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12 wide
10 tall
4 deep
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
Market Tote
15 wide
13 tall
5 deep
evelyn
TOTE
swoon
Materials Needed:
1 yard 44 wide quilting weight exterior fabric (1/2 yard for Handbag size)
1 1/2 yards 44 wide quilting weight lining fabric (1 yard for Handbag size)
1/2 yard foam interfacing (Soft & Stable, or 1 1/2 yards Pellon Flex-Foam)
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
You can use Pellon Thermolam and Shape-flex SF101 in place of foam interfacing
3 yards fusible woven interfacing (2 yards for Handbag size) (Pellon Shapeflex SF101)
1/4 yard fusible stiff stabilizer (Pellon Peltex 71F)
16 (or longer) handbag zipper (14 for Handbag size)
9" all purpose zipper (7" for Handbag size)
Four 1 1/2 rectangle rings (1 for Handbag size)
Coordinating thread
Erasable marking pen
Fabric glue, optional (Beacon Fabri-tac)
Where to stitch
Exterior
Lining
Wrong Side
1) PREPPING
Print the pattern pieces for the size you want to make; pages 16-24 for the Tote size or pages
25-30 for the smaller Handbag size. Cut out all of the pattern pieces along the solid black lines.
For the Main Panel, Bottom Lining and Side Panel, match the letters (butting the lines) and tape
together. Trace and cut out all fabric pieces from Exterior and Lining fabric (on the wrong side),
as noted on each pattern piece. Be sure to cut on the fold where marked. Repeat to cut the
foam interfacing, woven interfacing and stabilizer.
Additionally, measure and cut the following:
For Tote Size:
Handles 6 x 25 Cut 2 Lining, Cut 2 Woven Interfacing
Handle Stripes 3 x 24 Cut 2 Lining
Bottom Support 11.5 x 5.75 Cut 1 Stabilizer
Zippered Pocket 11 x 16 Cut 1 Lining
Zipper Tab 3 x 4 Cut 1 Lining
For Handbag Size:
Handles 4 x 20 Cut 2 Lining, Cut 2 Woven Interfacing
Handle Stripes 2 x 18 Cut 2 Lining
Bottom Support 8.5 x 4.5 Cut 1 Stabilizer
Zippered Pocket 9 x 12 Cut 1 Lining
Zipper Tab 3 x 4 Cut 1 Lining
Please note that instructions, measurements and diagrams are for the Tote sized bag.
If making the Handbag size, the measurements are in parenthesis.
Bottom Panel
Stabilizer
Center a stabilizer Connector widthwise on the wrong side of a lining Connector and so that the
point of the stabilizer is 1/2 from the point of the fabric Connector, and 1/2 from both side edges.
Fuse into place and repeat with 3 remaining stabilizer Connectors and 3 of the lining Connectors.
Connector
Connector
Connector
Connector
Stabilizer
Stabilizer
Stabilizer
Stabilizer
Fuse woven interfacing to the wrong side of the four remaining lining Connectors without stabilizer.
Fuse woven interfacing to everything else except for the Exterior pieces, Handle Stripes, Side
Panel Overlays, Main Panel Overlays, Zipper Tab and two of the Top Zipper Panels.
Pin a foam interfacing Main Panel to the wrong side of an exterior Main Panel, matching all raw
edges. With the exterior side down, machine baste around the entire panel at 1/4 seam
allowance. Repeat to baste foam interfacing to the remaining exterior Main Panel, two exterior
Side Panels, and the Bottom Panel with stabilizer (the foam interfacing will go over top of the
stabilizer).
Tip: You can instead use Pellon Wonder-Under (Vliesofix in EU) to make the foam interfacing
fusible instead of machine basting.
2) HANDLE STRIPES
Fold a Handle Stripe in half, wrong sides together and matching the
long edges, and press to make a center crease. Open and fold each
long edge to the center crease and press again. The long raw edges
should be butting together in the center.
Flip it right side up and make sure its an even 1.5 wide (1 wide for Handbag size). Fold it in half
matching the short raw ends and cut it at the fold to make two Handle Stripes that are 1.5 wide
and 12 long (1 wide and 9 long for Handbag size). Repeat with the remaining Handle Stripe
panel. You should end up with a total of four Handle Stripes.
Fold an exterior Main Panel in half, right sides together and matching all raw edges, and press to
make a center crease (or you can mark it with an eraseable marking pen). Measure 2.5 to the left
(2 for Handbag size) of the center crease and mark a vertical line. Measure 2.5 to the right (2
for Handbag size) of the center crease and mark a vertical line, parallel to the center. Double
check your markings using the placement lines on the paper pattern piece.
Center crease
2.5
2.5
Pin (or glue baste) one Handle Stripe to the LEFT of the left line, just barely covering the line itself.
Top stitch down each long folded edge of the Handle Stripe. Repeat to pin then sew another
Handle Stripe to the RIGHT of the right line. Both Stripes should be 2.5 from the center of the
Main Panel (2 for Handbag size), and 5 apart (4 for Handbag size).
Repeat to sew the two remaining Handle Stripes to the remaining exterior Main Panel.
3) OVERLAYS
Pin two Main Panel Overlays right sides together and matching all raw edges. Sew along the
curved edge only at 1/2 seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance to about 1/4 and flip right sides out. Roll the seam in between your
fingers to get it nice and flat and press well. Repeat with the remaining two Main Panel Overlay
pieces.
Pin a Main Panel Overlay to an exterior Main Panel, matching the top and side raw edges, with
the curved edge of the Overlay facing downward. Top stitch along the curved edge of the Main
Panel Overlay, about 1/8 from the edge. Machine baste around the sides and top edges of the
Overlay at 1/4 seam allowance to fully sew the Overlay to the Main Panel.
Repeat the last paragraph to sew the remaining Main Panel Overlay to
the remaining exterior Main Panel.
Repeat Step 3 to sew the Side Panel Overlays together along the
longest straight edge only.
Then trim the seam allowance, flip right side out, press, and top stitch to
the top ends of the two exterior Side Panels.
4) CONNECTORS
Pin a Connector with stabilizer to a Connector without
stabilizer, right sides together and matching all raw edges. Starting
at the short straight end and with the stabilizer side up, sew with a
shorter stitch length down the length of the Connector at a 1/2
seam allowance, right next to but not through the stabilizer. Sew
until you reach the point at the other end of the Connector. With the
needle down, raise the presser foot and pivot. Continue sewing just
until the curve of the stabilizer turns into a straight edge and stop.
Backstitch and stitch again.
Trim the seam allowance only where you stitched down to about 1/8. Turn right side out, using
something pointy (but not sharp) to carefully poke out the point. Fold the open long raw edge in
1/2 (leave the short top end open) and press the entire Connector well. Repeat with the remaining
six Connectors to end up with four finished Connectors.
Fold the raw end of a Connector under 1 and press. Slide a rectangle ring onto the Connector
and into the fold. With the ring in the fold, sew across the Connector as close to the rectangle ring
as you can. Pivot and continue sewing with a long top stitch length down the long edge of the
Connector. Stop at the bottom point of the Connector and pivot with the needle down. Continue
sewing up the other long edge until you reach the stitching at the rectangle ring, then backstitch.
Repeat the last paragraph to sew rings onto the remaining three Connectors and top stitch.
Pin (or glue baste) a Connector (fold side down) so that the top of the Connector at the fold (with
rectangle ring inside it) is 2 from the top raw edge of an exterior Main Panel (1.75 for Handbag
size), and centered over a Handle Stripe. Mark a line going horizontally across the Connector that
is 1 down (1 for Handbag size as well) from the top horizontal line of stitching on the
Connector.
2
1
With the zipper fully closed, clip into the zipper tape halfway on both sides of the zipper, at the
very same place, 1.5 from the end of the zipper with the zipper pull.
1.5
Unzip the zipper about 3 and pin (or glue baste very lightly just along the very edge) the long
handbag zipper face down onto the right side of an interfaced Top Zipper Panel, matching a
long edge of the zipper with a long raw edge of the Top Zipper Panel and matching the clipped
part of the zipper to about 1/2 from a folded end of the Top Zipper Panel. At the clip, turn that
half of the zipper so it turns 90 degrees away from the Top Zipper Panel (it should turn to be
parallel with the short folded edge of the Top Zipper Panel). Pin the zipper well so that it turns as
sharply as you can get it. Tip: If you have trouble sewing the zipper in place, try basting it at a 90
degree angle first, before sewing it to the Top Zipper Panel.
Zipper Face Down
Flip over so the Top Zipper Panel is wrong side up and sew along the pinned long edge of the
Top Zipper Panel at 1/4 seam allowance, sewing right over the zipper where it turns 90 degrees.
You may want to switch to your zipper foot for this. When you get to the Zipper Pull, stop with
your needle down, lift the presser foot, and slide the Zipper Pull out of the way.
Pin a Top Zipper Panel without interfacing to the Top Zipper Panel already sewn to the zipper,
right sides together and matching all (raw and folded) edges. The zipper will be sandwiched
between the two Top Zipper Panels.
Flip over so that the first Top Zipper Panel (with interfacing) is on top and you can see the line
of stitching you added when sewing the zipper to the panel. Sew right over that same line at 1/4
seam allowance.
Trim the end of the zipper that you sewed over to match the seam allowance. Press both Top
Zipper Panels away from the zipper so that they are wrong sides together and matching all edges.
Pin the two panels together matching the 3 raw edges. Starting at the long raw edge, top stitch
along one 2 side edge about 1/8 from the edge, then pivot and turn to sew along the seam at
the zipper, and again to sew along the other 2 side edge. Machine baste along the long open raw
edge at 1/4 seam allowance to fully close the two Top Zipper Panels.
Raw edge
Repeat the steps on Page 8 and 9 until this point to sew the two remaining Top Zipper Panels
to the other long edge of the zipper, then flip, press, pin and top stitch the same as the first two.
Press each short edge of the Zipper Tab under 1/2. Press the Zipper
Tab in half, wrong sides together and matching the raw unfolded
edges together, and press to make a center crease. Open and fold
each long raw edge to the center crease and press again.
Center
Now fold in half one more time, matching the two short folded edges together and press.
The tab should end up 1.5 x 1.5 with all raw edges hidden.
Trim the end of your zipper so that about 2 is hanging off the end of the Top Zipper Panels. Open
the Zipper Tab slightly so that you can slide the end of the zipper inside the folds that meet in the
center (in the bottom half of the Zipper Tab). I apply a small amount fabric glue onto the end of the
zipper to hold the Zipper Tab in place, but you can also pin in place.
Top stitch along each of the four edges of the Zipper Tab to secure it to the end of the zipper,
sewing about 1/8 from each edge.
Press the seam allowance towards the Bottom Panel and top stitch right along, and about 1/8
from, the seam through the Bottom Panel and seam allowance.
10
Repeat the last two paragraphs to sew the remaining exterior Side Panel to the other short edge
of the same Bottom Panel. Press the seam allowance towards the Bottom Panel and top stitch
again.
Repeat this entire step to assemble the lining Gusset, sewing the two lining Side Panels to the
remaining Bottom Panel without stabilizer.
7) ZIPPERED POCKET
Fold a Bottom Lining in half wrong sides
together, matching all raw edges and press to
make a vertical center crease. On the wrong
side of the panel, mark a horizontal 9 x 1/2
box (7 x 1/2 for Handbag) that is 3.5 down
from the top raw edge (2.5 for Handbag size)
and goes past the center crease by 4.5 on both
sides (3.5 for Handbag).
3.5
4.5
Pocket Panel
right side down
Flip over so you are looking at the wrong side of the Bottom Lining, and sew right along the
rectangle you marked. Now, inside the stitched rectangle, mark the (black solid) lines as shown
below (a center line, stopping 1/2 from ends, then to corners), then cut along the lines. Be
careful not to clip the stitching.
1/2
1/2
11
Pull the Zippered Pocket Panel through the hole you just cut and press all flat against the wrong
side of the Main Panel. Pin a 9 zipper (7 for Handbag size) on the wrong side, face down and
centered over the hole. Make sure the zipper pull is in the opening. Edge stitch the entire way
around the zipper to attach. (Optional Tip: Try using fabric glue or scotch tape along the edges of the
zipper in place of the pins to attach to Bottom Lining before sewing)
Fold
8) LINING ASSEMBLY
Pin the Top Zipper Panel to a
Bottom Lining panel, with the
bottom wrong side of the zipper
against the right side of the
Bottom Lining panel, matching the
long raw edge of the Top Zipper
Panel to the top straight edge of
the Bottom Lining. The zipper will
be face up. The Bottom Lining
edge will be a little bit longer, so
center the Top Zipper Panel so its
an equal distance from the top
corners of the Bottom Lining. Sew
along the top edge only at 1/2
seam allowance.
12
Pin a Top Lining panel right side down over the zipper, matching the longest edge with the top
edge of the Bottom Lining. The Top Zipper Panel will be sandwiched between the two with the
right side (top side) of the zipper against the right side of the Top Lining.
Top Lining
Flip over so that the Bottom Lining is up and sew over the same stitching at 1/2 seam allowance.
Now fold and press the Top Lining and Bottom Lining away from the zipper. Press the seam
allowance UP, so that it is against the wrong side of the Top Lining. Flip over so the right side of
the Top Lining and Bottom Lining are up and top stitch, about 1/8 above and parallel to, the
seam, through the Top Lining and seam allowance.
13
Repeat the instructions on the last page to sew the remaining Bottom Lining and Top Lining
panels to the other long raw edge of the Top Zipper Panel. Then press the seam allowance up
and top stitch the same.
Set aside for now.
9) BAG ASSEMBLY
Fold the assembled exterior Gusset in half, right sides together and matching the two top short
edges and press to make a center crease (or mark the center along both long edges within the
seam allowance). You should still have center marks on the exterior Main Panels. If you dont,
fold in half, right sides together and matching all raw edges and mark the center (at the fold) along
the bottom edge within the seam allowance. Repeat to mark the centers of the lining Gusset and
both Bottom Lining panels (you will have to unzip the Top Zipper to fold the Bottom Lining panels
in half).
Pin the exterior Gusset to an exterior Main Panel, right sides together and matching one long
edge of the Gusset to the U shaped edge of the Main Panel. Pin at the center marks first, then
pin each end of the Gusset to the top of the Main Panel. Then start at the top and work your way
down to the bottom curved corners, pinning every inch or so, until the long edge of the Gusset is
completely pinned to the U of the Main Panel. Be sure to match the bottom edges of the Side
Panel Overlays with the bottom edge of the Main Panel Overlay. With the Main Panel up, start at
the top of the Main Panel and sew at a 1/2 seam allowance down the side, across the bottom,
and back up the other side, backstitching at start and stop.
Match Centers
Repeat the last paragraph to sew the remaining exterior Main Panel to the other long edge of
the exterior Gusset. Trim all seam allowances down to about 1/4.
Repeat this entire step to assemble the lining, leaving a 6 opening along the bottom edge of
one Bottom Lining. Be careful not to sew through the Top Zipper Panel at any point and also not
to twist the zipper. Trim the seam allowances everywhere except along the 6 opening.
14
Trim the seam allowance down to about 1/8 and turn the bag right side out through the hole you
left in the bottom of the lining. Fold the raw edges of the opening in 1/2 and press. Pin the
opening closed and edgestitch very close to the folds to close the opening in the lining,
backstitching at start and stop.
Press the entire bag well, especially the top seam. Top stitch around the entire top opening of the
bag, about 1/4 from the finished edge.
11) HANDLES
Fold a Handle in half, wrong sides together and matching the long
edges and press to make a center crease. Open and fold each long
edge to the center crease, so that the long raw edges are butting up
against each other at the center and press.
Fold in half again, matching the two folded long edges and press
again. Now the two long raw edges should be hidden within the
Handle and the Handle should be 1.5 wide (1 for Handbag size).
Top stitch down each long edge of the Handle, about 1/8 from the
edge.
Fold a raw end of the Handle under 1/2 and press. Fold under again 3/4 and press. Repeat
with the other raw end of the same Handle. Pull one end of the Handle through a rectangle ring
already attached to the exterior of the bag, with the rectangle inside the fold at the very end. Pin
and sew across the Handle about 5/8 from the end fold to secure the Handle to the bag,
backstitch and stitch again. It helps me to mark a straight line across the Handle to follow. Mark
then sew another line of stitching closer to the rectangle ring parallel to the first one. Repeat to
sew the other end of the same Handle to the other rectangle ring on the same side of the bag,
making sure the Handle isnt twisted.
Repeat this entire step to attach the remaining Handle to the other side of the bag.
15
TOTE
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FOLD
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
swoon
Tote Size
Main Panel
Cut 2 Exterior
Cut 2 Foam Interfacing
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TOTE
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
Tote Size
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
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TOTE
FOLD
Tote Size
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
Tote Size
Side Panel
Cut 2 Exterior
Cut 2 Lining
Cut 2 Woven Interfacing
Cut 2 Foam Interfacing
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TOTE
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
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TOTE
Tote Size
Top Lining
Cut 2 Lining
Cut 2 Woven Interfacing
FOLD
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S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
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Tote Size
Connectors
TOTE
Cut 4 Stabilizer
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TOTE
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
swoon
Tote Size
Cut 4 Lining
FOLD
TOTE
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FOLD
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
swoon
Tote Size
Bottom Lining
Cut 2 Lining
Cut 2 Woven Interfacing
TOTE
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Cut 8 Lining
Cut 4 Woven Interfacing
Connectors
Tote Size
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
swoon
Tote Size
Bottom Panel
Cut 2 Lining
Cut 1 Woven Interfacing
Cut 1 Foam Interfacing
Cut size: 12.5 x 6.75
swoon
TOTE
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FOLD
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
swoon
Handbag Size
Main Panel
Cut 2 Exterior
Cut 2 Foam Interfacing
TOTE
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FOLD
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
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TOTE
FOLD
Handbag Size
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
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TOTE
Top Lining
Cut 2 Lining
Cut 2 Woven Interfacing
FOLD
swoon
Handbag Size
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
Handbag Size
Bottom Lining
FOLD
Cut 2 Lining
Cut 2 Woven Interfacing
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TOTE
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handbag & MARKET
Cut 4 Lining
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
Handbag Size
swoon
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TOTE
Handbag Size
Bottom Panel
Cut 2 Lining
Cut 1 Woven Interfacing
Cut 1 Foam Interfacing
Cut size: 9.5 x 5.5
FOLD
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
TOTE
Cut 4 Lining
Handbag Size
swoon
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
evelyn
TOTE
FOLD
F
Cut 2 Exterior
Cut 2 Lining
Cut 2 Woven Interfacing
Cut 2 Foam Interfacing
Side Panel
Handbag Size
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
swoon
TOTE
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S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
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Cut 8 Lining
Cut 4 Woven Interfacing
Connectors
Handbag Size
S E W I N G PAT T E R N S
swoon
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Connectors
Handbag Size
TOTE
Cut 4 Stabilizer
TOTE
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