Identifying Engines

Identifying engines
Summary
Multi-cylinder engines are produced in four common configurations. They are:
Inline, "Vee", Horizontally Opposed, Rotary.
Multi-cylinder engines are produced in four common configurations. They are:
Inline
"Vee"
Horizontally Opposed
Rotary
Inline
Inline engines can be found in 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 cylinder configurations. There

have been inline 8 cylinder engines, but they are too long to fit into an engine
bay of a conventional modern car.
Cylinders arranged side by side in a single row identify the 'Inline' engine. They
can be mounted longitudinally (lengthwise) or transversely (sideways) in the
engine bay. However, it is uncommon to find a longer 6-cylinder engine mounted
transversely.
Vee
"Vee" engines are shorter than an equivalent capacity inline engine. They can be
found in 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 cylinder configurations and consist of two banks of
cylinders arranged in a Vee that is joined at the bottom. They are shorter than
inline engines, because offsetting the wider top parts of alternate cylinders into
the different arms of the Vee allows them to be connected closer together at the
crankshaft.
Vee engines can be mounted longitudinally (lengthwise) or transversely
(sideways) in the engine bay. A V6 will have two banks of 3 cylinders, a V8 two
banks of 4 cylinders.
The angle of the "Vee" varies according to the number of cylinders. The natural
angle for a V4 and V8 is 90. The natural angle for a V6 and V12 is 60 and for a
V10 is 72. Some manufacturers vary their angles due to convenience or design
requirements. Some manufacturers use 90 and 15 V6s
Horizontally opposed
Horizontally opposed engines are commonly found in 2, 4, 6, and 12 cylinder

configurations. Like a "Vee" engine, they have two banks, but in this case they
are 180 apart. Unlike "Vee" engines their crankshaft differs in the way the
pistons are paired. A Horizontally Opposed engine is only fitted longitudinally.
Rotary
Rotary engines are very powerful for their size, but they do not use conventional
pistons that slide back and forth inside a straight cylinder. Instead, a rotary
engine uses a rotor which has three convex sides, attached to an eccentric shaft
inside a specially shaped housing. As the rotor rotates, it covers and uncovers
inlet and exhaust ports, and its curved shape alters the size of the working
chambers, which are formed in the spaces between the outside of the rotor and
the inside of the housing. For each complete rotation of the rotor, there are three
power pulses, and three rotations of the shaft.
Engine configurations
Summary
Engines have different layouts, depending on the vehicle application. Common
arrangements include in-line, vee, flat or rotary.
The way engine cylinders are arranged is called the engine configuration.
Tilting an engine reduces its height. This can reduce the height of the bonnet as
well, which allows a more streamlined body shape.
Tilting can be carried to an extreme by lying the engine completely on its side. It
is then called a flat engine. This greatly reduces engine height.
As the number of cylinders increases, the length of the block and the crankshaft
can become a problem. One way to avoid this is with a V configuration. This
design makes the engine block and the crankshaft shorter, and more rigid.
In vehicle applications, the number of cylinders can vary, usually from 4, up to

12.
Common angles between the banks of cylinders are 90 degrees and 60 degrees.
V-type engines are wider than inline engines, and may also be lower.
Horizontally-opposed engines have 2 banks of cylinders, 180 degrees apart, on
opposite sides of the crankshaft. A useful design when little vertical space is
available. It is shorter than a comparable in-line engine but wider than a V-type.
A rotary engines uses a rotor in a housing, instead of a pistons in a cylinder. This
provides a very compact power unit.
Sedan
Summary
A sedan can also be referred to as a saloon or convertible.
A sedan has an enclosed body, with a maximum of 4 doors to allow access to the
passenger compartment.
The design also allows for storage of luggage or other goods. A sedan can also
be referred to as a saloon, and traditionally has a fixed roof.
There are soft-top versions of the same body design, except for having 2 doors,
and these are commonly referred to as convertibles.
Station wagon
Summary
A station wagon, or estate car, has a large rear door and a large baggage
capacity.
A station wagon, or estate car, has increased luggage capacity, and a large rear
door for access. The rear seats can usually be folded to increase luggage
capacity even further. The roof is usually fixed.
Coupe
Summary
A 2-door coupe, or sports car, normally has a more rigid structure than a sedan
or saloon.
A coupe has just 2 doors. Reducing the number of doors to the passenger
compartment makes the vehicle structure more rigid.
Traditionally, it has 2 seats, with 2 smaller seats behind, for occasional use. In
this form it is a close-coupled 4-seater, and can be made in a fixed head or drophead configuration. A coupe is now regarded as being any fixed head vehicle
with 2 doors.
Hatch-back
Summary
A hatchback is a versatile vehicle, similar to a sedan but with some of the
benefits of a station wagon.
Hatch-backs can have 3-door, and 5-door designs. Rear seats usually fold down
to increase luggage area. They combine the benefits of sedans and station
wagons, to make more versatile vehicles.
Pick-up/utility
Summary
A pick-up truck or utility can carry heavier loads and has stronger suspension.
The pick-up, or utility, carries goods. Usually it has stronger chassis components
and suspension than a sedan, to support greater Gross Vehicle Mass.
Light vehicle vans
Summary
Vans are designed for maximum cargo space, and are generally based on light
vehicle configurations.
Light vehicle vans can be based on common sedan designs, or redesigned so

that maximum cargo space is available.
General goods transport vehicles
Summary
Goods vehicles are specifically designed to carry various types of cargo.
The bodies of commercial vehicles that transport goods are designed for that
specific purpose. Tankers transport fluids.
Tippers carry earth, or bulk grains.
And flat-beds and vans are used for general goods transport.
A goods transport vehicle can be a rigid vehicle, a rigid vehicle with a trailer, or
an articulated vehicle.
Articulated vehicles carry goods on a semi-trailer, with the power unit or prime
mover connected to the semi-trailer by a coupling, called a 5th-wheel coupling.
The 5th-wheel coupling lets the traction unit pivot on the semi-trailer. This gives
more manoeuvrability than with rigid vehicles, or rigid-trailer combinations.
A road train connects extra trailers by a small inter-connecting trailer called a
dolly. It has a fifth-wheel coupling, and its connected to the leading trailer by a
draw bar.
Up to 3 trailer-and-dolly-sets can be drawn by 1 prime mover, and each set
contains brakes for each wheel, and lights for each trailer.
A B-Double vehicle has a 5th-wheel on the rear of the first trailer, and the 2nd
trailer is coupled to the 5th-wheel. This removes the dolly wheels from the
combined unit, which reduces the length of the vehicle. But since there are fewer
supporting wheels, the vehicle payload is also reduced.
Heavy goods vehicles can have normal control, with the operator seated behind
the engine. A light-weight bonnet that can be tilted or raised allows easy access
to the engine for servicing.
In forward control, the operator cabin is mounted over the engine. This design
gives greater load length to the vehicle. The cabin can be tilted for easy access
to the engine. Some designs only have a hinged flap over the engine bay.
Buses & coaches
Summary
Buses and coaches are passenger carrying vehicles - buses for commuter
transport, coaches for longer distance travel.
Buses and coaches are usually 4-wheeled rigid vehicles, but a larger number of
wheels and axles can be used.
Sometimes articulated buses are used to increase capacity.
Buses and coaches can be single-deck, or double-deck.
Buses are commonly used in cities as commuter transport, while coaches are
more luxurious, and used for long distances.
Convertible
Summary
A convertible is an automobile built with a folding, retracting, or removable roof.
A convertible (commonly known as a 'cabriolet' in Europe) is an automobile that

can 'convert' from an enclosed top vehicle into an open top vehicle by means of
a roof that can be removed or retracted or folded away.
The roofing material is most often a flexible fabric such as canvas or vinyl, and
most convertibles have a mechanism driven by electric motors that retract or
raise the roof cover.
In some vehicles, known as 'hardtop convertibles' the roof can be a series of
folding steel panels. When in place, the hard roof makes such vehicles look more
like conventional fixed roof vehicles. In other vehicles, only a smaller section of
the roof area is 'convertible'.
Traditionally, the term 'roadster' was applied to a vehicle with no permanent
roof covering or side windows, but today that name is most often used to
describe any 'convertible sportscar'.
Truck
Summary
Trucks are commercial goods-carrying vehicles. They can be small and relatively
light, or massive and powerful vehicles that can tow multiple heavy trailers.
'Truck' is the most common name applied to larger commercial vehicles in The
US and Australia. A goods carrying vehicle in the UK is more likely to be called a
'lorry', or a 'heavy goods vehicle', or HGV. Lighter types of commercial vehicles
are known by a variety of names that differ from place to place. For instance, a
light commercial vehicle that may have a front cab configuration similar in size
to a family sedan or an SUV but with an open top cargo area at the rear is known
in the US as a 'pick-up', but in Australia and New Zealand it is called a 'ute' or
utility vehicle.
Construction
Most heavier trucks share a common construction: they comprise a chassis with
a cab; axles, suspension and wheels; and an engine and a drivetrain. The body or
coachwork is usually customized for the particular goods that it will carry for
instance, sealed tanks for liquids such as fuels; open trays for bulky general
goods such as timber; or enclosed and refrigerated containers for perishable
goods such as meat.
Chassis
A truck chassis usually consists of parallel steel beams held together with cross
members. This forms the framework to which all the other components are
attached.
Cab
The cab is the enclosed space where the driver sits. In larger long-haul vehicles,
this will be a comfortable air-conditioned space that can even contain a sleeping
compartment. A conventional truck cab is behind the engine which sits under a
front hood or bonnet, as it would be in a passenger vehicle. In Europe, where
truck lengths are more strictly regulated, it is much more common for the driver
to sit on top of the engine and front axle in a cab which tilts forward to allow
access to technicians. Light trucks such as pickup trucks can have a unibody cab
like a passenger vehicle, attached to a half-chassis behind.
Engine
There are fewer truck engine manufacturers than there are for passenger
vehicles, and many trucks in the US and Australia are built using engines from a
third party manufacturer such as Cummins, Navistar, or Caterpillar. Fully
integrated trucks from a manufacturers such as Scania, MAN, Mercedes, or Volvo,
are more common in Europe.
Light trucks can use gasoline/petrol engines, but heavier trucks are mostly
powered by four-stroke diesel engines with turbochargers and intercoolers,
although there are alternatives such as the V12 diesel two-stroke engine from
Detroit Diesel.
Drivetrain
Larger trucks usually have manual transmissions with several ranges and many
more gears than passenger vehicles. To cope with the torque forces required to
start heavy loads moving, truck transmissions are more strongly built than
passenger vehicle transmissions. Automatic transmissions are becoming more
common in all types of trucks.
Truck types and examples
Light trucks pickups, minivans
Medium trucks delivery vehicles, motor homes
Heavy trucks concrete mixers, gasoline/petrol tankers, garbage trucks
Articulated trucks, or semi-trailers car transporters, containers
Doubles and 'Road Trains' trucks with multiple trailers for carrying livestock,
grain, ore
Vehicle closures
Summary
A vehicle body contains many openings apart from the vehicle doors. All of these
openings have to be secured and may require a remote switch or lever to be
activated.
A vehicle body contains many openings apart from the vehicle doors. They
include engine compartment hoods, hatch and tailgate openings, fuel doors, and
battery access covers.
All of these openings have to be secured and may require a remote switch or
lever to be activated. In some cases the activation is by cable, others may use
electric or vacuum solenoids.
Some rear hatch openings have a hinged window incorporated, so the owner can
have easy access without opening the entire door.
Engine compartment hoods may use single or double acting hinges. Their release
may be located inside the passenger compartment, under the dash, in the glove
compartment or on a doorjamb.
Some manufacturers are no longer fitting an engine compartment release to

their vehicles. The hood can only be released by the manufacturers scan tool or
by a service key fitted into a secluded opening on the vehicle body (usually
behind a manufacturers badge). Before opening the engine hood on these
vehicles, check the owner's manual, or the manufacturers manual, as

unauthorized access may void any vehicle warranty.
Engine & transmission configurations
Summary
Engine and transmission layout can be longitudinal or lateral, depending on the
vehicle application.
An engine can be located at the

1. front
2. middle, or
3. rear of a vehicle
An engine located at the front can be mounted longitudinally, and can drive
either the front, or the rear wheels. In 4-wheel-drive applications, it can drive
both the front and rear wheels.
Alternatively, the engine can be transverse, and drive either the front wheels
only, or, in 4-wheel-drive applications, the front and rear wheels.
Mid-engined vehicles have the engine in front of the rear wheels. The engine can
be transverse or longitudinal, and usually drives the rear wheels only.
Rear-engined vehicles have the engine mounted behind the rear wheels. The
engine can be transverse or longitudinal, and usually drives the rear wheels only.
The drive train transfers turning effort from the engine to the driving wheels.
A drive train can include a clutch for manual transmission, or a torque converter
for automatic transmission; a transmission, a drive shaft, final drive and
differential gears, and driving axles.
Alternatively, a transaxle may be used. A transaxle is a self-contained unit, with
the transmission, final drive gears and differential located in one casing.
It is usually used on front-engined, front-wheel-drive vehicles, or, rear-engined,
rear-wheel-drive vehicles.
It can also be used on front-engine, rear-wheel-drive vehicles, connected to the
engine by a propeller shaft.
Vehicle axles
Summary
Vehicles can have different numbers or types of axles.
Vehicles can be described by the number of axles. Most light vehicles only have
2 axles. Most vehicles have 4 wheels but only 2 driving wheels.
Some have 4 driving wheels, and these are commonly called 4-wheel-drive
vehicles.
On commercial vehicles, the load carried on a single axle is limited by law, so
vehicles with extra axles are common. This layout has 6 wheels to support the
vehicle but only 2 drive it. The extra axle at the rear is only used to support the
weight of the vehicle. This extra axle is sometimes called a lazy axle. This is
called a 6-by-2 vehicle.
If the lazy axle is changed to a driving axle, this becomes a 6-by-4 vehicle.
Some heavy goods vehicles have an extra steering axle, which allows more
weight to be carried.
Location of driving axles
Summary
Vehicles can have single or multiple driving axles, depending on the vehicle
design or purpose.
The location of the driving axle determines whether the vehicle is classified as
1. rear-wheel drive
2. front-wheel-drive
3. 4-wheel drive
4. all-wheel-drive
Rear-wheel-drive vehicles can use a conventional layout with the engine at the
front of the vehicle. The torque from the engine is transmitted to the rearmounted driving axle by propeller, or drive shaft. This spreads the weight of
components throughout the vehicle.
Some rear-wheel-drive vehicles have the engine at the rear, driving the wheels
through a combination transmission and rear axle called a transaxle. The
transaxle is lighter than a separate transmission and rear axle.
Moving the engine to the rear allows a lower bonnet line, which improves
aerodynamics. The increase in weight over the rear wheels can improve their
traction.
A vehicle which has the engine located behind the operators cabin, but forward
of the rear driving axle is called a mid-engine, rear-wheel-drive vehicle.
A mid-engine design locates the mass of the engine behind the driver but
forward of the rear axle. This allows for a low bonnet profile, and good handling.
Most goods-carrying, rigid commercial vehicles locate the engine near the front,
and drive the rear axle by a 2-piece propeller shaft. The rear axle supports most
of the goods, or payload.
Mini-buses commonly locate the engine at the front of the vehicle, beneath the
operators cabin, and drive the rear axle by a propeller-shaft.
Larger buses and coaches locate the engine at the rear. This allows the vehicle to
have a low floor, and removes much of the noise and vibration from the
passenger compartment.
Front-wheel-drive vehicles use the front wheels to pull the vehicle along. In light
passenger vehicles it gives lighter body weight, and increased interior room.
The engine and transaxle are at the front, and can be mounted laterally, that is,
the engine is parallel to the front axle, or longitudinally where the engine is inline
with the centre line of the vehicle.
Transmissions & final drives
Summary
Engine torque is transmitted to the wheels through a different types of
transmission and final drive.
A vehicle with a manual transmission uses a clutch to engage and disengage the
engine from the drive train.
Engine torque is transmitted through the clutch to the transmission or transaxle.
The transmission contains sets of gears that increase or decrease the torque,
before it is transmitted to the rest of the drive train. The lower the gear ratio
selected, the higher the torque transmitted.
A vehicle starting from rest needs a lot of torque, but once it is moving, it can
maintain speed with only a relatively small amount of torque. A higher gear ratio
can then be selected, and engine speed reduced.
A conventional vehicle with the engine at the front and driving wheels at the
rear, uses a drive shaft, called a propeller shaft, to transmit torque from the
transmission to the final drive.
The final drive provides a final gear reduction, to multiply the torque before
applying it to the driving axles.
On front-engined, rear-wheel-drive vehicles, the final drive changes the direction
of the drive by 90 degrees.
Inside the final drive, a differential gear set divides the torque to the axles, and
allows for the difference in speed of each wheel when cornering.
Commercial vehicles may use a 2-speed final drive. The low range provides more
torque for lower speeds, and heavy loads.
High range is used for higher speeds, and light loads. Axle shafts transmit the
torque to the driving wheels.
In a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, the axles can be solid, or contain joints to allow for
movement of the suspension.
For a front-wheel-drive vehicle, the drive shaft has universal joints to allow for
suspension and steering movement.
An automatic transmission or transaxle performs similar functions to a manual
transmission or transaxle, except that gear selection is controlled either
hydraulically, or electronically.
The automatic transmission uses a torque converter, which acts as a hydraulic
coupling to transfer the drive.
4-wheel drive transmission
Summary
4-wheel and all-wheel drive vehicles transmit torque to more than one set of
driving wheels.
A 4-wheel-drive vehicle has a propeller shaft, a final drive and differential gears,
and axles for both the front and rear axle assemblies. A transfer case is attached
to the transmission.
Part-time 4-wheel-drive means the vehicle is usually in 2-wheel-drive, and
switched to full-time when needed by engaging the transfer case. It locks the
propeller shafts together, and directs torque through them to both axles. When
disengaged, the vehicle transfer case is coupled to 1 propeller shaft only.
When 4-wheel-drive is disengaged, most part-time, 4-wheel-drive vehicles drive
the rear wheels.
Constant-4-wheel-drive uses a third differential in the transfer case. It allows for
the difference in speed between the front and rear wheels during cornering.
The driver can still lock the front and rear axles together by moving a separate
lever as in a conventional 4-wheel-drive or by moving the main gear selector.
This is called a differential lock.
Some full-time, 4-wheel-drive sedans use a front engine and transaxle, with a
propeller shaft connected to drive the rear wheels.
These cars are lighter and less rugged than conventional off-road types, and
usually operate at higher speeds. The drive to all wheels provides better
balanced handling, and traction for cornering in slippery conditions.
Chassis
Summary
A chassis is an underlying supporting structure. A traditional chassis gives the
vehicle structural strength, whereas modern vehicles integrate the bodywork into
a single unit with the chassis so that the body becomes part of the structure of
the vehicle rather than just an external skin.
A chassis is an underlying supporting structure such as a skeleton in an animal,

or the metal frame in a television on which the circuit boards and other
components are mounted.
In a motor vehicle, a traditional chassis gave the vehicle structural strength as
well as a platform on which to mount the engine, the wheels, the transmission,
and all the other mechanical components. Also bolted onto this frame was the
body, or coachwork. Originally made of wood, the vehicle chassis soon became
an open steel ladder-frame structure.
A separate chassis is still the preferred structural basis for commercial vehicles,
which are often sold without a body at all but with the running gear mounted to a
chassis only, or in a 'cowl-and-chassis' or 'cab-and-chassis' configuration so that
specialized bodies can be fitted to them for different purposes.
Body-on-frame used to be the preferred way of building passenger vehicles too,
because it allowed new models of vehicles with different body styles to be
released without having to retool most of the mechanical and structural
components. In the 1960s, most manufacturers switched to vehicle designs
which either partially or wholly integrated the bodywork into a single unit with
the chassis so that the body became part of the structure of the vehicle rather
than just an external skin.
The idea of a single shell or 'monocoque' design was first used in aircraft,
then spread to automobiles, and became popular with manufacturers because
with less of a chassis component it was both quicker to manufacture and lighter
in weight, therefore costing less in both material and labor. The spot-welded unit
body process, known as 'Unibody', is the predominant vehicle construction
technology today.
High performance racing cars today have no chassis at all, their structural
strength coming from their light, stiff, and stable body shells molded from newer
lightweight materials such as carbon fiber reinforced plastics.
Transmission components
Summary
When changing gears in a manual transmission, a stick shift and selectors are
utilized. On a read-wheel drive vehicle the stick shift is normally mounted directly
into the transmission itself. In other vehicles, the stick shift can be attached to
the steering column.
When changing gears in a manual transmission, a stick shift and selectors are
utilized.
The selectors are mounted in the transmission, and allow the various gear ratios
to be selected.
In this example, the selector levers are connected to the stick shift inside the
vehicle by selector rods.
Inside the vehicle of a manual transmission, a stick shift is provided to allow the
various gear positions to be selected.
The stick shift is located on the floor beside the driver.
On a Rear Wheel Drive vehicle with the stick shift located on the floor, it is
normally mounted directly into the transmission itself.
In other vehicles, the stick shift can be attached to the steering column, they can
be connected to the transmission by means of selector rods or cables.
Inside the vehicle equipped with automatic transmission, a gear selector is
provided to allow the various gear positions to be selected. The gear selector can
be located beside the driver on the floor, often referred to as a T Bar automatic.
In other vehicles the gear selector is located on the steering column. In either
situation, the selector is connected to the transmission by selector rods or, in
some applications, by cables.
Chassis configurations
Summary
two axles.
2 axles.
This vehicle has 4 wheels but only 2 driving wheels.
This one has 4 driving wheels, and is commonly called a 4-wheel drive vehicle.
The location of the driving axle determines whether the vehicle is classified as:
rear-wheel drive, front-wheel drive, 4-wheel drive, or all-wheel drive.
Rear-wheel drive vehicles can use a conventional layout with the engine at the
front of the vehicle. The torque from the engine is transmitted to the rearmounted driving axle by propeller, or drive shaft. This spreads the weight of
components throughout the vehicle.
This rear-wheel drive vehicle has the engine at the rear, driving the wheels
through a combination transmission and rear axle called a transaxle. The
transaxle is lighter than a separate transmission and rear axle.
Moving the engine to the rear allows a lower hood profile, which improves
aerodynamics. The increase in weight over the rear wheels can improve their
traction.
This vehicle has the engine located behind the operator's cabin, but forward of
the rear driving axle. This is called a mid-engine, rear-wheel drive vehicle. A midengine design locates the engine behind the driver but forward of the rear axle.
This allows for a low hood profile, and good handling.
Front-wheel drive vehicles use the front wheels to pull the vehicle along. In light
passenger vehicles it gives lighter body weight, and increased interior room. The
engine and transaxle are at the front, and can be mounted laterally, that is, the
engine is parallel to the front axle, or longitudinally where the engine is inline
with the center line of the vehicle.
Carrying out a visual inspection
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to carry out a preliminary
visual inspection. Be sure to work in a systematic manner, or you could miss a
faulty bulb or other component.
Part 1. Preparation and safety
Objective
Carry out a preliminary visual inspection.
Personal safety
Whenever you perform a task in the workshop you must use personal protective
clothing and equipment that is appropriate for the task and which conforms to
your local safety regulations and policies. Among other items, this may include:
Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear
Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks
Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs
Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream
Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators
If you are not certain what is appropriate or required, ask your supervisor.
Safety check
Make sure that you understand and observe all legislative and personal
safety procedures when carrying out the following tasks. If you are unsure
of what these are, ask your supervisor.
Points to note
Be sure to work in a systematic manner, or you could miss a faulty bulb or

other component.
Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

1. Prepare the vehicle
Once a month or prior to any long trip, a vehicle should be checked for
overall roadworthiness. The following simple measures will ensure that the
vehicle is able to undertake the trip, and provide a warning of potential
problems that may need further attention.
2. Walk around the vehicle
Begin your inspection by walking around the vehicle, and observing any
obvious items that need attention.
3. Check exterior component and system operation
Check the body condition to make sure that all the body components are
secure. Open and close doors to check that they are operating correctly.
Push and pull on the bumpers or fenders and ensure they are secure.
Inspect the external mirrors to ensure that they are secure and not broken.

Inspecting under body components
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to inspect all under body
components. This is a systematic visual inspection of all major vehicle systems.
Be prepared to note down any faults to discuss later with your supervisor.
Objective
Inspect all under body components.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
This is a systematic visual inspection of all major vehicle systems. Be

prepared to note down any faults to discuss later with your supervisor.
The steering area inspection includes tie-rods, tire and wheel assembly,
suspension bushes, shock absorbers and brake hoses.
In the transmission area, you'll be looking for fluid leaks, tightening

mounting bolts, and inspecting the clutch mechanism or shift linkage.
Clamps and bolts may need tightening on the exhaust system and
manifold pipe. You'll also be looking for signs of exhaust leaks, corrosion or
deterioration.
You'll be checking for any excess movement in driveline shafts.
Look for leaks around the differential and check the rear shock absorbers
or leaf springs.
The fuel tank must be secure and fuel lines inspected for damage or
abrasion.

1. Begin under vehicle visual inspection
Safely raise the vehicle to a comfortable working height. Be ready to
record any faults you find, and begin your inspection at either end of the
vehicle. Whichever end you choose, work systematically in one direction.
Note any problems you find and discuss them with your supervisor. Pay
particular attention to any fluid leaks, which will probably be the easiest
problems to spot.
2. Check steering area

Locate the tie-rods and move them through their operating arc. The action
should be smooth without binding. The tire and wheel assembly should
also move in a forward and backward direction to detect lateral movement
in the tie-rod end. Look carefully for missing or torn rubber boots around
tie rod ends or the steering shaft. At the same time, check the security of
the steering box mountings. Inspect any rubber suspension bush for
swelling or damage, and check shock absorbers for signs of damage or
leaks. Inspect any wiring harness that is accessible for any obvious
damage. Check the brake hoses, looking for signs of cracking or abrasions
3. Check transmission area
Check the transmission mounting bolts for tightness. Trace and record the
source of fluid leaks if you find any. With a manual transmission, check the
clutch operating mechanism for looseness or binding. For an automatic
transmission, check the shift linkage for smoothness of operation. If the
transmission is electronically controlled, check any wiring for obvious
damage.
4. Check exhaust system
Check the tightness of the flange bolts on the engine manifold pipe. Its
also important to make sure all the clamps on the exhaust system are
tight. If there is an exhaust leak, its usually identified by a blackish soot
deposit at the source of the leak. Examine the catalytic converter, muffler
and resonator for any signs of corrosion or deterioration. Check the tail
pipe for any corrosion, and looseness in the mounting brackets or hangers.
5. Check hand brake cables
Inspect the hand brake cable to make sure its not frayed, damaged or
binding.
6. Check driveline shafts
On any rear wheel drive vehicles, including pick-ups and SUVs, inspect
the drive shaft universal joints for signs of excess movement or rust. Rusty
powder marks near the front, and rear universal joints could indicate a
rusted and/or seized universal joint. To check for wear, rotate the shaft and
flange in opposite directions. There should be no movement in the joint.
On four-wheel drive vehicles, repeat this procedure on the front drive shaft
universals
7. Check differential and rear suspension area
On rear- wheel drive vehicles the rear axle housing supports the
differential unit. On front-wheel drives, the differential is usually located in
the transaxle housing. Inspect the pinion shaft oil seal for any obvious
signs of leakage. Next, check the rear shock absorbers for any signs of
physical damage or fluid leaks. Tighten all the suspension mounting bolts,
noting any bolt that s loose. Inspect the suspension mounting bushes for
any signs of deterioration or damage. This will include any control arms or
struts. If the vehicle is fitted with leaf springs, inspect the leafs for any
cracks or misalignment. On a front wheel drive vehicle, inspect the rear

strut assembly for any physical damage or signs of fluid leaks. Inspect the
brake hoses for any obvious signs of cracking or abrasion.
8. Check fuel tank area
Tighten the fuel tank mounting bolts or retaining clamp bolts, noting any
bolt thats loose. Carefully check all the fuel lines for any signs of damage
or abrasions that may cause a leak.
9. Discuss problems with your supervisor
After completing the inspection, discuss your list of problems with your
supervisor to see what action can be taken to fix the problems
Inspecting under body components
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to inspect all under body
components. This is a systematic visual inspection of all major vehicle systems.
Be prepared to note down any faults to discuss later with your supervisor.
Objective
Inspect all under body components.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
This is a systematic visual inspection of all major vehicle systems. Be

prepared to note down any faults to discuss later with your supervisor.
The steering area inspection includes tie-rods, tire and wheel assembly,
suspension bushes, shock absorbers and brake hoses.
In the transmission area, you'll be looking for fluid leaks, tightening

mounting bolts, and inspecting the clutch mechanism or shift linkage.
Clamps and bolts may need tightening on the exhaust system and
manifold pipe. You'll also be looking for signs of exhaust leaks, corrosion or
deterioration.
You'll be checking for any excess movement in driveline shafts.
Look for leaks around the differential and check the rear shock absorbers
or leaf springs.
The fuel tank must be secure and fuel lines inspected for damage or
abrasion.

1. Begin under vehicle visual inspection
Safely raise the vehicle to a comfortable working height. Be ready to
record any faults you find, and begin your inspection at either end of the
vehicle. Whichever end you choose, work systematically in one direction.
Note any problems you find and discuss them with your supervisor. Pay
particular attention to any fluid leaks, which will probably be the easiest
problems to spot.
2. Check steering area
Locate the tie-rods and move them through their operating arc. The action
should be smooth without binding. The tire and wheel assembly should
also move in a forward and backward direction to detect lateral movement
in the tie-rod end. Look carefully for missing or torn rubber boots around
tie rod ends or the steering shaft. At the same time, check the security of
the steering box mountings. Inspect any rubber suspension bush for
swelling or damage, and check shock absorbers for signs of damage or
leaks. Inspect any wiring harness that is accessible for any obvious
damage. Check the brake hoses, looking for signs of cracking or abrasions
3. Check transmission area
Check the transmission mounting bolts for tightness. Trace and record the
source of fluid leaks if you find any. With a manual transmission, check the
clutch operating mechanism for looseness or binding. For an automatic
transmission, check the shift linkage for smoothness of operation. If the
transmission is electronically controlled, check any wiring for obvious
damage.
4. Check exhaust system
Check the tightness of the flange bolts on the engine manifold pipe. Its
also important to make sure all the clamps on the exhaust system are
tight. If there is an exhaust leak, its usually identified by a blackish soot
deposit at the source of the leak. Examine the catalytic converter, muffler
and resonator for any signs of corrosion or deterioration. Check the tail
pipe for any corrosion, and looseness in the mounting brackets or hangers.
5. Check hand brake cables
Inspect the hand brake cable to make sure its not frayed, damaged or
binding.
6. Check driveline shafts
On any rear wheel drive vehicles, including pick-ups and SUVs, inspect
the drive shaft universal joints for signs of excess movement or rust. Rusty
powder marks near the front, and rear universal joints could indicate a
rusted and/or seized universal joint. To check for wear, rotate the shaft and
flange in opposite directions. There should be no movement in the joint.
On four-wheel drive vehicles, repeat this procedure on the front drive shaft
universals
7. Check differential and rear suspension area
On rear- wheel drive vehicles the rear axle housing supports the
differential unit. On front-wheel drives, the differential is usually located in
the transaxle housing. Inspect the pinion shaft oil seal for any obvious
signs of leakage. Next, check the rear shock absorbers for any signs of
physical damage or fluid leaks. Tighten all the suspension mounting bolts,
noting any bolt that s loose. Inspect the suspension mounting bushes for
any signs of deterioration or damage. This will include any control arms or
struts. If the vehicle is fitted with leaf springs, inspect the leafs for any
cracks or misalignment. On a front wheel drive vehicle, inspect the rear
strut assembly for any physical damage or signs of fluid leaks. Inspect the
brake hoses for any obvious signs of cracking or abrasion.
8. Check fuel tank area
Tighten the fuel tank mounting bolts or retaining clamp bolts, noting any
bolt thats loose. Carefully check all the fuel lines for any signs of damage
or abrasions that may cause a leak.
9. Discuss problems with your supervisor
After completing the inspection, discuss your list of problems with your
supervisor to see what action can be taken to fix the problems
Measuring a wheelbase
Summary
The wheelbase is the distance between the center of the front wheel and the
center of the rear wheel and is normally the same on both sides of the vehicle.
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to identify and measure the
wheelbase.
Objective
Identify and measure the wheelbase.
Personal safety
Safety check
safety procedures when working around vehicle chassis components. If
you are unsure of what these are, ask your supervisor.
Points to note
The vehicle chassis is the platform to which all the operating components
and systems of the vehicle are attached. It is important that the chassis is
straight and square so that steering and suspension components can
operate in the intended manner.
Manufacturers specify dimensions in relation to the location of the wheels.

Two particular dimensions are:
o
Wheelbase
Track
The wheelbase is the distance between the center of the front wheel and
the center of the rear wheel and is normally the same on both sides of the
vehicle.
Some vehicles may have different wheelbase measurements from left to

right. This is the exception rather than the rule. Always check the
manufacturer's specifications before you take the measurements.
The track is the measurement between the center of the left wheel tread
and the center of the right wheel tread. It is common for the front track
and the rear track to differ.
If the dimensions differ from the manufacturer's specifications, refer to

your supervisor.
Two other dimensions should be noted:

o
The overall length of the vehicle. This is the distance between the
front and rear extremities.
The overall width of the vehicle. This is the distance from the
extreme right side to the extreme left side of the vehicle, but not
usually including the external mirrors.
These measurements are particularly important for legislative purposes. A

vehicle's overall length and width can determine the roads where it can
legally operate.
The majority of service departments will have some form of electronic

equipment to measure the axle alignment. When there is no specialized
equipment, a basic method of checking axle alignment or the wheelbase
can be carried out with simple tools. We have outlined this procedure in
this module. The procedure shown here is not the only measuring method,
but shows how to carry out these checks if no specialized equipment is

available.
Carry out this procedure with specialized equipment if it is available and

you have been trained to use it.

1. Prepare the vehicle
Position the vehicle on a flat surface with the road wheels pointing straight
ahead. Engage the emergency brake and place the transmission in neutral
or park, then turn off the ignition.
2. Select appropriate measuring equipment
You will need to prepare a measuring device. Such as a straight length of
wood or steel with two moveable pointers attached.
3. Compare distances between axles on both sides
Place the length of steel, with the two moveable pointers attached, next to
the front and rear wheels on one side of the vehicle. Align the two pointers
to the centers of the front and rear axles. Tighten the pointers to the
position of the axle centers. Alternatively, use a mechanics set-square to
align the front and rear axle centers with the length of steel, and mark the
steel with chalk or marking pencil. Move the measuring device to the other
side of the vehicle and check to see if the pointers align with the axle
centers on this side. Compare the two; they should be the same. If one
side of the vehicle has wheels significantly closer together or further
apart, refer this to your supervisor.
4. Measure the wheelbase between marks
Remove the length of steel and measure the distance between the two
marks. This will give you the distance between the two wheel axles.
Checking windshield washer liquid
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to inspect and refill a
windshield washer fluid reservoir. Remember to only use an approved windshield
washer fluid.
Objective
Inspect and refill a windshield washer fluid reservoir.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Only use an approved windshield washer fluid.

1. Locate washer fluid reservoir
Locate the windshield wiper fluid container. This is normally found under
the hood and is usually a plastic bottle or bag.
2. Check the fluid level
Some vehicles have electrical sensors incorporated into the reservoir, and
an indicator lamp on the inside of the vehicle will show the driver when
the system needs to be filled. In most vehicles the fluid level is visible and
a marker on the reservoir indicates the correct fluid level.
3. Fill reservoir
Choose an appropriate washer fluid. Some fluids are concentrated and
need to be mixed with water. Never use laundry-washing detergent to top
up the reservoir, as the chemicals in the detergent can be detrimental to
the vehicle paintwork. Take care not to spill the fluid, and fill the reservoir
to between the minimum and maximum marks.

Checking & replacing wiper blades
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to check the condition of
windshield wiper blades and arms and change a windshield wiper blade. Never
operate the wipers when they are dry because this may damage the blades or
scratch the surface of the windshield.
Objective
Check the condition of windshield wiper blades and arms and change a
windshield wiper blade.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Never operate the wipers when they are dry because this may damage the
blades or scratch the surface of the windshield.
Never bend the arms to make better contact with the windshield. The
arms are pre-tensioned by the manufacturer and damage could result. If
the arms seem to have lost their spring tension, obtain a suitable
replacement.

1. Check windshield wiper blades
Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield and inspect the condition of
the blades. Look for damage or loss of resilience in the material. Wet the
windshield with a spray, or with the washers and switch the wipers on. If
the windshield is being wiped cleanly, do not replace the blades. If the
wiper blades are not wiping the glass evenly, or are smearing the
windshield, you will need to replace the blades.
2. Remove blade assembly
Remove the blade assembly. Depending on the vehicle, you may need to
remove the wiper arm from its mounting, or you may be able to just undo
a spring clip and remove the blade insert.
3. Obtain replacement blade
Check the shop manual and obtain the correct size replacement. New
developments in blade design means that the profile of the new blade
may not be identical to the original.
4. Install inserts
Feed the new inserts into the wiper arm, and make sure the clips fit snugly
and engage properly.
5. Test blades
Wet the windshield again, and operate the wipers to check their
performance, making sure they remove the water evenly.
Checking a security system
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to check an automotive
security system on a vehicle. Transponders are designed to cope with normal
operating stresses. If the transponder is not working properly you might need to
replace its battery.
Objective
Check an automotive security system on a vehicle.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Some systems are movement sensitive, so it is difficult to try to start the

car from the inside. Your movement will set the alarm off.
Some vehicle security transponders may not operate in some

environments. This may be because there is strong electromagnetic
interference in the area.
If a transponder does not seem to operate verify that it belongs to the

vehicle you are attempting to unlock. It may be that a busy service advisor
has mislabeled the key and transponder from another vehicle.
Transponders are designed to cope with normal operating stresses. Do not

drop them into liquid or subject them to extreme heat or force.

1. Set the security system
This section deals with vehicle security and alarms. When the system is
armed, an LED type light usually blinks on the dash. In some cases you will
also hear an audible tone. Sit inside the vehicle with the doors shut. Lock
the doors and activate the security system. This is usually done with a
transponder. The transponder that turns the security system on and off is
usually a small battery-powered device attached to the key ring, or built in
to the ignition key itself.
2. Test the security system
Start the engine. If the security system immobilizes the engine then this
action should not be possible. If the security system is an audible alarm, it
should now go off. If the security system works properly, move the vehicle
to a different location - for instance, outside the workshop - and test it
again. A transponder can suffer from electronic interference and may work
better in some locations than others.
3. Check transponder operation
If the security test fails, check whether or not the transponder has power
and is operating correctly. If it operates the door locks as well as the
security system, locking and unlocking the vehicle will confirm that the
transponder is working.
4. Replace transponder battery

If the transponder is not working properly you might need to replace its
battery. To do this, you will need to refer to the specific manufacturers
specifications for changing the battery to re-test the unit.
5. Action on failure
If either the security system or the transponder is not working, you should
report it to your supervisor.
Checking door hinges
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to lubricate door hinges and
locks and adjust jams. Different manufacturers use different forms of latches and
locking mechanisms, so always make sure that you have the correct service
manual for the job you are working on.
Objective
Lubricate door hinges and locks and adjust jams.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Different manufacturers use different forms of latches and locking

mechanisms.
Always make sure that you have the correct service manual for the job you
are working on.
On vehicles with heavy doors, such as some older vehicles and

convertibles, the door latch contains a locating wedge or pin. This locates
the door when closed, and takes some of the strain off the hinges.

1. Check door for hinge wear
Open the door to approximately 45 degrees to the car body. Wear gloves
when performing this test, in case there are any sharp edges underneath
the door. Put your hand under the base of the door, and lift it gently
against the hinges to see if there is excess wear in the pins. Some limited
amount of wear is always present, and you will usually be able to move
the door up and down a little at its outer edge. An excessive amount of
movement means the door is worn and has dropped. Report this to your
supervisor, as the hinges or door jams may need to be adjusted.
2. Check door closure
Gently push the door closed. If the door shuts smoothly with a distinct
click, then the door is catching the locking or latch mechanism as it is
designed to do. Push the door in further, and you should hear a second
click. This indicates that the door is adjusted correctly.
3. Lubricate hinges
Fully open each door. Using a manufacturer-approved lubricant, apply it to
the tops of each hinge. Generally, lower hinges have a door check roller,
cam and spring incorporated into the assembly. You should also lubricate
the roller part of the assembly. Now swing the door gently back and forth
to allow the lubricant to penetrate into the hinges. Wipe any excess
lubricant from the external parts of the hinges.
4. Lubricate lock and latch mechanism
Using a manufacturers approved lubricant, apply it to each locking or
latch mechanism. Generally the locking and latch mechanism is in the
door itself, so the lock needs to be worked to allow the lubricant to
penetrate into the mechanism. Operate the latch by opening and closing
the door, and from both the outside and the inside of the vehicle. Wipe
any excess lubricant from the external parts of the locking mechanism.
Checking a seat belt
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to check the condition and
security of automotive seatbelts. Any seatbelt that has been involved in a severe
impact may have been weakened and should be replaced.
Objective
Check the condition and security of automotive seatbelts.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Many vehicles have additional motorized mechanisms to help the seat

belts operate. Always ensure that manufacturer's instructions are followed
when lubricating and servicing these types of units.
Any seatbelt that has been involved in a severe impact may have been
weakened and should be replaced.

1. Check anchor points of seatbelt
There are three anchor points on lap and sash type seatbelts and two on
lap only type seatbelts. First, check the side anchor bolt that holds the
buckle end in place. Make sure it is sound and secure. Next, check the
security of the bolt on the retractor housing. This is usually located near
the bottom of the door panel next to the seat. Above the retractor is the
upper anchor bolt. These bolts are sometimes adjustable in a slider unit.
Check that this is also secure.
2. Inspect seatbelt for fraying or wearing
Examine the seatbelt material to see if there is any fraying or excessive
wear. Check the seatbelt label for an expiry date. If the belt is past its
use-by date, then report this to your supervisor, as the belt should be
replaced.
3. Check seatbelt retraction
Pull the seatbelt out slowly to check for smooth action. There should not
be any sticking, which might indicate a faulty retractor. Do this three times
to make sure that it is consistently smooth in operation.
4. Check seatbelt locking
Pull the seatbelt out quickly to see that it locks and releases. The belt
should lock when pulled suddenly, which is vital during emergency braking
or collisions.
5. Check retractor operation
If the belt does not retract smoothly, remove the retractor housing and
test it again. If the belt now retracts smoothly, then the retractor housing
may need to be replaced. When the retractor is tilted beyond 45 degrees,
the belt should remain locked. If the belt fails to function correctly, report
it to your supervisor.
Checking interior trim
Summary
There are a number of different ways trim panels can be fixed in place, so refer
to the shop manual for details of the panel fixing methods used in your vehicle.
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to remove and replace
interior trim components.
Objective
Remove and replace interior trim components.
Personal safety
Safety check
Points to note
Different vehicles have different methods of trim fixture, although they all
follow similar methods of removal. The vehicle manufacturer's manual will
provide tips on the methods of removal.
Many cars have electric window winder mechanisms with activation

switches on the trim panels. Always make sure that you use the
recommended procedure, so that you do not trap wires between the door
inner panel and the trim panel. This could cause an electrical short and
damage the vehicle.

1. Check fixing method
There are a number of different ways trim panels can be fixed in place, so
refer to the shop manual for details of the panel fixing methods used in
your vehicle.
2. Remove fittings
Remove any external fixtures on the panel, such as armrests or window
winders, and place them in a safe clean place. These components may be
held in place by screws or clips. Try not to damage them during removal.
3. Obtain replacement clips
Many panels are held in place with clips in what look like keyholes. These
clips are normally made out of plastic and they can easily be broken
during removal, so always make sure you have some replacement clips for
the re-assembly process. It is better to sacrifice a few replaceable clips
than to risk damaging the panel itself.
4. Remove panel
Most manufacturers have a special tool for removing the panel clips.
Gently slide the tool under the panel and work your way along it until you
locate a clip. Remove the tool and then replace it over the clip. Press down
and the clip should pop out of its location. Repeat the process around the
panel until it is completely unfastened. Lower the window, place your
hands on the side of the panel, and wiggle it upwards. This should lift the
panel from its seating, allowing you to remove it.
5. Replace panel
To replace the panel, make sure that all the panel clips are in place. Now
lift the panel back in, and hook it over the inner door panel. Line up the
clips with their location points and firmly push them into place. You will
here a distinctive click as they lock in.
6. Replace fittings
Replace the armrests and any other components, such as window winder
mechanisms. Clean off any finger marks with an approved solvent and a
cloth that will not damage the panel material.
Checking driver's seat fabric
Summary
Poor seat condition can be the subject of a safety defect, making the vehicle
unroadworthy. The objective of this procedure is to show you how to check the
driver's seat for security and condition.
Objective
Check the driver's seat for security and condition.
Personal safety
Safety check
If you use glue to make small fabric or vinyl repairs, do this in a wellventilated area.
Points to note
If the existing seat cover is damaged, it is sometimes possible to make

small repairs with some fabric or vinyl glue, depending on the original
material. This will stop the nicks or small tears from getting any worse. If
you do this, follow the instructions on how to apply the glue.
If the seat fabric is badly ripped, or you can see the springs or seat frame,
you should take the seat to a specialized upholstery repair shop. In some
places, it is a legal requirement that the seat be in a "secure condition",
even if it has a fitted seat cover placed over the damage. Poor seat
condition can be the subject of a safety defect, making the vehicle
unroadworthy. You should check your local laws.
If the driver's seat is damaged but still safe and structurally sound, it may
be possible to swap it with the front passenger seat, if that one is in better
condition. The passenger's comfort is less of a potential driving hazard.

1. Inspect visually
If a removable seat cover has been fitted, remove it so that you can see
the original fabric. Inspect the seat for overall condition. The important
thing to note is if the springs or frame inside the seat are visible through
the fabric. If there are nicks or small tears, then note them down so that
they can be reported to the customer.
2. Check the seat security
Now, look at the seat runners and their fixtures. Check to see that they are
mounted according to the manufacturers recommendations, and that the
mounting points are free from corrosion or rust.
3. Check the seat operation
Check that the seat adjustment features operate correctly, as shown in the
drivers operation manual. If any of them fails to function properly, make a
note on your work order and report the fault to your supervisor.
Vehicle valet service
Summary
The objective of this procedure is to show you how to wash, polish and detail a
vehicle using the appropriate methods. You should always follow MSDS, HAZMAT
and other related product information when storing any hazardous material.
Objective
Wash, polish and detail a vehicle using the appropriate methods.
Personal safety
Safety check
Mix any detergents according to manufacturer specifications.
Keeping cleaners and solvents in workshop quantities can be a safety

hazard, and so can disposing of impregnated cleaning cloths and product
residues, unless correct procedures are followed. You should always follow
MSDS, HAZMAT and other related product information when storing any
hazardous material. For instance, there may be a limit on the amount of
materials that may be kept a container/cupboard of a particular size, or
there may be ventilation requirements.
Consult your local legislative authority to get information on what you may
and may not do in relation to the storage of hazardous materials.
Cleaning chemicals and detergents are a potential environmental hazard.

Make sure that the area used for washing and detailing a vehicle meets all
local environmental regulations, particularly in regard to preventing
contaminants from flowing into storm water drainage systems. Ideally,
waste run-off should be collected in underground grease traps and treated
before disposal.
Use the recommended polishing cloth for the polish being used, and do
not rub too hard when polishing the vehicle, so you do not damage the
paintwork.
It is important not to damage or tear the vehicle floor drain plugs (or
bungs) during removal or installation as this can allow water in from the
outside of the vehicle during rain or snow. The effect of this may not be
immediately noticeable, however, over time, the gradual ingress of water
can cause the carpets to rot and in extreme cases can cause the floor pan
to rust out.
Some wheel covers simply pry off, some only come off when the wheel
nuts are undone; so if you do need to remove them, carefully check the
method of removal for the vehicle you are working on. If the wheel nuts
have to be removed, make sure you use the correct safety procedures
when loosening the nuts and raising the vehicle prior to removing them.
Points to note
Cleaning chemicals and detergents are a potential environmental hazard.

Make sure that the area used for washing and detailing a vehicle meets all
local environmental regulations, particularly in regard to preventing
contaminants from flowing into storm water drainage systems.
In this example, at a vehicle dealership, the waste run-off is collected in

underground grease traps (below the metal cover plates) and treated
before disposal.
Use the proper polishing cloth; otherwise you could damage the
paintwork.
When polishing the vehicle, do not rub too hard.
Some products can only be used in particular applications and so it is

important that you select the correct product for the task. If you are
unsure you should always seek advice from your supervisor.
Carpets
There are usually two different types of carpet in a vehicle interior. The
first of these are floor mats which are used as carpet protectors and take
most of the wear from passengers feet. The second is the vehicle carpet
itself which is normally fitted in the vehicle before the seats and center
console and trim is installed. This carpet is there for its aesthetic effect,
but it also provides a sound deadening covering layer between the
passenger and the vehicle floor.
Wheels and tires
Steel wheels normally have decorative wheel covers which are made of
plastic or resin and are easy to clean with a brush and soapy water. The
covers do not usually need to be removed for cleaning.
Magnesium or aluminum alloy wheels do not have covers. If they are very
dirty they will need to be cleaned with a special solution prior to normal
washing. As there are many different products on the market make sure
that you read and follow the correct application instructions.
A finishing product such as tire black or tire shine can be applied to

the tires. This can be applied by pressure pack spray or by hand with a
brush dependent on the product. Choose an appropriate finishing product
based on the type and durability of finish you want.
Dashboards
Dashboards and instrument panel covers can be severely affected by

ultra-violet rays and extreme cold and it is common to use protective
agents on them. There are a range of products on the market and the
instructions on the packs should be carefully read as the different products
are not suitable for use on all materials. Never use such materials on
steering wheels or pedal rubbers as they can remain slippery for some
time and can be dangerous in operation as a result.
Carpets and cloth upholstery
There are many cleaning and solvent based products for removing carpet
and upholstery stains. Always follow the product information when
applying such products as the different dyes used in carpets and fabrics
can run as a result of the product use. Therefore you should always test
for colour fastness in an unseen part of the carpet or fabric to ensure
that the dye will not run when subjected to the cleaning material.
Leather upholstery
Leather vehicle interiors and seats can be severely affected by ultra-violet

rays and it is common to use protective agents on them. They are easier
to clean than fabric seats as dirt generally sits on the surface of the
leather - provided it has not been damaged. There are a range of products
on the market and the instructions on the packs should be carefully read
as the materials in different products may not be suitable for use in all
locations on the vehicle.
Vehicle body tar
Solvent products for removing tar from a vehicle body are all very similar.
The important thing is to use a product that will remove the amount of tar
adhering to the body without affecting the paint surface. Again, read the
manufacturers instructions on the product very carefully, and follow them.

1. Wash and degrease
Pressure clean the outside of the vehicle thoroughly with plain water to
remove all loose dust and street dirt. Wash under the wheel arches and
inside the engine compartment. Mix the degreaser concentrate as
recommended by the manufacturer. Spray the diluted degreaser all over
the outside of the vehicle, including the road wheels and under the wheel
arches. Let it work on the paintwork for a minute or so, to soften hardened
or baked-on dirt and grease. Rinse the degreaser off with water using a
pressure cleaner.
If there are any signs of contaminants still on the paintwork, re-apply the
degreaser, then wash it off again. You may need to carry out these steps a
number of times until the contaminants soften and are rinsed away.
Ensure that all the degreaser solution has been thoroughly rinsed off.
Do not scratch the contaminant off with a scraper as this could easily
damage the painted surface.
2. Hand wash with suds solution
Ensure the detergent concentrate has been mixed according to the
manufacturers specifications. Start at the top of the vehicle and work
down. Do not rub the surface hard, and use your other hand to feel for the
smoothness of the paint surface.
Allow the detergent to work on the paintwork for a minute or so before
rinsing. Rinse off the detergent suds with fresh water.
3. Dry the vehicle
Use two chamois cloths for drying - one for the paintwork, and the second
for the road wheels and wheel arches. After drying off the water, check
around the vehicle and clean off any water that may have come away
from vehicle gutters and crevices. Dry inside all the door jams, in the boot
and any other location where water could seep. If you find any spots of dirt
still attached to the paint surface, gently remove them with a clean rag
and a little kerosene.
4. Hand polish the vehicle
Use a piece of new, thin soft foam rubber to apply the polish. Apply the
liquid polish using a very light circular rubbing action. Do not rub hard as
this can score the paint surface.
Using a soft cotton flannelette, remove the polish. It is a good idea to have
a similar cloth in each hand. In this way, while you polish with one hand,
you can lean on the vehicle to support yourself with the other hand
without leaving greasy handprints. You can also swap polishing hands
quickly if one gets tired. Check along the vehicle to ensure you have
removed all the polish and that no imperfections show up in the paint or
the panels.
5. Clean all other surfaces
If there are any stickers on the glass area that should not remain there,
remove them carefully with a razor blade, dampening them first if
necessary.
Using glass cleaner spray, carefully clean all the glass surfaces on the
vehicle. Use a large wad of rolled up soft paper to clean the glass surfaces.
As the paper becomes dirty and wet, tear off the outer layers to reveal
clean, dry paper again.
Clean and brush the tires with a suitable solution that will protect the
rubber, and enhance its appearance. Wipe off any excess solution from the
paintwork or wheels.
6. Clean floor mats and carpets
Remove the floor mats and always clean them outside the vehicle.
Vacuum the mats to remove loose dust and grit. Use an approved carpet
cleaner and spray evenly over the mat. Using a clean, soft cloth, work the
cleaner into the carpet and blot any residue.
7. Detail the interior
Remove all interior containers for cleaning, noting their locating device.
Spray an appropriate cleaner onto the dashboard and instrument panel
and wipe clean using a soft, clean cloth before leaving the area to cure.
Never use dashboard cleaners on steering wheels or pedal rubbers as they
can remain slippery for some time.

Clean and replace interior containers. You should hear the locating device
click into place as it locates itself.
On fabric seats, spray an appropriate fabric cleaner directly onto the seat.
Massage the cleaner into the stain and allow it to stand for a few minutes
and massage the stain again.
Remove any excess cleaner with a damp absorbent cloth and allow the
seat to dry before vacuuming. Repeat the process if necessary.
On leather seats, apply an appropriate cleaner using a soft clean cloth and
rub gently into the leather.
Leave the cleaned leather to cure to form a protective layer on the seat
and help protect it from further stains.
8. Clean sunroof glass
If the sunroof is a fixed type, unclip and remove or slide back any shades
or roof linings that cover the inside of the sunroof.
Using the operation lever or the operation mechanism control, open the
roof.
Clean the glass on the sunroof using a recommended cleaning agent.
Check and clean the channels on the vehicle that the sunroof locates in
and ensure the drains are clear and able to take excess water away from
the roof channel.
Routine vehicle checks
Summary
There are four manufacturer-recommended scheduled service types. They are:
pre-delivery service, first service, distance-based service and time-based service
Scheduled servicing
There are four manufacturer-recommended scheduled service types. They are:
Pre-delivery Service
First Service
Distance-based Service
Time-based Service
Pre-delivery service
A pre-delivery service is performed on a new vehicle before it is delivered to the
customer. It is performed to check that the vehicle is in correct working order and
is operating as the manufacturer intended. It is also the time to check that the
required options are installed and dealer fitted accessories fitted.
First service
A first service is usually performed at around 1000 miles (m) or 1500 kilometers
(km). Its function is to check the general condition of the vehicle, change the
engine oil and make any minor adjustments. The owner may also require some
early warranty repairs.
Distance-based service
Distance based services are used to maintain the vehicle at its optimum
condition after a set amount of use. The distance between the services varies
and can range from 3000 m or 5000 km upward depending on the manufacturer.
Minor services are performed at shorter intervals, and major services performed
at longer intervals. A major service includes the items performed at a minor
service, but also includes other service items that need to be performed less
frequently. At a service, lubricants can be changed, items such as spark plugs
and filters replaced and adjustments and checks performed on components that
wear out, such as brake pads and tires.
Time-based service
Time based services protect a vehicle from deterioration over time rather than
from the amount of use, which is measured by the distance traveled. These are
performed when a vehicle is not used very much and travels only a small
distance over a period of time. Minor services are performed at 6-month
intervals. Major services are performed every 12 months. Lubricants and fluids
have a service life and should be changed even if the vehicle has covered only a
few miles or kilometers since the last service. Time based services are also
performed on a seasonal basis, to prepare the vehicle for the onset of summer or
winter.
Non-scheduled servicing
Pre-trip check
Out of phase services are performed on a vehicle prior to a long trip and can
involve a check of components as well as the replacement of drive belts, hoses,
tires etc. If the vehicle is within 700 m (1000 km) of a scheduled service it is
appropriate to perform all service tasks at this time. An out of phase service may
also prepare the vehicle for travel into a different country or to a different
climate and may include fitting driving or fog lamps, or altering the coolant mix.
Routine vehicle checks
The vehicle owner is responsible for some routine checks. The checks should be
performed weekly and include:
Engine oil level
Coolant level
Battery electrolyte level
Brake fluid level
Tire pressure
Screen washer fluid
These services require a small degree of skill and are often overlooked, resulting
in minor breakdowns.

Identifying Engines

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Identifying Engines

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Identifying engines

Inline engines can be found in 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 cylinder configurations. There

Horizontally opposed engines are commonly found in 2, 4, 6, and 12 cylinder

In vehicle applications, the number of cylinders can vary, usually from 4, up to

Light vehicle vans

Light vehicle vans can be based on common sedan designs, or redesigned so

General goods transport vehicles

Buses & coaches

A convertible (commonly known as a 'cabriolet' in Europe) is an automobile that

Some manufacturers are no longer fitting an engine compartment release to

vehicles, check the owner's manual, or the manufacturers manual, as

Engine & transmission configurations

An engine can be located at the

Location of driving axles

Transmissions & final drives

4-wheel drive transmission

A chassis is an underlying supporting structure such as a skeleton in an animal,

Carrying out a visual inspection

Carry out a preliminary visual inspection.

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks

Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs

Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream

Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators

Be sure to work in a systematic manner, or you could miss a faulty bulb or

Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

Inspect all under body components.

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks

Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs

Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream

Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators

This is a systematic visual inspection of all major vehicle systems. Be

In the transmission area, you'll be looking for fluid leaks, tightening

You'll be checking for any excess movement in driveline shafts.

Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

2. Check steering area

cracks or misalignment. On a front wheel drive vehicle, inspect the rear

Inspecting under body components

Inspect all under body components.

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks

Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs

Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream

Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators

This is a systematic visual inspection of all major vehicle systems. Be

In the transmission area, you'll be looking for fluid leaks, tightening

You'll be checking for any excess movement in driveline shafts.

Part 2: Step-by-step instruction

Identify and measure the wheelbase.

Work clothing - such as coveralls and steel-capped footwear

Eye protection - such as safety glasses and face masks

Ear protection - such as earmuffs and earplugs

Hand protection - such as rubber gloves and barrier cream

Respiratory equipment - such as face masks and valved respirators

Manufacturers specify dimensions in relation to the location of the wheels.

Some vehicles may have different wheelbase measurements from left to

If the dimensions differ from the manufacturer's specifications, refer to

Two other dimensions should be noted:

These measurements are particularly important for legislative purposes. A

The majority of service departments will have some form of electronic

but shows how to carry out these checks if no specialized equipment is

Carry out this procedure with specialized equipment if it is available and

Part 2: Step-by-step instruction