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LUMINOUS CARE

VJA

ASI Contact Person :Thimmanna.


Address :Luminous Power Technologies Pvt. Ltd. Door no 39-10-16 , Veterinary Hospital Road ,
Labbipet 520010..
City: Vijaywada; State: Andhra Pradesh
Contact No.: 9908844798, 0866- 3078345

VSKP
ASI Contact Person :Thimmanna.
Address :48-6-13/7,Srinagar,Rama Takies 530016.
City: Vishakhapatnam; State: Andhra Pradesh
Contact No.: 9908844798, 0891 - 6002333

****************************.
From supply of power to one room apartments to large multistory buildings , Luminous Inverters are
available for every application- Solar Power Inverters , wind power to utility grid.

Luminous Inverter Price List India 2015


Luminous Square Wave UPS

Luminous 675VA LB UPS Price Rs.4,000

Luminous 875VA LB UPS Price Rs.5,000

Luminous 900VA LB UPS Price Rs.5,700

Luminous 1500VA(24V/ 2No. Battery) LB UPS Price Rs.6,800

Luminous 1100VA(12V) SAKTHI CHARGE UPS Price Rs.6,300

Luminous Sine Wave UPS

Luminous 675VA SINE WAVE UPS Price Rs.4,500

Luminous 875VA SINE WAVE UPS Price Rs.5,500

Luminous 1500VA(24V/ 2 Nos. Battery) SINE WAVE UPS Price Rs.7,500

Luminous 2 KVA (24V/ 2 Nos. Battery) SINEWAVE UPS Price Rs.12,500

Luminous 2.5 KVA (36V/ 3 Nos. Battery) SINEWAVE UPS Price Rs.15,000

Luminous 3.5 KVA (48V / 4 Nos. Battery) SINEWAVE UPS Price Rs.17,500

Luminous Inverter Battery Price List Click Here


Inverter Load Capacity

2 ceiling fans + 2 Tube-light + 1 TV 21-inch = 600VA

3 ceiling fans + 4 Tube-light + 1 32-inch LCD TV = 850VA

3 ceiling fans + 4 Tube-light + 1 TV 32-inch LCD TV + Fridge = 1500VA

7 ceiling fans + 8 Tube-light + 1 TV 32-inchLCD = 1500VA

3 ceiling fans + 4 Tube-light + 1 TV 32-inch LCD + Fridge + Washing Machine + MixerGrinder = 2KVA

6 ceiling fans + 10 Tube-light + 1 TV 32-inch LCD + Washing Machine + MixerGrinder = 3KVA

1 ceiling fans+ 1 Tube-light + 0.75 Ton AC = 3KVA

5 ceiling fans + 1 Tube-light + 1.5 Ton AC = 5KVA

Luminous Inverter Battery Price List in


India Tubular/Electra/Inverlast
Luminous Inverter Battery Price List in India 2015 (New Delhi-NCR NOIDA , Ghaziabad ,
Gurgaon and rest of India)

Luminous IL 16000 battery Price : Rs.9,600 ( Rs.7,550 on exchange with same capacity old
battery)

Capacity : 135 Ah

Battery Type : Tubular Lead Acid

Electrical Load (2 Fans + 2 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (4 to 6 Hours)

Electrical Load (4 Fans + 4 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (2 to 3 Hours)

Warranty : 36 Months Free of Cost

Luminous ILTT 500N battery Price : Rs.11,500 ( Rs.9100 on exchange with same capacity old
battery)

Capacity : 150 Ah

Battery Type : Tubular Lead Acid

Electrical Load (4 Fans + 4 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (2.25 to 3.25 Hours)

Electrical Load (2 Fans + 2 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (4.5 to 6.5 Hours)

Warranty : 24 Months Free of Cost

Luminous ILT 18030 battery Price : Rs.11,700 ( Rs.9,300 on exchange with same capacity old
battery)

Capacity : 150 Ah

Battery Type : Tubular Lead Acid

Electrical Load (4 Fans + 4 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (2.25 to 3.25 Hours)

Electrical Load (4 Fans + 4 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (4.5 to 6.5 Hours)

Warranty : 24 Months Free of Cost

Luminous ILTT 18048 battery Price : Rs.13,800 ( Rs.11,400 on exchange with same capacity old
battery)

Capacity : 150 Ah

Battery Type : Tubular Lead Acid

Electrical Load (4 Fans + 4 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (2.25 to 3.25 Hours)

Electrical Load (2 Fans + 2 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (4.5 to 6.5 Hours)

Warranty : 36 Months Free of Cost

Luminous IL 18000 Plus battery Price : Rs.10,500 ( Rs.8100 on exchange with same capacity old
battery)

Capacity : 150 Ah

Battery Type : Tubular Lead Acid

Electrical Load (4 Fans + 4 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (2.25 to 3.25 Hours)

Electrical Load (2 Fans + 2 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (4.5 to 6.5 Hours)

Warranty : 18 Months Free of Cost

Luminous LE 19000 Plus battery Price : Rs.10,200 ( Rs.7800 on exchange with same capacity
old battery)

Capacity : 155 Ah

Battery Type : Flat Plate Battery

Electrical Load (4 Fans + 4 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (2.25 to 3.25 Hours)

Electrical Load (2 Fans + 2 Tube Lights) Back-Up Time (4.5 to 6.5 Hours)

Warranty : 24 Months Free of Cost

Luminous Tubular Battery ILT 180 Price Rs.10,500 (Rs.8,100 on exchange with same capacity
old battery)

Battery Type : Tubular Lead Acid

Capacity : 150Ah

Model : ILT-180AH

Volt : 12V

Recommended Inverter Ratting : 300VA to 850VA

Warranty : 24 Months Free of Cost Warranty

Luminous Flat Plate Battery IL 1800 Price Rs.8,800 (Rs.6,900 on exchange with same capacity
old battery)

Battery Type : Flat Plate Lead Acid

Capacity : 150Ah

Model : IL 1800

Volt : 12V

Recommended Inverter Ratting : 300VA to 850VA

Warranty : 12 Months Free of Cost Warranty

Luminous Flat Plate Battery LE 1800 Price Rs.8,000 (Rs.6,100 on exchange with same
capacity old battery)

Battery Type : Flat Plate Lead Acid

Capacity : 150Ah

Model : LE 1800

Volt : 12V

Recommended Inverter Ratting : 300VA to 850VA

Warranty : 12 Months Free of Cost Warranty

Luminous LE 18000 Price Rs.8,800 (Rs.6,900 on exchange with same capacity old battery)

Battery Type : Flat Plate Lead Acid

Capacity : 150Ah

Model : LE 1800

Volt : 12V

Recommended Inverter Ratting : 300VA to 850VA

Warranty : 18 Months Free of Cost Warranty

******************.

Sri Sai Adithya Enterprises


+(91)-9885341867, 9542114733
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SR Enterprises
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Shah Battery Works


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Srenivaasaa Enterprises, Vijayawada


Luminous Battery - Inverter & UPS, Solar Thermal Collector Dealers, Inverter Battery
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*****************.

Float and Boost Charging of Batteries


Float charging is used where the battery rarely gets discharged. A typical
application where float charging can be used would consist of the float charger,
battery and the load in parallel. During normal operation, the load draws the power
from the charger. When the supply to the charger is interrupted, thebattery steps in.
Float charging of a battery involves charging the battery at a reduced voltage. This
reduced voltage reduces the possibility of overcharging.The Float charger ensures
that the battery is always in the charged condition and is therefore considered
"floating". The Float charger starts by applying a charging volltage to the battery. As
the battery gets charged, its charging current reduces gradually. The float charger
senses the reduction in charging current and reduces the charging voltage.
If the battery gets drained, the float charger will again increase the charging voltage
and process continues. Float chargers can be connected indefinitely to the
batteries.
Boost charging involves a high current for short period of time to charge the battery.

It is generally if the battery has been discharged heavily. Boost charge enables the
quick charging of depleted batteries.
For instance, a two volt lead acid battery which has been discharged will initially be
boost charged with a charging voltage of around 2.35-2.4 volts. However, as the
battery voltage rises, the charger will switch over to the float charge mode with a
float voltage of 2.25 volts.
Most battery chargers come equipped with provisions for both boost and float
charging.

**************.

Tubular Battery Maintenance


Posted by D.Mohankumar on April 18, 2010
Posted in: Articles, Circuit, Electronics, Energy, Hobby, Home, Science, Technology. Tagged: battery, battery
charger, battery charging, tubular battery, UPS battery.

41 Votes

Battery maintenance is very important when we use Home inverters. Generally Tubular
batteries are recommended due to its high efficiency and life span. Various makes and types are of
batteries are available in the market. . Tubular batteries are recommended to backup UPS and
Inverters where environmental conditions are tough and ambient temperatures are common. These
are capable of long hours of backup and the life period is around five years.

Battery is the backbone of the inverter. Maintenance free batteries come in Flat plate collectors and
are totally maintenance free. These batteries have a typical life of 4 years if properly charged and
maintained.
Tubular Battery
Tubular batteries high efficient types and they use active material Lead oxide encapsulated
inpolyester tubes (hence the name) to prevent Shadding. The electrode geometry in tubular
battery facilitates Cyclic deep discharges.
Tubular battery

Tubular battery Plates

UPS Battery

Lead Acid Battery


Lead Acid battery uses Sulphuric acid as the electrolyte. Specific gravity of the electrolyte is an
important parameter to determine the efficiency of the battery. Specific gravity of the electrolyte is the
weight of Sulphuric acid-water mixture compared to an equal volume of water. Pure water has the
specific gravity of 1.

Battery capacity and Efficiency

Capacity of the battery is expressed in terms of Ampere hour (Ah). 1 Ah is equal to 3600
Coulombs. If the battery provides 1 Ampere current in 1 hour, its capacity is 1Ah.If it gives 1
Amp current for 100 hours, it is 100 Ah. The discharge rate of the battery depends on how much
current is drained to drive the load. Typically a 100 Ah battery is rated to provide 5 Amps current
for 20 hours.
The efficiency of the battery is different at different discharge rate. If the battery is not using for long
periods, Self discharge will takes place at the rate of 5 Amps per week. Therefore it is
recommended to discharge and recharge the battery at least once in a week to keep it in top
condition.
Power loss in Inverter and Current consumption during charging.
No inverter can function efficiently. The working of the inverter depends on many factors like
conducted load, battery efficiency and maintenance. During operation, inverter will heat up and the
transformer will dissipate heat. So some energy will be lost which reduces the efficiency.
Proper charging of the battery and its efficiency to hold charge are two very important aspects.
Input voltage from the AC lines should be close to 230 volts for proper charging of the battery. Fully
charged battery will show 13.5 volts. Inverter should switch on charging immediately when the
battery voltage reduces to 12 volts. Charging current depends on the time taken to complete the
charging process and also the charge condition of the battery. If the battery is discharged
to80% of its efficiency, it will take 5 to 7 Ampere current for charging during the first few hours. Then
the current reduces to 500 milli amperes or less. A fully charged battery will not take any current.
Most inverters have two mode charging-Boost charging and Trickle charging. During boost
charging, around 5 to 7 ampere current will be utilized and during trickle charging only 25 to 50 milli
ampere current will be utilized.
What type of battery is most efficient?
Inverter batteries are available in various forms. The capacity of the battery is based on its Ah
(Ampere hour). It is the amount of current a battery can give during 1 hour of charge/discharge
cycle. In inverters, high capacity (100Ah, 150Ah) batteries are used to give sufficient backup time.
The formula to calculate the Ah of battery is
Total load in watts / Voltage of the battery x Backup hours required.

If 400 watts load is running on a 12 volt battery for 3 hours, then the capacity of the battery should
not be less than 100 Ah.
Ah = 400 W / 12 V x 3 = 100 Ah.
To increase the backup time, use 150 Ah battery or reduce the load from 400 W to 200 W or less.
Tips for proper maintenance
1. The battery surface should be clean and dust free. Clean it using backing soda-water mix
(without touching the terminal posts).
2. Cable connections to the battery terminals should be kept cleaned and tightened.
3. Top up the battery using mineral free distilled water. Do not allow the water to over fill. Excess
water will short circuit the battery plates. In tubular battery, water level indicators are attached.
Periodically observe the water level.
4. To prevent corrosion, coat the connectors and exposed part of the cable using Vaseline or
petroleum jelly.
5. Place the battery in a place where adequate ventilation is available and to observe periodically
6. Do not place any iron objects over the battery. It will cause short circuit and fire.
7. Do not try to remove the battery terminals if the inverter is switched on or connected to mains.
Disconnect the battery terminals only after switching off the inverter and the mains supply. While
removing the terminals, remove the negative terminal (Black) first. Take utmost care to prevent
shorting of positive and negative terminals through the connecting cables. Always observe the
polarity (polarity is indicated as Red colour or + mark for positive and Black or mark near the
terminals) while connecting the cables.
8. If the inverter is in the charged mode for more than 12 hours, it indicates that the battery is not
accepting charge. If it happens, disconnect it and check the battery for its charge holding capacity.
D.Mohankumar

************.

Service Tips

Servicing Tips

Acid Filling Procedure:

The battery physically for any damages/visible cracks and cleaned prior to
filling of acid.

The ways & means to increase the life and performance of lead-acid batteries

Check the sp. Gravity of acid of all the jerry cans corrected to 27c prior to
filling.
The most important part is the care during initial filling and charging
which determines the life & performance and knowledge about how a
Pour
cool dilute
battery
grade sulphuric acid 0f 1.220/1.190 sp. Gravity up
lead-acid
battery
works.
to the max. level by acifil pump, siphoning pipe or with funnel & jug
Doby
not
over fill
toregular
avoid spillage.
carefully.
Followed
proper
and
routine and preventive maintenance of
the battery banks.

To take corrective measures, one must have the knowledge of the


Polarity
check & Rest period Procedure:

normal failure modes of lead- acid batteries & the reasons for the failure.

Just
acidisfilling,
to check
polarity
of mode
the cells
checking
thesame,
voltage
If after
any one
conversant
of the
failure
andby
the
reason for
of all
the
cells,
if
any
cell
wrongly
reverses
assembled.
The
voltage
then will be in a position to rectify / prevent before it is too late.
observed is not that important at this point. Also check for any leakage
visible after filling

Initial filling & charging (IFC)

Allow 12 hours rest for the cooling; allow the plates & separators to soak

Generalacid,
requirement
but not more than 24 hours. Top up again with acid, same as fillingin sp. Gravity.
The battery room should be clean, dry & cool, with proper lighting &
ventilation. Batteries to be cleaned before initial filling.

Putting onMatching
First Charge
Procedure:
constant
current charger, should be available capable to

supply requisite volt & amps designed to give at 6% rate of charge up to


Use
onlyVPC
DC at
constant
current charger only for initial charging of batteries.
2.75
toc voltage

Ensure
the charger
in of
working
and capable
of 1.220
supplying
requisite
Sufficient
quantity
batterycondition
grade sulphuric
acid of
+ 0.005
sp.

volt
& amps
for the batteries
to&bebattery
charged.
Gravity
at required
27c conforming
to be 266
grade water conforming
to be 1069 should be available. Some stock of 1.400-sp.gravity sulphuric
acids
for adjustment
after
charging,
Take
careatof27c
polarity
and connect
thefull
pos.
Terminalifofrequired.
batteries with the
pos. & neg. Terminal with neg. Of the charger, respectively.
Dont use the blind plugs supplied with batteries. Keep the vent plugs
loose inmay
position,
to avoid
explosions.
Charging
be done
in 2 steps
or single step. In our tropical country
advisable to charge in single step, specially in summer
Caution: do not use any metallic vessel, only use plastic vessel &
protective
wears. Never
take open
flame
near
cells.
Never
- For
2 step charging
the initial
current
to be
12%
of the
C10connect
capacitythe
of
cableupto
loosely
with
the
cells
/ batteries
to of
avoid
sparks
& chance
of of the
battery
2.36
VPC
and
followed
by 6%
the C10
rated
capacity
explosion
melting
battery
upto /2.75
VPC. (For 500Ah battery 60 amps & 30 amps
respectively).

General requirement: Making dilute Acid

- For single step charging, the battery to be charged continuously at the


6% of
the C10from
ratedconcentrated
capacity of the
battery
VPC,
till the
Ifcurrent
dilute acid
prepared
acid
at site,upto
care2.75
to be
taken.
Do
end
of
charging
e.g.
30
amps
upto
2.75
VPC
for
a
500
Ah
battery
till
not use wooden or any other metal stirrer but to use plastic/lead inedend.
wooden oar only to aviod contamination. Compressed air can be used for
mixing but care should be taken to trap oil acid to be used.

Condition of Fully Charged Procedure:

To follow all laid down safety rules for diluting acid from 1.840-concentrated
acid.

The acid
to be used
after cooling,
Gravity
corrected
to 27c.
To continue
DC charging
at constant
currentsp.
till the
following
conditions
of fully charged
cells are observed:

Use acifil pump or siphoning with spring loaded control lever trap, during
acid filling to avoid spillage and surface / earth leakage.

rate.

No rise of voltage for 3 to 4 consecutive hourly readings, after reaching


2.75 VPC

No rise of sp.Gravity for 3 to 4 consecutive hourly readings, after reaching


2.75 VPC
**************.

Theoretical Ah input to be kept at the back of the mind- the input to be


to 5 times ofbattery
the Ah capacity
of the batterytime
i.e. For along
500 Ah
Whyapprox.
my 4.5
inverter
charging
battery the total Ah input to be 2250 Ah to 2500 Ah. (approx.time 75 to 85
hours)
& becoming
hot after adding distilled water?

Checks05
&Jun
Record
during
charging
Procedure:
Date:
2014
Posted
By: krishna
dora

Group: Science and

Technology
Category:
Technologyshould not be allowed to increase beyond
The electrolyte
temperature
50c, during charging if the temperature goes above 50c, the charging to
be suspended till the temp. of electrolyte comes down to 40 c, then only
start the charging again.
I wish
knowthe
why
my inverter
taking and
more
time
to charge
andof
to
Record
readings
of sp. battery
Gravity,isvoltage
the
electrolyte
temp.
cells, initially every 4 hourly and every hourly, after the cell voltage
becoming heated up after adding distilled water. It takes too long a period
reaches 2.4 VPC.
continuously charging and getting heated up. I poured three bottles of distilled
water to solve my problem. Please resolve my problem with correct answer.
First C10 Capacity test Procedure:

Batteries now charged ready - give a rest period of 12 hours for cooling & settling but not
Having a problem with overheating of an inverter battery after adding distilled
water? Follow the responses in this thread to know the opinions of others on
the possible reasons for an inverter battery getting overheated after adding
distilled water.

Author: Venkat Satish Mamidisetti 06 Jun 2014


Level: Gold
Points : 5 (Rs 4) Voting Score: 0

Member

Some heat is always generated in battery charging process due to the


electrolytic stress produced by zinc and copper electrodes. The movement of
electrolytic ions is the cause for the heating of battery and also batteries
contains thin foils of metal sheets which quickly absorb heat and retain the
heat for more longer time.
In your case leakage of electrolytic liquid may be the cause for heating. This
leakage may not be appearing physically as a liquid drain, but fast evaporation
can also make the electrolytic level fall beyond required level.
Adding huge amount of water may not be a ideal solution to this problem but it
is necessary to get it checked by authorized technician to resolve this issue.
Also check the terminals of your battery as a internal loose connection can also
make your battery get heated up without charging. Besides these reasons,
aging of the battery is also a cause for poor performance of battery.

Author: Gurjant 10 Jun 2014


4 (Rs 3) Voting Score: 0

Member Level: Gold

Points :

As told by the above author the electrolyte which you pore into your battery
when you put in distilled water or battery water generated heat as the
electrolytes are the reason for transfer of energy from the poles. So heating is
reasonable. Sometimes at night batteries tend to wobble up the water as if the
water is boiling inside and also you said that it takes longer to charge.
I remember my inverter battery used to take long time to charge when was
new and heat up too. But it stopped giving backup so we replaced it with a
new one. And the new one is working fine.
Keep a check with the battery date, the batteries needs to be changed from
time to time I am sure you are aware of that. And if you are thinking or
replacing the battery than sure I would like to tell you that the batteries are
cheap these days but I don't think they will be after few days so do whatever
diagnostics you want to do with the battery fast.

Author: naresh

22 Jun 2014

Member Level: Bronze

Points :

4 (Rs 2)

Voting Score: 0

The detailed description by above authors was excellent. as we all know that
the battery consists of two electrodes which are dipped in an
electrolyte.electrolyte is generally the oxide of electrode. in inverter the
electrodes used are zinc and copper and the electrolyte is zinc oxide.the
problem of charging duration and heat generated can be by electrolyte or
electrode.
DUE TO ELECTROLYTE ;
The level of electrolytic fluid may fall due to evaporation of fluid or by leakage
of fluid
the leaked inverter is very dangerous, so it should be discarded. There is no
much use of addition of distilled water. under the supervision of suitable
technician take suitable measures
The battery may get overheated even if either of the area of eletrodes are
demolished. these batteries should be replaced by new one.

*88888888888888888888888888888.

CHAPTER 14
WHAT'S WRONG WITH THE BATTERY?
When a man does not feel well, he visits a doctor. When he has trouble on his car, he takes the car
to a service station. What connection is there between these two cases? None whatever, you may
say. And yet in each instance the man is seeking service. The term "Service Station" generally
suggests a place where automobile troubles are taken care of. That does not mean, however, that
the term may not be used in other lines of business. The doctor's office is just as much a "Service
Station" as the automobile repair shop. The one is a "Health Service Station" and the other is an
"Automobile Service Station." The business of each is to eliminate trouble.
The battery repairman may think that he cannot learn anything from a doctor which will be of any use
to his battery business, but, as a matter of fact, the battery man can learn much that is valuable from
the doctor's methods of handling trouble. The doctor greets a patient courteously and always waits
for him to tell what his symptoms are. He then examines the patient, asking questions based on
what the patient tells him, to bring out certain points which will help in making an accurate diagnosis.
Very often such questioning will enable the doctor to determine just what the nature of the illness is.
But he does not then proceed to write out a prescription without making an examination. If he did,
the whole case might just as well have been handled over the telephone. No competent physician
will treat patients from a distance. Neither will he write out a prescription without making a physical

examination of the patient. The questioning of the patient and the physical examination always go
together, some questions being asked before an examination is made to give an approximate idea of
what is wrong and some during the examination to aid the doctor in making an accurate diagnosis.
The patient expects a doctor to listen to his description of the symptoms and to be guided by them in
the subsequent examination, but not to arrive at a conclusion entirely by the description of the
symptoms. A patient very often misinterprets his pains and aches, and tells the doctor that he has a
certain ailment. Yet the doctor makes his examination and determines what the trouble is, and
frequently find a condition which is entirely different from what the patient suspected. He then
prescribes a treatment based on his own conclusions and not on what the patient believes to be
wrong.
Calling for Batteries. A doctor treats many patients in his office, but also makes his daily calls on
others. Similarly, the battery repairman should have a service truck for use in calling for customers'
batteries, especially where competition is keen. Some car owners cannot bring their cars to the
repair shop during working hours, and yet if they knew that they could have their battery called for
and have a rental battery installed, they would undoubtedly have their battery tested and repaired
more frequently. In some instances a battery will be so badly run down that the car cannot be
started, and the car is allowed to stand idle because the owner does not care to remove his battery,
carry it to a service station and carry a rental battery with him. Batteries are heavy and generally
dirty and wet with acid, and few people wish to run the risk of ruining their clothes by carrying the
battery to a shop. The wise battery mail will not overlook the business possibilities offered by the call
for and deliver service, especially when business is slow. A Ford roadster with a short express body
will furnish this service, or an.),- old chassis may be fitted up for it at a moderate cost. Of course, you
must advertise this service. Do not wait for car owners to ask whether you will call for their batteries.
Many of them may not think of telephoning for such service, and even if they do, they might call up
some other service station.
When Batteries Come In
What does a man expect when he brings his battery to the battery service-station? Obviously lie
expects to be greeted courteously and to be permitted to tell the symptoms of trouble which he has
observed. He furthermore expects the repairman to examine and test the battery carefully before
deciding what repairs are necessary and not to tell him that he needs new positives, new separators,
or an entirely new battery without even looking at the battery.
When a car is brought to your shop, you are the doctor. Sonic part of the mechanism is in trouble,
and it is your duty to put yourself in charge of the situation. Listen to what the customer hp to say. He
has certainly noticed that something is wrong, or he would not have come to you. Ask him what he
has observed.
He has been driving the car, starting the engine, and turning on the lights, and certainly has noticed
whether everything. has been operating as it should. The things lie has noticed were caused by the
trouble -which exists. He may not know what sort of trouble they indicate, but you, as the battery
doctor can generally make a fairly accurate estimate of what the trouble is. You should, of course, do
more than merely listen to -what the customer says. You can question him as to how the car has
been used, just as the doctor, after listening- to what a patient has to say, asks questions to give him
a clue to what has caused such symptoms.
The purpose of the preliminary questioning and examination is not merely to make an accurate
diagnosis of the troubles, but to establish a feeling of confidence on the part of the customer. A man
who owns a car generally possesses an average amount of intelligence and likes to have it

recognized and respected. Your questioning- and examination will either show the customer that you
know your business and know what should be done, or it will convince him that you are merely
putting up a bluff to hide your ignorance.
What the customer wants to know is how much the, repairs will cost, and how soon lie may have his
battery again. Estimate carefully what the work, will cost, and tell him. If a considerable amount of
work is required and you cannot estimate how much time and material will be needed, tell the
customer that you will let him know the approximate cost later, when you have gone far enough with
the work to be able to make an estimate. If you find that the battery should be taken off, take it off
without any loss of time and put on a rental battery. If there is something wrong outside of the
battery, however, it will be necessary to eliminate the trouble before the car leaves the
shop.otherwise the same battery trouble will occur again. If there is no actual trouble outside the
battery, and if the driving conditions have been such that the battery is not charged sufficiently while
on the car, no actual repairs are necessary on the electrical system. The customer should be
advised to drive in about every two weeks to have his battery tested, and occasionally taken off and
given a bench charge. It is better to do this than to increase the charging rate to a value -which might
damage the generator or battery.
Adopt a standard method of procedure in meeting, a customer and in determining what is wrong and
what should be done. If the customer is one who brings his car in regularly to have the battery filled.
and tested, you will: be able to detect any trouble as soon as it occurs, and will be able to eliminate it
before the battery is seriously damaged. A change in the charging rate, cleaning of the generator
commutator or cutout contact points, if done in time, will often keep everything in good shape.
With a new customer who has had his battery for sometime, you must, however, ask questions and
make tests to determine what is wrong. Before sending the customer away with a new, rental, or
repaired battery, test the electrical system as described on page 276.
The most important transaction and one which will save you considerable argument and trouble is to
get everything down in black and white. Always try to have the customer wait while you test the
battery. If you find it necessary to open the battery do this in his presence. When he leaves there
should be no question as to what he shall have to pay for. If more time is required to determine the
necessary work, do not actually do the work without getting in touch with the owner and making a
written agreement as to what is to be done and how much the cost will be. The Service Record
shown in Fig. 183 may be used- for this purpose.
The following method of procedure is suggested as a standard. Follow it closely if possible, though
in some cases, where the nature of the trouble is plainly evident, this will not be necessary any more
than a doctor who sees blood streaming from a severe cut needs to question the patient to find out
what is wrong.
It may not always be necessary to ask all the questions which follow, or to ask them in the order
given, but they cover points which the repairman should know in order to work intelligently. Some of
the information called for in the questions may often be obtained without questioning the customer.
Do not, however, hesitate to ask any and all questions covering points which you wish to know.
1. Greet the customer with a smile.
Your manner and appearance are of great importance. Be polite and pleasant. Do not lose your
temper, no matter how much cause the customer gives you to do so. A calm, courteous manner will
generally cool the anger of an irate customer and make it possible to gain his confidence and good
will. Do not argue with your customers, Your business is to get the job and do it in an agreeable

manner. If you make mistakes admit it and your customer will come again. Keep your clothes neat
and clean and have your face and hands clean. Remember that the first glimpse the customer has of
the man who approaches him will influence him to a very considerable extent in giving you his
business or going elsewhere. Do not have a customer wait around a long time before he receives
any attention. If he grows impatient because nobody notices him when he comes in, it will be hard to
gain his confidence, no matter how well you may afterwards do the work.
2. What's the Trouble?
Let the customer tell you his story. While listening, try to get an idea of what may be wrong. When he
has given you all the information he can, question him so that you will be able to get a better idea of
what is wrong.
(a) How long have you had the battery? See page 242.
(b) Was it a new battery when you bought it?
(c) How often has water been added?
(d) Has distilled water been used exclusively, or has faucet, well, or river water ever been used?
Impure water may introduce substances which will damage or even ruin a battery.
(e) Has too much water been added? If this is done, the electrolyte will flood the tops of the jars and
may rot the upper parts of the wooden case.
(f) How fast is car generally driven? The speed should average 15 M. P. H. or more to keep battery
charged.
(g) How long must engine be cranked before it starts? This should not require more than about 10
seconds. If customer is in doubt, start the engine to find out. If starting motor cranks engine at a fair
speed, engine should start within 10 seconds. If starting motor cranks engine at a low speed, a
longer cranking time may be required. The low cranking speed may be due to a run-down or
defective battery, to trouble in the starting motor or starting circuit, or to a stiff engine. To determine if
battery is at fault, see "Battery Tests," below.
(h) Has the car been used regularly, or has it been standing idle for any length of time? An idle
battery discharges itself and often becomes damaged. If car has been standing idle in cold weather,
the battery has probably been frozen.
(i) Has it been necessary to remove the battery occasionally for a bench charge?
(j) Has battery ever been repaired? See page 322.
Battery Tests
1. Remove the vent plugs and inspect electrolyte. If the electrolyte covers the plates and
separators to a sufficient depth, measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte. If the electrolyte is
below the tops of the plates and separators, see following section No. 2.
If all cells read 1.150 or less, remove the battery and give it a bench charge.

If the specific gravity readings of all cells are between 1.150 and 1.200, and if no serious
troubles have been found up to this point, advise the owner to use his lights and starting motor as
little as possible until the gravity rises to 1.280-1.300. If this is not satisfactory to him, remove the
battery and give it a bench charge.
If the specific gravity readings are all above 1.200, or if -the gravity reading of one cell is 50
points (such as the difference between 1.200 and 1.250, which is 50 "points") lower or higher than
the others (no matter what the actual gravity readings may be), make the 15 seconds high rate
discharge test on the battery. See page 266. If this test indicates that the internal condition of the
battery is bad, the battery should be removed from the car and opened for inspection. If the test
indicates that the internal condition of the battery is good, the specific gravity of the electrolyte needs
adjusting. The difference in specific gravity readings in the cells is due to one of the following,
causes:
(a) Water added to the cell or cells which have low gravity to replace electrolyte which had been
spilled or lost in some other manner.
(b) Electrolyte added to the cell or cells which have high gravity to replace the water which naturally
evaporates from the electrolyte.
(c) Trouble inside the cell or cells which have low gravity. The high rate discharge test will show
whether there is any internal trouble.
If any cell shows a gravity above 1.300, remove the battery, dump out all the electrolyte, fill battery
with distilled water and put the battery on charge.
If the gravity of one or more cells is 50 points less than the others, water has been used to
replace electrolyte which has been spilled or lost in some other manner, or else one or more jars are
cracked. A battery with one or more cracked jars usually has the bottom parts of its wooden case
rotted by the electrolyte which leaks from the jar. If you are not certain whether the battery has one
or more cracked jars, see that the electrolyte covers the plates in all the cells one-half inch or so,
and then let the battery stand. If the electrolyte sinks below tile tops of the plates in one or more cells
within twenty-four hours, those cells have leaky jars and the battery must be opened, and new jars
put in.
If the low gravity is not caused by leaky jars, give the battery a bench. charge and adjust the level of
the electrolyte.
2. If you found electrolyte to be below tops of plates in all the cells, the battery has been
neglected, or there mail be leaky jars. Add distilled water 'until the electrolyte covers the plates to a
depth of about one-half inch.
(a) If it requires only a small amount of water to bring up the level of the electrolyte, remove the
battery and give it a bench charge. See page 198. Only a brief charge may be necessary. Ask the
driver when water was added last. If more than (I month has passed since the last filling, the upper
parts of the plates may be sulphated, and the battery should be charged at a low rate.
(b) If it requires a considerable amount of water to bring up the level of the electrolyte, and the
bottom of the wooden battery case shows no signs of being rotted, the battery has been neglected
and has been dry for a long time, and the plates are mostly likely badly damaged. Open the battery
for inspection.

(c) If only one cell requires a considerable amount of water to bring up the level of its electrolyte,
and the bottom of the wooden battery ease shows no sign of being rotted, that cell is probably
"dead," due to in internal short-circuit. To test for "dead" cells, turn on the lamps and measure the
voltage of each cell. A dead cell will not give any voltage on test, may give a reversed voltage
reading, or at the most will give a very low voltage. A battery with a dead cell should be opened for
inspection.
(d) If the bottom part of the wooden battery case is rotted, and a considerable amount of water
had to be added to any or all cells to bring up the level of the electrolyte, the battery has leaky jars
and must be opened to have the leaky jars replaced by good ones.
If there is any doubt in your mind as to whether any or all jars are leaking, fill the cells with distilled
water and let the battery stand for twelve to twenty-four hours. If at or before the end of that time the
electrolyte has, fallen below the tops of the plates in any or all cells, these cells have leaky Jars and
the battery must be opened and the leaky jars replaced with good ones. The electrolyte which leaks
out will -wet the bench or on which the battery is placed and this is another indication of a leaky jar.
General Inspection
In addition to the tests which have been described, a general inspection as outlined below will often
be a great help in deciding what must. be done.
1. Is battery loose? A battery which is not held down firmly may have broken jars, cracked sealing
compound around posts or between posts and separators, and active material shaken out of the
grids. There may also be corrosion at the terminals.
2. Are cables loose? This will cause battery to be in a run down condition and cause failure to crank
engine.
3. Is there corrosion at the terminals? This will cause battery to be in a run-down condition and
cause failure to start engine. Corrosion is caused by electrolyte attacking terminals. A coating of
vaseline on the terminals prevents corrosion.
4. Is top of battery wet? This may be due to addition of too much water, overheating of battery,
cracks around posts and between posts and cover, electrolyte thrown out of vents because of
battery being loose, or electrolyte or water spilled on battery. Such a condition causes battery to run
down.
5. Is top of case acid soaked? This is caused by leaks around posts or between covers and jars,
flooding of electrolyte due to overheating or due to addition of too much water, or by electrolyte
spilled on covers.
6. Is lower part of case acid soaked? This is caused by leaky jars.
7. Are ends of case bulged out? This may be due to battery having been frozen.
This general inspection of the battery can be made in a few seconds, and often shows what the
condition of the battery is.
Operation Tests

Two simple tests may be made which will help considerably in the diagnosis.
Turn on the lights. If they burn dim, battery is run down (and may be defective) and battery needs
bench charge or repairs. If they burn bright battery is probably in a good condition.
With the lights burning, have the customer or a helper step on the starting switch. If the lights now
become very dim, the battery is run down (and may also be defective), or else the starting motor is
drawing too much current from the battery.
Trouble Charts
For the convenience of the repairman, the battery troubles which may be found when a car is
brought in, are summarized in the following tables:
All Cells Show Low Gravity or Low Voltage
A. Look for the following conditions:
1. Loose or dirty terminals or cell connectors. This may reduce charging rate, or open charging
circuit entirely. Remedy: Tighten and clean connections.
2. Corrosion on terminals or cell connectors caused by acid on top of battery due to over-filling,
flooding, defective sealing, lead scraped from lead-coated terminals, and copper wires attached
directly to battery. A badly corroded battery terminal may cause the generator, ignition coil, and
lamps to burn out because of the high resistance which the corroded terminal causes in the charging
line. It may reduce charging rate, or open charging circuit entirely. Remedy: Remove cause of
corrosion. Clean corroded parts and give coating of vaseline.
3. Broken terminals or cell connectors. These may reduce charging rate or open charging circuit
entirely. Remedy: Install new parts.
4. Generator not charging. Remedy: Find and remove cause of generator not charging (see page
284).
5. Charging rate too low. Remedy: If due to generator trouble, repair generator. If due to incorrect
generator setting change setting. If due to driving conditions increase charging rate
6. Acid or moisture on top of battery due to defective sealing, flooding, spilling electrolyte in taking
gravity readings, loose vent plugs. This causes corrosion and current leakage. Remedy: Find and
remove cause.
7. Tools or wires on battery causing short-circuits. Remedy: Tell customer to keep such things off the
battery.
8. Short-circuits or grounds in wiring. Remedy: Repair wiring.
9. Cutout relay closing late, resulting in battery not being charged at ordinary driving speeds.
Remedy: Check action of cutout. See page 282.
10. Excessive lighting current, due to too many or too large lamps. Remedy: Check by turning on all
lamps while engine is running. Ammeter should show three to five amperes charge with lamps
burning. In winter the charging rate may have to be increased.

B. Question Driver as to following causes of low gravity and low voltage:


1. Has water been added regularly?
2. Has impure water, such as faucet, well, or river water ever been added to battery?
3. Has too much water been added?
4. Has electrolyte been spilled and replaced by water?
5. Has battery been idle, or stored without regular charging?
6. Is car used more at night than in daytime? Considerable night driving may prevent battery from
being fully charged.
7. Is starter used frequently?
8. What is average driving speed? Should be over 15 M. P. 11.
9. How long is engine usually cranked before starting-? Cranking period should not exceed 10
seconds.
C. If battery has been repaired. The trouble may be due to:
1. Improperly treated separators used.
2. Grooved side of separators put against negatives instead of positives.
3. Separator left out.
4. Cracked separator.
5. Positives used -which should have been discarded.
6. Bulged, swollen negatives used.
7. Poor joints due to improper lead-burning.
D. Battery Troubles which may exist:
1. Sulfated plates.
2. Buckled Plates.
3. Internal Short-circuits.
4. Cracked Jars.
5. Clogged Separators.

Gravity Readings Unequal


1. Acid or moisture on top of battery, due to defective sealing, flooding, spilling electrolyte, loose vent
plugs. This causes current leakage. Remedy: Find and remove cause.
2. Tools or wires on battery, causing short-circuits. Remedy: Tell driver' to keep such things off the
battery.
3. Electrolyte or acid added to cells giving the high gravity readings.
4. Electrolyte spilled and replaced by water in cells giving low readings.
5. Grooved side of separators placed against negatives in cells giving the low readings.
6. Separator left out, cracked separator used, hole worn through separator by buckle([ plate or
swollen negatives, or separators in some cells and new ones in others.
7. Old plates used in some cells and new ones in others.
8. Impurities in cells showing low gravity.
9. Shorted cell, due to plates cutting through separators.
10. Cracked jar.
11. Oil some of the, older cars a three wire lighting system was used. If the lights are arranged so
that more are connected between one of the outside wires and the center, than between the other
outside wire and the center, the cells carrying the heavier lighting load will show low gravity.
12. On some of the older cars, the battery is made of two or more sections which are connected in
series for starting and in parallel for charging. Oil such cars the cells in one of the sections may show
lower gravity than other cells due to longer connecting cables, poor connections, corroded terminals,
and so on. Such a condition AN-ill often be found in the old two section Maxwell batteries used
previous to 1918.
High Gravity
This is a condition in which the hydrometer readings would indicate that a battery is almost or fullycharged, but the battery may fail to operate the starting motor. If the lights are burning while the
starting switch is closed, they -will become very dim. The gravity readings may be found to be above
1.300.
The probable causes of this condition are:
1. Electrolyte or concentrated acid added instead of water.
2. One of the numerous "dope" solutions which have been advertised extensively within the past two
years. Never use them. If customer admits having used such a "dope" warn him not to do so again.
Low Electrolyte

Probable Causes:
1. Water not added.
2. Electrolyte replaced in wrong cell after taking gravity readings.
3. Cracked jars.
4. Battery overcharged, causing loss of water by overheating and excessive gassing.
Probable Results:
1. Sulfated Plates.
2. Carbonized, dry, cracked separators.
3. Considerable shedding.
Battery Overheats
Probable Causes:
1. Water not added regularly.
2. Impure water used.
3. Impure acid -used.
4. Battery on hot place on car.
5. Alcohol or other anti-freeze preparation added.
6. Excessive charging rate.
7. Improperly treated separators.
8. Battery over-charged by long daylight runs.
Probable Results:
1. Sulfated Plates.
2. Burned, Carbonized Separators.
3. Buckled Plates.
4. Excessive Shedding.
Electrolyte Leaking Out at Top
Probable Causes:

1. Too much water added.


2. Battery loose in box.
3. Cracks in sealing compound due to poor sealing, or cables pulling on terminals, or due to poor
quality of sealing compound, or good quality compound which has been burned.
4. Vent plugs loose.
Probable Results:
1. Upper portion of case rotted by acid.
2. Electrolyte low.
3. Plates sulphated.
4. Upper parts of separators dry.
Summary
1. When May a Battery Be Left on the Car?
(a) When you find that the specific gravity of all cells is more than 1.150, the voltage of each cell is at
least 2, the voltage doe's not drop when the lights are turned on, or the lights do not become very
dim -when the engine is cranked with the starting motor, there are no loose terminals or connectors,
the sealing compound is not broken or cracked so as to cause a "slopper," the electrolyte covers the
plates, the box is not rotted by acid, and there are no broken jars.
These conditions will exist only if battery has been well taken care of, and some trouble has
suddenly and recently arisen, such as caused by a break in one of the battery cables, loosening of a
cable connection at the battery or in the line to the starting motor.
2. When Should a Battery Be Removed From Car?
(a) When you find broken sealing compound, causing the battery to be a "slopper."
(b) When you find inter-cell connectors and terminals loose, corroded, or poorly burned on.
(c) When you find box badly rotted by acid, or otherwise defective.
(d) When you find a cracked jar, indicated by lower part of case being acid soaked, or by low
electrolyte, or find that electrolyte level falls below the tops of the plates soon after adding water.
(e) When you find a dead cell, indicated by very low or no voltage, even on open circuit.
(f) When specific gravity of electrolyte is less than 1.150, or gravity readings of cells vary
considerably.

(g) When battery voltage drops to about 1.7 or less per cell when lamps are turned on, or lamps
become very dim when the starting motor is cranking the engine, or the high rate discharge test
shows that there is trouble in the cells.
(h) When you find that electrolyte is below tops of plates, and it requires considerable water to bring
it up to the correct height.
(i) When battery overheats on charge, or discharge, although battery is not located in hot place,
charging rate is not too high and lamps and accessories load is normal.
(j) When battery is more than a year old and action is not satisfactory.
(k) When a blacksmith, tinsmith or plumber has tried his hand at rebuilding the battery. Such a
battery is shown in Fig. 189.
(1) When ends of care are bulged out.
3. When Is It Unnecessary to Open a Battery?
(a) When the only trouble is broken sealing compound. The battery should be resealed.
(b) When loose, corroded, or poorly burned on terminals and connectors have merely resulted in
keeping battery only partly charged and no internal troubles exist. The remedy is to drill off the
connectors, or terminals, and re-burn them.
(c) When the external condition of battery is good, and a bench charge, see page 198 (with several
charge and discharge cycles if necessary) puts battery in a good condition, as indicated by voltage,
cadmium, and 20 minute high rate discharge test.
4. When Must a Battery Be Opened?
(a) When prolonged charging (72 hours or more) will not cause gravity or voltage to rise. Such
trouble is due to defective plates and separators.
(b) When battery case is badly acid soaked. A slightly acid soaked case need not be discarded, but if
the damage caused by the acid has been excessive, a new case is needed. Plates may also be
damaged.
(c) When one or more jars are cracked. New jars -are needed. The plates may also be damaged.
(d) When one or more cells are "dead," as indicated by little or no voltage, even on open circuit. New
plates (positives at least) may be required.
(e) When battery is more than a year old and action is unsatisfactory. (Battery will not hold its
charge.) Battery may have to be junked, or new separators may be required. Every battery should
be reinsulated at least once during its lifetime.
(f) When a blacksmith, tinsmith, or plumber have tried to repair a case, Fig. 189.

Fig. 189. A Blacksmith and Tinsmith Tried Their Hands on This Case, Lower
Part Enclosed in Tin, Strap Iron, Covered with Friction Tape, Around The Top.
(g) When the ends of case are bulged. A new case is needed. If the battery has been frozen it should
generally be junked. There are some cases on record of a frozen battery having been thawed out
and put in serviceable condition by a long charge at a low rate followed by several cycles of
discharge and recharge. Generally, at least, a new case, jars, and positives are required.
NOTE: New separators should always be installed, whenever a battery is opened for repairs, unless
the separators already in the battery are new, and the trouble for which the battery was opened
consists of a leaky jar, a separator left out, or some other trouble which does not require pulling the
plates out of mesh.

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Exide FIP0-IP135..(135Ah)
Price: Rs. 1207523 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 9299


Without old Battery:

Rs. 11299

Warranty: 24 Months

Battery Type: Flat Plate Battery

OFFER

Exide FIP0-IP150..(150Ah)
Price: Rs. 1336725 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 10099


Without old Battery:

Rs. 12399

Warranty: 24 Months

Battery Type: Flat Plate Battery

OFFER

Exide Inva Tubul..(110Ah)


Price: Rs. 1380021 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 11000


Without old Battery:

Rs. 12600

Warranty: 48 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

OFFER

Exide Exide Inva..(150Ah)


Price: Rs. 1410721 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 11200


Without old Battery:

Rs. 13500

Warranty: 36 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

OFFER

Exide Inva Maste..(150Ah)


Price: Rs. 1439927 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 10599


Without old Battery:

Rs. 12899

Warranty: 36 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

OFFER

Exide FIP0-IP180..(180Ah)
Price: Rs. 1607523 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 12399


Without old Battery:

Rs. 14899

Warranty: 24 Months

Battery Type: Flat Plate Battery

OFFER

Exide Inva Red 5..(150Ah)


Price: Rs. 1779936 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 11499


Without old Battery:

Rs. 13799

Warranty: 36 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

OFFER

Exide Inva Tubul..(150Ah)


Price: Rs. 2049931 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 14149


Without old Battery:

Rs. 16549

Warranty: 48 Months

Battery Type: Tall Tubular Battery

AMARON INVERTER BATTERIES

Sort By Price:

Price : Low to High

OFFER

Amaron AAM-CR-CRT..(150Ah)
Price: Rs. 1439125 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 10799


Without old Battery:

Rs. 13199

Warranty: 48 Months

Battery Type: Tall Tubular Battery

OFFER

Amaron AAM-CR-CRT..(165Ah)
Price: Rs. 1499124 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 11399


Without old Battery:

Rs. 13799

Warranty: 48 Months

Battery Type: Tall Tubular Battery

OKAYA INVERTER BATTERIES

Sort By Price:

Price : Low to High

SOLD
OUT

Okaya XL5000T..(135Ah)
Price: Rs. 1108030 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 7846


Without old Battery:

Rs. 9646

Warranty: 36 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

OFFER

Okaya XL6000T..(150Ah)
Price: Rs. 1175031 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 8185


Without old Battery:

Rs. 10185

Warranty: 36 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

OFFER

Okaya TT 5024..(150Ah)
Price: Rs. 1343026 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 10068


Without old Battery:

Rs. 12068

Warranty: 48 Months

Battery Type: Tall Tubular Battery

OFFER

Okaya TT 5030..(150Ah)

MTEKPOWER INVERTER BATTERIES

Sort By Price:

Price : Low to High

SOLD
OUT

MtekPower EB 1600..(135Ah)
Price: Rs. 1125030 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 7978


Without old Battery:

Rs. 9778

Warranty: 36 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

OFFER

MtekPower EB 1800..(150Ah)
Price: Rs. 1190031 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 8301


Without old Battery:

Rs. 10301

Warranty: 36 Months

DIGIPOWER INVERTER BATTERIES

Sort By Price:

Price : Low to High

SOLD
OUT

DigiPower DP 1450..(110Ah)
Price: Rs. 1035024 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 7900


Without old Battery:

Rs. 9400

Warranty: 42 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

SOLD
OUT

DigiPower DP 550..(140Ah)
Price: Rs. 1140030 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 8093


Without old Battery:

Rs. 9893

Warranty: 36 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

OFFER

DigiPower DP 650..(160Ah)
Price: Rs. 1210031 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 8460


Without old Battery:

Rs. 10460

Warranty: 36 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

SOLD
OUT

DigiPower DP 850..(160Ah)
Price: Rs. 1282026 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 9582


Without old Battery:

Rs. 11582

Warranty: 42 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

SOLD
OUT

DigiPower DT 860..(160Ah)
Price: Rs. 1378025 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 10355


Without old Battery:

Rs. 12355

Warranty: 48 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

SOLD
OUT

DigiPower DT 900..(160Ah)
Price: Rs. 1515025 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 11465


Without old Battery:

Rs. 13465

Warranty: 48 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery

SOLD
OUT

DigiPower DT 948..(160Ah)
Price: Rs. 1626024 % OFF

With old Battery (Same Ah): Rs. 12364


Without old Battery:

Rs. 14364

Warranty: 48 Months

Battery Type: Tubular Battery