Laboratory Tests

LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 1/15
PURPOSE
The purpose of this instruction is to define the mandatory and specific laboratory tests, and the
quality grade required by Kiabi.
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
F03 Property of S.A.S. KIABI EUROPE reproduction and distribution forbidden
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 2/15
Page
CONTENTS
1. PREREQUISITE
2. GENERAL REMARKS ON LABORATORY TESTS
2.1 - Tests request
2.2 - Tests invoice
2.3 - Tests report
2.4 - Tests reports spreading
3. TESTS CATEGORIES
3.1 - Mandatory tests
3.2 - Specific tests
4. KIABI QUALITY LEVELS
4.1 - Quality level Standard
4.2 - Quality level Essential products
5. LIST OF KIABI TESTS
5-6
5.1 - Standard quality level
7-8
5.2 - Standard tensile strength
5.3 - Standard tearing strength
5.4 - Standard azodyes
5.5 - Standard formaldehyde
5.6 - Standard PCP
5.7 - Standard phthalates / PAHS
10 - 11
5.8 - Standard zippers
12
6. SPECIFIC OPERATING MODES
13
6.1 - Home tests for Essential products
13
6.2 - Spirality after washing
14
7. COLOR FASTNESS RATING
15
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 3/15
See
1. PREREQUISITE
The tests are carried out in Kiabi approved laboratories in compliance with existing standards.
2. GENERAL REMARKS ON LABORATORY TESTS

2.1 - Tests request
As a general rule, tests are requested as early as possible to the fabric or yarn supplier,
the cost of the tests is included in trade negotiations.
Tests are requested either :
- by Kiabi,
- by the Kiabi Service Provider,
- by the supplier (raw materials or finished product),
using a specific order form given by the approved laboratory.
2.2 - Tests invoice

Tests are invoiced to the person requesting the test identified on the order form .
2.3 - Tests report

The test report clearly indicates the acceptance levels of Kiabi and if the product is
conform or not to Kiabi requirements defined in this document.
Test samples shall be retained by the laboratory, one year.
2.4 - Tests reports spreading

To the person requesting the test
systematic diffusion
To the Kiabi Service Provider
systematic diffusion
To the Quality department
if the test shows a non-conformity

to our requirements.
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
DQUA_023
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 4/15
See
3. TESTS CATEGORIES
The tests fall into 2 categories.
3.1 - Mandatory tests

These tests are required for acceptance of the goods by Kiabi.
They mainly allow to check the composition, dimensional stability, colour fastness to
washing and rubbing, pilling
TESTS
PER
Composition of material
Dimensional stability
Pilling (knit items)
Resistance to rubbing
Resistance to washing
Material
Material
Material
Colour
Colour
3.2 - Specific tests

They are recommended by the buyer depending on the specific nature of the product.
4. KIABI QUALITY LEVELS

4.1 - Quality Level Standard
The quality level Standard applied shall be the default value unless otherwise negotiated
between the buyer and the supplier.
The quality level Standard is formalized in the document Quality level Standard.
DQUA_021
4.2 - Quality level Essential products

The quality level Essential is formalized in the document Quality level Essential.
The Essential products are submitted to additional tests in order to check the useful life
quality of these products.
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
DQUA_022
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 5/15
5. LIST OF KIABI TESTS

TESTS DESCRIPTION
COMPULSPECIFIC
SERY
NF
NORM
ISO
NORM
VALUE
NOTE
3801
5%
Weight per square meters
1833
3pts
EN14970
5%
Only for knit fabric
FABRIC PROPERTY
X
Weight
X
Fibre composition
Length of consumed yarn
Yarn count (Metric yarn count)
7211-5
3%
Woven
Thread per unit length (Contexture)
7211-2
5%
Woven
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
X
To washing & drying
3759/5077
See 5.1
6330
According to care label
To dry cleaning
3175
See 5.1
If no washing possible
To twisting
See 6.2
See 5.1
Angular deviation (Irregularities of the pattern

repeat)
G07-163
G07-168
3%
Woven
Knit
Steam pressure
3005
3%
Jacket & interlining
105 C06
See 5.1
According to care label
COLOUR FASTNESS
To washing
To dry cleaning
change / staining
cross staining
See 7
Opposite colours
change / staining
105 D01
See 5.1
If no washing possible
105 X12
See 5.1
105 E03
50 mg/l
COLOUR FASTNESS TO USE

To rubbing
dry / wet
To chlorinated water
change
(X)
To sea water
change / staining
(X)
105 E02
To light
change
(X)
105 B02
Grade 4
To water
change / staining
(X)
105 E01
_
Compulsory for swimwear
see DQUA_021
see DQUA_021
see DQUA_021
3/4
To perspiration
change / staining
105 E04
3/4
Babies items
see DQUA_021
To saliva
change / staining
(X)
GB
T 18886
Babies items
see DQUA_021
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
TESTS DESCRIPTION
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 6/15
COMPU
LSORY
SPECI
FIC
NF
NORM
ISO
NORM
VALUE
NOTE
SPECIFIC BEHAVIOUR
Repellent to water (spray test)
4920
Repellency
Permeability to water
811
> 600
> 800
Standard
Waterproof
Air proof
9237
35
Skiwear
Wash and Wear
7768/6330
4
3,5
Non iron
Easy Care
EN 14878
Class A
Compulsory for Baby / children

nightwear
6941
15 sec
Compulsory fot textile bedding

items 0 - 4 yrs
12952
part 1 & 2
Compulsory for bedding items
(X)
EN 13758 UPF >40

part 1
UVA <5
Tensile strength (grab test method)
(X)
Tearing strength (Elmendorf method)
(X)
Flammability
(X)
Flammability
(X)
Burning behaviour
(X)
UV protection
see DOCQ_014
FABRIC & ACCESSORIES RESISTANCE
Pilling
(X)
X
Abrasion
13934-2
See 5.2
13937-1
See 5.3
12945-1
12945-2
Compulsory for knit items

For woven items
12947-2
For woven items
EN13770-1
10 000
15 000
City socks
Sport socks
Abrasion
(X)
Peel loss
(X)
12947-2/3
20 000
Compulsory for corduroy
Peel loss
(X)
AATCC93
3 000
3 min
False fur
Weight loss <12%
Seam slippage on finished product
13936-2
if viscose >50%
Seam resistance
13935-2
Zippers
BS 3084
See 5.8
zip fastener
Physical and mechanical test
(X)
Compulsory for accessory
EN 71.1
0 - 3 yrs
Corrosion resistance
22775
Method 2
>50 N
>70 N
if element 6mm
if element > 6mm
Metal parts / needles
PROHIBITED CHEMICALS
14362-1
See 5.4
17234-1/2
Textile
Leather
Azo dye staff
(X)
Formaldehyde
PCP
(pentachlorophenol)
Heavy metals : mercury, arsenic, copper,
aluminium, chromium, cobalt
Nickel
(X)
(X)
14184-1
See 5.5
DIN 53313
See 5.6
(X)
11885
(X)
EN 1811
0,28 g
Lead
(X)
Phtalates
(X)
_
Compulsory for jewels and
hairs accessories
_
DMF
(X)
Chrome VI
Cadmium
pH value
(X)
(X)
(X)
PAHS
(X)
0,05%
_
EN15777
0 ppm
17075
3 ppm
Compulsory for
Shoes & bags
Compulsory for leather
EN 1122
< 0,01%
Compulsory for leather, PU, PVC
3071
ZEK
01.4-08
4 - 7,5
0 ppm
If print and/or Plasticizer part
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 7/15
5.1 - Standard quality level

The standard quality value applied shall be the default value unless otherwise negotiated between the
buyer and the supplier.
STANDARD QUALITY LEVEL FOR WOVEN
TESTS DESCRIPTION
DRESS
TROUSERS
SKIRT
DENIM
Tie & dye
Over dyed
BLOUSON
COAT
RAINCOAT
WINDBREAKER
ANORAK
(POLYAMID)
JACKET
BLAZER
SHIRT
BLOUSE
ISO
NORM
4%H3%W
4%H 3%W
4%H 3%W
4%H 3%W
3%H 2%W
3%H 2%W
3759/5077
6330-3175
TO WASHING
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO WASHING
- Change / Staining
105 C06
TO DRY CLEANING
- Change / Staining
105 D01
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO USE
3
2/3
2
1/2
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
105 X12
_
3 hours
2000 F
4
3 hours
2000 F
4
12945-1
12945-2
TO RUBBING
- Dry
- Wet

PILLING
- ICI
- Martindale
3 hours
2000 F
3/4
ABRASION
3 hours
2000 F
3/4
20000 cycles
20000 cycles
18000 cycles
20000 cycles
20000 cycles
15000 cycles
12947-2
>to fabric
>to fabric
>to fabric
>to fabric
>to fabric
>to fabric
13935-2
2 mm
2 mm
2 mm
2 mm
2 mm
2 mm
13936-2
SEAM RESISTANCE
SEAM SLIPPAGE
STANDARD QUALITY LEVEL FOR KNIT (Item wise)

TESTS DESCRIPTION
SHORT
TEE-SHIRT
POLO PIQUE
ROMPER
FLEECE
JOGGING
5%H 5%W
8%H 6%W
6%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
7%H 5%W
5%
5%
PULLOVER
NF
NORM
ISO NORM
UNDERWEAR
SOCKS
6%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
5%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
in pattern
_
_
5%
5%
5%
5%
G07-168
See 6.2
RIBB//JACQUARD
TO WASHING
- With elastane
TO TWISTING
3759/5077
6330 - 3175
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO WASHING
- Change / Staining
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
105 C06
TO DRY CLEANING
- Change / Staining
105 D01
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3/4
3
3/4
3
_
_
105 X 12
_
3 hours
3
3 heures
3
3 hours
3
3 hours
3
5 hours
3
5 hours
3
12945-1
20000
10 000 (city)
15 000 (sport)
12947-2 /
EN13770-1
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO RUBBING
TO USE
- Dry
- Wet

PILLING
ABRASION
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 8/15
Below levels refer to mono fiber fabrics (ex: 100 % cotton).

STANDARD QUALITY LEVEL FOR KNIT (Knit fabric wise)
TESTS DESCRIPTION
JERSEY
PIQUE
FLEECE
Rib 2x2 3x3
INTERLOCK
Waffle
CHENILLE
TERRY
5%H 5%W
8%H 6%W
6%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
7%H 5%W
6%H 7%W
H+W 12%
6%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
6%H 5%W
_
_
5%
5%
5%
5%
5%
5%
G07-168
See 6.2
NF NORM
ISO NORM
TO WASHING
- With elastane
TO TWISTING
3759/5077
6330-3175
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO WASHING
- Change / Staining
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
105 C06
TO DRY CLEANING
- Change / Staining
105 D01
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
_
_
105 X 12
_
3 hours
3
_
3 hours
3
_
3 hours
3
20000
3 hours
3
_
3 hours
3
_
12945-1
12947-2
12 %
JIS L1096
Sect 8.19.3
Method C
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO RUBBING
TO USE
- Dry
- Wet

PILLING
ABRASION
ABRASION (Taper Type Method)
5.2 - Standard tensile strength

Type of article
Comment
Requirement
Test method
> 230 N
Grab test method

13934-2
Essential denim
5.3 - Standard tearing strength

Fabric weights gsm
90 - 130
131 - 200
201 - 270
271 - 340
341 - 400
401 +
Mthode test
Denim
9x7N
12 x 10 N
18 x 15 N
25 x 18 N
28 x 22 N
32 x 28 N
Non Denim
9x7N
12 x 10 N
15 x 12 N
18 x 14 N
22 x 20 N
25 x 22 N
Tearing strength
(Elmendorf)
13937-1
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 9/15
See
5.4 - Standard azodyes
STANDARD QUALITY LEVEL FOR AZODYES

1 colour
2 colours
3 colours
PASS
< 30mg
< 15mg
< 10mg
FAIL
> 30mg
> 15mg
> 10mg
In the hypothesis where the test reveals the presence of forbidden amines, every colour
will be retested to determine which colour contains azo dyes.
The agreement of the supplier is compulsory to perform this second stage.
5.5 - Standard formaldehyde
STANDARD QUALITY FOR FORMALDEHYDE

Baby under 2 Y
Within contact
to skin
Without
contact to skin
PASS
< 30mg
< 75mg
< 300mg
FAIL
> 30mg
> 75mg
> 300mg
5.6 - Standard PCP

STANDARD QUALITY FOR PCP
PASS
< 5 mg/kg (less than 5 ppm)
FAIL
> 5 mg/kg
AZO, formaldehyde and PCP tests shall be realized systematically simultaneously,

following below chart.
Recommendations by materials
Test
Natural
Fabric
Synthetic
Fabric
Coating/
Printing
Leather
Synthetic
Leather(PU/
PVC leather)
Test Method
Azodyes
Textile : EN 14362-1
Leather: ISO 17234-1/2
Formalde
hyde
Textile: ISO 14184-1

Leather: ISO 17226
PCP
DIN 53313
= test required
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 10/15
See
5.7 - Standard phthalates / PAHs
The KIABI standard is Free phthalates and Free PAHS (Polycyclic Aromatic
Hydrocarbons).
The research of phthalates and PAHS is realized on final product with all animations and
accessories, not on a fabric swatch.
The Kiabi operating consists to research the 14 phthalates below.

Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP)
Dibutyl phthalate (DBP)
Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP)
Diisononyl phthalate (DINP)
Diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP)
Di (n-octyl) phthalate (DNOP)
Diisobutyl phthalate (DIBP)
Dipentyl phthalate (DPP)
N-pentyl-isopentylphthalate (776297-69-9)
Diisopentylphthalate (605-50-5)
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, dipentylester, branched and linear (84777-06-0)
Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (117-82-8)
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-8-branched alkyl esters, C7-rich (DIHP)
1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched and linear alkyl esters (DHNUP)
On presence of phthalates, the result must be compared with the below table.
PASS
Not Detected
PENDING
0.1 %
FAIL
> 0.1 %
Need KIABI agreement
The percentage is calculated for each of the 14 phthalates
Three colours of one homogeneous material can be mixed for the test.
Example: one print of three colours on same article = 1 test
The percentage for each substance has to be calculated on the whole weight of the
final product.
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 11/15
See
The Kiabi operating consists to research the 8 PAHs below:
Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) CAS No 50-32-8
Benzo[e]pyrene (BeP) CAS No 192-97-2
Benzo[a]anthracene (BaA) CAS No 56-55-3
Chrysen (CHR) CAS No 218-01-9
Benzo[b]fluoranthene (BbFA) CAS No 205-99-2
Benzo[j]fluoranthene (BjFA) CAS No 205-82-3
Benzo[k]fluoranthene (BkFA) CAS No 207-08-9
Dibenzo[a,h]anthracene (DBAhA) CAS No 53-70-3
Three colours of one homogeneous material can be mixed for the test.
Example: one print of three colours on same article = 1 test
On presence of PAHs, the result must be compared with the below tables.
PASS
Not Detected
FAIL
Detected
The result is indicated for each PAHS.
Recommendations by materials
Test
Natural
Fabric
Phthalates
PAHS
Synthetic
Fabric
Coating/
Printing
Leather
Synthetic
Leather(PU/
PVC leather)
Plastics,
Rubber,
Foam
Test Method
EN 15777
ZEK 01.4-08
= test required
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 12/15
5.8 - Standard zippers
STANDARD QUALITY LEVEL FOR ZIPPERS

Synthetics slide fasteners
Largeur de la glissire / rsistance en Newton
Width of fastener chain / force in Newton
Rsistance du curseur la traction
Puller attachment test
Rsistance la traction transversale de la runion l'action du curseur
Closed end test
Rsistance la traction longitudinale des arrts l'action du curseur
Top stop test
Rsistance du botier du systme sparable a la traction longitudinale.
Open end fastener box test
Rsistance de la chane la traction transversale
Lateral strength test
Rsistance la traction transversale du systme sparable
Lateral strength test of open end attachment
Rsistance la traction transversale du systme de blocage du curseur
sur la glissire
Slider locking test
3,5 4,5
4,5 5,5
> 5,5
BS 3084
100
160
220
40
70
100
70
80
110
60
80
100
350
450
550
80
130
40
60
70
3,5 5,5
5,5 6,5
> 6,5
BS 3084
150
200
300
50
70
100
70
90
110
70
100
130
400
500
600
100
150
180
50
70
90
4 5,5
5,5 6,5
> 6,5
BS 3084
80
200
250
50
70
100
80
90
100
80
100
120
200
300
370
80
120
160
40
60
70
Metalics slide fasteners

Closed end test
Top stop test
sur la glissire
Slider locking test
Moulded slide fasteners

Closed end test
Top stop test
sur la glissire
Slider locking test
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 13/15
See
6. SPECIFIC OPERATING MODES
6.1 - Home tests for Essential products
The tests are done on finished garment, each colours shall be tested.
Equipement
Domestic machine like :
Brandt, Miele
Detergent type IEC
Method
Appearance after 3 domestic
washings and tumble dry
according to the care label of
the product.
Washed sample is compared to
unwashed sample.
Requirements
Satisfactory
Dimensional stability, colour

change and staining meet the
Kiabi requirements.
Weigh and add an extra load, to obtain a total lead of at least 2 kg.
Weigh 50 g of detergent for each washing cycle.
Choose the washing cycle relative to the care label
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 14/15
See
6.2 - Spirality after washing
The method which permits to determine spirality is the following:
- Measure the distance D (to nearest 1 mm) from the natural dried fold on the fabric
square to the inner edge of the seam for top items (see diagram).
For pants items, measure the distance D from the natural dried fold and the inside leg
seam.
On garments these measurements are made at the hem.
- Calculate the percentage spirality i.e : 100 x D / L
L corresponds to:
- underharm to hem length after washing for top items.
- inside leg seam after washing for pants items.
New side seam

Natural fold line after washing
Original inside leg seam
Original side seam
New inside leg seam

Natural fold line after washing
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
KIABI QUALITY NORMS
Indice
D
Page : 15/15
See
7. COLOR FASTNESS RATING
The bleeding is rated on three fibres only.
The first one is the main fibre of the fabric, the second and third fibres are selected according to
the chart.
1st Fibre
main material
2 ND
3 RD
Cotton / Flax
Wool
Polyester
Wool / Silk
Cotton
Polyester
Acetate / Triacetate/
Viscose
Wool
Polyester
Polyamide
Cotton
Wool
Polyester
Cotton
Wool
Acrylic
Cotton
Wool
Colour staining for products manufactured with several colours with one or more light colours
(ex: red and white), result shall be = 5
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25

Laboratory Tests

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Laboratory Tests

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LABORATORY TESTS

KIABI QUALITY NORMS

F03 Property of S.A.S. KIABI EUROPE reproduction and distribution forbidden

KIABI QUALITY NORMS

2. GENERAL REMARKS ON LABORATORY TESTS

2.1 - Tests request

2.2 - Tests invoice

2.3 - Tests report

2.4 - Tests reports spreading

3.1 - Mandatory tests

3.2 - Specific tests

4. KIABI QUALITY LEVELS

4.1 - Quality level Standard

4.2 - Quality level Essential products

5. LIST OF KIABI TESTS

5.1 - Standard quality level

5.2 - Standard tensile strength

5.3 - Standard tearing strength

5.4 - Standard azodyes

5.5 - Standard formaldehyde

5.6 - Standard PCP

5.7 - Standard phthalates / PAHS

5.8 - Standard zippers

6. SPECIFIC OPERATING MODES

6.1 - Home tests for Essential products

6.2 - Spirality after washing

7. COLOR FASTNESS RATING

F03 Property of S.A.S. KIABI EUROPE reproduction and distribution forbidden

KIABI QUALITY NORMS

2. GENERAL REMARKS ON LABORATORY TESTS

2.2 - Tests invoice

2.3 - Tests report

2.4 - Tests reports spreading

To the Kiabi Service Provider

To the Quality department

if the test shows a non-conformity

F03 Property of S.A.S. KIABI EUROPE reproduction and distribution forbidden

KIABI QUALITY NORMS

3.1 - Mandatory tests

3.2 - Specific tests

4. KIABI QUALITY LEVELS

4.2 - Quality level Essential products

F03 Property of S.A.S. KIABI EUROPE reproduction and distribution forbidden

KIABI QUALITY NORMS

5. LIST OF KIABI TESTS

Weight per square meters

Only for knit fabric

Yarn count (Metric yarn count)

Thread per unit length (Contexture)

To washing & drying

According to care label

Angular deviation (Irregularities of the pattern

Jacket & interlining

According to care label

COLOUR FASTNESS TO USE

F03 Property of S.A.S. KIABI EUROPE reproduction and distribution forbidden

KIABI QUALITY NORMS

Wash and Wear

Compulsory for Baby / children

Compulsory fot textile bedding

Compulsory for bedding items

EN 13758 UPF >40

Tensile strength (grab test method)

Tearing strength (Elmendorf method)