NO.

37

NOTES FROM THE SHOP

$2.50

W~sl'lith
JanlFeb, 1985

Number 37

Sawdust

ISSUE. It'S par1. olhe nature of

woodworking to be intrigued by bow
things are built. Whether it be joinery, or
Ed...
hardware, or some obscure woodworking
Donald B. P81Chke
technique, there al\vays seems to be some-Oo$lgn Dlr6Clor
thing beneath the "urfllte or. project to
Ted Kralicek
perk up my Interest.
Asslstanl Editors
Having '"lid that, it'. probably no surStevo Krohmer
prise if I admit that I'm SOniCtines more
Doug 10. l.Hick.
intrigued with the technique involved with
building. project than the project itself.
Art DlrOClOl
This W!I. certainly the case with the
K.y Mulder
bathroom
cabinet shown in this issue. In
Technic8llllustralors
fact,
Ireally
didn't have a esbinet in mind
David Kreyllng
when I started this project - I just
MIke Henry
wanted to build some louvered doors to see
SubocripeoonManager
how they worked.
S.ndy J. e.um
This seem! to be a common amiction of
woodworkers. A nonnal person would go
Subscnption
to the store, buy a set of louvered doors
Chrlat., -MIner
and have the esbinet built in no time. But
Vlclry Robinson
Stroud
woodworkers tend to get more involved
than that. There's the ehallenge of figuring
ShIrley F.ltman
out how things work. and how to build
Ollna Starr
them - even ifit takes all day justf.o make
Compu,er Opera,lons
the jig to get tho project started.
Ken Miner
There's n similar story behind the T. V.
ClrctJJationManager
trays. One of tho problems I,faced was how
Jeff Farn.
to fasten thc tray to the leg assembly (to
Adm'nlst{stlve Assrstanl
hold the legs open when the tray is being
Cheryl Scott
used). At first I thought r could get by with
metal elips.
Building Maintenance
This was the easy solution -just go to
Archl4 Kraus.
the store and buy the clips. lVell, the clips
worked okay for a while, but soon they got
WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114) 1$ P<JbIished bent and twisted out of shape. r decided it
bimonthly (January. Marcil. May. July. Sep- was time to replace them with some shop_.
Nov_I by Woodsmith f'ubIisIjng made wooden catches,
Co,. 22OOG<andAve. o..s_.1Owa50312.
The hard par1. w1I$ figuring out a simple
AIlOlITnllS

_I.

WOODSMITHIs a registered ltademarlt 01 the

Woodsmilh Publishing Co.
'CopyrightlM5 by WoodsmilhPubfoshing Co.

All RighlS Reserved.

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Second eli poltage. paid at Des Moines.

Iowa.
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FOnTI
3579. to WoocIsmIthPubllsh"'9 Co., 2200

STATEMNT OF O~RSHIP.
(R1'Cpiftd

way to make them. r slept on it. and eventualIy managed to come up with a nice little

wooden est.ch that works just fine ...

another triumph of shop-made over storebought.
CQPl"RIGUT. We li'equently get letters
asking if the projects shown in lVood,,'niJh
can be produced and sotd - either to raise
nl9ney at ehuroh bn1.anlll CI' for profit at

craft. fairs.
The answer is yea. In (act, we're always
happy to hear from woodworkers who
were able to sell projects shown in

lVood"mW,.
If there's contusion in this area, it probably bas to do with the copyright protection. This protects our rights to tbe
text, photos and drawings for the projects;
These cannot be reproduced or sold with
out our written consent.
Th"DRX. Bound in the center ofthls issue is
a four-page Index to the projects, techniques and information shown in the first
36 issue. ofll'ood.milll (No 1 through No.
36). I hope it makes finding information in
the back iSJIues 3 little easier.
l'tiDLISllER"S STA1'E~IEN1'.Every year in
theJanuaryfFebl11l1ry issuo of Wood~mit",
we're required by the Post Office to print
the Publisher's Statement shown below.
It basically shows that our circulation
stands at about 197,000 (up I'rom 151,000
last year). But these numbers are based on
the September issue, With this issue,
we've broken the 200,000 mark and stand
at about 226.000.
Nt:tt &tAll.tNG.The M....,hlApril issue of
lVood8mitlt will be mailed during the week
of April 15. 198U.

illXAGE~lE:-;T ANI) CIRCUI.ATION

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Grand Ave.. Des Moines. Iowa 50312.

BACt( ISSUES

All baCk Issues of Wood!/l1{lh ate SliU ..-.

Se<1d fot booklet describing the conter1!$ and
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of .. baCk ,ssues.
SAMPLE COPIES

A. Total no. ~

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and we'lI send sample (al no COSt).

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l'ublilitlt'r Editor

WOODSMITIi

__

T_~ & Technigu_e_s__

MACHINES ON WHEELS

Like mall)! horne woodworkers J have

more tools than space. By mounting some
of the larger machines on casters I'm able
to roll them into position when Ineed them
and out of the way when Idon't. The problem was that 1 didn't want to work on
machines raised up high on rolling or lockdown casters. and 1 couldn't easily adapt
the expensive retractable casters to many
of my large machines.

DRILLING JIG IMPROVED

LOCATING HINGES

It was a great help to lise the angled drill- I recently finished building some cabinets
ingjig (Wooll.mitll No. 35, page 22) to drill that had a number of flush-mounted doors.
the slanted pockets fo. the wing struts in. At first Icouldn't figure out how to get the
the biplane. But I found i~ even easier hinges lined up properly. AtWr placing the
when Imade a modification on the-jig.
hinges on a door, it seemed like J needed to
011. of the problems I noticed "vas that hold it at the correct position and then
the !!mall wooden block between the two
fftONT riDGE
pieces of pl;<wOOdtended to slip and move
around. By t~e1im. 1measured the correct distan ee between the two pieces Of
plywood, inserted the small block, and
then correctly positioned my workpiece on
top, the block would move.
r solved Ihe problem by .uttinl> a
o/,oN-wide
da(jo in the base piece of plywood
;r ~
,befooo attaching the hinges. I then cut a lV-:::.
,.::;::::
STOItY S!lCX
new longel' block that would fit tightly into ~ ON EOGEOF 0001..
JAARK POS1TtON
the dado but could silll be J;'e)110\'ed.
Of $CREWHOlES
I'also marked distances on the block that
'\'ould indicate commonly tiRed angles.
crawl inside the cabinet to mark the location of the hinges on the cabinet stile. I
CUt !lOCK TO SUOt
finally eame up with this Simple 'method
IN OAOO. MAIM
that is helpful when mounting a number of
O.STANCES OF
STOP
?'
C;:OMMONANGLS
doors.
FENCE ....
First, I mounted the hinges in the correct location on the edge of a door, Then 1
~t- - -- - ~
made" story stick out of a piece of VI' thick
SCI.,.p. 1cut it as long as the hEtight of the
door opening and as wide as the door
'"
~
.'
thickness.
Next, I centered the strip alongside the
~"
f6'\l"ri'.?~_.)
V,- OAOO
edge of the door and flipped the hinges
over onto it. I carefully marked the loca'Phis saved the oftcn inaccurate job of tion of all the screwholes in the hinges onto
'measuring .the height between the two the strip. Then I drilled holes all til. way
plywood pieces at. speelfic indexlng' point" lI"'OU9" the W' strip at theS<lpoints.
Jl:tWr dl'jJJing through the strips it was
Rob",t K. Gral((
AI'- Ill' . simply a matter of holding the strip (rather
~'" . mOl' than the door) up against the stile and
punching through the holes to mark the
COLOR CODfNG
stile. Finally, I drilled at the.punch points
While I'm adjusting equipment in the and moun led the door in place.
Using the other side of the same temshop, I've always found it frustrating to
plate,
1 was able to mark the opposite
~aQ the wrong "trench, I've solved the
cabinel stile as long as the hinges on that
problem by using a color- coding system.
I bought a variety of small bottles of door were in the same location.
blight colored enamel at a hobby shop.
George P. Seife}t
The.n I~
color-coded the nuts and bolts by
Sflorevielu, Millne8ota..
size to match the color painted on the same
size wrench. For example, the ~. wrench f----------------i
has a red stripe on it and all the lioNnuts
S.ND IN YOU. 'DElIS
and bolts on my machines have a red doton I----------------i
them,
Uyou'dtilCeto share8 woodworld~tipwith Olher
This. method is especially useful .if you readers of Woodsmirh, sena your Idea to:
have more than one size chuck key or 'floodsmitlt, Tips & Techltlqu&s.2200 Grand
router wrench in the shop, The few Ave.. Des Moines, Iowa50312.
minutes it takes to painton the stripes and
We pay a minimumof$10 forUps,and $15 or
dots. Saves time and frustrafion later.
more tor special tech(11ques(that ate accepted
fo' publication). Please give 8 complete exL.D. Fredrick planation of your Idea. If a sketch Is needod,
Aspen, ColQrarlo send i' 81009: we'tI draw a new one.

c:'C

2
HINGfl> ROUTER
lAeLE PEDESTAl

_Jf'"

I designed a simple "flip-down" system

could
be a apted ontomy
other machines.
I
that
worksdgreat
table and
mounted
2" casters to two router
pieces of2)<4
and
then hinged the 2X~'Sto the pedestals of
the router table. When the table i$ in use
the casters are kicked inward and the feet
rest firmly on the ground.
r designed the system to fit on my Wood'
smith router (able that has \4" plywood
pads at the ~nas ofth~ ~estals: :But as!
was mounting the hinges, I discovered
that-the thickness of the hinge knuckle has
to be less than the thickness of the pads 01'
the table will rest on the hinges. Since the
2V," butt binges 1 used' were too thick, I
added an extra piece of y." plywood to each
of the pads to allow clearance,

MOVING POSITION

RESnNG POSITION

Before the 2x4's are mounted. ,..ride

notches are. cut on both ends, This allows
the 2x4's to clear the pedestal pads when
they're flipped into position.
Harold S. Bourgoin
BellevlIe, IVashi1lgun,

WOODSMITH

~~/i~~~~~~!J.
~.'i
II (,

1:v. Tr~y_s

A NEW DESIGN FOR AN OLD FRIEND

The other day I was at a local
discount store and saw a set of
"solid wood" 'I: V. ~ . They
looked like wbat you'd expect
from a discount store, but I
wanted to see it they were
sturdy. They're not. When I
touched the ODeon display, it
wiggled like a duck at dinner
time. Then I began to wiggle
when I saw the price tag: $240
for a set of four trays and a
stand.
That's when Idecided it was
tim. to go ahead with our
plans to update the original
design we ran in issue No. 16.
When IheflrstsetofT. V. trays
was built, we used an arrangement
of dowels and
wooden nuts to work as a pivot
so the legs could scissor open.
This system works, but I ntways wished there '''8S an easier way.
Then about. yeur ago, I
learned about a new type of
hinge that I thOlllfht would bo
ideal for T. V. trays. It's culled
a Rotc-Hinge. see ~'jg.1.
This is actually.
very
simple device that's just two .-:-_-;-_--:_-:---:-:-:_
wooden drums held together with. rivet.
length of 28Y,.
(Note: These hinges work well, but they're
This length for the legs will make the
a little loose. A couple of healthy tap" on tray about 26" off the noor, which is an "in
the rivet will tighten it up.)
between" height. Irs. mtle low ifthe tray
THE LIGS
is used when sitting in 8 chair, and it's a
little high for use when Sitting on a couch,
I ordered the Rote-Hinges first (see but. good compromise overall.
Sources, p. 24), and then started work on
ROUNDENDS. After the legs are cut to
the legs. First, rip the four legs (A) for length, the four corners of each leg are
each tray l!'t" wide and cut them to.
rounded to radius of !'t", see Detail in
~'ig.
3. To do this, I used a quarter (25e) to
MATERIALS LIST
draw the radius. Then r sanded theeorners
OY.roll

Wooden Co"ch (2)

'y-' ...

'v.

1'1. 21'4

I'!,. 19'h.
~. 16\10
'V,. III 1t;, 3
''', 1%. 13V.
ty. 1'It 23tf4
.t. III 13V.. 2tV.
13'1. 21III
ty, 1% 3

CUTTING DIAGRAM

,. HOlI O""
.lOU'110 fN STOCK

II
so U,

lIGS 101

UNOIsrlucrED

fOlDIWG ACTION
(WAN' fXAGOElAftD)

\ ' . CtA.
SOUOflyn
" ....

A '..

,0

OOWll
WASHER

HOLES AT TOP 0" L&(;S. There are also

holes at the top of each leg. On the ol<lfid,

legs. drill a 0/," hole centered %" from the
top for another Rote-Hinge (thar. used to
join the outside leg to pivot block, see
Fig. 5). Finslly, at the top of the i._id.
legs. a 0/, hole is drilled for the erossw,
see Fig. 3.
62

D'm4'",MHtl! 23V."w III 16d .. 26'"h

A "-9' (4'
Stretct..r (1)
C c.-ba,(t)
o ~t llodts (2)
E Frome 5,;1" (2'
f Frome Roit .. (2)
G Plywood (1)
H form.co (2)

to shape on a disc sander.

Next, all the edges on both
sides of the legs are chamfered. The easiest way to do
this is on a router table using a
chamfer bit with pilot. (Note:
An option is to round over all
the edges wilh a Y," comer
round bit. This can be done
anywhere the project ealls for
a chamfer.)
MATCI! ~'P
LEGS. Next, holes
are drilled il) the legs to mount
the Rotc-Hinges. However.
before drilling the holes, it's
best to pair up the legs to determine how they fit together
best.
If the legs are warped, they
should bo matched so the warp
doesn't interfere with the folding action, see ~'ig. 2. TeSI
each pair of legs fOI'tho best,
action and mark the sides that
will face each other.
DRILL "OL~
Now drill ~"
holes on the marked sides for
the Rota-Hinges, refer to t'ig.
4. These holes arc looltlecl 12'
down from the top of each leg,
see Side View in Fig. 3. Note:
These holes are not centered
on the length of the legs. I wanted to
provide a little wider stance at the bottom
of 'he legs, so the hinge (pivot pelot) is
shifted up a little.

@
)
OUTSIDE
l(CS-

WOOI)SMITH

PIV01"BIlOCJ(. Now pivot blocks (D) are

neeaed to join the legs to the tray: To make

JifGURE 3:

-T'

. ",'
t

th ..se blocks, first eu~ two pleces H~' wfde

by 3' long, see Fig. 6. Then drill a 0/." hal.
for the Rotc-Hinge, centered on the length
and width of the black.
Next, counterbore %"~di8. holes in the
pivot blocks, and follow with o/t6~dia.
shank holes. (Note: Cheek the depth oflhe

ROTO.HING

",l..

'iVOl~oCtc
stE- OffAl L.
FIG. S

\"'DOW'C

16lh'" tONG

counterbore so lV:"-tong screws extend

only %' into tlje \>ft. .plywood tray bop.)

'2"

After the holes are drilled round the 001"

ners to a lit radius, see Step 3 in Fig. 6.
t\IOUNT -R()T().Hlr<.'(;_eS. BefOl"e mounting
the Rote-Hinges, finisll sand ~he legs (especially the inside taces where it will be
difficult to get to after the legs are joined),
Then glue Roto-}iJnges into the holes to
join the tWQlegs. Also, glue Rote-Hinges
in place to join the pivot blocks to the
outside legs,
JIOUNTCROSSIIAR. Now the crossbar (Cl
can be mounted. Cut a %-<lia. dowel to fit
in the holes ill the inside legs. This dowel
should be cut to length so when it's in
place, the inside legs are 15'1<' apart, see
Ji'ig.'I. (If'the holes .I'e%' deep, the dowel
should be 16W' long.)
STl\E'OO8&R, The last step on the leg
assembly is to add a stretcher (B), see Fig.
7. Rip thest'retcher IY.! wid. and.to rough
length (about 20' long).
'1'0 determine the final length of the
stretcher, lay the leg assembly down as
shown in Pig. 7. Then measure the distan ee between the outside of the outside
legs. Not":
this measurement at the
top of the leg assembly (where the dowel
is). Then cut the stretcher to length so it

[
~ .. HOLES
......- Ofa>

fO,

ROUND OVER
DETAIL

"_"'"[:Y'

ROTO-HING

1J7}!

tNSIDE Li'G

,,,'

OOT$10E I.fG

~IDE V!E~
CROSS SECTION

R~OIUS

\~.

MUlE S

I( ,.',

Off' HOLlS
OUTslOf

lEO,

HOtE
CENTfJtfD
~~t
fROM
TOP EOGE

@
PlVOl aloe.:

Take

equals

-t.his

measurement,

To complete the stretcher; round the

corners to a Y.a" radius and chamfer (or
round over) the edges on both sides, See
Detail jn Pig. 8. Then to mount the stretcher to the 'iegs, couner!X>,-;' holes at the
ends of the stretcher for No.8 x tW' woodSCl"e\\'S, see Fig, S.
After the stretcher is glued and screwed
to the legs, filJ the eounterbores with
plugs, S811dingthem smooth with the surface of the stretcher,

COUNJlEtiBORf

y." DEEP

v.-

5.HANiC
HOLE
3'

C::ROSS SEc::TION

FIGURE 7
11/, .... x 1 ,,/,.
_,.- STRETCH!!A

OUTSIOElEG

WOODSMITH

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fORMICA

MAKi "RS' tASS

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PASS

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THICKNESS0'
PlYWOOD

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ON RNAl PASS

SAWalAOt

fiGURE lAo

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,
RAIL

$TOP CHAMfER
'ZIN AOM END

,-

, ,~tll).J
GlUllOf' 10GtTH!l.
1KfN tOUND OVH
COIHU',

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CHAMnR

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~

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yA' ....'OOM ,HO

V ('"./

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ust a.ISfllO
RMISH CHAMfER
'H)

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"'UNO' INTOBIT

I'AN[~

the Formica down as you go.

Shop Note: The bottom of the pl)'wood
must also be covered with Formica. If only
one side is covered, moisture from the air
can still penetrate the exposed plywood
side, and the panel "ill warp.
CUT FRoL\lR PIECS. Now the frame
pieces can be cut to rough size. Rip the
rails (F) and stiles (El to a width of lYoo",
and cut them 10 rough length (about, y,,"
longer than shown in t'ig. 9).

cur GROOVES. Next, grooves are eu1.on

MAKE 5ECO,.0

fEN(E'

After the legs are built, all that's needed is

a tray top. The one shewn in the photo is an
oak frame with the Formic. panel. To
make the tray, 1 started with the panel.
The panel is piece of W' AlC plywood
with Formiea laminated to both side s, Cut
the plywood (G) and the Formica (H) oversize (o. least ~'larger in both directions)
to allow for trimming .
Lo\MJNATE 1'11 FORo>IICA. Then laminate
the Formica to the plywood by .presding
oontactcement on both surfaces. When the
cement is dry to the touch, place dowet..
along the plywood (see Fig_ 10), and align
the Formica at one end of the plywood.

Then removeonedowelat a lime, p~ing

ifiOVl( 11

""" .. 10

THE TRAY TOP

~"

the edges of the frame pieces to accept. the

panel, refer to Pig. 11. To set up this cut,
use the Formica-covered panel to ndjusl
the distance between the fence and tho
outside of the blade, ace !'ig. 12.
Set the depth of cut to %' and mnke "
pass on each frnme piece, !ICeStep 2. Then
flip the piece around so the other faeo i~
against the fence, and make another PMS
on all pieces, see Step 3. finally, adjustth.
fence to clean out the w""te left between
the first two cuts.
RABBET FORMICA.Mer the groove. nre
cut, go back to work on the panel. rirst,
trim the panel to linal~ize, see Fig. 9. Then
rabbet the back (bottom) side with a ~'
rabbeting bit. see fig. 13. Sneak up on the
depth of cut so the remaining tongue tits
snugly in the groo\-es in the frame.
CL'TTO LESGTlL Now Ihe frnme pieces
can be cut to final length. The stile. (E) are
cut to length to match the width of the
panel (13;'). The rails (F) are cut to
length to match tbe distance between the
shoulders of the rabbets on the panel
(2Ov.") plus the width of the two stiles
(I y,,' each), for a total of 23.".
CL'TrosellE$. To join the frame memo
bers, cut rabbets at the ends of the .. iles to
produce tongue. that fit the grooves, see
Fig. 14.
C8AMFR EDGES. Next, I cut chamfer
on the inside edge. of the frame to ease the
transition between the panel and the
frame. This chamfer is cui along the entire
length of the stiles, but must be stopped on
the rails. refer to Fig. 14.
To make the stopped cut, mark. point 2"
WOOOSMITH

from both ends of the rail, see Fig. 15.

Then cut the chamfer on router table so
the cuts start and slOI) on these marks.
ASSE"t81,i1-~
FRA~I&. ~'ow, the frame
pieces ean be glued and clamped to the
panel. After the glue i. dry, complete the
last W' of the chamfer on the inside edge of
the frame with a sharp ch~I, see Fig. 16.
Then round the outslde comers 10 \I.radius, and chamfer (or round over) the
outside edges of the fram e.
ATTACH TRAY TOP TO UGS

outSIDE

''0

I"-

At last, the tray tOI)can be attached to the

legs. To do this,lay the leg Msembly on the
tnly and position it so the pivot blocks (D)
are equal distance from the side edges of
lhe fl'3Jlle. and lV.' from the front edge.
see Fig. 17.Then drill pilOl holes and screw
the ph'ot blocks in place
11'001);< CATCH. To hook the crossbar in
place, I made two wooden catches (I), see
t';g. J 9, Drill three
holes in each block,
And cut out the shape of tho catch with a
coping saw or on a bandsaw
To mount these catches. position them so
they're about \I from the inside legs (to
allow forelearanee)and I~'(rom the back
edge of the tray frame, and sere", them in
piaee , see Fig. 18.
,'INISHINC. To finish these T. v. trays, I
Applied two Coats ofWalco medium walnut
to both stain and seal t he wooden parts.

lIGU.' '20

r.: .
"

*'"

'

ptVOT &lOOK

,'II .. GltAltANCt

woor

.\."

.AOIUS

CAfCt-4

WOODEN

...

CATCH ......

_r:~';".
t...._,

2
,.

HOlf

BACK VIEW OF
fOtDED TV TRAY

,.

T-MOLDING
W. also tried another version .fthe tray
lOp uhing.y, oak plp,ood with plastic
T'IQolding 10 eever lhe edR~" To make
!hi, panel, cut the pl)"""od 23'Y,long by
16" wide, and round the corners to I"
rll<liU8, see Fig. I. 1'h('n rQu~a Slul
1I.'ound the perimeter
tho plywood
with. \I,,. slot cutter; "eo t'ig. 2,
"PI.Y'('.MOLDING
To apply the T
molding. cut it to rough I.ngth (about l'
longor than the perimeter of the ply
wood). Then, before th dbesive i.
ftpplied. layout the comers. To do this,
th. molding in the slot, starting at
the middle of one of th~ long sides. \\~ ie n

, .'

for a plywood top.

;,~ -/~L--..J

O! ~

or

% Pl'l'WOOO'ANll

o.oov, IN --

Aovr

<,.,.'.2
....... ~

I'

COUNT'.CLOCl\YtSE
DllltChoN

OIitOOVI

~
U.sl

I.,

CINTlRIO

ON STOCI
SlOT

cun WITH

",OT

I"''''

" ttAOIU$
oN COINIIS
\

:...._~""-,._

...

17

you gOl to a eorner, eu.t()ut "v" notches so

the molding bends e,ier, see Fig. 3.
When all four corners are cut, pull the
molding out of the olot, and spread vinyl
ba-ed adhesive in the .Iot and to the edge
of the plywood. Then 1"'" the molding
back in pia..,.
JOI~me

exes, There"a neat Jitt)>

trkk 10 making II elesn joint whore the

IWO ends meet. un UI)the tl'aUing end
"lid trim back the Reclloll of the 'r
molding that fit. into the groove so it'.
flush with the starting end, see Flgs, ~
and 5. Then with n sharp knife, eUI
through both laye"" of the over-lapping
molding to }ield a clean joint, see fig. 6.
\VOODSMITli

I
i:.~~~~T~
;;;~~-~~
,

CUT "Y'

NOTCHIS ro
WIN' AItOUNO
COINflS
USI VlNn lASt
AOH1S1Vl.10 GWl
lH .....cr

, 10111

'_

LV. Tr~y_S_ta_n_d

ROLL-AROUND STORAGE
We thought it would be niee to
have a stand to hold a set of four
T.V. trays. And because of the
weight of four tra)'$ (it adds up
quickly). we designed the stand
with casters.
This stand is giant inverted
1"" that holds the trays leanto
fashion. Tobuild it. I started with
the base p~.
THEBASES.Each base corutiSIJ!
of two pieces (A) laminated
togelher. see Fig. I. t'inlt cut
four pieces of 414 stock to rough
size. m' wide by 23'long. (These
piee.. Star1.out oversize to provide some room for trimming
aft.er they're laminated.)
SOTCII&S. Now lay out the posilion of the notches that hold the
end. of the tray tables. First
mark a lino centered on the
length of two of the boards, sec
Fig. I. Then mark the location of
four pairs of 1(.( holes to form the
corners of the notches.

Working from the centerline

out, mark the centerpolnts of the
holes fOI"the first pair of notches
SOthe first hole i8 centered 411."
from each side of the centerline
and ~. down from the top edge.
Then the secondhole oflh. psiri.
marked IV.' away. For ~he outside notches the first holes are
centered m' from the center- --------tine. and the second holes of the pair are
also lW' away.
CUI" om NOTCH.Aller the position. of
the bole. arc marked on both boards, drill
the %'-dia. holes. Then usc a sabre saw or
band saw to cut the notches to shape. Finally,sand the edges olthe notches smooth,
rounding over the top corners.
MATERIALS LIST

~I.

_Pl ....(.)
8 SoM St,.fc.h.,.. (2)
A

Jt

C Hood" (1)
D MiddJ. Stretche, (1)
E Uprigh.. (2)

CUnlNG

2'1, 21'1.

1'/,14
3. 14
'Y. lilt 14
'-V,. " 1'It

~---------notched boards
are laminated to second boards that have
large dadoes (or lap joints) centered on
their length. (\Vben the two boards arc
laminated together. this dado aeuially ereates a mortise for the upright. see Fig. l.}
Mark lhe position of this I~'-wide dado
soit... ntered on the length of the board.
SF-COSO HOARD.

~'~~U.~'~l~-~'~'---~--------------~~-

...
_,~.. ..._
-.-r
lr~HOU~~'~':~=-t-~~~?~;-~~~~~~Pl~(.j---i-~~
tADWS -

1
11/,

:a"I.

'Ihen cut it by making multiple

passes over the sawblade.
LAlliNATE THEBASE.Now the
boards can be glued and clamped
together to fonn the bases. As
the clamps are tightened. the
pieces may slip around little but try to keep the top edge. and
the ends aligol.
When the glue is dry (evernight). cut the laminatoo pair to
final size by trimmingofrthe bottom edge and both ends. Then to
complete the bases, round the
corners to a W radius. and chamfer all edge.~on a router table.
TUE BASE STRETCII&RS. The
bases are joined to two stretehe ....
(8). Cut these base stretch ....
I y,' wide and to rough length
(15~. Then determine the final
length by placing on. of the T.V.
tray leg a... embli in the notches
of lhe bases, see Pig. 2. Measure
the distance between the inside
faces ofthe bas , subtract ~. for
clear-cinco,and cut the stretchers
to this final length.
IIAN OL~ AND STRKTCIIE R.
Next, to join the uprights. the
handle (e) and middle stretcher
(0) arc cut to width (se. tlg. 3).
and both pieces are cut to the
same length as the base stretchers (B).
TUt: QA.'/1)LE.
After the blank
for the handle is cut to size. drill holes to
mark the shape of the hsndhold.... Fig.
3. Then cut out the shape with sabre sa w;
and sand the edges smooth. F~naIly.chamfer (or round over) the top and beuem
edge. of the handle and the hand-held.
THEUPRIGHTS. The last pieces to cut for
the stand are the uprights (E). The up-

2'.,,'

--,-1;.

~,,~..ot.lI..'I\-WlOI DADO
((N1tI[D ONS1OOI:

DIAGRAM

WOODSMITH

!.
TVTRAY'1I0S-.,

~'. ('' ,,, S1OC1<\ ~

W

....

,...

AGU

~ ;Q,:~

I'- l'/..-..!

,
j_

~'~

ILt'"

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\,

.-

ItAOIUS
HOd

..

$Yo"'

r.+-.-

nt~

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, 'N'

'j'

~f'

1'Ia"HOlI

-.

CtlfTOM

HANDlE ANO SfHTCHE.S ARl SAME UHGTK

USI 4,4 (lV,61 STOCK

~~

J..
I,,,,

,
STIIToe: 13 ......

.IT

CUT TO fiT

r~:~.~~\!~~~R~~s""

ASSE.M8LY
Now that all the pi'_ are cut to final size,
they can be assembled. 1 did this by gluing
and screwing them together.
'rhe only problem here is drilling the
pilot holes for the screws exactly where
you \\"Mt them. Since there's no easy way
to clamp the pieces together to drill the
pilot holes, ( made a drilling gauge to mark
the position of the holes.
nlF. GAUGE.To make the gauge, cut a
piece of 414scrap to the same width as the
handle and stretchers (1.t" wide), See Fig.
o. Then mark two holes centered from
the edg<!s of the stock. Orin v." holes at
these points with a Portalign, see Fig, 4,
Now cut orr the end of the scrap piece to
produce the gauge.
~IARKPIWTHOLES. To mark the position
of the pilot holes on the base, center the
block between the two notches, and equal
distance (Ii") from the top and bottom
edges, see Fig. 5. Then use an awl to.mark
two points forthe pilot holes. Use the same
guide on the upright to mark the position of
the pilot holes Cor the handle and the
stretcher, see Detail A in Fig. 7.
No,,) drill pilot holes in the base I1"d
uprights, counterboring %" deep for.
wood plug, see Fig. 6. The same gauge can
be used to mark the poSition of the pilot
holes in the ends of the stretchers and the
handle. (Use a Portalign to drill the pilot
holes in the ends of these pieces.
ASSEMB~V,
To assemble the stand, glue

*'"

811(1screw the stretchers

.....:::

l'~
J_
-v- :'-<>

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ret/. .:r
tr'~
,....._,

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untoHTS

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COUNTUIOII

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TO SAM( WIOnc
ANO fHl(:KNtSSASSTlElQ4(ItS

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"I

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WOOOSClfW

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frl....;
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....

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TOP

"1(1.5 BEFORE
GlUING INTO

,.....

(i)

10
3)1;.

(!)

-~ ~:

lONG,
HALF LAP
'INON

CUlfO
fiT

MOI1\S

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118" 1 'frIO fh
WOOOSCtW
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AU EDGES

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ON
STOCK

.
~'TO'CHMV"

RETAILC

between the

bases. Then before mounting the uprights,

I mounted the casters to the base, see
Detail C. in Fig. 7, (it's a lot easier to do it
beCore tbe uprights are in the way.) F'inally, glue and screw the stretchers and
handle between the uprights, and then
glue the uprights in the mortises.
\VOODSMITH

I\~;;

MOlt$
CINTfRfD

..

~r.:~
~ ~ /

TO

righlSare cut 10 width (Iii") 10 maid> the

width of the dado (mortise) in the base,
rcfer to Detail B in Fig. 7.
Cut them to a length of 331',", and then
cut halflaps on the bottom ends to fit the
mortises. To complete the uprights, round
the top 001".1'8 to V," radius and chamfer
the edges, stopping at the sboulder of tbe
half.lap on the bottom end.

,. ti"'g

>I~

c-0

NOTE:

~
v.

(.'
AJ'TACH CAsnlS

IEfQl.E GW1HG
USE TO TOI
ASSMlty

Louvered Doors
A ROUTERJIG TO DO THE JOB
l'vea}wayswantedtomakeaset
of louvered doors. No, I'U take
that back.' What I really wanted
'vas to know how to cut the
angled slots that hold th.. Iouvers in place: Coming up with the
jig to cut these slots presented
an interesting challenge,
The slots aU have to be cut at
the same angle. and they have to
be evenly spaced. Since these
are two separate tasks, it's
appropriate that the jig I came
up with to do this consist$oftwo
pa~t,
there's a template that
guides the router to cut the
angled slots on the edge of the
stile (vertical piece oftbe door).
And second, th~Te'san indexing
rail that prcvidea a way to
''walk'' the template down the
stile in even, 1" increments.
Shop Note; The jig described
here could be modified to cut
dcuble-stopped slots for the louvers Itbe way most commercial :--:operations do it), but it would also
require the USeof a plunge route.r.
Instead, we cut slots that are stopped
onone end and open.on the other end. The
open ends (on the back side of the door)
are covered with keeper strips to hold the
louvers in place, see Fig. 24.
THE INDEXING RAIL

'lb make the jig, I started with the indexing rail. Choose a-straight piece o[ stock
2V," wid. by 24' long, see Fig 1.
Design Note: For convenience, the
length shown here for the indexing rail is
based on building the louvered doors for
the cabinet shown on page 14. These
doors are 9" wide by 17" long.
STOPPIN.After the indexing rail is cut

combination square to the

approximate center and mark
lines from both sides. Then it's
easy to centerpunch a point
exactly centered between these
lines, see Fig 2.
DRILL HOLES. Drjl l the \4'
index holes I" deep down the
edge of the Tail.Then switch to.
countersink bit (or use a Yo"
twist bit, as shown in the detail
in Fig. 1) to chamfer the edge of
the holes so it's aasierto insert
the index pin.
THE TfMPLATE

The 14 holes on this indexing

rail are used to move a template
in l' increments. The template,
in turn, guides the router so i~
cuts stopped grooves at a 20
angle along the edge of the
workpiece (door stile),
THE TE~IPLA'I'E. The template
consists of a Masonite base with
two fences that hold both the
-:--::-:::-_::-_-:---:_
workPiece and the .indexing rail
tosize,anuay,'holecenteredl!'fromthe
in place when the slots are routed, see
end of the rail for the stop pin. Since both Fig. 3. (!'tote; The jig we used for the
sides of the rail are used, this pin sticks photo has-a Plexiglas base so you can see
Ollt on both sides, see GI'<!SS
Section in tbe routed slots, But I'd recommend
Fig. 1.
Masonite for the actual base.)
INDflXlNG noJ.ll$. Next, mark the posiTHE PBNCE$. 'lb maketlie template, first
tionsorthe indexboleaon the top edge of cut two fences, IV'1'wide by 11'long out
the Tail. The first hole is centered aVo' of 0/.." plywood, see Fig. 3.
fr om ebe
. Th en mar k 0ffl 0 more
THE BASE. Then cut the base out of a
"" sto
Swl' pm.
positions (for a total 0(14) in I" increme- piece of Y." Masonite so it's 11' long (to
ots along the length ofthe rail. At each match the length of the fences). The
position draw crosslin es centered on-the width ofthe base-is determined by adding
thickness of the Tail to mark tho canter- up the combined width of the two fences,
points of the \4' Index holes.
plus the thickness of the index rail and
Shop Note: Sin,ce 'York i. dono from the workpiece (door stile), see Template
both sides of the indexing rail, make sure Base Betail in Fig. 3.
these holes are exactly centered on the
DRILL HOLES. After the base is cu.t to
thickness of the rail. To do this, set a size, mount the' fences by drilling Y,."
"GUJ!; 2

NOTe-:

y..- HOLES

MINI,MUM LENGTH
FOR:SAmaOOM,
CAalNEr DOORS

CENTERED
ON STOa:t(

SUGHTLY
REAM
HOLE TOPS
WITH
LARGER aIT

_l"
1-,"10

~NCH CfNTtR$
WITH AWl

WOODSNlITH

hole. centered on the width and 0/." from

nNC.

the end of each fence, see Hole Detail in

Fig. 3. Then drill 0/0" holes in the base
eentered directly below tbe v." holes.
(The oversieed holes in the base allow for

tORNER DETAIL

HNet

minor adjustments when the workpiece

is mounted in the jig.)
LA" our GVII)E sun: Next, a keyhole-

shaped slot i. eut in the base of the template to guide the router at 25, refer to
Fig. 11. To layout this slot, the position of
the indexing rail has to he marked on the
Masonite base.
To do this.lirst bolt one of the fences to
the bese, lining up the outside edge of
tbis fence so 11.'. nush with the edge oftbe
base. see Fig. 4. (From here on this is
referred to 88 the "fixed" fence.l
.lARK LINes. Draw a line along the edge
of the fixed fence, see Fig. 4. Then hold
the indexing rail tight against the fixed
fenoo and draw another line, see Fig. 5.
S!:TT.8&VEI.. Now the centerline of the
k.eyholeslot ean be marked. Remove the
f",edf.nee and use aslidingT-bevel set to
an angle of 25" to mark the eeeterlme of
the .lot, 800 Fig. ?
Shop Now: The way J set the T-bevelat
256>was to draw two lines 57/a'" apart on a
piece of scrap Maaonite. aeeFig. 6.Then J
marked Point. A on the rust line so it!s
2;y.' up from tho bottom edge, and marked
Point B whore the seeond line intersects
the bottom edge. Draw a line eonneeting
the two points and a<liust the sliding Thevel to this Iino to produco a 25" angle.
CENTEI!LIN':. With the T-bevel set at
25, lay iton the Masonite base and mark
a centerline that starts 20/4" from one end
of the base, see Fig. 8.
MARK HOLes. Next, mark the position of
the start and stop holes. The centerpoint
of the stop hole is v... [rom the line marking the edge of the indexing rail, see Fig.
8. Shop Note: This is 8 lii."-di.a. hole to
match the outer diameter of the guide
bushing for the router see Fig. 10.
START HOLE. After the stop hole i.
marked, mark the '"-<lia. start hole 2;y."
from the center of the stop hole.
I1<DEX1I0r.E. Also. mark the position of
tbe Vo-dis.hole for the index pin. This
hole is centered between the two marked
lines, and Va from the front end of the
base. see Fig. 8.
I)IULL HOLES. Now drill the boles to
form the keyhole shape. Start with the
,"-dia, bole. Then drill the %.'-dia. stop
hole, and continue with a series of 'Yl~i'
holes along the centerline, see Fig. 9.
Uae a sharp chisel to smooth the edges
ofthi.salot. As it', trimmed I<> size. sneak
up on the width of the slot. cheeking your
progresa 80 the guide bushing fits snugly
between the edges of the .lot see Fig.~O.
When the slot is complete. attacb both
fences to the base with carriage bolts and
wing nuts, .. e Fig. 11.
WOODSMITI-!

ftGUI'6

_.J

~VOUTANGLE

ON SQflA' PIECE
1 .-

SUDINO
;SIVtl

ffGUU 9

Ull.

0IAl StltlS Of ',-.HOllS ClNTI.tO

OHWUNf

_-

,
1,...'!

"OUIIE 10

CHICf( tcEYHOI.I SLOT

WITH oun), IUSHIHO

I" HOl!

I::t&
UH'
"l

CLEAN our
WAstE

WffH CMJUl

tNOlXING
IMUHI

't._" 0.0.

GUIDE
IIUSHING

I..

o
11

CUTTING THE SLOTS

toIQJE; wo..... a SlUD

roHOOUCf
TWO$ml$

NOTE; lOUT fOUrrtlN SlOTS rol

eAJH~

srCUI,lHOfXING
.AlL AND

CAIIKT

INDEXING "N

WOlk"'CI

<:

IN Y1$E)

.I

SUDI! JIG AHEAD to

.oUT NEXT SLOT

FUP JIO OVER

-'-IXIO
'INC'

IlIAUGH RXIO flNCI WITH

tLOJE;

1001 Of flMPlAfl &ASt

KEYHOU: SLOT ON
OrPOsn 510

CUT 10TH

snus

fORMAl WlDtK

T~d'tt

I'OStJION IAIl
,. FIOM UNt-

"

ou.W SOU.. I
ACiOSS (NO
OfAISl $lOl
;I

TOP

E)

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o UHf"'"

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,

....

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~

SOUAa'

AC.oSS
.. DOf
LAST SLOT

MAlI( OU1$.Dt

EDGE Of RAil TO
OnlltMlHI
IENOTH 0' $tlll

IOnoM./
'NO

12

--#o\ARI( OUTSlDfc
EDGEOF i,Alt 0
DEtERMINE LENGTH
Of STili

Once the indexing rail and the template

are complete, all that's needed isan index
pin to position the template along the
indexing rail.
INDEX PIN. The index pin is a 3" hex
head bolt with the head cut ofT.To make it
a Ijttle easier to work with. I cuta wooden
d.iscand attached it to the threaded end of
the bolt, see Detail in Fig. 12.
cersruzs, Thejig isready to use anhis
point - now it's just a matter of cutting
the stiles to size. mounting them in the
jig, and routing the slots. However. J
round it's a lot easier to work with stiles
that are cut to double width.
That is. cut a workpiece wide enough
for two stiles, plus an extra ~ .. to trim
them to final width, see Fig. 12.AlIIO,this
piece should be cut about 3" longer than
needed and trimmed to finallengtb aficr
the slots are cut. (A workpiece 3.!N'" wide
by 20" long is needed for the stiles on the
bathroom cabinet door.)
MOU.''T \VORKPIECE TO RAIL. Clamp this
workpiece to the indexing rail 80 the top
edges are flush, and the back ond is
firmly against the stop pin, see Fig. 12.
."OONTTE"PLAl'E. Before mounting tho
routing template, make sure the fixed
fence is flush with the outaide edge ofthe
Masonite base and tightened down
firmly. Then place ~he template on tho
top edge of the clamped assembly (sec
End View in Fig. 12), and push the
acijustable fence snug against the workpiece and tighten down the wing nuts.
llOur SLOTS.Place this whole ..... mbly
in a vise and insert the index pin in the
first bole oflhe indexing rail, see Fig. 13.
Then to rout the slots, mount a V....
straight bit and a 0/,." (outer diameter)
guide bushing in the router, and sct the
aepth of cut to rout a Yo"deepslot.
Now tip the router on the template 110
the guide bushing goes into the keyhole
slot and rout to the end efth.slot. (In ease
the slot is fractionally wider than the
bushing, rout against one side of the slot
and then against the other side.)
From here on things get boring. Just
keep moving the index pin to the next
bole and rout the next slot (see Fig. 14)
until 14 slota are routed.
FLIPPESCES- After the slota are routed
on one edge or the workpiece, the fenees
on the template have to be flipped to the
other side of the base to rout the slota on
the other edge.
What you want to do here is switch the
fences from the bottom of the jig to the
top, keeping them On the same edges of
the base as before, See Step 1 in Fig. 15.
Then remount the carriage bolta, see
Step 2. Now flip the jig over (see Step 3)
and it's in position to rout the slota on the
other edge of the stile.
WOODSM1Tli

REMOUNT WOIlKJ>lEC. Since the jig is

flipped around. the workpiece has to be
flipped and mounted to the other side of
the indexing rail. Switch it around SO the
first set of slots are now on the bottom
edge hut still "poinang" to the indexing
rail, see Fig. 16.
ROI1l'SLOTS. After swit<:hing the workpiece. mount the template and rout the
slots on the other edge of the workpiece.
When you'", done. it should look like
what's shown in Fig. 16.
cer '10 FINAL SIZE. After the slots are
routed on both edges, rip two 1y,wide
stiles from the workpiece. sec Fig. 17.

CUTTO LEN(:TIJ. Now mark

r ,..

...

.,

..

.....

-6'-

.-,

...j

POQR fRAM~ !!ETAIL

1 ,,,.

IOUNO
COtil""
Of- TfNON

S1JLl

lORT

'f

MOIilTist

f:iQI!l.

fRAME SIZIO '0.

aATHROOM CAIINn
(fOUInIfN lOUV'.S)

the position

of the rail. on both ends of the stile. At

the top end, square a line across the stile
at the stopped end of the first slot. see Fig.
18. Meaaure up l' and square another
line. From this second line. mark off the
width of the rail (lV."). and cut off the top
eod of the stile here.
This procedure positions the top rail 80

;~-,D

_Lt.. OL.._'..

..'
lOUVER DETAI~

only 1" of the top louver is showing, see

CUT IlANK

Fig. 22. This is done to make the top

louver look like all the others. ('I'hey all
overlap so you only see 1of their width.)
B01TO)1 END. To cut offthe bottom end of
the stile. square across the end ofthe last
slot and mark off the width of the rail
(IYo,!from this line. see Fig. 19.
THE 00011PRAME. To complete the door.
cutmortises in the stiles. (Sec IVoodsmilil
No. 26 for n step-by-step article on cuiting mortise nod tenon joints.) Then cut
the rails to aize and cut tenons to 6t the
mortises. see Fig. 20.
After the joints are cut. dry-assemble
the frame to make sure everythjng6ts.
but don't glue it together - the louvers
have to 00 cut fiTSt.

LONG tHOUGH

TO PRODuce TWO LOUVERS

fROM tACH HALf

'I."~. CABIN")

1I0UllII;

...oil

'(NC'

IA"IOUNI).
OVII It'

ROUT All
FOU.
(OGIS Of
LOUVIR

QlOSS $ECTION
10f'lOUVEIl

MUST 8f IN PlACI

1"Ol(
",AMI:

GWING

TOGnHeR,

THE LOUVIRS

The louvers are V.tl:rickslats that arc

resawn (ripped on edge) from 414 stock,
see Fig. 21. The tricky part i. cutting
them to the right width. You want the
hack edge of the louver to 00 flush with
the hack face of the door, see Fig. 22.
Cut a ren piece and round the edges
with a V. round-over bit, see Detail in
Fig. 21. Then test the fit in the slots.
When you get a piece thOl's the right
width. resaw all the louvers. round the
edges. and cut them to length to fit
between the .Iou;.
ASSEMBLE
FRAME. Now the door frame
can be assembled. However, the top louver has to 00 in place. Cut this louver to
{itunder the roil. see Fig. 22. Then clamp
the frame together and let it dry.
KPRSTRIPS.Now mount the rest of
the louvers. see Fig. 23. To hold them in
pIace, mow,t keeper strips to the hack
side of the door frame. see Fig. 24. These
strips are mitered to length and screwed
to the frame with 1'>" br""" screws.
\VOODSMITH

"OUIltE 24

r-::::::::::::::-=::=:-::---..,
CORN Est PETAIL

03

KII',.
ST.,PS 'LUSH WITH
'NSIDt 10Gfi

C:EHTtI
SCREWS

...,..,.....
ON

WIDTH

O.

KffPfR
SlRIP-

~
COUNTlllOl1
SUOMT\'f

13

Bathroom Cabinet
WITH LOUVERED DOORS
After I built the louvered doors.
I needed a way to show them off
80 I decided to build this bath-

wanted them I<> overlap the top

and bottom of the cabinet
see Frent View in Fig. 1.'lb produoc this:v. overlap, the middle
dado must be positioned so
there's a 16V." opening between
tho top nnd bottom of the
cabinet.
8<YITOM I)AOO. A third dado is
cut ror the narrow shelf (f)
below the cabinet. This dado is
stopped 4" from the back edge of
the side pieee, see Fig. 2.
CROO"t! FOR BACK. Alter the
dadoes are cut. a groove is
needed for the plywood back.
This groove storts at the top
edge oflhe side pieces and stopS
at the middle dado. see Side
View in Fig. 1.
However, since this groove is
also needed in the top and bottom pieces (E) (see Fig. 2). hold
off on cutting it until it can be
cut on all four pieces at once.
1101..11I'OR DAR. Finally. T
drilled a Idin. hole Yo' deep in
each side piece for a towel bar.
see Fig. l.

V..

room cabinet. It may seem a

little backwards to build the

doors fint, but I felt they were
the trickiest part. of the wbole
cabinet - and presented the
best chance (or variations in the
final dimension8. Once the doors
were built, it W88 relatively easy
to build the ca binet to fit.
THE CABIN"

SIDES

I started work on the cabinet by

cutting the .ides (D) to size - 6"
wide by 29Y." long. see Fig. I.
DADOES.
The.idesarejoined to
the top and bottom of the eabinet
and a shelf with dadolrabbet
jointa. 10 do thi the first step is
to rout three v.-wide by
V.-deep dadoe8 in both side
pieces.

TOI'OWO. The dado at the top

of the cabinet i8 positioned so
the distance from the bottom
edge of the dodo to the top edge
of the side piece i8 equal to the
thickness of the eabinet top (E).
see Joint D.tail in Fig.!.
'IIOD~E DAOO.
The position of
tbe next dado (for the bottom of
the cabinet) i. determined by
the height of the doors. The
doors I built were I r high. and I
AGUlt I
,

THI CABINJ

The side. of the cabinet are

joined to the top and bottom
pieces rE) and the lower shelf
(F). To cut these three pieces I<>
size, rip the top and bottom

...

.......
'-1Of'

MATIRIALS LIST

Ir

1 "'.

NOTE, ~o..
OVI.lA' TO'
AND aonOMV.

A Door Sttl.. (4)

8 Door Roll. (4)
C Louv.,.. (28)
o Cabin.t Sid (2)
E Cabin,t Top/lim. (2)
F tewer Sh.l, (1)
GCop{l)
H Tow.I lor (1)

14

'I. x rw
II. x1~.6V ..

'V,. X 6 29'h,
'.. X 6. 17Ve
'JlI. X 4'h 17V,
'VI' )C 7'n . 19~

I" dow.' 17Vt

(Cl,lt

to flf)

CUnlNG DIAGRAM
(!JIO"O"'_'

''V..XIIh17

'1,,- plywood

, aa,k{l)

NOTE: LAYOUT GROOVES TO PROOUc.I

twO MlIt.ORIO S.OES

..

30-

O"'.nlil o;~.ilon.: '9V.- w x 7'1." d )(

.......0Wf.......

'+". X

I..
' .....
17' ,"

7V.-. 1T

TWO IOA.OS

E;,,, l,a.l",".~u"lw
..~,:,~
I

(l
G

@1OWlt.AI

f I" OOwtL')

WOODSMITH

pieces 6" wide (00 match the width of the

side pieces). Then rip the shelf to a width
of 41/2", see Fig, 2.
These pieces have 00be cut 00length so

when they're joined to the cabinet sides

the final width of the cabinet equals the
width of the two doors. (On the cabinet I
built tbis length turned. out to be I7Vs",
which allows for the two'Mo'-longtongues
to fit in the dadoes; see Fig. 2.)
Cm"l'ONG'UES. After cutting these three
pieces 00lengtb,l cut rabbets on each end
to produce a tongue to.fit the .dadoes in
the side pieces. (The tongue on theshelfis
trimmed beck 00 fit the stopped dado.)
GRoovESFq~ IJ.\CK.JS"owthe grooves for
the plywood back can be cut. Set up the
router table to rout 1I"-deep stopped
groove. in the sides (D) \4" f,om' the baC!<
edge, see Fig. I,Then use the same set-up
00ro.ut the grooves fo. the plywood back
on the oop and bottom pieces (E).
GAJlIN1' B"CK. After the grooves are
cut, dry-assemble the cabinet and, take
measurements fo> the plywood back.
Then cut it to fit in the grooves.
SIIAPETIfE SIDS PlRCflS. The last step is
00cut the curved shape on the front edges
of the side pieces. First, maek.a pojnf Va"
down from the cabinet bottom (El, see
Sid. View in Fig. 2.
Then draw a gentle curve from tIIis
point to a line J.I'back'from the front edg.
This line extends until it intersects a 2'
radius drawn at the bottom corner. Cut
this profile on the side pieces and sand
the edges smooth with a drum sander.
ASSE.mLF.CAU!NET. Now finish sand all
th.e interior surfaces of the pieces and
glue and clamp the cabinet together.
TUE CAP PrECF.. While the glue was dry.
ing, I cut the cap piece (0) for the cabinet.
This piece is cut to length so it cverhangs
.both sides 0/.( (see Fig. 4), and to width so
it overhangs the front edge of the side
pieces 1Yo', see Side View in Fig. 2.

,/.""~YWooo
lACK
(cur 'To RT)

<D
SIDE

,
"GU,E 4

CAP

ROUI!R lABUi
FENCE

SlOE

FIGU

es

WOODSMlTH

"1.-

1~'1.x 1V.':W
aRA,SS aUTT

FIGU~E6

GlUE UHfR
HANGER RAll
TO SACK

HINGE

'101

,I

"II
,

DOualfWIDE
!
'MAGNeTIC
CATC;H

1.0/.

SC1tEW lOWEll:
HANGER tAIL

"TOWA,Il-

,i

hinge mortises in the 'cabinet sides and

the door,.see Fig. 6. (I cut the mortises i~

the door first. Then mounted the hinges
and aligned them on the sides to mark
the position for the other nap.) Also
mount a magnetic catch, door knobs, and
shelf standards (for two glass shelves
inside the cabinet), see Fig. 5.
,IOUNTINC SYS1'EM. The 18$1 step is to
make the mounting system. Thi.s consists
oftwo bars.that have one edge ripped to a
30' angle, see Cross Section in Fig. 6.
Mount one bar 00 the cabinet and the
other to the wall so the beveled edges
interlock 00hold the cabinet to the wall.

#.8 ~

It! WOOOSCItEW

R()UND-OVE~611'

After this piece was cut- to Size, 1

rounded the frent edgeand both ends 00a
modified bull- nose profile using a \4"
round-over bit on the router table, see
Fig. 3. Then this cap is screwed 00 the
cabinet top, sea Fig, 4',
MOUNT DOORS. 'lb mount the <100\'$, cut

fRONT, VIEW CROSS SECTION

CROSS SECTION
,.... kEEPER STltIP

15

Three,..W~yShelf

FOR
MUGS,
COATS
O~R~~~-----

A place to hang your hat and eoat,... or

your mug ... or your towel. The design of
this shelf is "e,ible enough that it tan
easily be changed to a hallway coat rack, or
a kitchen mug rack, or a bathroom towel
bar. And it's nl80designed to break down
so it can move with you.
This proj""t hilSfour main parts: a shelf
assernbly made with slats and cleats, two
brackets, and a back. J started with the
shelf assembly.
SHUf

ASSEMBLY

The shelf is made up of five slats (A) beld

together by three cleats (B).
SLATS. To make the slats (A), first rip
five piece. of 414 stock (,,. thick) to a
common width of l~.
The length of the
slats can vary depending on your needs. J
wanted to be able to hang the shelf on two
wall studs (16" on
center). So I did a little
figuring to determine
what length the slats
would have to be to 10
este the bracket. 32" on
center and came up with
a length or 8W,".
Aftercutting the slats

to length, round over

the t4p edge. of each
slat with a v,' round-over bit, see Fig. 3.
)IARK POSITION OF HOLES. Once the
edges are routed, three screwboles are
drilled in each slat to attach the cleats. To
mark the locationof these screwholes, line
up the ends of all five slats and draw tines
acroos them with a square. Draw a line
1~'
from eacb end (this will position the
bratkets 82" on center), and at the exact
center of the length, see Fig. 3.
CIlOSSLINS. Next, draw crosslines
centered on the width of each slat. The
ensiest way to locate the center is with a
combinationsquare, see Fig. I.
Set the square for just" smidgeon less
fiGURE 1

than half the width of a slat (Yo"), measure

in from each edge, and put marks. Splittlng the dilference between the marks will
locate the exact center. Then punch the
centers with an awl.
DRILL HOLES. The screws at each of the
points are sunk below the surface of tbe
slat and covered with woodplugs, see Fig.
3. To drill the holes ror the screws, first
eounterbore a W-di a. hole ~. deep at each
intersecting point. Then a
hole is
drilled the rest of the way through to accept the shank or n Al8 flathead screw.
CLEA'I\l. With the slnt... completed, work
can beginon Ihe cl eats (8). Since the cleats

lJIi'

are all the same length and one end is

rounded over on .11 of them, I found it
easiest to layout all three cleats on a single
5" wide board, see Fig. 2. Cut the board to
a finished length of 9V.", and then round
over one edge on one end with a v.... roundover bit.
MARKPILOT 1I0Lt~~. nefore cutting the
cleats apart, mark the locationof the pilot
hole lines (or the screws. F'irst draw a tine

fiGURE 2
CUTHOM 4'.
STOCt( flV..'"

UII

COMItNAflON SQUoUt

to MAl. eaoSSl!HIS

16

.'
fl. CUAT
THIU MetS)

_"'i"'

e
II
1

WOOOSMITH

'III' back from the front edge (on the OPposite/ace from the rounded edge). Then

draw four more lines,2" apart.

Now, the three cleats can be ripped I~N
",'de. Th mark the location oC the pilot
holes, draw crosslines centered on the
"idth of each cleat, using the same com,bina!ionsquare,method that-was used with
the-slats, Finally, center punch each point
with an awl and use. a 'YJ2 hit to drill a
-deep pilot hole at each point.
ASSE,mLY. With the holes drilled in both
the slats and cleats, assembly can begin.
Start by screwing(#8 x INflathead screws)
and gluing the two outsid cleats 10 the
first and last. slats, see Fig. 8. Make sure
this partial assembly is square. Then
screw ana glue the remaining slats and
cleats together, checking the assembly
each time a new sjat is added to make sure

'~::====~~~~~~_:N:a:TE:

*"

jt's square,

::

ON

GLUE ANI) ~CJlW

OUlS10E SLATSTO END (IlATS,
CHKM fOR 5CWARE

------.5

RGUR

'!

The final step on the shelf assembly is to

glue I1oNdia. plugs into the counterbores,
Then chisel 01' cut them off, and sand Ilush
with the surface or the slat.

GlUED UflLANI(
FOR8AAcWS

f4,r4 STOCK_'o."'

The completed shelf assembly rests on two

brackets CO). !3olh brackets are cut ou~ofa
single 9" x 15' blank made from ghied-up
stock,.see Fig. 4.
..e,fter t,,~.blankis squared up, layout n
cardboard template as shown in Figure 4.
Then use .the template to trace two brackeis onto Lhe_blank.After.cutting them out.
file and sand the curves to finished shape.
fr you'le inqlu~ing the towel bar in the
design, drill. r-<l1a, hole, I10N deep at the
location shown in Fig. 4.
MOllTISE POR KE'i'!lOL HANCER. The
shelves are held on the wall with two nifty
little metal keyhole hangers (see Sow -ces,
page 24). 'lb hold. hanger in each bracket,

is routed

"I

8~

'-~----+-~w------------~'"rr
2'';-'/f'
I I BRACKETPAnE.llli

,,-

LOCATION FOR
1"' OIA.

rowe 8AR

.'
10'

~3>;

\
'.

' I.

~ 'h:..::_. ..--.;
(___TRACE f'A1T'ER,tt
ONTO 8LANK
WITH CAROBOARD TtMP'lAlE

NOTE GRAtN OIA;ECTION

'.

FIGURE (I

RGUaE'

on

the back edge, see Fig. 5. Rout the mortise

by making two passes with a 14N straight
bit on a router table 01' nith a hand-held
router and edge guide.
After the mortise is routed, a section of
the slot needs to be drilled out to accept.the
head of the screw that will be in the wail
1'0 do this, drill two 'Yoi' holes side-byside
and then chisel out the waste between the
holes, $I!{! Fig. 6.
Finally, screw the keyhole hanger in the
mortise with two No., 8 x 0/4~'screws, see
Fig. 7.
STO.I'PE0 RABB&T. After the mortises for
the hangers are complete, a stopped rabbet is. routed on the inside back ed~ of
each bracket to accept the back (1), see
Fig. 8.
Since the stopped rabbet is to be %N
wide and *oN deep, %' rabbeting bit can
be used 10cut it,in two passes, see Stepa 1
and2in Fig. 8. Start and stop the cut just.
bit short of the end lines and finish by
cleaning it up with a sharp chisel.

WOODSM1TH

t-!--2,,"-

ACTOA"

BRAOCET

BRACKETS

a o/uJ".odeep,~uj."-wide mortise

I-Y'.... AUSucrS
WIDE

ATlACI'f
KEYHOLE

"ANGE.
WITH TWO

#tI

x '6o

WOOO SCREWS

NQTE,

fiGURE 8

IF INCtUDI~~
rowa liAR,
DRILL'''HOlEl~''

[)fE',
<9

n.Sf 'ASS-ABOUt
HAlf. TOTAl DtPllt

17

AGUIlE '1

alACK"

. J

,1.~

'IOURI 10

T,

~."OOWll.,
LONO;>

,r
.

MOUNTING THE IUCKUS

_.

AOUIlII

Alter the stopped rabbets are routed, the

COUNTU$oIHK

brackets are mounted to the shelf assembly. I decided not to fasten the braekets permanently since I wanted to be able
to Ulke the whole unit 3par1. ror moving or
storage. Rather, Iused two short locating
pins in the top of each bracket to locate and
stabilize the entire assembly.
To mount the pins, drill two 0/6" holes, 14'
deep in the bottom ofthe second and fourth
slats. The holes are cenlered on t he width.
of these slat. and located 'Yo" rrom the
inside edge of the two outside cleats, gee
Fig, 9.
USING I)()W~L CEN'I'ERS. Aller drilling
the holes in the slata, use s" dowel centers
to mark the location of the matching' hol~s
on the top edge of the brackets,
Finally, glue two 'Yo' dowels. 0/01' long
into the top of each bracket. Then round
over the end of each dowel with $andpnper
to help them slide into the matching hole s,

SC'RE'WSIN BAa

f'OSmON TOwn IAR

auoaE ATlACtUNGlACK

The linaI piece to cut is the back (0). It's

ripped to a width or 5' (to match the
stopped rabbet on the bracket).
'Th delermine the length of the back,
tum the shelf a.ssembly upside down and
hold the brackets straight up against the
cleats. Then measure the distance between tbe brackets and add the depth or
both stopped rabbets, see Fig. 10. In my
case this came to a total of :!:M".
Alter the back is cut to length, rabbet
the ends to produce 'Y.' thick tongues that
6t in the stopped rabbets in the brackets.
see Fig. 11. Finally, round over the front
edges. with a ~I' round-ever bit.
LOCATINGmE PEGS. lr you are making
the coat or mug rack, possible layouta for
the holes are shown in Fig. 13.
A1'tACHING '1'1IE BACK. Finally, the back
is placed in the stopped rabbets in the
brackets and hole. are drilled for <1'8 x 1Yo"
flathead wood screws, see Fig, 12.
FINISH. 'Th finish the .helf, I sanded all
the surfaces smoeth and then applied two
coats of Hope'. Thng Oil.

18

..

T
"
_L

lACK

2"" llh-.

f-"-+-"
!

1"

+ ,

'"

..MUG RACK .

S'_
~

311-,"

lfNGTH MAY VARY

r--'''' -,
...
..-

T
s:
..1.

3~'.I 3"',,

T
-r

+
COAT RACK

1'h'-

j_

32',

.,,'

ORfll ....

HOlt.

... DIU'

CunlNG

MATERIALS LIST

SHAAtI KO

DIAGRAM

0v.nJ1l DitNNiOf'c
:STV, w",
d II 10Vc h

w.-

'at.. x 1. 31%
''A. II t.~. 91/..

51... (5)

Clock(3)

c
E

t,tO(k.tt (2,
1Io<~(I)
Dowel (fOf lowel lor)

MUij Roc.k ,~,

Shok., Pegt (4)

(6)

Jl 8";' 10
II/.t Jl 5 320/.
I" d;o 32'1."
y,' dia. Jl 3~
,,/.- dlo . 3)/."
''''.

I..,. "".,,,!......,,3;A@
A

_' c. ".,1
D
.sp

WOODSMITtI

Router Bits
WHICH ROUT TO TAKE
board, or plastic laminates, carbide-tipped

Back in lI'ood8milh, No. 31 we ran an

article about buying routers, 'Ib compare

bits are the WIlY to go.

The cutting edge on carbide-upped bits
holds up longer than high speed steel because it's an extremely hard material
(close to the hardness of diamonds) and is
also los. susceptible to the effects of overheating (losing It's temper),

the routers, we looked at several features.

But there WlUI one part of the router we
didn't discu6s- nnd it's probably the most
imll<l.1.antp'''1. of the whole routing operntion: the bit,
In faot, the qUIIII!yof the bit is probably
more important than the router itself. The
router, ;uwr all, just. provides the power,
the bit docs all the work. Which means that
the quality of the cut Is very dependent on
the quality of the bit.
So, what are the best bits to buy? Or,
more to the point, should you get a cheap
set of high speed steel bits irom Sears (on
sale), or spend the money on carbidetipped bits!
Almost every woodworker 1 know bas
been tempted into buying one of the sets
from Sears, The bits are downright cheap,
and when the)"re on sale, it's hard to pass
up buying the set.
But are they worth it? In some cases, I'd
have to say, yes,

Oom'on, YOU'\'q got; to be kidding. How

can you scriou~ly recommend those cheap

biLs? They're bearly sharp enough to cut

soft butter, they burn up the first time you
use them, and they're the kind where you
have to screw the bit and the pilot to an
interehaageable arbor.
Right. I'm not saying they're the best
bits in the world. Idon't even think Sears
would try to imply that. But they are a
~p
set to get started with. IT you don't
use them mu<h, they'll last forever without
a "cry big investment ..
The ones that do get used will probably
bum up fairly quickly and they can be replaced "ilh better quality carbide-tipped
blts, Of COUl'8<l, that's when you have to get
serious about buying router bits.
THl CHOtClS

Either wny, onee you've decided to move

up, getling quality - the right kind of
quality - In a router bit is important,
Which I. to say, just because the bit is
expensive or has carbide tips doesn't mean
it's the best choice.
HIGH ~PEEI) STEt~t..The fIrst choice to
make when looking at router bits is between bits made OUt of high speed steel or
bits that are tipped with tungsten carbide.
The biggest advantage of high speed steel
(HSS) bits is cost. They're generally about,
one-third the COOIt
of carbide bits.
But it's wrong to think of all ass bits as
cheap, throw-away bits, Bosch, PorterCable. and Hanson (to name three) make
WOODSMtTH

However, there are some disadvantages

carbide. In addition to being hard, carbide is also brittle - brittle to the point
that it chips easily. Carbide bits are also
expensive. And since we're talking about

no small investment in carbide router bits,

SOme\'eJ'j'
HSS bits that are
incredibly
In fact, high speed steel
wiD produce a
edge than carbide.
(UnforlUnal<lI)', it
last very long.)
These bits are ~I
choice in two cir.eumstanees: when you're working with

son. woods, or when you

11(1;0(1

a specialty

bit that will receive only limited use,

However, it's also easy to get into a
pri<'Cibenefit trap with the HSS bits. Since
carbide bits cost "bout three times that of
HSS bits, It's e33Yto ratlonalize: "I can buy
three highspeed steel bits, use them until
they wear out and still be ahead of the
game Over carbide bits."
The problem is that in some applications. HSS bits wear out VeJ)' quieklJ,"
They tend to dull quickly when used on
hardwoods and can bum up when used to
rout plywood or particle board.
Shop Note: Plywood and particle board
arc especially hard on router bits of any
kind. The adhesive used to make plywood
is very hard on" tends La dull the eutting
edges of HSS bits very quickly.

This, in turn, creates another problem:

heat. A. the biL becomes dull it beats up

faster, The heat, can become great enough
to actually draw the temper in the steel
(you call sec it turn blue),
Since there's 8 natural resiseanee to
throwing away IIny tool, the dullHSS bits
tend to be used beyond the point of
immediate frustration - when the bit
immediately bums the wood and burns
jL,<eJ(up.

c.ut810g.TIPP~O B.TS.The alternarive is

carbide-tipped bits. Admittedly. thec:ostof
carbide bila Is enough to make you think
twice txlforc bu)1ng. However, if you're
working co.lAist.ently with hardwoods, or
abrasive materials like plywood, particle

getting your money's worth quickly becomes importanL What do you look for?
TlUCKNIlSS Of CARBltl. One of the first
indications of quality (or lack of it) is tbe
thickness of the carbide tip. The thicker
the carbide, the more limes it can be
sharpened before it need. to be replaced.
That's the theory anyway, In reality,
carbide bits are not resharpened that
enen. So the thlckness of the carbide is
really" matter of "it's the thought that
counts." Usually, thicker carbide ,ndlcaoo$
the quality and CIIl'C the manufacturer puts
into making his bits,
CRtJ<OH MAJlK$, One or the primary indications of quality is how well the bit is
sharpened. Look closely for a smooth initial sharpening, especially on curved surfaees that cannot be retouched.
IT you can see grinding marks. the bit
bas been quickly rough ground. Better bits
"ill appear and feel smooth. And taking
this to the extreme, Bosch and Stanley
afTer Super Sharp bits that have been
ground to mirror finish.
ONE-PIECE

B1TS v Mt11.TI.PIECB BIT$..

Most carbide bits are one piece: the cutting

profile is permanently attached to the
shank. But Sears, Porte ....Cable and Stanley make multi- piece carbidetipped bits.
These have a .wlldard arbor that will accept different cutting hellds, The idea is
that it's less expensive to buy just one
arbor and then fit several cutting heads
with difTerent prontes on it.
\Ve still have several Sears interchangeable bits around the shop, At least parts of

them. The various heads, nuts, washers,

bushings, and pilots have managed to find
hiding place s.
Besides the h.1..<8le
of keeping track of all
these small p&r'I<S, I have one '"'IiO" objection to these bits. The pilots have come
dangerously lOO!!(!in operation. For this
reason, I've switched to one-piece bits.
8R1w~D SA.'ttS. Okay, let's get down to
'he bottom line. Is there. particular brand

19

of router bit~ that's better than the others?

Which i~best: Bosch, Porter-Cable,
Freud, Black and Decker, or Sears?
This is on. oHhefew times when talking
about woodworking toolB that the choice
between brands is almost impossible to
make, It's kind of like choosing between
Coke and Pepsi. There are some slight

edge and are designed for maximum chip

clearance. 'I'hls means )'OU can feed the
router faster through the workpiece but
the cut will be fairly rough. Double flute
bits give a smoother cut but there will be
more resistance so you 'have to feed it a
Uttle slower.

differences, but. when you're looking at

SINGl Fl,UTE

brand name carbide- tipped touter bits, a

bit is a bit,
For the most part, I look at price. B...

yond that, it's a matter of selection or

DOUBLERUTE

variet.y. Everybody carries .straight, bit!!

and round..uver bits, but each manufacturer has some specialty profiles or sizes
Ehat the others might not carry.
RECOMMENDED BITS

At the beginning of thi~ article, I was

talking about the relative merits of buying
a cheap set of high speed steel bits versus
buying carbide bits right from the start.
Because oHhecost involved, the biggest
problem with buying carbide bits is knowing which ones Yo"'re likely to use often
enough to justify the price of carbide. I've
been trapped both ways in the past.
At first, I bought only HSS bits. Then
when I discovered the merits of carbide, [

decided that was-the only \\!ay to go. But in

some cases, J have to admit that J think I
wasted money on some spc.cialt.}' carbide

bits that I \\'OU11d up using only a CC\\'times

when a HSS bit would have done just fln e.
Okay, which bits should be carbide and
which ones lISS? In fact, if you're going to
buy carbide bits, which ones should be
considered first?
There are a few bits 1 would consider
part of a primary set for building the kind
of projects we show in lVood8nlitlt. But
buying them as a complete sel.migh~ not be
practical because of the high initial cost.
Just to give some indication of the kind
of investment we're talking about, we've
listed the "average cost" of each bit, (This

"average cost'! was obtained from five

manufacturers: Black and Decker, Bosch,
Freud,
Por t e r- Cable, and Sears

"Professional' .)
STRAIGHT 81TS

First .on the list is a collection of at least

three straight bits, plus two more if you
want a complete.set. Listed in the order of

most.use, they are:

<\' STRAIGHT OIT. CAR810ETI~PEO. 2
FLuTE. (Average cost: $11.31). This is per-

haps the most basic bit and it gets considerableuse in our shop. It can be used for
cutting dadces, rabbets. grooves, and
mott.ises for hinges.
But for being such a basic bit, there are
several controversies associated ",ith it.
First, is itbest to get a y." straight bit with
one flute or two?
Single flute bits have only one cutting

20

STRAIGHTBIT

The other decision that bas to be made

\.;jth y."' straight 'bits is the length: the
longer the bit, the greater the chance of its
breaking. I've started using straight bits
with a maximumorl!' of cutting edge. This

decreases breakage, along with chatter

and vibration.
W S~RAIGIIT BIll'. IUGII SPEED STEIIL.

(Average cost: $2.43). This small straight

bit has some obvious uses for detail work,

like 2"Outing recesses for marquetry

(see IVoodsmitit No. 28).

inlays

But it would seem that a "'" slJ:aight bit

is far too small for general woodworking,
Bxactly the opposite is true. This. bit is
almost mandatory
in two COrnman
circumstances.
A ~"bit is needed when you have to cut
groove or dado ror V," hardwood plywood. Although construction (fir) plywood
is generally very close to Y." thick, almost
all the hardwood plywood we've worked
with is considerably Iess.man V,' thick. So,
a Yo" straight, bit is needed to cut greoves
and dadoesin two passes to fit the actual
thickness of the plywood.
The other primary use for a ~" straight
bit is for ~utting the grooves for spline
joints. We've used this tYPe o( joint on
several projects tojoin the ends of mitered
pieces to form frame. (Refer to Wood.""itll No. 21.) The V. bit seems easier to
control and produces a better groove than
working with larger y." bit.
This is one bit where it's difficult to
decide between high speed steel or carbide. Iuse it enough tojustifycarbide, but
the HSS version is cheap enough (average
eose: $2.43) to make it disposable when it
gets dull.
II' STRAIGHT 81'r. CARBIOI>Tll'PEO.

(Average cost: $12.93). After the y.' and

V." straight bits, it's a tough choice between the
and !t.o" sizes.
probably
use the Y.j" bit. little more often.
It's used a great deal on the router table
to cut rabbets and grooves. Even when 1
have to cut a VI'-wide rabbet on the edge or
a board, I use the V:t' bit because it produces a smoother cut with less chipping.

*"

'V.

Also, when cutting ."-wide dadoes or

grooves, most of the time it's better to
make two passes with a y," bit, sneaking
up on the ,,;dlh for a perfect fit, rather
than one pass with a 0/.0" bit.

4,

"I

W STrtAlGJJT BIT ANI) .Vi- STJL\JGJIT BIT.

CAllII(OTIPPI). (Average cost: $l2.04

and $14.58). If you' ..e working within a

tight bu~get fo. the. shop, %" and 0/." bits
can 00 added as needed. Howev .. ~T would
probably not mess around with high speed
steel first and replacing with carbide. I'd
go right to carbide on these straight bits.
This is especially true on the large'll"
straight bit. It takes out such a chunk "ith
each pass that it tends to heat up quickly.
Carbide is needed to withstand this heat.
Also thill size bit is often used for cutting
grooves in plywood. And since plywood
tends to destroy HSSbits, carbide is about
the only way to go.
ROUND-OVER 8ITS

Also included in the primary set of bits is a

selection of round-over bits. Before we go
any further, there's a problem to address:
what to call these bits.
They generally go by four different

names: round-over; rounding over, corner

round and quarter round. In addition, if a
smaller pilot is used' so a second shouldeican be produced. th~y call be calied beading bits.
II.'" RQUND-OVER BIT
ROUND-OVER WITH

~;" sKouloea

ROUNo.OVEft WITH SMAlLER

PilOf (lREATlS 8AotNG 8(1

One note about these bits: the pilot.

Round-over bits come with a pilot to guide
the I>it. But there are two kinds of pilots.
Most HHS bits (and Some carbide bits)
come with fixed pilots that rotate at the
same speed as the bit. This-means the Rilot
rubs against the workpiece at high s!l'*d
and burns the edge. The fixed pilot also
tends to collect resin from the, wood which
compounds the burning problem.
This is one of the primany reasons for
frustration with HSS bits. (Note: There's a
replacement ball bearing pilot for the
Sears HSS bits that's well worth buying.)
On the other hand, most carbide bits come
with ball bearing pilots that "jl1ually eliminate burned edges.
Vo- ROUNDOVER BIT. CARt)IIl'ETIPPF.O.

(Average cost: $24.9Zj. Of all the roundover bits, the Y4"size is the one that gets
the most use in our shop. When working on
contemporary pieces. it's used to round the
edges. While on period furniture. it can be
WOODSMITH

tm

set ror a sUghtly deeJl(lr cut to include a ment. My first choice would be Roman
,

shoulder,

see

ogee

drawing.

W ROIINI)OYERUIT. CAI!BIOETIPPED.

(Average cost: .$29.22). A !I," round-over

bit is also quite useful, but it is. without a

doubt, quite expensive. At an average cost

or almost $30. this is one time

when you
might think twice about the merits or earbide vs. high speed steel. I would still
choose carbide.
We'\'c come-to use the Y2- round-over bit
ror two profiles that seem to find their way

bit.
The carbide version of these bits is very
expensive, and you have to Rsk "0\'-' often
you're going to use the ogee profile to dress
up an edge. But in this case, the bit can be
used in other ways, sec drawing.
ROMAN OGEE

err

But when it. comes to router bits. I've

into n number of projcel$. The first. is a

eo(l.cned bullnose profile. Rather than
using a :Y." bit on both edges to produce a
full bullnose (a half-round edge), a 14' bit is
set to a sballow depth-of-cut to produce a
soner curve and a very pleasant edge. see
drawing.

r~

'h" ROUND-O'LE!LBJI

$OFJ'N'O OUUNOSO

..,.J...

00[( HOFIL( WITH

sou AI, $HOllLDEa

.-/ --~M~il:---..
-"'-'-O-lUN""V"
-or

'ON

TOP

Another profile we Uko is what we call

the "thumb" prolile. Here a Y.' round-over
bit is used on the bottom half or the edge,
combined with Q VI' round-over bit on the
top half. see drawing.
SPECIALTY BITS
In addition to the straight bits and round
over bits listed above, there are four specialty bits worth considering as part of a
plimary set.
\+. I)OV!lTAI~ BIT. CA'IIIIIH;.TIPPEI).

(Average cost: S14.66.) Unless you're a

fanatie ror maJring hand-cut dovetails, a W
dovetail bit is mighty handy for making
dovetail drawers. Of course. you need lhe
dovetail routing fixture to go along with iI,
but the whole set-up is worth having. In
addition to cutting drawer joints, this bit is
also used to CUI. dovetail tongue and
groove.

ttO'

R;\BBETINC RIT, CARUIOETIPP80.

(Average cost: $24.32). Although almost

every project we build has a rabbet on it
somewhere. we seldom use a rabbeting
bit. One reason is the limitation ol the
wldlh of cut. Another problem Is with
tearout on the bottom of the cut. (See
Talking Shop> page 22 for more on this.)
But when you need to cut. rabbet on the
inside edge of an assembled frame, particularly a curved rrame, rabbeting bit
becomes indispensible.

~yRO)IA.'t OCEE BIT. CARBIDE-TIPPED.

(Average cost: $31.84). There are a few

decorative bits that are worth the Invest-

\VOODSMITH

them clean with 0000 steel wool.

One note here: When eleaning bits with
ball be!lring pilots, remove the pilot before
dipping the bit in the cleaner. The pnrtlcles
of dissolved resin ean seep into the bearing
and gum It up so badly it won't tum at all,
SllARVE~ING. \Vhen it comCl$to the subject of .harpening rooter bits, I have a few
thoughts that run contrary to the way r
usually work with and maintain tools.
Iusually try to learn how to sharpen the
tools and keep them in good working order.

DOJl(lndingon the depth of cut. it can be

used to produce a small cove cut. By in
creaaing the depth or cut, it produces the
double curve ogee profile. And by lowering
it to II1lI depth it adds a square shoulder to
the ogee profile.
., GROOVE.HIGHSPEED STEEl . (Average cost: ~.67).The V"groove is anotber
decorative bit that I would add to the
~up. Although its primary use is to cut
V-grooves, It can also be used (on a route"
table) to chamfer edges. Although we use
tbis bit quite often, we've been able to get
by with the high speed steel version.
COSCLlJSIO~'S.Okay, whal about 810tting
culten and core box bits? No two weedworkers' lists of recommended router bits
will ever be the same. But I've tried to

include all the bits we use on tl more or less

~eg"lar basis for the projects sbown in
lVoodsmill!.
Suro there are times when we use a truly
special bit (a panel raising bit. a slotting
cutter, or a keyhole bit, for example) for
specific projects. At that point it's a matter
deciding the value of the bit for Ibat particular project.. (There's usually some way
I can justify spending money on woodworking tools.)
But. no matter what style of bit or
whether it's HSS or carbide-Upped. router
bits only do their job tor two basle reasons:
the speed at which they tum, and the fact
they're sharp. The router provides the
speed. But keeping them clean and sharp is
another problem.
CARJ AND SHARPENING
Just like saw blades, router bits eollece
pitch and resin as they're used. This
u8uaUy causes burned edges nnd can impede the cutting action or the bit.
Fortunately, it doesn't lake much to
clean router bits. r soak them in Sean; Gum
and Pitch Remover lor a while and wipe

developed some second thoughts about

sharJl(lning them in the shop.
Carbide bits can be sharpened with a
diamond hone ealled Eze-Lap (see
Sources, p, 24). These bon ... are like emery boards except tbey're coated with
diamond particles.
I've sbarpened a few bits using the
medium and fine-grit diamond hones. But
to be honest. I'm not sure this i. the best
way to approach sbarpening carbide bits .
There are three basic problems: First,
some bits (particularly small-diameter
straight bits) don't have enough clearance
in the flute to use the diamond hone.
Second, on the bits that can be sharp-

ened. the surface is very small, which

makes it difficult to control the hone to
make sure )IOU're applying even PI"CSSU1'e
so one area is not being rounded over,
And third, it's very difficult to make
sure the same amount of material Is being
removed from each lIute (cutting edge).
Note: Wben using a diamond hone, only
work on tbe face (fiat) side of the carbide
tip. The outer edge should not be honed
because the clearance angle could very
easily get messed up (and ~be bit won't cut,
properly). Also, on bits ,,1thcurved edge s,
it's almost impossible to keep the same
shape on both flutes (eutting edges). So.
only hone the race (flat) side.
Besides the diamond hones, I've also
tried using the Sean; router bit sharpening
attaebment - it's excellent for raising
your blood pressure, but takes enormous
patience to geL it set up to actually sharpen
router bits.
There's 8 better way: When the bit
starts getting dull, I take It to professional shop to have it sharpened. 'rho
shop we go to charges about SO to sharpen
carbide-tipped bit, and they have the
equipment to do thejob right. (They use.
400-grit diamond Wheel, and the bits come
hack extremely sharp - in much better
condition than I could produce by band.)
CONCLUSIONS.Wben the router bits are
sharp, they will do their job. In f"ct, when
I'm using a nice sharp bit, l've come to
think oflhe bit as the tool and the "outer as
the accessory. And the nicest part of all ibis
is that it only takes a limited number of bits
ro do. 101or work - an investmenl that's
well worth it.

21

Talking Sho

~---

AN OPEN FORUM FOR COMMENTS AN o QUESTIONS

ROUTER ROTATION
It! Woodsmith No. 36, the... '008.'''' article

i"Sh"ll Notes on ,'OUtillf1tabllels1<singtI.e

router lab16.Jl~tllearticle, y.,< mellli .. ,ed
UtUt yolOImd 1I<l idea wily making a lig/tl.,
back.Vlrd$ SCO)"'19 I/(lS'~produced a very
smootll cut on ti,e e"pofed edge of the
1Vlbllet.
TI"'... 's ",wry,good 1'easo" ,olty this pro

Since the workpiece is fed in the same

direction as the rotation of the bit, the bit
tends topull the workpiece in the direction
of feed - almost as if it's self-propelled.
The force of the bit increases as the
depth or width of the cut is increased - to
the point that the workpiece can 'be pulled
out of your hands (kind of like kickback in
reverse) - a dangerous aituataon.

Cedtlre prod'uc6s SltclJ. a 8100tl, cut. In

Tegular qr lortoord 'routing, the toorkpiece

i.fed. i,d" the router tnt .,< a direction
oP'/Wsiteth.rotatioll oflhe [)it. lwthi case.
tne cutteru co"'ing from the boU",,, of the
Cllt and is puslting the cllip "p to the sur
face. (This i. called up milling
1ll tat

KNeE

i,.

1JJO)k.)

/~fT ff_NC~
fOR
Y.,"WID (UI

':;;;
. , itl

.-

The problom, i. that lhemalerial aloll9

the edge of the piece isn't '''pported. TMs
alJow8the chips being,pushed ahood of the
cutter to break allt, or spli'lltertILe1JUUelil
a/<)'llgthe edge lief")" the clltter')'ooches the
surface and OOl'I. make a.. elea]" Cltt. (Ed.

V~~

See drawing.)
lV}'6'" "takitlg a backlOG':!/. cui; the
ll.:orkpiece is fed. ill tne same dirtctiott. as
the rotation of the bit (this i8 caUed down
milling), and the c"tting acti.. , is just the
opposite. Feedi~ng i'lt thia directiOlt, tile
cuiter is clitting dozultWal'd i1UOtne wood
along the <:oposededge, a1m lite material

To reduce the amount of force and eontrol the cut-on the router table, only a light
seonng' pass should be made in this "down

beh'il remoued.is always '"TYfXJrted by tile

material behind it.

~~.....

MAteE 'Io~WIDE
8ACKWA~I)S
S{:OR1NG PASS

r+:

spare time. And to top it off, he ran out of

matenial. Since the lumber used in the
sample kits is.donated by nves members.
the call went out to members for more
lumber.
Finally, enough lumber has been collected fOJ" the kits, and Damon assures us
they're keeping up w;f>h the orders. All
future orders for the $15.00, 31-piece
sample kits should be sent directly to
Damon Vincent, School of the Ozarks,
Point Lookout, MO 65726. He also wanted
us to mention [hat anyone ordering' the kits
should allow 6 to 8 weeks fo,' delivery.
We'd like to thank the members: of the
IWOS. and Damon Vincent in particular,
for their efforts to produce the wood
sample kits. Sample kits are almost lmpossible to lind anymore, and we appreciate
their efforts to keep them a vailable, and
.rford~ble.
The IWeS also publishes a montly
magazine called 1I'0r.ldof Wood Ihatls full
of lnformation

milling" direction. Set tho bibto.make a cut

at full deptb, but adjust thel0idthofthecut
to only Yill" or so, see drawing.
'I'hi~way there's very little material for
the bit to grab, and the workpiece can
easily be controlled to produce a clean
edge. Then alter making th. "down milling" scoring pass .adjust the fence to cut
the rabbet to full width in the normal direetion (against the rotatlon of the bit).

on "collecting, correctly

dentifying, and naming wood specimens,

and the use of'wcod in creative c)'aft~nlan- ..
ship". \Vorld of Wood is mailed free to all "II:
members of the nvos.
To join the International Wood Collectors Society, send $13.50 for a one-year
membership to: Michael Hanley, nVes
Secretary-Treasurer, W.63, N.653 Wash,ington.Ave., Gedarbw'g, Wisconsin 53012.
I

fOUR QUARTERS

After almost every issue, we receive a

small stack of letters asking about the II.,
UP MIlliNG
!'\':,
~""'"
and % designations used to indicate the
SAMPLE LUMBER KITS
thickness
of hardwood lumber.
'OTAllOH ~
OFarr
In Woodsmitk No. 114.we rail a segment in
These designations are similar to those
Talking Shop about wood sample kits being used on softwood (constructlonj.lumbsrto
offered fot ~ale by the International \Vood indicate thickness. A 2x4 starts out a l'uU2"
OOWN MIlliNG
Coliectors Society (rIVeS). Since then, thick in its rough state. But after it's sur.\..'W
we've r~eived several letters from read- faced and. dried, the actual thickness is
0' fliT
l~H.
ers who, after several months, still haven't
received their lumber kits.
The same goes for hardwood lumber I called ~[jk. Hanley, the current
except the designations are different.
DOlO't "'illing always produces a Seeretary/Treasurer' of the Iwes. to find Hardwood lumber is designated by thickS1tWotMr cut, a,ut th.is it WIlY a scant'll out why there was such a long delay. It ness given in "quarters' (,%11' increments),
po in ttie opposite directUnt 1I"odllce~ turns out that most of the delay was caused So, 1(, (four-qullrter) stock is 1 thick, on
81(cll. a clea,,, eil.t.
by the high level of ,,,,spollse from our (five'quarter) is J "'-. ete.
So far, .go good. "But \\thell hard\vood
article (rour to fi,'e times as lnan,' orders. as
R. J. C)i1:~ they uS\lally receive ill an entire year). . Iumber is surfaced to remove the rol1gh
Sal' Francisco, Cali/l)r!lw
1b,nlake matters \\'or.se onl)r one person sa\ marks, things tend to get vel1' can
- Damon Vincent - cutsl assembles, and fusingas to what the final Lhickness ShOI~d
Editor'. Note: We like to USC'this down package. the sample kits. And like every- be. Guidelines have been published by Ihe
milling technique to produce .a smooth
one associated \\tith the lWCS, Danlon
N~tiollal Hardwood Lumber As_i.lion
scoring cut when cutting rabbets on the volu,ntccl'S his time after \\'ork an(1 on the (NJoILA) for tbe surfaced thickness of
edge of a workpiece. HO\\TcVcr, there is a \veekends.
halwood lumber. see Chart. In the ease of
drawback when making this type of cut on
.y.
stock, it's s\lda~d to a final thiekness
Accordihg to Damon, ~ho Oood of order"
or
to/I!!)".
rouler table.
\Vas more than he could keel) liP \vith in his

""

...

IOlAnoJ\

22

WOODSMlTH

-----.-

111:

However; the thickness specifications

listed by Ill. NHLA are guidelines mostly
intended for the furniture industry. LocaJ
lumber yard. or rewl outlets mayor may
not follow Illese guidelines.
Some retail outlets surface Y. stock to
.",.. according to Ille guidelines. Others
have settled on a standard or...,," because
they've found that this setting is more
likely to clean up the entire surface of the
boards, and yields more saleable lumber.
1'0 add to the confusion, some retail outlets surface hardwood Itunber down to'll"
becauso thllt's what everyone is used to on
softwood lumber,
ROUOH
TMICKNISS

$/,"
3/.."
1"
1'1."

1 '12"

2"

OU"'~f."

SUlFACIO
THICKNESS

'/."*

1/16"

OISJGHAnOH

3/.."*

9/iI."

"I.
Sf.

13/16"

0/.
II.

15/16"
13A"

1 V,."

toUGH lUMllt lISS ~

101$
lXl't:ISstD IN INCHU

In lVood3milll, all of the dimensions

given in the plans 001) based on the NElLA
standard ~hicknesses, We usuaUy give the
"quarter" designation followed by the
NHLA standard thickness - -y., ('0/". actual) - with the understanding that the
thickness of the lumber you're working
with may vary from the standard,
ONE.MINUTE GLUING

I ha1-'C a qllt8{io,! relaied to ihe article

"Miler with Open Spli"e in Wood.mith
No. 36. I" {hi.arliclt, you,said to glue the
miler. lOf/elh.r by holding Ihe pieces.
togetherlor one minute. I would like to
kltOl. Ihe .ptcific gil,. yo" are u';>lg llul!
aUo.... 11011 to do fh;'.
I'm. J,tifo",ilior Joith a gll4e that would

a.

aUow ,,~ 10 compl.,,, tne handling and

culting "ltJltlrame YOI.ill8trudedajler
,,>tly0". min.,I. ol.e!ti't{} lime.
Cilllck

Seipp

Cra"d Rapids, M;"..esota

The comment on clamping the frame with
hand pressure for only one minute has
raised more than a few eyebrows. But
there's no magic to the glue ... we use
plain old yellow (aliphatic resin) glue
(either Franklin's Titebond or Elmer's
Carpenters Glue).
The trick is that you're not trying to
make a permanent glue joint when you
hold the mitered pieces together for on.
minute. All you need to do is "glue-tack"
the mit .... together so they're aligned
when they're placed in the jig to cut the
groove for the spline.
One erthe advamages of using aliphatic
WOODSMITli

be in Ille wrong position in our art. Actually, there wasn't mistake. We showed
the fence behind the blade beeause we feel
this is the best position.
As we were preparing the article on
cutting roves, we tested the set up with
the fenee in fronl of the blade, beeause as
many letters suggested, this is the way it's
shown in most books.
But when it carne time to cut the cove
with the fence in this position, I had problems t.rying to feed the workpiece into the
saw blade, while at the same time keeping
it tight against the renee. This requires
applying pressure in two dilTerent directions: pushing the workpiece forward,
and pulling it back to hold it tight against
the fence, No matter how many times I
tried this method, it always rell very awkward to me.
The method I've used ror years is ,,;th
the fence positioned bthind tbe saw blade.
Although, in theory, it might seem like the
blade w ould have enough force to pull the
CUTTING COVIS ON A TABLESAW
workpiece away from the fence, in praeI'vojlut ruti~ Woodsmith No. 36 and tiee, it doesn't.
would like to co"nttlt Ott yo"r iechniqUA
In fact, it'. nol any different than making an ordinary rip cUI- except since Ille
lor c.dii'19 COIIU (m a lobl~
t fee! there', (I serioltS ,n'stake. in tne art, deptb of cut is only about V,, or so, even
wltich ,ho ... tI'./once al.gled on the back less hand pressure i8 needed to push the
>ide01lite blade, In elHJry other boo" rue piece through the blade.
And this, I feel, is the advantage to
seen, lite le"ce is 8110"'''in front 01 the
blade.
having the fence behind the blade: the
Tlte problem is tllt ,ulten lite 'liOYkpiece workpiece can be fed by applying pressure
i81mitioned i"j'rontollllej'81,cB, a. slto.tnt in a typical straight-forward direction i,.. your article, tJlc 1"OtOt;O)l 01 the saw just like a rip cut,
blade (6l11U,to Pill! II", ,ool'kpiLce aICay
This direction feel. very comfortable to
fronttltele"c e. TiJi.",eo". llull IIandpres- me. But that's only how I feel. 'll-y it both
sure ,., the ottlll thiJlU prevt1lting ike saw ways. If it feels better making the cut with
bladefrom IIIro.cinglite 1tYlrkpi"",to",'Brd the. fence in front of the blade, then that's
fh. opmulor.
the .... y to do it.
Other Ieuers we've received suggest
By ...loading lhe I.nu in lront 01 the
BOlO blade, lile roIalion 01the blade pllo8i1a using two fences, one on each side of the
thellJOri<pi<a agai.ut Ih.ltnc Thi. P""' w orkpiece to guide it as it'. fed into the
_18 itfrtnn ~ingthrown at 1M operator; blade. Here, the problem is that the fences
avoiding a polentially '''';01108 ,,"ident.
have to be perfcct.ly parallel to each other,
and exactly the same distance apart as the
Robert Hanson ,,1dth of the workpiece,
SI. Clolld, Mi!t1WlOto.
Considering how difficult it is to clamp
one fence in position, trying to clamp a
\Ve've received several letters from read- second fence can be more aggravation
ers pointing out that the fence appears to than it's worth.
resin glues Is that they're formulated to
have the "quick grab" necessary for this
kind of glue tacking.
Apply a light coal of glue to the mitered
surfaces, and rub the two pieces against,
each other once or twice to work out an,)'
excess glue, Al first the joint will slip
around on tho glue, bUI then it will grab.
When you feci it grab, make sure the
miters are aligned. Then hold the joint
together wtthhand pressure forGOseconds
or so, keeping even p1"CSSU1'C on the joint
for the entire period.
At Ihi. point, tho joint isn't strong
enough to be tossed II1'0undthe shop. but it
will hold long enough to make the cut for
the spline, Th~jig also provldes support to
the pieces so there's almost no pressure on
the joint all the cut i. made,
Then wben the spline is glued into this
groove, It will hold the mitered pieces
together, In elTeet, the spline makes the
joint, not the glue on the mitered surfaces.

"""t

,*-NCr I" '.ONf

l>' kAOI

FEHa 8EHIND IlADf

23

Sources
TV TRAYS/STAND
You can order the hardware for (hit TV
'Ii-a)'S from the followingsources:

CONSTANTINWS,2000 Eastchester Road,

Bronx, NY 10461; 800-223-8087 (Note:
$7.50 minimum order. Catalog: $1.00).
Row-Hinge (4 hinges needed per tray), 0/."
diameter, Order No. R01'8~, $2.75 per
package of 4.
1'l1 WOOOWO.RKEIlSSTORE. 21801 Industrial Boulevard, Roprs, MN 55374; (612)
428--1101(Note: $',.50 minimum cash oroer.
Oatalog $2.00). Wilsonart Decorative
Lamina/e, Order No. dependent on color
(see their special "Kitchen Oonsiderations' catalog), 30" x 96" (enough for four
trays, two panels per tra~). $86.00. T~folding (for Yo.' kerl), :v." wide, iz.n.
lengths, (four 12' -lengths needed for four
trays), Order by color; No. D2732 (Tan),
No. D27~ (Brown). NO. D2736 (Black),
No. D2788 (White), $2.90 per piece. 'I.,"
Slot Cldler, Order No. M89.2, $18.9s. r
plaleCa.sW:rs, Order No. 01143 (black) or
No. C1I~ (brown), $16.40 per set of 4.
Ptat Top Plugs, Oak. 'Yo', Order No.
BI062, $1.50 per 50 (or see information
below on plug cutters).
BATHROOM CABINET
You can order all of the hardware for the
bathroom cabinet from one source:
THE WOOOWORK.ERS STORE, (address
above). 8TM. Buu. Hillges (2 'Pair), lY,'
long, 114' wide, Order No. DI224, $1.80
pair. ROI,,,,dBeec"lfnob8 (2), 1"dia., Order
No. B2501, $.26 each. She/fStanda,'(f8 (4),
surface mounted. 24' long, Order No.
D9201, $.80 each. Shelf S"ppOTt~ (8),
Order No. D9150, $.10 each .. A.foglletic
Catch. Order No. D2101, SI.75 each.
3-WAY SHELF
You can order all of the hardware for the
shelves from one source:
THE WOODWORKERS' STORE, (address
above). Knock. Down Fittings (2), Order
No. D3963, $.45 pei packof2. Shaker Pegs
(4), Birch, 3%' long overall x %" dia.,
Order No. BI501, $.28 each. M"g RMk
Pegs(6), Birch, W.long overall ,,0/1' dia .
Order No. B1520, $.28 each. PI.at Top
Pl1lgs (15), Maple, 11,', Order No. BI061
$1.10 Per 50 (or see information below on
plug cutters).
PLUG

currees

The TV Trays and the 3-Way Shelves

require wooden plugs. These can be purchased, but we found it ""sy to use plug
cutters to make our own plugs from the
same wood used on the projects.

24

There are two styles or plug cutters

available that fit into any drill or drill

contact Col. (ReL) ,Valter 1'. Betley, 2687

Wellesley Drive, Columbus, OJ:! 4822l

press. The traditional style- produces a

)IIOLANO \\tOOI)\\o'ORKRS ASSOCIATION.

slightly beveled plug that needs to be resawn or broken free after they're drilled. (I

This organization has entered its second

.}Ieat with mont,hly meetings and a quart'erly newsletter. Get more information by
contacting Alan T. David, president, Mid
land Woodworkers Association, P.O. Box
1221, .Midland, M1 48640.

sometimes pop them out, with a serewdriver). They are available from a varie~y
of sources. One source is Constantine's
(address above), Order Nos. %' (95X120'1),
14- (95X1207 A), ON (95XI207B), $6.95
each.
A newer style automaticaUy ejects the
plug from stock 0/." or less. A set of 3 (%",
14' and %") is available from Constantine's, Order No. 48W31, $19.95.
CARBIDE-TIPPED ROUTER BITS
The best place to start looking for the
carbide-tipped router bits discussed on
pages)9-21'is your local tool dealer Tfyou
can't find them locally, }IOU may want to

contact oneof the nlajor mail'erderseurces

that carry carbide-tipped bits:
GARRETT WADE. 161 Avenue of the Americas, New YOI'k, NY 10013; 800-221-2942
(Catalog: $8.00).
MASON &. SULLIVAN CO., '5fl6 Higgins
Crowel Road, West Yarmouth, MA 02673;
(617) 778-1056 (Catalog: $2.00).
MLCS. P.O. Box 53, Rydal, PA 19046;
8000322445 Ext. 56.
TREND-LINES. INC.. 375A Beacham Street,
P.O. Box 6447A, Chelsea, MA 02150;
800343-3248.
W.S. JENKS &. SON, 738 Seventh Street,
N.E.,
Wa~hil1gton,
DC 20001;

800-638-6405.
41 Atlantie Avenue,
P.O. Box 4000, Woburn, MA 01888;
800-225,Hli3 (Catalog: $8.00).
WOODCRAFTSI1PPLY.

THE WOODWORKERS'

S1'ORE. (address

above).
MEXlCO.
5604 Alameda N.E., Albuquerque, NM
87113; 800,645-9292 (Catalog: $2.00).
ZAC PRODUers. INC.. 588 West 34th Street.
New York, NY 10001; 800522-6622.
WOODWORKER'S SUPPLY OF' NEW

DIAMOND HONES
The EIre-Lap Diamond Rones mentioned
In the router bit-article (p, 21) axe available
from Garrett Wade (address above). Fine
grit, Order No. 15\",08.01, $5.95. M'edium
grit, Order No. 15W08.02, $7_95. Coarse
grit, Order No. 15W08.03, $9.95.
WOODWORKING

CLUBS

Here are the latest additions to ow' list of

woodwor.king clubs.
WOOOWORKERS or CENTIIAL 01110.This
club has been organized to serve central
Ohio. [t meets about every six weeks and

has 60 members. For more Infermatien

Kru'lSAS CIT}' \VOOI)\VORKERS

CUILD.

David McLamb stopped by our offices to

let us know that Kansas City woodworkers
were get~ing together a new guild. If you
are interested you can contaet David
}I[(>Lamb, President,
P.O. Box 11284,
Kansas Oity, MO 64U9.
CINCINl'tATI WOOOWORIill<G CtUII. These

woodworkers have been in existence for a

little ov.r a year and average

6:5 member.

at each meeting, Fol' more information

contact Rick Gorman, 7320 Miami Ave.,

Cincinnati, OH 45243,
SIIASTA WOOO\"QRKE,RS

ASSOCLATJON.

This group offers meetings, field h-ips,

group purchasing, a newsletter, and an
annualjuried exhibit. Find out more about
them by contacting
Yosh Sugiyama,
Shasta Woodworkers Association, P.O.
Box 205, Shasta, CA 96087.
Tafl WOOD "OX WOOOWORKEltS GUII,O.
INC. Harry McVeety reports that this
group on the Gulf Coast is beginning its
third year with over 100 members. For
more information contact Harry MeVeet),
President, The Wood Box Woodworkers
Guild, Inc., 4?56 Three Notch Road,
Mobile, AL 36619.
B1ooktyn. NY. Walter Connolly has
been in contact with US a number of times
about starting o. finding a dub in the New
York City area. If you are interested, contact him at. 1500 73rd Street, Brooklyn,
NY 11228.
CLUB ORGANIZATIONAL HELP

In Wood.mil" 'No. 33 we asked for infol'-

rnation on how to start 8. woodworking

club. The Central Pennsylvania weedworkers said they found an "Orgauizational Kit" provided fI-ee of charge from
Shopsmith, Inc. to be helpful and saved a
lot of work. We too~ a look at this "no cost,
no obligation" offer and found it to be full
of USeful suggestions for starting a club
and improving clubs. Included is infor-

mation on how to get. started, enlist; members, structure, publicity, newsletters and

much- more.
For a copy of the kit, write or call, Vince
Pax, Manager of Woodworking Club
Development, Shopsmith, Inc., 6640 Poe
Avenue,
Dayton,
OH 45414-2.691;
800-543-9396.
WOODSMITH

Index of Contents No. 1..,36

Thill index covers aU of fh" articles (ineluding projects and techniques) contained
in the first 36 issues of Wood.mWt, The
numbers,following eae~ listing refer to the
issue and pages where you can find infermation Onthe listed subject, For example,
20:47 refers to information in 1V1X"~mit"
issue No. 20 on pagVs 4 t~rough 7,
Adhesive
Hide (Scotch) 19:23
Hpt melt 84:24
\Vate.proof3:7, 11; '}6:10; 27:8
Angle
Cutting odd 20:23
Drilling 4:10, 35:22
Angled box joint 35:15
Antique wall mirror 26:18-1~.24
Bachelor's chest 34:4-9

Band saw
Blade 10:3

Guttinl!. duplicates 23:3

bookcase 29":1(t..21,24
Bead cutting jis 16:3
Bedroom ["",iture 84:421
Bellside stand 18:47; 84:16
Belt buc!<le 10:6
Belt s~nd.I' 15:7: 10:10; 35:22
Barrisrel's

.Bench

Galxlen 3:8-9; 27:1213

1re;;tle 23:24
BeveV.ip 16:8; 18,:3; 25:89
Binder, wooden looseleaf '1:,1
Bits, mortising 26:20-21,2'1
Blanket chest 16:1215; 82:16-21,2-1; 86:23
.BUnd dov.Jail 12:7
Bookcase 7:67; 29:1621.24
Bookrack 7:12
Boring jig, horizonta! 12:J9
.BO\\!

saw

s.s

Bo\\'l. turned
Laminated 21:18-21
Stave construction 26:.211
Box
Bread 4:6-8
Display~:ll
End grain top 15:J3
Inlout 31;JOll
Jewelry 9;5; 24:2022
MU~ie 6:67; 2814-7,24
Recipe 10:l!
~outcd 13:12-13; 28:10.11
Shop storage 16:14-15
Slide-top (finger.jointed) 17:J4-15
Tissue 2:5; 19:24
Toy 29:49,24
Box jblnt 2:45; 17:1213'; 35:1220
Drawers 17:19
Jig 2:4
Rab))'eted ~7:19
Branding irons 10:3
Bread board 20:24
Bread box, roUtop 4:68
\VOODSMITli

Buckle, belt 10:6

Buffet table', gate-leg 20:14-1.7

BUllet catch 19:12,17

Bullet's tray table 14:10.ll,)6: 16,3
Gabine,t
Bal,ister'$ bookcase 29:J62J,24
Bed-side stand 18:4~7
Caddy, two-drawer 31:12-15
Canedpanel cabinet and hutch 22:)8-22
Qh~ir'Side 24:~417
Golonial dry sink 18:1215
Colonial wall hutch 18:1619
Contempora r)' hutch 18:47
Curio 21:12-15; 26:12-17,24
European cabinet and hutch 22:1822
Frame alld panel 8:8-11
Icebox 36:4-10
Modular Slorag~ system 2'l:1215
Modular wall unit 33:817
Night stand 34:1619
Raised-panel door 8:7
Shop storage 25:~7
Spool 26:4-6
Tambour .1.. '00 J7:6'9
Tambour TV 25:14.19
Thmbour'I'.1I 17,1011
Cabin~t scrape,' 14:12-13; 15:7
Camp stool 3:7
Candle 'Stand table 11:61
0im<1d.panel cabinet and hutch 22:f&22
Canister, turn'ed 14:14.15.; 25:812; 27:3;
30;23
Car, toy race 5:12
Carbide-tip

ROQte., bit 21:8-9; 23:28

Table saw blades 27:16-2~,24; 28:19,28
Card holder 35:18-20,2'1
Carpenter's triangle 1:6; 15:6
carpeL tape 85:23
Cart, microwave/serving 23:8-11
Carving 82:.6.24
Pattern for card holder 35:20
Pattern fo)"quilt rack 32:24
Reference books 32:24

'fools 82:24
Chair
Contemporary 2:6~
Deck 3:67
Oak Ip:8Jl
Patio i!7.:8-11
Seat 25:)!3
Chair-side cabinet 24<1417
Chest

.Bache1m's :)4:4"9
Blanket 16:J2-15; 32:1621,24; 36:28
Six-drawer (box joint drawers) 17:J6-1~
Sweater 9:89
Toy 29:4.9,24
Cheval mirror 30:4-8,24
Childsafe finish 26:23
Chisel 19:5; 20:811: 25:3
Chisel case 24:20.22
Christmas ornaments 6:10J2

Circle cutter, a(ijustable 33:1819

Circles, routing' 20:13; 21:1011

OireuJar
~Iil'rQr (tame 1~: 1011
Table top'19:3; 30:12'15
\Val! clock 3O:JOll
Claml)iilg
!'Ilock, dovetail 32'23
Boards 3J :3; 3.5:3
Corn ..... 94:3 _
Long pieces 94:24; 36:3
Stops 9:12
Table top 15:7, 1,(:3
Clamps
Hand screws J 5:7;, 28:3
Hold-down 1;6
Pip" 15:3,7; 28:3; 32:15; 36:3
Wedge,~:3
Clock
Desk 10:4; 33:J8.19,211
Mantel-24:8-l1: 30:23
Octagonal wall 12:89
Regulator 36:1215,24
Round IVal! 30:10}l
Schoolhouse 21:47: 80:23
Clubs, lI'oodlVorl<ing (i$.~ues 2732,35,36:
page 24)
Coffee grinder 3.;:16'1-7,2-1
Coffee lable 19:1417.2.:2022

Co}n sorter
Columns 16:9
'li'ay 10:6
Colonial
Dry sink 18:12J5
Wall hutch 18;~6-19
Compass 7:3; 26:3
Compound miters 36:210
Cookbook/recipe shelf 6:45
Cooling rack 1:2
Corner
Joint, plywood 22:3; 33:2022
Template 29:3
Cove cutting 12:16; 20:23: 36:11
Cwio cabinet 21:12-15; 26:~17,24
Cut ..off jig, radial arm saw 22:3
Cutting board 1:1; 32:1012,24; 20:24
Dado.blade,. acjjustable 17:20;23:23; 3~:22
Danish oil finishes 30:1215
Deck
Chair 3:67
Squares 3:10
penti! 26:12.19,22; 29:3; 3~:3: 36:3
Denis 15:3

Desk

.l\djustable 3).:49

Lap~:6
Shaker-style 'VI'iting J2:4"'1
Diamond sharpening stones 24:7
Dining table
()ireular with leaf 30:1621.24
Contemporary oak J5:4-5
Drop-leaf l1:8-JO
Picnic 27,:47

Dining Table, ClilLl.

'!restle 1:3-5; 23:12--15
Display CASe26:4-6,24: 26:12-17
Display case, W8U 9:11
Door
Caned-panel 22: 18-22
G",-<$ 13:8-9: 22:18-22; 24:9; 25:19;
26:1<>-17;29:19-20: 36:14. 16-19
Hinges 13:8-9: 25:19
Munlios 13:8-9
Raised-paneI2:1().11; 18:4-19: 2-1:14-17
Techniques 13:8-9: 29:20-21
Dovetail
Blind 12:7
Clamping block 32:23
Drawers 19:16-18
Fixtures 22:6-10: 23:3; 27:3: 32:22
Groove 11:6-7
Half-blind 22:4-9: 34:4-9
Hand-cut lap 22:4-5; 23:3
Hand-cut through 19:6-1 I
Key 31:4-9
Leigh dovetail jig 32:22. 24
Macrune-CUI lap 22:6-9
Machine-en; through 32:22
Rabbeted 21:3
Routed 22:6-9: 32:22,24
Saws 19;5
Sliding 31:4-11
Through 12:7; 19:6-11
Tongue and groove 9:7: 20:20.22.24;
31:4-9,20-22
Dowels
C~an\fe\ing 10:3
(lUlling 16:3
Drilling 33:3; 34:3
Grooved 11>:3
Making 19:3
Sanding 9: 12
Use 24:23; 29:16-21; 30:2
Drawer

Construction
17: 19; 18:20-22: 19: 18;
22:6-9: 31:2()'22; 32:18-21; 34:13-15
Plywood 22:14-15
Routed front 21:3
Drill bits 32:23
Drill guide, Porlaiigll 12:3.13
Drill press
Adjustment wrench 32:3
Collet chuck 12;3: 26:23
Guide 1:6
Hole boring jig 22:3
Mortises 18:23
Mortising bits 26;20-21
Proulllol< table elevator 16:20
Router chuck 12:3
Table support 19:3
Drilling
Angle 4:10, 35:22
Circles 33:18-19
Dowels 33:8: 34:3
Sltop$rnit/JMark V 29:3
Drop-lear
Hinge 1I:10: 14:8
Joint 11:10; 14:78
Pembroke table 14:4-8
Table 11:8-10
Drum sander 35:22

Edge gluing 32:13-15; 35:23

ElllpIKl5:8; 14:3; 16:3; 19:3; 24:3
End boards 9:7; 20:24 23:13;
End gmin
Box 15:13
Gluing 24:23
Sealing 9:3
EngHoh wail lantern 36:16-19,2-1
Feather boards 23:23
File cabinet 7:8-9: 29:1()'15
File caddy, two drawer 31:12-15
Filler
Nail hole 15:3
Sawdust glue 17:3
Pinger joint 17:14-15; 35:18-20
Finishes
Non-toxic 19:23; 25:28: 28:24: 32:12.24;
36:28
0i130:12-15.24; 31:23,24; 32:7-9,24; 36:23
Outdoor 27:14-15
'fuming 25:23
~lni.hing techniques 14:9; 28:3; 32:7-9
Forest Products Laboratory 36:24

Frame
Cireular 12:1().11; 3O:1().U
Gluing 26:11; 30:9
~Iitered 33:18-19
Molded edge 24:8-17,2().22; 29:2021;
80:4-8
Mortise and tenon 26:7-11
OClagonal 12:8-9; 21;4-7
Oval 6:!1
Rabbet rouling 26:22
Web construction
8:8-11; \4:JO-11;
22:18-22; 24:14-17; 26:14-17; 28:1~17;
29:,1-21;81:4-9; 34:4-9,16-19
Ii"ralnc and panel eonstruction 8:6 .. 8-11.;
16:12-15; 18:,1-19; 24:14-17,2022:
20:,122;34:10-12: 36:4-10
Gall.,y clock 3O:1()'1I
Gate-leg buffet table 20:14-17
Glass
Cutting 18:16: 17:20
Door 13:8-9; 22:18.22; 24:9,: 25:19:
26:1<>-17;29:19-20
MOIInting 11:3
S.'ll{ling 13:3
Glue, hot-melt 34:24
Gluing 7:3: 9:3; 10:3,9; 15:7; 17:4-5; 18:3;
19:23: 20:23: 21:9; 23:22; 24:23; 26:11:
27:23; 28:9,24; 31:3; 32;10, 13-15,23
Ed~ 32:13-15
End grain 24:23
Frame 26:11; 30:9
Inl"", 28:9
~liters 21:9; 30:9
Stains 33:23
Tamboura 17;4-5
Goblela. turned 23:4-7; 24:23
Grinder tool rest 20:7; 24:3
Grinding wheels 2O:4~.12; 23:23
Half-blind dovetail 22:4-9; 34:4-9
HalC-lap 1:4,7,8; 2:11: 15:8-11; 16:6-7;
22:18-22; 27:.1-13,22; 29:23
Han mirror 21:16
Hand-cut dovetails 22:4-5; 23:3
Hand screws 15:7; 23:8
Headboard 34:10-12

Hexagon 12:1().U,14; 16:8-9; 18:3

llin~s

Butler's tray table 14:16; 16:3; 20:23

Drop-leaf 11:10; 14:8
Glass door 25:19
Knife 13:8-9
Mortises 32:22
\Vooden (issue #9)
Horizontal boring jig 12:13
Hot-melt glue sheets 34:24
Butch
Contemporary 13:4-7
Caned-panel cabinet 22:18-22
Icebox 36:4-10
Icebox hardware 36:24
Inlay 20:17: 26:6,22; 28:8-16_24
In/out box 31:1()'1I
Jack plane 15:7; 23:16-17,20-21
Japane.e water stones 24:4~: 26:23: 31:23
Jewelry box 9:~: 24:20-22
Jig
Angle drilling 4:10; 35:22
Bead cutting 16:3
Box joint 2:4: 17:12-13; 35:12-20
Cove cutting 12:16; 36:11
Cutting plastic laminate 33:3
Cut-off 1~:1&-16;28:3
Dentil molding 26:22; 29:3
Depth gauge 31:3
Dowel making 19:3
Drilling 22:3; 25:3; 33:3
Feathm' board. 33:23
Pinger joint 17:14-16; 35:18-20
Horizontal boring 12:13
Miter 12:15; 24:12-13; 36:22
Mortise cutting 16:18; 18:28: 28:9
Octagonal Irame cutting 21:17
Open-spline miter 36:22
Panel cutting 8:12; 18:23: 22:11; 25:18
Pin-routing 28:2()'22
Plastic laminate 23:3
Radial-arm router 20:3
Radial-arm saw cutoff 22:3
Raised panel 18:1().1l; 20:3
Resawing 6:9; 36:21
Ripping 26: 13
Router-cut mortise 26:3
Routin!!" round blanka 25:3
Tambour gluing 17:4-S: 25:18
Taper 1:6: 5:4; 11:3
Tenon 16:18; 24:18-19; 28:3
Joinery
Box 2:4-S: 17:12-13.19; 35:12--20
Box, rabbeted 17:19
Corner. plywood 22:3: 33:20-22
Dovetail 19:6-11: 22:4-9: 23:3: 32:23
Dovetail key 31:4-11
Dovetail tongue and groove 9:7; 20:22;
31:20-22
Drop-leaf 11:10: 14:7-8
Finger 17:14-J5: 35:18-20
Frame and panel 8:6,8-11; 18:10-11;
24:14-17; 29:22
Half-blind dovetail 22;4-9; 34:4-9
Half-lap 27:22; 29;23
Half-lap. mitered 2:11
Hand-cut dovetail 19:4-Jl: 22:4-5
Haunched mortise and tenon 18:8-9
WOODSMITli

Jo~l')', coni.
Locked miter 9:10
Machine-rut dovetail 22:6-9
~litcr and spline 7:11; 21:8-9: 30:9,22:

86:22
Mitered half-lap 2:11
Miter<ld mortise and tenon 16:16,17
Molded morttse ana tenon 24:12-13,211
Mortise and tenon 8:3-5: 13:10.11: 16:12:
16:1617: 18:811,24;
22:1822;
24:1213,18-19; 25:22; 26:711
Open mortise and tenon 24:18-22
Open-spline miter 36:22
Parallel 5 pline 9:9
Rabbet and groove (also called rabbeU
dado) 6:8; 10:9; 18:20-21
Routed dovetail 22:6-9
Rule 11:10: 14:7-8
Sliding dovetail tougue and groove
20:20-21; 81:411
Stave construction 26:8-9: 27:3; 30:23
Stopped dado 36: 12
Stub tenon and groove 29:22; 31:49
Through dovetail 19:6-) I
'l\)ngue and groove 29:22; 33:20-22
'!\vin tenon 12:12
Wedged mortise and tenon 1&:8-12
Knire holder 10:7
Lamp
Dovetail 22:24
Hanging 2:9
Lantern, English wall 36:16-19,24
Lazy Susan 21:1c}'11
Logs
'llIpel"ed 11:11; 14:5
'11I",ed 12:5
Leigh dovetail router jig 32:22,24
Letter opener 10:7
Light bracket, swivel 9:4
Linseed ollfonish 30:12-15
lIschine-rut dovetail 22:6-9; 32:22
Mantel clock 24:8-11; 30:23
Marking gauge 19:)2-13; 21:3
Marquetry, inlay 20:17: 26:6,22; 28:8-15,24
Memo board 18:24
Microwave/serving cart 23:8)1
Mil''<ll'
Antiquo wall 26:18-19,211
Cheval 30:4-8,2<1
Cir<:ular (rame 12:1c}'1l
Hall 21:16
Vanity 10:5; 24:24
Wall 34:20-21
Miter
Compound 36:21
Cutting 12:14: 21:8-9; 25:28; 36:9
Gauge, table saw 29:23
Gluing 21:9; 30:9
Jig 12:16; 24:1213
Locked 9:10
Mathemalics 12:1415
Miter and spline joinery 7:11; 21:89: 80:9;
36:22
Mitered half-lap 2:11
Mitcred mortise and tenon 16:16-17
Modular storage system 22:12-15
~Iodular wall unit 33:8-17,2<1
Molded mortise and tenon 2<1:12-13
\VOODSMITH

~loldings 26:22: 36:U

Mortise
Cutting jig 16:18: 18:23; 26:9
Drill press 18:23
Router-cut, jig 26:a
Slot 8:4; 10:3: 13:10-11: 26:89
Mitered 16:16-18
Through 15:12
'!\vin 12:12
Mortise bits 26:2c}'21
Mortise and tenon
Frame and panel 18:10-11; 26:711
Haunched 8:3-5; 13:1c}'11; 18:8-9
Molded edge 24:12-13
Mitered 16:16-18
Open 24:18-19
'l\vin tenon 12:12
Wedged 15:12
Muntins 18:8-9
Music box 6:6-7; 28:4.7,211
Nailing fixture 15:3
Nestled tables 28:1216
Night stand 34:16-19
Note board 18:24
Oetagon 12:8-9: 16:10: 21:,17
Frame jig 21:17
Oil finishes 30:12-15: 32:79; 36:28
Open-spline miter 36:22
Ornaments, Christmas 6:1c}'12
Outdoor
Furniture 3:812; 27:413
Finishes 27:1415
Palm sanders 14:12; 36:7
Panel cutting 8:12; 18:23; 22:11; 25:13
Parallel 'spline 9:9
Patio chair 27:8-11
Pembroke table 14:48
Pencil and card holder 2:12
Picnic table 27:4-7
Picture frame router bit 9:3; 10:3
Picture and glass mounting 11:3
Pin routing 28:1C}.11,16-18,20-22
Pipe clamps 15:3,7; 28:3; 36:3
Plane
A<\iustments 23:16.22; 25:23
Bench 15:7; 23: I622
;Flattening 23:22: U:S; 29:23
Jack 15:7; 23:1617
Sharpening 23:18-19
Planer, Wagne,.We-T 10:10; 15:7
Planing, table top 23:21
Planter
Cedar pillars 3:4
Hanging 3:12

Redwood tub 3:3

Taperedsides 16:Ic}'U
Plunge routers 28:23
Plywood
Buying tips 30:23
Corner jOin! 9:10; 22:3
Cutting 34:2/;1
Drawer construction 22: 14.15
Splintering 22:11
Popcorn bowl, turned U:24
Portaligrl

Drill guide 12:3,13

Sbaper bit 12: IC}.11
PlT#lnlIU drill press table elevator 16:20

Quarterround stops 36:20

Quilt rack 32:4.0
Rabbet and groove joint (also called
rabbeUdado) 6:8: 10:9; 18:2021
Rabbeted
Dovetails 21:8
Drawer mnt 18:2C}.21:22:6-9
Frame, routed 26:22; 30:9

nadial arm saw

Cutoff jig 22:3
Router Jig 20:3
Stand 32:3
Table ilkoert 20:3
Teehnique. 16:16; 16:16-18; 18:11,23;
31:3
Raised-panel 2:10; 8:7: 18:1011,23: 20:3;
23:23
Rasp 26:28
Recipe box 10:8
Regulator clock 36: 1215
Rcsawing 6:9; 28:47; 85:31
Riplbevel 16:8
Ripping jig 25:13
Roll-tep bread box 4:6-8
Rosan inserts 22: II; 24:3: 27:24; 28:24: 30:3
Routed
Box sides 13:12-13: 28:1c}'11
Dovew18 22:6-9; 32:22
Snack trny 28:16-18
Router
Auxiliary base 35:3
Bit. gluing dovetail 31:24
Bit, mOI~i8ing 26:2021
Bit, picture (ram. 9:3; 10:3; 36:24
Bit, raised panel 23:23
Buyer's guide 31:16-19
Ca.se4:3
Chuck with drill press 12:3
Debris 24:23; 34:3
Direction 36:20-21
Do,'etail fixt.ures 22:6-9; 23:3; 32:22,24
Guide, multi-purpose 17:20
Jig, centered grooves 30:22
Jig, dentil molding 29:3
Jig, lap dovetail 22:69
Jig, mortlse euttinl126:S
Jig, radlnl arm Saw 20:3
Jig, round blanks 25:S
Pin 28:2022
Plunge 28:23
Teehniques 20:13; 21:8-11: 25:13; 26:22:
28:10.11,16-18,20-22; 30:4-11; 36:21
'Irammel attachment 21:10: 30:9
Router table
Construction 20:18-19; 22:16-17; 31:3
Inserts 30:3
Pin-routing attachment 28:2C}.22
Sabre 8IIw setup 30:3
Stand 22:16-17
Table 8IIWcx!,enslon 24:8
Vacuum attachment 86:3
Rubber cement 35:22
Rule joint U:10; 14:7-8
Rule, Sian'dt 84:28
Safety 15:3; 31:23; 34:3,23: 36:23
We-TPlaner, \Vag"'" 10:10; 15:7

Sander
Bell 15:7: 33:3; 35:22

Spline, eo,,/.
Drum 35:22
Use 23:22: 32:14-15
Palm 33:7; 34:3,22
Spool di$play case 26:4-6
Rockwtll SfMd, 810c 1,1:12: 33:7
Spoon display ease 9:11
Sander stand, belt 10:10
Spray Mount 36:2"2-28
Sanding
Starrett rules 3.1:28
Circles 11:12
Stave eonstruction 26:8-9,24; 27:3; ;10:23
Disk 13:3; 15:3: 31:3
Stereo cabinet, tambour 17:6-9
Dowels 9:12
Sticker stains 34:2'2
Drum 13:3; 15:3; 26::1: 32:3
Stones
Glass 13:3
Diamond 24:7
Table top 15:7
Japanese water 24:~; 26:23; 31:23
Sandpaper 33:~; 34:3
Sharpening 20:4-7,12-13; 21:28
Saw. dovetail 19:5
Stool
Saw blade
Camp 3:7
Child's 35:12-13
Band 10".3
Shop .1:11
Dado blade 34:22
Table, carbide-tipped 27:16-21.24:
Stopped molding <:UUl 36:20-21
28:19,23
StOPped rabbets 36:21
Cleaning 17:3: 21:23
Storage
Sehoolhou.se clock 21:4-7: 30:28
~Iodular system 22:12-15
Seonee, candle 6:5
Modular "'811 unit 33:8-17
Scrap wood projects 3:12; 10:4-8: 14:11-15
Shop 15:14-15
Scraper, cabinet 14:1213; 16:7
Table saw 13:11-15
Screws
Sweater chest 9:8-9
Brass 18:3
Table
Sheet rock 18:3: 19:23
But1er'~ tray 14:10-11,16
Serving
Cunelle stand 11:6-7
Cart 28:8-11
Coffee 1:7; 19:14-17: 26:20-22
'!tay 19:19
Contempo''ary oak 16:4-.
Shaker-style
Dining 11:8; 15:4; 20:\4; 28:12; 30:16
Peg rack 2:8
Drop-leaf 11:8-10; 14:4-8
Step stand 19:2022
Gateleg buffet 20:14.. 17
Thble U:4-9
Kitchell 15:4{)
Writing desk 12:4-7
Lellf 30:18-19
Shaper
Nestled 28:12-1.
Bit 12:3,10-)1
Picnic 27:4-7
Guides 19:23
Pembroke 14:4-8
Sharpening
Shaker-style side 11:4-5
Aids 20:7; 81:3; 33:3
Trestle 1:3-5; 23: 12-15
Carbide-tipped table .3W blades 28: 19
TV tray 16:4-7
ChiJsels 20:8-11: 26:23
Table saw
Bevels 23:3
Diamond stones 24:7
Japanese water stones 2-1:>1-6;26:28:
Blades, carbide-lipped 27:16-21,24:
31:23
28:19,23
Compound miters 36:21
Plane irons 28:18-19
Scraper blade 14:13
Cove cutting jig 36:11
Cutting plastic laminate 33:3
Stone. 20:4-7.12-13; 21:2:1
Dado blade, adiustable 17:20
Table saw blade. 28:19
Shelf
Insert 35:23
Aligning brackets 11:3
Miter gauge 25:3
Wall 20-.20-21
Setup 20-.3
Shooting board 13:3
Tambour
Shop slorage
Roll-top bread box 4:6-8
Box 15:14-15
Stereo cabinet 17:6-9
Cabi~t 26:4-7
Teehniques 4:6-8: 17:4-11; 20:3: 26:14-19
Cart 13:14-15
TV cabinet 25:14-19
Side table 11:4-5
Wall cabine, 17:10-11
Sliding dovetail tongue and groove
Taper
20:20-21; 31:4-11
B."el 16:10-11
Snaek tray, routed 28:16-18
Cut.ting 32:10-12
Spalted wood 28:23
Jig 1:6; 5:4; 11:3
Spice box 6:3
Thper<)d legs 11:11; 14:4-8: 28:12-13
Spindle turning' 26:3
Tenon
Spline
Cutting 18:10-11; 26:10-11
Cutting 10:3: 15:4-5; 21:8-9; 30:9
Haunehed 18:8-9
Parallel 9:9
Jig 24:18-19
Routed groove 21:8-9
Mitered shoulder 16:16-17

Sander,

COlli.

Tenon, cont.
Repairing round 28:3
Staggeredshoulder 13:10-11
Stub 29:22; 31:4-9; 33:20
Thin 12:12
Thre-aded inserts 22:11; 24:3;27:24; 28:21;
30:3
Tie rack 1:2
TiSSlle box 2:5; 19:24
'!bngue and groove joint 9:7: 29:22
31:12-15.20-22; 33:20-22
Tho1rest, grinder 20:7: 24;3
Tool storage 4:9.12
'!by
Biplane 35:8-11,24
Chest 29:4-9,24
Race car 5:12
'Ihin 5:10-11
'lhItk 35:4-7,24

fuy
Routed snack 28:16-18
Serving 19:19
Snack 28:16-18
'!testle
Bench 23:24
Leg assembly (desk) 31:4-9
Table 1:8-5; 28: 12-15
'Ih~eI21:24; 22:28
'lUng oil finish 30:12-15: 32:7-9,24; 36:28
'l\u-ning
Bowl 21:18-21; 25:24
Canister 14:14-16; 26:812; 27:3; 30:28
Fruit bowl 21:18-21
Goblets 23:4-7; 24:23
Gouges 21:22; 24:28
Legs 12:S
Popcorn bowl 26:24
Seraper 21:22; 22:2:1
Spindle 26:3
'!boIs 21:18-22; 22:28; 24:23
TV tray table. 16:4-7: 17:20
Vanity mirror 2>1:24
Veneer 14:10-11; 33:18-19
Veneer tape 17:8; 22:11-14;
Vtse
Dogs 28:3
Holding Jig 29:3
Wag>..,. Safe-T-Planer 10:10: 15:7
WalIlanlem. English 36:16-19,24
'''all mirror 21:16; 26:1~19,24; 34:20-21
Wall shelf 20:20-21
Wall unit 33:8-17,24
\vaste basket 7:5
Water stones, Japanese 24:~; 26:23; 31:23
Web frame construction 8:8-11: 22:18:
29:4-21: 31:4-9
Wedge clamps ;;:3
Wood
Dimensions 22:28
Information 36:24
Movement 9:7; 31:23
Outdoor use 3:11; 27:14-15
Sample kits 34:23
Spalted 28:23
Storage 19:23: 30:3
Wooden hinges 9:5-11
Woodworking clubs (issues 27-33,35,86:
page 24)
WOOOSMIT1'1