TLM

tlm
March/April 2010 £2.50

tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine
the travel & leisure magazine
MOUNTAIN HIGHS
Lakes and mountains holidays
WHALES AND WOWS
Author Joanne Harris in the Azores
GARDEN-BY-SEA
Maritime Kent
FLOAT YOUR BOAT
March/April 2010
Navigating Europe’s waterways

FAMILIES AT SEA
Cruise holidays with children
ISTANBUL
Cultured pearl
win
a £5,00
0c
luxury h ruise on a
ote
PLUS Plus lo l barge.
ts m
Golf in Tenerife, London’s South prizes … ore
Bank and Easter days out ideas
tlmthe travel and leisure magazine
from the
editor
Peter Ellegard
European Waterways
W
■ Read about cruising Europe’s canals and rivers – elcome to the new-
and WIN a six-night Burgundy waterways cruise look TLM.After
aboard a luxury hotel barge. See pages 25 and 30. many years as The
Travel & Leisure Magazine, we
4
contents
in the frame prize photographs
felt it was time for a change. So
we have given the magazine a
new identity, and freshened it up
with a contemporary design.
The content itself is very
much as before, reflecting what
6 getting to know lakes & mountains holidays you have told us you like to read.
In this issue, international
15 escape to Istanbul – European city of culture bestselling author Joanne Harris
21 in your flightbag what to take on the flight reveals why the Azores made
WIN – a handy set of 3 Fizbags, worth £27 such an impact when she visited
WIN – a set of 5 Back Roads Guides from DK Eyewitness Travel with her daughter.
READER OFFER – get a 20% online DISCOUNT off Back Roads Guides Our cover feature highlights
22 in your suitcase what to pack for your holiday ever-popular lakes and
WIN – one of 3 Rockstar MP3 speakers worth £17.99 each mountains holidays, while we
WIN – one of 3 waterproof zoom lens camera cases also focus on exploring Europe’s
READER OFFER – get a 10% DISCOUNT on Cocorose pumps waterways.That will whet your
appetite for our star prize – a
25 let’s try European canal and river holidays fabulous £5,000 luxury hotel
30 competition WIN – a £5,000 luxury hotel barge cruise in France barge holiday in Burgundy,
courtesy of European
33 travel update travel news
Waterways.
36 all aboard cruising for families + cruise news We also look at European City
42 off the beaten track Chocolat author Joanne Harris in the Azores of Culture Istanbul, cruising
holidays for families, golf on
49 pack your clubs golf in Tenerife
Tenerife, plus other regular
56 competition WIN – one of five copies of Joanne Harris’s new novel, favourites, including many other
blueeyed boy competitions and special offers.
coming next what’s in store in the next issue On a personal note, I was
thrilled to be named Travel
57 on your doorstep maritime Kent Photographer of the Year for
62 london life discovering London’s South Bank + London news 2009 recently in the inaugural
67 best for hotel review – Cliveden Travel Press Awards.Three of
the winning five photographs had
70 out & about what’s on outside London been printed in TLM, underlining
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READER OFFER – cut out the attached voucher and enjoy free child entry to Legoland photography as well as writing.
To further underscore that, this
EDITORIAL TEAM: Editor Peter Ellegard Editorial assistant Julie Thompson Writers Peter Ellegard, Julie Thompson, Joanne Harris,
Dave Richardson, Sara Macefield, Jane Archer and Melissa Shales Design Nick Blaxill Advertising Team Nick Page and Helen Hopkins
issue sees the launch of a brand
Production June Barnard Publisher Terry Stafford Digital Publisher Peter Lewsey Published bi-monthly by TLM Media Limited new photography section called
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Front cover photo: Karnten Werbung/Franz Gerdl
March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 3

in the frame ■ award-winning pictures
■ Karst peaks, Yangshuo, China

All photos: Peter Ellegard
TLM editor’s prize pics

Now show us ■ Feluccas
on the Nile,
your best photos! Luxor, Egypt
H
ot-air balloons soar
over karst peaks in
Yangshuo, in China’s
Guangxi province;
cave rock formations
are lit up like a fan-
tasy scene in nearby Guilin; tradi-
tional feluccas sail into the sunset
at Luxor on Egypt’s Nile river;
and tornadic storm clouds take on ■ Reed Flute Cave, Guilin, China
angry shapes and colours in
America’s Midwest.
These five photographs – the ■ Green hail
Nile and tornado cloud ones core cloud,
appeared in TLM – earned TLM Kansas
editor, Peter Ellegard, the title of
Travel Photographer of the Year
in the 2009 Travel Press Awards.
They now form the first
gallery for our new In the Frame
photography showcase. Look out
for more in the next issue.
● To enter your photographs for
consideration, visit the TLM
website, www.tlm-magazine.co.uk,
and click on the In the Frame ■ Supercell cloud, Kansas
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4 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

getting to know ■ lakes and mountains holidays

HIGH
DAYS
and holidays
Europe’s lakes and mountains have been a popular
summer draw for British visitors since the Sherlock
Holmes era. But these days, alpine holidays appeal as
much to the active-minded as for scenic highs. For
Dave Richardson, it’s an elementary attraction
I
was looking forward to a civilised where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, bored
holiday in a civilised country, full with his creation, tried to kill off
of contented cows munching Sherlock Holmes during a tussle with
away in green meadows, and vil- his arch enemy, Professor Moriarty.
lages with chocolate box houses. But as fans of the sleuth know, it
Those were my thoughts as I set- didn’t happen. Sir Arthur had to bring
tled down for a week in the Swiss Holmes back from the dead by popu-
resort of Meiringen, but I had to lar demand, but a plaque marks the
Jungfrau Railways/swiss-image.ch
reflect we were rather mad, too. Why spot of the tussle on a remote ledge
else would we scramble up a moun- above the falls. Holmes and Watson
tainside to celebrate the “death” of a had set out from a hotel called the
fictitious character? Englischer Hof, now the grand Belle
Elementary, my dear Watson. The Epoque style Park Hotel du Sauvage,
Reichenbach Falls above Meiringen are and this is where I stayed.
■ The Kleine Scheidegg and the imposing Eiger north wall

■ Trekking near Chamonix
■ Golden Pass panoramic trains serve

Montreux, Interlaken and Lucerne
TUI
■ Chapel by Lake
Konigssee, Germany
German National Tourist Office/Andreas Kaster
■ The Switzerland Tourism/Robert Boesch
Chamonix Tourism
Glacier
Express in
Switzerland's
Rhine gorge
A holiday in the Alps was the height of fashion in the ordinated with main line trains and lake steamers. Cable
19th Century, often on doctors’ orders. Grand hotels cars and rack railways glide effortlessly up mountains,
were built along lakesides to attract the gentry, who making them accessible to all.
dined in elegant coffee houses and spent their evenings
at the opera or listening to an orchestra. Today it is still Families
possible to soak up this refined atmosphere, at lake Switzerland, Austria and Italy are the big three for lakes
resorts such as Interlaken, Montreux and Lucerne in and mountains holidays, and scenery is the big attrac-
Switzerland. tion. It appeals particularly to empty nesters who like a
Switzerland is a particularly good choice if you don’t quiet holiday in beautiful surroundings with maybe a
want to spend time in a car or a bus, as the public trans- bit of culture thrown in as well – but it’s a mistake to
port system works so well. Narrow gauge trains take think you have to be 50-plus to enjoy it.
you to the top of even the highest mountains (including This type of holiday is also being chosen by an
the Jungfrau, at 3,454m, or 11,332ft), in a timetable co- increasing number of families, who are keen on activi-
ties as well as views. Tour operator Inghams has come
up with economically-priced family holidays including
Eastern Europe guided walks, an overnight stay in an Austrian mountain
hut, mountain biking and archery, and appeals to keen
Choosing a destination outside the eurozone could save you a lot of money, and cyclists with another tour along the German and Swiss
Eastern Europe has plenty of appeal. Head for the Carpathian mountains in banks of Lake Constance.
Romania and you can lap up the Dracula legend – and spot brown bears around High-adrenaline sports are also increasingly popular,
the resort of Brasov. with tour operators such as Explore offering trekking,
Bulgaria is one of the best-value countries in Europe, and has modern, well mountain biking, rock climbing and optional paraglid-
developed ski resorts such as Bansko as a base for mountain exploration. Hungary ing, ice climbing and rafting around Mont Blanc. The
doesn’t have high mountains but it does have the “inland sea” of Lake Balaton, holiday is based at the French Alpine resort of
surrounded by vineyards and is close to Budapest. Heviz, near Lake Balaton, has the Chamonix, close to the Italian and Swiss borders.
largest thermal lake in Europe where you can enjoy the healing waters. But most of us prefer our activities to be more seden-
The High Tatras mountains form the border between Poland (Zakopane is the tary, and we like to enjoy them in increasing comfort,
main mountain centre) and Slovakia (Tatranska Lomnica), a great area for hiking. possibly with a spa treatment included to soothe those
Poland’s historic former capital of Krakow can be reached from either resort. aching limbs. Crystal Holidays has a selection of hotels
Montenegro is a tiny but very scenic Balkan country, where the mountain resort it calls The Finest, and some of them are true Alpine
of Kolasin is surrounded by virgin forests yet within easy reach of the sea. gems. Examples in Austria are Hotel Klosterbräu in
Seefeld, a former monastery built in 1516 with gourmet
dining in four restaurants; and Landhaus zu Appesbach

in St Wolfgang, a former private country house fre- I certainly plan to return to Switzerland soon, where
quented by Edward VII with a salon full of English I got such a deep suntan that people thought I’d been to
newspapers. Not the tabloids, presumably… the Mediterranean, not Meiringen. Beware those con-
tented cows, however – one mad beast pursued me
Indoor entertainment down a mountain path with bell jangling, but that’s
You’ll find plenty to do even if the weather isn’t kind, another story.
as most lakes and mountains resorts were developed
with skiers in mind and have plenty of bars, restaurants
and indoor entertainment from bowling to cinemas.
The most popular resorts in Austria include Kitzbuhel, MAIN RESORTS
Seefeld and Mayrhofen in the Tyrol, with the city of AUSTRIA
Innsbruck within reach for a day out.
The Italian lakes tend to be more popular than Seefeld One of the most popular Alpine resorts, it is
TUI
mountain resorts in summer, especially Garda (close to easily reached from Innsbruck. Take a ride in a horse-
■ Lake Garda
Verona for Roman ruins and the opera) and Como (near drawn carriage or on the Rosshutte Mountain Railway.
Milan’s great fashion shops). When the sun shines and
the skies are clear you’ll want to be basking by a lake Obergurgl This is one of the highest villages in
or hiking in the mountains, but as there are usually Austria at over 1,900m (6,234ft). View Tiefenbach and
some wet days on this type of holiday being near a city Rattenbach glaciers using cable cars, chair lifts and
is an advantage. mountain paths.
Chamonix, in France, will always be very popular
because it’s close to Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest Mayrhofen This is a really lively as well as pretty
mountain at 4,810m (15,780ft). Activities here include resort – proof that having a good time isn’t just après-
climbing, horse-riding, 18-hole golf and taking a rack ski! It’s on the floor of the Ziller valley, with plenty of
railway to view the Sea of Ice glacier. walking and adventure sports.
The Alps are the most popular choice for lakes and
mountains, especially as you can travel by rail or car as Kitzbuhel A medieval walled town roughly halfway
an alternative to flying. But Norway also has plenty of
“It’s a between Salzburg and Innsbruck, it is a major centre
followers, and it’s no longer significantly more expen-
sive.
mistake to for festivals and close to Schwarzsee lake.
Here you can admire the azure blue of the deep sea think you Zell am Zee Austria’s leading lake resort is right on
fjords set against the mountains, at resorts such as the shore of the Zeller, overlooked by Schmittenhohe
Alesund. Nearby Geirangerfjord is one of the most have to be mountain. It is handy for excursions around Austria.
beautiful in Norway, and as Alesund is on the
Hurtigruten coastal shipping route, you can easily move
50-plus to St Wolfgang Along with Fuschl and St Gilgen, this
on up the coast as far as the Arctic Circle in the north, enjoy it” is one of the top resorts in Austria’s Salzkammergut
or Bergen to the south. lakes region, near Salzburg. The Sound of Music was
Oberammergau ■ The Oberammergau

Passion Play
Passion Play
It happens only once every 10 years, but if
you book up quickly it might be possible to
combine a lakes and mountains holiday with
a visit to this very special event in a small
village in Bavaria, southern Germany.
In 1633, the villagers of Oberammergau were
beset by plague and sought divine
intervention.They survived, and the Passion
Play was first performed the following year
as thanks. It has been performed every
decade since then and now attracts over
500,000 visitors each time.
Dertours
The actors are still amateurs from the

village, and the play is performed on an open
air stage. More than 100 performances are with a break for dinner. The village is 30 Accommodation and tickets are in short
scheduled between May and October, miles from the Austrian border, and can be supply, so enquire now.
starting at 2.30pm and finishing at 10.30pm visited from Austrian or German resorts. www.oberammergau-passion.com

Austrian National Tourist Office/Pigneter
filmed around here, and St Wolfgang stages regular Interlaken One of Europe’s most elegant lake ■ UNESCO-listed Hallstatt
concerts. The nearby picture-postcard lakeside village resorts, it’s still favoured by Europe’s elite. Enjoy
of Hallstatt is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. cruises on lakes Thun and Brienz.
Salzburg The birthplace of Mozart is set along the Montreux At the eastern end of Lake Geneva,
Salzach river and one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. Montreux is famous for its jazz and film festivals.
Salzburg also has connections with The Sound of Explore the lake on its Swiss and French sides.
Music, and days out to the mountains and lakes are
easily arranged. Zermatt Overlooked by the Matterhorn, this is one
of the best-loved and most dramatically-situated Swiss
Innsbruck The capital of the Tyrol is a great historic resorts.
and cultural centre. Wandering around the old town is a
delight and you’re still close to the mountains. ITALY
Bad Kleinkirchheim The home ski resort of Lake Garda The most poplar of the Italian lakes has
Austrian legend Franz Klammer, this pretty little a wide choice of resorts including Simione, Desenzano,
Carinthia town is also popular in summer for its hot Bardolino and Limone. Historic Verona is less than one
springs, mountain biking and hiking, plus nearby hour from resorts around the south of the lake.
Millstatter lake.
Lake Como Less busy than Garda, it has beautiful
SWITZERLAND lakeside towns including Tremezzo, Cadenabbia,
Bellagio and Menaggio. Be sure to visit the botanic
Davos A haunt of royalty and the annual World gardens at Villa Carlotta.
Economic Forum, Davos enjoys a beautiful setting and
good excursion possibilities. It’s easy to get around by Selva One of Italy’s leading mountain resorts, Selva is
train and cable car. overlooked by the Dolomites. You’re close to the
Austrian border with similar architecture on both sides.
Rhone-Alpes Tourisme, France
Grindelwald One of the most popular of the Bernese

Oberland resorts, it is overlooked by the Eiger and a FRANCE
good base to go up the Jungfrau by train.
Chamonix Overlooked by Mont Blanc, it’s a
Wengen Here you’re surrounded by towering great place for activities as well as scenery. Cable
peaks, including the Eiger, Jungfrau and Monch. cars and mountain railways will get you up the
Road traffic is not permitted but it’s well served by mountains, and you can also stay in the quieter
mountain railways. nearby resort of Les Houches. ■ Ibex in France’s Haute-Savoie

■ Jungfrau Railway, Switzerland ■ Hikers at Lake d’Emosson

in the French Alps
Rhone-Alpes Tourisme/J-L Rigaux

Jungfrau Railways
Talloires This is one of France’s most attractive
lakeside resorts, a historic town on the shore of Lake european lakes and mountains facts
Annecy in the Haute-Savoie Department of the Rhone-
Alps region. Activities include horse-riding, hiking and Getting there
boating. Geneva is close by, so you can find Swiss Resorts in the main destinations are well-served by low-cost airlines with
traditions such as alphorns in this area. many regional departures, especially to Geneva (Swiss and French
resorts), Zurich (Swiss resorts), Milan and Verona (Italian resorts).
Budapest and Krakow also have good flight connections.
GERMANY A disadvantage of flying is that it can then take two or more hours to
reach some resorts, by car or coach.Travelling throughout by train is a
Garmisch The best-known resort on the Bavarian viable alternative, especially for France and Switzerland, changing stations
side of the Alps, it is overlooked by the country’s in Paris after arriving on Eurostar.You can also travel by car, but an
highest mountain, the Zugspitze (2,962m, or 9,718ft). overnight stop en route is recommended.
Tirol Werbung/Robert Gruber

From the top you can see four countries.
When to go
Berchtesgaden Overlooked by Watzmann Any time from Easter to the end of September, but
mountain, it is close to Salzburg in Austria. Hitler’s pack some warm clothes in spring (when the
retreat at Eagle’s Nest is a scenic and historic spot. wildflowers bloom) and autumn. Resorts can be
crowded in July and August, especially if close to
cities.Also pack warm clothes if venturing to
SLOVENIA mountain summits, even in high summer.
■ Tyrol
Kranjska Gora Just across the borders with Austria and Tour operators
Italy, this is the leading mountain resort in a small country Inghams celebrates its 75th anniversary with holidays to 19 countries.A
that was formerly part of Yugoslavia. The Julian Alps family of four can have a one-week holiday in Obergurgl,Austria in July and
provide a dramatic backdrop, and Lake Jasna is close by. August for a total of £1,974 (020 8780 6680, www.inghams.co.uk).
Thomson has a new all-inclusive offer at Lake Garda in Italy from £579 for
Bled This is one of the most attractive lake towns in a week’s stay (0871 230 8181, www.thomsonlakes.co.uk).Thomson’s
Europe, and a great base for walking or rides in a sister company, Crystal Holidays, has “The Finest” hotels at prices from
horse-drawn carriage. Visit the church on a tiny island £459 for a week at Parc Hotel Germano in Bardolino, Lake Garda (0871
in the lake, reached by gondola. 231 5661, www.crystallakes.co.uk). Explore’s Mont Blanc Activity Week
holiday in Chamonix, France, costs from £682 (0845 013 1537,
www.explore.co.uk). Great Rail Journey’s Jungfrau Express rail holiday to
NORWAY Meiringen, Switzerland, costs from £1,598 for 10 days (01904 521 936,
www.greatrail.com). Dertour (020 7290 1104, www.dertour.co.uk)
Ulvik This is the main resort on spectacular offers a holiday combining Berchtesgaden in Germany with the
Hardangerfjord, in a very peaceful setting. Spring Oberammergau Passion Play, from £1,089 for seven nights. Ffestiniog Travel
wildflowers are spectacular. (01766 772957, www.festtravel.co.uk) has a 14-night escorted Swiss
Lakes and Mountains tour from £1,750.
Alesund Renowned for its art nouveau architecture,
this town on the coastal cruising route is a great base Tourist information
for day trips. Switzerland: www.myswitzerland.com; Austria: www.austria.info;
Italy: www.italiantouristboard.co.uk; France:
Dave Richardson has been writing about the highs and www.franceguide.com/uk; Germany: www.germany-tourism.co.uk;
lows of the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is a Norway: www.visitnorway.com; Slovenia: www.slovenia.info
big fan of Europe's glorious lakes and mountain scenery and
frequently pays return visits.

escape to ■ istanbul
Turkish
delight
Marble and minarets, European chic and Asian spice, great age and astounding beauty make Istanbul
one of the most exotic places on earth. Melissa Shales fell in love with the city many years ago
I
f my arms were just a few inches longer I could My hotel, the Mas Evi (Blue House) is one of a posi-
touch the floodlit minarets of the Blue Mosque as tive army of restored Ottoman mansions in the old city.
I hang out of the window, drinking in the impossi- In the pavement cafe below me, a solitary dervish is
bly romantic scene surrounding me. I’ve been to whirling in stately, rather sad splendour, his religious rit-
Istanbul countless times but I never tire of being ual demoted to a tourist attraction as the backpackers
here. After all, this is ancient Byzantium, imperial around him ignore the performance in favour of the
Constantinople, the place where the Roman Empire honey-flavoured nargile (hubble-bubble pipes), lounging
morphed into the louche decadence of the Byzantine back on carpeted benches like denim-clad pashas.
Empire. As Istanbul, it was the great imperial capital of A small, rather shaky sign points the way to the
the Ottoman Empire. Mozaik Müzesi, a vast mosaic floor which is all that
This was the place that officially introduced now remains of Emperor Justinian’s Imperial Palace.
Christianity to the western world as a state religion
rather than an underground cult. It was, for nearly 1,000
years, the capital of the Islamic world and it was the end
of the Silk Road, the greatest trade route on the planet.
Istanbul is the only major city that stands at the edge of
two continents, one foot in Europe and one in Asia,
divided by the Bosphorus. It is thousands of years old.
And it is stunningly, staggeringly beautiful, if ragged
around the edges.
Turkish Culture and Tourism Office
■ Topkapi Palace

■ The Grand Bazaar

■ Whirling dervishes

■ Inside the Aya Sofya
Over to my right are the heaped ochre domes of beyond, from the gates of Babylon to the world’s first
Justinian’s greatest masterpiece, the 6th century basilica peace treaty, signed in ancient Egypt. All this history
of Aya Sofya, church then mosque and now museum. and more just in Sultanahmet, one tiny corner of this
I can’t see it from where I am but a few minutes’ huge city; it is literally breath-taking.
walk to my right is the sprawling Topkapi, the Ottoman Across the square, where I can see the flicker of the
Imperial Palace, which takes at least a morning to son-et-lumière gearing up for the French show, is the
explore on its own. It’s a sort of babushka doll of a place
with courtyards within courtyards, pavilions tucked
within those and maze-like suites of luxurious rooms
“This is a behind small insignificant doors. In its day, it was, quite
literally, the centre of the universe, home, court and gov-
city that is ernment – with many thousands living and working here
at the hub of an empire which stretched from the gates
rediscovering of Vienna across North Africa and deep into Asia.
itself ” Down the hill, in the outermost courtyard of the
Topkapi, the Archaeology Museum houses another great
treasury of ancient wealth from across Anatolia and
Getting steamy
Spas are all the rage, but in Istanbul, head instead for the hammam, a ■ A street
traditional Turkish bath.The two best are both in the old city – Cemberlitas, vendor in
built by Turkey’s greatest architect, Sinan, in 1584 and Cagaloglu built in 1781. Istanbul
Sexes are separated, but the experience is very public, with you stripped
down to a small pair of briefs and scrubbed ferociously by cackling bath
attendants who alternate the loofah with buckets of water before an
optional (vigorous) massage. Subtle it ain’t, but an experience not to be
missed – absolutely. Great fun, and you feel amazing afterwards.
● www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr; www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr
Melissa Shales

■ The Aya Sofya
Colin Antill
is now a museum
Yerebatan Sarayi (Underground Palace), actually a

Byzantine water cistern of vast dimensions and grace,
much of it built from recycled classical stone so the
soaring columns have unlikely inscriptions. It is a popu-
10 things to do in the evening
lar venue for concerts. 1. Have dinner at the Çicek Pasaji, off Istiklal
It should be busy this year – Istanbul is in a fever- Pasaji, Beyoglu – lots of cheap and cheerful
pitch of artistic excitement, as one of Europe’s three small restaurants and gypsy violinists.
Cities of Culture for 2010. It was slow to get into gear, Touristy but fun.
but now the calendar is bulging with special events 2. Son-et-lumière in Sultanahmet Square
from photo and art exhibitions to concerts, – the history of Istanbul with a
open-air festivals and several new museums frightfully important-sounding
including Nobel Prize winner Orhan Pamuk’s commentary.
Museum of Innocence (tied in with his book of 3.Turkish night in the Galata Tower – a Melissa Shales
the same name). typical Turkish feast, belly dancers and
The change in the city has been palpable the best views in the city in the ultimate ■ Sis kebabs
since I first start coming here about 20 years tourist attraction.
ago. It’s a strange two-way tug. Even while the 4. Go open-air summer clubbing at Reina on the
more religious government is quietly encourag- shores of the Bosphorus, with the Istanbul in-crowd.
ing fashionistas to adopt the veil (albeit an 5. Have a night at the opera or ballet at the Ataturk Cultural Centre,Taksim
extremely glamorous version in silks and satins), (www.idobale.com).
the artistic community is noticeably breaking free 6. Head down to Kumkapı for a cluster of over 50 small fish restaurants, plus
of the strong Islamic tradition which kept it bound the inevitable wandering musicians.
for centuries. 7. Cross to the Asian shore for a different view at upmarket seafood
The arrival of wonderful new museums and gal- restaurant, Kordon, in the Çengelköy neighbourhood.
leries, such as Istanbul Modern and the Sakıp 8. Join the Turks at a local meyhane for a night of traditional mezze, sing-along
Sabancı Museum, and festivals including the fasıl and camaraderie that gets louder with every new bottle of raki.
Bienniale, Contemporary Istanbul (each November) 9. 360, Angelique and Vogue are the places to be seen sipping a cocktail – they
and the City of Culture itself have burst open creative all have great views as well.
floodgates, just as the revival of the Turkish economy 10. Babylon is fast becoming one of the great names of the club world,
has transformed the modern city, creating a new sky- attracting international DJs and live acts for late, late nights.
scraper business centre filled with plate glass and slick
cocktail bars in the eastern districts beyond Taksim.
This is a city that is rediscovering itself, hour by hour,

■ The Bosphorus ■ Istanbul’s

at Ortakoy underground
cistern

Anatolian Sky Holidays
and watching it flex its wings is truly fascinating.

One slight downside to this is that while Turkey is istanbul facts
still good value (outside the eurozone), prices have risen
steeply. Getting there is cheaper than ever with the When to go
advent of low-cost flights and there are still plenty of As a major city, there is something good
back-street cafes where you can get a kebab for a couple going on at any time of year, but the
of lire. However if you want the views, Ottoman court best times are in spring and autumn.
cuisine or the increasing array of chic designer restau-
Melissa Shales
rants and clubs that grace the new city around Istiklal Getting there
Caddesi and Taksim or the shores of the Bosphorus, Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) and ■ Mehmet the
expect to pay international prices for jetset pleasures. Pegasus (www.flypgs.com) both have Conqueror
It’s worth splashing out. While the humble kebab low-cost flights into Sabiha Gökçen
might dominate, Turkish cuisine is one of the great culi- Airport on the Asian shore;Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com) costs
nary traditions of the world. The aubergine is also ubiq- slightly more but flies into Atatürk International on the European shore.
uitous, but Ottoman chefs had 150 different ways of UK tour operators offering short breaks to Istanbul include Anatolian
dealing with it. Whether you choose to eat köfte (meat- Sky (www.anatoliansky.co.uk), Classic Collection Holidays
balls) at Hamdi’s near the spice market or sup in style at (www.classic-collection.co.uk),The Discovery Collection
360 with its trendy international fusion menu and eclec- (www.discovery-collection.com), and Istanbul-based Exclusive Travel
tic club nights, you can find an element of theatre along Turkey (www.exclusivetravelturkey.com).
with your meal.
The same goes for shopping. In the city filled with Accommodation
the world’s finest flirts and greatest traders, you could If you want to be conveniently located for sightseeing and stay in a
visit one of the many modern malls in the posher sub- charming small hotel, look at staying in the Sultanahmet. If you prefer
urbs but it’s not nearly so much fun as a trip to the spice somewhere convenient for restaurants and nightlife or the larger,
market or the Grand Bazaar for tea and haggling. glossier hotels, head for Beyoglu (the new city).To escape from the
Wander the alleyways between the baskets of lucky blue crowds with a little luxury, look at one of the boutique hotels down
beads, mounds of saffron and peppercorns and sugary near the water on the Bosphorus.
lokum (Turkish Delight), gleaming silver jewellery, ● www.smallhotels.com.tr
leather bags in a kaleidoscope of colours and fake
designer labels. And everywhere a magical fantasy of More information
intricately patterned rugs from all corners of Anatolia, Turkish Culture and Tourism Office: www.gototurkey.co.uk
souvenirs with memories to last a lifetime. Istanbul City of Culture 2010: www.en.istanbul2010.org
Istanbul travel guide: www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/Istanbul
London-based Melissa Shales is thoroughly spoiled, writing
about the Mediterranean culture, the great African outdoors
and history everywhere. She is also chairman of the British
Useful Reading
Guild of Travel Writers. Istanbul (DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide) by Melissa Shales: £7.99.

in your ■ flightbag
Bags of use No more lines

Made especially for travel,
the new lineless® to go set
from Dr Brandt Skin Care
arry your duty- is a range of products with
C free shopping and

holiday souvenirs
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beach in stylish looking skin anytime and
fashion while help- anywhere. Including a
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use and available in hand- Keeping your essential gadgets charged up while on
held or shoulder bag style. holiday no longer means having to take numerous
With twice the capac- money and credit cards. £4.10, the Big Shopper is large chargers with you – the new V-
ity, the Big Shopper is The bags come in a £4.95 and the Fizpouch is Man Power Pack from Varta is an
ideal for taking beach variety of designs. Choose £17.95. ideal, pocket-sized solution.
towels and flip flops to the Zebra print, Leopard ● To WIN an Original Lightweight and stylish, the
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in your ■ suitcase
Hair today, gone

tomorrow
Rock your world
All women want an easy, fuss-free way to remove
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let’s try ■ european canal and river holidays
Slow
boats
Waterways are perfect for holidays at a leisurely pace. Jane Archer examines
the options of being your own captain or lazing aboard a luxury hotel barge,
and where you can go messing about on Europe’s rivers and canals
am balancing on a floating jetty in the dark If a week messing about on rivers appeals, there
I
trying to unlock the door to the boat that has are two kinds of boating holidays to pick from;
become my home this week. If only I had a which you choose depends on how adventurous you
torch, but needless to say, it was the one thing are feeling.
I never even thought to pack. If a kind There are self-drive boats, like I was on, where
Frenchman in a nearby boat had not come to you are given a quick lesson in operation and navi-
rescue me and my family, our trip might have gation and then sent off to explore the local rivers
come to a sorry – as in wet – end. Instead, it was and canals, or luxurious hotel barges where all you
the start of a fabulously relaxing holiday, one have to do is relax and enjoy.
where we literally watched the world go by as we These pretty little boats have mostly been built
Orient-Express
cruised from town to village, tying up as and when using the hulls of barges that used to carry goods on
the fancy took us. Europe’s waterways. You’ll have seen one if you
■ Sailing along a tree-lined canal with Afloat in France

European Waterways
Orient-Express
■ Approaching a lock ■ Be as lazy or as active as you want on a hotel barge
European Waterways
■ Self-drive boats give you
freedom of the waterways
■ Lunch on deck
watched Rick Stein’s French Odyssey on BBC2, when
tips he cooked his way along the Canal du Midi on

European Waterway’s Rosa and Anjodi. That’s the life!
● When packing, bear in mind that Self-drive boating holidays

cabins on self-drive boats and hotel Self-drive boats are brilliant for friends and families
barges are compact with not much who like the freedom of the open river and are happy
European Waterways
storage space. catering for themselves. They come in all sizes, sleep-
● Some companies offering waterways ing from two to 12 people and have various levels of
holidays are not bonded so your comfort, for instance some have en-suite bathrooms
holiday is not protected if something and electric flush toilets – believe me, much more
goes wrong.The best advice is to preferable than the usual pump-action loos.
pay by credit card as your money ■ Cabins are compact Being in charge of your own boat sounds daunting,
will be refunded in case of a but it’s easy, especially as you amble along at a sedate 6-
company failure.The same advice 7km an hour. Most rivers have locks, but many are
applies if you fly from the UK. manned and others are automatic so you just push a few
● If negotiating locks doesn’t appeal, ask buttons and hey presto. Navigational channels are clear-
your boat company to recommend a ly marked in the rivers and on the maps supplied so you
lock-free river.There are a few. can’t even get lost or end up in a river bank.
● Don’t expect to travel far or fast. I The only slightly tricky thing is docking, which
spent one week on a one-way requires team work between the captain and rope man
cruise, averaging about five hours’ (or woman), who needs to be agile enough to leap off as
sailing a day. It took the taxi that the boat comes towards the bank. It sounds scary but
Le Boat
picked me up at the end less than you soon get the hang of it.
two hours to get back to base. ■ Enjoy the slow pace Galleys are small but equipped with the basics, such
as a gas hob, oven and kettles. It’s fun to mix and match

■ Costs may
Le Boat
include bike hire
what it costs
Prices for self-drive boating holidays usually include
towels and linen, and free parking for your car for
the week.Travel to the base to collect your boat,
plus fuel, meals, drinks, excursions and bike hire are
all extras, and you might have to pay mooring fees
in busy places.
You’ll also have to take out damage waiver cover
or leave a deposit when you collect the boat.
Hotel barge operators include all meals, drinks,
use of onboard bikes and scheduled excursions in
the price so there is nothing more to pay unless you
go horse-riding, play golf or do some other activity.
Travel from the UK to and from the pick-up
point – usually a hotel or railway station – is extra.
Tips for the crew are usually optional; from 3% to
Le Boat
7% of the cruise cost is recommended.
– self-cater one evening, moor up outside a riverside lock, or just have a walk if you prefer.
restaurant another and have a break from the washing up. On your DIY boating holiday, you can moor up and
go exploring or have a lazy few days sunbathing on the
Hotel barges vessel. You can carry bikes on the boats; most compa-
If you prefer a more luxurious holiday, with someone to nies have them for hire or bring your own. Or maybe go
captain the boat, do the cooking and plan excursions, a horse riding, play golf and visit local markets. It is the
hotel barge holiday has your name on it. ultimate in a freedom holiday.
Barges usually hold between four and 12 people. You
can book a cabin as an individual or couple, but they are Who goes where?
also perfect for anniversaries – such as a milestone France has 10,000km of navigable waterways – both
birthday or wedding celebration – as you can charter the rivers and canals – and is the most popular spot for
boat and bring along family and friends. In this case, DIY boating in Europe. You can enjoy gastronomy
you will be able to make changes to the schedule, stay- cruising the Canal du Midi, take in seaside resorts in
ing longer here maybe, or missing going there. the Carmargue, play golf in the Charente, and discover
Hotel barges are all about luxury and personal serv- French/German culture in Alsace-Lorraine. Belgium,
ice. There’s a chef to conjure up gourmet meals, fine Holland, Italy and Germany are less popular but all
wines are served with meals and there is an open bar, so have their fair share of waterways if you want some-
no charge for drinks. thing different.
Le Boat, part of TUI Travel, has DIY boating holi- “Hotel
What to do? days in all these places, mostly one week, cruising one
On a hotel barge or self-drive boating holiday you can way, but you can add seven days and return to the origi- barges are all
be as active or as lazy as you wish.
Most hotel barge operators lay on daily excursions to
nal base. Short-break boating holidays were launched in
2009 and are a great way to get a taste for this type of
about luxury
chateaux, vineyards, private gardens or museums, and
you can go or not as the mood takes you. They also
holiday.
Boating Europe has both DIY cruisers and
and personal
carry bicycles so you can get off and pedal to the next Penichette barges, which are small self-drive barges, and service”

Orient-Express
■ Afloat in France’s Napoleon under way
also hotel barges in France, Holland and Italy. For

something different, Hoseasons has DIY boating holi- european canal and river holiday facts
days on the Mazurian Lakes in Poland, sailing along
canals and rivers, and through forests, as well as the When to go
favourite places in Western Europe. The boating season generally runs from March to November. Obviously,
France is also the leading destination for hotel barge summer months will be the warmest, especially in the South of France.
holidays. European Waterways has barges in several
regions (but Burgundy and the Canal du Midi are the What to pack
most popular) and also in Holland, Italy, Belgium, Hotel barges are informal so pack
Germany and Luxembourg. New this year are cruises what you feel comfortable in. If you’re
from Venice along the Bianca Canal to Mantua, visiting going on a self-drive boating holiday, a
European Waterways
Verona on the way, on new barge La Bella Vita. pair of non-slip shoes will be useful.
Afloat in France is part of Orient-Express and, as the You might like to bring some food
name suggests, is only in France – in Burgundy, from home, but it’s easy to pick up
Franche-Comté, the Rhône Valley and Provence. provisions as you cruise.A small
For the ultimate in exclusive, check out Saint Louis torch to fit in the handbag is also
Barge – literally one barge with room for six passengers highly recommended! Small suitcases are easiest to store on the boats.
and four crew that sails six-night cruises on the
Gironde, between Toulouse and Bordeaux. Great for Sample holidays
charters but individuals can book it as well. ● Le Boat (0844 463 3594; www.leboat.co.uk) has cruises on a six-
person Caprice boat on the Canal du Midi in France in June from
£547 per person based on four sharing, excluding travel from the
UK.
● European Waterways (01784 482439; www.gobarging.com) offers

six nights in a junior suite on L’Impressionniste in Burgundy from
£2,490 in May and June.
● A six-person charter on the Saint Louis Barge (+ 33 685 95 25 41;

www.saintlouisbarge.com) costs €16,900 (about £15,250), which
works out at €2,817 (£2,540) per person.
Other boat and barge holiday operators

Boating Europe: 01756 701200; www.boatingeurope.com or
www.hotelbarges.co.uk
Orient-Express
Hoseasons: 0844 847 1356; www.hoseasons.co.uk

Afloat in France: 0845 077 2222; www.afloatinfrance.com
Minervois Cruisers: 01926 811842; www.minervoiscruisers.com
■ You can even take a dip on some craft

competition ■ hotel barge cruise
■ Cruising on the Art de Vivre
WIN a £5,000
six-night cruise
for two aboard a luxury hotel barge in Burgundy
with European f the thought of leisurely cruising along a canal in The hotel barges accommodate between four and 12
I
Waterways Burgundy in the lap of luxury with a gourmet passengers and are ideal for people looking for either an
chef and all meals and wine included appeals, individual cruise with other like-minded people, or for
then why not enter this competition to win a fabu- those wanting a whole barge charter for a family or
lous six-night hotel barge cruise – courtesy of group of friends. All vessels are fully crewed with a
European Waterways. Captain, gourmet chef, hostess and a tour guide.
Owner of GoBarging, European Waterways is the The prize is a six-night cruise for two people aboard
largest luxury hotel barging company in Europe, offer- European Waterways’ eight-passenger hotel barge Art de
ing six-night/seven-day luxury cruises on its large fleet Vivre on the Nivernais Canal in Burgundy, France. The
of vessels in France, Scotland, England, Ireland, cruise includes en-suite accommodation in a twin/dou-
Holland, Belgium, Germany, Luxembourg and Italy. It ble cabin, all meals, wines, an open bar, chauffeured
has built a reputation for providing high quality barging excursions, local transfers to and from the barge, but
holidays on its “floating boutique hotels” to a discerning excludes travel and gratuities. The cruise will depart on
All photos: European Waterways
clientele in search of a truly unique experience. a Sunday and end on the following Saturday.

■ Wine service competition ■ hotel barge cruise
■ Excursions go to
picturesque towns
For a chance of winning this wonderful holiday, visit ■ Saloon

the European Waterways website www.gobarging.com
then find the answer to the question below.
Question: In which year did European Waterways first

start operating?
a) 1974
b) 1977
c) 1984
To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and ■ Fine dining

click on competitions & giveaways. Closing date is
April 30, 2010.
Terms & conditions 6) The prize is non transferable and non refundable, and has no cash alternative.
7) The prize cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.
8) These terms and conditions are correct at time of being printed but may be
1) The first entry drawn at random after the closing date will win. subject to change without notice.
2) The holiday must be booked by May 31, 2010. 9) Automated/bulk entries and entries from third parties will be disqualified.
3) The cruise must be taken between June 20, 2010, and May 28, 2011, and is 10) The Editor’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.
subject to availability. European Waterways’ standard booking terms and 11) Entry to the competition implies full and unconditional acceptance of
conditions apply. these rules.
4) Travel insurance and spending money are not provided and are the 12) By entering the competition you are agreeing to allow us to see and share
responsibility of the prize winner. this information with other companies including for sales, marketing and
5) No purchase necessary to enter.The prize draw is open to UK residents market research purposes and to send you information by mail about our
aged 21 years and over, except employees of European Waterways Ltd,TLM products/services.
Media Ltd or anyone professionally associated with the promotion. Only 13) Winners may also be asked to write or submit photos from prize trips for
one entry per household. inclusion on the TLM website.

The costs of producing this advert were kindly donated to MSF
Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) gives free professional medical care to the people who need
it most. In countries devastated by conflict, natural disaster or poverty, our staff battle
epidemics, run emergency clinics and provide basic health services.
Find out where we work, what we do and how you can help at www.msf.org.uk English Charity Reg No. 1026588
travel ■ update
Faraway favourites
ndian Ocean island nation the Maldives is displacing Egypt, as it returns to favour. Kuoni
I still the most popular long-haul holiday

destination, according to the latest travel
trends report by leading tour operator Kuoni.
says its outlook is very positive, with growth in
touring and tailor-made holidays as well as
“huge demand” for traditional beach holidays.
Its annual Long-haul Report shows the Meanwhile, China and Hong Kong have
island chain has maintained its position as moved into eighth place, with Kuoni saying
top-selling faraway destination for 2010 after that 2010 is seeing more creative itineraries
topping the 2009 table – with Thailand and and adventurous multi-centre, tailor-made
the US also staying in second and third holidays.
respectively. Destinations bubbling under Kuoni’s top 10
The Maldives even ranks second for fam- and tipped to watch out for are India, Oman,
ily holidays, and Kuoni says the destination Indonesia, Mauritius and Cuba.
has “so much to offer clients, from a roman- Top five wedding destinations for 2010 are
tic getaway, diving and spas to honeymoons Sri Lanka, the US, Mauritius, St Lucia and
Peter Ellegard
and renewal of vows, there is no surprise it Thailand, while the top five places to honey-
is so popular.” moon are the Maldives, Thailand, Sri Lanka,
Sri Lanka moves up from sixth to fourth, ■ Sri Lanka is enjoying a revival in fortunes the United Arab Emirates and the US.
Baby goes, too

ew mums can get away from it
N
break.
all with their babies, thanks to a
new five-night Italian villa
The Mum and Baby Experience,

claimed to be the first of its kind, offers
stays at a five-bedroom Tuscany villa on
selected dates in May, June and
September. Owner, and mum, Rita
Shearings
■ A new coach holiday website has launched Kobrak says: “New mums would love to
get away for a few days, but don’t want
Rita Kobrak
to leave their babies behind. We provide
Coach website the perfect environment for them to
■ Spend quality time with your baby
A new website – www.findacoachholiday.com – relax and recharge their batteries, with
promotes tours by coach.The most comprehensive their babies.”
guide to coach tours, it features more than 100 UK Activities include yoga, swimming, ■ Relax in a
coach tour operator members of the Coach Tourism baby Italian, baby Latino and baby mas- Tuscany villa
Council (CTC), which promotes travel and tourism sage. Massages and beauty treatments are
by coach. It is a simple, user-friendly guide to finding available and there is an Italian cookery
an excursion, short break or escorted coach holiday class. Babysitting is also offered, so
to anywhere in the UK, Europe or beyond. mums can take time out on their own.
The Mum and Baby Experience caters
for five mums plus babies and toddlers,
Take a hike and costs from £700 per mother and baby
A free Hiking Programme for guests staying in for a room, excluding flights. Toddlers up
Rita Kobrak
Austrian alpine town Innsbruck or its 25 holiday to three years old cost an extra £100.
villages includes guided hikes, a free hiking bus and Dads can even go, too, for an additional
even free boots and rucksack for those without their £300. Breakfast and dinner is included, as
own. Guests must have an Innsbruck Card, which also are Perugia airport transfers.
offers reduced or free admission to attractions and For information, email Rita Kobrak on: READER OFFER
costs from 25 euros for 24 hours. ritakobrak@mum-and-baby-experience.co.uk. TLM readers can get a 10% DISCOUNT
ww.innsbruck.info or call 077855 71292 or 020 7384 2431. off Mum and Baby Experience breaks.
www.mum-and-baby-experience.co.uk Just quote TLM Magazine when booking.

travel ■ update
Over the sea to Skye

ee some of Scotland’s best scenery from
S two former fishing vessels, now con-

verted into luxury mini-cruise ships.
The Majestic Line operates cruises aboard
two traditional craft, the Glen Massan and
Glen Tarsan, both of which accommodate a
The Majestic Line
The Majestic Line

maximum of 11 people.
The 2010 sailing season is being expanded
with the addition of two new six-night west
coast and Hebrides cruises, departing from
Oban in July and September. They will sail
through the Sound of Mull, pass the islands of ■ The Glen Massan ■ Cosy dining room
Rum, Eigg and Muck and sail around the Isle cruises for the 2011 season. The Skye and the Inner Hebrides cruises
of Skye, taking in sights such as Eilean Donan Meals are all freshly-prepared using locally- depart Oban on July 10 and September 4 and
Castle. sourced ingredients, and the ships have a salon cost £1,565 per person, fully inclusive except
Strong demand for the cruises means the area at the rear so guests can relax on deck. for spirits.
award-winning Scottish company will also add Wildlife that can be seen from the deck and Go to www.themajesticline.co.uk or call
at least two more Skye and Inner Hebrides trips ashore includes eagles, otters and seals. 0131 623 5012.
their GP six to eight weeks ■ Bordeaux

Wine School
before going abroad to ensure
Kevin Kolczynski, Universal Orlando Resort
lesson
they have the correct protection.
With malaria hotspots changing
frequently, it is important to
Ecole du Vin de Bordeaux

keep up to date.Visit
www.malariahotspots.co.uk
to check your intended
destination on a new-look
interactive map.
■ Hogwarts Express
Steamed up Pacific trio Get schooled in wine

A full-size, steam-billowing Luxury tour operator Tailor s your wine expertise lacking? 17 and October 17-18; 335 euros)
Hogwarts Express engine will
greet guests at Universal Orlando
Resort’s new theme park,The
Made Travel
features
three
I Now you can combine a holi-
day in Bordeaux with learning
what makes the French region’s
helps students improve their
wine-tasting ability and learn the
principles of successful food and
Tailor Made Travel
Wizarding World of Harry Potter, Pacific wines so special. wine matching.

when it opens this spring.The hotels Three different courses are on The Grand Crus level course
Florida park will feature multiple opening offer at the city’s Ecole du Vin de (May 18-20; 600 euros), for stu-
themed attractions, shops and a this Bordeaux (Bordeaux Wine dents who have completed either
restaurant.The Hogwarts Express spring. School), with classes held in of the other courses, is a three-day
train transports students to a The Quay ■ Easter Island English by local wine experts. discovery of the Bordeaux vine-
world of magic and wonder in West Open to everyone, they comprise yards and their wines, visiting
the Harry Potter books and films. Resort & Spa Noosa, on in-depth tastings, practical exer- four areas – the Medoc,
www.universalorlando.com Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, cises and visits to nearby Sauternes, Graves and Saint-
opens in March. April sees chateaux. Emilion.
Samoa’s totally-rebuilt Sinalei A two-day beginners’ technical A two-hour introduction
Reef Resort & Spa reopen after course (May 14-15 and October course, again in English, is held
Malaria aware the devastating September 15-16; 350 euros) involves tasting daily except Thursdays and
The Malaria Awareness Week, tsunami and the opening of eco- over 30 wines and learning about Sundays in July and August.
from May 10-16, will highlight friendly Hangaroa Eco Village & soil types, grape varieties, classifi- Prices do not include flights or
malaria risks when travelling and Spa on Easter Island. cations and different appellations. accommodation. For details, visit
will urge UK travellers to visit www.tailor-made.co.uk After completing that level, a www.bordeaux.com and click
two-day practical course (May 16- on Wine School.

all aboard ■ family-friendly cruises
Carnival Cruises
Princess Cruises
■ Water fun on MSC’s Fantasia MSC Cruises ■ Carnival’s Water Works ■ Movies under the stars with Princess Cruises
Happy families
With new cruise ships boasting everything from nurseries
T
aking a cruise these days is simply child’s
play. Never before has there been such a
and kids clubs to surf simulators and circus workshops, choice of family-friendly ships bursting at the
cruising really is a family affair now. Sara Macefield seams with exciting activities and facilities
for younger cruisers. Whether it is scaling a
looks at who offers what to keep youngsters of all ages climbing wall up the side of the ship’s funnel;
happy afloat gliding across an ice-skating rink; flying through the air
on a trapeze; or partying with Mickey Mouse; there is
something to appeal to all ages.
Youngsters are no longer confined to fun and games
in the kids clubs – good though they are. Some ships
have dedicated deck areas for younger passengers, while
others offer supervised excursions for older children
who want to shake off mum and dad for a few hours.
There are sports courts where youngsters can let off
steam, mini-golf courses for a quick nine holes, table
tennis and even giant movie screens where they can
catch a film while playing in the pool. Some larger ships
also have water parks complete with water slides.
Then there are themed parties, talent shows and trib-
ute bands, plus family-friendly restaurants and specially-
designed cabins designed to accommodate parents and
up to three children.
Cruising, it seems, has finally thrown off its reputa-
“Some ships tion for appealing mainly to the retired set – and where
families are concerned, it is growing up fast.
have But the key to happy holidays afloat rests on choos-
ing the right ship as facilities can vary and some vessels
dedicated are better for certain age groups.
deck areas Babies and toddlers
for younger Tiny tots are welcome on cruise ships, but most companies
do not accept children under six months, while the mini-
passengers” mum age for kids’ clubs tends to be two or three years.
Disney Cruises
Only a few lines have nurseries on their ships and one

■ Mickey Mouse helps young cruisers of these is Cunard, where nannies take care of children
keep fit on Disney Magic on its two ships, Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria.

Royal Caribbean International
Disney Cruise Line is another that takes little ones, ■ Above: CocoCay water activities
and probably has the lowest age limit – just 12 weeks in
its onboard nurseries – while P&O Cruises’ family ships
also have onboard nurseries. ■ Left: happy campers at Camp
Carnival
On Royal Caribbean International ships, special par-
ent-child playgroups are held for little ones, while the
company’s largest ship, Oasis of the Seas, has its own
Carnival Cruises
“babies and tots” nursery.

Norwegian Cruise Line is another good choice for
toddlers as some of its ships have water-themed play
areas or dedicated baby pools. Evening group baby-sit-
ting is also offered.
Under 12s
Family-friendly ships have kids clubs, split into differ-
family cruising tips
ent age groups, that offer an action-packed programme ● Each ship is different – so check the facilities carefully and assess which one will
of activities such as pizza-making classes, ice-cream suit your children best.
parties, teddy-bear picnics, pirate parties and discos. ● Check the sleeping arrangements – some ships have inter-connecting cabins,
The range of onboard activities has grown too. Some others have special family cabins with sofa-beds or bunks that come down from
Royal Caribbean International ships have climbing walls, surf the ceiling.
simulators and ice-skating rinks, while Norwegian Cruise ● What are the dining arrangements? Ensure there are enough flexible options –
Line has bowling alleys and water slides on some ships. buffet restaurants are normally the best bet.
P&O Cruises’ newest family-friendly ship, Ventura, ● If your children aren’t confident swimmers, look for ships with dedicated kids’
boasts circus workshops, Scalextric Grand Prix-style pools.
races and a Rock School for kids who want to emulate ● Check the opening times of the kids clubs, any extra charges and whether you
their favourite pop stars. can leave your children on-board if you want to go ashore.
Disney Cruises has a head-start when it comes to ● For older kids, buy a soda package, which gives them a set amount of drinks
family cruises. In addition to the kids clubs, there is much cheaper than if bought separately
plenty of Disney-inspired entertainment. Its Studio Sea

all aboard ■ family-friendly cruises
family cruise facts

Sample cruises
Norwegian Cruise Line (0845 201 8912;
www.ncl.co.uk) has one-week round-trip
sailings from Venice to the Greek islands this
summer. Prices are from £3,156 for a family of
NCL
four for a May 22 departure, including flights.
P&O Cruises (0845 678 0014;

www.pocruises.com) is
offering a 14-night Western
Mediterranean sailing on Ventura from £6,370
for a family of four which includes a £50
P&O Cruises
onboard credit per adult. It departs
Southampton on August 14 and ports of call
include Cannes, Palma, Livorno and Gibraltar.
Royal Caribbean International (0844 493 4005;

www.royalcaribbean.co.uk) has a nine-night Western Caribbean fly-
cruise, departing on July 10, on the world’s largest cruise ship, Oasis of
the Seas, from £6,316 for two adults and two children.The price
includes return flights to Florida, a one-night hotel stay pre-cruise and
Royal Caribbean International
the seven-night sailing.
More information
● The Passenger Shipping Association represents the main cruise
lines and its website www.discovercruises.co.uk gives details of these
and contains a section on family cruises.
■ Royal Caribbean’s Flowrider family club looks like a film set and hosts various shows On Holland America Line ships, youngsters up to 17
such as cabaret and talent contests for the whole family. can enjoy the funky Loft area, resembling a New York
On Princess Cruises and Costa Cruises ships, children style artist’s studio and the fabulous Oasis adult-free
can catch their favourite film on giant poolside movie deck zone with hammocks and a waterfall.
screens, while Royal Caribbean International’s newest
ship, Oasis of the Seas, even has a dedicated children’s Where to go
theatre where youngsters can put on their own shows. Once you’ve chosen the ship, it’s a question of deciding
Lines such as Ocean Village, Carnival Cruise Lines, where you want to sail to. One of the easiest ways of
Island Cruises, Thomson Cruises and MSC Cruises also travelling with young children is to jump on the growing
offer a good range of activities for children. number of ships now sailing from the UK, which cuts out
the hassle of taking flights.
Teens The obvious place to go is the Mediterranean, which
Probably the hardest age group to please, yet energetic scores highly with children of all ages as there are so
teens can opt for the plethora of activities on Royal many different ports.
■ Below: On high at sea
Caribbean International, while those wanting to do Even if you decide to join one of the many cruises
their own thing can try Ocean Village’s teen-friendly departing from European cities such as Barcelona,
excursions to hike up Mount Vesuvius or tour Palma or Venice, flight times are still short.
Barcelona’s famous Nou Camp football stadium with- Farther afield, the Caribbean is a popular cruising
out their parents. spot and tends to be a sun, sea and sand option with a
The line also has special teen TV presenter work- more relaxed pace. However, the major downside is the
shops and Girls Night In pampering packages. flight, which is around nine hours.
Several ships are armed with the latest techno The Far East offers a tempting combination of cul-
temptations to keep young cruisers happy with X-Box ture, experiences and beautiful beaches, but with a 13-
and PlayStation games plus video arcades and teen- hour flight this again is one for older children who can
only nightclubs. make the most of the shore activities.
Music fans can even cut their own CD in a fully- Less-obvious destinations for older children include
equipped recording studio aboard Costa Cruises’ ship, Alaska, which offers adventurous excursions such as
Costa Pacifica, or take the plunge with a private bear spotting, climbing glaciers or snowmobiling, and
NCL
music lesson. the Baltic, rich in history and culture.

all aboard ■ cruise news
CRUISE CLIPS
Hurtigruten, which offers
cruises to the Norwegian
fjords and Arctic Circle is
offering 20% savings on
popular sailings on selected
dates between May and
September. Prices now start
at £655 per person for a six-
day Voyage South sailing,
Fred Olsen Cruise Lines

cruise-only.
P&O Cruises
■ UK cruisers generally tip less ■ Drinks are cheapest on P&O and Fred Olsen
Tipping point for cruisers

ipping has long been a confusing issue UK cruise companies either include tips in the
T among cruise-goers and in recent years it has

become controversial.
With the arrival of American ships in the UK and
overall price or suggest amounts that should be given
to staff at the end of the holiday, which are lower
than those paid on their US counterparts.
Europe, British customers have had to get used to Another thorny issue has been the high price of
tipping rates as high as 18% – something that hasn’t drinks on ships. A recent survey showed that Royal
always gone down well. Caribbean International and Norwegian Cruise Line
Royal Caribbean International, which bases its charged the highest prices for a beer.
■ Virgin offers free luggage delivery for ship Independence of the Seas at Southampton, is Online travel agency Cruises.co.uk, which con-
cruise passengers
reviewing its tipping policy because up to a third of ducted a study of 10 cruise lines, claimed passengers
Virgin Holidays Cruises its UK customers were not paying gratuities. would pay as much as £3.95 on Royal Caribbean and
claims to be the first cruise US lines generally charge a daily rate of around £3.61 on NCL for a bottle of Becks.
agency to offer a free door to $10 per person which can be automatically debited Yet on Fred Olsen Cruise Lines and P&O Cruises
door “Luggage Chauffeur” from each passenger’s on-board account, though pas- – which were the cheapest - they would pay only
service for customers sailing sengers can ask to have this removed. £2.20 and £2.35 respectively.
Epic time with Dora and Bob

with P&O, Princess or ans of Dora the Explorer
Cunard from Southampton.
Passengers can send one bag
of up to 30kg free of charge,
F and Sponge Bob Square
Pants will be able to set sail
with these and other
and extra bags cost up to £35 Nickelodeon characters on
each way. Norwegian Cruise Line’s newest
ship, Norwegian Epic, which
Hearty English fare such launches this summer.
as mushy peas, steak and They’ll be able to get together
kidney pies,Yorkshire with them at character breakfasts,
puddings and sausage rolls is meet and greets, interactive shows
to be served up on Celebrity – or even have their favourite
Cruises’ newest ship character tuck them in at night.
Celebrity Eclipse, which will And this isn’t just confined to
be based at Southampton this Norwegian Epic as Nickelodeon
NCL
summer, to appeal to British characters will also be based on ■ Ahoy there, it’s Sponge Bob Square Pants
palates. one of NCL’s other ships,
Norwegian Jewel. off in style aboard Norwegian new studio cabins at solo cruise
Single travellers can also sail Epic as it is targeting innovative passengers, with prices to match.

off the beaten track ■ the azores
Best-selling author Joanne Harris swapped the French village setting of her Chocolat novel
for a visit to the tiny Azores archipelago with her daughter – and found a timeless natural
wonderland still untouched by tourism
I
slands have always appealed to me. The smaller Arrival at the airport finds it reassuringly quiet. For
and more remote the better. My favourite books although a description of the Azores reads like
were full of them – from Robinson Crusoe to The Anouchka’s list of the 10 Coolest Things to Find In One
Search for Atlantis – and so it is with a strange Place (brilliant sunshine, active volcanoes, killer whales,
sense of deja vu that I now land with my daughter bubbling mud lakes, swimming with dolphins, pineap-
Anouchka in Sao Miguel, the largest island of the ple plantations, a sea bluer than the movies and the
Azores, a group of nine volcanic islands strung out thrilling possibility of seeing a Portuguese man-o’-war,
across six hundred kilometres like some fabulous the biggest, deadliest jellyfish in the ocean), tourism
necklace, half the Atlantic Ocean away. seems as yet to have made little impact on the islands.
The islands are clustered into three groups; the Life here exists at a slower pace; strangers are wel-
Eastern group of Sao Miguel and Santa Maria; the comed with genuine delight; there is little nightlife and
Central group of Terceira, Graciosa, Sao Jorge, Pico and hardly any crime; and the small scale and informal
Faial; the Western group of Flores and Corvo. From the nature of island trips comes as a glorious change from
air, they look exactly as I imagined them; skirted with the cattle-truck tours of the concrete Costas.
sea-foam at the edges, excitingly pockmarked with vol- Our stay is due to last a week, and to take in three of
canoes of all sizes (some still smoking), and showing the islands; Sao Miguel, Faial and Pico. Sao Miguel is
vast expanses of brilliant green. the largest island, and its capital, Ponta Delgada,

■ Joanne ■ The Faial caldera

Harrris and
her daugher
in the Azores
Sunvil
receives most of the visitors. It is a charming place, ■ Main picture, Azores
whale-watching
looking as Madeira did 50 years ago, with its marina, its
Sunvil
castle, its cobbled, palm-lined streets, its market and
shops and friendly little cafés.
Festivals
The Azores are part of Portugal, and there is a strong
Catholic identity to the place, with incense and icons of
the saints on sale in every little corner shop. But
Azorean saints are a cheery lot; there are festivals
almost every day, and on our first night in Ponta
Delgada, Anouchka and I are gaily dragged by locals
into one of their many street galas, with dancers, musi-
cians and acrobats.
Any excuse for a party, they say, when I ask them whose
festival this is. Here, you know, there’s so little to do…
The next day, we set off to find out how little there
really is. Our friends of last night were being modest;
the island is glorious in every way. Incredibly green, it
is a paradise for gardeners; agapanthus, ginger lily,
thyme and hydrangeas grow wild, and any abandoned
building or fallen tree is quickly devoured by the purple

Azores tips ■ Hot springs at

Furnas, Sao Miguel
● Don’t forget: sunscreen; sunhat; camera film or spare memory cards and batteries
(not always readily available locally); waterproof clothing; comfortable shoes;
binoculars; sandals; swimming costume, towel or wrap.
● Drink plenty of water – the wind and sun means that it’s easy to get dehydrated,
especially on boat trips.
● Tipping isn’t essential, but it’s always appreciated – 10 euros per person to small-
tour guides (swimming with dolphins, etc) will ensure maximum goodwill and
time flexibility.
● Eat outside your hotel as often as you can. Grilled fish is good here (wreckfish,
sea bass, mackerel). Also try: locally-produced cheeses; blood-sausage baked with
Azores Tourism Association

yam or pineapple; fried squid; local beef.
● There isn’t a lot for tourists to buy, but you can take home pineapples (declare on
arrival in the UK) or pineapple liqueur from local plantations; handicrafts (enamel
jewellery, hand-painted scarves, corn dollies) or leather goods.
● Health and safety is still in its infancy here – so keep an eye on children, especially
near the hot springs!
morning glories that swarm over everything with near- spectacular range of scenery over a very small area, with
“Tourism tropical speed. green valleys on one side, and the apocalyptic results of
seems as yet Over the next few days, we visit pineapple and tea
plantations; we sip strawberry juice by a volcano crater;
recent volcanic activity on the other. There is a light-
house half-buried in volcanic ash; a stretch of desert like
to have made we see the famous twin lakes – one green, one blue – at
Sete Cicades and hear the sad, romantic tale of how they
a Martian moon; and all around the island there are fabu-
lous places to swim; for although there are few beaches
little impact were formed (the Azoreans are great tellers of tales, the here, the tumbling lava has formed wonderful natural
sadder and the more romantic the better). swimming places, sheltered from the open sea, where
on the We visit the sulphurous Furnas, with its boiling pools of Anouchka can spend hours diving, climbing on rocks
islands” mud and water, reminding us that although the volcanoes
of the Azores may be dormant, they are far from extinct.
and inspecting the sea life trapped in the many pools.
In the evening, the famous marina is the place to be.
At Tony’s restaurant in Furnas, we eat locally-grown Nightlife is sociable rather than sophisticated, and there
pineapple, and blood-sausage baked with yam under the is a variety of restaurants and bars. Food in the Azores is
hot earth in the traditional way; and we bathe in the best when it is simple. Hotel and restaurant food here
thermal pool of the old and genteel Terra Nostra Hotel, can often have a kind of school-dinnerish quality, but
where the spring water is so charged with minerals that cafes and bars often serve excellent inexpensive food,
my swimsuit actually goes rusty. and the Cafe Sport bar in Horta, on the seafront, is the
locals’ favourite, serving seafood kebabs, excellent
Blue Island steaks, grilled wreckfish and salads, with good bread,
On the third day we fly to Horta on Faial, in the Central local cheeses and Portuguese wines.
group of the Azores. It takes about an hour to fly from
Sao Miguel, and if anything, this smaller island seems Whale-watching
even closer to perfection. Pico is only a heartbeat away, and Horta’s skyline is
Living here is like being in love, says our guide; and I dominated by its perfect cone. You can walk to the
can definitely see what he means. Known as the Blue summit of the volcano, although it takes time (two to
Island for its hedgerows of hydrangeas, Faial offers a five hours for the ascent, depending on the weather,
and half as much again for the descent), and requires a
■ Horta harbour, Faial registered guide.
An island tour by taxi gives a short, but tantalising
taste of the island, including extraordinary views from
the peak itself, lakes, smaller caldera and the famous
whaling museum – though Anouchka and I both agree
that there are much more enjoyable ways to see whales
on Pico.
Whale-watching is a unique experience, and we are
told that Faial is the best place to try it. Our motorised
boat seats only eight people, and the organisers are very
careful to ensure that the whales are not stressed by the
presence of observers. More than one boat is not
Sunvil
allowed; we keep a respectful distance at all times. I’m

■ Azores dolphin-watching
azores facts
When to go ■ Sao Miguel
The Azores islands lie almost 1,000 miles west
of Lisbon in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean
and enjoy a temperate climate thanks to the
Sunvil
warming influence of the Gulf Stream. Average
temperatures range from highs of 17ºC in
Sunvil
January to about 25ºC in August. Showers are
more frequent between October and April.
impressed at the care and sensitivity shown here by our
guides, and I am very conscious of what a rare privilege Getting there
it is to see these giant mammals in their natural habitat. Azores airline SATA (www.sata.pt) flies direct from London Gatwick
The marine life of the Azores is spectacularly varied; to Ponta Delgada on the island of Sao Miguel.
some 25 different species of whale visit the islands, and
on our first trip we see sperm whales, beaked whales, Getting around
pilot whales and dolphins. SATA operates regular flights between the islands of Faial, Pico, Santa
Maria, Sao Miguel and Terceira.You can rent cars, bikes and mopeds on
Swimming with dolphins all the main islands, and there are also taxis.
Our next trip is, if anything, more exciting – for return-
ing to Sao Miguel, we are booked to actually swim with Accommodation
these creatures. The boat takes up to six people; and The islands have a range of accommodation, including hotels,
although no more than two swimmers are allowed in the guesthouses and farmhouses.
water at once, we all have several chances to swim. But
first we have to find the dolphins, and we pray that they Tour operators
will be in playful mood. Any sign of anxiety, and we Operators include Sunvil Discovery (020 8758 4722; www.sunvil.co.uk). It
must leave them alone – our guides make it clear that it offers a seven-night Three Island Tour to Sao Miguel, Faial and Pico from
is they, and not we, who are in charge. £1,187 per person, including direct flights from Gatwick, seven nights’ b&b
It takes us an hour to find our first school. Anouchka accommodation, internal flights and transfers, entrance tickets to botanical
and I take the first swim, lowering ourselves carefully gardens and museums, and guided excursions. Archipelago Azores (017687
into water that is a luminous blue and almost tropically 75672; www.azoreschoice.com) offer tailor-made holidays to the Azores.
warm. The depth here is between 1,000 and 2,000
metres, and clear right down to the bottom. I can see the Tourist information
dolphins some distance below. And they are singing – a Visit the Azores Tourism Association’s website on
long, resonant note that cuts through the water. www.azorestourism.com or the Portuguese National Tourist Office
Anouchka gives me a big thumbs-up; she can hear them website: www.visitportugal.com.
too, and we follow them for five or more minutes until
the school moves on and we return to the boat.
We repeat the experience six times that day, and You see, it’s the scale of things here that makes the
another five the next. We encounter bottlenose dolphins
“Strangers Azores so different and special. With only a few dozen
and spotted dolphins, and swim with both. Some of
them come very close to us. But nothing beats that first
are tourists at a time, it’s perfectly acceptable for a restaurant
to serve food cooked in an underground pot halfway up
contact with another species in its own element. It’s an welcomed a mountain; or for a sightseeing company to expend six
eerie, intimate, almost religious feeling, which I know hours, a boat and two members of staff so that four or
will stay with me for a very long time. with genuine five people can swim with dolphins. But try any of this
on a larger scale, and soon it will no longer be possible.
Charm delight” So I can’t help feeling that in some way I’ve wit-
But how long can this idyll last? I find that on leav- nessed the last days of Atlantis – blissfully free (but how
ing this magical place I’m almost reluctant to write long for?) from the excesses of the 21st century. And it
about it, as if by keeping them secret I could help is with a heartfelt prayer to the god of small things that
these islands preserve the Brigadoon-like quality Anouchka and I board the plane home – to please keep
that gives them their charm. these islands just as they are. Perfect. Forever.
Reader offer Best known for her romantic novel, Chocolat, which
was turned into a hit film starring Juliette Binoche and
WIN one of five copies of the latest novel by Johnny Depp, Joanne Harris has written more than a
Joanne Harris – psychological thriller blueeyed boy dozen other books.This article was originally
– which is published on April 1. See page 56. published in the Telegraph.

pack your clubs ■ tenerife, canary islands
Golf on the Island of
Eternal
Spring
Great courses, a superb climate, top-
notch hotels and plenty of off-course
attractions makeTenerife heavenly
for golf…if you can avoid the shanks.
Peter Ellegard tees it up
I
t was one of those moments you dread. Only a
short par 3, but uphill and over a cactus-stud-
ded valley from a tee perched high above the
Atlantic swells. I didn’t feel comfortable as I
teed up, especially with the Ladies European
Tour pro I was playing alongside in the
Tenerife Ladies Open Pro-Am patiently waiting
with her caddy after effortlessly sending her shot
close to the pin.
Nerves jangling, I swung. Hard. And the
inevitable happened – I shanked the ball, sending it
sideways and almost taking out Australia’s former top
lady amateur, Frances Bondad.
Thankfully, my indiscretion was forgiven with a
gracious smile. After blanking that hole, the rest of
my round was a marginal improvement, allowing me
to relax and enjoy the beautiful Costa Adeje course.
It is one of eight golf courses on Tenerife, the
largest of the Canary Islands. A natural paradise of
mountains, lush vegetation, towering cliffs, verdant
Peter Ellegard
valleys and black and gold sand beaches 300km off

the African coast, Tenerife is popular as a sunshine
■ Buenavista Golf course holiday destination thanks to its year-round temperate

climate. Not for nothing is it known as the Island of

Eternal Spring.
As a result, Tenerife is heaven for golfers. And it is
great for non-golfing partners, too, with high-quality
hotels, many having extensive health and spa facilities,
lively nightlife and extensive sightseeing, shopping and
activity options besides the beaches.
Spain’s highest mountain – the coni-
cal-peaked Mount Teide, standing
over over 12,000ft (3,718m)
and snow-capped in winter –
dominates Tenerife and “Tenerife is
divides the island’s verdant
heaven for
Peter Ellegard
north from the more arid
south. But nowhere is more
■ Beach at Playa de Las Americas
than about an hour away
golfers”
from anywhere else.
Off-course attractions Towering cliffs

The north has two courses. Real Club de Golf de
Tenerife has a wealth of options away The Loro Parque wildlife park in Tenerife, not far from Canaries capital Santa Cruz de
from its courses. One of the most Puerto de la Cruz in northern Tenerife Tenerife, is Spain’s second-oldest golf club and was
popular tours is to the volcanic and the Parque Las Aguilas – Jungle founded 75 years ago. It can be played on weekday
landscape of Teide National Park, the Park in the south, are both popular mornings.
most visited national park in Spain. attractions.Wine lovers will enjoy Also in the north, Seve Ballesteros sculpted the stun-
Tours from the north go up through Frontos Theme Park in Granadilla de ning Buenavista course from a wild and beautiful sec-
the Oratava Valley, and those from the Abona, a rural attraction which tion of rocky coast in the heart of Teno Rural Park,
south often include the picturesque highlights Tenerife’s wine culture and flanked by the towering cliffs of the Teno Massif.
town of Puerto de la Cruz. shows both traditional and modern Several holes on the back nine are set right on the shore-
There’s shopping and city tours in wine-producing methods. Europe’s line, giving the impression you are playing shots into the
capital Santa Cruz de Tenerife, whose biggest water park, Siam Park, opened sea itself, with spray from waves crashing into adjacent
history dates back to 1492. A day trip in the south in 2008 with 25 Thai- rocks as golfers putt on some greens. A large lake and
can be combined with nearby Anaga themed buildings, thrill rides including a tumbling waterfalls in front of the clubhouse feature on
Rural Park and Teresitas beach, one of flume tube through an alligator pool the 9th and 18th holes. Stands of graceful palm trees
the most beautiful in Tenerife. Sun and a Wave Palace with a three-metre- and sharp-spiked cacti edge
worshippers have numerous beaches high artificial surfing wave. most fairways.
around the island. Another popular The adventurous can ride camels, go Afterwards, you can
outing is to Teno Rural Park.Tours hiking, mountain biking, caving and reflect on your glory
generally take in the historic costal climbing amid Tenerife’s natural scenery moments and near misses
town of Garachico and the inland or try water sports including kite- from the upstairs restau-
village of Masca. Other sightseeing surfing, sailing, sea canoeing and diving rant and terrace bar in
favourites include the town of Icod de in the warm, clear Atlantic. the clubhouse while tak-
los Vinos with its thousand-year-old And resorts such as Playa de Las ing in the magnificent
Dragon Tree and the spectacular Americas and Playa de Los Cristianos vista of this Seve master-
roadside viewpoints in the Isla Baja area offer great beaches, excellent shopping piece, the rocky coastline
in the north, and the Los Gigantos Cliffs and eating out as well as pulsating and the brooding Atlantic
on the west coast. nightlife. beyond.
Buenavista hosts the
Tenerife Ladies Open this
year and now boasts a new
luxury hotel alongside.
Golfers have more choice in
the south, including Golf del Sur.
Tenerife Tourism Corporation
It staged the island’s first profes-

sional golf tournament, the Tenerife
Open, in 1989, two years after the
course opened, the winner being Jose
Maria Olazabal.
Originally designed by Pepe Gancedo in
1987, Golf del Sur’s 27 holes were remod-
■ Historic Garachico ■ Playa de Las Teresitas
elled in 2005 and 2006 by fellow Spaniard
Peter Ellegard

■ Costa Adeje
Manuel Pinero, who brought out the ravine-edged

■ Flowers and water at Amarilla ■ The Abama course and hotel
course’s natural element more; its wealth of flowers,
cacti and palm trees are in stark contrast to its black
sand bunkers and the ravines.
Longest drive
The course has a notable claim to fame; it was where

British golfer Karl Woodward set two world records for

the longest drive in 1995 – his second sur-
passing 408 yards, all carry! Nearby
hotels include the San Blas and Hotel
Vincci Tenerife Golf.
Amarilla Golf is another course
right on the ocean. Designer Donald
Steel teases players with the approach
shot to the green of the par-4 4th,
with the sea immediately behind. Then
he taunts golfers with a tee shot right
over the waves on the short but spectacu-
lar, par-3 5th. A marina forms the backdrop
to several holes and there is also a horse rid-
ing club at Amarilla.
Tenerife’s biggest resort, Playa de Las Americas,
has a great golf course on its doorstep. Golf Las
Americas is a green oasis nestling in a natural
amphitheatre. The course encircles the large clubhouse
and is interlaced with lakes and water channels, making
for some testing challenges right from the first hole. The
Peter Ellegard
Hotel Las Madrigueras is among hotels situated right by

Golf Las Americas, while the recently-renovated, luxury ■ Mountain backdrop at Golf del Sur
Hotel Sir Anthony and adjacent Hotel Cleopatra Palace

■ Golf Las Americas

tenerife golf facts
Tourist information
Visit the Tenerife Tourism Corporation website at
www.webtenerifeuk.co.uk or call freephone: 00 800 100 101 00.
Weather
North-east trade winds and warm Atlantic waters keep Tenerife
temperate year-round, with temperatures averaging 23ºC.

Getting there
■ Mount Teide
Tenerife is served by direct flights from

several UK airports. Among airlines,
Monarch (www.monarch.co.uk)
operates from airports including
Gatwick and Luton with fares,
are part of the Mare Nostrum Resort just a few minutes including taxes, starting from £77.50
away. The Hotel Europe Villa Cortes, another golfer- one way (£138.99 return). Seats can be
friendly property, is also close by. pre-booked at £8.50 per one-way and
Water is also a strong theme at Tenerife’s newest extra-legroom seats are available for £25.
addition, Abama, which opened in 2005 in Guia de
Isora, on Tenerife’s west coast. There are 22 lakes to Golf packages
negotiate, complete with cascading waterfalls, on this Tour operators offering Tenerife golf packages include Premier Iberian
Dave Thomas design which overlooks the sea and has (0845 600 3391, www.premieriberian.com),Your Golf Travel (0800
views to La Gomera. The course, Tenerife’s longest, is 043 6644, www.yourgolftravel.com), Golf Breaks
laid out amid luxuriant flora and including many 90,000 (0800 279 7988, www.golfbreaks.com),
palm trees. But its most striking feature is the luxury Supertravel (020 7459 2984,
Abama hotel and villas, a pinkish-brown architectural www.supertravel.co.uk) and Golf
marvel which resembles a Moorish citadel. It looms Amigos (0845 230 3100,
into view with the Atlantic behind on the downhill, par- www.golfamigos.co.uk).You can also
5 10th and sits alongside the next two holes. The hotel cruise and play golf in Tenerife and
features eight swimming pools, a spa and its own pri- other islands in the Canaries with the
vate beach. Flagship Golf programme of Fred Olsen
Cruise Lines (01473 746175,
■ Tecina
Terraces Golf Course www.fredolsencruises.com).
Just down the coast is 27-hole Golf Costa Adeje, the
scene of my Ladies European Open horror shot.
Another Pepe Gancedo layout on the site of a former Courses
banana plantation, the original 18-hole Old Course, Golf Costa Adeje Abama Golf
which opened in 1998, uses the natural contours of the www.golfcostaadeje.com www.abamahotelresort.com
land to good effect, including on its wide greens. It
incorporates old stone farm terraces on fairways which Amarilla Golf Buenavista Golf
slope down to the sea and offer superb views of La www.amarillagolf.es www.buenavistagolf.es
Gomera. Looking seaward, they are all but invisible,
yet look back and you can see the original dry stone Golf del Sur Real Club de Golf de Tenerife
terrace walls puncturing the fairways. www.aymerichgolf.com www.realclubgolftenerife.com
The 9-hole Los Lagos Course is shorter but serves
up more of a technical challenge, with six lakes for Golf Las Americas Tecina Golf
golfers to negotiate. Hotels near here include the turret- www.golf-tenerife.com www.tecinagolf.com
ed, five-star Gran Hotel Bahia del Duque Resort, Hotel
Jardin Tropical, Iberostar’s Grand Hotel El Mirador and
Grand Hotel Anthelia, and the Sheraton La Caleta The neighbouring island of La Gomera also has an
Resort & Spa. 18-hole course. The Donald Steel-designed Tecina Golf
As well as Tenerife’s 18-hole courses, there is also course is set on a clifftop on the island’s southernmost
the 9-hole Centro de Golf los Palos facility. Designed tip, and is reached by a 40-minute fast ferry trip from
by Jose Maria Olazabal’s company, Integral Golf Los Cristianos.
Design, it is a par-27 layout with lakes and streams Tenerife is one of my favourite golf destinations, and
which is ideal for beginners or those wanting to work I am sure it won’t be long before I am back yet again. I
on their short game. It includes a clubhouse, restaurant just hope it won’t be a case of shanks for the memory
and children’s playground. next time…

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Combine a cruise to the

with some world class go
Many golfers might consider a cruise those taking part in the programme. You Casablanca – Mohammedia
holiday the last thing they would want can also use the onboard nets for practice, Royal Golf Club
to do – being at sea instead of on the green in between going ashore to play. In each This has a fairway between pines and
just doesn’t appeal. However, Fred. Olsen port with a Flagship Golf session planned, eucalyptus trees surrounded by a restless
Cruise Lines has put together the perfect you and your fellow players will be sea and white dunes. It is a windswept
package to enable golfers to enjoy every transferred to the course to enjoy a round and challenging course.
aspect of the game, including some top- at one of the superb courses featured in the
La Gomera – Tecina Golf
class tuition from a PGA professional, and programme, before re-joining the ship. In
This course is on the south side of the
D FKDQFH WR SOD\ VRPH RI WKH ZRUOG¶V ¿QHVW addition, there will be fun competitions, a
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courses, while at the same time sampling cocktail party and a get-together for prize- Santiago. It boasts balmy temperatures,
all the other delights of life at sea. It is giving at the end of the cruise. Partners are soft winds and wonderful views of
also the ideal holiday for golfers with welcome at all these social events. nearby Tenerife.
non-playing partners, who can revel in the
cruise experience, whilst the golfers get Lanzarote – Golf Costa Teguise
down to some serious play. They then get A lush green course, like an oasis on this
island of volcanic rock, the green fairways
together after to enjoy the social activities
are fringed by swaying palms. It is an
on board.
18-hole, 72-par course with level terrain
One of the best parts of the world
for easy walking.
IRU D JRO¿QJ KROLGD\ PXVW EH WKH &DQDU\
Islands. The islands boast so many superb Las Palmas – Campo de
courses – well-designed, challenging yet Golf de Maspalomas
enjoyable, and taking in some stunning A course bordered by dunes with light
scenery – along with a balmy and mild Tenerife breezes, this course boats an innovative
climate year-round. Fred. Olsen’s Flagship two-storey driving range with a reach
Golf package features on many Canaries beyond 300 metres.
cruises and some of these also take in Madeira – Palheiro Golf
North African ports like Agadir and Here are just a few of the superb courses 10km east of Funchal, with great views
Morocco. included in the Canary Islands Flagship of the town and bay, this 18-hole 72-par
The Flagship Golf package is made Golf programme:- course is set in the estate and parkland of
up of no fewer than four rounds of golf Quinta do Palheiro and offers a worthy
Agadir – Golf Club Med Les Dunes
ashore, plus onboard tuition and practice challenge for all handicaps.
A well-landscaped course of international
sessions, with social activity for golfers Full details of all the courses and the
standard with three loops of nine holes,
and their non-playing partners. Green fees cruises offering Flagship Golf can be
this course is a fair test of any golfer and
and transfers between ship and course are found on the website at
very enjoyable to play.
also included. There is a PGA professional www.fredolsencruises.co.uk The full
in residence on each of the Fred. Olsen Casablanca – El Jadida Royal Golf Flagship Golf package is charged at just
cruise ships, who will host the programme. Set in a 300-acre site on the Atlantic coast, £375 per player on Canaries cruises.
He or she offers one-to-one tuition for this is an exceptional course with superb views. It must be pre-booked and golfers are

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Gran Canaria
glorious Canary Islands

olf
welcome to bring their own clubs, or
they can hire them at the various golf
clubs if they prefer (but they MUST
have their own golf shoes).
On those rare occasions when you
are not playing golf or practicing on
board, the small but elegant Fred. Olsen
ships offer many attractive facilities and
activities. There are spacious, elegant
lounges for relaxing or taking in the
entertainment, ample deck space to
stroll or just enjoy the views in warm
weather, plus swimming pools, hot tubs,
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spa treatment rooms – not to mention Sample cruise:- To participate in Flagship Golf you must
an internet room, card room, library and Braemar has a 13-night cruise to the have relevant golf insurance, as well as a
much more. A full programme of activities Canary Islands from Dover departing 5th YDOLG KDQGLFDS FHUWL¿FDWH
– quizzes, deck games, lectures and talks October 2010, which offers the Flagship
– is offered on board daily. There are also Golf package. This cruise visits Madeira,
many shore excursions in each port of call, La Palma, Tenerife, Gran Canaria,
so non-playing members of your party can Lanzarote and Lisbon, returning to Dover.
explore the pretty white-washed towns and Funchal, Madeira’s capital, is famed for
take in the striking volcanic scenery of the its beautiful botanic gardens and also the
islands. cathedral where Columbus prayed before
Sumptuous meals are served in elegant setting off to cross the Atlantic. Tenerife is
dining rooms – there are both formal and also a very popular island, with its black
informal options – and every night there sand beaches, sheer cliffs, tropical forests Braemar
will be a programme of entertainment to
DQG WKH PDJQL¿FHQW 0RXQW 7LHGH ZKLFK DW
enjoy encompassing all kinds of music,
3,700 metres high looms over the islands.
comedy and dance.
In La Palma there are Spanish-style
whitewashed houses with ornate balconies
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and shady courtyards and the island is a
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delight to explore.
Prices for the cruise (excluding *PEKWLMT +SPJ TVSKVEQQI ZMWMX
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Flagship Golf is an extra £375 per player.

coming next + competition
■ Santorini island, Greece

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on your doorstep ■ maritime kent
siren
■ Rochester’s
cathedral and castle
Visit Kent
Coastal
The beguiling charm of Kent’s coast has long held Peter Ellegard under its spell, despite living all
his life across the Thames in Essex. It’s an affair of the heart, he readily admits
or as long as I can remember I have gazed North Sea, the clouds always seem to skirt my little cor-
F
across the wide expanse of the Thames ner of East Anglia and dump their load on Kent, piling it
Estuary at it; the low hills and green fields high on fields and roads while all we get is sleety or
beckoning, the lights of Whitstable twinkling snowy drizzle – what we call snizzle. Conversely, in
at twilight just beyond Sheppey’s eastern summer, the sea breezes keep us cool while over in Kent
edge, and on clear days the twin towers of they bask in tropical heat.
Reculver’s ancient church visible in the far distance. My first visits were back in the days of the paddle
I even cut my teeth on that view. As a lad we lived on steamers from Southend Pier, which took day trippers to
Southend seafront, and while looking out across the Herne Bay, Ramsgate and Margate. On school trips I
Thames one day I slipped and chipped my front teeth on sailed across to the Medway, marvelling at Rochester’s
the pebbledashed window ledge. castle.
Essex born and bred I may be, but Kent, and particu- The Medway towns still draw me back. Urban sprawl
larly its coast, has always filled me with fascination. may have grown around Chatham, Gillingham and
And, OK, envy. Whenever winter brings snow off the Rochester, but there are still hidden gems to discover.

On a recent visit south of the Dartford Crossing (why

isn’t it the Thurrock Crossing?) I spent a delightful
■ View of evening exploring the pretty village of Upnor. It is only
Canterbury
Cathedral just downstream from Chatham across the Medway as it
sweeps round in a huge arc, but it felt a world away as I
sat with my pint in a pub garden by the sea wall and
watched the warm sunset glow light up the moored
boats bobbing on the river.
Fortress
At the bottom of the cobbled High Street is Upnor
Castle, a well-preserved Elizabethan artillery fortress
which is open from April to October. Its guns failed to
stop the Dutch sailing up the Medway in 1667 and
attacking the British fleet at anchor off Chatham.
With its 113ft (34m) high keep, the tallest in
England, Rochester Castle is even more impressive. Its
gardens and moat area host events throughout the year,
including open-air concerts. Both castles are run by
English Heritage (www.english-heritage.org.uk), as
is Temple Manor, a 13th century Knights Templar house
in nearby Strood. Rochester Cathedral is England’s sec-
ond-oldest, with 1,400 years of history.
No longer a working naval port, Chatham’s maritime
heritage is preserved in the Historic Dockyard
(www.thedockyard.co.uk), which marked its 25th
anniversary in 2009. Set in 80 acres of Georgian and
Victorian architecture, costumed guides help brings its
400 years of maritime history alive for visitors.
Attractions include the three-masted sloop, HMS
Gannet, built downriver at Sheerness in 1878, as well as
a submarine and the destroyer, HMS Cavalier, which is
berthed where Nelson’s flagship, HMS Victory, was
built. You can also see how rope was made, watch steam
engines and sail on venerable paddle steamer Kingswear
Castle (www.kingswearcastle.co.uk), which operates
Medway cruises and even occasionally visits Southend.
Shopaholics have bags of choice at the Dockside
Outlet Centre (www.docksideshopping.co.uk) at
Peter Ellegard
Chatham Maritime, next to the dockyard, with more

than 40 brand-name shops offering discounts.
Charles Dickens spent part of his childhood in
Chatham and the last 13 years of his life living near
Coastal gateway Rochester, and he is celebrated at Dickens World
(www.dickensworld.co.uk), also alongside the dock-
Canterbury has always been the principal gateway to the Kent coast and pilgrims yard. This indoor complex is based around the life,
have flocked to its ornate cathedral ever since Archbishop Thomas Becket was books and times of Dickens, taking visitors on a journey
murdered there in 1170.Today it is tourists who come in pilgrimage, for its 12th back to the streets, sounds and smells of the 19th centu-
century spire and stained glass, and the tomb of the Black Prince. Canterbury ry. More Dickens history can be seen at the free
Cathedral (www.canterbury-cathedral.org) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Guildhall Museum in Rochester
along with St Augustine’s Abbey and St Martin’s Church. (www.medway.gov.uk/tourism).
Step back to medieval Canterbury and join Geoffrey Chaucer’s pilgrims on their
journey from London at the Canterbury Tales attraction Oysters
(www.canterburytales.org.uk). Hop across to market town Faversham to tour Britain’s
Take a guided walk or self-guided tour of the city’s maze of side streets, visiting the oldest brewer, Shepherd Neame, which has been brew-
oldest Franciscan building in Britain – Greyfriars – and ruined Norman castle ing since 1698 (www.shepherd-neame.co.uk). You
among other treasures, or take a boat tour on the River Stour. can go sailing for a day on the veteran, 1892-built
Just outside the city is Howletts (www.totallywild.net), a 90-acre animal park Thames Barge, Greta (www.greta1892.co.uk), from
with gorillas, elephants, tigers, bison and rare monkeys. Faversham.
Whitstable, on the North Kent coast, is famous for its
oysters (it has the country’s largest commercial hatch-

■ Whitstable beach
Peter Ellegard
ery) and you can sample them on the beachfront at the
Whitstable Oyster Fishery Company
(www.oysterfishery.co.uk). On balmy summer days,
nothing beats a picnic on the beach looking across to
Essex followed by a promenade stroll and a pint at the
Old Neptune pub (www.theoldneptune.co.uk) or a
local brew from a seafront kiosk. Buy fresh oysters and
fish at the harbourside fish market and browse the work
of local artists at the next-door harbour market.
The Historic Dockyard, Chatham
You can also walk or cycle the Crab & Winkle Way;
it traces the route of the world’s first regular steam pas-
senger railway, which linked Whitstable Harbour with
Canterbury between 1830 and 1952 and was engineered
by George Stephenson and his son, Robert.
Beyond Herne Bay and Reculver lies Thanet, the
■ HMS Gannet at the Historic Dockyard, Chatham sticky-out corner of Kent that takes in the county’s three
top seaside resorts – Margate, Broadstairs and
■ St Margaret’s Bay Ramsgate. Between them, they offer 15 sandy beaches
and bays, 10 of the beaches holding the European Blue
Flag award, as well as the longest continuous stretch of
chalk cliffs and the only Royal Harbour (at Ramsgate) in
Britain. Explore quaint streets, hunt out boutique bar-
gains and laze over coffee at seafront cafes.
Roman invasion
Just south of Ramsgate is one of Britain’s most impor-
tant, yet unsung, historic sites. Almost 100 years after
Julius Caesar’s first expeditions to Britain in 55 and
54BC, the Romans invaded in AD43 on the orders of
emperor Claudius.
Peter Ellegard
They landed at a site called Rutupiae (now

Visit Kent
■ Oysters at
Whitstable harbour Richborough), on the Wantsum Channel which then cut
the Isle of Thanet from the rest of Kent and linked to the

■ Richborough
Fort ruins maritime kent facts
Getting there ■ Broadstairs
Rail: Southeastern trains serve the Medway
towns, north and east Kent coasts from London.
Visit Kent
High-speed trains also now link Medway with
London’s St Pancras International station.
www.southeasternrailway.co.uk
Road:The Kent coast has easy access via the M2/A2
and M20 motorways. National Express coaches run from
Peter Ellegard
London Victoria to the region. www.nationalexpress.com
Getting around
A car is easiest way for getting around, but you can explore the
Thames Estuary at Reculver. Forts were built at both. Medway area on Arriva’s Medway Mainline bus services with the Arriva
Two miles from the sea today, Richborough was the Inner Medway Ticket allowing you to hop on and off at various places.
gateway to the new Roman province of Britannia and Tickets can be bought from bus drivers or at the Medway Visitor
was the starting point of Watling Street. It became a Information Centre in Rochester. www.medwaymainline.co.uk
busy town and port, built around a massive triumphal
arch clad in white marble which was erected in AD85. Accommodation
But by AD275 the town had been cleared and the arch Kent’s coast has accommodation to fit every
Peter Ellegard
pulled down to incorporate into the walls of the fort, budget, from luxury hotels to seaside B&Bs and
and by the early 5th century troops were no longer sta- self-catering. Get a real local flavour by staying in a
tioned there. pub. Just outside Sandwich in the pretty village of
Today, the thick fort walls, foundations and ditches Worth is the St Crispin Inn, a traditional 15th
are all that remains of this once-vital link in the Roman century pub offering four-star B&B accommodation in ■ Sandwich
Empire. It is managed by English Heritage. six rooms and home-cooked food. www.stcrispininn.com
Sandwich also owes its existence to the Wantsum
Channel, which created the natural harbour that helped Events
it become a major port, notably between the 11th and There are many festivals and other events around Kent’s coastal region.
13th centuries. It was one of the five Cinque Ports, Rochester (www.medway.gov.uk) stages an annual Sweeps Festival
along with Dover, Romney, Hythe and Hastings. They (May 1-3 this year), celebrating chimney sweeps’ traditional May Day
wielded power and wealth third only to the Crown and holiday, and an annual Dickens Festival (June 4-6).The Sandwich Festival
the Church. Sandwich later became a weaving centre (www.sandwichfestival.org.uk) is a week of cultural, music, sporty
and market town. Its rich heritage includes remnants of and fun events in August (2010 dates tba).
the Old Town Wall, Fisher Gate and its Elizabethan-era
Guildhall. A stroll through its narrow, medieval streets Information
yields delights such as Holy Ghost Alley. You can also Find out more information on Maritime Kent from Visit Kent
take a cruise from the quay. (www.visitkent.co.uk).
White cliffs enchanting little treasure at the foot of the towering

Nearby Royal St George’s Golf Course is one cliffs. Watch the ferries bustling in and out of Dover as
of England’s premier courses and hosts The you feast on exquisite local food at the Coastguard pub
Open for the 14th time in 2011. Also close by restaurant (www.thecoastguard.co.uk). But leave
is the Rare Species Conservation Centre space for the cheese platter .
(www.rarespeciesconservationcentre.org), Beyond Dover lies Folkestone, Hythe and Lympne,
home to a unique collection of rare and endan- where the Port Lympne Wild Animal Park
gered animals. (www.totallywild.net) has the largest herd of
Deal and Walmer castles were built by captive-bred black rhinos outside Africa.
Henry VIII in the shape of a Tudor rose, as was Then there is the flat expanse of Romney Marsh,
Sandown Castle north of Deal – now all but best enjoyed from the miniature carriages on the
gone. Visit Dover Castle and explore secret Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway
wartime tunnels deep in the cliffs below. All (www.rhdr.org.uk). It runs to Dungeness, where you
the castles are English Heritage. This part of can climb the Grade II-listed Old Lighthouse
the Kent coast is White Cliffs Country (www.dungenesslighthouse.com) for glorious views
(www.whitecliffscountry.org.uk), and of the Channel and countryside.
Dover’s famous cliffs offer wonderful walks on I’m not sure what it is about this coastal siren that
the National Trust-managed clifftop chalk Peter Ellegard
keeps drawing me back, but I know one thing; from
grasslands. St Margaret’s Bay, where Noel ■ St Margaret’s where I sit, the grass is definitely greener over in
Coward and Ian Fleming both lived, hides an Bay Kent.

london life ■ the south bank
■ The London Eye

and County Hall lit
up at night
visitlondonimages/ britainonview/ Pawel Libera

beautiful South
The
London’s South Bank show is a real eyeful
S
ome of London’s most iconic from a marshy expanse of slum housing to Bank Centre, along with the 1960s-built
buildings line the south side of warehouses, factories and entertainment ven- Hayward Gallery, the largest public art exhibi-
the River Thames. From the ues in the 18th and 19th centuries, with the tion space in the country, reopening after
London Eye to the OXO Tower railway dominating the area. essential repairs on June 19 with the Ernesto
and Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, Second World War bombing raids devastat- Neto exhibition. Other essential art viewing is
and with a wealth of attractions, ed the area but, ultimately, were responsible at the imposing Tate Modern, formerly a
shopping and restaurants, not to mention a for its regeneration when the bombed-out power station.
vibrant arts and cultural community, the riverside was cleared and built on for the site From shopping and meeting friends for
South Bank is an area of unique contrasts. of the Festival of Britain in 1951. The Royal lunch, to a riverside walk taking in the views
Originally isolated and defined by the Festival Hall remained as a permanent legacy of the city or indulging your artistic side at the
Thames, the South Bank developed very dif- and after a recent major refurbishment now many arts and theatre venues, the South Bank
ferently from the affluent north side, moving makes up part of the 21 acres of the South is an area destined to be explored.
things to do include the new 4D Open: October-March, Tel: 0871 781 3000
Experience, a 3D film daily 10am-8pm; www.londoneye.com
The Merlin featuring spectacular April/September, daily
visitlondonimages/ britainonview
Entertainments in-theatre effects such as 10am-9pm; May/June, SEA LIFE London

London Eye wind, bubbles and mist, Sun-Thurs 10am-9pm, Fri Aquarium
Riverside Building, and adding an amazing & Sat 10am-9.30pm; Riverside Building,
County Hall, SE1 7PB fourth dimension. July/August, daily 10am- County Hall, SE1 7PB
One of London’s favourite Throughout March to cel- 9.30pm. The jewel in the crown of
attractions, this iconic ebrate the Eye’s 10th Cost: £17.88 per adult, the UK’s SEA LIFE cen- ■ The Tate Modern gallery
landmark is a must-do for birthday, all 10am flights children 4-15 years £9.50. tres, the London
unrivalled views of the can be booked for £10 per Family tickets £49.28. Aquarium has been plays including a stunning
city. All tickets now adult and £5 per child. Book online and save 10%. redesigned with new dis- glass Ocean Tunnel where

london life ■ the south bank
■ The South Bank
VisitLondonImages/Pawel Libera
visitors can admire grace- be a theatre lovey taking Game of Graces
ful green turtles. The tun-
nel leads to a dramatic
shipwreck, and the nail
drinks or a pre-theatre
supper at one of the many
arts centres, or enjoy
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Open: Open daily except Barge House Street, heavier than Big Ben. tops, jackets and
Christmas Day. Mon- SE1 9PH ● The letters that spell accessories.
Thurs, 10am-6pm, Fri- A riverside landmark out OXO on the OXO Tel: 020 7928 4050
Sun 10am-7pm. since the 1930s, the OXO Tower are in fact www.gameofgraces.com
Cost: £17.50 per adult, Tower’s renowned restau- stained glass windows,
children 3-14 years rant bar and brasserie and were designed to getting there
£12.50. Family tickets makes an ideal meeting circumvent strict
visitlondonimages/britainonview
£54.00. spot for drinks or dinner exterior advertising Train: Waterloo,
Tel: 0871 663 1678 with friends with fabulous laws. Waterloo East
www.sealife.co.uk/london views over the Thames. ● Most of the labour on Tube: Waterloo
Tel: 020 7803 3888 the current (Bakerloo, Jubilee and
BFI Imax www.harveynichols.com/ construction of ■ The OXO Tower Northern lines),
1 Charlie Chaplin Walk, output/Page128.asp Waterloo Bridge, Southwark (Jubilee Line),
SE1 8XR opened in 1945, was carried out by female Westminster (Circle,
Immerse yourself in the Pieminister workers due to labour shortages. District and Jubilee lines)
ultimate cinema 3D expe- 11 Gabriel’s Wharf, ● The original operating theatre of St Thomas’s Hospital
rience; with a screen over 56 Upper Ground, SE1 9PP was built in the roof space of St Thomas’s Church, staying there
65ft high, plush seats, Open seven days a week, purpose-built to maximise the light from above.
including double ones for Pieminister’s branch at Watch those pennies:
very close friends, 11,600 Gabriel’s Wharf serves Premier Inn London
watts of digital surround-
sound and the most
delicious, award-winning
handmade pies from just
Suits you County Hall, County
Hall, Belvedere Road,
sophisticated motion-pic- £3.75, or £5.50 adding ● For families: combine a visit to the London London SE1 7PB
ture projection system in mash and gravy. A British Aquarium with a Thames river cruise. Tel: 0870 238 3300
the world, you will literal- tradition to be upheld! ● For couples: take a romantic champagne night www.premiertravelinn.com
ly feel like you are in the Tel: 020 7928 5755 flight on the London Eye.
picture. www.pieminister.co.uk ● For value: view the best in British art for free at Splash out: London
Costs and film times vary, the Tate Modern. Marriott Hotel County
check with BFI Imax for shopping ● For luxury: enjoy the fabulous five-course Chef’s Hall, County Hall,
full details. Tasting Menu at the OXO Tower Restaurant. Westminster Bridge Road
Tel: 020 7199 6000 From the splendour of London SE1 7PB
www.bfi.org.uk Harvey Nichols to an Tel: 0207 928 5200
eclectic mix of boutiques SE1 9PH www.marriott.co.uk
restaurants/ and arts-related shops, High-quality, precision
dining shopping on the South handmade jewellery made Brand new: Park Plaza
visitlondonimages/britainonview
Bank is an unqualified using primarily diamonds, Westminster Bridge, 200

Think of any dining expe- pleasure. sapphires and rubies, with Westminster Bridge Road,
rience and you can find it pieces being made on London SE1 7UT
on the South Bank. Stop David Ashton commission. Tel: 0844 415 6780
for an alfresco lunch or G2 OXO Tower Wharf, Tel: 020 7401 2405 www.parkplaza.com/
snacks at Gabriel’s Wharf, Barge House Street, ■ Gabriel’s Wharf www.davidashton.co.uk hotels/gbwestmi

london ■ news
Naval gazing
Discover the colourful past of the Old Royal Naval
College and Maritime Greenwich in the new £6
million contemporary cultural venue, Discover
Greenwich. Opening March 23 and using state-of-
the-art interpretation techniques, the story of
Maritime Greenwich and 500 years of history
from Henry VIII’s Tudor Palace,Wren’s Royal
Hospital for Seamen and the Royal Naval College
is explored through displays ■ The stego
saw us? Inset:
of historic objects on Dino fan
show for the first time.
Dino might on view
Charles Hosea
Highlights include the
Discover Greenwich
reconstruction of a
Tudor window from
Henry VIII’s palace using
original stonework and t’s not every day that a visit to Oxford
the installation of eight
■ Glass painting at Greenwich giant copper brewing
vessels at The Old
I Street could also mean encountering a
diplodocus or a stegosaurus in a Jurassic
forest but the new Dinosaurs Unleashed
Charles Hosea
Brewery, a new restaurant and bar containing a animatronic attraction at Parklife Oxford
micro-brewery. It continues the ancient tradition of Street brings 24 life-size creatures to the
brewing on the exact spot of the 1832 brewhouse. streets. This full-scale lifelike prehistoric
www.oldroyalnavalcollege.org exhibition is ideal for all the family, partic-
ularly young budding palaeontologists,
with interactive games and displays and and £11 per child aged 4-14.
creatures from the Triassic, Jurassic and Dinosaurs Unleashed
Cretaceous periods as well as the world’s Open: 10am-6pm Tues-Sat, 11am-6pm
first prehistoric aquarium. Sun, 10am-6pm March 29, April 5 and
Running until April 30, Dinosaurs April 12 (allow 30-90 minutes; this is a
Discover Greenwich
Unleashed tickets can be pre-booked walk-round experience and not a show).

online or over the phone, saving £1 per Parklife Oxford Street
ticket, although a booking fee is payable. 33b North Row, W1K 6DE
■ Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich Pre-booked tickets also give priority Tel: 0844 847 1770
entrance. Prices start from £15 per adult www.dinosaursunleashed.co.uk
Olympic parklands Theatre & show news

s London gears up The annual Night of 1,000
A for the 2012

Olympics, plans
Voices event celebrates its
10th birthday at the Royal
Marcus Ginns
have been outlined for the Albert Hall on Sunday, May 2

London 2012 Olympic with tributes to musical
Park which will transform theatre and Stephen Sondheim. ■ Royal
east London after the Hosted by Aled Jones in aid of the Albert Hall
Games. With work Leukaemia and Lymphoma Research charity, tickets
already underway to cre- start at £17.50 from www.royalalberthall.com.
ate the largest new urban
park in the UK for over
100 years by creating For an evening with a difference, visit the Wam
around 250 acres of park- Bam Club at the Cafe de Paris on Piccadilly Circus
lands, further plans any Saturday in March and April for comedy, magic,
■ Artist’s impression of Olympic Park
include “hanging gar- music and burlesque in a fresh, fun and wildly
dens” above the foot- unpredictable show.Tickets start at £35 online or
bridge from Stratford rows of trees at the on how plans for London £50 on the door, with dinner packages also
City with meadows, entrance to the park. 2012 are progressing, go to available. www.wambamclub.com
lawns and shrubs and ● For more information www.london2012.com.

Experience the Household Cavalry
Story in London’s Royal Heartland
Open daily from 10am
2 for 1 entry
on a £6.00 adult ticket with this advert.
Offer ends 31/08/10
The Household Cavalry Museum

Horse Guards, Whitehall, London SW1A 2AX
www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk

best for ■ hotels
down to the Thames below, as

■ View of Cliveden well as the beautiful Berkshire
on arrival countryside beyond. This stretch
of the river, between Windsor and
Henley, is said to be the prettiest.
In weather warmer than during
my stay, you can cruise from the
mock-Tudor boathouse on
Cliveden’s fleet of vintage launch-
es for a riverside picnic.
Close by is the Tudor-esque
Grand Spring Cottage, which you can

rent complete with personal but-
ler. Showgirl Christine Keeler
was staying here in 1961 when
designs
she met married Cabinet minister
John Profumo and they began a
von Essen Hotels

sexual relationship.
Chandeliers
Dining is an epicurean experi-
ence. I ate in the Terrace Dining
Checking out: Cliveden,Taplow Room, resembling a great library
with chandeliers. There is also the
flagship restaurant, Waldo’s, or
t has burnt down twice, been And what an The interior is
I
the less formal Club Room.
home to three dukes, an earl arrival! The grav- yet more ornate. Outside, Cliveden’s walled
and a Prince of Wales, and el drive sweeps You are led garden and heated outdoor pool,
has played host to virtually you past the through the adjacent to the chiming clock
every British monarch since lavishly- sumptuous tower, also featured heavily in the
George I. It was where the carved Great Hall, Profumo scandal. A Pavilion Spa
world’s rich and powerful came to Fountain of complete with has since been added, with an
stay and party. And it was the set- Love and on dark oak pan- indoor pool, hot tubs, saunas,
ting for one of the biggest scan- up the grand elling, rich tap- steam rooms and whirlpool spas.
dals to rock British politics. avenue towards estries and its There are also indoor and outdoor
As the home of American the 1851-built, richly-decorative tennis courts, and a gym. Or you
■ Terrace statue
Socialite Nancy Astor it was a Grade I house, where 16th century stone can simply work off your meal
Peter Ellegard
social hub, entertaining guests your bags are promptly chimneypiece, up oak-pan- with a stroll around the glorious
including Charlie Chaplin, whisked away by footmen (note, elled stairs with newel posts grounds, while red-tailed kites
President Roosevelt and George not bellboys). Again, inside just a topped by carved figures. hover in the wind above trees
Bernard Shaw. Winston Churchill small plaque discreetly welcomes A terrace looks out over the swathed in mistletoe.
learnt to punt on the Thames, house guests parterre (formal garden) and Peter Ellegard
which flows past the extensive
grounds, while staying there.
But today, anyone can stay at
the grand Italianate mansion, as
factbox
Cliveden is one of the jewels of Cliveden
the von Essen Hotels collection. Taplow, Berkshire SL6 0JF
Tel: 01628 668561
House guests www.clivedenhouse.co.uk
Actually hotel is the wrong way www.vonessenhotels.com
to describe it. When you reach the
side gate – the main gate is used Best for
by National Trust visitors, as the ● Romantic escapes
house and grounds are owned by ● Pure indulgence
the National Trust with the house ● Feeling like royalty
leased to von Essen – a small ● Fine dining
von Essen Hotels
notice next to the automatic gate

Peter Ellegard
welcoming “house guests” is the Could do better

only sign that you have arrived at ● Fix those clanking pipes
the right entrance. ■ The Terrace dining room ■ The Great Hall

for luxury day spa
and retreats
The Lorrens Ladies Health Hydro

Cary Park, Torquay 01803 329994
www.lorrens-health-hydro.co.uk
Best Western
Norton Grange
Coastal Resort
I Inclusive half board short breaks

Situated in the centre of Banchory the hotel is ideally I Beautiful secluded setting
located for touring the North East of Scotland and the City I Spectacular Solent views
of Aberdeen. The hotel is within easy walking distance of
Banchory Golf Club and numerous local attractions. Ample
I En Suite Chalet Accommodation
parking to the rear.

I Live entertainment & cabaret
* 18 en-suite bedrooms
I Leisure Facilities
* 2 lively Bars serving Bar Meals

I Exclusively for adults
* 2 Function Suites for Weddings, Dinners and Parties

I Ferry inclusive breaks available.
* Wining and Dining in the restaurant to suit all tastes.

I Weekend breaks from just £139pppb, quote 22TG8
25 High Street, Banchory, Aberdeenshire AB31 5TD Halletts Shute, Yarmouth, Isle of Wight PO41 0SD
Tel: 01330 824944 theburnett@btconnect.com Tel. 01983 760323 Fax. 01983 760468
www.burnettarms.co.uk www.nortongrange.co.uk

out & about ■ what’s on and where
Shiver your timbers – and win

FREE LEGOLAND®
family tickets
The Crown
f you have any budding Jack

■ The bar at the Crown Inn
I Sparrows in the family, set sail for

LEGOLAND® Windsor to visit the
Little chefs new Pirates Landing, the park’s third

new land in three years. As well as the
new Jolly Rocker swinging pirate ship, a
Get your children into the kitchen with a series of huge LEGO galleon that swings to near-
cooking classes for children at two of the UK’s most ly 60 feet (18 metres), wannabe pirates
historic coaching inns while they are off school.The can take to the high seas on the Pirate
Olde Bell in Hurley, near Henley-on-Thames, has Falls Dynamite Drench water ride and
been an inn since the 12th century and this Easter experience explosive effects and water
will see the first two of eight cookery classes taking cannons.
place during the 2010 school holidays. Children can learn swashbuckling and
Bread will be the focus in the first class, on April 6, seafaring skills at Pirates Training Camp
followed by chocolate on April 13, with chocolate and watch the exciting new stunt show,
fondant the featured recipe. Future classes will focus Pirates of Skeleton Bay. valid from March 20-November 7, go to
on sugar, vegetables, fish, pasta, fruit and potatoes.The As well as over 55 interactive rides, www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
Crown, a 16th century inn in Amersham, has a bread live shows, workshops and driving competitions and giveaways. Terms and
cookery class on April 15. It is also offering egg schools, LEGOLAND Windsor has 55 conditions apply. Closing date April 30,
blowing for children at 11am on April 3, at £10 per million LEGO bricks, all set in 150 acres 2010.
child. of parkland.
The cookery classes are suitable for children of all Go to www.legoland.co.uk for open- READER OFFER
ages.They start at 11am and cost £10 per child. Only ing times and prices. Cut out the voucher below to get a FREE
15 places are available, so early booking is essential. ● For the chance to WIN one of three child entry when accompanied by a full
Call the Olde Bell on 01628 825881 or the Crown sets of four one-day tickets to the park, paying adult:
on 01494 721541. Go to www.coachinginn.co.uk
for more information on the inns.
The Olde Bell
■ The kitchen at the Olde Bell

out & about ■ what’s on and where
Eggciting Easter events ■ Punting on

the River Cam
Easter events abound in the South East, weekend with hunting from egg to egg,
Scudamore’s Punting Company Ltd

including several in Essex country parks. a chance to meet the bunnies and make
Take your pick from these: an Easter bonnet to take place in the
parade.
April 2-5, 10am-5pm.Tel: 01245 321552;
www.marshfarmcountrypark.co.uk
● The 15th century, moated Oxburgh
Essex County Council
Hall, near Kings Lynn in Norfolk, has an

Easter trail as well as egg and spoon
■ Hadleigh Castle
racing and traditional egg-rolling.
Punt and hunt
Fancy an Easter treasure hunt with a difference?
Then board a punt in Cambridge for an Adults
● Go Easter Ori-egg-teering at Easter Challenge or Children’s Easter Bunny
Hadleigh Castle Country Park, near Hunt.The children’s event leads teams to their
NTPL/Matthew Antrobus
Southend, and navigate your way round own chocolate bunny or egg by answering
the park to find the eggs and chicks. questions located in town and on the river. For
April 5, 11am-1.30pm, £4 per child, to adults, the Easter Challenge follows a punting and
include a prize.Tel: 01702 551702; walking route with questions and team tasks.
www.hadleighcountrypark.co.uk ■ Oxburgh Hall Organised by Scudamore’s Punting Company
and Visit Cambridge, the treasure hunts take place
April 3-5, 11am-4pm, £1.50 per child for from Friday, April 2, to Sunday, April 18.The
the trail.Tel 01366 328258; Easter Bunny Hunt costs £35 per group per punt
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/oxburghhall for up to 75 minutes self-hire punting and an
Essex County Council
● Bletchley Park in Milton Keynes, his- edible prize, while the Easter Challenge is £50
toric site of secret British code breaking per group per punt for up to 90 minutes plus a
activities during World War II, is holding prize. Go to www.scudamores.com for details
an Easter Eggstravaganza family event and conditions.
■ Marsh Farm Country Park
including Easter egg competitions, games ● Readers can get a £5 DISCOUNT on tickets
and toy workshops in advance by calling 01223 359750 and quoting
● Marsh Farm Country Park at South April 5, 10.30am-5pm.Tel: 01908 640404; TLM.
Woodham Ferrers has an Easter fun www.bletchleypark.org.uk
sleepover in the medieval Guildhall.

Night at the museum 2 Cathedral tour, May 14, 8-10pm £2.50 per
child, adults free (suitable for over 8s). Tel:
01603 218320 or 218327.
pend a spooky night as museums, galleries chance to experience possible ghostly goings- Guildhall Sleepover, May 15, 7pm-9am,
S and heritage sites across the UK including

the South East open their doors for the annu-
al after-hours Museums at Night events. Over the
on. May 14-16, 9.30pm-3am, £30 per person
(not suitable for children). Tel: 01634 823814.
admission tbc. Tel: 01603 599577.
A Night in the Bunker

weekend of May 14-16 you can investigate a mur-
der, tour a cathedral and sleep in a bunker. Go to
Cathedral Tour and Churchill Museum
www.culture24.org.uk/museumsatnight for
more information. Events include:
Guildhall Sleepover and Cabinet War
Rooms, Whitehall
Norwich Spend the night in
A Murder in the Mast Cathedral/ Guildhall
Take a night time tour
Churchill’s atmos-
pheric World War II
House Ghost Investigation of the cloister and shelter beneath the
labyrinth of streets of Whitehall. ■ Churchill's bedroom
The Historic Dockyard, Chatham Norwich’s 900-year As in the Blitz, par-
The Historic Dockyard in Chatham hosts an old cathedral or wit- ticipants must bring their own sleeping bag
overnight Ghost Investigation in the Mast ness a mock trial of a and pillow. The evening includes dinner,
House and Mould loft, reputed to be haunted Protestant martyr ■ Norwich Cathedral breakfast and a cash bar.
since a murder there in 1875. This overnight burned for heresy May 14, 6.30pm-7am, £45 per person (over
stay looks into the murder and offers the during the 15th century, part of a spooky 18s only). Tel: 020 7930 6961.

travel and leisure directory
Budget Accommodation Channel Islands France

ALDERNEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS
L’HARAS GUEST HOUSE
Newtown Road,Alderney
Channel Islands GY9 3XP
All rooms have CH, H&C water,
tea/coffee-making facilities and colour TV;
most are en suite. Contact Mrs Jansen.
Tel/Fax: 01481 823174
lharas@internet.alderney.gg
www.internet.alderney.gg/lharas/
Motor Homes
Motorhome hire in Scotland
2, 4, 5 and 6-berth motorhomes.
Ideal for touring within Scotland and further
afield. All vehicles are fully equipped (bedding
optional). Our package includes unlimited
mileage, full insurance, AA cover.
End-of-season motorhome sales To advertise in the travel
For brochure contact
Brown’s Motorhome Hire, Garrion Bridge
& leisure magazine please call
Larkhall ML9 2UD (nr Glasgow) 01737 735587
Tel/Fax: 01698 886255
Northern Cyprus
Channel Islands
Sailing Holidays
Sailing
A1 Sailing Mallorca Sea School

Luxury Sail & Motor Yacht Charter
Warm breezes, crystal sea & sunshine

Modern high specification yachts from
32 to 72ft available for charter
• RYA practical & theory courses

• Beginner to Yachtmaster
Devon • Flotilla and bareboat holidays
• Dedicated RYA school boats
Perfect for exploring North Devon and Cornwall
Cottages sleeping 2 to 8, set in a 1.5 acre site, with good facilities
Get more enjoyment from sailing
situated in picturesque parish of Welcombe. Only half a mile from
WWW.A1SAILING.LTD.UK
local beach and pub. Good network of footpaths, taking you through
Devon wildlife conservation areas with plentiful wildlife and flora to
Tel: +34 971 547 986

observe, and coasting of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Please contact for special
Email: enquiries@A1Sailing.ltd.uk
discount quoting TLM

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March/April 2010 £2.50

the travel & leisure magazine

Navigating Europe’s waterways

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 3

■ Karst peaks, Yangshuo, China

TLM editor’s prize pics

4 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

6 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

■ The Kleine Scheidegg and the imposing Eiger north wall

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 7

■ Trekking near Chamonix

■ Golden Pass panoramic trains serve

■ The Switzerland Tourism/Robert Boesch

8 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

Oberammergau ■ The Oberammergau

The actors are still amateurs from the

10 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

Grindelwald One of the most popular of the Bernese

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 11

■ Jungfrau Railway, Switzerland ■ Hikers at Lake d’Emosson

Rhone-Alpes Tourisme/J-L Rigaux

Tirol Werbung/Robert Gruber

12 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 15

■ The Grand Bazaar

Turkish Culture and Tourism Office

Turkish Culture and Tourism Office

Turkish Culture and Tourism Office

16 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

Yerebatan Sarayi (Underground Palace), actually a

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 17

■ The Bosphorus ■ Istanbul’s

Turkish Culture and Tourism Office

and watching it flex its wings is truly fascinating.

18 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

Bags of use No more lines

C free shopping and

f you are planning on The first five titles are

I touring by car in Europe

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 21

Hair today, gone

22 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

■ Sailing along a tree-lined canal with Afloat in France

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 25

watched Rick Stein’s French Odyssey on BBC2, when

tips he cooked his way along the Canal du Midi on

● When packing, bear in mind that Self-drive boating holidays

26 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

7% of the cruise cost is recommended.

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 27

also hotel barges in France, Holland and Italy. For

● European Waterways (01784 482439; www.gobarging.com) offers

● A six-person charter on the Saint Louis Barge (+ 33 685 95 25 41;

Other boat and barge holiday operators

Hoseasons: 0844 847 1356; www.hoseasons.co.uk

28 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

■ Cruising on the Art de Vivre

30 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine March/April 2010

For a chance of winning this wonderful holiday, visit ■ Saloon

Question: In which year did European Waterways first

To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and ■ Fine dining

March/April 2010 tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine 31