HAND TUFT GUN 2004

OPERATOR/TECHNICAL MANUAL

PREFACE
This manual combines Operator and Technical information for the Hand Tuft Gun 2004 (HTG-2004), in one small,
easy-to-read booklet. We put them together because of two important reasons:
1. You have to know the HTG-2004's technical information in order to operate it correctly; and
2. You have to know the HTG-2004's operator information in order to maintain in properly.
As matter of fact, in most cases the operator also performs the maintenance!

Who needs to read this manual?

Everybody does.
* An experienced hand-tuft carpet maker will appreciate the advances incorporated into HTG-2004, and will find all
the details - everything he needs and wants to know - presented here in straightforward language.
* A new worker will enjoy how quickly he gets started, doing the job right, right from the start - and will find the
manual's contents and layout designed with his success in mind.

HAND TUFT GUN 2004

OPERATOR/TECHNICAL MANUAL 1. Introduction
The Hand Tuft Gun 2000 (HTG-2004) is an electro-pneumatically operated machine used to create handtufted carpets.
It accepts a wide variety of yarns, producing both cut - and loop-piles over a broad range of heights.

2. Structure
The HTG-2004 consists of the following eight assemblies:
a.
b.
c.
d.

Motor
Gear
Cylinder
Piston

e.
F.
g.
h.

Cutting Mechanism
Support Handle
Air Valve
Feed System

2.1 Assemblies
Motor: The motor provides the rotary motion necessary to power the HTG-2004' mechanical assemblies.
The motor is a commercially purchased electric drill, without the usual chuck assembly. Available in either 100VAC
or 220VAC designs, the motor provides continuously-variable, trigger-operated speed-control from 0 to 2050 RPM.
For detailed information about the motor, refer to the accompanying manufacturer's pamphlet.
Gear: The gear assembly performs three major functions. One section transfers rotary-motion from the motor to the
cutting mechanism. Another portion changes rotary-motion to linear piston movement, via a pair of heilcal-gears and
an eccentrically-fed drive shaft. A third element powers the feed system.
In addition, the gear housing provides clamps at its front and rear, which coup it between the motor and cylinder
assembly.
Cylinder: The cylinder is a steel tube, similar to the breech-block of a gun. Parallk, slots are cut through it on the left
and right sides, which permit drive shaft-to-piston connection and yarn feeding. The cylinder houses the piston, and
serves as the mount for the support handle and needle guide.
Piston: The piston is located inside the cylinder. It is connected on the left side, through the cylinder slot, to the drive
shaft. An opening on the right side allows yarn to enter and pass through it and the hollow needle, mounted on its tip.
The piston also acts as the mount for the cutting mechansim.

TECHNICAL MANUAL
Cutting Mechanism: The cutting mechanism is based on a self-sharpening blade, which rotates at motor speed and
moves in tandem with the piston. The blade is not used when making looped-pile designs.
Support Handle: The support handle is attached to an "L-shaped ring-bracket, located towards the front of the
cylinder. This arrangement enables the entire assembly to swivel freely, a full 360 around the cylinder.
Air Valve: The air valve, mounted on top of the gear housing is a spring-controlled inlet valve, operated by the driveshaft. The air valve furnishes momentary blasts of compressed air, which propel the yarn through the piston and hollow
needle.
Feed System: The feed system provides constant pressure against the feed wheel, and keeps the yarn properly aligned
between the feed wheels.
2.2 Functional Sequence
The motor rotates, turning the lower helical-gear. This gear is connected to a splined shaft, transferring rotary motion
directly to the cutting blade. At the same time, the lower helical-gear meshes with the upper helical-gear, redirecting
the rotary motion 90, turning the feed wheel and drive-shaft axle simultaneously.
The drive shaft rear is connected to the drive-shaft axle, and the front to the piston, via a slot in the cylinder. The driveshaft axle spins, rotating the rear of the drive shaft eccentrically, causing the drive shaft to move back-and-forth. This
linear
motion is transmitted to the piston, moving the hollow needle, mounted on its front, in-and-out of the fabric.
Meanwhile, the feed wheel and feed counter-wheel press together. The feed wheel rotates, turning the counter wheel.
Yarn fed through the thread passage is drawn between the two feed wheels, aligned, and enters the piston.
During the drive-shaft's forward movement it pulls a spring, opening the air-valve. Air enters the forward part of the
piston, and propels the yarn through the piston and out of the hollow needle, to the front side of the carpet.
As the drive-shaft moves backward, the air-valve closes, preventing any more yarn from moving. When the tip of the
hollow needle has passed inside the needle guide, the cutting blade slices the yarn at a point directly behind the rear of
the needle.
While the operator moves the HTG-2000 slightly along the backing, this functional sequence repeats itself. As it does,
the remainder of the first cut piece of yarn (still
in the hollow needle), together. with a "new" section of yarn, pass through the backing, completing one cut-pile tuft and
beginning another.

Loop-pile functional sequences are the same as for cut-pile, with the exception that the cutting blade is removed, and
the in-and-out cycles create a series of closed loops.

3. Operation
Operating the HTG-2004 - using it to make beautiful carpets and tapestries - is the name of the game. And teaching
you how to operate it properly is what this section is all about.
Read the instructions - they were written for you. If you still have questions, ask someone for help - the only "stupid"
question is the one that doesn't get asked! Make sure that you understand what to do and how to do it.
Most important - if you follow these instructions you'll do it right, and that means you'll do it well.
3.1 Get Ready
"Getting ready" the first part of operation, is concerned with setting-up your HTG-2004, Before you can begin, you
must have the answers to two essential questions:
a. What is the pile length?
b. Is the pile "cut" or "loop"?
How you set-up your HTG-2004 is determined by the answers to these questions.
Regardless of the pile length, to make cut-pile carpeting you must match and/or adjust six components:
1. Feed Wheel (BO0151A-F)
4. Hollow Needle (DO1081A-F)
2.
3.

Feed-Lever Spring (H01071)

Drive Shaft (B00071)

5.
6.

Needle Guide C01021)

Cutting Blade (E01071)

To do so, follow this sequence of steps. You will find detailed instructions on how to perform them in section 4,
Changing/Adjusting Components.
Step 1: Verify that the feed-wheel number, stamped on its outer face, corresponds to the desired pile length. If the
number is different, change the feed wheel.
Step 2: Verify that the feed lever can move freely. If not, adjust the feed-lever spring.
Step 3: Inspect the connecting position between the drive shaft and the drive-shaft

HAND TUFT GUN 2000

OPERATOR/TECHNICAL MANUAL
gear-hole. Verify that the gear-hole number, stamped directly to the left of the hole, corresponds to the desired pile
length. If the number is different, change the drive-shaft connecting position.
CAUTION: If the gear-hole number is larger than the pile length, the needle guide will break when the piston extends.
If the gear-hole number is smaller than the pile length, the needle will not penetrate all the way through
the fabric, which may result in uneven pile height.
Step 4: Verify that the hollow-needle number, stamped on its outside, corresponds to the desired pile length. If the
number is different, change the needle.
NOTE: To make shag carpet, use a hollow needle size that is different than the feed-wheel size.
Step 5: Verify that the tip of the hollow needle, when fully retracted, is just behind the outer face of the needle guide. If
not, adjust the needle guide.
Step 6: Verify that the cutting blade, with the drive shaft fully-rearward, covers the hollow-needle hole. If not, adjust
the cutting blade.
To make loop-pile carpeting, perform steps 1-5 as before. Then in place of Step 6, remove the cutting blade.
3.2 Get Set
"Getting set", the second part of operation, is concerned with connecting your HTG-2004 to the "outside world". You
have to supply it with electricity, compressed air, and yarn.
To do so, follow this sequence of steps:
Step 1: Using the 5mm allen wrench, rotate the drive shaft several times, verifying that all parts move freely.
Step 2: Verify that the trigger-lock is OFF (button in the "out" position). To make sure, press-and-release the trigger

several times. Then, insert the power-cord plug into a nearby receptacle.
Warning! The voltage provided by the receptacle must be the same as the voltage required by you HTG-2004!
Step 3: Attach the HTG-2004's air-line connector to the compressed-air source's quick-release fitting. Make sure that
the connector is fully seated.
NOTE: Optimal air pressure is between 8-10 atmospheres, although the HTG-2000 will work at as little as 6
atmospheres.
Step 4: Insert the yarn, either single or multiple strands, with a total diameter of up to 6mm, into the feed system.
a. Hold the HTG-2004 in the palm of your left hand, facing upward, with you thumb on the trigger.
b. Grasp the tip of the yarn with your right hand, and insert it into the thread passage until it reaches between the feed
wheels. c. Press the trigger momentarily, so that the yarn is drawn between the feed wheels. Repeat several times, until
approximately 20cm of yarn have been drawn through.
d. Insert the tip of the yarn into the piston. Watch the air pressure pull the yarn through the piston and out the hollow
needle.
NOTE: If the air pressure is too low, increase it, using the procedure given in section 4.7.
Step 5: Once, again, gently press the trigger this time for a little longer. The gun will "spit out" cut strands of yarn,
according to the feed-wheel size.

HAND TUFT GUN 2004

OPERATOR/TECHNICAL MANUAL

HAND-TUFT TIPS
a. Always begin with the hollow needle extended out from the needle guide. This helps you find the
correct starting point on the backing.
b. Always stick the hollow needle through the backing before you press the trigger. This ensures that
tufting actually begins at the correct starting point.
c. Always make sure when moving the gun that the top of the needle guide proceeds first in the direction of
movement.
This guarantees that you control the gun's operation, and that you obtain correct tuft-tightness and-spacing.
d. Always perform the routine maintenance procedures. "An ounce of prevention
is worth a pound of cure".

3.3 Go!
"Go", the third part of operation, is concerned with how to run your HTG-2004, but does not deal with
actual techniques of hand-tuft carpet making.
By this time you have already set-up the gun, and supplied it with electricity, compressed air, and yarn.
Before going any further, perform this series of final checks:
With the drive shaft fully-rearward:
Check 1:
That the cutting blade covers the hollow-needle hole.
Check 2:

That the hollow needle extends out from the needle guide.

With the cutting blade at approximately 8 o'clock:

Check 3:
That compressed-air flow begins.
Check 4:
That the hollow needle extends out from the needle guide.
With the cutting blade at approximately 4 o'clock: Check 5:
That
compressed-air flow stops.
If your HTG-2000 has passed all the final checks, you're in business! You can make rugs, carpets, and
wall-hangings in any size you choose, combining different yarns, colors, pile-types and lengths,
creating a masterpiece each time.

view
CUTTING BLADE AT APPROXIMATELY 8 O'CLOCK.
A

4.

HAND TUFT GUN

AL

4. Changing/Adjusting Components
This section contains step-by-step instructions for routine changing and adjusting
of specific HTG-2004 components. At first. you will find it helpful to keep the illustrated parts-list in front of you
during changing/adjusting. The number that appears there, next to each part, corresponds to the part's name, given in
the parts-list.
When you work on the HTG-2004, the only too! required is the "Universal" set that comes with it. Make sure that the
alien wrench you use is the same as the set-screw size.
NOTE: All screws have right-hand threads. This means that you turn a screw clockwise (CW) to tighten it, and
counter-clockwise (CCW) to loosen it.
4.1 Changing the Feed Wheel
Step 1: Insert a "helper pin" (a sturdy nail, for example) between the rear face of the piston and the cylinder slot.
This prevents the feed-wheel from turning.
Step 2: Using the 3mm alien wrench, loosen and remove the feed-wheel screw (1300161).
Step 3: Depress the feed lever (HO1011) and remove the feed whcel (BO0151A-F). Keep holding the feed lever down,
and position the feed wheel corresponding to the desired pile length.
Make sure that the feed wheel is fully seated in the gear nut (B00051). Then release the feed lever.
Step 4: Thread the feed-wheel screw in place, and tighten it securely. Remove the "helper pin" when you are done.

4.2 Adjusting the Feed-Lever Spring

If you changed to a much larger-sized feed wheel, you will probably not be able to move the feed lever. In this case you
must adjust the feed-lever spring. To do so, follow these steps:
Step 1: Using the 4mm alien wrench, losen the feed-lever screw (H01091) slightly, until you hear a "click".
The feed lever moves freely now, because there is no tension on the spring.
Step 2: Push the feed )ever until the feed counter-wheel (H01031) presses firmly (but not too tightly) against the feed
wheel, and hold it there.
Step 3: Insert a "helper pin" into one of the 4 holes on the feed-lever axle (H01061). Using the wrench, turn the axle
clockwise until no further rotation is possible, and hold it there.
You can let go of the feed lever - the spring tension keeps it from moving.
Step 4: Release the spring tension slightly, by backing-off the feed-lever axle 5 - 10, and tighten the feed-lever screw
securely. Remove the "helper pin" when you are done.
4.3 Changing the Drive Shaft Connection
Step 1: Insert a "helper pin" between the rear face of the piston and the cylinder slot.
This prevents the drive-shaft axle from turning.
Step 2: Using the 5mm alien wrench, loosen and remove the rear drive-shaft screw (B00081).
Be careful not to lose the shim! (B00061).
Step 3: Align the rear drive-shaft (B00071) with the drive-shaft axle hole (B00041) corresponding to the desired pile
length. Then slide the shim between them.
Step 4: Thread the drive-shaft screw in place, and tighten it securely. Remove the "helper pin" when you are done.
4.4 Changing the Hollow Needle
Before going any further, rotate the drive shaft so that the hollow needle is in the fully-forward position.
Step 1: Using the 3mm alien wrench, loosen the two needle guide screws (C01041) 1/2-turn each, then slide the needle
guide (C01021) out.
7

HAND TUFT
OPERATOR/TECHNICAL MANUAL

Step 2: Place the hole of the "Universal" wrench over the hollow needle
(DO1081A-F), seating the pin in the needle-nut hole (D01091).
Step 3: Loosen and unscrew the needle nut, removing it and the hollow needle. Then slide the nut off the needle.
Step 4: Place the needle nut over the hollow needle corresponding to the desired pile length, positioning them in place.
Step 5: Align the tip of the hollow needle so that if faces upwards, and in line with the long axis of the gun.
Step 6: Using the "Universal" wrench, tighten the needle nut. Make sure to keep the hollow needle aligned.
Step 7: Replace the needle guide, but do not tighten the needle-guide screws. Step 8: Insert the 5mm allen wrench into
the rear drive-shaft screw, and rotate the
rear drive shaft until it is fully-rearward.
Step 9: Adjust the needle guide so that the tip of the hollow needle is just behind its outer face.
Step 10: Now, tighten the needle-guide screws securely.
4.5 Changing (or Removing) the Cutting Blade
Before going any further, rotate the drive shaft so that the drive-shaft screw is at "12 o'clock".
Step 1: Insert a "helper pin" between the rear face of the piston and the cylinder slot.
This prevents the cutting blade from turning.

Step 2: Using the 2.5mm alien wrench, loosen and remove the cutting-blade screw (E01091)
Make a note of the direction in which the cutting blade (E010171) is pointing (4 o'clock, for example). Then remove
the blade and its clamp (E01081).
Step 3: Position the new cutting blade so that it points in the same direction as the old one, and its slots are aligned
with the base slots (E01041).
Step 4: Set the cutting-blade clamp on the blade. Make sure that the "teeth" on its underside are seated fully in the base
slots.
Step 5: Thread the cutting-blade screw in place, and tighten it securely.
If your assembly is correct, the cutting-blade's edge will touch the surface of the base.

HAND TUFT GUN 2004

OPERATOR/TECHNICAL MANUAL
4.6 Adjusting the Cutting Blade
There are two possible reasons why the cutting blade does not cover the hollow-needle hole:
a. When you changed/removed the cutting blade, you replaced it 180 out of line; or
b. Because of a very large change in desired pile length, the corresponding change in drive-shaft connection resulted in
a shift in blade position. To adjust the cutting blade, follow these steps:
Step 1: Using the 5mm allen wrench, lossen the gear housing-to-motor clamp (B00101). Then slide the motor
(A00001) out.
All the components will move freely, now.
Step 2: Using the 2.5mm allen wrench, rotate the cutting blade until it covers the hollow-needle hole.
Step 3: Grasp the gear housing in your left hand. With your thumb rotate the drive shaft until the rear drive-shaft screw
is at "12 o'clock", and hold it there.
Step 4: Insert the motor gently into the gear housing until the teeth on the inside of the upper helical-gear (A00031)
mesh with the cutting mechanism's splined shaft (E01011).
You will probably have to try several times before you succeed, so don't get upset. Step 5: Release your thumb from
the dirve-shaft, and seat the motor fully.
Step 6: Align the seam on top of the motor housing with the long axis of the gun. Then tighten the gear housing-tomotor clamp securely.
Step 7: Rotate the drive shaft fully-rearward, and verify that the cutting blade covers the hollow-needle hole.
4.7 Adjusting the Air-Flow
Step 1: Using the 5mm allen wrench, loosen the front drive-shaft screw (B00081) very slightly, allowing the air-valve
spring mounting-bracket (D01071) to move.
To increase air-flow, rotate the mounting-bracket CCW. to decrease air-flow, rotate the mounting-bracket CW.
Step 2: Tighten the ddrive-shaft screw securely.

5. Maintenance
This section contains instruction for routine preventive maintenance of your HTG-2004 - what to do, and when to do it.
Think of it in terms of "care and feeding"

Half-Hourly
Cleaning
Lubricating
Adjusting

Daily

2 Weeks

2 Months

1
2a

2b
3

NOTES:
1. Clean with compressed air at the end of each workday. Remember to point the air away from any nearby carpeting!
2a. Every half-hour, put a drop of machine oil on the cutting-blade base, on the front and rear drive-shaft linkages, and
on all visible piston surfaces.
Three times-a-day, put a drop of machine oil into the air-valve hole (on left side).
2b. Every two weeks, remove the motor, and grease the teeth of the upper/lower helical-gears and the splined shaft.
3.

Every two months, tighten all screws.