ActigumVSX 20

Texture formulations even

in challenging conditions

Cargill Personal Care

www.cargill.com

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Cargill offers an unrivalled portfolio

Oils & Fats

Hydrocolloids

Polyols
Glycerin

Alcohol
Cocoa &
Chocolate

Malt
Starches &
Derivatives

Lecithins

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Proteins
Functional
Systems

of nature derived texturizers

Xanthan
Gum

Alginates
Pectins

Carrageenans
Locust
Bean Gum

Starches
Scleroglucan
Lecithins

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Consumer key trends

Health & Wellness

Multifunctionality

Consumers are
concerned by their skin
health and appearance
so want safer and antiaging products for them

Consumers time is precious

so they are looking for quick
and convenient products

Natural ingredients
are perceived as safer

Sustainability

Consumers want to
preserve the planet for
future generations

Lecithins

Biodiversity is crucial for

the planet

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Challenges for Cosmetic formulators

Emulsifier free
Resistance to high TC
Low pH formulations

Sustainability

Natural ingredients
From renewable source

Multi-functionality

Ingredients with wide compatibility

Performance solutions in challenging
conditions

Health &
wellness

while offering a pleasant sensorial experience to consumers

5

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Challenges for Cosmetic formulators

Viscosity
Stability
Suspension

CHALLENGES
Sustainability
Texture/
sensory
Clarity

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

In a nutshell: solving formulation challenges

A more
sustainable
solution

even in difficult
conditions
Resistant to high T
Performance at low pH

Natural origin
Renewable source

Highly
performing
Lecithins

High viscosity
Suspension
Stabilization

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

ActigumVSX 20
A more sustainable solution is a synergistic
combination of biopolymers, which helps formulators to
texture and stabilize skincare formulations even in difficult
conditions, without impacting badly the environment.

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Actigum VSX 20
A more sustainable solution
Scleroglucan

Xanthan gum

Produced by the aerobic

Produced by the aerobic

fermentation of sugars by the

fermentation of sugars by the

fungus Sclerotium rolfsii

bacterium Xanthomonas
campestris.

Recipe

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Cargill Pharma & Personal care

Actigum VSX 20
A more sustainable solution

Natural origin polysaccharides

Produced by the aerobic fermentation of sugars
Renewable source
Recipe
Biodegradable

Cold processable

10

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

ActigumVSX 20
A high-performing synergistic combination
Scleroglucan

Xanthan gum

Non-ionic

Anionic

Excellent compatibility

Clear gel

(electrolytes, surfactants, alcohol )

Clear gel & pleasant

sensory

Wide compatibility

Electrolytes

Alcohol (up to 60%)

Recipe

Stable over a wide range of

High yield value

Resistance to high TC
Usable in a wide range of pH

temperatures and pHs

Synergies with other

polymers such as Locust Bean
Gum, Sclerotium gum, Guar gum

11

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

ActigumVSX 20
The texturizer for challenging conditions
Description & properties

Synergistic combination of biopolymers

Texturizing /Suspending agent

Stabilizer

Stable in extreme conditions of pH and

temperature

Clear gel / Pleasant sensory

Moisturizing enhancer

Raw materials

INCI name
Sclerotium gum and xanthan gum

12

From fermentation

Renewable source

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

ActigumVSX 20
A high performing synergistic combination

Unique stabilizing
properties
Stabilization of :
Sprayable, fluid emulsions
Suspensions

13

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

ActigumVSX 20
High performing synergistic combination
Viscosity at
1 s-1

Comparison of Viscosity obtained in a body milk formulation

40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
CS 11 0,10%
Scleroglucan
0.1%

cx911 0,1%
Xanthan gum
0.1%

actigum VSX20 0,1%

ActigumVSX
20
0.1%

actigum VSX20 0,08%

ActigumVSX 20
0.08%

Texturizer tested
in the
formulation

14

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Unique synergistic
combination, offering
an increased
viscosity or lower
cost in use

Actigum VSX 20
A high performing synergistic combination

A unique

multifunctional
solution:
Immediate
Long lasting
Hydration enhancement

15

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Performance,
even in challenging conditions

16

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Actigum VSX 20
High performing synergistic combination

Refreshing mineral sunspray

with ActigumVSX 20
Stabilization of a high content of
mineral filter
Sprayable
Low viscosity formulation

17

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

ActigumVSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Stability to High TC
Comparative rheological profile between sun care products

Unique stability

18

After exposure to high temperature both

Storage

ActigumTM products are recovering their

viscosity

Exposition to high tC

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Beach
Warm countries

ActigumVSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Texturizing at low pH
Viscosity (Cps)

4000
3500
Dehydroxanthan
Gum (0.25%)
Amaze
XT (0.25%)

3000

Carbomer
(0.1%)
ultrez
30 (0.1%)

Actigum VSX 20 (0.5%)

2500
2000

Stable viscosity in a
wide range of pH

Pleasant texture

No need to neutralise

1500
1000
500
0
2

pH

When textured with ActigumVSX 20, the viscosity of the formulation is

not impacted by acidic pH.
19

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Actigum VSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Texturizing at low pH

Milk with 5% AHA- Viscosity in function of

texturizers
900

Actigum VSX 20
thickens efficiently
even:

800

Viscosity (Cps)

700
600
500
400
300

at low pH

In presence of
electrolytes

200
100
0
Dehydroxanthan
Amaze XT (0.4%)
Gum (0.4%)

Actigum VSX 20
(0.5%)

Carbomer
(0.9%)
Carbopol
Ultrez
30
(0.9%)
Formulation at pH: 4.25
Brookfield RVT-100 RPM

20

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Actigum VSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Texturizing at low pH

21

Ingredients

INCI Name

Demi. Water

Water (Aqua)

qsp

Actigum VSX 20

0.5

C*HiForm A12747

Sclerotium gum (and) xanthan

gum
Hydroxypropyl starch
phosphate

Refined Glycerin

Glycerin

Sisterna SP70C

Sucrose stearate

1.5

Caprylic capric triglyceride

Caprylic/Capric triglyceride

15

Citric acid solution (20%)

Citric acid

Adjust at pH=4.5

Complexe sorbate & benzoate

Aqua (and) sodium benzoate

(and ) potassium sorbate

AHA Acides de fruits

Water (and) Vaccinium myrtillus extract

(and) Saccharum officinarum extract (and)
Acer saccharum extract (and) Citrus
aurantium dulcis extract (and) Citrus
medica limonum extract.

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Anti-aging
cream with
5% AHA

Actigum VSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Texturizing at low pH

Ingredients
Ingredients

INCI Name
Name
INCI

%
%

Demi. Water
Water
Demi.

qsp
qsp

Satiaxane A12747
CX 911
C*HiForm

Water (Aqua)
(Aqua)
Water
Sclerotium gum (and) xanthan
Carbomer
gum
Hydroxypropyl
starch
Xanthan gum
phosphate

0.225
3

Refined Glycerin
Refined Glycerin

Glycerin
Glycerin

2
2

Sisterna SP70C
Sisterna SP70C

Sucrose stearate
Sucrose stearate

1.5
1.5

Caprylic capric triglyceride

Caprylic capric triglyceride
Citric acid solution (20%)
Citric acid solution (20%)

Caprylic/Capric triglyceride
Caprylic/Capric triglyceride
Citric acid
Citric acid
Aqua (and) sodium benzoate
Aqua
sodium sorbate
benzoate
(and(and)
) potassium
(and
) potassium
sorbate
Water
(and)
Vaccinium myrtillus
extract

15
15
Adjust at pH=4.5
Adjust at pH=4.5

Water
(and) Vaccinium
myrtillus
extract
(and)
Saccharum
officinarum
extract
(and)
(and)
Saccharum
officinarum
extract
(and)
Acer
saccharum
extract (and)
Citrus
Acer saccharum
aurantium
dulcis extract (and) Citrus
aurantium
dulcis
extractextract.
(and) Citrus
medica
limonum
medica limonum extract.

5
5

Carbomer
Actigum
VSX 20

Complexe sorbate & benzoate

Complexe sorbate & benzoate

AHA Acides de fruits

AHA Acides de fruits

22

0.9
0.5

1
1

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Anti-aging
cream with
5% AHA

ActigumVSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Texturizing at low pH

Cream with 5% AHA- Flow curves

100

In the jar

Viscosity (Pa.s)

10

High viscosity at rest

Shear-thinning
behaviour

Richness at
application

At delivery
0.1

At application
Actigum VSX 20 (0.5%) +
C*HiForm A122747 (3%)

0.01
1

23

10

100
Shear rate (s-1)

1000

10000

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

CarbomerUltrez
(0.9%)
Carbopol
30 (0.9%)
+ Xanthan gum (0.225%)

Actigum VSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Texturizing at low pH

Ingredients

INCI Name

Demi. Water

Water (Aqua)

qsp

Actigum VSX 20

0.15

C*HiForm A12747

Sclerotium gum (and) xanthan

gum
Hydroxypropyl starch
phosphate

Glycerin

Glycerin

15

Complexe sorbate &

benzoate

Aqua (and) sodium benzoate

(and ) potassium sorbate

Exfoliating Beads

Exfoliating agent

AHA
Fragrance

24

Water (and) Vaccinium myrtillus extract

(and) Saccharum officinarum extract
(and) Acer saccharum extract (and)
Citrus aurantium dulcis extract (and)
Citrus medica limonum extract.

Fragrance

10
0.2

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Low pH
Resurfacing
Facial Peel with
10% AHA

Actigum VSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Suspending at low pH

Phase
4 MONTH 45C
A

ph 2

ph 3

ph 4

ph 5

25

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

Raw material

Water

97.5

ActigumTM VSX20

0.5

Preservative

Beads

Unique suspending
properties even at
low pH
Clear gel
Pleasant sensory

Actigum VSX 20
The candidate for difficult conditions Emulsifier-free
Phase
A

C
D

26

Ingredients
Demi. Water

INCI name
Water (Aqua)
Sclerotium gum (and)
Actigum VSX 20
xanthan gum
Glycerin
Glycerin
Sisterna SP70C
Sucrose stearate
Butyl
Avobenzone
Methoxydibenzoylmethane
EthylHexyl
EthylHexyl
Methoxycinnamate
Methoxycinnamate
Benzophenone-3
Benzophenone-3
Ethyl Macadamiate (and)
Floramac 10
Tocopherol (and) Malic acid
Caprylic capric
Caprylic/Capric triglyceride
triglyceride
Dehydroacetic acid (and)
Geogard 221
Bezyl alcohol (and) Water
Sodium Starch Octenyl
C*EmTex 06328
Succinate

%
Qsp
0.65
2
1.5
3
7
7
5
5
1
2

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

28.5%
Oil
phase

Stable 1 Month
at 45C
Stability still on going

In a nutshell: solving formulation challenges

A sustainable
solution

even in difficult
conditions

Natural origin
Renewable source

Resistant to high T
Performance at low pH

Highly
performing
Lecithins

High viscosity
Suspension
Stabilization

27

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions

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28

ActigumVSX 20: texture formulations, even in challenging conditions