Your First Orchid

If this is your first experience growing an orchid, don't be afraid of

them, most are no more difficult to grow than ordinary houseplants.
Orchids are unique, unusual, gorgeous, and very special. Since most
orchids are epiphytes, or air plants, their culture requirements are
different than other plants but once you get used to what they need
we expect you will be delighted growing them.
Here are a few basic pointers for those just learning about orchids and
their care.
1. Learn what kind of orchid you have so you can understand its
needs. With over 800 genera, more than 25,000 species, and
hundreds of thousands of registered hybrids, the orchid family
is among the most diverse of the plant families. Don't let that
be intimidating, there are only a dozen or so types of orchids
that are generally seen for sale, a few more types if you go to
an orchid show or nursery. Over half of the orchid plants that
are produced are Phalaenopsis. Other genera such as
Cattleya, Dendrobium, Cymbidium, Oncidium and
Paphiopedilum are showing up in many places, including
groceries and hardware stores. If your orchid doesn't have a
label, you can try to identify it from pictures on our Orchid
Identification page and from there learn its culture and
repotting needs.
2. Watering an orchid is different than it is for other plants. The
easiest way to water an orchid is to take it to the kitchen sink
once per week and flood it with water. The water will run right
through the pot as orchids are potted in free-draining mixes.
Walk away for a couple of minutes, come back and flood it
again. A few minutes later put it back. Resist the temptation to
water it too frequently, orchids hate that. Generally speaking,
once every 7 - 10 days should be fine. If an orchid is in a
planter with no drainage hole it will need to be moved to one
as soon as possible.
3. Fertilize "weakly, weekly". In nature most orchids cling to trees
and get very little in the way of food. They are happiest with a
consistent supply of weak fertilizer. In general orchids prefer a
balanced complete fertilizer. Our Fertilizing FAQ offers help
with specifics.
4. Repot orchids when they go out of bloom in fresh orchid mix.
This gives them the best chance at a successful growth phase
and the flowering phase that follows. Orchids will smother if
they remain in the same media too long, they are air plants
and need oxygen at their roots. The freshness and quality of
the orchid mix is an essential component to successful growth
and flowering. Usually repotting every 2 years is adequate
though many will benefit from annual repotting.
**Richards says a good orchid, raised in the right conditions (room
temperature, not less than 16.5C) should last eight weeks with

flowers, after which the blooms will slowly start dropping off (perfectly
naturally) from the bottom up. It will eventually re-flower.
**Like most pretty things, they are a little high-maintenance and a bit
picky: they like light, but only north-facing; they hate draughts; and
they only like soft water. Never, ever cut the aerial roots off (the
slightly greying roots curling around the top - apparently some people
don't like the look of them), and never, ever remove them from the
original plastic pots they've been rooted in.
**If you live in a hard water area, use cooled boiled water from the
kettle," says Richards. "Either water them once a week with an
eggcup-sized amount of soft water, or stand your orchid in a bucket
and drench completely with soft water to replicate a tropical rain
shower - let it soak for a minute in enough water to cover the
compost. But don't let any water sit in the area where the leaves
cross over [if it does, dab away with tissue]."
**While the flowers are in bloom, keep the stems pinned to the sticks
they are supplied with for support.
Every node (the little triangular etch) on the stem is a potential new
bloom. Once all the flowers fall off, trim the stem all the way down,
just above the very lowest node, and cut diagonally. "This will help to
stimulate new growth, hopefully a new flower stem," says Richards.
It's ideal to put cut-down orchids in a conservatory or greenhouse to
encourage reflowering; failing that, a north-facing windowsill will do.
Keep watering weekly, and you should see a new stem coming
through. And that, says Richards, is that.
***
Orchid Growing Tips
Most orchids require moist, well-draining conditions. There are several
types of growing media that can be used with orchid plantsredwood
or fir bark, sphagnum peat moss, rocks, cork, charcoal, sand,
potting soil, etc. A basic mix for growing orchids consists of
coarse perlite, fir bark, and sphagnum moss. You can also add
charcoal but this is optional. Generally, the grade of bark is
dependent on the type of orchid grown. For instance, phalaenopsis
orchids are usually grown in coarse bark, cattleyas in medium bark,
and young orchid plants are best grown in fine bark.
Orchids require shallow planting. Place orchids in an east to southfacing window or room. These plants prefer bright, indirect light.
Insufficient light results in poor flowering. However, too much light
can lead to leaf scorch.
Temperature is also important for indoor orchid care. While orchids
tolerate cooler or warmer temperatures throughout their normal
growing season, they need to be about 15 degrees cooler at night
than during the day in order to bloom sufficiently.

Indoor Orchid Care Tips

Orchids need ample water but should be allowed to dry out some
between waterings. One way to check for watering is by poking your
finger about an inch into the growing media. If its dry, give it some
water; otherwise, let it be.
Indoor orchid plants also need adequate humidity, about fifty to
seventy percent. There are various ways to increase the humidity in
your home. Place a water-filled saucer or tray of pebbles beneath
plants, mist plants daily, or use a humidifier.

By Becca Badgett
(Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden)
Growing phalaenopsis orchids was once an elite and costly hobby for
those dedicated to phalaenopsis orchid care. Nowadays, advances in
production, largely due to cloning with tissue culture, makes it
affordable for the average gardener to learn how to care for a
phalaenopsis orchid. Impress your friends by growing these showy,
long lasting blossoms.
What are Phalaenopsis Orchids?

Fertilize orchids weekly or bi-weekly while they are producing new

growth and decrease to monthly or bi-monthly intervals once they
mature. Discontinue altogether once the plants go dormant.
Additional orchid care tips include repotting, which is normally done
every other year. If your orchids suddenly stop blooming but have
suitable light, temperature, and humidity, then repotting may be
necessary.

Commonly known as moth orchid, info about phalaenopsis says

theyre epiphytes, growing attached to tree branches in their native,
tropical conditions. The broad-leafed plant produces long lasting
blooms that are flat and showy, borne on arching stems. It should be
noted when answering what are phalaenopsis orchids, that blooms
may last two to three months. Theyre one of the easiest orchids to
grow.

Also keep an eye out for signs of pests or disease. Orchids are
occasionally affected by mealybugs, scale, and aphids. These can
usually be washed off or treated with insecticidal soap.

Moth orchid size is measured by the span of the leaves. The wider the
leaf span, the more blooms you can expect from this orchid.
Numerous hybrids and cultivars bloom at different times of the year.

Phalaenopsis Orchid Care: Tips For Growing Phalaenopsis Orchids

Advertisement
Moth Orchid Info and Care
Moth orchid info indicates this plant is best grown in diffused or low
light situations, and in standard household temperatures to provide
the right phalaenopsis orchid care. Temperatures around 65 to 75 F.
(18-24 C.) during the day and 10 degrees lower at night are
appropriate for this plant. Broad spectrum fluorescent lights can b e
used for successfully growing phalaenopsis orchids.
Learning how to care for a phalaenopsis orchid starts with potting
your new plant in the right medium. Never plant growing
phalaenopsis orchids in regular potting soil, as roots will suffocate and
rot away. Grow them in a coarse textured mixture, such as a
commercial mix for epiphytic orchids. You can make your own
soilless mix for growing phalaenopsis orchids from coarse fir bark,
hardwood charcoal, perlite and coarse peat moss.

Image by Ryan Somma

Potting mixture for growing phalaenopsis orchids should remain moist,

drying slightly between waterings, but never drying out completely.
Some moth orchid info recommends watering with three ice cubes per
week to avoid overwatering. As the mix ages, nutrient-holding and
drainage capabilities decrease. Repot your orchid every two to three
years.

spike that may be 1218 inches (30.545.7 cm) in

length.
There may be more than one spike on a large plant and
it may have anywhere from 3-20 flowers. If you aren't
sure you have a phal, check the internet for images.

High humidity is necessary for the optimum performance of growing

phalaenopsis orchids. Moth orchid info advises humidity between 50
and 80 percent. Accomplish this with a room humidifier, pebble tray
beneath the plant and misting.
Fertilize the moth orchid when new growth is forming. Use a fertilizer
formulated for orchids or a balanced houseplant food with the ratio
20-20-20 on the label.
How to Care for Phalenopsis Orchids (Moth Orchids)
The most common orchid acquired by people is the Phalaenopsis
orchid. Unfortunately, these are often discarded after the flowers fall
off. With proper care, your orchid can flower multiple times a year!

2
Do not over water your phal! This is the number one cause
of death and you may not even know you are doing it until one
day the plant is dead.
o

o
1.

2. Identify that you have a Phalaenopsis orchid (Phals for

short). Different types of orchids have very different care.
o
o

Phals usually have 3-6 very broad, somewhat floppy

leaves that alternate. The flower spike comes from
between these leaves.
The flowers on phals can be any color, including white,
pink, yellow, striped or splotched. Flowers are usually
24 inches (5.110.2 cm) in diameter and bloom on a

o
o

Phals are epiphytic plants, meaning in the wild they

attach themselves by their roots to a tree or rock and
get their nutrients from detritus that accumulate
around their roots.
This means that their roots aren't sitting in wet soil
under natural conditions. Frequently, orchids from big
box stores are either over watered or under watered.
Over watered plants get root rot and eventually die b/c
they can't absorb water.
Under watered plants have hard, brittle roots. Healthy
roots should be thick, a silvery green with bright green
tips.
It's a good idea to check the roots on a new phal when
you bring it home. If all the roots are brown and
squishy, trim them off and repot the plant.
Keep it on the dry side until you see new roots forming.
When you do water(typically once a week works well in
most homes, but you should put your finger into the
substrate to feel it before watering, if wet, hold off),
allow water to run until it comes out of the holes in the
pot.
Do not get water on or in between the leaves, as this
can cause rot, which can kill the plant.

Generally, under watering is a lot less likely to kill a

phal than over watering.

Pot your orchid correctly. Proper potting of the orchid will

help keep you from over watering!
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o

During this time, you may want to keep the orchid in a

more humid area, like a bathroom (as long as it gets
some light).
Phals can be potted in a variety of substances, but the
most important is that the potting substrate allows the
roots to get some air and drys relatively quickly.
This means never, ever use potting soil for houseplants
on phals. One of the easiest thing to use is a bark mix
for orchids.
To re-pot your plant, get a plastic or clay pot (plastic
holds water better and you water less with one than
clay-if you have tendency to over water, go with clay).
Go with a pot size that fits the roots the best, not the
leaves. Smaller is always better, as it dries faster.
Position your flower in the middle of the pot and fill in
the pot with the bark mix. As you fill, you should bang
the pot against the floor to help settle the bark.
It helps to soak the bark beforehand in water. Pots
should always have holes in the bottom to allow good
drainage.
You can put a plastic pot with holes into a more
decorative container if you want to and then just take it
out when you water it.
Orchids don't like to have wet feet! Not all roots may fit
in the pot and that is normal
(Phals have aerial roots, you can mist them with
a spray bottle when you water the plant).

Do not put them in direct sunlight. Phals are a lower light

orchid. They do not like to be in direct sun and this can burn
their leaves easily.

Diffused light or early morning light in an east

window works well.
Overhead lights in your house are probably not
enough though, so you should keep it near a
window where it gets some natural, diffused
light.
Not enough light will keep the plant from reflowering. If it's been 6 months since you've
seen signs of a flower spike, try putting the plant
in a little more light.

Once a month diluted in water works well.

You should use about half the recommended
amount on the label and avoid food that use
urea for the nitrogen, as it can burn the root tips.
A 10/10/10 or 20/20/20 formula works well.
There are several formulas especially for
orchids, but they are all pretty much the same.

If your first flower doesn't make it, try again! Starting

with a healthy plant is easier than trying to revive one that
wasn't cared for properly in the store. Look for a plant with big
thick roots and nice shiny leaves that don't droop too much.

5
Keep your plant warm. Phals do not like to get too cold.
Temps at night shouldn't get below about 62 degrees. Daytime
temps in the mid 70's to 80's are good.

<

6
Don't forget to feed them. Phals need plant food at some
point.

Leaf reading
You can tell a lot about the health of your phals by just looking at the
leaves.
The leaves should be firm and not drooping, shiny and not
wrinkled. Drooping and wrinkled leaves means they are not
getting enough water. When they do get too much, they turn
yellow and roots will start to rot.

Ideally the leaves should have a light green color, but a bit
darker for darker colored flowers. A too dark green leaves
means that they are not getting enough sunlight but a very
light green leaves means too much. They can also have
yellowish to red spot which means sun burn!
Splitting of the leaves sometimes occur, it might look ugly but
no need to worry, however this usually happens when the
plant was deprived of water at some time and was suddenly
given a lot.
Going deeper.
Check the roots from time to time. Silvery looking roots could mean
its time to water. But it also means they are in a healthy state, when
wet they should be green. Brown and soggy roots are rotting roots.
emerging new root
You should trim these away. When a lot of roots start to come out from
the pot, then it says `repot me.

emerging new leaf

Tips for new phalaenopsis owners:
Water your phals in the morning. Avoid getting water in the
crown or if you did, remove it by using cotton or cotton buds.
Watering frequency varies, it is best to ask your phals directly.
Stick a finger 3-4 cm inside a pot, if its dry then water. If it is
still moist to your touch, the do not water yet.
The best way to water your Phals is to let the water run
through the roots and drain excess water. If you are using a
pebble tray, then no need to bring them to the sink. Just water
normally making sure that all roots gets wet and just let the
excess water go to the pebble tray.

Try to move your plants around the house for different

seasons. Place them on windowsills during winter to get
enough sunlight but not on summer if your windowsill is
directly facing the sun.
Orchids like it humid and temperature is also important. A
humidity of 50% 70% is ideal and a temperature of 70-80F
(21-26C) during daytime and 60-65F (15-18C) at night
will make your phals bloom longer. They can be exposed to a
temperature as high as 95F (35C) or as low as 30F (0C) but
only for short periods.
For me to achieve ideal humidity level. I followed the tip of
using pebble trays. Just use a saucer, fill it with pebbles, fill it
with water and place the pot on top making sure that the base
of the pot does not sit on water.

beginner. Lets leave that to the experts.

Humidity Trays for my Phals

Ventilation is also a factor to consider, give them a breather

from time to time like opening a window for some minutes or
so.
If you are a newbie I suggest using a transparent plastic pot
(they usually sell them in these anyway) to easily observe the
health of the roots and the plastic pot keeps the moisture
much longer, so lesser watering. Also, when buying Phals
choose a healthy one following the clues I mentioned above.
You do not want to start with a difficult challenge for a

HOW TO: CARE FOR YOUR SUCCULENTS

28th February 2013
Although people often say that you dont have to do anything to keep
succulents alive and theyre perfect for people with a less than green
thumb, Ive learnt through trial and error that thats not quite
true. Over the last couple of years Ive had dozens of succulent and
cactus plants in our apartment (remember these cute little guys?)
but have never been able to make them flourish. I recently decided to
invest in a fresh batch and while I was at it I quizzed the nursery
owner (a loud talking Mr Ho) and found out that complete neglect of
your cacti and succulents is just as likely to kill them as too much
love. I thought I would share a few of the tidbits I learnt but bear with
me Mr Ho doesnt speak a stitch of English so I had a friend
translate.

Soil Succulents are usually found in gritty or sandy soils, and

you should make sure this is what you use in the event that you
replant them.
Pot As with all plants, make sure the pot you use for your
plant has a drainage hole in the bottom. This is where I think I went
wrong in the past planting cacti in tea cups unfortunately doesnt
allow for the right drainage (= dead succulent). If you can, plant your
succulent in a terracotta pot, as apparently this improves drainage.
Re-potting Although an annoying process to go through, if
youre a nice and caring succulent owner there will be a point at
which you have to re-pot. My succulent guy says to do this every year
or when the plant starts to look uncomfortable in the pot. Fingers
crossed you get to that point!
Pay attention Mr Ho said that although his tips apply
generally to most succulents and cacti, they are all different and the
only way to make sure you are doing the right thing is to pay
attention to how they are growing apparently yellowing can mean
too much sunlight (or overwatering) whilst leaning towards the light
source can mean not enough.
Thats all I managed to wrangle out of Mr Ho, feel free to let me know
if you have any other tips I definitely need them! I was lucky enough
to get to shoot a few pics of the plants I had to choose from at the
markets it was a tough decision believe me.

Pin It

Light Although you would think that because succulents

and cacti mainly originate in the desert they would be down with full
high-beaming sun, I was told that for many species full midday sun
can actually burn your plant. For many species brightly lit areas with
lots of sunlight are perfect but not somewhere with full midday sun.
Water This is the bit I was most surprised about. During the
warmer part of the year most succulents and cacti go through a
growing phase where they are most active and need water and
nutrients. When it cools down during the year they go into a dormant
phase and need much less water (this is the point where you can
neglect your plants a little). During the warmer months in their
growing phase succulents should be watered once a week but rather
than pour a cup of water now and then into the pot , wait until the dirt
is completely dry and then soak the plant in water for a few minutes.

How to Transplant Orchids

sterilized with alcohol before using, to prevent the spread of harmful

bacteria.

By Joan Norton
Remove Orchid From Pot

Design Pics/Allan
Seiden/Design Pics/Getty Images
It is time to transplant your orchid when the roots are growing over
the side of the pot or the lower leaves have died and weakened the
center stem. The plant has either become too big for the container or
the potting medium has broken down and no longer supports the
plant. Always wait for an orchid to finish blooming before
transplanting.
Other People Are Reading

How to Care for Orchid Houseplants

Grasp the orchid plant by the main stem and gently remove it
from the overturned pot. A very root-bound plant will be difficult to
shake loose, and sometimes the pot needs to be broken. Remove all
of the old potting medium by shaking the plant and picking the
medium out from between the roots. Do not reuse any of this material
in the transplant process. Gently wash off the orchid roots with water
to remove fine particles. Pull off dead or weak lower leaves and pull
off plant tissue at the leaf juncture. Prune all shriveled roots carefully
with hand-held pruners, being careful not to cut healthy growth. Dead
tissue is hollow when squeezed or wiry looking.
New Pot
Choose a plastic or clay pot that will accommodate the entire
root system comfortably. Cover the bottom of the pot with a thin layer
of potting mix. Place the plant in the pot with the lower leaves slightly
above the rim. Place and push potting material in the spaces between
the roots, pressing gently as you go. Ensure the bottom leaves remain
slightly above the pot rim. Tap the pot gently to settle the materials
and add more if needed to fill the space. Experienced orchid
gardeners add a label to each plant indicating its name and bloom
time.
Water and Ongoing Care

An orchid needs to be soaked thoroughly after it has been

transplanted to a new pot. Always use tepid water and soak long
enough so all the planting material is wet. Allow the pot to drain
completely and empty the drip pan so the roots do not continue to
Gather together new potting medium, hand-held pruners and a
absorb water through the drainage hole. Orchids are watered once a
pot one size bigger than its present container. The potting medium
week after the transplant. Fertilize monthly with 1/2-strength
must be fast-draining and also water-retentive. Commercial orchid
commercial orchid fertilizer during summer and fall. Do not fertilize
potting medium contains volcanic rock, coconut fiber, tree bark,
during the spring flowering cycle.
charcoal or a combination of these. Aliflor is an expanding clay
medium that is often used in orchid mixes. Bark-based potting
medium drains well but breaks down easily. Peat-based material
retains moisture well but must be replaced yearly. Choose either clay Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4507024_transplantor plastic pots for your orchid. Ensure the hand-held pruners are
orchids.html
How to Care for Potted Orchids Indoors
Transplanting Materials

10

How to Trigger Reblooming of Your Phalaenopsis Orchid

When your Just Add Ice Orchid stops blooming and enters dormancy,
it is not dead. You can encourage your orchid to bloom again with
just a little TLC. Phalaenopsis orchids rebloom on old spikes with a
new stalk emerging from a triangular node along the stalk. To trigger
the growth of a new stalk and reblooming, your Just Add Ice Orchid
will need a little more attention than these easy-care orchids usually
require. The thrill when your Just Add Ice Orchid blooms for a
second time, however, makes the small investment in time
and effort required to trigger orchid reblooming well worth the
effort.

Phalaenopsis orchids expend a lot of

energy to create the large, beautiful flowers for which they are prized.
Under normal circumstances, your Just Add Ice Orchid will enter a
resting period called dormancy once it has finished blooming.
Dormancy allows the plant time to rest and replace the
nutrients expended during blooming. Nutrients and water are
stored in the plants leaves until they are needed for growth and
blooming. Dormancy typically lasts from 6 to 9 months and
your orchid may rebloom on its own as orchids do in nature.
However, most display orchids need a little help activating the natural
rhythm that leads to blooming.
To trigger orchid reblooming, follow these steps:
1. When your orchid stops blooming, begin fertilizing it every
other week with a balanced houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20)
mixed at half strength. Do not water your Just Add Ice Orchid
with 3 ice cubes on the weeks you fertilize your plant.

2. Move your orchid to a cooler environment where nighttime

temperatures are between 55 and 65 degree F. until a new
flower spike emerges.
3. Return your plant to its usual location and continue watering
with 3 ice cubes once a week.
How to Care for Orchids: Ice Cube Watering Specifics
Posted by Just Add Ice Orchids
We aim to make watering your beautiful Phalaenopsis orchid plant
simple by helping you remember to Just Add Ice once a week. And we
even recommend how much -- 3 ice cubes per week. But as with
just about anything, it sounds simple until you get down to actually
doing it, and then the questions come up. But once you get the hang
of it, youll realize how easy it is.

One thing you may find

yourself wondering is what size should the ice cubes be? since there
seems to be no standard size or shape anymore. It should melt down
to about a cup of water. As long as thats the case, the size of the
cube is only an issue if its crushed ice. The point of using ice cubes is
that they melt slowly releasing the water in a slow drip. So you dont
want to use anything that will melt quickly.
Some people have very responsibly done research before watering
their plant and are confused by recommendations theyve found
elsewhere that say to use only water at room temperature. Here at
Just Add Ice Orchids, we love orchids and have tested our theory
before offering it to others. Weve found that those who follow our
recommendation meet with orchid success!
Another place where there has been some confusion is if three ice
cubes are enough if there is more than one plant in a pot. If you see

11

multiple stems coming from the same plant, three ice cubes is
enough. But if you have more than one plant in a pot, youll want to
give each plant its very own serving of three cubes each.

You can remove the entire flower spike so that the orchid plant can
put more energy back into the leaves and roots, helping it to grow
stronger and produce a fresh new flower spike.

Orchid Care Blog

You might also want to promote orchid reblooming by moving it to

an area where the night time temperatures are slightly lower than
their current environment - ideally between 55 to 65 degrees F, but
with the same amount of in-direct sunlight exposure as before.

After Orchid Flowers Fall

So you've been given an orchid plant and have enjoyed its longlasting bloom, but now the last orchid flower has faded and you're
wondering what to do with the rest of the plant. Right? Fortunately,
they will bloom again. In the meantime, you have a few options:
You can let it be, while making sure to fertilize monthly or as often as
every other week with a houseplant fertilizer or balanced fertilizer
(example: 20-20-20) at half the recommended rate. During this
time,the plant may produce new buds at the end of the old flower
spike. (If the orchid flower spike has turned yellow or brown, the entire
spike should be removed.)

You'll know an orchid flower spike has formed when what looks like a
root starts to grow upwards and the tip takes on the appearance of a
mitten, as opposed to a root tip that is rounded. Once the orchid
flower spike is identified, the orchid can be returned to its normal
setting.
As the flower spike grows, support it with a stake along the way. To
produce a beautiful display of orchid flowers try to avoid changing the
plant's orientation to the light when it is producing its flowers.
Otherwise, the flowers may be twisted on the stem and you may
jeopardize a nice arching floral display.

You can cut the bare flower spike back to a "node", a triangular
shaped area on the stem, which may encourage the orchid to
generate new side flower spikes.

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