•

1
 CERTIFICATE.
This is to certify that the report for

PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT
Submitted by

Mr. Bhavin Mehta

Embodies the bonafide work done at

RAYMOND TEXTILES
(Worsted Suiting Division)
by him under my guidance and supervision

Date: Prof. Neela Nair

(H O D)

This report has been examined as per the requirements at Mithibai

Date: Prof. Parshuram

2
 PREFACE.

I take an opportunity to present this synopsis report on production of worsted

suitings and put before readers some useful information regarding my project.

I have made sincere attempts and taken every care to present this matter in precise
and compact form, the language being as simple as possible.

I are sure that the information contained in this volume would be certainly prove
useful for better insight in the scope and dimension of this subject in it’s true
perspective and I have taken care of the fact that “God lies in detail”

I are trying our best in our task of completing this project and I hope due to our
involvement, I will be able to carry it out successfully.

“Success is how high you bounce, when you hit the bottom.”

Mr. Bhavin Mehta.

3
 TABLE OF CONTENTS.

1. COMPANY PROFILE.

2. HISTORICAL BACKGROUND.

3. ENVIRONMENT.

4. PLANT LAYOUT.

5. PRODUCTION OF WORSTED SUITING.

• COMBING.
• SPINNING
• WEAVING
• DYEING
6. FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

7. INSPECTION & R&D

8. QUALITY CHECK

9. KAIZEN.

10. CONCLUSION.

4
INTRODUCTION

Raymond is amongst the first three fully integrated manufacturers in the

business of Worsted suiting in the world. It is recognised as the most
respected textile Company of India. As the flag-bearer of the multi-
product, multi-divisional Raymond Group, it enjoys over 60% share of
Indian Worsted Suiting Market. It produces 25 million metres of high-value
pure-wool, wool blended and premium polyester viscose suiting in addition
to half a million blankets and shawls, all marketed under the flagship
brand "Raymond" - a worldwide trusted name since 1925. It also produces
and markets plush-velvet furnishing fabric in wide array of designs and
colours including carpeting for the niche markets of India and Middle East.
Manufacturing facilities include three world-class fully integrated plants in
India, employing state-of-the-art technology from wool scouring to finishing
stage and modern quality management (ISO 9001) as well as
Environment Control Systems (ISO 14001). All the plants are self-
sufficient in terms of providing educational, housing, recreation and
spiritual support system for the employees and connected townships.
Products are distributed through about 300 exclusive retail shops in India
and surrounding countries, 30,000 multi-brand retail outlets and over 100
wholesale distributors. In addition to Middle East and SAARC countries, its
products are sold to discerning customers in over 60 countries including
premium fashion labels all over the world.

HISTORY
Around the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating and
expanding its various businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in a
similar manner engaged in fulfilling his dream: he set up a small woollen
mill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kms away from Bombay. This mill
was soon acquired by the Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of
Bombay, who renamed it as The Raymond Woollen Mills.
When the Singhanias were looking for new
regions to establish their presence and new fields
to venture into, they concurred that textiles
appeared to hold promise. A piece of information
that a woollen mill was available on the outskirts
of Bombay clinched the issue.
When the grandson of Lala Juggilal, Lala
Kailashpat Singhania took over Raymond in
1944, the mill was primarily making cheap and
coarse woollen blankets, and modest quantities of
low priced woollen fabrics.

5
The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania helped greatly in
establishing the J.K. Group’s presence in the western region. Under his
able stewardship, Raymond embarked upon a gradual phase of
technological upgradation and modernisation producing woolen fabrics of
a far superior quality.
Under Mr. Gopalakrishna Singhania, the mill became a world-class factory
and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen
fabrics. At Raymond, quality did not rest on its laurels. When Dr. Vijayapat
Singhania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected fresh
vigour into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial
conglomerate. His son Mr. Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairman
and managing director has been instrumental in restructuring the Group.
With the divestment of the Synthetics, Steel and Cement divisions he
initiated, the Group has emerged stronger with a better bottom line, more
focused approach, become market oriented and achieved a consolidated
position.
Today, the woolen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 crores
conglomerate and is India’s leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with
60% market share. It is also the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and
readymade garments to 54 countries including Australia, Canada, USA,
the European Union and Japan. The Raymond group is also the leader
among ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000 million with its
three brands – Park Avenue, Parx and Manzoni.

6
ECO-FRIENDLY

One of the theoretical aspects of production, which we have learnt but is

not considered much in the textile industry, is the pollution control. In
Raymonds, I have learnt that huge companies do not only think of filling
they pockets but are very much in the unsaid code of conduct. The
Raymonds factory has been made environmental friendly where they keep
a track of the pollution created by the factory. They have the most
advanced machineries to provide them a better efficiency less wastage
and contrary less pollution is created. Here below is one of the charts that
show the pollution level of the company.

ENVIRONMENT CHECK

Parameters Units Average

(As per Govt. Norms) 1 2
PH 5.5 – 9 7.65 7.9
TSS 10/MG LT 22 18
COD 250/MG LT 181 172
BOD 100/MG LT 66 40
OIL & GREESE 10/MG LT 3.3 1.0
TOTAL URANIUM 2 0.3 NIL
SULHPHIDES 2 NIL NIL
PHENOLIC COMPD 1 0.17 .43

Some harmful chemicals created during the process are dumped at

THANE CREEK under the supervision and in lawful measurement.
Raymonds has quite a big infrastructure created at THANE. The ceilings
are at a quite a long range to provide enough space for fresh air to come
in. There are trees being grown in the surrounding to keep the
temperature controlled. They have the best of machines which help them
on high noise elimination. In my trip I have come to an observation that
Raymonds do believe in “Getting the Best Technology”. The machines
that Raymonds are presently using are the most efficient and updated
machineries. The have they laboratories where process innovation is the
main criteria.

7
PLANT LOCATION

Raymonds has selected the plant location in THANE. According to me

this is an ideal location as it has the following benefits.

 Easy Access for the workers and factory member as the plant is
located near the highway and few minutes from the railway station.
 Transport facilities are easy hence benefiting the people at work,
transportation of raw material, finished goods etc.
 The raw materials are mainly imported from outside and Mumbai
being the import port it has easy access of material.
 It is easier to provide the finished goods to Raymond outlets as the
transportation facilities are excellent.
 The waste material dumping is done at Thane Creek; it is nearby
hence it is more cost effective.
 Mumbai is the ideal place for worsted suiting as Mumbai has one of
the ideal moisture levels for the production.
 Skillful and unskillful laborers are available at affordable salary
packages in Thane.
 Mumbai being a cosmopolitan market it becomes favorable for the
company to get inputs faster and create a market of the product.

8
 PRODUCTION OF WORSTED SUITING

The Production System of Raymonds is divided into mainly four division

viz. Combing, Spinning, Weaving & Dyeing

COMBING SPINNING
DEPARTMENT DEPARTMENT

RAYMONDS-
PRODUCTIO
N SYSTEM

DYEING WEAVING
DEPARTMENT DEPARTMENT

9
COMBING DEPARTMENT

In the Combing Department, the process starts with the Greasy wool
which is more furnished and tends to convert into tops which is taken to
Dyeing department. This process is diagrammatically explained below.

WOOL

SCOURING

DRYING

OILING

GILLING

COMBING

WOOL TOPS

TOP DYEING

10
RAW MATERIAL

WOOL
The processing of wool involves four major steps. First comes shearing,
followed by sorting and grading, making yarn and lastly, making fabric.
The wool used in making suiting in mainly imported from different
countries like New Zealand, South Africa and major wool is imported from
Australia (90%). In the suiting process Marino Wool is used at a very large
extent. It originated from Spain and it was declared a priced possession by
the Spain that it was a capital offense to export wool. Marino sheep
produces the best wool. The staple is relatively short ranging from 1” to 5”
but fiber is strong. The wool is tested before export by Australian Wool
Testing Authority (AWTA).

Characteristics:
 Natural, Animal Fiber
 Comfortable
 Versatile
 Lightweight
 Good insulator
 Washable
 Wrinkle-resistant
 Absorbent
 Easy to dye
 Warmth Effect

Wool Quality Check

Length : 50-70mm
Average Length : 60 mm
Fineness : 17.5-24.5 microns
Average Fineness : 21 microns
Crease Content : 12.37%
Vegetable Matter : 1-2%
Moisture : 16-18%
Bale Weight : 450 Kg’s Approx
Bale Size : 56” by 30” by 30”.

11
CAMEL HAIR
Camel hair fabrics can be said as an ideal
comfort, particularly when used for suiting
fabrication, as they are especially warm but light
in weight. Strength, luster and smoothness
characterize camel hair. The best quality is
expensive when used alone so it is often mixed
with wool, thus raising the quality of the wool
fabric by adding the fine qualities of camel hair. In some fabrics, which
tend to be of high quality have 100% camel hair other than that it is mixed
to be in an affordable price.

MOHAIR
Mohair is the hair of an Angora goat, which used to be native of Angora
where it got its name but now it is found in abundant is South Africa and
the United States mainly in California and Texas. The Texas mohair is
regarded as an excellent quality raw material. It’s a long staple, 9-12 inch
[230-300mm] long and represents a full year’s growth . The domestic fiber
has a goat amount to coarse, stiff hair, known as “Kemp” which does not
process readily or allow through penetration of dye. Mohair is a smooth,
strong and resilient fiber. It does not attract or hold dirt particulars and
tends to absorbs dye evenly and permanently. It’s used in giving fine
decoration. Mohair fiber is more uniform in diameter than wool fiber. They
are wrinkle resistant and is stronger that wool of other fibers.

CASHMERE
The Cashmere goat has originated from the great Himalayas mountains
region of Kashmir in India, Mongolia and china. The fleece of this goat has
long, straight, coarse outer hair of little value, however, the small quantity
of under hair or down is made into luxuriously soft wool like yarns with the
characteristics highly napped one of its characteristics is that it is not
sheared from the goat but is obtained by frequent combings during the
shedding season. It has all the qualities of mohair and is used as an add-
on with mohair hair.

ALPACA
In the higher regions of the Andes, 14,000 ft (4250mt) above sea level, is
found another fleece bearer, Alpaca, and a domesticated animal that
resembles the llama and is related to the camel. The fiber is valued for its
silky beauty as well as for its strengths. The hair of the alpaca is stronger
than ordinary sheep’s wool is water repellent, and has a high insulative
quality.

The staple is relatively long, ranging from 6 to 11” (150-250 mm) yet it is
as delicate, soft and lustrous as the finest silk. A more highly selected type
of alpaca is “suri”, a super breed just as the Merino is the highest type of
sheep. It is used in the making of the finest fabrics like the presidential
collection.

ANGORA
Then Angora rabbit produces long, fine, silky white hair that is clipped or
combed every 3-4 months. The finest Angora comes from France, Italy &
Japan. The rabbit is also raised in many other parts of the world, including
the U.S. The fiber’s smooth, silky texture makes it different to spin and the
fibers tend to slip out of the yarn and shed from the fabric; nevertheless
the fiber is desired for its texture, warmth, light weight, and pure white
color, although it is sometimes dyed in pastel shades.

SILK
Silk is the very fine strand of fiber. It is a solidified “Protein” secretion
produced by certain caterpillars to encase themselves in the form of
cocoons, silk and wool is usually blended on a worsted system, producing
a fine, tong yarn. It is one of the important materials used in the process.
The fabric may have a soft sheen. They are light weighing, resilient,
durable and drape well, silk wool blends are used for such apparel as
suits, particularly summer weights. Silk provides strength and absorbency.
Silk reduces weight and adds good hand.

MAN-MADE FIBRES USED:

VISCOSE RAYON
A rayon fiber is composed of pure cellulose, the substance of which the
cell walls of such woody plants as trees and cotton are largely comprised.
We are more familiar with cellulose in the form of such product as paper.

Rayon fibers are made from cellulose that has been reformed, or
regenerated; consequently, these fibers are identified as regenerated
cellulose fibers.

POLYESTER
Polyesters are made from chemical substances found mainly in
petroleum. Polyester fibers are strong, tough materials that are
manufactured in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. They are mixed
with wool to make the fabric more cost effective.

They are found mainly in 2 categories

 Normal Polyester: The variety of polyester has good tenacity and

moderate luster
 Low Pill Polyester: Due to its low tenacity this variety show lower
pilling tendency in fabrics
Polyester is supplied from two major companies.

 Indian Organic Chemicals limited (IOC)

 Reliance Industries Limited (RIL)

GENERAL INFORMATION

1 Bale weight (Kg)=180-200

2 Density (lb/ft3)=17.6
3 Average length=68 mm
4 Package size (inch) =36*30*30
5 Average finest = 22.5
6 Grease content= 22-30%
7 Yield%=65-70
8 Vegetable matter= 2.0-0.5%
9 Scales/inch= 4200-4800
10 Moisture content= 18%
11 RI (µ)= 1.54

SORTING
Sorting can be defined as dividing the fleeces of wool manually into
various qualities according to the process requirement. Sorting divides the
fleeces of wool into various mixtures on the basis of the fineness of length.
This process of sorting is no longer carried out in Raymond since it is not
economically viable and also manpower is needed more and it is very time
consuming.

Earlier the sorting operation was done in Raymond only. But now the
bales that are imported are sorted already and the sorting department is
eliminated permanently. The bale number, weight of bale, quality is written
on the bale cover and when bales are come they are weigh and taken to
store in the scouring department and storage. So the bales are now
directly fed to scouring (wool washing) machines.

SCOURING
The principles underlying the scouring of wool or other material is purifying
substance under the conditions employed with a minimum harmful effect
on the textile material. Wool scouring is the process of washing wool in
alkaline solution, soda mixture and hot water to remove the non-wool
contaminants and then drying it. It has always been an important step in
the wool processing train.
A growing concern for the environment has led to increased demands on
the scouring process. Pollution load associated with conventional
emulsion scouring of greasy wool is extremely high entanglement or
felting results in fiber breakage during carding, gilling, and combing and
has two bad effects: it reduces the mean fiber length in the resultant top
and decreases the combing tear or the ratio of top to noel.

The tanks are allocated in such a position that the procedure is done on
an automatic base and are allocated on a permissible distance and
attached to each other. The first tank consists of soda mixture and alkaline
solution the other two tanks preceding the first tank are of detergent.
Silvotex A is mainly used in the procedure.

Here the wool is cleaned intensively to reduce the maximum amount of

impurities present in the wool. The last two tanks are extensively used for
rinsing, in this procedure the detergent used in the previous tank is
washed away and the wool tends to float above the water. During the
process the wool tends to turn whiter and whiter while the impurities are
separated.

DRYING
After the scouring process is done the drying process comes into phase
here the rinsed wool tends to dry but is not allowed to become absolutely
dry. Usually about 12 to 16% of the moisture is left in the wool to condition
it for subsequent handling. On an overall there are 8 dryers to do the
process. One subsequent process takes around 12 minutes.
BLOCK DIAGRAM OF WOOL WASHING MACHINE
TANK NO.: I – V

FEEDING I
UNIT Soda II III IV V Dryer Delivery
DUST,
BALE Ash DET DET Water Water
BREAKER

• SODA ASH-REMOVES OIL AND SUINT

• DET-DUST, DIRT, FOREIGN MATTER, SAND
• WATER-RINSING AND REMOVAL OF DET

Technical Inputs
• Efficiency of the machine tends to differ anywhere from 40%-80%.
• Production around 400 - 450 kgs/hr.
• Dirty water drainage is after every 15 min’s.
• Maximum capacity around 6000lts.
• Water Temperature around 55 to 60 C.
• Dryer Temperature around 85 to 110 c
• Impurities removed around 25% to 28%
• Moisture Content removed around 25% to 30%

OILING
As wool is unmanageable after scouring, the fiber is usually treated with
various oils such as 60% wool oil and 40% antistatic agent to keep it from
becoming brittle and to lubricate for spinning operation. As for these
process is very important oiling tends to help the fiber from not becoming
hard or else it tends to break faster.

CARDING
Once wool has been scoured, it will have been carded before it can be
spun into yarn. Carding is a process that passes the wool through a series
of rollers covered with fine bristles or fine wire teeth. This process is to
remove impurities such as burr, vegetable matters, dust, dirt (heavier than
wool), to enable blending of various fibres and evening it out and to
convert random bulk of fibres into rope like form called a sliver. It
separates the wool out from tangles, clumps and staples and lays the
fibers parallel and formed into a fine web. Sliver wrapping is checked after
every 2 hrs.
This process is mainly done resulting to the following:

 Opening of flocks to individual fibres

 Elimination of remaining impurities (trash particles)
 Elimination of short fibres
 Untangling the fiber
 Dust removal
 High degree of longitudinal orientation of the fibres

GILLING
Gilling has three main functions:

 It aligns the fibres approximately parallel in the sliver;

 It thins down a thick sliver so that it can be handled in a spinning
frame; and,
 It blends the wool by combining several slivers into a single one.

Gilling is mainly done to
become more thinner. As
the sliver. A needle tends
material and the material
knots.
paralyze the fibre so that the fiber tends to
of this process the weight reduction occurs in
to penetrates through material it paralyses the
becomes parallel its done 5 times to remove

There are several types of gill box. However, very simply, a gill box has
two sets of rollers and the slivers are dragged from one to another through
a series of moving combs. The feed rollers pick up the slivers and the
delivery rollers rotate at a far faster speed, drawing out the combined
slivers into a thinner single sliver.
Pins are pushed into the sliver and move forward at an even speed with
the fibres to control the acceleration of the fibres between the sets of
rollers. When the pins are first thrust into the sliver, the feed rollers are still
gripping the fibres. The pins are drawn through the fibres and comb them.

COMBING
Here Worsted yarns are spun from longer (three inches and longer) fibers
that have been carded, combed and drawn. Combing machines further
straighten the Wool sliver making the individual fibers lie parallel. The
combing process also eliminates “noils” or shorter fibers which grow
mostly on the belly of the sheep. (Noils are used in the production of less
expensive woolen fabrics and for the manufacturing of felt, a non-woven
wool fabric). The wool tops created after these weigh around 8.5kg.

This process mainly tends to do the below:

  Straighten up the fibres;
 Lay the fibres parallel;
 Remove tangles (neps);
 Remove short fibres around 8
to 10%
 Remove vegetable matter.
 To lay the sliver into cans.

During the process of the wool undergoing the procedures of combing and
gilling simultaneously the PET FIBER and PET TOW undergo the same
procedure as seen in the below flow chart the procedure is done
frequently as at Raymond’s they have a motto of creating they material at
perfection.

RELIANCE – Polyster (PET)

Polyester Tow
Polyester tow can be broadly defined as a bundle of filaments that are
continuous in length. These filaments are essentially non-annealed.
The worsted mills process the polyester tow on a machine called 'Tow to
Top Converter'. This cuts the tow into variable cut length fibres in the form
of sliver.

Followed by a gilling process that yields a more uniform sliver which is

then packaged in the form of a ball called Polyester Tops.
These polyester tops are then blended with wool tops and spun to
produce polyester woolen blended yarn, which are subsequently woven
into polywool-blended fabrics.

CONVERTER
The continuous filament tow is fed to a converter and is cut into staple
form as per requirement so that it can be used to spun a staple yarn or a
sliver can be used for blending with other fiber so the tow is than
converted into a staple sliver coiled in can. These can further be used for
blending with other fibers.
 COMBING DEPARTMENT – FLOWCHART

-
Greasy wool PET Fiber PET Tow

Direct Bale Blending Carding Converter

Scouring Gilling (1) Gilling (1)

Carding
Gilling (2) Gilling (2)

Gilling (1)
Poly Bump Top Gilling (2)

Gilling (2)
Poly Bump Top

Gilling (3)

Grey Combing

Gilling (4)

Gilling (5)

Wool Bump Top

Top Dyeing

Hydro Extractor Back Washing

R. F. Dryer Opening Gilling

Defelting

Grey Combing
Grilling ( 5)
4)
 Defelting

Gilling(1)

Gilling(2)

Gilling(3)

Gilling(4)

Gilling(5)

Final Recombed Bump Top

(Delivery to Spinning
Department)
TOP DYEING PROCESS (POT DYEING MACHINE)

Dyed loose tops may have to withstand both scouring and gilling. Since these are
drastic processes, the dyes that can be used are limited to those possessing a high
degree of fastness to wet treatments. Piece dyed materials have usually only to
withstand relatively mild finishing processes, so the dyes used need not be
especially fast to wet treatments, and light and bright shades can be produced.

Brightness of shades, fastness to light and ease of application can be obtained fairly
cheaply, but bright shades possessing all-round fastness usually require more
expensive dyes which are less level dyeing and so are best applied at an earlier
stage, Piece dyeing may also be impracticable on other grounds. Thus, with heavily
milled materials, e.g. naval over coatings, piece dyeing would not give satisfactory
penetration and permanent creases might be produced, so loose wool dyeing is
necessary.

Dyeing in the loose state is also necessary for mixture yarns or cloths, although for
the latter the wool may be dyed in yarn form. When dyeing loose wool (and slubbing)
perfectly even distribution of the dye is not essential, because the subsequent
carding operation produce an even mixture of fibers, so less dyeing dyes with high
fastness to wet treatments can be used. Loose wool dyeing is preferred in case
where there is no special demand for high fastness to wet treatments.

In the dyeing procedure first the material is loaded and water is fed to the machine.
The chemicals are added and the machine runs for 10 min. Pre-dissolved dyestuff is
added and the machine runs for another 10 min.
The temp is raised to 98 ºC at the heating rate of 1.5 ºC/min. At 98 ºC after half hour
acetic acid or formic acid is added for complete exhaustion of the dyestuff. Dyeing
process is continued for another half hour. The remaining liquor is allowed to drain
the material is cooled by circulating water than the material is taken out kept for
drying and taken for color matching.
HYDROEXTRACTOR
The use of thermal energy in drying is expensive and a pre-requisite to any thermal
drying process is mechanical. The common principles involved for removing
moisture are centrifuging or suction. Hydroextractors with gliding supports can
be used for all forms of wool textiles.

R.F.DRYER

After hydroextractor, the dyed tops are sent to the Radio frequency Dryer or Back-
washing. A radio frequency heating system the RF generator creates an alternating
electric field between two electrodes. The material to be heated is conveyed
between the electrodes where the alternating energy causes polar molecules in the
material to continuously reorient them to face opposite poles much like the way bar
magnets behave in an alternating magnetic field. The friction resulting from
molecular movement causes the material to rapidly heat throughout its entire mass.

The main objective of Radio Frequency dryer is used to dry the top dyed material. It
is used for light and medium shades of polyester material and light shades of wool
after the hydroextractor. The dryer has a top plate, which acts as an electrode, and it
generates radio frequency energy, which splits the water molecules from the dyed
tops into H+, and OH-ions and they begin to oscillate. This causes evaporation of
water and drying is carried out. The speed at which the conveyor in the dryer runs is
different for both wool and PET.

Technical Inputs
For wool, speed of the conveyer is 4 m/min.
For PET, speed of the conveyer is 5 m/min.
After Hydroextractor Moisture content=6%
After RF dryer Moisture content=4% (For wool and polyester)
Hydro extractor: It is used to remove excess water.

COMPUTER COLOR MATCHING:

As the sample is ready it is taken to the sample department where the color
matching process is done. Here computer color matching system is followed
SPECTROPHOTOMETER. It is used to know the details about the fiber /fabric.
SEQUENCE FOLLOWED FOR COLOR MATCHING:

Dyeing
 Colour Matching

Approved by Deputy Manager of Dyeing

Approved by Senior Manager of Dyeing

Combing

Final combed Samples

Colour Matching

Approved by Deputy Manager of Dyeing

Approved by Senior Manager of Dyeing

Final Sample Is Checked by Dyeing General Manager (Combing) &

Senior Manager of Quality Control

Final Sample

Spinning

CENTRAL LABORATORY
The central laboratory mainly functions for all kinds of testing, both physical and
chemical. Testing of the material is done in the fibers & yarn.

DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT
Four samples are made according to the requirement and the one, which matches
the most, is sent to the party for their approval. However to cater to the needs of the
domestic market designated as civil market colour of the dyed fibers are matched
with that of the fabric.

Steps Followed

 Imported samples is checked for count, shade etc… (Generally two warp and
two weft yarns are taken)
 Accordingly four samples are prepared i.e. A, B, C, D.
 The samples, which matches with the sample sent, by the party is send back
for the approval.

DYES USED IN TOP DYEING

ACID MODERANT DYES:

These are sodium salt of sulfonic acid. They are generally applied in presence of
organic & inorganic acids. Hence they are called acid dyes. These dyes used when
good washing fastness is considered. These are mainly used for wool, silk & protein
fiber.

METAL COMPLEX DYES:

Metal complex dyes contain metal complex in their structure, hence they are called
metal complex dyes. These dyes need not required any chemical salt during
application.

In RAYMOND mills two types of metal complex dyes are used:

1) 1:2 metal complex dyes.
2) Modified metal complex dyes.

CHROME DYES:
These dyes are capable of forming co-ordinate complex with heavy metal. These
dyes are related to acid dyes but during application oleum salt are added as a
mordant. In this mill sodium bicarbonate can be used as moderating agent. These
dyes are used in wool dyeing only.

TOPS FROM COMBING DEPT.

Conditioning 24 – 48 hrs
 SPINNING

NO COUNT YES
THE
SPUN IF
FINER

Gilling 1,2,3,4 Gilling 1,2,3,4

Rubbing Rubbing
FM –7N FM –5P

Roving
Frame

Spinning Frame

Steaming

Winding

Ply Winding

SPINNING DEPARTMENT
Yarn Room

CONDITIONING ROOM:
The material from the combing department i.e. the recombed tops come to the
conditioning room. In this room, humidity and temperature are maintained. Humidity
= 85%. The tops are conditioned for 3-4 days to remove static charges in the
material. After conditioning the materials is taken for spinning process.

 To avoid flying fibers as some fibers absorb moisture, they tend to stick
together making the handling easier.
 To prevent loose fiber from combing out.
 The forces of friction are absorbed to a certain limit by the water in the fibers
avoiding damage to the parts of the machine and the fibres themselves.
  After conditioning, 4 gilling passage are given to the material.

RUBBING FRAME (FM-7N):

There are two types of rubbing frames in the spinning section i.e. FM-7N and FM-
5P. The coarser material goes to rubbing frame (FM-7N) and directly goes to the
ring frame. The finer material goes to the intermediate rubbing frame (FM-5P), then
goes to roving frame and then to the ring frame.

PROCESS SEQUENCE:
Two ends are fed to the rubbing frame and these two individual ends are wound on
the single package, which reduces material handling. The sliver is passed through
the feed rollers and through the drafting system. Drafting part is of the double apron
type. The bottom apron is plain rubber rolling along a cast iron table. Top apron is
also of the same type and the fiber control is sit weighted. As the slubbing emerges
from the nip of the rubbing rollers, each of which runs on endless leather bands,
from the rubbers the roving passes through a funnel is then wound on the bobbin.

RUBBING FRAME (FM 5P):

It is a modern machine that eliminates the intermediate fly frame maching. The
object of this frame is to deliver the slivers of less wrapping by drafting.

ADVANTAGES OF INTERMEDIATE RUBBING FRAME (FM 5P)

 The delivered material is in the sliver form; it can be collected in cans. So
winding & twisting are eliminated.
 Due to zero twist in the sliver, fly frame runs at a higher speed
ROVING
The finer material is passed through the roving frame from which the roving is fed to
the ring frame. Before the roving frame the finer material is passed through
intermediate rubbing frame FM5.

PROCESS SEQUENCE
The sliver from the can is passed over the guide & then through the drafting system.
The drafting system comprises of 2/2 (2 over 2) system as shown in the figure. The
slivers are passed through the draft system taking care that a small tuft project
beyond the draft roller. Delivery container is place between the draft apron and the
front roller. Then the roving is passed through the hollow flyer arm and through the
pressing finger on the bobbin. On the roving frame BM 14 there is an automatic
cycle which consists of:

 Auto resting i.e. the winding up variation and programmer.

 Positioning the flyer for easier removal of the bobbin.
 Forming a reverse of the roving for picking up of the new bobbin.
 Separating the bobbin from the spindles so as to remove them from the
machine.

RING SPINNING

Objective of Ring Frame

  To draft the roving into a yarn of specified fineness as indicated by the count
no.
 To insert sufficient twist in the yarn to bind the fibres together so that it can
withstand the strain in later processes.
 To wind the twisted fibres on a bobbin to form a compact package.

MAXIMUM SPINDLES SPEED IS FOUND BY USING THE FOLLOWING

FORMULAE:

Spindle speed (rpm) = Traveller Speed (Inch/min.)

Ring Dia (inch) X 60 X80

STEAMING
To allow stress and relaxing and twist setting in the yarn. So the bundle of fiber is
twisted about its longitudinal axis. Due to its elastic nature it set back and thus
becomes live which can snarl when tension is released. So, by steaming at high
temperature these tensional forces are neutralized and yarn is heat set so that it can
be processed without trouble.
For steaming, ring bobbins are kept in an aluminum trolley and placed in an
autoclave as per yarn quality.

AUTOWINDING

 Removal of yarn faults such as thin and thin

places and to improve the yarn quality and
subsequently reduce yarn breakages.
 Rewinding of ring frame bobbins to a larger
package, which is useful for further processing.
 QUALITY CHECK
Four bobbins from each machine are taken and checked for X% and wrapping. For
wrapping 1 meter of roving is taken. Along with this TPM is also checked. By
stretching the rove between the two points, it is required that fiber must be separated
or come out without applying high tension. This is the sign as that required and
optimum twist X% is between 4.0-4.2%

Textile Engineer
performing Quality
Check.

PLY WINDING
As at least two parallel yarns are required at TFO for twisting and winding package
has only a single end. At ply winding the two or more single yarns are taken from
those many numbers of package and are wound on a package, which can be fed to
Two For One Twister(TFO).

TWO FOR ONE TWISTER

AT YARN STAGE
 To improve the evenness.
 To improve the strength and elongations.
 To improve buster and abrasion resistance

AT FABRIC STAGE
 To obtain higher stability against wear.
 To obtain improvement in the fabric roller.
 To obtain good handle and visual characteristic.
YARN ROOM

After twisting & steaming, the yarn from the spinning department comes to the yarn
room. The object of the yarn room is: -

 To store the yarn.

 To note the necessary data about the stored yarn.
 To provide warp yarn for warping.
 To provide weft yarn for weaving.
 To store the remnants of the weaving department.

ACTIVITIES CARRIED OUT IN THE YARN ROOM

After spinning & doubling the yarn, the PPD department & yarn room in charge
checks the yarn particulars. Only the correct yarn is given entry in the yarn room
according to the correct shade no., lot no. Etc. The yarn is weighed & entered in the
computer.

There are in all 7 bins for storing the yarn. The yarn bundles are kept on the trolleys
& the trolleys are kept in a particular bin. The humidity in the yarn room is the same
as in TFO twister. The quantity of yarn required for warping is given to the yarn room
by the warping section. The yarn is weighed and a receipt is given to the yarn room.
For the warp yarn a white dispatch receipt is used while for the loom shed a yellow
dispatch receipt is used. A total of 300 – 400 kg of yarn is to be sent to the warping
section.
WEAVING DEPARTMENT

WARPING
Warping is carried out to convert the predetermined package such as a cone or
cheese into a sheet of yarn of specified length and width. This process is done to
convert cheese cones into weaver beams. Weaver Beams are particularly used in
warping process.

MATERIAL HANDLING
Trolleys to warping department carry the cheese or cones, which are taken from
yarn room as per requirements. After reeling and when beam is produced it is
carried on a trolley and stored in the department. Only the remaining packages are
again carried to yarn room by trolleys and are stored there.

Individual ends in the warp are uniformly spaced across the spaced width. Warping
can be done in 2 ways.
1. Sectional Warping.
2. Direct Beam Warping

In RAYMOND (Worsted mill), sizing operation is omitted, as all the yarns are
doubled and have got a good resistance and are strong sufficiently. To get
resistance wax is applied at warping. There are some another advantages of doing
sectional warping, which are followed here over beam warping.

 Space required is less as compared to beam warping.

 Yarn breakages can be easily located.
 Time required is less due to the less no. Of ends.
 Fancy structures like rib; stripes etc. can be produced in the cloth.

For e.g. in sectional warping, if we want to produce a beam of 4000 ends then 10
sections each of 400 ends can be made so as to get the required total of 4000 ends.

DRAWING IN
In weaving, it is necessary to space the warp threads properly in order to get the
required compactness of the cloth. This is affected by passing the warp yarn through
the dents of the reed of appropriate count so that the cloth woven from the warp may
contain the required no. of threads. Passing the warp threads through the drop wires
9warp stop motion), a process known as “DRAWING IN” carries out heald wires and
the dents of the reed.
WEAVING PROCESS
Weaving is the basic department for preparing a fabric by interlacement of warp and
weft yarns. There are various looms for weaving available in the textile industry. In
RAYMONDS LTD., there are two types of looms- projectile (SULZER RUTI) and
rapier looms (RIGID DORNIER/
FLEXIBLE NP)
About 31000 meters of linear fabric is produced per day. There are total 112 looms
working in three shifts. That means each loom is producing about 92 meters of fabric
per shift. The number of machines according to make model and loom speed as
given below:

SULZER-RUTI
The Sulzer- Ruti i.e. projectile looms Are used for producing medium weight and
heavier fabric such as trovin, supphire etc. while rapier looms are used for light
weight and finer fabrics of finer count upto 150 Nm. Raymond produces a wide
range of suit fabric so it requires such a peculiar combination.

The robust, practical, technologically advanced machine design has several key
advantages:

• Gentle yarn handling - outstanding fabric quality

• Low weft wastage - substantial cost savings
• Short style-setting times - higher productivity
• Less maintenance - higher efficiency

RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE

In Rapier looms, the weft insertion element resembles a rapier or a thin bladed
straight sword; hence the name Rapier Weaving. There are many varieties of Rapier
systems such as single, double, flexible, rigid, and telescopic and two phases. A
Rapier in its simplest form consists of a single rigid bar, solid or telescopic and a
device called gripper head screwed at its feed end. Here the control over the weft is
positive during the whole pick insertion cycle. The rapier may be also be of the
rigidrod type or flexible, made of metal or plastic tapes. Flexible tapes invariably
need guide meters inside the shed which emerge during the pick insertion and sink
back into the sley before beat-up. The Rigid rapiers which include telescopic type
remain suspended from the fulcrum and may get help from right upper warp sheet.

FEATURES OF RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE

 Electronically controlled weft tensioner reduces the yarn tension especially
during insertion.
 Automatic package switching device prevents the machine from being
stopped in the even weft break between the package and weft feed. The
weavers can repair the fault while the machine is running and reactivate the
unit that has been stopped.
 Electronically controlled warp let-off and cloth take up units ensure a high
degree of fabric regularity and prevents all kinds of start and stop marks.
 Grippers are redesigned to ensure better clamping of the yarn and prevent
rubbing against the warp yarns.
 Electronic monitoring control systems have simplified the communication with
the machine and facilitated its easy handling by any one concerned with the
operation of the machine.

FABRIC DYEING DEPARTMENT

FLOWCHART OF THE DEPARTMENT - PIECE DYEING

GREY PERCHING AND MENDING

 PIECE DYEING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

STENTERING

PERCHING

FINISHING

GREY PERCHING AND MENDING:

After weaving, the fabric is to be taken for perching to find out the faults like broken
ends, picks, floats etc. These faults are then rectified on the mending machine.

GENERAL INFORMATION
No. of tables for perching and mending: 2
No. of workers for perching and mending : 1/machine

PIECE DYEING
The fabric after grey perching and mending is taken for dyeing process. In this mill,
there are various piece dyeing machineries to dye the fabric. These machineries are
as follows:

JET DYEING MACHINE

They are four types of Jet Dyeing Machines in Raymonds
 Brazzoli jet dyeing m/c
 Sanjay jet dyeing m/c
 Antares jet dyeing m/c.
 Calico jet dyeing m/c

There are two types of piece dyeing:

 Open width form: Beam dyeing and Jigger dyeing
 Rope form: Over flow m/c

In the case of open width form, piece is moving while in the rope form, both the
piece and the liquor are moving and in the case of the jet overflow dyeing, the liquor
is stationary and the piece is circulating.

JET DYEING MACHINE

BRAZZOLI JET DYEING MACHINE:

In Raymonds, there is one Brazzoli dyeing m/c, which is used to dye all wool and
poly wool only. Here acid dyes, metal complex dyes and chrome dyes are used for
all wool whereas disperse dyes are used for polyester only.
The fabric piece has to be stitched together and fed to the machine. After completion
the dyeing, the pieces are unstitched, collected in a trolley and then carried to the
next machine i.e. rope opener and hydro extractor.

Technical Inputs

Speed of Cloth : 60m/min

Loading Capacity : 300kg.
Volume : 3000-4500lt.

PROCESS:
In this process, before feeding the material into the machine all the required
chemicals are mixed in the side tank as per requirement and stir it very well with the
help of stirrer. Then material starts to feed into the machine that is called batching of
material. During batching insert into the machine and the material in chemical for 10
min. at room temp. Meanwhile take all the required dyes in dissolution tank and
dissolve it by constant stirring. After that insert the prepared dye into the machine
and start the program. There are various program numbers that are done for
different type of material at different temp.

SANJAY JET DYEING MACHINE:

There are four jet dyeing machines in Raymonds mill, which are used to dye All-
wool, poly-wool and sometimes poly-viscose too. The process carried ouy on Sanjay
jet dyeing machine is same as Brazzoli jet dyeing machine. But the program
numbers for different qualities are different. These are as follows:

M:L RATIO 1:14

WEIGHT OF THE MATERIAL 150 Kg
VOLUME OF LIQUOR 2400 lt

ANTARES JET DYEING MACHINE:

This machine is same as Sanjay jet dyeing machine only with the difference as:

M:L RATIO 1:12

WEIGHT OF THE MATERIAL 150 Kg
VOLUME OF LIQUOR 2200 lt

CALICO JET DYEING MACHINE:

This machine is generally used for dyeing polyester part of a blend. The M:L Ratio
used is 1:9. This machine consists of a venturi effect.
BEAM DYEING MACHINE
The fabric to be dyed has to be wound on the beam, which is done on batching
machine. So batching is the preparatory process for beam dyeing.

BATCHING MACHINE:
Batching machine carries two functions:
• LOADING
• UNLOADING

LOADING
In loading, a perforated stainless steel beam is placed on its stand, which is rotated;
in clockwise direction and the fabric is wrapped o it. The grey finished fabric that is to
be dyed is first passed over various guide rollers in fully open width and then through
the trough containing boiling solution of the wetting agent, which decreases the
water repellency of the grey fabric and improve its absorbency. The fabric to be dyed
is then stitched with about 5-10 m of cotton fabric. Then it is inserted in the beam
dyeing machine.

UNLOADING
After dyeing, the beam is taken out and it is then unloaded in the trolley to follow the
further process. The fabric to be dyed is stitched with about 5-10 m of cotton fabric
which serves the following functions:
• If the fabric is directly wound on the beam we will get the impression of
the beam on the bottom layers of the fabric with dark spot.
• The grey cotton fabric acts as a filter for the dye liquor and thus
protects the inside fabric from uneven dyeing.

JIGGER DYEING MACHINE

This machine is most suitable for dyeing of poly-viscose fabric where hot dyes are
used for dyeing. It is also suitable for dyeing of cellulosic material because the dyes
generally don’t exhaust well and the jigger works with an exceedingly low liquor
ratio. This machine consists of a trough (stainless steel) above which two rollers are
mounted.
In Raymond’s woolen mill, there are two types of jigger machines:
• Open jigger machine
• Closed jigger machine
In both the jigger machines, the cloth to be dyed is wound in the open width on one
of the rollers. About 450-600 m of cloth can be dyed at a time. The pieces of the
cloth (about two pieces) are stitched at a time at the two ends of the batch of the
cloth. These are called end pieces. The batch is unwound around small guide rollers
and wound on the other rollers. The dye solution is placed in the trough, which is
provided with the means of heating (closed or perforated steam pipes) as well as
water inlet and outlet tubes.
FINISHING

CHECK ROOM
The check room is provided to check the fabric structure and faults in the fabric
according to the piece tick to pass further. The fabric width which is less than 10mm
of the reed length is tolerated. A Max half hour is required to check the sample. If
any fault occurs in the fabric then a memo is send to the quality control department.
Workers: 3 workers/shift (3 shift) 1 in-charge of the check room.

MENDING & PERCHING

After weaving the Fabric, it is to be mended & perched before finishing. In the
mending section, mendable faults like broken end, picks, floats etc. are
rectified. After mending & perching, the fabric is sent to the grey house where
the finishing processes start. There are 153 tables for mending & 6 machines
for perching. In 1 shift, one piece is mended per table.

FINISHING PROCEDURE AFTER DYEING

Textile finishing is a term used for a series of processes to which all bleached,
minted & certain grey fabric are subjected before they are put in the market.
Finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric.

Objective
Finishing processes are carried are carried out to improve the natural properties of
the fabric. The primary object of finishing is to enhance the quality of the cloth,
imparting the woven fabric a specific appearance a specific appearance & handle in
order to make it attractive.

The finishing department receives the fabric from the fabric dyeing department. The
processes of the finishing treatment differs according to the blends, shades etc.
Finishing is carried out in two ways:

BRUSHING
The material either from weaving section or from dyeing section comes to the dry
finishing section for finishing purpose. For this material has to be through the
brushing machine first.
Objective
The fabric is in the grey condition before finishing and to remove the dust particles
from the fabric, it is passed through a brushing machine. Brushing can also be
termed as raising. Raising or brushing can be carried out to raise fibres surface
termed as “PILLS”. Generally, the fabric is in the grey condition before finishing and
to remove the dust particles from the fabric, it is passed through a brushing machine.
In this machine, the fabric is passed through the brush rollers.
The distinctive feature given to the cloth by raising is:
• Fibrous surface.
• Increased softness and fullness of handle..
• Concealment of the threads and weave effects.
• Subduing of the colours.
• Softening the outline of the pattern in figured styles.

STENTER
The stenter can be used for heat setting, drying and resin treatment. Before passing
the fabric through the heating chamber, it is passed through a tank containing water
and a softener. Pins on the conveyor grip the fabric properly before entering into the
chamber. The drying chamber is heated by 10 coils. There are 10 blower fans to
enhance the drying operation. Suction is provided for extracting the moisture. For
heat setting, the temperature of the chamber is kept about 185ºC and for drying it is
around 140ºC.

After hydro extraction of the fabric, it remains about 30% moisture. If this type of
fabric is taken for perching and mending, then it will be very difficult to search very
small defects from the fabric surface and will be very difficult to rectify certain
defects. Hence stentering must be carried out to dry the fabric 100%. Stentering of
the fabric is carried out on stenters only.

ADVANTAGES
• Imparting dimensional stability.
• Reducing tendency to creasing.
• Improving resistance to pilling.
• Achieving level dyeing and eliminating stain in the fabric.

INSPECTION
Before dry finishing, the fabric is semi-inspected i.e., the faults in the fabric are
mended after wet finishing. There are 3 perching machine in the wet section. The
machine used for inspection is known as perch. Perching consists of examining the
cloth and marking with colored chalks. All imperfection should be eliminated in
subsequent processes. The modern perch is designed so that the operator may give
the cloth careful and through inspection with minimum efforts. The machine that is
controlled either by a foot switch that can either start or stop the cloth instantly. The
cloth passes before the operator at full width and free of wrinkles.

Inspection is made in two ways:

• The goods between the light and the inspection examining against the
light.
• Inspecting the surface of the goods only, with light on the goods. The
importance has been given to perching for inspection purpose much more
commonly and regularly in Raymond’s mill.

DRY FINISHING

SHEARING
The object of shearing is to remove protruding fibres from the cloth surface and to
even out or level the fibre or neps which has been previously been rose. The amount
of fiber to be cut from the surface of the fabric depends on the type of finish desired.
This dry finishing operation is used on all woolen and worsted goods. The general
aim of shearing is to clear the surface of the cloth of surplus fibre and thereby bring
out certain characteristics such as the design or colour pattern. Shearing is the most
important process in the dry finishing department. This process makes further
process very easier and imparts goods sharpness on the surface.
There are three shearing machines in Raymond’s mill in the dry finishing section.

RELAXING
It is the process of artificially altering the moisture content of the fabric. In variably
consist of addition of water in the form of liquid or vapor. Most of the textile fabric
can be plasticized by the presence of water vapour and unless they are so
plasticized, most dry mechanical finishers are relatively ineffective. As the physical
properties of the entire textile material varies largely with moisture content of the
fabric. It is very important that conditioning and damping of the fabric should receive
attention before the fabric is subjected to an mechanical operation which depends
on the pressure, friction and other forms of slight deformation for the material for its
effect. It is done by blowing steam to the fabric.
It is carried out for the following reasons:
• To bring the material to commercial standard regain.
• To improve fabric quality by eliminating stain and improving the handle.
DAMPING
Damping is done for steaming and wetting purpose at 100ºC. The fabric is in the dry
condition. To make it moist and smooth damping is carried out. Speed of the
machine is 15-20 m/min. In the damping machine steam is passed to the drum
through the valve wrapper. Tension is adjusted for different qualities of the material.
It is necessary to wind the fabric on the cylinder i.e. selvedge to selvedge.

In Raymond’s mill there are two types of pressing machines:

1 NIKKI PRESS
2 ROTARY PRESS

The aim of pressing is to give the fabric the smoother and brighter surface, with
some degree of performance and this is done by subjecting the fabric to the strong
compression against a polish and heating surface.
Object of pressing are aesthetic and partly commercial. Many times the finishing
operation disturbs the surface of the yarn and the fabric. The unevenness and the
impurities cannot be reduce till it is blown and pressed. Pressing can be considered
as mild treatment.

The three physical factors which are involved in pressing are temperature, pressure
and time. Pressing of woolen and worsted material is applied to all clear cut finishers
in order to make them firm, smooth and slide.
The individual yarns are flattened and wild fibres are compressed into the texture of
the material. There is thus increased smoothness, luster and due to this an improve
reflection of light, resulting in better of the details of weave design.
Pressing can be considered as mild, mainly cohesive setting treatment. In
Raymond’s pressing is carried out on Nikki press machine and Rotary press
machine. Nikki press machine is more advantageous then Rotary press machine.
On Nikki press m/c we can press 4 types of the fabric at a time. Here we can press
the material of different shades, different qualities etc. But in case of Rotary press
m/c, we can press 1 piece at a time.
In Nikki press machine a particular fabric is pressed for 5 times.

ADVANTAGES OF NIKKI PRESS:

1 Reflection of light is improved.
2 Creases are removed.
3 Fabric is flattened.
4 Good displays of weave and design are observed.

ROTARY PRESS:
This is also a pressing machine. The fabric is passed in between the gap of the steel
plate and roller by which a shiny appearance is imparted to the fabric.

SUPERFINISH
This machine is used to give special type of shine and luster to the fabric. Here
temperature, pressure and steam are maintained according to the quality of the
fabric. So, decatising process also occurs in this machine. After passing the fabric at
required temperature the fabric is collected in a trolley and then taken for folding.
FINAL PERCHING (GRADING)
Faults are classified in final perching. If there are more faults in the material it is sent
to the mending and perching section where the faults are mended and the fabric
undergoes final perching. Grades like A, B, C etc are given to the fabric depending
on the number of faults, tries etc.
The following is a classification of the grades:
GRADE “A”
1 Thick weft and uneven yarn
2 Broken picks
3 Loose twists
4 Single end floats
5 Broken ends

GRADE “B”
1 Dobby Mistake
2 Two Wrong ends
3 Let-off Bars
4 Double light ends
5 Tight weft bars

GRADE “C”
1 Shaft holds
2 Yarn abrasions
3 3-4 Wrong ends
4 Prominent section marks
5 Shade bar

GRADE “D”
1 All damages
2 Chemical damages
3 Mildew

FOLDING
The fully finished fabric from the finishing department is being folded in the folding
department. The folding of the fabric is carried out according to the requirements of
the civil and exports market.
FLOW CHART FOR THE FOLDING OF FINISHED GOODS

MEASURING

FOLDING

CUTTING

SELVEDGE STAMPING

WEIGHING

HAND ROLLING

TOP END STAMPING

PASSING

COMPUTER DELIVERY

PACKING

WAREHOUSE
 FLOW CHART FOR THE FOLDING OF EXPORT GOODS

MEASURING

TUBE ROLLING

WEIGHING

PASSING

DELIVERY

PACKING

WAREHOUSE

CENTRAL LABORATORY
RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT
In R & D various tests are performed for the testing of dyes (Disperse dyes, acid
dyes and metal complex dyes). Chemical oil and detergents used in the Raymond
Ltd. The report of these tests is send to the stores and concerned department.
Raymond’s believes in giving the best material in the market so they put a lot of cost
and the best of technology in R & D.

QUALITY CONTROL
Quality control is an ongoing process, which starts right from the initial stages of
fiber or yarn right upto finishing & final packing of the fabric.

OBJECTIVES
• Setting up standards by which strict quality check-up can be maintained.
• Co-ordination with departmental people for ensuring quality standards.
• Implementation of quality standards among the departments.
• To take preventive measures for maintaining the quality
• Along with all the above functions, to provide the management with
production of high quality or with defects within the tolerance limit.

QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM IN DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS.

COMBING:

1. Fineness testing (micron)

2. Length
3. %Grease
4. Foreign matter
5. Moisture content at different stages
6. Oil + total fatty matter (TFM)
7. Neps
8. Blend composition
9. Unevenness% (u %)
SPINNING:
• Testing of sliver, roving, yarn for evenness
• Twist testing (TPM)
• Count testing (Nm)
• Moisture content testing
• Single yarn strength testing
• Lea strength testing
• Hairiness testing

WEAVING:
• Detection of faults usually on a running loom
• EPI & PPI in a grey fabric
• Study the causes for loom stoppage in different quality materials.
• Detection of faults like missing ends, missing picks, curly selvedges, temple
marks & cuts, floats, wrong denting. Mending of all theses faults is done in the
perching department.

DYEING:
• Approving the shade by visual checking 1st & then with the help of computer
colour matching.
• Identification of visual faults in a piece dyed fabric on a perching table &
retreating the fabric to remove the faults.
• Checking the dyed fabric for washing fastness, light fastness, sublimation test
(only for polyester material) etc.

FINISHING:
• Width of the full finished fabric.
• Weight of fabric per sq. meter.
• Weight of fabric per linear meter.
• Piling test.
• Drape coefficient of fabric.
• Tensile strength testing.
• Seam slippage test.
• Washing & ironing test.
• Blend composition.
• Water repellence, oil repellence.
• Flame redundancy.

All the tests carried out in the quality control department help in giving the fabric an
optimum quality as desired. They have the right to alter a particular process & take
corrective measures in order to get an optimum quality fabric.

KAIZEN - Raymonds
Kaizen is a Japanese term that means continuous improvement, taken from words
'Kai' means continuous and 'zen' means improvement.

Raymonds Ltd has roped in Japanese management consultant Kaizen Institute for
revamping operations at its various manufacturing units. Kaizen is currently working
on business process improvement projects at the company's textiles and files & tools
units.

The company has introduced the Kaizen programme in other units as well. Kaizen's
founder Masaaki Imai has is flyed down from Japan to visit Raymond's units for
monitoring the progress of the projects.

The programme, expected to run for atleast one year, is mainly targeted at the
middle-level employees. The programme starts with a workshop for 4-5 days that
identifies some major problems and their root causes. Methods are, then, worked
out to eliminate the root causes through discussions with employees. Kaizen's India
office in Mumbai is coordinating the programme for Raymond.

The projects have so far produced results where it's been tried. It has helped to
reduce cycle time at the Thane textile unit. The programme has resulted in inventory
reduction at the company's Chinchwada textile unit in Maharashtra.

Kaizen is a culture of sustained continuous improvement focusing on eliminating

waste in all systems and processes of an organisation. The Kaizen strategy begins
and ends with people. With Kaizen, an involved leadership guides people to
continuously improve their ability to meet expectations of high quality, low cost and
on-time delivery. Kaizen transforms companies into “Superior Global
Competitors”.

Kaizen's process improvement programme is mainly implemented in strategically

important area. It mainly takes into account data for arriving at solutions. It covers
concepts such as total quality control, productive maintenance, zero defects, small-
group activities and productivity improvement.
 CONCLUSION

I would like to conclude my project with a sense of satisfaction that whatever

knowledge I have gained in this semester of my curriculum can be indeed used in the real life
situation and enhanced my view at looking towards things in a wider perspective, of-course
the in –depth analysis has to be done in the classrooms, but the report writing gives the
student, a chance to know him about the latest developments in the concerned field. The
project not only imparted me the practical knowledge but also gave me an idea of working in
an organization with perfect teamwork. I came to know about a fact that I like to share with
the reader

“All men like to think they can do it alone, but a real man knows there’s no substitute
for support, encouragement or a crew.”

It makes the student use his theoretical knowledge in practice and gives human insight into
the working of a firm.

Personally, my own opinion is that such type of report writing should be included as a part of
curriculum for all other courses.

Last but not the least I would like to thank all the concerned staff of Mithibai College and the
management of Raymond Textiles and would like to thank personally Mr. Pradeep Nair for
his contribution to make the project success.

Although meticulous care has been taken to check the mistakes and misprints, yet it is
difficult to claim perfection. In conclusion, constructive suggestions are Welcomed.

“Great successes are built on taking your negatives & turning them around.”

Mr. Bhavin Mehta.