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Selvedge

Functions of selvedge:
To lock & prevent any fraying out of warp.
To prevent weft contraction of fabric.
To provide extra strength at the edges of the fabric so that they can
withstand the tensile & gripping forces during transportation through machines.
Different types of selvedges used in woven fabric:
The different types of selvedges used in woven fabric are given below:
1.

Both edge bounded selvedges or conventional selvedge (It is

produced on shuttle loom).


2.

One-end bounded selvedge. (Produced on rapier loom)

3.

Fringed selvedge (Produced on airjet, projectile loom etc).

4.

Leno selvedge.

5.

Tucked in selvedge (Produced on modern loom)

6.

Stitched selvedge.

7.

Adhesive bonded selvedge.

8.

Fused selvedge.

9.

Dummy selvedge.

10.

Twisted selvedge.

(a) Half twisted.


(b) Full twisted (most commonly used.)
11.

Combined selvedge.

(a) Fringe twisted selvedge.


(b) Fringe + dummy + Leno selvedge.
Waste due to selvedge:
Two types of waste:
1. Warp waste.
2. Weft waste.
Warp waste:
Dummy selvedge:

If dummy is in both side of the fabric than wastage is more. No of dummy


warp in each side are around 12. Dummy warp always do not come from the
warp beam, it comes from extra bobbin normally synthetic yarn. Dummy warp
waste% decreases with the no of warp in the fabric and also with the width of
the fabric.
Extra warp for the conventional selvedge or different warp in the
conventional selvedge is included in the warp beam during warping. And
conventional selvedge is not the part of the fabric. In case of modern selvedge no
extra warps are included in the warp beam during warping.
Weft waste:
1. Conventional selvedge:
The wastage due to conventional selvedge happens by the following three
reasons.
a. Breakage of weft.
b. Residual waste in pirn due to changing mechanism.
c. Initial wastage of pirn due to threading. Weft wastage% increases with
the width of the loom. Waste% increases with the coarseness of the
yarn and also with the small size of the pirn.
2. Fringed selvedge:
Projected out weft yarn in each side of the selvedge is about 1 cm. Waste%
increases with the PPI, with the coarseness of yarn. Waste% decreases with the
width of the fabric.
3. Tucked in selvedge:
Projected out weft yarn in each side of the selvedge is about 1.5 cm. Waste%
increases with the PPI.
4. Dummy selvedge:
Projected out weft yarn in each side of the selvedge is around 8 cm per
pick. So waste% increases with the PPI and also with the width of the fabric.

Calculation of waste:
Warp waste:
For example:
Number of extra warp = 12 2 = 24
Length of fabric = 10000 m

Count of extra warp = 10s (Ne)


Wt of warp waste = ?

12 2 10000 1.09
kg. = 14.12 kg.
840 10 2.2046
Weft waste:
Length of extended weft beyond fabric = 8 cm/pick
Wt =

PPI = 140, Fabric length = 20000 m, linear density of yarn = 34 tex =


= 17.36 Ne
Weight of weft waste = ?
Wt =

8 140 39.37 20000


kg. = 299.99 kg.
100 0.9144 840 17.36 2.2046

590.5
34

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