
1 x 12 pine
Side
2
3/4 x 6-3/4 x 10-1/2
1 x 8 pine
Base/Floor
1
3/4 x 7-3/4 x 11
1 x 8 pine
Roof
2
3/4 x 9-1/2 x 11-1/4
1 x 12 pine
Mounting Brackets
2
3/4 x 2 x 3-1/2
scrap pine
Dowel Rod
1
1/2 x 12
stock poplar
Dowels
5
1/4 x 4-3/4
stock poplar
Trim Block
1
3/4 x 2-1/2 square
scrap pine
Trim Block
1
3/4 x 3 square
scrap pine
Other Items: Finial # 5 (Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box P49) ; two 11-1/4-inch stainless
steel "piano" hinges.
Instruction
Using a carpenters combination square, layout the front, back,
base/floor and sides as indicated.

Figure 1
You can cut all the basic box pieces with a handsaw or jigsaw
including the 45-degree cuts. The small curve shown at the front end of the sidepieces
can be sanded or cut to shape. For the roof sections cut a 45-degree miter in each, and
then strike a line, lengthwise 4-inches down from the miter, and cut roof sections into
two pieces along the 4-inch line. This is where the hinged flap occurs.
Referring to figure 3, drill the entry hole as indicated 1-1/2-inches
from the bottom of the front piece. Cut out the crosshatched portion with a jig saw to
complete the entry hole.
Finish cutting the larger trim pieces - the 2-12-inch and 3-inch
square trim blocks, the mounting brackets and the hole guard. For the hole guard you
will need a pencil compass for the layout. Drill and cut the entry hole as you did in the

front piece. The two openings should match exactly.

Before you assemble the roosting box, pay attention to laying out the
interior wall with the roosting perches. Drill 1/4-inch holes at the locations indicated
for the perches. Drill the holes about 3/8 of an inch deep. Insert glue in each hole and
firmly seat the five 1/4-inch round x 4-3/4-inch long dowels. From a 6-inch square
piece of window screen, cut a 45-degree triangle to fit between the perches for the
birds to climb on. Attach the screen with ordinary metal staples.
Refer back to the basic box diagram below and note how the sides
are to be flush with the back piece, which allows the sides to extend beyond the front
face. Also, note that the roofline extends 3/4-inch beyond the back. You can drill the
3/8-inch holes in the sides for the dowel bar now or after assembly.

Figure 2
Now attach the sides by aligning their miter edge with the slope of
the gables so they form a continuous slope. Remember, the sides are to be flush with
the back and will extend beyond the base at the front. This alignment will allow the
sides to extend beyond the base/floor. Apply glue to the vertical edge of the gables and
two sides of the base. With 1-1/2-inch trim screws attach the pieces together. That
should complete the basic box as illustrated in the basic box diagram.
Cut the continuous hinges to fit the length of the roof flap with a
metal cutting blade and jigsaw. Attach the hinge to the flap making sure the knuckle of
the hinge is above the edge of the wood flap or it will bind. Screws are provided with
the hinge when purchased. Now attach the other side of the hinge to the fixed section of
roof. Check the spacing of the knuckle. Repeat for the second flap.

Drill a pilot hole in each movable flap so it engages the side. This
is for the # 8 screw that temporarily closes the flap. Now widen the hole in the flaps to
receive the 3/8-inch screw button cap to prevent rust. With the roof assembled, attach
the 3-inch square block directly under the peak with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.
Attach the 2-1/2-inch block over the 3-inch one as indicated, and complete the
assembly by fastening the 1-1/4-inch half ball with glue and a 1-inch brad.
Over the entry hole, attach the hole guard with glue and 1-1/2-inch
casing nails. If you did not drill the 3/8-inch holes in each end of the sides for the 3/8inch perch dowel do it now. Tap the dowel all the way through both holes until it
reaches the outer end of the opposite side. Cut off any excess.
Attach the brackets to the underside of the floor with glue and screws drilled at an
angle to the floor. Make sure you leave at least 3-1/2-inches between the brackets for
mounting on a 4-inch square post
Construct finial #5 and attach it at the midpoint of the roof with
construction adhesive.
Paint the roosting box in contrasting colors of your choice,
preferably more muted with colorful accents to blend with the natural environment.

Figure 3

Assembled roosting box prior to final painting

STICKS
and

BLOCKS
Sticks and blocks are used to create a design theme that embellishes a basic 30-degree gabled box.
The sticks are 1/4-inch square ready-made poplar strips purchased from a home improvement
store. The feet, added to the legs, are 1-inch wooden thread spools.
Cutting List

Description
Qty
Size
Cut From
Front
2
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 15-1/2
1 x 8 pine
Side
2
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 11
1 x 8 pine
Base
1
3/4 x 6 x 6-1/2
1 x 8 pine
Roof
2
3/4 x 4 x 8
1 x 6 pine
Air Hole Covers
6
1/4 x 1-1/4 Sq.
1/4 thick poplar (A)
Trim
3
1/4 x 1/4 x 36
1/4-inch poplar strips (C)
Other Items: Finial #2 P49; Two, 2-1/2-inch square entry hole predator guards (B).
Instructions
For your layout, follow the dimensions given in the cutting list and
those indicated below.

Figure 1
You will note from the previous illustration that the two fronts have
identical dimensions but the entry hole and trim are reversed so both holes line up.
This is intended, so the front trim bands continue around one side only. There are no
bands on the opposite side but the air holes and covers are identical
Layout the required pieces with a carpenters combination square
and 30-degree drafting triangle. Do not layout the 1/4-inch trim at this time. Layout the
air hole covers in a row on one piece of 1/4-inch poplar and drill the air holes with a
1/2-inch bit before you cut the squares to size. Cut the fronts and sides with your tool
of choice. Cut, and drill the predator guards at this time. Use a 1-1/2-inch spade bit to

drill your entry hole. Leave the finial for later. Also do not cut the bands of 1/4-inch
square trim until later; it is best to custom cut these pieces as you fit them
Assemble the box by gluing one front to the two sides. Nail the
pieces together with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Glue and nail the second front, making
sure the two entry holes are directly opposite one another. With your carpenter's
square, make sure the corners are square; otherwise, the roof will be out of line.
Refer to the roof-cutting diagram for the four 30-degree miter cuts
required to join roof to the gabled box. If you own a table saw I suggest you use it. You
can make these cuts with a jigsaw from a piece of wood larger than required if you can
clamp it to a solid work surface. Attach the roof pieces to the gable and sides with glue
and 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Attach one section at a time. After the box is assembled,
center the base under the sides and drill two pilot holes for temporarily attaching the
base to the sides with 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws. This screw connection
allows for removal of the base for maintenance
Fasten the air hole covers over the 1/2-inch holes with glue and
3/4-inch brads. Attach the entry hole guards with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.
With your carpenters combination square, make sure the guards are straight and level,
then pencil in the location of the 1/4-inch square trim pieces. Note the trim
dimensions work off the square predator block.
Paint the surface in contrasting colors before adding the 1/4-inch
trim and let your pencil layout show through for attaching the trim. Glue the trim in
place and carefully fasten with thin 3/4-inch brads. Center finial # 2 at the midpoint of
the roof and attach with construction adhesive. Attach the wooden thread spools to the
legs with glue and countersunk screws.

Assembly Diagram

PADDLE HOUSE
Small but versatile; that pretty much describes the paddle house. With its paddle-type back it can
be attached to a tree, screwed to the side of the house, or surface- mounted to a wood post. It also
features a removable base for mounting it to the top of a wood, metal, or PVC post. The paddle
house is a variation of a 30-degree gable house, but in this case, it features two gables one in front
of the other. The inner gable is part of the basic box; the outer gable is an enhancement, adding a

nice design touch to the whole assembly. This nesting box is easy to build, but it does take a bit of
concentration to make sure all the pieces are properly cut to fit.
Cutting List
Description
Roof
2
Front
1
Back
1
Side
Base
1
Gable
1
Embellishment

Qty
Size
Cut From
3/4 x 7-1/4 x 7-3/8
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 5-1/2 x 12-1/4
1 x 6 pine
3/4 x 5-1/2 x 12-3/4
1 x 6 pine
2
3/4 x 4-1/2 x 7-1/2
1 x 6 pine
3/4 x 5-1/4 x 4-1/2
1 x 6 pine
3/4 x 3-1/2 x 12
1 x 4 pine
1
1/4 square x 10-1/2
stock poplar

Instructions
Carefully layout the basic box pieces according to the dimensions listed in Figure 1 and Figure 2.

Figure 1

Figure 2
Cut the required pieces with your tool of choice. Straight crosscuts can be made with a
handsaw; miters are best achieved with a jigsaw. Drill the entry hole as indicated with
a 1-1/2-inch spade bit, and the air holes with a 1/2-inch spade bit. Attach the front to
the sides, with glue, and 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Make sure the bevel of the sides align
with the slope of the front gable so the roof fits properly. To attach the back lay the
front face down on a flat surface. Spread glue on the ends of the two sides. Nail the
back to each side with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Refer to the photo to make sure you
leave a 3/4-inch space for the base to fit under the box.
Fasten the front outer gable to the box with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Make sure
the two gables align as indicated in the Assembly Diagram. Attach the back to the sides
from behind with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.
Attach one roof section at a time making sure the miter is directly in line with the peak.
Fasten each roof section to the side, gables, and back with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing
nails. For the gable trim, you will need a section of cove molding at least 15-inches
long. Miter two equal length pieces so they join at the peak. Glue and nail each piece
with 3/4-inch brads to the end of the gable, flush with the roof edge.
Cut seven, 1-1/2-inch pieces of 1/4-inch square stock for the front. Attach the small
pieces starting 1/2-inch in from the front edge and1-1/8-inch down from the bottom of
the outer gable. Glue each piece to the surface with construction adhesive; allowing a
3/8-inch space between.
Set the base under the box so it corresponds with the sides. Drill two pilot holes in the
base to engage the sides. These holes are for the 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws to
allow the base to be detached for maintenance. Paint the project in the colors of your

choice.

Assembly Diagram

RECYCLED
TRIANGLES
This project is
another in the
integral gable
series.
However,
in
designing this
project I was
interested
in
recycling
the
left
over
triangles
cut
from the gables,
so I decided to
use them as a
basis for a new
form, taking the
basic box to
another level.
This
project
appears more
complex
to
build than it is;
it just takes a
little
more
patience and concentration.
Cutting List
Description
Front
2
Side
2
Roof
2

Qty
Size
Cut From
3/4 x 7-1/4 x 14-1/4
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 5-3/4 x 6
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 7-1/4 x 14-1/2
1 x 8 pine

Base
1
3/4 x 5-3/4 x 7
1 x 8 pine
Other Items: Refer to Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box.
(A) Half round molding 8-inches long
(B) Cove molding 5 feet long
(C) Trim 1/4 x 1/4 x 48-inches stock poplar (D) 4 pieces of screen molding 4-1/2
inches long
(E) 2 pieces of half rounds 4-inches each (F) 4 pieces of # 4 chair rail
(G) M3 handmade molding12-inches long (H) 4 pieces of #1 chair rail

Figure 1
Instructions
Layout the required pieces for the 60-degree gable box according to the dimensions in the above
diagram using a carpenter's square and a 60-degree drafting triangle.
With your tool of choice carefully cut the gables to achieve clean straight edges
especially on the triangular pieces that you want to recycle. Drill the entry holes as
indicated, with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit and the side air holes with a 1/2-inch spade bit.
This is a two-front box with both fronts identical. Assemble the basic box with glue
and 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Cut 3/4-inch off the bottom of each recycled triangle
making the lengths 5-1/2-inches, and then attach the recycled triangles - gable pieces with glue as shown in Figure 2. Secure the triangles to each side with a 1-1/2-inch trim
head screw located 1-1/2-inches from the top of the triangle.
The peak of the roof joint on this project is a bit tricky. It is a "flat miter" cut to receive
the flat side of a half-round piece as shown in the following illustration.
Cutting the Flat Miter

Cut
one roof section with a 30-degree miter and attach it to the gable. Align the second roof
section with the first and cut off the excess to create a flat surface. To achieve the flat
miter, cut the left leg, shown in C above, straight across.

Make sure the roof sections fit properly before attaching them to the gables. Attach one
roof section at a time with glue and 1-1/2-ich casing nails. Glue and nail the second
section. The roof should be flush with the front face of each gable.
Position the base at the bottom of the box so it corresponds with the sides. Drill a pilot
hole in each edge of the base so it engages the sides. These holes are for the 1-1/2-inch
# 8 Phillips screws that attach the removal base to the box for easy maintenance. Now
add the finial.
Add 1-inch wood balls to each leg with glue and 1-1/12-inch casing nails driven
through predrilled holes. Now it is time to add the enhancements by following the
exploded illustration, figure 2, and the letter key for the items to be added.

Figure 2

SPONGE and
STENCIL
This
design
combines
sponge painting
with stenciling
as part of the
special
top
series
in
Variation
3.
This is a very
simple project
with all the
basic
pieces
laid out on one
size board. The
box is easy to
assemble, and
crowned with
an off-the-shelf
copper
post
cap. The fun
part is adding
texture with a
sponge,
and
trying your hand
at stenciling using the pattern provided. With a little help from mom or dad, this is a great project
for kids on a rainy weekend.
Cutting List
Description
Front
2

Qty
Size
3/4 x 5-1/2 x 13-1/2

Cut From
1 x 6 pine

Side
2
3/4 x 4-1/8 x 9-1/2
1 x 6 pine
Base
1
3/4 x 4 x 5-1/4
1 x 6 pine
Copper Post Cap
1
8 x 8 outside dimension
purchased
Wooden Balls
4
1-inch round
purchased
Other Items: Provided stencil pattern.
Instructions
Layout the pieces for the basic box to the dimensions indicated in the illustration below
using a carpenter's square. Cut the pieces with your tool of choice. Following the
dimensions as shown, drill an entry hole in each front with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit. This
box is a two- front box with both fronts identical. Attach the two fronts to the sides
using glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Figure 1
For the sponge painting technique, apply a base coat of BEHR Premium Plus Ultra
interior/exterior paint with a brush or 4-inch sponge roller in the color of your choice;
a medium shade of blue/green works well. Let the base coat dry thoroughly.
Pour about two ounces of metallic copper glaze onto a plastic plate - the glaze can be
purchased from a home improvement store in the paint department. Wet a sea sponge
with water and squeeze it out so it is moist but not dripping. Dip the sponge into the
glaze, loading it evenly. Then lightly dab it on a paper towel to remove any excess
paint.
Apply the glaze by dabbing in a random fashion to avoid a static, repetitive look,
turning the sponge from time to time. Dab some areas a bit more firmly. Cover the
entire surface of the box and let it dry thoroughly before completing the remaining

steps.
Stenciling

1. Enlarge the stencil pattern to the size indicated. Place the enlargement on a level
cutting mat and tape a piece of clear stenciling plastic securely over the design.
2. Carefully cut the design with a craft-type knife with a sharp pointed blade.
3. Spray the backside of the cut stencil with stencil adhesive for a flat, even contact
and adhere it to the box so it laps over the front as illustrated.
4. Darken the paint used for the box and place a shallow amount in a bowl or on a
plate. Dip a small sponge paint roller in the paint, making sure to test the amount
of paint on the roller to avoid spreading and smearing. Roll over the stencil in one,
even, smooth stroke.

Figure 2
When the stencil is completely dry, attach the copper post cap by squirting a bead of
caulk, or construction adhesive, around the inner rim of the post cap. Position the cap
over the box and press down firmly until it stops. If pressed evenly, the cap should
self-align.
Cut two, 2-1/2 predator donuts using the method illustrated in
Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box. Paint the predator guards and attach to both fronts
with construction adhesive.
Cut the base to the size indicated. Position the base underneath the box to correspond

with the sides. Drill two pilot holes to engage the base and the box. Temporarily insert
the two 1-1/2-inch Phillips-head screws. Do not permanently attach the base. The
screw connection allows for removal of the base for maintenance.

Assembly Diagram

/PINSTRIPES
This project is similar to the Sponge and Stencil project. However, it uses more trim pieces and
features a paint combing technique with metallic glaze. The glaze and "paint comb" may be
purchased from a home improvement store or paint store. The paint comb has notched edges. A
variety of lines, cross hatching, swirls or other textures are possible, but for this project, we will
use traditional pinstripes.

Cutting List
Description
Qty
Size
Cut From
Front
2
3/4 x 5-1/2 x 13-1/2
1 x 6 pine
Side
2
3/4 x 4-1/8 x 11-1/2
1 x 6 pine
Base
1
3/4 x 4 x 5-1/4
1 x 6 pine
Copper Post Cap
1
8 x 8 Square
purchased
Trim
2
1/4 x 3/4 x 8
poplar
Wooden Balls
4
1-inch round
purchased
Other Items: Two, 3/4-inch sections of 3-1/2-inch diameter PVC tube cut in halves.
Predator Guard: Two 2-1/2-inch predator donuts (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box)
Instructions
Layout the pieces for the basic box to the dimensions indicated in the illustration
below using a carpenter's square. Cut the pieces with your tool of choice and drill an
entry hole in each front with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit. Attach the two fronts to the sides
with glue and 1-1/2-inch nails.

Figure 1
Drill the air slots with a 1/2-inch spade bit at each end of the slot and cut the remainder
of the slot with a jigsaw.
For the pinstripe glaze, apply a base coat of bright blue BEHR Premium Plus Ultra
interior/exterior paint with a brush or a 4-inch sponge roller. Cover the four surfaces of
the box and let the base coat dry thoroughly.
Pour about two ounces of metallic copper glaze onto a plastic plate the glaze can be

purchased from a home improvement store. Apply the metallic glaze over base coat
with a 4-inch roller or brush. Do not overload the brush or roller or the glaze will run.
Do one side at a time. Using a paint comb, with medium sized notches, comb from top
to bottom in one consistent stroke. To maintain an even pinstripe effect, start the next
downward stroke using the last stripe line as your guide.
When the glaze is completely dry, attach the copper post cap by squirting a bead of
caulk, or construction adhesive, around the inner rim of the post cap. Position the cap
over the box and press down firmly until it stops. If pressed evenly, the cap should
self-align
Cut the two predator donuts and the 3/4-inch PVC sections. Cut two lengths of wood
stock 1/4-inch thick x 3/4-inch deep x 9-inches long for the front vertical trim. You
will need to cut these pieces exactly, for a custom fit prior to fastening.
Drill pilot holes in all the wood balls and attach them to the legs with glue and 1-1/2"
casing nails. Paint the predator donuts, wood balls, post cap rim, and PVC sections as
shown in a color of your choice before attaching them to the surface with construction
adhesive. Do likewise with the vertical wood strips that are best placed just after you
fasten the predator donut.
Cut the base to the size indicated. Position the base underneath the box to correspond
with the sides. Drill two pilot holes to engage the base and the box. Temporarily insert
the two 1-1/2-inch Phillips-head screws. Do not permanently attach the base. The
screw connection allows for removal of the base for maintenance.

Assembly Diagram

THREE
One

for

This box is
sized for the
Eastern
and
Western
Screech Owl,
the
Northern
Flicker
and
American
Kestrel.
However, if you
build solely to
attract screech
owls you may
never see one,
because
their
nocturnal
activity often
starts 20 to 30
minutes
after
sunset. Screech
owls are petite
creatures that
do not screech
unless agitated,
so they may be
living in your neighborhood unnoticed. When setting out an owl box, place 2 to 3 inches of dried
leaves or pine wood shavings in the bottom of the box. Screech Owls do not gather nesting
materials. This is a single-front box with a front drop down flap for cleaning and maintenance.
Cutting List
Description

Qty

Size

Cut From

Side
2
3/4 x 11-1/4 x 19
1 x 12 pine
Roof
2
3/4 x 7-1/8 x 11-1/4
1 x 12 pine
Plateau Top
1
3/4 x 4 x 11-1/4
1 x 12 pine
Front & Back
2
3/4 x 9-1/4 x 22-1/4
1 x 10 pine
Base / Floor
1
3/4 x 9-1/4 x 10-1/2
1 x 10 pine
Half Circle
1
1/4 x 5 x 9-1/4
1/4-inch flat stock poplar
Entry Hole Guard
1
3/4 x 4-3/4 x 4-3/4
scrap pine
Other Items: 2-1/4-inch half rounds and M1 molding (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box)
Instructions
Layout sides, base/floor, front and back according to the figure 1 and the cutting list.
For the front and back, you will require a 30-60-degree drafting triangle and carpenters
square. Cut the pieces with the tool of your choice.

Figure 1
Continue laying out and cutting the roof, plateau top, entry hole
guard and handmade molding M1. (Do not assemble at this point). The M1 Trim is
a handmade trim you can fabricate. See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box.

For the 3-inch entry hole in the front panel, drill a starter hole for
your jigsaw, and cut the circle following the outline made with a pencil compass. Cut a
matching hole in the 4-3/4-inch square entry hole guard the same way you cut the entry

hole, only make sure the piece is clamped to a solid surface. Now draw a horizontal
line across the front piece 9-1/4-inches up from its bottom. Cut the front piece into two
parts and lay the bottom half to the side for now.
Referring to exploded diagram figure 2, proceed to make the
cutouts and radius cuts in the bottom portion of both sides as illustrated, as well as the
miters for the two roof sections. These cuts are best accomplished with a jigsaw.
However, the miters would be easier to make with a table saw if you have one. Drill
the air holes in the sides as indicated with a 1/2-inch spade bit and cut each slot
vertically with a jigsaw.
Before you assemble the box, lay the sides on a flat surface with
the inside facing you. The sides are to be offset from the front and back by 3/8inch.Therefore, draw a vertical line 3/8 of an inch in from the front and back edges on
both sidepieces to establish the location of the front and back offset.
To assemble the nesting box, spread a bead of glue along the
edges of the back piece. Set the alignment before you drive a nail near the bottom of
the side. Then continue nailing the upper portion of the front. Align the front, back with
one side as indicated in the basic box diagram using your vertical 3/8-inch setback line
as your guide. Nail the three pieces together with 1-1/2-inch casing nails
Once you are sure your vertical alignment. Attach the second side
in like manner. Clamp the four pieces together.
Carefully slip the floor between the sides so it aligns as shown in
the diagram. The bottom of the floor should align with the top edge of the cut out side.
Run a bead of glue on the edge of the sides and back of the floor and nail the floor in
place with 1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Figure 2
Glue and nail the roof sections in place. Add the two 2-1/4-inch
half circles to the plateau top and then glue and nail the assembly to the roof sections.
Round off the corners of the entry hole guard and attach it to the front with glue and 1inch brads. Leave the M1 trim, half circle design and drop down flap until after the
box is complete.
To replicate the design of the half circle for the front flap, enlarge
the graphic to the size indicated at your local copy shop or on your home inkjet printer.

Tape the half circle copy face down on a 1/4-inch board that is
larger than what is required. Leave a 3/4-inch space at the top of the design for
mounting the M1 molding. With the backside of the design facing you, run a hot iron
over the copy to reactivate the toner, transferring the design to your board. You should
now have an exact copy of the design on the board. Cut out the design with the 3/4-inch
space above it for the M1 trim.
Add the M1 molding to the half circle in the 3/4-inch space above
the design. Paint the half-circle design in the colors of your choice before attaching it
to the drop down flap.
Attach the drop down flap with a stainless steel 1-1/2 inch "piano
hinge". Using the screws provided with the hinge, secure one edge to the bottom of the
flap the other to the top of the floor so only the knuckle of the hinge is visible. The
entire front face should now align in one plane.
Add L-hooks to the edge of the box to engage the flap when it
closes. Paint the project in contrasting colors of your choice.

Did you know?

Screech owls usually live at lower elevations, preferring open fields, clearings, and
meadows to hunt their prey. Although equipped with unusual enhancements for hunting, it
is a myth that owls see in the dark. Their prominent facial disk acts like a parabolic
reflector to concentrate sound, allowing them to locate their prey in dim light. Screech owls
have a single brood per season. They are faithful incubators, and often refuse to leave the
nest even when disturbed.
The Northern Flicker may also inhabit a box made for owls. The flicker is a large
woodpecker, often found in open areas foraging for insects at ground level. The flicker
prefers ants and in one study, over 3,000 were found in the stomach of a single bird do
not ask me who counted them. They too usually produce one brood a year, and sometimes
two, in warm climates.
The American Kestrel is the smallest, most common falcon found in North America. The
kestrel is often referred to as a sparrow hawk. This is a misnomer because its diet does not
consist entirely of sparrows, nor is the kestrel a hawk. Like the Screech Owl and Northern
Flicker, it too prefers open country and can often be spotted perched on wires along an
open road.

THE
TEMPLE
Years ago,
while
undertaking

architectural research on the Yucatan Peninsula, I had the good fortune to visit several ancient
Mayan sites. I was particularly fascinated with the temple structures square in form, deep-set
doorways, and surfaces adorned with richly carved ornament. It is strange how memories linger,
and in some respects, I link this design to my Mayan experience.
Cutting List

Description
Qty
Size
Cut From
Platform
1
3/4 x 10-1/2 x 10-1/2
1 x 12 pine
Front
2
3/4 x 8 x 8-3/8
1 x 10 pine
Base
1
3/4 9-1/2 x 9-1/2
1 x 10 pine
Side
2
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 8-3/8
1 x 10 pine
Roof
2
3/4 x 7 x 11-1/4
1 x 8 pine
Set Back Doorway
2
3/4 x 4 x 6-3/4
1 x 6 pine
Gable
2
3/4 x 3 x 10-1/2
1 x 4 pine
Other Items: Finial # 13, P- 49, See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box and refer to the letter
designation for the placement of the various surface enhancements listed in the text under Trim.
Concept
The Temple is a two front house, simple in form, essentially an 8-inch square box with a setback
doorway containing a 1-1/2-inch entry hole. It is one of the special top projects composed of a
10-1/2-inch platform with a 30-degree gable attached to each end. The square platform overhangs
the 8-inch square box 1-1/4-inch on all sides giving a basic box a different look. Once you
understand the basic concept, adding all the enhancements is the fun part.

Figure 1
Instructions
Layout the basic pieces for the project referring to the illustration and the cutting list
using a carpenter's square and a 30-60-degree drafting triangle. Cut the various pieces
with the tool of your choice.
For the archway on the two front surfaces, use the hole saw with a 2-1/2-inch blade to
cut the circular portion. Complete the archway using a coping saw or jigsaw. Next,
drill the air holes in the sidepieces as shown with a 1/2-inch spade bit. In each setback
doorway piece, drill the entry hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit. Make sure the entry

hole is at the proper height and spacing before you start drilling or it will be
misaligned when you attach it to the front. Attach the setback doorways to the backside
of each front as shown with glue and 1-1/4-inch brads. Make sure the doorway is
properly centered in the archway opening.
Next, attach the fronts to the
sides with glue and 1-1/2-inch, casing nails. Make sure the corners of the box are
square, you can check them with your carpenter's square.
Attach the gabled platform in two steps. First, spread a bead of glue along the top
edges of the box, position the platform over the box allowing a 1-1/4-inch overhang on
all four sides. Nail the platform in place with 1-1/2-inch, casing nails. Next, glue each
gable to front edge of the platform and secure with 1-1/2-inch, casing nails driven at an
angle at the shallow end of the slope to engage the platform.
Add the roof sections, one at a time. Spread a bead of glue on half the slope of the two
gables. Fasten the first roof section to the gables allowing a 3/8-inch overhang on the
front of each gable; nail in place with 1-1/2-inch casing nails. Repeat for the second
roof section, only this time, also add a bead of glue along the edge of the roof section
where the two pieces meet at the peak. With the roof sections secure, attach a piece of
1/4-inch square trim to the front edge of each gable with glue and 1/2-inch brads.
Cut the chamfer for the base at a 45-degree angle, preferably with a table saw for
accuracy. Now attach four, 3/4-inch thick by 1-1/4-inch square wood blocks to the
bottom of the chamfered base with construction adhesive. Align the base with the box.
Drill pilot holes through the base to engage the sides of the box. Insert 1-1/2-inch # 8
zinc-coated Phillips-head screws for attaching the removable base for maintenance and
cleaning.
The trim pieces are designated by letters of the alphabet to indicate their location on
the surface of the project. For the individual pieces, see Section 3, Beyond the Basic
Box.

Assembly Diagram

Trim

A 3/4-inch wooden ball half, attached to the center of each gable.

B Chair rail section # 6, 2 pieces 10-1/2-inch long attached to front edge of platform.

C Handmade M4 molding, 4 pieces, each 8-inches in length with 1/2-inch squares of 1/4inch thick poplar attached as indicated making a continuous band around the box.

D Half circle arch, one for each front. Using a pencil compass, draw a 3-1/2-inchdiameter circle on a scrap piece of wood and cut out the circle with a jigsaw. Use a holesaw with a 2-1/2-inch blade to cut out center of the circle, leaving a 1/2-inch thick circular
ring. With a jigsaw, cut the circular ring in half, making two half-circle arches one for
each front.

E Using a coping saw cut four # 7 sections of chair rail molding1/2-inch wide to fit
directly below the arch.

F Cut two 2-5/8-inch pieces of shoe molding for the threshold at the bottom of each
setback doorway.

G - Starting at a point directly below the continuous handmade molding, measure, and cut to
size, 1/4-inch square strips of poplar forming a continuous band around the box. Proceed to
add all the remaining 1/4-inch square strips by following the dimensions shown on the
illustration.

Trim Diagram
Tip: You will note from the photo of the Temple that it is painted in contrasting colors. I suggest
you do likewise in the colors of your choice. However, I have found that it is best to paint your
colors first before you attach the trim pieces, that goes for the M4 molding as well. When you
attach the small, lightweight pieces use glue and thin brads of a proper length to avoid splitting the
wood.

I know this project takes a good deal of time and patience, but it is well worth the trouble.
After all, look at it this way
..."Accept that some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue"
Attributed to David Brent

SWING LOW
SWING
SOFTLY
This is the only
hanging nest box
in the book.
With
the
exception
of
wrens, nesting
birds
are
cautious
and
stay away from
boxes that are
not
stable.
Wrens will use
a hanging box
since movement
does not seem
to bother them,
and they do not
mind
the
presence
of
humans. Wrens
are a favorite of
gardeners
as
their
diet
consists mainly of insects.
Cutting List
Description
Front
2
Side
2

Qty
Side
3/4 x 12 x 14
1 x 14 pine
3/4 x 5 x 5
1 x6 pine

Cut From

Base
1
3/4 x 5 x 6-1/4
1 x 6 pine
Gable Bar
1
3/4 x 1-1/4 x 5
scrap pine
Aluminum Flashing
1
8 x 21
12-inch wide purchased
Entry Hole Guard
1
1/4 x 3 x 8-1/2
1/4-inch thick poplar
Other Items: Finial # 1, (Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box P49)
Instructions
Enlarge the shape below on heavy weight paper or cardstock at
your local copy store. Carefully cut out the shape and trace it twice one for the front,
one for the back. Mark the crosshairs by making a hole with a small nail at each mark
five for the front and four for the back. This is a one-front box, so you only need one
entry hole.

Figure 1
Next, layout and cut the base and two sides. Drill the air holes in the
sides with a 1/2-inch spade bit. Then temporarily attach the base to the sides by
drilling pilot holes through the base to engage the sides. Attach the pieces together
using two 1-1/2-inch # 8 Phillips-head screws. Do not glue the base to the sides.
Draw the screws up tight so the "U-shape" is stable to help you align the front and
back.
Return to the two traced free forms and carefully cut them with a
jigsaw. On the front piece drill the entry hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit at the point of
the crosshair you previously marked. Using a small 1/8-inch drill bit, drill holes all the
way through the remaining cross hair locations on the front and back.
On the backside of each free form, measure 1-inch down from the

bottom pilot hole, on each side and mark a point. Draw a horizontal line connecting the
two points representing the top edge of the base. Next, draw a vertical line connecting
the top and bottom pilot holes for the vertical alignment of the sides. These are your
alignment lines for attaching the sides with its temporary base.
Do not spread glue on the edge of the base, only the two sides.
Using the location lines drawn in the previous step, press the U-shape to the backside
of the front free form. As the glue takes hold, carefully turn the partial assembly over
and drive1-1/2-inch trim screws through the pilot holes previously drilled. Make sure
the trim screws countersink slightly below the surface so the holes can be filled. Add
the backside in like manner.
Refer to the Assembly Diagram. Attach the 5-inch gable bar to the
front and back free form, as indicated, with glue and a 1-1/2-inch trim head screw on
each end. At this point, make sure you can still unscrew the base for maintenance.
Cut a piece of aluminum flashing, with ordinary scissors, to the size
indicated and locate the center point. Place the flashing over the gable bar and proceed
to bend it over bar at the center point using just your hands. It will begin to form a
natural crease matching the 3/4-inch width of the wood bar. When the crease is visible,
remove the flashing, and continue forming the crease by using a 3/4-inch-inch piece of
scrap wood inserted inside the crease. You will find that the shape that results from
folding the metal forms the flare required for attaching the flashing to the free form.
Now spread a thin bead of construction adhesive on the top of the
gable bar and on the flared edges of the free form. Press the metal flashing over the
free form, leaving an equal overhang on the front and back. For stability, nail a 5/8inch brass linoleum nail at each end of the flashing as indicated.
Cut the predator donut, entry hole guard, and assemble the finial.
Glue the predator donut to the entry hole guard and add the 1-1/4-inch half ball. Drill a
hole for the finial, fill it with glue, and insert it. Glue and nail the entry hole assembly
to the front face. Paint the box in
contrasting colors of your choice but leave the flashing in its natural state.

Assembly Diagram

ACORN
This
shape
reminds me of
an acorn. It did
not start out as a
preconception,
it just happened
that way. It is a
free-form
design, based
on the threesided box- two
sides and a
removal base.
The roof is
made from 30gauge
copper
sheet that can be
easily cut with a
pair of scissors.
The
copper
sheet is soft,
subject to dents
and creases, and
must be handled
gently. To offset
this downside, I added wood half rounds over the copper. It adds strength and texture, and makes
the design look even more like an acorn.
Cutting List
Description
Front
2

Qty
Size
3/4 x 8-1/2 x 12-3/4

Cut From
1 x 10 pine

Side
2
3/4 x 5 x 5-3/4
1 x 6 pine
Base
1
3/4 x 5 x 6-1/4
1 x 6 pine
Copper Sheet
1
30-ga. 8-1/2-inch wide
purchased
Applied Arch
2
3/4 x 4-3/4 x 7-1/2
1 x 6 pine
Other Items: Predator Guard (2 required), 14, 8-1/2-inch half- round molding and cove molding
(See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box)

Instructions
Enlarge the acorn shape to the size indicated on heavyweight paper or cardstock. Cut
out the shape with scissors and trace it twice. This is a two-front house. Mark the five
crosshairs on each piece with a nail hole. Now trace two separate arch pieces twice on
a board. Cut out the four shapes with a jigsaw.

On the backside of each front, strike a horizontal line 1-1/2-inches down from the
lowest crosshair mark. This represents the top of the base. Measure up 5-3/4-inch and
strike another horizontal line marking the top of the U-shape assembly.
On the two fronts, at the point marked, drill the entry hole with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.
At the other 4 points, drill holes all the way through using a 1/8-inch bit.
Next layout and cut the base and two sidepieces. Temporarily attach the base to the
sidepieces by drilling pilot holes through the base to engage the sides. Assemble the
pieces with two 1-1/2-inch # 8 Phillips-head screws. Do not glue the base to the
sides. Draw the screws up tight so the "U-shape" is stable.
Now attach the U-shape to one of the fronts by spreading a thin bead of construction
adhesive to vertical edges of the sidepieces and set the U-shape in position according
to your guidelines. Do not spread glue on the edge of the base. As the adhesive takes

hold, carefully turn the partial assembly over and drive 1-1/2-inch trim screws through
the 4 pilot holes allowing the screws to countersink so later on you can fill the holes.
Add the second front in like manner.
Refer to the Assembly Diagram. Attach the arch gables with glue and 1-1/2-inch
casing nails. Cut the cove mold to size and attach it directly below the arch with glue
and 3/4-inch brads. Next, attach the predator guard with glue and 1-1/2-inch nails.
Cut an 8-1/2-inch wide strip of 30-guage copper sheet 14-inches long. Fold the sheet in
half. At the midpoint, use your hands to make a 3/4-inch standing seam using a 3/4-inch
piece of scrap wood as a guide for height.
Spread a thin bead of construction adhesive on the edges of the acorn and pull the
copper sheet firmly over it, to adhere the copper sheet to the wood. To hold the shape,
nail 5/8-inch brass linoleum nails at each end of the copper sheet.
Cut fourteen 1/2-inch half-round molding strips the exact width of the copper sheet.
Paint the strips in a color of your choice and attach the pieces with construction
adhesive and 1-inch brads as illustrated. Space the half-rounds 1/2-inch apart.
Unscrew the base to make sure it was not glued to the sides. It is intended to be
removable for cleaning and maintenance.
Fill the screw holes with exterior wood filler and sand smooth. Paint the project in
contrasting colors of your choice. Leave the copper sheet in its natural state.

Assembly Diagram

Birds live by reading the world in ways we cannot.

"...gifted with extensions of the senses we have lost
Or never attained, living by voices we shall never hear"
Henry Beston, excerpt: The Outermost House

KEY
HOLE
HOUSE
When I finished
making
this
house,
it
reminded me of
a key hole.
Perhaps it is
reminiscent of a
do not disturb
sign that brings
a key hole to
mind. I assure
you the name
has nothing to
do with how the
project
is
constructed. I
guess it is just
one
of
my
quirks.
The
project
is
unique in one
respect
insomuch as it
essentially has
two roofs - one on top and one on the side.
Cutting List
Description
Front
2
Base
1

Qty
Size
3/4 x 7-1/2 x 9-1/4
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 7-1/2

Cut From
1 x 10 pine
1 x 10 pine

Roof
2
3/4 x 7-1/4 x 8
1 x 8 pine
Side
2
3/4 x 1-3/4 x 5
scrap pine
Blocks
4
3/4 x 1-1/4 square
scrap pine
Other Items: One-half of 3-1/2-inch diameter PVC tube 8-inches long, two 8-inch long 1/2-inch
rounds and 21-inches of M2 molding (See Section 3, Beyond the Basic Box)
Instructions
Layout the two fronts and two side roofs and base with a carpenter's square as illustrated in figure
1. Use a pencil compass to layout the arch gable. Follow the dimensions very carefully to arrive at
the proper shape. Cut the pieces with the tool of your choice. (Tip: after you cut the first front,
use it as a template for the second one.)

Figure 1

Next layout and cut the, two small sides, PVC roof, and two entry
hole guards according to the illustration in figure 2. The two small sidepieces require a
45-degree miter on each long edge to fit properly. Excluding the remaining trim, you
should have all the basic pieces cut. Now drill the two fronts and the two entry hole
guards with a 1-1/2-inch spade bit.

Figure 2

Refer to the Assembly Diagram. If everything has been laid out

and cut properly, the assembly is easy. Glue and nail the two small sidepieces to the
fronts using 1-1/2-inch casing nails, aligning the sides with the bottom of the box and
the sloped front. Next, attach the side roof sections with glue and nails allowing for a
3/4-inch extension beyond each front. Make sure the mitered end aligns with the front
as indicated.
Glue the PVC roof section in place with construction adhesive
allowing the roof to overhang 3/4-inch on each front. "Eyeball" it so it sits level.
Attach the two pieces of 1/2-inch half round molding to the edge of the PVC with
construction adhesive.
Complete the base by adding the four 1-1/4-inch corner blocks, cut
from scrap, with construction adhesive. Set the base under the house and align it with
the fronts. Turn the house over and drill two pilot holes through the base to engage
each front. These holes are for the 1-1/2-inch #8 Phillips-head screws, allowing the
base to be easily removed for maintenance. Now add the entry hole guards and M2
molding pieces where indicated. Paint the project in the contrasting colors of your
choice.

Assembly Diagram

FISH
FOWL

or

Some
people
think
this
project
looks
like a fish,
others say it is a
bird. I can see
the similarities,
but I assure you
neither
was
intended. It is
just how the
creative process
operates; you
never
know
what is floating
around in the
subconscious
mind.
This
project is easy
to make. The
unique part is
the
bendable
plywood
that
makes
the
imagined shape a reality.
Cutting List
Description
Side
2
Free Form
Base
1

Qty
Size
Cut From
3/4 x 6-1/2 x 11
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 6 x 6 x 17
1 x 8 pine
3/4 x 6 x 6-3/4
1 x 8 pine

Front
1
Back
1
Trim
1
Instructions

1 x 5-1/2 x 11
3/8 x 9 x 24
1/4 x 1/4 x 36

1 x 6 pine
bendable plywood
stock poplar

Enlarge the free form shape at your local photocopy shop on heavyweight paper or
card stock, figure 1. Cut out the template with scissors or a craft knife. Sparingly tape
the template to the board size indicated and carefully trace around it with a soft pencil.
You may want to cut one shape first and then use it as a template for the second shape.
With a nail, make a small hole in the center of the cross hair to locate the entry hole on
each shape. Cut both shapes with a jigsaw.

Figure 1
Next, layout the three box pieces using a carpenters combination square, figure 2. Cut
the box pieces with your tool of choice. Drill the air holes in the front piece with a 1/2inch spade bit. Drill the entry holes in the free form shapes with a 1-1/2-inch spade
drill and the corresponding sides of the box marked with a cross hair. Assemble the
basic box observing the 3/8-inch front setback. Use glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.
Now attach the two free form shapes observing the 1-1/4-inch setback on the side of
the box. Attach the pieces with glue and 1-1/2-inch casing nails.

Figure 2
Now proceed to attach the bendable plywood. If your 24-inch length of plywood is
wider than required now is the time to cut it to the proper width. Spread a bead of glue
along the edge of the free form shape for about 3 or 4 inches. Position the plywood 11/4-inches out from the front face of the box and drill two pilot holes for starter screws
indicated in the illustration. Insert a trim screw on one side. Make sure the plywood is
centered, and then place a trim screw on the other side
To continue, run a bead of glue all the way down the remaining edge of the two sides.
Firmly press the plywood to the curved surface and every two to three inches along its
entire length fasten it with 1-1/2-inch trim head screws.(Tip: to steady the project
while attaching the screws it helps to lay it face down on a flat surface.)
Now add the 1/4-inch square trim pieces as shown in the photo. The exact location is
somewhat arbitrary. Use the photo as your guide. I suggest you add the trim after you
paint the main surface.
Cut the base and position it under the box so it corresponds to the sides. Drill a pilot
hole in each edge of the base for the two 1-1/2-inch #8 zinc coated Phillips- head
screws that can be easily removed for maintenance and mounting.
Countersink all exposed nails and screws. Fill the holes with exterior wood filler and
sand smooth. Paint the project in the contrasting colors of your choice. Paint a circle
around the entry hole or add a 2-1/2-inch circular predator guard.

Assembly Diagram

5 After You Build It

After you build it, will they come? If you build a nesting box without considering a bird's habitat,
chances are they will not come, and all your work may go for naught. Cavity-nesting birds need
more than shelter to survive and breed their offspring. Building a nest box is a step in the right
direction, but without the proper habitat, you may end up with an empty box, or one inhabited by
sparrows or starlings.
So how do you know which birds you can attract? First, they must be secondary cavity nesters;
birds known to inhabit nest boxes, like those listed in this book, with strong feet and a curiosity to
explore dark holes. Second, they must be birds that frequent the area where you live. To learn
which birds are native to your area, I strongly suggest you obtain a bird identification book, and a
pair of binoculars.

A guide will indicate a range where a specific bird will generally be found. However, since a
range is a geographical designation, it may vary, shift, or decrease due to environmental changes,
climate, or human alteration of the landscape. Nonetheless, a good guide can lead you in the right
direction and serve as an immediate reference.
Another way to identify regional birds is by their specific behavioral patterns. You can learn to
identify a particular species by the way they forage for food, or from their distinctive body
language tail movement, walking patterns, or peculiar rituals that some birds exhibit during the
mating season. These are all telltale clues for identification.
Attracting birds, enjoying their presence, and observing their antics are just a few of the many

benefits derived from building a birdhouse. However, once you erect a nest box you become a
"landlord", with all the duties associated with the title. You also become accountable for the safety
of your inhabitants. In other words, you take on the duties of a custodian - cleaning, repairing, and
maintaining your nest box to keep it disease free and in good order. Most important is the matter of
habitat, providing a nurturing environment akin to that found in nature. Indeed, setting out a nest box
will entail some extra work on your part, but for the enjoyment you will derive, it is a small price
to pay.
Habitat
Habitat is the natural environment where a species lives and breeds. Although a created
environment cannot duplicate a natural habitat, you can produce enough diversity to satisfy the four
essential ingredients for survival food, water, space, and cover.
You may live in an area where all these ingredients exist, if not, you will have to create them in
order
to attract the right birds to your nest box. The first step is take an inventory of your property to
determine what trees and plants you already have, and what needs to be added, removed, or
improved upon. It helps to make a simple sketch that identifies all the primary elements of your
landscape, including the location of your house, decks, driveway, and other prominent features. If
you are planning to add landscape, remember, what you plant is as important as where you plant it.
Birds tend to favor areas where different habitats come together, like open areas bordered by trees,
or other such contrasting edges. Natural settings with loose edges, brambles and thickets, or
gardens where leaves are left to mulch are also effective for attracting birds. All too often gardens
are too pristine and manicured to serve as habitats for birds, and we are left to wonder why they go
elsewhere to nest.

Food

When providing food, natural sources yield the best results. It is a way of keeping a balance with
nature. Native birds and plants evolved together so it is only sensible to respect that evolution with
sources of natural food, like berries, fruits, and seeds. Flowers, both annuals and perennials attract
insects that form a main part of a cavity nester's diet. And when you plant, think variety. Include a
seasonal supply of food as well as year-round sources.
The food you provide depends on the bird you are trying to attract. In general, most wild birds
prefer oil-rich sunflower seeds. They are also fond of suet, fruits, jelly mealworms, and baked
goods. During the winter, when food sources are less plentiful, feeders are a good substitute. But
be mindful, birds are like people, they have specific preferences when it comes to food, and they
will be the first to let you know if it's not to their liking they just won't eat it.
There is a great deal of informative literature on bird feeding and their diets, the internet,

periodicals, books, and your own personal observations. You will find that well-chosen food will
bring cavity nesters to your habitat and other birds you would not normally see. Chances are if
nesting birds find food in proximity of your nest box, they will nest in them during the breeding
season. One way of knowing what is natural to your environment, is to observe what grows in the
fields, forests, and wetlands near your home.
Learn what plants, bushes, and trees provide sources of food for birds that frequent your area.
If you live in a climate with dramatic seasonal changes, it is a good idea to provide food for those
birds that do not migrate. However, bear in mind, it is a myth that birds will become dependent on
your feeders and will starve without the food you provide. Birds are creatures of the wild and very
adept at finding natural sources of food.

A protected winter source for food

Water

Regardless of the season, birds require water for drinking and bathing. In nature, they obtain water
from food, the ground, dew on vegetation, or natural sources like ponds and streams. To provide
water, birdbaths are fine, but dripping or moving water is even better for attracting birds. You
might even consider creating a small water garden by sinking a pool liner in the ground and adding
a pump with a water-spraying nozzle. It can be as elaborate or simple as you care to make it. For
winter use, you might want to add a small immersible heater

A few tips for adding water for birds

Place your water source in an open area, but make sure shrubs and bushes are within 10feet so birds can escape in the presence of danger.
When using a birdbath, elevate it so birds can watch out for predators.
Locate your birdbath in a shady location to minimize evaporation and the growth of
algae.
Change the water in a birdbath at least once a week.
Never use chemicals to control algae or prevent freezing.
When adding water to your birdbath, the maximum depth useful to birds, is 2 to 3-inches.
For metal or smooth birdbaths and those with deeper pools, provide gravel and rocks to
provide proper grip and footing.

Clean your birdbath with soap or chlorine bleach, but make sure you rinse it thoroughly
before refilling.
.
A planned garden water source for birds
Space
All birds require vertical and horizontal space, where horizontal space is translated to mean
territory. Most birds are territorial, some more than others. During the breeding season, all birds
will protect their space from other birds and humans, and defend areas where the elements of
survival and mates can be found. Bluebirds are especially territorial and require more space than
most cavity nesting birds. Yet at night or during the winter, they will roost communally in natural
cavities, birdhouses, or roosting boxes. However, if you intend to attract this species, with more
than one bluebird box, place the boxes150-feet apart. Oddly enough, bluebirds will tolerate other
species close to their nest boxes, but not other bluebirds. The size of a territory varies with each
species, population, and the competition for suitable nesting places. In general, you will probably
not attract more than one pair of each cavity nesting species. However, you could have several
nesting pairs of different species on your property, all at the same time.
When it comes to space, you can alter your landscape to provide horizontal space by providing
open areas adjacent to planted or forested edges. Vertical space may be shaped with well-selected
plants and trees and should consist of four, forest canopy layers overstory, midstory, woody

understory, and herbaceous understory or shrubs.

Four, forest canopy covers

Cover
By nature, birds are cautious and constantly on the lookout for predators. They are extremely alert
to movement and sounds, especially during the mating season when their senses are even more
attuned to danger. For these reasons, birds require cover areas of immediate retreat when they
feel threatened. Dense vegetation, like shrubs, bushes and trees all act as cover, including tall
grasses and bramble. Since cover can change with the seasons, it is important to consider what
grows at different times of the year to provide cover year-round. Cover also serves as a roosting
place at night, and during spells of severe weather.

On the lookout for dangerous prey

A proper habitat may already exist on your property, or it may take months or even years to create.
In the end, your landscape will be better than when you started. It will represent a return to nature,
only this time it will serve two purposes - a delight to your eye and a welcome refuge for birds

Nest Box Placement

In a proper habitat, nest box placement is important, but not as critical as you may think. Birds do
adapt quite well. However, when you place your box is very important or you might miss the best
opportunity to attract the cavity-nesting birds you desire. In warm climates, place your box by
February, and no later than mid to late March for cooler climates. Be patient, birds may not find
your box immediately, and it may take a season or two until they feel it is safe to occupy it.
For personal enjoyment, place birdhouses on your property where you can observe the coming and

going of birds during the breeding season. Other suitable locations are golf courses, open fields,
and farms, but you must be careful to avoid areas where pesticides and herbicides may be present.
Such agents are not only harmful to birds, but they destroy insects that are an essential part of a
birds diet. When placing your nest boxes, you might want to consider the following general
suggestions:
For a given species, it is best not to place more than four nest boxes per acre.
Avoid hanging birdhouses unless you want to attract wrens; the movement does not
seem to bother them.
Place your nest box at least 10-feet from jumping off places to thwart predators.
Give your birdhouse a chance to weather and time for birds to find it and feel safe
approaching it.
Do not place your nest box in areas with a lot of disturbance and noise.
If you place a birdhouse near a street or road, face the entry hole away from traffic to
prevent fledglings from meeting with disaster.
Regardless of where you place your birdhouse, be sure you provide an unobstructed flight pattern
to and from the entrance hole. Adult birds make countless journeys, back and
forth to feed their nestlings. When you consider that nestlings consume their
weight in food each day that adds up to quite a few trips!
As a word of caution regarding sparrows - do not place your birdhouse too
close to human dwellings or you will attract sparrows. Sparrows have been known to enter
birdhouses and destroy its contents. In addition, Starlings are also an aggressive, obnoxious,
species and a downright nuisance. Over a century ago, Sparrows and Starlings were imported to
North America from Europe and now number in the millions spread across the entire United States.
Nesting Materials
Did you ever stop and think what effort it takes to build a nest? It has been estimated that a single
nest can take over one thousand or more individual pieces. That is a lot of "comings and goings".
You can help by providing an accessible source of nest materials and have the joy of watching
these avian architects busy at work by providing some of the following materials.
Small twigs

Strips of cloth, 1-inch by 6-inches long

Feathers
Pine needles or long grasses
Yarn and thread, no longer than 4-inches in length
Cotton pieces
Dried leaves
Lint from your dryer
Strips of cellophane, and a lot more
Make sure you place these materials in a very accessible place, like an onion bag
hanging from a tree or an open box resting on a windowsill. Empty suet feeders also
make good container for storing nesting materials. Some birds will use just about
anything to build their nest.

Windowsill supplies for our avian architects

Security
Birds are cautious and aware that dangers might befall them, but it is the danger they do not see that
poses a problem, and here is where you can help. With proper box placement, you can avoid the
majority of threats from jumping predators. It is the threat from below that you need to be aware of
to thwart those climbing critters, and that depends on the kind of support you use- wood post, metal
poles or PVC tube.

Another security device I use is the identical two-front house with an entry hole in each front. If
attacked from one side it gives the bird an opportunity to escape through the opposite side. Birds
seem to like the idea as I often observe them flitting in one hole and out the other. The double entry
hole also allows you to place the birdhouse in many directions, indoors and outdoors, without
having to look at a blank end.

Poles, Posts and Tubes

Poles are usually sold in sections, varying in length from 18 to 24-inches per section and include a
mounting flange. They can be purchased in galvanized steel, aluminum, and coated steel, in small
diameters. Plastic poles are also available but they are not very stable. The problem with small
diameter poles is that they look out of scale and precarious when supporting a reasonably sized
birdhouse. They are best suited to small nest boxes. If you want something special, several
companies sell decorative posts for birdhouses that resemble country-style porch posts. If this is
your choice, you will have to do a bit of searching because they are not easy to find. You could buy
a porch post, but that gets a bit expensive.

Of course, you can always make your own support. A four-inch square pressure treated wood post
makes a very sturdy long-lasting support. They are easy to find at your local home improvement
store, economical, and you can dress them up to suit your taste. You can also make your own a
metal post from galvanized steel or black iron plumbing pipe, topped off with an inverted plumbers
floor flange.

A 3-inch PVC tube is another possibility. Its slick surface automatically dissuades predators from
climbing, so a predator guard is rarely needed. You can buy an inexpensive PVC floor drain flange
that fits snugly inside the tube and serves as the underside mount for your birdhouse.
Setting a Support
The simplest way to set any support is to dig a hole with a post digger or spade-point shovel. You
will need a hole 18 to 24-inches deep and about 4-inches wider than the support itself. After the

hole is dug, place about 4-inches of gravel in the bottom for drainage. Set your post, and pour
concrete all around the support to engage it. In climates prone to frost, it is good practice to extend
the post down 6-inches below the frost line to prevent heaving. If the soil in your area compacts
well, you can set a wood post, or PVC tube, into the hole and tightly compact the removed soil
around it for a snug fit. If you use this method with a PVC tube, it is a good idea to pour about 18inches of stone or gravel into the hollow tube to make the bottom more stable. Due to their small
diameter, it is always advisable to set a metal post in concrete for stability. You can purchase
quick-setting, dry mixed concrete in small bags with directions clearly printed on the bag; all you
need is water. When you set your support, always use a level to get it straight.

Baffles

Once you decide on your support, you need to turn your attention to baffles. It seems like every year
someone comes out with a new device, touting it as the perfect solution for thwarting climbing

predators. There may not be the perfect baffle, but believe me, some of these devices do work, and
work well
Baffles fall into three general categories, loosely described as saucers, cones, and tubes. For 4inch square wood post, the cone baffle is a very good choice, or the 16-inch long cylinder type.
Both are constructed of heavy metal so predators cannot destroy them. For poles of various
diameters, the polycarbonate plastic saucer type is fine, but a better more choice is the 6-inch
diameter steel tube. The latter is sold in 12 or 16-inch lengths with a sloped top called the
torpedo top to dissuade intrusive creatures. When placing your baffle, the top of it should be at
least 4-feet above ground and securely fastened to the support. As previously mentioned, PVC
supports do not require baffles because PVC is smooth and difficult to grip.
Mounting
In this book, you have probably noticed that I favor supporting a nest box from below. The reason
is quite simple. With the exception of the roosting box, and owl house, all the projects in this book
are equipped with a removable base that provides easy access for cleaning, and serves a dual
purpose for mounting. The base can be attached to the top of a wood post with just one screw.
Once in place, you can easily attach or remove your birdhouse from the underside while leaving the
base attached to the post. If you use a flange type support, you merely attach the flange to the
underside of the removable base and then screw the base to the birdhouse. For easy reattachment, I
mark the underside of the nest box with an arrow that corresponds to an arrow on the top of the
removable base. When I move a birdhouse indoors for storage or repair, I leave the base on its
support and cover it with a plastic bag. As shown elsewhere in the book, I use a couple variations
of the removable base; the principle is always the same, and the concept of avoiding water
intrusion always considered

Mounting, maintenance, storage, and repair.

I do not recommend hanging birdhouses. Birds do not like movement when they are breeding and
tend to avoid hanging boxes. Although the height to mount a nest box is not a precise science, I
suggest you refer to the Birdhouse Data and Dimensions Chart in Section 2, Building the Basic
Box to establish a height within the range listed. I have mounted birdhouses anywhere from 5 to 15feet above ground level, on wood posts and dead trees, and have yet to find a magic distance for
attracting birds.
Maintenance
To encourage birds to keep coming back to your nest box you have to maintain it in much the same
way as you would with your own house. Birdhouses can last for many years and continue to be
serviceable, if they are cleaned on a regular basis, repaired when needed, and refinished
periodically to keep the wood from rotting. I know, some people like that worn out down to earth
weathered look, but how would you like to occupy a house with a leaking roof?
Cleaning
Nest boxes should be cleaned after each breeding season, and no later than a few weeks before the
next one. In the case of wrens and bluebirds, the box needs be cleaned after each brood. Wrens and
bluebirds breed more than once in the summer, and sometimes as many as two or three times in a
season. Bluebirds may build a new nest with each new brood; however, some studies have shown
that they may reuse an old nest. For your own health and safety, it is prudent to wear gloves when
removing debris from a nest box. If you find parasites or insects inside, you can clean the interior
with a biodegradable, soy-based spray that you can purchase, or you can use household bleach for
cleaning one part bleach to nine parts water.

Make sure you rinse the inside of your box and let it dry
thoroughly before you reassemble it. To stay healthy and avoid disease, always wear rubberized or
leather gloves when removing debris. You will also need a stiff scrubbing brush to eliminate
difficult stains, tough grime, and bird droppings, and nothing works better than an old barbeque
brush. If you find wasps have been making nests in the roof of your box, you can rub bar soap on
the inside top to prevent them from returning.

Repairs
From time to time, every birdhouse will require some form of repair. As part of your repair
program check for open joints, leaks, rusted hardware, or peeling finishes. If you find any spongy
wood areas, replace them; they will only get worse with time. If nails have come loose, use screws
to strengthen joints and caulk any suspect seams. If you painted your house with good quality paint,
the finish should last for a number of years and you may only need intermittent touchups.
Regardless of how good your finish appears; always clean the outside of your nest box to avoid the
buildup of harmful mold and mildew. On our property, some of the birdhouses I built 10 to 15
years ago are still going strong
.

6 Display

Beyond Design
The process of design extends beyond the parameters of function and sound building techniques. It
encompasses the need in all of us for beauty and contentment. You do not set out to create
something of value devoid of artistic intent, or for the sole purpose of self-gratification, it just is
not done. The impulse to share and the need for giving is a part of what we are. With that in mind, it
matters little how or where an object is displayed, but rather the joy it imparts to the viewer.
Outdoors, a birdhouse may serve as garden sculpture, a focal point, or part of a composition with
other birdhouses or like objects. Indoors, it may become part of a treasured collection, an interior
enhancement, or a valued work of fine art. Regardless of how they are displayed, birdhouses have
become one of those "feel good" things that never fail to capture our attention or prompt a smile.
They are a delight to the eye, a product of the imagination, feeding our fascination for all things
small, earthy, and intimate a sense of home within us all.

Outdoor Display
The functional purpose of a birdhouse is to provide a nesting place for cavity-nesting birds and a
place of refuge during inclement weather for birds that stay year-round. However, birdhouses are
finding their way into gardens across the globe, used as enhancements and providing visual delight,
even if they do not attract birds. On our property in Pinehurst, North Carolina, we display
birdhouses for function and aesthetic effect, often changing locations and alternating settings for
variety.
In our garden, or elsewhere on our property, these visual delights always attract attention and
comment. Garden size notwithstanding, I am sure you can personalize your garden by placing
birdhouses in unusual locations to suit your taste. You might decide to mount one on top of your
mailbox support as a welcoming entrance near your driveway. It makes an attractive addition to an
otherwise common mailbox.

Or how about a pair of birdhouses of dissimilar design set on a wood deck or top of a log.

There are a number of ways to display birdhouses in your garden

1 on a "stick tower"

2 in a secret garden

3 on a

Shepherd's hook

4 clustered in an outdoor Carolina Room

arbor of blossoms

5or partially hidden in an

nd who says you can't display a birdhouse in the city, high above the clamor of New
York City traffic. On the other hand, you might choose one of my favorite means for
outdoor display, by grouping three together to make a composition. Mounted to a wall
of your house, birdhouses make a suitable nesting place for wrens; I can attest to that. For an eyecatching vertical display in your garden, you might try three birdhouses on equally spaced poles a
great idea suggested by my wife Marilyn.

Indoor Display
All of my birdhouses have four wood blocks attached to their base, except where a specific design
does not accommodate them. Some projects have wood balls fastened to legs, and one even uses
thread spools. I am often asked, what is the purpose of these various blocks, balls, and spools? The
answer is simple. They provide a means of elevating the birdhouse when it is set on a flat surface,
especially when displayed indoors. In my opinion, it gives the birdhouse a stately presence. It is
something I started with the first project I designed and I continue to use the method for indoor and
outdoor display. As the finial is a final addition to the roof, the blocks, balls, and spools are an
artful beginning.
Birdhouses used for decorative enhancements have found their way into homes of all styles from
contemporary to country. Some have become a part of a personal art collection displayed along
side of other collectibles. Whether displayed with art or other earthy items, a birdhouse can add an
atypical touch without looking out of place.

Birdhouses are a welcome addition in a window setting arranged with items of like and kind that
are reminiscent of nature. A birdhouse window display can occur in any room in the house and it
always seems to fit. Cabinets with shelves, often found in kitchens, are a great place to display a
birdhouse. Since kitchens have become a gathering place for family and friends, they make an
interesting conversation piece.

Living room

Kitchen

Displayed as artifacts, birdhouses can be combined with avian wall hangings above a freestanding
wardrobe in a bedroom. The unusual placement never fails to catch the eye and meet with a
response.

In a simple setting, a birdhouse can share shelf space with a small vase of freshly cut flowers from
the garden. For simplicity, you can display a single birdhouse, one rich in detail and design, against
the contrasting background of a wall or cabinet.
Countertops and tabletops are always a favorite place to display
objects of art. Combined with plants on a

glass top coffee table, a birdhouse feels right at home and the reflection of objects makes it even
more stunning.
Credenzas set tight against a wall provide shelf space for objects, a
countertop, and a background wall all in one. It makes a great place for
a birdhouse and other ornate objects that you may also wish to display.

plants on a glass top coffee table

combined with
or set against a wall on a credenza

Displaying birdhouses indoors or outdoors present an array of possibilities, possibilities that

reflect a pride in one's home and property, a testimony to a person's particular taste and aesthetic
values. What is especially satisfying about these displays is there is no right or wrong way it is
just "your way".

The End

Biography
Richard T. Banks is an architect and artist with 30 years of professional
experience. He received his bachelor and masters' degree in architecture
from the University of Illinois, Champaign/Urbana, where he taught
architectural design for several years before relocating to New York City.
He joined a prestigious international design and planning firm and became a
lead design architect for many large-scale projects in the U.S. and abroad. His work has been
widely published and honored with numerous awards for excellence in building design and urban
planning. Richard later established his own architectural and real estate development firm in New

York prior to relocating to North Carolina. Throughout his career, he has participated in many
juried art exhibitions earning awards for his watercolor and acrylic paintings - an avocation he
continues to this day. He designs, builds, and sells unique birdhouses online, and several of his
designs have been featured in poplar publications including Southern Living, This Old House, and
Garden Design. With his wife, Marilyn, Richard resides in Pinehurst, NC. You can visit his
website at www.architecturaleditions.com.

Metric Equivalents
Inches

Centimeters

1/8
1/4
3/8
1/2
5/8
3/4
7/8
1
1
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
7
8
9
10
11

3 mm
6mm
9 mm
1.3 cm
1.6 cm
1.9 cm
2.2 cm
2.5 cm
3.1 cm
3.8 cm
4.4 cm
5.0 cm
6.25 cm
7.5 cm
8.8 cm
10.0 cm
11.3 cm
12.5 cm
13.8 cm
15.0 cm
17.5 cm
20.0 cm
22.5 cm
25.0 cm
27.5 cm

Inches
12
13

Centimeters
30.0 cm
32.5 cm

14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36

Notes

35.0 cm
37.5 cm
40.0 cm
42.5 cm
45.0cm
47.5 cm
50.0 cm
52.5 cm
55.0 cm
57.5 cm
60.0 cm
62.5 cm
65.0 cm
67.5 cm
70.0 cm
72.5 cm
75.0 cm
72.5 cm
80.0 cm
82.5 cm
85.0 cm
87.5 cm
90.0 cm