The Computer Aided Design and Computer Aided Manufacturing are the modern

innovative technology in garments manufacturing like all other manufacturing

sectors. Garments CAD is specially used for pattern designing and marker making.
On the other hand CAM is used for fabric cutting and other manufacturing sections.
Before implementing those new technologies, manual system was widely used in
garments sector. In recent time some large garments factories of Bangladesh are
starting to adopt CAD and CAM technology. Beside that a huge number of medium
and small size factories are using manual system yet. This paper presents a
feasibility study of CAD and CAM technology in above mentioned different size
factories in Bangladesh. The Study is carried out in respect of production
procedure, required man power, production/hr, product quality, production
efficiency, and production cost. The practical investigation and data shows the
scenario that all types of garments industries are not capable to use CAD & CAM

and also not even profitable for them

Garments Industries in our country is facing the challenge of export of their

products in the world market. The market has become very competitive and it is
very hard for the poor countries to survive in the quota free market. Efficient
management and proper business strategies can produce quality production in
minimal time and costs. Computerization is a tool to achieve this goal which
allows the best use of the information to make future plans. Our intension is to
help the garments industries of our country by using proper use of computer
technology. As a reference subject we visited a garments factory named Knit
Concern Group. But we found that Knit Concern Group is using a proper
computerization system for production and inventory management system.
Most of the works are carried out in pen and paper as well as computerized
method. This is fasting of their operations and errors are removed frequently.
Most of the time, they are using various types of software which help to

improve efficiency of their working management. The current situation is very

modern in the Knit Concern Group in case of computerizations.

Computer-aided design (CAD), also known as computer-aided drafting and

design (CADD), is the use of computer technology for the process of design and
design-documentation. Computer Aided Drafting describes the process of
drafting with a computer. CADD software, or environments, provides the user
with input-tools for the purpose of streamlining design processes; drafting,
documentation, and manufacturing processes. CADD output is often in the form
of electronic files for print or machining operations. The development of
CADD-based software is in direct correlation with the processes it seeks to
economize; industry-based software (construction, manufacturing, etc.)
typically uses vector-based (linear) environments whereas graphic-based
software utilizes raster-based (pixelated) environments.

CADD environments often involve more than just shapes. As in the manual
drafting of technical and engineering drawings, the output of CAD must convey
Information, such as materials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according
to application-specific conventions.

Computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) is the use of computer

software to control machine tools and related machinery in the
manufacturing of work pieces. This is not the only definition for
CAM, but it is the most common; CAM may also refer to the use of a
computer to assist in all operations of a manufacturing plant,
including planning, management, transportation and storage. Its
primary purpose is to create a faster production process and
components and tooling with more precise dimensions and material
consistency, which in some cases, uses only the required amount of
raw material (thus minimizing waste), while simultaneously reducing
energy consumption.
CAM is a subsequent computer-aided process after computer-aided
design (CAD) and sometimes computer-aided engineering (CAE), as
the model generated in CAD and verified in CAE can be input into
CAM software, which then controls the machine tool.

Today every coming generation is more fashion conscious so there is

huge demand for new-fangled weave designs. With these conditions
designers have difficulty in keeping pace with the fast changing
trends of the market. Sometimes they find that they are not ready to
cater the market needs. It is not easy to them to remain competitive,
by merely depending upon the traditional way of designing, because
todays design becomes out of fashion tomorrow. Hence they loose a
share of market, so to keeping pace with fast shifting trends of market
computer aided designing and manufacturing is very much required.

It is well known phenomenon that human being is always in search of

opportunities related to saving money, time and comfort. Any textile
industry will think in terms of improving the efficiency, maximum
utilization of resources and improvement in services for customers
satisfaction. Search of these elements leads towards development and
use of new technologies. As the proverb says Creativity is one
percent inspiration and ninety-nine per cent perspiration. but
computers have confirm it wrong. They have made textile designing
simpler, faster, more precise and enjoyable. The designer can create
his motifs with a mouse or pen. Once the design is created, further
process of editing the design i.e. clipping of certain parts, adding new
shapes, changing the shapes, distortion, resizing, recolouration, color
reduction, replicating and combining as per the need can be done at
the minimum possible time. Also, one part of design can be altered
without affecting the rest.

The other benefit is its wide application in different types of fabric

designing. CAD system can be effectively used for designing Suiting/
Shirting, Sarees, Furnishing and Upholstery Fabrics, Blankets, Terry
Towel, Carpet, Labels, Knitwear, Bed Covers, Velvet and other.
Various complicated weaves can be made easily, one need not to
worry about the complicated drafting and peg plans, and the effect of
supposed weave can be seen immediately before actual production.

Shorter design time

Database availability
New capabilities
Example: Focus more on product ideas
Improved product quality
Reduced P

Higher Productivity
Reduced Design Time
More Accurate Designs
Less Time Required for Modifications
Repeatability
Precise
3D detailed drawing
Computerized model to scale
Test without having to produce it
Drawings are device independent
You can resize easily by using calculation
More economical and efficient
Smaller files than bitmapped images
Easier to see the characteristics
You can see the image in animation so you can get the feeling
of it without having to build it the advantages are that fast
smooth quick works fine.

CAM Advantage: Very fast setup of machinery for large volume

production runs.

1: Difficulty keeping track of changes when many people are working

on drawings for a project (Revision Control).
2: Protecting your ideas is difficult when you must share your
drawings with customers and contractors, but you need input about
design questions (Intellectual Property).
3: Sharing your drawings with other companies who may not be using
the
same
CAD
programs.
1: Potential for wasted parts and materials due to inaccurate CAD.
2: Machinery can break down, halting production.

Devices performing high-tech services in the apparel industry are commonly

referred to as CAD/CAM. In the apparel industry, CAD systems are mainly
used in various processes such as garment design, pattern preparation, pattern
grading and marker making. CAM systems include computerised sewing
machines, fabric spreading & cutting systems, and mover systems used during
the sewing process of apparel production.
While computerised sewing machines, spreading systems, cutting machines
and mover mechanisms provide a highly technological support during the
production phase, CAD systems are extensively used during the preproduction
phase, which is labour-intensive .

During the design and production phases, CAD/CAM systems indirectly

improve the productivity and efficiency of companies by contributing to the
integration and automation processes. CAD/CAM constitutes the technological
infrastructure of the concept of CIM, which has been described as the factory
of the future.

Cad fabric spreader

Optical

Cad/cam
Cad laser cutting

CAD

fabric

machine

cutter

Cad fusing machine

CAD is an important industrial art extensively used in many

applications, including automotive, shipbuilding, and aerospace
industries, industrial and architectural design, prosthetics, and many
more.
CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-dimensional
(2D) space; or curves, surfaces, and solids in three-dimensional (3D)
objects.
CAD is also widely used to produce computer animation for special
effects in movies, advertising and technical manuals. The modern
ubiquity and power of computers means that even perfume bottles and
shampoo dispensers are designed using techniques unheard of by
engineers of the 1960s. Because of its enormous economic
importance, CAD has been a major driving force for research in
computational geometry, computer graphics (both hardware and
software), and discrete differential geometry.
The design of geometric models for object shapes, in particular, is
often called computer-aided geometric design (CAGD).

Besides CAD software is use for pattern making, pattern designing

and grading. This system contains fully automatic patterns design,
formula Patterns design & free design. The automatic & formula
design model can automatically grade. The graded pattern can be
modified in patterns system without grading again. Reading graded
patterns by digitizer, point grading, line grading, modify patterns and
so on.
Some used are describe in below-

The digitizing software enables you to digitize complete models,

single pieces or only partial lines or curves. Once data is entered, it is
readily available in cad.assyst. There are no restrictions or sequences
to follow -- digitizing direction, number of points or other
conventions is flexible and simple, which frees you to concentrate on
more critical work.

One of the system's important strengths is its ease of use. You will
appreciate the professional, familiar tools the software provides.
Functions, data, and process-enabled steps are easily identifiable
through the friendly and intuitive interface. "Smart" information about
the piece and its relationship to other pieces, styles and markers is
readily available through powerful underlying data-storage
capabilities. cad.assyst detects user errors early, preventing loss of
time and profit.

With the cad.assyst quality control features, you can use any
measurement function while using other modification functions to
calculate measurements easily and quickly. Powerful features like
pattern mirroring streamline the development process.

Assyst-Bullmer Inc. offers you the option to choose the type of

grading you prefer. You can grade using standard x/ y and distance
grading within rule tables. Or you can take advantage of our powerful,
integrated functionality that enables visual, direct modifications to
pattern shapes on individual sizes. All modifications are automatically
recorded in the grade table. There are no size display limitations.
Piece grading is automatically recalculated whenever a piece is
modified, scaled, mirrored, rotated or split. Using the flexible measure
grading function, you can easily measure and compare the graded
lines and curves of multiple pieces.

10

In the garments section cam software is used in widely process. Some

uses are given below Speed up the development process by providing tested, proven
development paradigms.
Reusing design patterns helps to prevent subtle issues that can
cause major problems, and it also improves code readability for
coders and architects who are familiar with the patterns.
Design patterns provide general solutions, documented in a
format that doesn't require specifics tied to a particular problem.
In addition, patterns allow developers to communicate using
well-known, well understood names for software interactions.
Common design patterns can be improved over time, making
them more robust than ad-hoc designs
A standard solution to a common programming problem enable
large scale reuse of S/W

11

Garments Industries in our country is facing the challenge of export of their

products in the world market. The market has become very competitive and it
is very hard for the poor countries to survive in the quota free market. Efficient
management and proper business strategies can produce quality production in
minimal time and costs. Computerization is a tool to achieve this goal which
allows the best use of the information to make future plans.

intension is

to help the garments industries of our country by using proper use of

computer technology.

Current system has many problems. In this

section we discuss those

problems
Production section of the

is doing the work manually.

All the works are carried out in pen and paper.

Sometimes administrator cannot get proper information about the product.
Buyers cannot place the order easily.
This system is not efficient and takes long time
The goal of our project is to make the entire system efficient and user friendly
to the product manager and administrator. The objectives focusing on our
attempt are mainly concerned
To increase the flexibility of the administrator, agents and buyers.
Making the system faster than the present system.
To eliminate the paper work of the agent.
To facilitate the Administrator so that he can easily access product
information from anywhere.
To reduce complexity of the production section.
To reduce physical labor of the personnel

12

 To reduce workers

Early engineering drawings were often works of art. Like contemporary

penmanship, this is a skill that few retain. Permanent drawings were often
made with ink. An initial drawing was done using a pencil, T- square, triangles,
scales, irregular (French) curves and drawing instruments such as compasses
and dividers. Early drafting text books spent pages describing how to sharpen
pencils and how to hold them to obtain an even line.
Once the pencil drawing was done, a sheet of tracing cloth would be tacked or
taped over the original drawing. Each line would then be copied using pen and
ink. Particular attention was always paid to lettering on the drawing. Over the
years, various templates and other devices were introduced that enabled
drafters to produce consistent quality lettering. Perhaps the most commonly
used device was the Leroy Lettering Set manufactured by Keuffel & Esser. The
set consisted of several templates of various sizes and a pen device that
followed the shape of the letter in the template and reproduced that character
in ink on the drawing. The company sold a variety of templates with different
fonts.

Another major advance was a device called a Universal Drafting Machine as

shown in Figure

This device basically combined the T-square, triangles,

scales and protractor. It enabled the drafter to create perpendicular lines at

any orientation. Among the manufacturers were Universal Drafting Machine
Company, Frederick Post, Bruning, and Keuffel & Esser. The latter two are of
particular interest in that they subsequently attempted to develop CAD system
businesses selling mid-priced systems. Both lettering templates and drafting
machines are still sold today although it may be hard to find a local dealer.

13

Figure
Universal Drafting Machine

Eventually, different engineering disciplines developed their own methods and

approaches to engineering design and drafting. Architects had a style that was
applicable to their work but was much different than what aeronautical
engineers used. A major problem in the latter case was the need to produce
accurate drawings at
scale for large components of an airplane since it was
not possible to convert smaller drawings into the templates needed to produce
these parts. Figure
shows several engineers and technicians creating a
aircraft master layout.
During the decades following the Second World War, drafting equipment
suppliers introduced a variety of materials to improve the productivity of the
drafting process. Instead of drawing every detail on a drawing, stickers
representing these items could be applied to the drawing. Together with a new
generation of reproduction machines, the time to create routine drawings was
reduced substantially.

14

Figure
Creating an Aircraft Master Layout

Calculations were typically done with slide rules, electromechanical desk

calculators and handbooks of mathematical tables and engineering data. Many
technical calculations were done using logarithms which enabled multiplication
and division calculations to be done using addition and subtraction. The most
popular handbook for doing these calculations was first published in

by

Dr. Richard Burington. Unfortunately, these handbooks often contained minor

errors. Buringtons handbook was reprinted numerous times, each with
corrections from prior editions.

The engineering design process, including the preparation of drawings, was

fraught with opportunities for error. One result was that every calculation and
drawing was checked multiple times, especially when the consequences of an
error could be disastrous. While computers have taken much of the drudgery
out of engineering design, we know they are not perfect and it is still possible
to make horrendous mistakes if one does not exercise the appropriate levels of
care.

Americans were first who begging automate processes in light industry. They
create automate cutting device (ACD) for cutting material flooring by special
knife over the ordered program without previous marking. The path to wide

15

spread using was not very easy. The developers over 5 years persuade
entertainments of light industry in effectiveness of their method. Once they
persuaded automobile entertainment to try cutting device to cut material for
car seat covers. Results surpassed all expectations. After this case some
entertainments in garment industry start to use cutting device. Very important
that many present-day CAD Systems very similar to American system Gerber.
In USSR the first CAD System for light industry was jointly developed by
specialist of Department mathematical and optimal projecting of Institute
machine-building problem in Ukraine Academy of Science and Research and
developing bureau of automated control systems for textile and light industry
in Moscow. The system was developed on the base of ARM SM-4.
Specialist of Institute machine-building problem developed software for
projecting markers.
Specialists of Research and developing bureau developed Automate Cutting
Device (ACD) for cutting by laser beam.
In 1988 year software was demonstrated at Federal Exhibition Center in
Moscow. CAD System was regarded by Gold medal because of realized
program of automatically projecting marker surpass all well-known CAD
System in the world.
This software serves the necessary need but didnt become wide spread
because of using ARM SM-4 which were only 2 units in USSR for light industry.
A wide developing of CAD Systems starts in 1990 years with spreading of IMB
PC computers.

The first commercial applications of CAM were in large companies in the

automotive and aerospace industries for example UNISURF in 1971 at Renault
for car body design and tooling. [Citation needed]
Originally, CAM software was seen to have several shortcomings that
necessitated an overly high level of involvement by skilled CNC machinists.
Fallows created the first CAM software but this had severe shortcomings and

16

was promptly taken back into the developing stage.[citation needed] CAM
software would output code for the least capable machine, as each machine
tool control added on to the standard G-code set for increased flexibility. In
some cases, such as improperly set up CAM software or specific tools, the CNC
machine required manual editing before the program will run properly. None
of these issues were so insurmountable that a thoughtful engineer or skilled
machine operator could not overcome for prototyping or small production
runs; G-Code is a simple language. In high production or high precision shops, a
different set of problems were encountered where an experienced CNC
machinist must both hand-code programs and run CAM software.

CAD had its origins in three separate sources, which also serve to highlight the
basic operations that CAD systems provide. The first source of CAD resulted
from attempts to automate the drafting process. These developments were
pioneered by the General Motors Research Laboratories in the early

s.

One of the important time-saving advantages of computer modelling over

traditional drafting methods is that the former can be quickly corrected or
manipulated by changing a model's parameters. The second source of CAD was
in the testing of designs by simulation. The use of computer modelling to test
products was pioneered by high-tech industries like aerospace and
semiconductors. The third source of CAD development resulted from efforts to
facilitate the flow from the design process to the manufacturing process using
numerical control (NC) technologies, which enjoyed widespread use in many
applications by the mid-

s. It was this source that resulted in the linkage

between CAD and CAM. One of the most important trends in CAD/CAM
technologies is the ever-tighter integration between the design and
manufacturing stages of CAD/CAM-based production processes.
The development of CAD and CAM and particularly the linkage between the
two overcame traditional NC shortcomings in expense, ease of use, and speed
by enabling the design and manufacture of a part to be undertaken using the
same system of encoding geometrical data. This innovation greatly shortened

17

the period between design and manufacture and greatly expanded the scope
of production processes for which automated machinery could be
economically used. Just as important, CAD/CAM gave the designer much more
direct control over the production process, creating the possibility of
completely integrated design and manufacturing processes.
The rapid growth in the use of CAD/CAM technologies after the early

was made possible by the development of mass-produced silicon chips and the
microprocessor, resulting in more readily affordable computers. As the price of
computers continued to decline and their processing power improved, the use
of CAD/CAM broadened from large firms using large-scale mass production
techniques to firms of all sizes. The scope of operations to which CAD/CAM
was applied broadened as well. In addition to parts-shaping by traditional
machine tool processes such as stamping, drilling, milling, and grinding,
CAD/CAM has come to be used by firms involved in producing consumer
electronics, electronic components, molded plastics, and a host of other
products. Computers are also used to control a number of manufacturing
processes (such as chemical processing) that are not strictly defined as CAM
because the control data are not based on geometrical parameters.
Using CAD, it is possible to simulate in three dimensions the movement of a
part through a production process. This process can simulate feed rates, angles
and speeds of machine tools, the position of part-holding clamps, as well as
range and other constraints limiting the operations of a machine. The
continuing development of the simulation of various manufacturing processes
is one of the key means by which CAD and CAM systems are becoming
increasingly integrated. CAD/CAM systems also facilitate communication
among those involved in design, manufacturing, and other processes. This is of

Particular importance when one firm contracts another to either design or

produce a component

18

Evaluation Research aims to demonstrate to what extent previously

stated targets have been reached within the unity of the research by
trying to determine the relationship among input, output, process
and performance variables in the studies being carried out.
Considering the fact that this research includes analytic assessments,
the Evaluation Survey Methodology was chosen, as it is the most
suitable method for the objective direction, application studies and
data evaluation of the research. Technical drawings and size set
tables of the basic t-shirt which form the material of this research
were prepared by the author. These technical drawings are
proportional and equipped with necessary measurements, sewing
instructions and fabric varieties for the preparation of garment
patterns.
Two methods were applied to obtain the findings in the research, the
manual method and the CAD method. Then, the stages for carrying
out the research were determined. On this basis the procedures
forming the research were also established [18]. These were
determined separately for the manual and CAD working methods.
Either of the two procedures stated below can be followed to work
the model with the CAD system:
1- Digitizing the main size patterns after preparing them manually,
2- Preparing from the beginning of the main size patterns using CAD.

To follow the latter procedure, CAD system operators have to be

good pattern designers at the same time. This is not a frequently
encountered situation in the apparel industry. Mostly, the main size

19

patterns are prepared manually and then digitized by following the

former procedure in the industry.
Table 1. Stages and procedures for the manual working method.

Numbe
r
Stages

Procedures

Main size pattern

preparation

of stage

1.

Main size pattern checking

and
2.

A. Measurement check
B. Checking of face to face sewing
places

correction
C. Main size pattern correction
A. Production gathering allowances

Putting necessary
allowances on
3.

B. Shrinkage allowances
patterns
C. Seam allowances

4.

Main size pattern size

setting

20

A. Measurement check
5.

Size set patterns check and B. Checking of face to face sewing

correction
places
C. Correction of size set patterns
A. Separation of sizes of nested
patterns
B. Cutting of patterns on
transparent papers
C. Checking of patterns on
transparent papers
D. Correction of patterns on
transparent papers

6.

Arrangements prior to
marker making

E. Transferring patterns on
transparent papers to
cardboard
F. Checking the patterns on
cardboard
G. Correcting the patterns on
cardboard
H. Cutting the patterns on
cardboard

7.

A. Fabric and rib marker making

Marker making and

correction

B. Checking and correcting fabric

and rib marker

21

A. Fabric marker plotting

8.

Marker plotting
B. Rib marker plotting

Table 2. Stages and procedures for the CAD system working method.

Numbe
r
Stages

Procedures

of stage

1.

A. Main size pattern preparation

manually

Main size pattern

preparation

B. Digitising main size patterns

Main size pattern checking
and

2.

A. Measurement check
B. Checking of face to face sewing
places

correction
C. Main size pattern correction
A. Production gathering allowances

Putting necessary
allowances on

3.

patterns

B. Shrinkage allowances

22

C. Seam allowances

4.

Main size pattern size

setting

A. Measurement check

5.

Size set patterns check and B. Checking of face to face sewing

correction
places
C. Correction of size set patterns

6.

Arrangements prior to
marker making

7.

Marker making and

correction

A. Model file preparation

B. Order file preparation
A. Fabric and rib marker making
B. Fabric and rib marker check and
correction
A. Fabric marker plotting

8.

Marker plotting

B. Rib marker plotting

The research was carried out in two directions: In the first direction,
the manual method was compared with the CAD method to
investigate the effects of model complexity. The course steps and
procedures for the model chosen were applied both manually and by
the CAD method. The course steps and procedures for the manual

23

method were realized by the author. Those for the CAD method
were realized by an expert CAD system operator.

During the studies carried out in the second direction, the aim was to
com-pare the manual method with the CAD method separately for
each stage value and the total values. At this point only the Model was handled and related stages and procedures were conducted
times by

different expert pattern designers and pattern

technicians, and

times by

different expert CAD system operators

and operator assistants by using five different CAD systems.

The pattern designers had

years of experience in the industry,

and were capable of preparing patterns on all kinds of models. The

pattern technicians chosen had the same level of experience and
expertise as their colleagues in the industry. The CAD system
operators were chosen from among people who had good command
of patterns and the CAD system. The required duties were presented
to both groups in the form of a list of in The pattern designers had
years of experience in the industry, and were capable of
preparing patterns on all kinds of models. The pattern technicians
chosen had the same level of experience and expertise as their
colleagues in the industry. The CAD system operators were chosen
from among people who had good command of patterns and the
CAD system. The required duties were presented to both groups in
the form of a list of instructions by the author, and the work was
carried out under her supervision.

24

Two procedures were followed to obtain findings in the research.

The stages and procedures for the manual working method are
shown in Table

Stages and procedures for the CAD working method are shown in
Table

Each course step was timed by a digital chronometer while carrying

out the timing process; human activity and the usage of production
instruments for the person doing the work (or the production
instrument being used) were also taken into consideration [
Based on these usage times and activities, timings were also taken
for the Main Activity and Alternative Activity, & the Main Us-age
and Alternative Usage.

The concept of production loss is often expressed in terms of losses

suffered due to a failure to obtain appropriate and profitable returns
from the investment. The three kinds of losses experienced in
industrial establishments are losses in work power, production
activities, raw materials and accessories [

Similar losses are also observed in the apparel sector. The share of
raw materials and accessories, which are the main items of the
apparel industry, reaches

of production costs. These losses

25

suffered in the apparel industry are pieces called waste and surplus
fabric, and they often do not have any definite commercial value
Therefore, the effects of the CAD system on the cost of fabric, which
has the greatest share within the total product cost, were also
included into the scope of the research.

For this reason, after the completion of all kinds of work related to
patterns, markers were prepared both manually

Figure

Comparison of the manual and CAD methods

Figure

26

Comparison of manual and CAD systems.

The material for this study consists of garment models, patterns, transparent
pattern papers, cardboards, CAD systems, a chronometer and fabrics.
Sr.#

Nomenclature of Equipment/Tools

Quantity

Systems (computer set)

25

Plotters

01

Digitizers

02

Scales

25

Inches tapes

25

scissors

12

Cutting tables

06

Set squares

12

Fashion CAD software is for computerized

pattern making for the apparel and garment manufacturing
industries. Fashion CAD is an integrated suite of software which
includes pattern design, pattern grading, pattern detailing, pattern
layout and a fully featured CAD drafting system. Fashion CAD is an
innovative CAD approach to pattern making which provides the
flexible tools to create and modify pattern designs and to shorten
the time cycle for all pattern making processes, such as grading.
Gerber Technology provides an extensive line of
integrated computer hardware and software systems to the sewngoods and flexible goods industries. These systems significantly
improve the efficiency of information management, product and

27

pattern design, grading and marker making/nesting, material

spreading and cutting processes.
Is software for pattern construction, grading and
lay planning running on standard Personal Computers under
Windows

and above. It contains an extensive range of functions

for pattern cutting and modification and is available at a very

competitive price. Therefore, GRAFIS is in use in industry as well as in
trade and education.
PAD System's mission is to offer high technological level
CAD/CAM solutions that are efficient, simple and flexible to all
individuals and companies involved in the apparel, textiles and
leather industry as well as in D computer graphics. PAD System
evolves with its customer. They believe that, through a personalized
approach and by offering continuous first class support and training,
PAD System and its clients will grow together with success.
Lectra is a world leader in the design, manufacturing and
distribution of software and hardware dedicated to the major
industrial users of textiles, leather and other soft materials, supplying
a comprehensive range of associated services for the development of
complete solutions, from product design to manufacture to retailing.
Lectra, a leading technology provider to the fashion industry offers a
wide range of software,
: CAD/CAM/CIM systems are for the Sewn Goods
Industry. TUKA studio is used for Fabric and Garment Design, TUKA
cad for Pattern Design, Grading and Marking.

28

Definition of CAD Tools Based on Their

Implementation in a Design Environment

29

The production flow chart seen below is used to demonstrate the

stages involved in manufacturing a product using batch production
techniques. The example shows the stages of making the parts for
the picnic table through CAD (computer aided design) and CAM
(computer aided manufacture). Quality control is seen at two stages.
This is when the product is checked for faults as it should be in
perfect condition at each stage.

30

31

32

33

34

1. Continuous-flow processes. Continuous dedicated

production of large amount of bulk product. Continuous
manufacturing is represented by chemicals, plastics,
petroleum, and food industries.
2. Mass production of discrete products. Dedicated
production of large quantities of one product (with
perhaps limited model variations). Examples include
automobiles, appliances and engine blocks.
3. Batch production. Production of medium lot sizes of the
same product. The lot may be produced once or repeated
periodically. Examples: books, clothing and certain
industrial machinery.

35

4. Job-shop production. Production of low quantities,

often one of a kind, of specialized products. The products
are often customized and technologically complex.
Examples: prototypes, aircraft, machine tools and other
equipment.

36

1. In manual system the system is used to make maker for garment

making is traditional. But in CAD system marker making is done in
modern system.
2. Marker efficiencies is not visible in manual system. Other hand, marker
efficiency is visible in CAD system.

Manual

and

Cad Marker Making

3. Marker length is not visible in manual system. Marker length is visible in

monitor screen at CAD system.
4. In manual, once marker is made, not possible to increase its efficiency.
But in CAD it is possible to increase the efficiency at any time.
5. Marker copying is not possible manually. In CAD, by using Plotter as
much as possible copy can be done.
6. Manual marker making is very time consuming method whereas, CAD is
a faster method.
7. In manual system quality cannot be assured. It has quality assurance.
8. Manual system costing is low but CAD is expensive.

37

Before CAD/CAM technology, drafts, calculations and product

design involved pencil, paper and a seemingly endless succession of
blueprints. CAD/CAM's ongoing enhancement has made the process
easier, but with the latest slew of features, some users actually find
less is more.
Virtually every manmade product has been designed and
manufactured using a CAD/CAM program. CAD/CAM, or Computer
Aided Design/Computer Aided Manufacturing, is utilized in every
facet of industry; from designing phones to plotting out toolpaths in
die and mold shops. Although the users of CAD/CAM technology
may, at times, feel frustrated by how often its software is updated, the
fact is that CAD/CAM has close to five decades of history stretching
almost as far back as the computer.
CAD/CAM, like the digital computer, had its inception in the
military. In the mid-1950s the U.S. Air Force began testing an air
defense system known as SAGE (Semi Automatic Ground
Environment) to graphically depict data received on radar systems.
The first computer actually rendering a program, SAGE was
conceived at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). In
1960, computer scientists at MIT produced yet another project called
Sketchpad, an application that is now considered to be the first design
program with industrial use. A similar program sprouted up at
General Motors soon after. At that time, mainframes were still large
enough to take up entire rooms.
During the 1960's CAD/CAM technology continued to evolve and
spread to other areas. Automotive companies were the first to adopt
the technology, and used it primarily to design automobile bodies. It
then quickly spread to other sectors of industry, which were only too
eager to abandon traditional pen and paper methods of drafting. By
1973, CAD/CAM was being used to design industrial tools. Midway
through the decade, the 19-inch monitor came out, which meant that
drawings could be viewed larger than the previous standard of 11
inches? In the last half of the 70's, solid modeling software became
available. It allowed users to take "geometric primitives" (basic

38

geometric shapes such as boxes and cones) and combine those using
Boolean operations. In 1982, Autodesk made CAD/CAM history
when it released the first version of AutoCAD, which soon became
the premiere software platform for automobile design.
At times, the history of CAD/CAM seems like the plot of a spy novel.
In 1984, a Hungarian scientist named Gabor Bajor, succeeded in
smuggling two Macintosh computers into his Communist-controlled
homeland. With the intent of writing a 3D CAD program, Bajor and
his teenage assistant used the illegal computers to create just that
program, and started the Graphsoft Company. In 1985, Diehl
Graphsoft introduced MiniCAD to the market, which would be
considered the industry standard for CAD on the Mac. The same year
Autodesk unveiled AutoCAD 2.1. Complete with 3D capabilities,
AutoCAD 2.1 was another breakthrough that transformed design in
the auto industry. In the late 80's and early 90's, CAD/CAM giant
Unigraphics took its place as a major industry player by partnering
with industry powerhouses such as General Motors, UNIX, GE and
Boeing.
During the early 1990s, Unigraphics introduced hybrid modeling,
which featured both traditional modeling and advanced parametric
techniques. By the end of 1994, over one million units of AutoCAD
had been sold, and by the end of 1995, there were about 350,000 users
of generic CAD/CAM reported worldwide.
In 1996, General Motors signed the largest contract in CAD/CAM's
history by selecting Unigraphics as its sole vendor for vehicle
development software. Soon afterwards, Unigraphics would once
again transform the medium by releasing CAD/CAM software that
allowed for the definition, control and evaluation of product
templates.
Another major advance in CAD/CAM occurred IN 1999 when
Think3, a "Johnny-come-lately" to the world of CAD/CAM,
introduced the first mechanical design software that could fully
combine the power of parametric solids, advanced surfacing,
wireframe and two-dimensional drafting on the desktop in one
environment. Subsequently, a plethora of software vendors has

39

surfaced, inundating the market with competing CAD/CAM platforms

AND causing designers to be alternately pleased and confused by the
sheer number of options available to them.
At present, CAD/CAM continues its steady path of progress. Much of
this progress is in the form of refining past innovations to make them
more efficient and user friendly. A groundbreaking CAD/CAM
innovation has not occurred for a number of years, which seems to
indicate that another sweeping change is just around the corner -- or
maybe not.
Despite the advent of 3D CAD/CAM, many CAD/CAM users still
prefer to render designs in 2D. Thus, recent 3D innovations such as
animated "walk-throughs" (a technique that allows designers to
visually move in and around the rendered model, and see it from
every possible angle) are still largely underused. The same is true of
the bevy of collaboration tools currently available to the CAD/CAM
user.
The ability to combine CAD/CAM, with finite-element analysis and
the accessibility of simulation and knowledge management, has yet to
be fully embraced. Perhaps, it is in one of these areas that the next
CAD/CAM breakthrough will occur.

One thing that can be said with a degree of certainty is that research
and development are currently ahead of user demand. When, and if,
the garden-variety CAD/CAM user decides that they need to expand
their range of capabilities, they will find a world of cutting-edge
CAD/CAM tools at their disposal.

Garment manufacturers are primarily engaged in the design, cutting

and sewing of garments from fabric. Bangladesh has become an ideal
land of readymade garments. There are about 4500 garment industries
40

in Bangladesh and 2.5 million people work in this sector. It earns

more than 70% foreign currency from this sector. If we can increase
our export volume, we can earn foreign currency more. Factory can
increase the productivity by using CAD/CAM technology.
Bangladesh using software for shorter development time of sample,
good forecasting of cost, no shrinkage due to spreading including
faster and consistent cutting, better marker efficiency etc. More over
using this technology manufacturer can make sure optimum use of
fabric saving wastage. So production will be increased and production
cost will be reduced. So CAD/CAM technology is a must one for the
garment manufacturer of Bangladesh.

Comparison between CAD system and Manual system

41

MANUAL SYSTEM
140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
NEW PATTERN
CREATION

GRADING

MARKER
PLANNING

SKETCH
PREPARATION

CAD SYSTEM
20
15
10
Series 1

5
0
NEW PATTERN
CREATION

GRADING

MARKER PLANNING

SKETCH
PREPARATION

Cutting Efficiency (computerized v/s manual)

42

CAD SYSTEM CUTTING EFFICIENCY

1400
1200
1000
800
Series 1
600

Series 2

400
200
0
TOTAL LENGTH OF FABRIC IN METERS

NO Of SHIRT

MANUAL SYSTEM CUTTING EFFICIENCY

1400
1200
1000
800
600

Series 1

400
200
0
TOTAL LENGTH OF FABRICS IN
METERS

NO . OF SHIRTS

43

Production Efficiency(computerized v/s manual Sewing)

16400
16200
Column2
16000

Column3
Column4

15800

Column5
15600

Column6
Column7

15400

Column8
15200
15000
NO OF SHIRTS PER DAY

44

4300
4200
4100

Series 1

4000

Series 2
Series 3

3900

Series 4
Series 5

3800

Series 6

3700

Series 7
3600
3500
NO OF SHIRTS PER DAY

Markers
quantity per
day

per
day

per
day

per
day -->>
per month

45

per
day

per
day

per
day -->>
per month

omparing of
fabric
consumption:
marker
nested
manually

,
m

,
m

automatically ,
by IMM
m
Fabric
savings on
layer

,
m

Fabric
savings on
layers

,
m

, m

,
m

,
m

,
m

,
m

, m

,
m

, m

Comparing of
labor time:

marker
nested
manually

min.

h
min.

automatically
by IMM

min..

min

Time
savings

min.

min. ~

h
min.

min.

4 min.

40 min.

h=

~ days

14

min.
min.

h=

~ days

46

Money
savings
per each
month:

m*$

m+

h*$

h=

m*$
$

Marker Efficiency:
Calculation of marker efficiency is explained below with formula.
General formula using area,

47

m+

h*$

h=

48

Time savings
marker nested manually

Automatically by IMM

min.

min.

49

Time savings

50

 1: Difficulty keeping track of changes when many people are

working on drawings for a project (Revision Control).
2: Protecting your ideas is difficult when you must share your
drawings with customers and contractors, but you need input
about design questions (Intellectual Property).
3: Sharing your drawings with other companies who may not be
using the same CAD programs.
Potential for wasted parts and materials due to inaccurate CAD.
Machinery can break down, halting production.

To survive in the global market we have to keep in pace with the adventures of
modern generation which demands for Flexible, Dynamic &Versatile
techniques. CAD plays a vital role in textile designing as well as fabric

51

simulation. These possess gives customer satisfaction, on time delivery, variety

in design & color and rapid transmission of design to consumer. It is currently
developing a host of new products. To survive in the global market, the textile
activities in India should be well planned by using ERP system at the core We
wish to conclude by affirming that these control systems, besides improving
the production quality supply all useful indications to establish parameters
like: yarn consumption, fabric unloading, optimization of the material flow, the
organization of maintenance stops, etc would enable fabric & garment
product producers to be dynamically adoptable to the fast and even changing
needs of the fashion oriented GLOBAL MARKET place, which is steadily
getting COMPETITIVE.

With the emergence of new global trade environments, alternatives for

production and provision of all sorts of goods have increased and competition
has become fierce. Nowadays the shelf life of a product is not long enough to
justify the time, labour and expense necessary for the design and production
manually. This, in turn, makes CAD extremely important for apparel
production

The increase in the number and the complexity of the models and the decrease
in production time have boosted demands for automatic grading of garment
patterns. Automatic preparation of garment pat-terns using body
measurements obtained from body scanning, and furnishing them with fabric
and production characteristics, will greatly contribute to the dynamic structure
of the apparel sector. Body scanning provides multi-dimensional data that has
the potential to provide new insights into sizing and grading systems. However,
for body scanning to support automated garment development, automatic
integration of measurement data into commercially available CAD/CAM
software must be achieved first.

52

More improvement of the software programmes and training the system

operators on pattern making will enable the main size pattern to be prepared
from draft; the CAD system will thus become more efficient in the main size
pattern stage also. For the CAD system to be more advantageous in the
checking and correcting stages of the main size pattern preparation,
dependence on individuals in CAD functions should be minimised.

Using the CAD system during marker making as efficiently as in other steps
naturally requires the determination of certain standards concerning marker
making. Moreover, improving automatic marker making programmes and
preparing markers using these programmes followed by necessary corrections
will make it possible for the CAD systems to be profitable during these steps as
well. Until this objective is realised, some solutions can be offered;

The system operator must be qualified in the marker making process.

The technician who makes the marker plan and corrections must learn
the CAD system.

Marker makers who prepare the marker plan according to their previous
experience are urged to cooperate and work together with the CAD operator
in charge.

The root of the matter lies not only in the selection of the proper CAD system
according to the type of the firm and the product, but also in the training of
the operators to carry out their functions in the fastest and the most efficient
way, and to improve the work standards within the company. Unpredicted
problems or results encountered in this research could therefore be attributed
to lack of training.

53

The in-service training programmes of the CAD system companies often fall
short of being adequate, because the trainers are not knowledgeable enough
to provide training on pattern making and apparel production; the trainees do
not have the proper background; they are not technically equipped to function
efficiently within the CAD system. Consequently, they fail to reach expected
efficiency targets in using the CAD system. For a lasting solution to this
problem, it is recommended that the cooperation between the universities and
the industrial organizations be promoted in the short term. As a long-term
solution, however, it is essential that comprehensive and relevant training
programmes be developed, especially at the college level, and that the
technicians completing these programmes should be employed in the apparel
industry

54